The Digest | January/February 2020

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New in Town

Foodie Fiction

Where To Go When...

Natural Wine 101

The Rise of Mezcal

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JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020 | THEDIGESTONLINE.COM

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The Ninth Annual

Restaurant Guide



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JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020

CONTENTS 16 New in Town A roundup of Hudson County’s best and brightest to have opened—or will soon. 20 Food for Thought The Hoboken Public Library and WORD Jersey City recommended their favorite mouthwatering reads. 24 CBD & Food: The Great Debate Is there harm behind the hype? We get to the bottom of trendy CBD infusions.

34 Where to Go When... Devour Hudson County based on your mood, company or whatever. 40 Au Naturale The creative minds behind Frankie share some basics about natural wines.

44 Crazy for Omakase Sushi gets the speakeasy treatment in the back of Jersey City’s Ani Ramen House. 48 Waste Not, Want Not A look at food waste in the restaurant industry, its impact on the environment and who’s taking action locally. 56 Speciality Spirits to Watch Super Buy-Rite JC names three spirits that are trending for 2020. 60 Local events

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lur p. S ip. R e

29 Modern Butcher Sustainability is the story at Jersey City’s Darke Pines.

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PUBLISHER Thomas La Vecchia EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Michael Scivoli EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Abby Montanez SENIOR DESIGNER Christine Lisi COVER PHOTO Peter Bonacci PHOTOGRAPHERS Maged Samuel CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Rosy Alvarez, Peter Candia, Kelly Edgeworth, Neil Shrodo @thedigestonline | thedigestonline.com

EDITOR’S LETTER

For me, planning dinner at one of my favorite Hudson County restaurants is like a mini vacation.

So many things to see, touch, devour. Where do I go? If I stop for drinks first, will I make my 8 p.m. reservation? And does the host know I wore this shirt the last two times I came here? It’s ridiculous. But look, it’s not my fault. In the past six years I’ve been working here, the Hudson County restaurant scene has won me over. It’s funny, many of the places I frequent now weren’t even here then. That’s a testament to how much our food culture has thrived. I can’t remember the actual moment when I realized just how spectacular it was. Maybe it was the moment Ryan DePersio served me my first ricotta gnocchi at Battello back

in 2015. Or perhaps it was when Jamie Knott’s crew at Cellar 335 hooked me up with a “Fightin’ 5” and spicy cornbread. Truth be told, it was a culmination of all those moments. As if we needed an excuse, 2020’s Ninth Annual Restaurant Guide has some great inspiration for your next mini foodie vacation (or staycation, Taqueria and chill is never a bad idea). Speaking of motivation, how about that dosa waffle from Simply Chai? I mean, I’m hungry already. The cover shot is the first publication cover for Jersey City-based photographer Peter Bonacci, who is quickly becoming one of the area’s best talents (see more of his work in “Where to Go When…”). Also inside, we dive into the world of natural wine at Frankie; and go behind the scenes of sustainable butchery at Darke Pines. And when you’ve flipped through the last page—get out there. Eat. Steal a fry (or ten) from someone. As long as it’s not from me. MICHAEL SCIVOLI EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

The publisher takes no responsibility for the accuracy of the information or claims of any advertiser in this publication. The advertiser is solely responsible for the info, statements, claims or warranties mentioned in their advertorial or advertisement. Reproduction of, or use without written permission of the publisher, of editorial, periodical, or design content of any manner is strictly prohibited.

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NEW TO JERSEY CITY (DOWNTOWN)

Franklin Social

Hudson County’s food scene is booming. It seems as though every day brings with it some delicious new restaurant or bar concept right in our backyard. This year, we’ve put together a comprehensive list detailing the latest eateries to open in our area. BY KELLY EDGEWORTH

LO KA L

Replacing P.J. Ryan’s on the corner of Barrow and Mercer is Franklin Social. Inspired by founding father Benjamin Franklin, Franklin Social revamps the traditional American tavern. Brought to you by the same minds behind Cowan’s Public in Nutley and The Barrow House in Clifton, Franklin Social is kicking off the new year with a little knowhow. With an emphasis on Colonial drinking culture, and a menu that changes with the seasons, it just might be our favorite new hangout of 2020.

Manny’s District Lounge

A new cocktail bar in Mark-Cali’s Harborside recently opened its doors to a lucky few during a preview event showcasing their drinks. Manny’s boasts 11 signature cocktails, and a $75 million renovation. In addition to happy hour specials, the sleek new lounge will also include billiards, ping pong and foosball tables. Many of their cocktails feature local spirits including favorites such as Misunderstood Whiskey and Corgi Spirits.

DOMODOMO

Quality and innovation are understated terms to describe DOMODOMO. From the minimalist interior design created by veteran designer, Jae Park, to the culinary genius of founder Brian Kim, this high-end yet simplistic restaurant is constantly evolving and improving. Descending from NYC’s first handroll sushi bar, DOMODOMO offers a variety of dishes like their signature made-to-order hand rolls as well as hot dishes like spicy smoked pork belly or Korean fried chicken.

LOKAL

With a perfect view of the New York City skyline, LOKAL Eatery and Bar brings new life to the space formerly occupied by Taphaus. Using locally-sourced ingredients, LOKAL focuses on smaller plates with globallyinspired flavors coupled with a communal atmosphere. Dig into small plates such as their savory truffle mac and cheese, or, if you’re feeling hungry, large plates like lamb medallions over spiced couscous. 16

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NEW TO JERSEY CITY (THE HEIGHTS)

Busy Bee Organics

Eating out can add up in expenses but sometimes you don’t have the time, nor the energy, to prepare a meal every night. This is where Busy Bee Organics comes in. A meal prep establishment new to Palisade Ave, Busy Bee is offering The Heights a service unlike any other in the area. With on-site nutritionists, locally sourced ingredients and an evolving menu, Busy Bee is sure to satisfy the neighborhood’s fastpaced needs.

Cocoa Bakery

One of the downtown areas favorite sweet spots has made its way to The Heights neighborhood. The second storefront for Cocoa Bakery sits on Central Ave, still owned and operated by former Nobu pastry chef Jessica Isaacs. The flagship store is triple the size of its sister location, but serves up the same selection of delicious pastries, pies, custom cakes and cookies. Not to mention their killer coffee to wash it all down.

