7 minute read

Pizza

Pizza is one of our favorite foods, and lucky for us, we're surrounded by some of the best pies in the country! Here's a rundown of favorites: Old School (classic Neapolitan pie) and New School (modern takes on New Haven pizza).

New School

Nanas Bakery

The name and humble signage belie the menu that is anything but standard breakfast and lunch fare. Grains are milled in-house, and everything is scratch-made, down to the sausage on the pizza. Like many Nutmeggers, pizza is one of our very favorite foods, and here, you can even have it for breakfast. We rushed down to fill up on carbs, and that we did. Gluttony prevailed as we ordered the clam pie and a classic tomato on the most wonderful chewy sourdough crust. Do NOT miss the hot sourdough donuts.

32 Williams Avenue, Mystic

nanasct.com

82 High Street, Westerly

nanasri.com

Otto

Preparing a new, seasonal menu every day is a complicated affair. So it comes as no surprise that River Tavern owner Jonathan Rapp offers a simpler concept at his sister restaurant, Otto. But as you can imagine, this ain't no House of Pizza. Chewy, crispy, glorious pies emerge from the 900-degree, wood-fired oven in minutes. The Margherita, oozing with fresh mozzarella, dollops of stracciatella, and strewn with basil leaves, was a slice of pizza heaven, but the more complex pies are beautifully executed, too (from sausage and peppers to shrimp, squid, mint, and garlic). The famous RT Caesar and a gluten-free option are available, too. Beer? Yes. Wine and Avery sodas, too. Seasonal seating under the tent out back.

69 Main Street, Chester

ottochester.com

Bufalina

One of our favorites on the Shoreline, this tiny spot has been piling the freshest seasonal toppings atop a perfect pie since 2011. I pulled up a bright red stool to the white marble counter and tasted my way through their ever-changing menu. The Margherita here is excellent: a tomato, cheese, and basil pie with the addition of, well, more cheese! Gooey scamorza! The Primavera boasted the fresh tastes of spring: asparagus, pea leaves, and blistered spring onions. Potato, fennel, and sausage hit all the right notes from savory to slightly sweet. Order the Nutella Pie for dessert: thickly spread with the stuff and lightly dusted with powdered sugar. Good to know: Call ahead if you're planning take-out on the weekend. Outdoor seating available.

1070 Boston Post Road, Guilford

bufalinact.com

Bufalina, Guilford

Brickside Pizza

Brickside Pizza had us at: “Handcrafted, wood-fired pizza baked well done. Charring is to be expected". The menu offers a handful of unusual toppings, but if they can get a Margherita and the White Clam right, then I'll trust these guys. Freshly shucked clams are tossed atop a thin crust with garlic, olive oil, and Pecorino Romano and cooked to caramelized perfection. The Margherita was a close second. Yummy tomato sauce with a perfect punch of fresh flavor. To-go only. Take your pie to the gazebo or the town green just across the street for an idyllic dinner.

104 Main Street, Ivoryton

bricksidepizzact.com

Brickside Pizza

Privateers Pizza

The Pizzaiolo here has been slinging pizzas since he was a kid (his family owned Red Tomato in Madison), and he certainly knows his stuff. The style is thin crust, slightly charred and chewy, and if you are a fan of a clam pizza (like us), you’ll be glad to know the clams are fresh-shucked. Lots of toppings on the menu, and pies come in small (12″) and large (18″). Slices are available, but be sure and check the schedule before you go. Pizza is served on designated days and hours.

55 Main Street, Essex

privateerspizza.com

Privateers Pizza

Al Forno

This family-friendly trattoria, known for their New Haven-style brick-oven pizza, has raised the bar by offering a sublime pie made in a 250 year old tradition (which requires certification to produce – no joke!) called Pizza Napolitano Vera. The Caputo flour dough rises for two days at room temperature and is topped with housemade, slightly sweet, light tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella, and ribbons of basil. The crust? A perfect ratio of chewy to char.

1654 Boston Post Road, Old Saybrook

alforno.net

La Marea

This is one of our go-to's for Italian dining, (the Chicken Milanese is killer), but don't miss the pies here. Wood-fired and a wonderful appetizer to share, or grab a couple to go, featuring a robust sauce and chewy crust.

732 Middlesex Turnpike, Old Saybrook

lamareact.com

La Marea

Old School

Frank Pepe's, established 1925

It's been a long time since I've stood in line for Pepe's. With so much great pizza available, it hardly seems worth it. And I was so ready to dismiss this venerable pie. After all, with seven locations in Connecticut, they're not exactly a mom-and-pop shop anymore. Was the quality still up to snuff? A hearty YES! If you're a pizza purist like me, the tomato and mooozz (yep, that's how they say it!) pie has a nicely salted, skinny crust with just a bit of char. No insipid sauce here; it's bursting with tomatoey flavor.

157 Wooster Street, New Haven

order.pepespizzeria.com

Sally's Apizza, established 1938

Lots of folks call Sally's their favorite, and if we were anywhere but New Haven, we might too. This oldschool, no-frills joint offers up a classic New Haven skinny crust pie on an oblong metal platter that clearly has legions of fans (John F. Kennedy and Frank Sinatra among them). When you can't brave the lines for other New Haven joints, head here for a veggie pie (hot peppers lend a welcome spicy bite), or salty anchovy, which make up for the rather plain tomato and mootz. Good to know: cash only. Zuppardi's Apizza, established 1934 Because pizza is our favorite food, we thought it crucial to add Zuppardi's ballyhooed clam pie to our repertoire. Our server also recommended the sausage, so we ordered that, too. The sausage is fantastic (chunks of it, freshly housemade and cooked directly on the pie, makes all the difference), but oh, the clam! Redolent of garlic, with plump, juicy bivalves studding a thin, slightly charred crust, this is one remarkable pie. A bit of clam broth and olive oil soaks into the crust, adding even more clam flavor. Just a squeeze of lemon completes this memorable feast. Call ahead to make sure the clam pie is available.

237 Wooster Street, New Haven

sallysapizza.com

Modern Apizza, established 1934

Modern was our first foray into New Haven pizza when we moved here, and I thought I found the runner-up to Totonno's in Coney Island. I still think Modern is the king of crust: charred, never burnt, irregularly shaped, and flavorful. The place is not far off the beaten path of Worcester Street but still boasts a line most days. It's straight-up tomato and mooz for me, but regulars devour the Italian Bomb (Sausage, Bacon, Pepperoni, Mushroom, Onion, Pepper & Garlic). Good to know: small parking lot next door.

874 State Street, New Haven

modernapizza.com

Zuppardi's Apizza, established 1934

Because pizza is our favorite food, we thought it crucial to add Zuppardi's ballyhooed clam pie to our repertoire. Our server also recommended the sausage, so we ordered that, too. The sausage is fantastic (chunks of it, freshly housemade and cooked directly on the pie, makes all the difference), but oh, the clam! Redolent of garlic, with plump, juicy bivalves studding a thin, slightly charred crust, this is one remarkable pie. A bit of clam broth and olive oil soaks into the crust, adding even more clam flavor. Just a squeeze of lemon completes this memorable feast. Call ahead to make sure the clam pie is available.

179 Union Avenue, West Haven

zuppardisapizza.com

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