The Enthusiasts Guide to Denim
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CONTENTS COVER... 01...
BLUES BASH
02... 03... ORIENTAL APPEAL 1 04... ORIENTAL APPEAL 2 05... LEVI STRAUSS 1 06... LEVI STRAUSS 2 07... BIKER DENIM 1 08... BIKER DENIM 2 Back Cover... 02
ORIENTAL APPEAL A Japanese twist on an American Classic by vanessa lee
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ccording to statistics gathered by Arvind wouldn’t rip, they created what we now Lifestyle Fabric, denim will be worth $56.2 recognize as the classic denim jeans. billion by the end of 2014, an impressive feat for a fabric that had its humble beginnings as a labourer’s fabric. Denim, and in particular denim By the 1930s denim jeans had swept into Hollywood western movies, filtering down jeans, has always been a trend that has never ceased to go out of style despite similar doing into subcultures by the time World War 2 so, with The 2013 WeConnectFashion USA Jeans was over and the 1950’s rebels were in. Levi’s Market Research report showing that over 74% grew from strength to strength despite rising of Americans said they “love or enjoy” wearing competition, and the appeal of denim jeans denim, partially explaining why over 450 million didn’t stop there. In the 1960s and 70s, they were adopted by hippies and young hipsters, pairs of jeans are bought in America alone. and then when world trade loosened their But why? Well, according to Charles A. Reich guidelines denim went into mass its accessible with ‘no distinctions of wealth or manufacturing, leading to both fast fashion status, no elitism’ attached making it an icon of duplicates from brands across price points such as H&M. Denim jeans were officially the democratization with universal appeal across norm. class, gender and subcultures. Essentially by wearing denim you become a member of an unspoken social group, and let’s face, who doesn’t want to feel part of something greater than themselves?
But whilst they exploded on a mass level in the western world, the Japanese focused their interest in the artisan method of producing them, quietly accumulated all the authentic shuttle looms from the 1970s that Denim, denim jeans in particular, originates from a man called Leob Strauss, later known as were formerly owned by denim manufacturers in America. In doing so, they Levi who founded Levi’s Jeans Company. Back were able to resurrect the art of genuine in the midst of the 18th Century Californian gold rush Strauss moved from New York to San denim and establish a fast-expanding niche Francisco to extend his family’s wholesale goods for premium denim, making them one of the business and was approached by a customer of most wealthiest and significant denim manufacturers to date. Whilst people can his, a tailor called Jacob Davis, who proposed they collaborate. They began producing denim spend upwards of £500 on a pair of designer jeans in Europe, Japanese denim is regarded jeans for local miners who found their own as the world’s superior denim producers, and clothing were problematically tearing; and by for collectors that makes it priceless. adding metal fasteners to ensure pockets
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Sean Comer, a London-based Japanese denim launched its Kaihara-produced line in 2009. fanatic, believes it’s ‘the quality control and However WGSN predicts that 2014 will see Japanese-inspired denim textures make value in the technique’ that makes them waves within the fashion industry, with weaved worth collecting. indigo-ecru ikat reference Kasuri textiles giving So what makes Japanese denim so valuable denim an oriental update. Meanwhile, ffordable all-American denim brand Lee has from a wider perspective? Well 90% of it is already commissioned Bape founder NIGO to still manufactured out of just three companies, Kaihara, Kurabo and Nisshinbo. design a Japanese selvedge based collection that will incorporate designs from the 1920s and Weaved much thicker than its American counterpart, it’s durability includes selvedge 1930s authentic workmen’s overalls including both the 131 and 101-buckled jeans so strong it cannot fray, is why they’re and Combatant Gentlemen, backed by footwear credited for innovative and technological brand Zappos.com, will release a lower-priced breakthroughs such as the ‘one washed Japanese denim range later this month. jeans’. Kaihara, in particular, has been producing denim since 1971 and according to But the Japanese influence doesn’t stop there, Yuji Honzawa, product development manager other areas include accessories with Unwashed at UNIQLO speaking to The Telegraph, ‘their Denim founder Will Berman, most recently meticulous consideration for detail is another designing a hat purely made out of Japanese key reason why Japanese manufacturers are Kaihara selvedge denim to celebrate the growth of his brand. high value’ for example KaihaWhilst Men’s ra use ‘only Journal reveals Pima cotton’. Brooklyn based brand The Hill-Side are Additionally, redesigning the figures from American classic The World sneakers Chuck Trade Taylors made from Organization Japanese Kyushuand made denim. With International WGSN claiming this Denim Trading generation has the book prove that lowest shopping the rise of conversion rate ever, consumers want the best denim exports from Japan has been on a consistent rise, starting in 1977 when it was value product available which goes far to explain why there is a sudden demand for affordable at 30 million square yards to a record 70.6 million in 1983, indicating the high yield value Japanese quality. With Emil Corsillo, Founder of the Japanese denim industry imports and of The Hill-Side adding that “Japanese mills are some of the only places in the world where you export market despite its relatively new can get really specific things made, like natural status as a valuable market. indigo-dyed hemp or cotton denim” it is not too But whilst Japanese denim has mainly been farfetched to predict that this won’t just be a profitable as exclusive denim producers, few passing trend. brands have introduced Japanese denim to the majority aside from UNIQLO which