BUSY BE E OR GA

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Bread & Salt

Attracting the attention of big-name food critic Pete Wells, one could say that Bread & Salt has a running start on success. This pizzeria takes its food very seriously and doesn’t view toppings as a garnish but an intrinsic part of the pizza’s identity. Each slice is crafted to be an experience unlike any other, adding yet another layer to Jersey City’s emerging pizza game.

The Franklin

Twenty years in the making, The Franklin is the pride and joy of Chef Jamie Ramirez. Specializing in homemade Italian food, Ramirez hopes to serve the community in ways that surrounding restaurants don’t. His love for the craft shines through in The Franklin’s eclectic menu ranging from braised short ribs and an array of risottos to eggs benedict and ricotta pancakes. Ramirez plans on serving all-day brunch and dinner at night with the option of catering at any event.

Riverview Wine & Spirits

It is such a rarity to find natural wines outside of vineyards or high-end restaurants. Riverview Wine & Spirits is here to fill that need. With a vintage and classic vibe, Riverview prides itself on the home-grown quality of all its products from natural, organic and biodynamic wine offerings to cheeses, craft beers, ciders and specialty spirits.

B U SY B E

E ORGAN

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NEW TO HOBOKEN

Loquito

Breaking new ground, Loquito is the first if not only Lebanese-inspired taqueria. Loquito balances itself in a way where it is not fully Mexican or Lebanese cuisine, but a perfect fusion of the two. Each dish’s ingredients are fresh and their flavors are distinct while still being complementary to each other; they operate with a combination-style menu making the flavor possibilities endless.

Olivia’s

(Opening March 2020) Native Hoboken architect group OLMK is converting the former corner store Sasso’s Deli into an American-style eatery set to open in March of 2020. From Grand Vin owner Mike Galluci, Olivia’s will maximize the deli’s previous dining area and move the kitchen into the basement. The upscale dining concept has Hoboken residents waiting with bated breath in anticipation of a new Garden Street restaurant.

LO Q U IT

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Simply Chai

Chai directly translates to “tea” in Hindi, which is exactly what Simply Chai is dedicated to providing. Hudson County is home to a large population of East Asian peoples and it is very exciting to see a modern and authentic Chai brewery. Made by brewing black tea with the exotic and earthy flavors of masala, cardamom or matcha, be sure to pair your Chai with one of their sweet or savory dosa waffles garnished with everything from Amul cheese and garlic chutney to bananas and chocolate syrup. Simply Chai is set to bring in an entirely new flavor and culture to the people of Hoboken.


D E N OVO

NEW TO GOLD COAST

VENTANAS at the Modern

Even from the pictures, one can appreciate the artful presentations of the food and drinks at VENTANAS. From bison short ribs to dragon roll sushi, VENTANAS has a very worldly menu as their cuisine is a mix of American, Asian and Cuban flavors. Set beside Fort Lee’s The Modern, VENTANAS is a classy yet comfortable outing for any occasion, and the atmosphere is perfect for everything from a romantic dinner date to a night out with friends.

De Novo European Pub

Sitting on the edge of the Hudson River overlooking New York City and the George Washington Bridge is De Novo European Pub. From the same owner of the restaurant’s sister location in Montclair, De Novo’s Mediterranean-inspired design looks like it’s been taken right off the coast of France. Its European-style cuisine melds traditional Italian and French flavors offering specials like filet mignon au poivre and the Chilean sea bass. Perfect for a casual lunch or dinner and drinks, De Novo brings a new culture from the old world.

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for BY ABBY MONTANEZ There are two ways in which I prefer to spend my time: cooking and reading. In an alternate universe, I would be a food blogger, YA fiction author or own a cozy brick-and-mortar bakery. Instead, I get my fill from indulging in books about food—my two great loves colliding to satiate both my mind and stomach. From deliciously detailed novels to non-fiction tales about the culinary industry’s best and brightest, food lovers can rejoice in the abundance of literature that exists to covey the pleasures of eating and cooking. And it’s safe to say that no one understands the power of a good book better than local hubs, The Hoboken Public Library and WORD in Jersey City. Together, we’ve compiled our favorite food-related reads that are sure to feed your soul this winter.

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THE HOBOKEN PUBLIC LIBRARY YES, CHEF BY MARCUS SAMUELSSON This fascinating memoir was written by the celebrity chef renowned for Harlem’s Red Rooster restaurant, as well as Marcus B&P, located in Newark. He was born in Ethiopia and adopted by parents in Sweden. He worked his way up from apprentice and tells how his life experiences influenced his art. - Victoria Turk, Reference Assistant

THE SUGAR QUEEN BY SARAH ADDISON ALLEN If you are in the mood for a dose of magical realism Sarah Addison Allen is the author for you! An engaging story about one woman’s quest to expand her world with the help of a fairy godmother, “The Sugar Queen” celebrates the joys of food, books and friendship. - Aimee Harris, Head of Reference

DIGEST STAFF PICK THE CITY BAKER’S GUIDE TO COUNTRY LIVING BY LOUISE MILLER I was gifted this book a few years ago by my editor, who’s well aware of my affinity towards food. And in this case, also dogs, considering the protagonist travels around with her Irish Wolfhound companion named Salty. Author Louise Miller, a successful novelist and professional pastry chef, paints the story of baker Livvy Rawlings who leaves Boston to work at a rural Vermont inn. Full of dreamy country landscapes, small town gossip, romance and an annual pie contest—it’s the ultimate wintertime read. - Abby Montanez, Editorial Assistant January | February 2020

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WORD JERSEY CITY THE COOKING GENE BY MICHAEL W. TWITTY A wonderful examination of the influence that the African American community has had on southern cuisine. Michael Twitty’s ability to restore this forgotten food history automatically solidifies its spot as a culinary classic. - Deidre Dumpson, Operations Director

THE BEST AMERICAN FOOD WRITING 2019 ED. BY SAMIN NOSRAT This book is a beautiful collection that forces the reader to know the cultural, historical and individual influences of food. Be prepared to laugh, get angry, celebrate the history and so much more with the essays in this book. - Ashante Smith, Bookseller

AN OMELETTE AND A GLASS OF WINE BY ELIZABETH DAVID Hands down the greatest food writer of our time. Not many writers can speak to the care that cooking deserves and inspire you to do the same. READ THIS BOOK! - Davi Marra, Retail Director

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CBD & FOOD:

THE GREAT DEBATE

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As the support for marijuana legalization sky-rockets, CBD has taken pop culture by storm. But, there are still many questions in terms of its trendy infusions in food, long-term effects and legality in the U.S. market. BY ROSY ALVAREZ There have been a slew of unique food trends that have become very popular in the last few years. From charcoal-infused ice cream cones to impossible burgers, it doesn’t seem like this pattern of “viral food” is slowing down anytime soon. The latest product to hit the market is CBD, a chemical derived from the hemp plant. CBD-infused milkshakes, coffee, cocktails, baked goods, and dinner meals have become incredibly easy to find. It’s fairly common for your favorite brunch cocktail to come with an optional infusion at a few extra dollars cost. Despite its increased demand, consumers, drug regulators and law enforcement officials still seem to be confused about the products’ legality,

side-effects, and what the differences are between hemp and marijuana. Hemp and marijuana are sister plants that both come from the cannabis sativa plant species. CBD is derived from the hemp flower and although both plants bear a visual resemblance, they have many chemical differences. The key difference is hemp has an extremely-low amount of THC which is the psychoactive chemical found in marijuana that causes a high. CBD products are FDA approved for distribution but retailers must adhere to federal guidelines that state the products must be hemp-derived and contain less than 0.3 percent THC. Hemp-derived CBD can potentially be used to treat any number of non-life threatening health issues. Some of those conditions include insomnia, anxiety, inflammation, chronic pain, and stress. However, long-term side effects of CBD consumption are still largely unknown, while short-term side effects include drowsiness, and when consumed in large amounts, may make you test positive for cannabis in urine drug tests. In addition, CBD is fat soluble, meaning you may eventually grow a tolerance to its chemical effects. I’ve always been an “against the grain” kind of person, so naturally I didn’t jump on any of the popular offerings right away. Don’t get me wrong, I’m all for natural remedies and I always feel guilty getting rid of aches and pains with acetaminophen and similar over-the-counter medicines—the prior which has been linked to liver damage. CBD seems like a promising option when you are on the hunt for less physically damaging solutions.

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To learn more about the retail side of CBD distribution I connected with Darek Wadja, the founder and owner of The Green Room, an ethical CBD shop located in Hoboken, NJ. Wadja does not claim that these CBD products are cure-all remedies for illnesses, but he does believe in natural alternatives to issues we all experience in some form or another. His suppliers include local New Jersey businesses like Bimble, VeloBar and Kalo as well as others from California, Oregon, Florida and Nevada. I asked Wadja if the majority of The Green Room’s clientele are looking for health benefits or if they are mostly recreational users. “There’s a healthy combination of the two. Most people are using these products because they are looking for some sort of relief. Whether its pain management, anxiety, stress or even insomnia, everyone comes into the store with a purpose,” he explained. CBD’s benefits are extensive when used properly and provides relief more specifically as an anti-inflammatory treatment. By now, most of us have noticed advertisements and menu selections for dishes or drinks that are infused with CBD. I found myself puzzled when I started noticing the phrase “CBD-infused coffee” written onto intricately detailed chalkboard announcements outside of my favorite coffee shops. I saw it on social media, on dinner menus, and even on happy hour drink specials. Just as swiftly as it came, it disappeared. New York City banned all retail sales of CBD products in the summer of 2019. New Jersey, however, did not. If you are a big fan of the CBD-infused products you have tried, the market is growing. More and more businesses are opening up that cater to the natural remedy/cannabis-friendly demographic and beyond. Legality is becoming less black and white and we can see a shift in politics in terms of support for full cannabis legalization. Some places where you can enjoy ethically-produced, CBD-infused products include The Green Room. They sell a variety of CBD-infused topical creams, candies, teas, and tinctures. All of the 26

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products sold by The Green Room are thirdparty lab tested and go through a research process before they’re added into the store. Customers are also offered free samples of new concoctions, and if those products get positive feedback, they are placed out on shelves. Locally, it seems CBD-infusions are popping up everywhere. Frankie, a Jersey City restaurant, also specializes in CBD infusions. They allow customers to add Rosebud CBD to any drink on their menus, from coffee to cocktails and mocktails. Their focus on natural, farm-to-table, fresh food makes this place a contender for trustworthy places to try anything infused. Another spot in Hoboken, Northern Soul Kitchen & Bar, endearingly call themselves “a neighborhood joint” also offers CBDinfused drinks on their menu. Since many eateries have adopted infusing their food and drinks, it’s important for restaurants to be transparent about

where their CBD product comes from and how much they’re using. It is also crucial for us as consumers to know how much CBD is in our dinner, drinks, and where these establishments are getting their products from. Sometimes that information is not easy to find and we need to be in charge of asking for it. CBD does not have a recommended daily intake the way alcohol does. Even if it did, everyone’s body is different and therefore reacts differently. I wondered if eateries took serving sizes into account when offering so many different kinds of cannabis infusions. Wadja recommends trying CBD products in small doses before bedtime to notice how your body reacts. He also mentioned that he was glad to hear NYC banned CBD products, noting that businesses were simply looking to make a quick buck. The problem with trends is that when a really great product hits the market, a lot of lower-quality, cheaper knock-offs follow. This phenomena is no different when it comes to the cannabis industry. Many of the affordable CBD options on Amazon have been reported to have little to no actual CBD in them. It’s important to note that CBD has a boiling point, meaning if it is heated improperly it will lose all medicinal value. It has taken Wadja a number of years to learn how to properly infuse consumable products with CBD and the differences in quality. This is why the whole trendy coffee infusions are questionable in the first place. How could so many businesses become experts on CBD seemingly overnight? When used in moderation and bought from quality-focused suppliers, there’s no reason why you can’t use CBD for your insomnia, body aches or just for fun. Its health benefits are becoming too clear to ignore, but there is also not enough science to prove if there are negative side effects when consumed long-term. When CBD is on the menu, remember to ask questions. And as the relationship between CBD and food evolves in the coming years, it’s important to know exactly what (or how much) is going into your body. January | February 2020

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—Darke Pines takes sustainable meat sourcing into the 21st century in Downtown Jersey City.