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LEVI STRAUSS: THE PEOPLE’S DENIM BY HELEN BOAL
German born Levi Strauss founded his brand during the American Gold Rush. Levi’s say
their original concept was a basic case of ‘Give the people what they want’. They provided the working classes with necessities, facilitating an honest income. But today, Levi’s is still going strong. Despite emigrating from Bavaria to America as a young man, Strauss seemed to stay true to typical Germanic stereotypes of practicality and a meticulous attention to detail. Levi’s also drew heavily on American heritage and here lies their success story. Much like the German Volkswagen, and in line with the ‘American dream’, Levi’s products were designed for the people. Levi Strauss & Co was successful enough to open their first high street store on Battery Street in San Francisco in 1853. From small town all American merchant, Levi’s has grown in popularity and success to become renowned globally. Due to their target consumer, the key purpose of Levi’s originals was functionality. Levi’s has an archive of consumer testimonials to support the durability of their products. In 1969, Robert Helmey boasted to Levi’s that he had been jailed in solitary confinement for 109 days wearing his Levi’s slacks. Despite crawling on his knees until there was no skin on them, and causing damage to his body for months afterwards, his Levi’s had lasted “good as new”. Robert Helmey also bragged that he’d hi-jacked a plane but got away with it, after 109 days of solitary. “Levi’s, the name you can trust” even with your felony confessions. Proven customer satisfaction has also lead to advertising campaigns such as this 1974 advert depicting a man hanging off a steel scaffolding rod by the seams of his Levi’s denim shirt. Keith Kempainen reported, “Thank goodness for my Levi’s shirt!” in a moving hand written letter to Levi’s expressing gratitude for his life on behalf of both himself and the family he supports. Today it seems customers are just as satisfied. 60-year-old financier John Scott shops for Levi’s in London “You can’t beat Levi’s for quality.” According to textile specialist, Dr Kate Goldsworthy, Levi’s sterling reputation is due to their siege to be innovative “Levi’s is one of those brands that just keeps evolving. Their denims have
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always been produced authentically to an extremely high standard, but they’ve also grown with the rest of the world and reinvented themselves again and again.” Levi’s four key values are “Empathy. Originality. Integrity. Courage.” The company has shown resilience and a conscientious nature from the start. When the 1906 San Francisco earthquake destroyed the whole city, including Levi’s head office, the company kept every employee on payroll. They have a history of being savvy when it comes to political acknowledgement too. During WWII, their Arcuate stitching was considered decorative and a waste of thread so Levi’s just painted it on instead, which kept everybody happy. Levi’s have made their products accessible and acceptable to everyone. Even our new eco friendly governments “Sometimes innovation isn’t creating something new but rethinking a traditional process to make it as effective, if not better” Morven Mackinnon, Levi Strauss & Co, talking about Levi’s newest production method using 96% less water. “We obsess over everything but it’s worth it.” The 60s saw the first big shift in brand development for Levi’s. Elton John nicknamed this period, the age of the ‘blue jean baby’. Levi’s flipped their image from working class uniform to political fashion statement. Or did the world flip the Levi’s image for them? Were they just riding a political wave? Either way, it was the counterculture revolution that everyone wanted to be a part of and Levi’s bridged the gap between politics and fashion. Levi’s President and CEO, Chip Bergh says the secret of their success is staying true to the brand “We’re building on our heritage to move the company forward, to be as innovative and relevant to today’s consumers — and tomorrow’s — as we were when we invented the blue jean 140 years ago.” John Scott has actually been buying Levi’s since the 60s “Since I was a teenager, and my kids wear them too.” Interestingly, the fact that you’re all wearing the same jeans as your Dad, doesn’t seem to damage the street cred. Are our parents holding onto their youth by swanning around in your favourite jeans? Or are we resigning ourselves to the fact that our parents being alive during Woodstock makes them pretty cool? Since the 60s, Levi’s have come in and out of fashion. Much like the low tide waves drawing away from the beachy shores of Levi’s home in San Francisco, or your friends and acquaintances who’ve left Facebook recently: As Levi’s slip off fashion’s radar, everybody knows that they’ll be back soon.