BY PETER CANDIA | PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMBER BREITENBERG Animal agriculture is an increasingly unsustainable industry in America. Because of cost effectiveness and availability, Americans have adapted to rely on mass-produced meat and poultry which is not only cheaper, but more readily available. However, many butchers and restaurants nowadays are sourcing meat from local farms to promote sustainability, quality, health, and anti-cruelty. I sat down to talk with Will Messmer of Darke Pines in Jersey City, which has taken butchery into the 21st century with viable practices. January | February 2020

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Owners Will and Erica Messmer

The shop, which opened in April of 2018, is the brainchild of Messmer and his wife, Erica. After years of longing toward a career change, the couple settled on butchery as their aim due to the growing need for sustainable vendors. Living in New York City at the time, Dickson’s Farmstand Meats in Chelsea Market was what originally piqued the couple’s interest. They felt that the shop put out products and practices that exudes exactly what butchery should be. One problem arose, neither Messmer or his wife had any experience in butchery. Determined and goal-orientated, Messmer dove into a level of obsession to learn the tools needed to run a successful version of his new dream. “I obsessed over butchery, I trailed at several butcher shops for two, three days at a time—I learned that way,” he told me, “I learned a lot, but I still accepted that we needed to open the shop with trained butchers on staff if we wanted to be successful.” That’s where Giancarlo Sbarbaro, their head butcher, comes into play. Head Butcher Giancarlo Sbarbaro

With a plan in motion, the next step was settling on location. Messmer admitted to me that Jersey City was never really in the mix of where they had planned to open their doors. Instead, they looked at places like Alabama, Maine, and even Copenhagen. However, when they moved across the river into Jersey City, a lack of butcher shops in the area showed why it might be the perfect location for them. “I wanted to get good quality meat to cook at home, and I couldn’t find it. I couldn’t even find a good sandwich in the area,” Messmer stated. Quickly, they realized that the demand for a well-rounded butcher shop was right in front of their eyes. There were a few aspects that Messmer referred to as “must-haves” when they were planning the shop. Whole animal butchery, sourcing product through sustainable farms, a kitchen element for sandwiches and prepared foods, available produce, finding a use for every part of the animal, and as I mentioned before, a staff of expert butchers. Looking at the shop today, it is not wrong to assume that what Will and Erica Messmer 30

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conjure up in their dreams quickly turns to reality. Upon walking through the front door of Darke Pines, you are immediately hit with the sight of the butcher case. A closer look shows that it is divided into two sections. On the left, raw meat is on display. You will find here your steaks, pork chops, duck legs, and whatever other proteins they have on hand. On the right is where they display their more prepared meats. House-cured meat in particular being one thing that sets Darke Pines apart. The usual bacon, salami, and pastrami are of course available for purchase; however, more obscure products like guanciale (cured bacon made from pork jowl) and porchetta di testa (an entirely deboned pig head that is marinated, cooked, and sliced to be eaten like salami) are what puts Darke Pines above other butcher shops in New Jersey. And if you don’t see exactly what you are looking for, just ask any of the well-trained staff—they probably have what you seek somewhere in-house, which is one of the

many advantages to whole animal butchery. In addition to the butcher case, a small area for prepared foods is existent as well. Beverages, cheese, chicken liver mousse, and more can be found here. As well as expertly crafted sandwiches for purchase. With artisan bread, house made toppings and cured meats, the sandwiches at Darke Pines are not something to pass up. I was really impressed with how Messmer has made sustainability the most important aspect of his business plan. “We get whole animals in and it is important to use every piece of it that we can. The porchetta di testa in the case is one example of that,” he explained. And while eating the tongue of a pig may not be the norm for much of America, it is important to understand it as a crucial piece in reducing food waste. Total sustainability to Messmer means finding a use for everything; whether it is selling something expected like a pork chop, or using the excess of bones to make stocks and soups, knowledge on how to use everything is key to his business. January | February 2020

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Messmer went on to explain how working with high-quality farms is imperative when claiming to be a sustainable butcher shop. Not only are smaller farms better for the environment, but they treat the animals better than factory farms which is apparent in the quality of the meat. So, when opening the shop, the couple researched and tested several farms that would deliver the quality and sustainability that they sought for. This type of business plan, while rewarding, has its challenges. It would be easier to order in the cuts that they have the highest demand for and ditch the whole animal aspect entirely, but easy is not what is important to Messmer. “With Christmas just around the corner, I needed a lot of rib roasts. I would’ve saved a ton on labor costs by just ordering already butchered rib roasts, that are ready to sell, but that

would be going against what we stand for in a way,” Messmer explained while talking to me about customer demand for product. Of course, when demand is high, they may have to get whole beef primals in instead of the entire cow from time to time to increase quantity, but so long as the meat is still sourced ethically, Messmer does not see that as much of a disservice. A dream for a better industry surrounding meat and butchery is what initially sparked the interest for Will and Erica Messmer’s business. After years of obsessing over butchery, and surrounding themselves with people who knew exactly what to do, they were able to turn their dream into reality in 2018. Darke Pines not only delivers quality product with ethically sound techniques, but it offers a glimpse into what butchery needs to become in the near future.


WHERE TO GO WHEN... Congratulations. You’ve made it this far. That must mean you like to eat. Isn’t it obvious by now that we’re all food obsessed? We think about food all day. We even have impromptu photoshoots with it. You know what’s wrong with us? Nothing. Food is amazing. Great. I’m glad we got that out of the way. Hudson County is packed with both legendary and progessive restaurant options alike. Picking the spot of the night isn’t always simple; we want to go everywhere, every day. It’s an emotional decision. There are variables. Sometimes we choose a spot because we’re feeling down. Sometimes we’re celebrating an occasion. Sometimes we say f*ck it and get a third order of chicken and waffle tacos at Gringo’s because it’s Tuesday—I don’t make the rules, I just follow my gut. So how are you feeling? Who’s in town? How’s your love life? Let’s use that to figure out where we’re going to eat today. And if you’re just here for the pictures that’s cool, too.

By MICHAEL SCIVOLI Photography by PETER BONACCI 34

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Devour HUDSON COUNTY

based on your mood, company or whatever.

...YOU WANT BAR FOOD BUT YOUR FRIENDS ARE VEGAN. PET SHOP | JERSEY CITY You’ve put off this dinner for a while. Maybe you made up some BS excuse about Mercury being in retrograde. You love the pub life but your friends’ zealous diet doesn’t quite fit the atmosphere of beer, burgers and wings. Or maybe you’re the one with the environmentallyconscious diet. And that’s OK, too. Good vegan food takes some creativity, and no one does that better than Pet Shop. There aren’t many (any) places that have the courage to pull off a “sausage” and peppers hero using smoked seitan, or cauliflower buffalo “wings” and still have a badass pub vibe.


...A HOOKUP IS BECOMING A THING. CELLAR 335 | JERSEY CITY You said this was just a fling; it wouldn’t get serious. Well, it’s too late. She introduced you to her friends. And damn it, he remembered your roommate’s cat’s name from your epic rant the first time you met (yeah, you probably shouldn’t have said that, but at least he’s listening). Things are escalating. You don’t have to give him your extra key fob just yet, but you should totally start sharing oversized tiki cocktails at Cellar 335. It has a hip, original ambience few spots in Hudson County (and New Jersey) possess. So be daring. Order some Cellar fries and avocado fried rice to share. Just make sure you use two forks because, remember, you’re not quite there yet.

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...YOU HAVE SEASONAL DEPRESSION. ANI RAMEN | JERSEY CITY

OK, maybe it’s not that serious. The cold of winter just stings a bit more in your 30s than it did in your 20s. Don’t complain. Eat more ramen. And it would be contrarian of anyone to suggest Ani Ramen isn’t the place to do it. I never thought that at this stage in life the first thing I would think of when the temperature hits below freezing is Berkshire pork

bone broth, but here we are. As if the bowls and monthly Soul of Sake events weren’t enough to cure the frostbite blues, Ani Ramen has recently opened its very own glorious sushi speakeasy, Sushi by Bou. That’s right, try being depressed with a bowl of ramen, Japanese whisky and a 12-course sushi tasting menu.


...YOU WANT DINNER TO FEEL LIKE GOING OUT.

...SURPRISE, YOUR PARENTS ARE IN TOWN.

VENTANAS AT THE MODERN | FORT LEE

MATHEWS FOOD AND DRINK | JERSEY CITY

I get it. The work week is over. You want to seize this opportunity to blow off some steam. But after that commute home, the last thing you want to do is head back across the river. On the same note, your inner foodie wants to let loose, too. For that, prescribe a Friday night out at VENTANAS at The Modern. You’ll start off with Chef David Burke’s eclectic menu and as the night draws on (and the DJ takes a few risks), the space takes on new life and high energy.

You didn’t think they were going to trek all the way up from Monmouth County, but it’s happening this time. You’re going to want to take them somewhere that’s hip but also says that your palate consists of more than just take-out from Taqueria. For that, Mathews Food and Drink is the ultimate choice. First, its location at the corner of Bay and Grove is simply unmatched. Second, there’s something for everyone. Whether mom’s adventurous and digs the campanelle pasta with pancetta pumpkin cream, or dad keeps it simple with a roasted half chicken with mashed potatoes and gravy.

...YOU WANT TO MAKE A BIG DEAL ABOUT BRUNCH. HALIFAX | HOBOKEN You’re that person. You live for those #brunchtime moments and mimosas. But you also want your food to be delightful and Instagram-worthy. By now, it’s no secret that Halifax tucked inside the W Hoboken is the place to make brunch the biggest deal ever. The massive space filled with white oak tables and walls cloaked in moss makes for a whimsical dining experience, alongside their mixed menu of land and sea. So do you. Take that picture outside on the waterfront. Snap a shot of your smoked salmon flatbread. Everyone’s doing it.

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Sure, good company and conversation transcends even the most monotonous Starbucks. But why not step up your game? Take a risk. Order a dosa waffle (or five) in the middle of the day. Simply Chai is a business built from passion—a space meant to truly “give you a break” as they like to say. It’s vibrant space features some natural wood juxtaposed with colorful umbrellas hanging from the ceiling. And news flash, their authentic chai tea is really, really good. With names like Magic Masala, nothing makes coffee and tea feel more special than Simply Chai. I mean, they have someone with the title of dosa waffle master for Christ’s sake.

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...YOU WANT TO BROADEN YOUR PIZZA HORIZONS. LOW FIDELITY | JERSEY CITY From the best Neapolitan pie in town, to that drunk slice from the place you can’t remember—you think you’ve had all the pizza. You haven’t. Enter Low Fidelity’s take on Detroit-style in The Heights. This local bar might be known for its chill vibe, but Lo-Fi’s picture-perfect rectangular pies have all the makings of a #eeeeeats post. Get right to business here, order the Motor City—with cured and smoked pepperoni and hot honey drizzle. Afterwards, get a little adventurous with some fermented pineapple (yes, I said it). The El Pastorizza will change the way you feel about the forbidden fruit alongside al pastor-style pork, avocado and salted onions. Come for the pizza. Stay for the atmosphere.

...YOU’RE WITH SOMEONE WHO IS COOLER THAN YOU.

...YOU’RE READY TO SAY F*CK IT TO YOUR 2020 DIET.

FRANKIE | JERSEY CITY

FIORE’S | HOBOKEN

We all have that friend. You know the one—nitpicking every food suggestion you make because they lived in Williamsburg for five and a half months that one time. They’re the coolest, aren’t they? Not anymore. Frankie is the coolest kid in town. Since bursting onto the JC scene just two years ago, the Aussie-inspired restaurant on Grove St. has been turning heads with its natural wine list and electric Art Deco decor. It’s one of the few places you’ll almost always end up buying a bottle at.

You’ve had enough. Salads be damned. Three weeks into 2020 and get fit, you’ll lose it if you see another lettuce wrap or spin bike. So f*ck it. What you really need is a colossal Italian sandwich, specifically one of the fresh mozz, prosciutto and roasted red peppers variety. In business for over 100 years, there’s no better place to fall off the wagon than Fiore’s in Hoboken. Come hungry and expect to wait if it’s peak hours!