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Biker Denim THE EPIC JOURNEY THROUGH BIKER CULTURE BY TATIANA GEE
When you think of a motorcycle gang,
there are a few images that likely come to mind: leather jackets, chain wallets, and patches that read “born to be wild” or “ride ‘til I die.” However, many people often don’t realize how much denim has contributed to the subculture of many motorcycle gangs as fashionable, but necessary clothing. In the 50’s and 60’s, motorcycle gangs began to pop up everywhere. The thrill of riding down the highway, feeling the breeze on your back and the sun on your face was enough to set this subculture ablaze, and soon, owning a hog became a subculture of it’s own. However, due to the long distances that bikers often traveled, it became apparent that they would need to dress appropriately for the array of weather conditions they could face. Although leather jackets were the first choice for many bikers, they weren’t always the best option. In addition to being expensive, the tough leather restricted movement and made it hard for bikers to
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bend their elbows, which ultimately made their shoulders ache. The question of how they could maintain the “tough” image while also being comfortable, safe, and warm was quickly answered with the rise of denim company’s like Levi, Lee, and Wrangler. Brand name denim was particularly important to many bikers. When buying brands such as Levi, Lee, or Wrangler, bikers could be assured that they were receiving the best swatches of denim for the most reasonable prices. Biker’s were more often then not apart of the blue collar or working class, and though they spent a large amount of their salary on their attire and bikes, there budgets were limited. Moreover, bikers and their clubs often looked to idols such as James Dean and Steve McQueen for inspirational fashion and sturdy wear. KC Dee, an expert in the rise of denim among subcultures explains the motive for the design behind the fashion: “Motorcycle clothing and fashion have actually been designed for functionality more than style. Double stitched
leather jackets, heavy denim, thick boots all provide some form of protection while exposed to the environment on the bike.” Furthermore, brawny, aggressive and prominent biker gangs such as The Outlaw Gang sported their denim, from patched vests to double stitched jeans across the country. This left other bikers to follow in their footsteps.
become a popular trend among many subcultures, and not just bikers. The trend had spread from bikers to greasers, to the common individual. When the 70’s and 80’s hit, almost everyone could be seen wearing denim. And now, denim is so versatile that there are hundreds of styles to choose from. Though, the James Dean biker style jean has yet to go out of style.
What was once a prominent sign of a biker Iconic photographer Danny Lyon, who spent in the 50s and 60s, used mainly for safety most of the 50s and 60s photographing motorcycle gangs, portrays a deeper look into from the roads harsh conditions, was now an
the fascinating culture and fashion that came from these clubs and gangs. In almost every photo that Lyon snapped, the biker featured could be seen sporting something fashioned from denim, whether it be jeans, a vest, or both. Over time, the importance that was placed on these pieces of clothing became clear, and is very apparent in Lyons photography collection. Those who were closely tied to the biker community, or bikers themselves understood the importance behind such articles of clothing, for they were not just something wear, but a rite of passage. Patches on denim vests were earned like war metals, and were carried a great deal of respect. This was the biker way to convey to other bikers in their club that they were one of them, that they too were part of this up and coming culture. To opposing gangs, it sent a clear message of loyalty, and acted as a warning label stitched between their shoulders. Soon enough, ‘biker style’ denim had
up-and-coming fashion fad that led to an explosion of sales for Levi’s, Lee’s and Wrangler. Denim manufacturers, who were once mainly in the United States and the United Kingdom, began popping up everywhere. Historically, denim was viewed as masculine, however over time, female icons such as Marilyn Monroe were seen sporting denim high waisted pants, and slimmer cut denim jackets. She helped to redefine this fashion for women. Denim became not only socially acceptable for the ladies, but a must-have piece for any individual. Throughout the last century, denim has been redefined numerous times, yet it has remained the same staple for one robust crowd. Bikers, true motorcycle riding enthusiasts, know the importance in a good beaten up denim vest riddled with patches. For them it is more then fashion, but a symbol of belonging to a group bigger then any biker, the biker gang.
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