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The world of wine can be really intimidating for a lot of people. Traditionally speaking, many wine drinkers have favorite wines that they tend to gravitate toward on a list, and they often neglect the idea of popping the cork of anything that they may not be used to. In the restaurant industry this is extremely apparent. If someone walks into a restaurant seeking an “oaky California Chardonnay,� they may get a cocktail instead when they discover that the list does not have exactly what they are looking for. For people who have yet to dip their feet into the world of wine, this can often be a turn-off. It feels pretentious, and uninviting. However in recent years, the rise of a niche category of wine has, in my opinion, worked to change that. Natural wine is understood to be the practice of making wine with organically farmed grapes that are fermented without the addition or removal of anything (sulfites) in the process. What you get is a final product that tastes and feels more lively, and perhaps one that is better for you in the long run. Natural wine producers seem to take a more casual approach to the branding process, while still taking the crafting of their wines very seriously. This is relieving to see, and feels more approachable for people who want to start drinking wine more often. For me, I was always turned off to wine by people that were insistent that more expensive is better. Why should wine feel so inaccessible? However, many natural wine producers have minimized the snobbery in the industry that is so off-putting. Of course, there are still expensive bottles of natural wine available, but it is never the only route to take, and with more restaurants including natural winemakers on their lists, accessibility is at an all-time high.

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“In the past, people felt they had to have a certain amount of knowledge to drink wine, it’s almost been an elitist thing. Natural wine has moved away from that—it’s about enjoyment.”

S

till, this is met with great pushback from many “old-school” wine drinkers. Yes, natural wine can a lot of the time drink differently than wine that is more processed. It often has a different taste and texture than the wine that many people know like the back of their hand. By farming organically, and refusing any additives such as sulfites in the fermentation process, you get a wine that is closer to reality—I would even go as far as to say a wine that tastes like what wine is actually supposed to taste like. This taste, of course, has been lost to the practice of mass-produced wine. Admittedly, I am still a newcomer to this intriguing world of wine. I went to Frankie in Jersey City—which offers a fully natural wine list—to discuss a little more about the ever-changing life surrounding natural wines. Rowen McDermott and Rebecca Johnson are the duo who run the show here, and McDermott in particular had a wealth of knowledge to share on the matter. “In the past, people felt they had to have a certain amount of knowledge to drink wine, it’s almost been an elitist thing. Natural wine has moved away from that—it’s about enjoyment. If you want to get geeky about it, that’s great, but it’s more about opening multiple bottles— trying different stuff,” McDermott told me. As he continued, I realized that much of what matters to the majority of wine drinkers in the country, was unimportant to McDermott. Regions, varietals, and vintages, while still valuable, don’t matter as much as simply pouring someone a glass of wine that they are going to love.

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One thing McDermott demonstrated to me during our conversation is how drastically two wines can differ, even if they are made from the exact same grape. He poured me a glass of two wines made from a white grape varietal known as Pinot Gris. The first being a “pet nat” which is a sparkling style of natural wine that is 100 percent fermented inside of the bottle using only natural yeast that is present within the grape itself. The producer, Commune of Buttons, makes distinct and fun styles of natural wine out of the Adelaide Hills region of South Australia. This wine, while technically white, is often mistaken for rosé with its pink hue derived from a slight amount of something in the industry known as “skin contact” (using the skins of white grapes to impart color, flavor and body). What you’re left with is a lovely textured sparkling wine that has slight body and even a flavor reminiscent of cider. Following this, I was met with another Pinot Gris, but this time from the producer Marc Tempe out of Alsace, France. Of course, the wine was created following the process of natural winemaking, yet it was much more reminiscent of a white wine that the average diner is accustomed to.

It differed tremendously from the first wine as it was not sparkling, nor did it contain any skin contact. Honestly, I had to question McDermott on whether these wines were actually from the same grape, or if he was just trying to trick me. Along with restaurants, more wine shops are beginning to carry natural wine as well. McDermott recommended me to shop at Riverview Wine and Spirits in The Heights, as they carry hundreds of bottles you may not normally see on shelves. Furthermore, Riverview’s owner, Chris Leo, is another reliable source of guidance for natural wines. Much like McDermott, Leo is removing the pretentiousness from the wine industry. This may be your first time hearing of natural wine, but I can promise you it will not be your last. While many seem to think pet nats and skin contact wine may be fads, the variety and uniqueness of the wines show it is anything but that. What many of these restaurants and wine producers care about more than anything is serving a wine that someone will enjoy. At the end of the day, if the wine in your glass is something that you like, then that is really all that matters.


BY ABBY MONTANEZ PHOTOGRAPHY BY PETER BONACCI

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Remember when we all lost it after a secret booze-infused ice cream shop opened in the back of Ani Ramen? It was tasty while it lasted, however the weather as of late hasn’t left me in the mood for any sort of frosty treat. But I ask you, is there ever a wrong time for sushi? The answer is obvious, thanks to David Bouhadana’s famous omakase experience Sushi by Bou, now occupying the former venue. Sushi by Bou officially opened this past December and is Jersey City’s first-ever sushi speakeasy. The well-known chain has had years of success in locations across America, popping up in cities such as New York and Miami. Omakase itself traditionally entails either a 30 or 60-minute timed dining experience where guests are guided through a multicourse tasting menu chosen by the chef. The Japanese phrase omakase means “I’ll leave it up to you,” so guests won’t know what they’re eating until they’ve actually arrived. At Sushi by Bou in Jersey City, they’re redefining the restaurant construct. There are no dining tables, only an eightseat sushi bar where guests are seated every 60 minutes on the dot. And the kicker, there’s no servers either. Due to the intimate nature of the omakase experience and the allotted speakeasy space, the chefs pass dishes to the guests directly over the counter. Although there is no formal menu in place, guests can expect 12 courses of highquality, locally-sourced fish in a variety of preparations.

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To complement the meal’s progression, there’s also a number of beverage offerings to sip on. Think Japanese beers, imported sake, rare Japanese whisky and signature craft cocktails using traditional Asian ingredients. The Shiso Southsider is made with Suntory Haku vodka, shiso leaves, simple syrup and lime juice; the Roku Martini features Suntory Roku gin, Kabuto sake and olives; and they’re putting their own spin on an old fashioned with Legent Bourbon, Angostura bitters and roasted barley syrup. While the timing may seem limited and the course amount abundant, know that Bouhadana designed his omakase sushi experience to be all about trust. Trusting the chef’s vision, the dinner’s pacing and on behalf of the guest, being prompt. Seriously, if you’re late they’ll have no choice but to start without you so it’s of paramount importance to show up on time. While this one-of-a-kind dining experience is synonymous with a rather steep price tag, a night at Sushi by Bou will only run you $50 per person (and $13 for cocktails). I don’t know about you, but that’s the kind of budget I can get behind and I assure you, Sushi by Bou is right on par with the best of them.

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WASTE NOT, WANT NOT BY ABBY MONTANEZ

ate chef, TV personality and NJ-native Anthony Bourdain was passionate about more than just the culinary trade. In 2017, he worked on a documentary called “Wasted!” in which he offered up an honest commentary about food waste around the world—noting its impact on deforestation, biodiversity loss and climate change. The film addresses home cooks, food producers and Bourdain tapped professional chefs such as Massimo Bottura and Dan Barber to weigh in. His message to the restaurant industry as a whole, not surprisingly, was to “be more clever.” This includes composting scraps, cooking nose-to-tail and using that so-called ugly produce. Locally, Hudson County has made several strides towards improving the environment. There are bans on carry-out plastic bags,

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styrofoam containers and Hoboken even went as far as to provide electric scooters as a means of transportation. Us residents and local businesses do our part to take out the trash and recycling, but we still have a ways to go when it comes to composting and more importantly, reducing food waste. Not only does food waste take a toll on our expenses (the average household loses roughly $1,500 a year on wasted food), it also has real negative consequences on the environment. The biggest culprit, not surprisingly, being the restaurant industry. From kitchen scraps that get discarded during prep to customer leftovers, it’s all being tossed in the trash to later end up in landfills or incinerators, contributing to the increase of dangerous greenhouse gas emissions. Methane in particular, which is known to be over 30 times more powerful than carbon dioxide.


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That’s not to say, however, efforts haven’t been made to lower our ecological footprint. In 2014, the Hudson Valley’s Community Compost Company (CCC) made its mark on Northern New Jersey as the first-ever food scrap recycling service. For the past six years, the CCC has teamed up with several eateries around Hoboken and Jersey City, and actually partnered with the city’s themselves, to implement composting initiatives and food waste reduction programs. “As a socially minded entrepreneur, Eileen Banyra, our founder and CEO, started Community Compost Company to lead the change on food waste, climate change and soil health by offering residents and businesses the opportunity to ecologically dispose of their food,” explained Andrea Rodriguez, Sales & Marketing Manager at Community Compost Company. “Prior to CCC, there was no composting service available in Hudson County. To date, we’ve recycled over 2 million pounds of food waste.” To put it into perspective, food waste that comes specifically from restaurants 50

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“TO DATE, WE’VE RECYCLED OVER 2 MILLION POUNDS OF FOOD WASTE.” makes up 15 percent of all the food that ends up in landfills. While better waste management in the kitchen can’t do anything to eliminate what’s already accumulated, composting takes those remnants and aids in the natural cycle of returning those nutrients back to the earth. Not only does that create fertile soil (to grow new, healthy food), it also minimizes food waste, makes renewable energy and lessens further landfill pileup.


Ways in which restaurants can impart no-waste efforts include composting dairy, bones, meat, fruits, vegetables, pasta, poultry, rice, seafood, drink garnishes and more. “The restaurants we partner with are committed to protecting the communities they do business in,” said Rodriguez. “They understand the environmental issues associated with food waste, and they make the decision to add another monthly expense to their operation because they know composting is the right thing to do.” A 2019 report by Champions 12.3 entitled, “The Business Case for Reducing Food Loss and Waste: Restaurants,” revealed that restaurants would save $7 on average for every $1 they invested in programs to reduce food waste in the kitchen. This included measuring and monitoring the amount of food wasted, training staff on food handling and storage procedures and redesigning their menus. The study was completed in 114 restaurants across 12 countries and found that within just one year, nearly every participant had

reduced their food waste by 26 percent on average. At the same time, more than 75 percent had also made back their investment—the cost of change totaling approximately $20,000. Concluding that not only is food waste reduction ethical, it’s also an essential business model. A few of the CCC’s Jersey City partners include Busy Bee Organics, The Archer, Barcade, Bucket & Bay, Subia’s Vegan Café and Low Fidelity Bar. These establishments are given a 48-gallon bin to fill and put out on pick up days, much like your standard trash and recycling service. CCC then comes by to collect and drop off a new bin in exchange. “In Hoboken, we partner with the city to offer eateries food scrap collection,” Rodriguez explained. “The city collects the material from businesses and we compost it on our facility in the Hudson Valley.” Their Hoboken clientele includes favorites such as Choc-o-Pain, Black Rail Coffee, Simply Juiced and Hudson Table, to name a few. They also provide signage of what and what not to compost, metrics of the amount of food recycled per week and even offer staff training to demonstrate the best practices to keep the composting process clean and easy. “Food waste reduction and composting go hand in hand, and we make a conscious effort to educate on both. As the Sales & Marketing Manager at CCC and a Jersey City resident, I’m thrilled to be able to share information throughout Hudson County.” Rodriguez makes her rounds in the area by speaking at neighborhood association meetings and attending community events and farmers’ markets—sharing her tips for reducing food waste, the benefits of composting and how to get started. In addition to the obvious benefits that composting and food waste reduction lends to the public, consumers might be inspired to rethink their intentions when it comes to cooking at home or dining out. If you’re looking to improve your personal environmental footprint, it never hurts to support businesses that are doing the same. January | February 2020

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A typical American restaurant throws out approximately

In one year, the restaurant industry is estimated to generate more than

85% OF FOOD THAT ISN’T USED.

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11 MILLION TONS OF WASTE.

For every meal served in a restaurant,

The average fast food restaurant accumulates

A single restaurant can produce up to

A ½ POUND OF WASTE IS CREATED.

200,000 POUNDS OF FOOD WASTE PER YEAR.

75,000 POUNDS OF FOOD WASTE A YEAR.

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15% OF ALL THE FOOD

that ends up in landfills comes from restaurants.

On average, restaurants would save

$7 IN OPERATING COSTS FOR EVERY $1 INVESTED in programs to reduce food waste.

OF A RESTAURANT’S FOOD WASTE COULD BE EITHER RECYCLED OR

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THE RISE OF

MEZCAL The finest spirit made by our southern neighbor is getting a run for its money. Mezcal, once known as that stuff with the worm in the bottle, is finally getting the respect it deserves. Mezcal can be made from any of the 11 different types of maguey, or the local name for the agave plant. However, most mezcal is made from agave espadín, and many consider the heart of mezcal to be Oaxaca which accounts for 60 percent of its production—much of it still made in the traditional manner. Tequila is, in fact, just one type of mezcal, and is made from blue agave in the area around the city of Tequila in the state of Jalisco. Over time, tequila eclipsed mezcal in demand and transformed it from a cheap and rough spirit to one of premier quality, akin to a single malt or a highend bourbon. That desire for high-quality tequila has energized the mezcal world, with many family or craft distilleries coming to America for us to try.

MEZCAL DEL MAGUEY These single village mezcals are bottled to show off the difference not only in the type of maguey used, but also the point of origin. Start with Vida de San Luis del Rio, an 84 proof Mezcal Blanco made from espadín. ($34.99) GEM & BOLT Made in Oaxaca, this mezcal is distilled with the local herb Damiana, used by the Aztecs and Mayans for centuries as a euphoric aphrodisiac. ($42.99) DERRUMBES ZACATECAS MEZCAL Handcrafted mezcals each representing the style of a different state, the Zacatecas is made from Tequiliana Weber agave grown in Hacienda de Guadalupe and uses copper pot distillation and is 96 proof. ($59.99)

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JAPANESE WHISKEY BOOM

Japanese whisky is one of the hottest spirits in the U.S. today, but less than 20 years ago, it was virtually unheard of, and rarely exported from Japan. “Scotch” made in Japan dates back to the 1920s, when Shinjiro Torii established the company that would become Suntory, and decided to build Japan’s first distillery. He chose the perfect place, Yamazaki, famed for its water quality, a key part of the scotch process. He hired Masataka Taketsuru, who had spent time in Scotland in the early 1920’s learning the distillation and aging process. Together they built the distillery, until 1934, when Taketsuru decided to build his own, and established Nikka Distillery in Hokkaido and became Suntory’s main rival. Japanese whiskey was almost exclusively drunk in Japan until 2001, when Nikka’s 10-year Yoichi single malt was submitted to Whisky Magazine. To everyone’s surprise, it won Best of the Best! This was followed in 2003 by Suntory’s 18-year Yamazaki taking the gold in the International Spirits Challenge. Nowadays, both whiskeys are very hard to come by so here are some selections that will ease you into the world of Japanese whisky.

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SUNTORY TOKI This is a blend of Suntory’s three main distilleries: Yamazaki, Hakushu, and Chita. It is blended to be smooth and perfect in a highball. Aromas of orchard fruits pair with flavors of citrus, herbs, almonds and a kiss of vanilla on the finish. NIKKA COFFEY GRAIN These are single grain whiskys distilled in a Coffey still. Closer to a bourbon than a scotch, it is a good introduction to the quality of Nikka’s whiskys. ($59.99 on sale)

KAIYO “THE SINGLE” 7 YEAR OLD JAPANESE WHISKY These are great single malt Japanese whiskys that are finished in Japan’s own mizunara oak barrels. This imparts a unique sweet, yet spicy oak that is loaded with vanilla overtones that integrate well with the whisky. ($49.99)


REGIONAL RUM RENAISSANCE

High-quality rum is coming to the States like never before. As a versatile offering, they differ from dark to light to young or aged. The taste can vary depending on a region’s specific style, resulting in a flavor profile that ranges from sweet, smokey, buttery or spicy. Check out these smaller distilleries that emphasize local ingredients and regional character.

VENEZUELA DIPLOMATICO RESERVA EXCLUSIVA Distilled from sugarcane honeys in copper pot stills and aged in small oak casks for up to 12 years. Rich flavors of sweet toffee, orange peel, and licorice on an elegant finish. ($34.99 on sale) DOMINICAN REPUBLIC KIRK AND SWEENEY 23 YEAR OLD RUM Distilled from raw sugarcane in the Dominican Republic, this rum is aged in American oak, which results in a deep amber color and flavors of dried fruits, toasted bread, honey and toffee with a finish of almonds and sweet vanilla. ($46.99 on sale)

GUATEMALA RON ZACAPA SISTEMA 23 SOLERA GRAN RESERVA First created in 1976 to celebrate the 100 year anniversary of the town Zacapa, this rum uses exclusively the first press of sugarcane honey that is fermented in copper lined column stills with a special local yeast strain. It is then aged in a mix of bourbon, Oloroso sherry, Pedro Ximinez sherry casks and cross blended by type and year. Sweet notes of roast coffee, butterscotch, vanilla, and dark chocolate are followed by citrus and apricot and finishing with nutmeg and ginger. ($39.99 on sale)

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Events JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020

January 18 10th Annual Beer, Bourbon, & BBQ Festival 2:00pm - 6:00pm | GA: $69

January 27-February 7 Hudson Restaurant Week See website for participating restaurants, www.hudsonrw.com

Brooklyn Expo Center: 72 Noble St, Brooklyn, NY 11222

January 31 Couples Night Out: Spanish Tapas January 19 Winter Buddies Cupcakes

6:30pm - 9:30pm | $200/per couple

9:00am | $125

Hudson Table: 1403 Clinton St, Hoboken, NJ 07030

Carlo’s Bakery: 95 Washington St, Hoboken, NJ 07030

February 1 Great Beer Expo: New Jersey January 26 Mutzfest 2:00pm - 6:00pm | VIP: $50, GA: $25 Elk’s Club: 1005 Washington St, Hoboken, NJ 07030

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12:30pm - 9:00pm | $48 in advance, $60 at the door, $12 Designated Driver (DD) tickets Meadowlands Exposition Center: 355 Plaza Dr, Secaucus, NJ 07094


February 2 Making Delicious French Macarons with Atelier Sucre

February 25 Celebrating Mardi Gras! New Orleans’ Cusine

3:30pm - 6:00pm | $90 one person, $70 for two people, $250 for three people

6:30am | $155 per person Haven’s Kitchen: 109 W 17th St, New York, NY 10011

Choc·O·Pain Hoboken: 157 1st St, Hoboken, NJ 07030

Febrary 12 Chart House Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Dinner 7:00pm | $125/per person (tax & gratuity included) Chart House: 700 Harbor Blvd, Weehawken, NJ 07086

February 22 Food Business Bootcamp 9:00am - 4:00pm | $250 Hudson Kitchen: 9 Basin Dr, Suite 150, Kearny, NJ 07032

Monthly Happenings Soul of Sake

$38 online, $42 at the door Ani Ramen: 218 Newark Ave, Jersey City, NJ 07302

Midnight Market $5

Harborside Atrium: 210 Hudson St, Jersey City, NJ 07311

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