Y L A T I E T TAS
Special Edition
IDE U G S ’ ER D I S N I E
TH
HOW TO TELL REAL ITALIAN PRODUCTS FROM FAKE ONES
Plus 5 Italian products we can’t live without. 6–7
THE ART OF THE SPRITZ It's always aperitivo time somewhere. 10
THE PIZZA DIET
How chef Pasquale Cozzolino lost 100 pounds eating his favorite food. 14
LAND OF MILK AND HONEY
From Abruzzo, the best cheeses you’ve never had. 30
2
TASTE ITALY
A Taste of Italy
19.POUNDS4
annual consumption per capita in the U.S.
2. 7 MILLION TONS
PA S TA BY THE NUMBERS
46
annual consumption per capita in Italy
consumed per year in Italy
THE GLYCEMIC INDEX (GI) OF WHITE SPAGHETTI,
compared to 50 for brown rice, 70 for sweet potatoes, and 72 for white rice. The lower the GI, the slower and steadier the release of glucose.
When it comes to living a long life, Italy is the place to be.
!
Healthiest country on earth
the hardship of food shortages during World War II and had admired the resourcefulness of her grandmother Luisa, who made delicious dishes out of very little. And more than anything, she extolled the sacredness of family and its strongest expression—around the table where meals were shared. “Confessions, debates, advice, and resolution of the mini-tragedies that crop up in our daily lives all find their way to the table,” she wrote. “It’s a small universe of peace, the clearest proof of the ties of affection and love that exist in our little community.”
“Due dita di vino e una pedata al medico.” Translation: “A little wine kicks the doctor out the door.” Meaning: An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
MASSIMO BOTTURA
Wants to Feed the World
MICHELANGELO’S GROCERY LIST
PUBLIC DOMAIN
After the earthquake hit Emilia-Romagna in 2012, buildings crashed and toppled, and inside the warehouses where the famed Parmigiano-Reggiano cheeses were being aged, thousands of wheels fell off the shelves, cracked, and fractured. It would have been an incredible loss to the industry, were it not for renowned chef Massimo Bottura who, it could be said, single-handedly saved the day when he invented a cacio e pepe dish with a twist. Instead of pasta, it was risotto, and instead of the traditional pecorino romano, it was Parmigiano-Reggiano. Dinners featuring the dish were held on “Parmigiano-Reggiano Night, in support of Emilia-Romagna,” making use of the cheese from the damaged wheels. That was just the beginning. Bottura has since gone on an imaginative journey to feed the world. In 2016, he founded Food for the Soul, a nonprofit that makes use of food waste to feed com-
COURTESY OF FOOD FOR THE SOUL
The 2017 Bloomberg Global Health Index scanned statistics across 163 countries, and found Italy took the top spot as the healthiest country on earth. Italians have lower blood pressure and cholesterol than their peers in other developed countries. Bloomberg notes the surfeit of doctors in Italy, as well as a diet rich in vegetables and extra-virgin olive oil. Iceland, Switzerland, Singapore, and Australia rounded out the top five in the index, while the United States came in at number 34.
Here’s Michelangelo in a different light. The man known for gracing the Sistine Chapel with its exquisite paintings and sculptures of David and La Pieta brought an artistic, if hurried, flair to his grocery list. The list, dating from 1518, includes both a written list and, for the sake of his illiterate servant, illustrations in ink, of items including pani dua (bread rolls), un bochal di vino (a jug of wine), and una aringa (a herring). The grocery list is part of the archives at Casa Buonarroti in Florence, which holds a treasure trove of documentation about Michelangelo.
Sophia Loren loved to cook and eat. Hardly had she arrived in Hollywood in 1956 when reporters started to pepper her with questions about what diet she was on to stay in shape. “It amuses me to see their expressions when I answer, ‘Pasta.’ It is only a slight exaggeration,” she wrote in her cookbook “Sophia Loren’s Recipes and Memories.” “I adore pasta and eat it almost every day. And it is a healthful food, especially when served with tomatoes or other vegetable-based sauces.” Food has always been more than just food to Loren. Living in Pozzuoli, a small town outside Naples, she had known
1. 5 MILLION TONS ALL ILLUSTRATIONS BY SHUTTERSTOCK
consumed per year in the U.S.
55.POUNDS8
AN ITALIAN ICON
KEYSTONE FEATURES/GETTY IMAGES
1740
I adore pasta and eat it almost every day.
PHOTOS BY SHUTTERSTOCK
known shapes
SOURCES: INTERNATIONAL PASTA ORGANIZATION; HARVARD HEALTH PUBLISHING
310
The year the first pasta factory was granted permission to open in Venice
munities, inviting celebrated chefs cook and share their knowledge. At the Rio Olympics, for example, he opened a soup kitchen, Reffetorio Gastromotiva. One of the dishes was a carbonara but with smoked plantain peels instead of pancetta. It is in operation today as a soup kitchen for homeless people and a center for vocational training for young people from the favelas. In early 2017, Refettorio Felix opened in London.
CE'd BALSA
IC
ACE
O
M
T
Authentic Balsamic Vinegar comes from only 1 place in the world ... A
O
d
i
MODEN
BALSA
IC
O
ACE
O
M
Introducing the Aceto Balsamico di Modena PGI: Authentic from its origin
T
…The Modena and the Reggio Emilia provinces of Italy. complete, Balsamic Vinegar of Modena can be further aged, after being transferred to smaller barrels. If this phase lasts more than three years, the finished product can boast the “aged” classification.
A
d
i A unique, original, and protected MODEN product ... CONSORZIO TUTELA It’s perfect when paired with the great Italian cheeses, but it is also a wonderful Protection and promotion match with simple dishes from Italian and The Consorzio Aceto Balsamico di Modena was other culinary traditions, from tortellini to founded in 1993 by local producers. Since 2014, boiled meat, from salads to desserts. It can the Consorzio has been a Protection Consortium jazz up classic cocktails and sorbets, or make recognized by the Italian Ministry of Agricultural, for a fantastic finish on pizza or even gelato. Food and Forestry Policies, with the public Balsamic Vinegar of Modena is more than a function to promote and protect the authenticity fresh and light condiment—it is a surprisingly of the product. The Consortium consists of a versatile food. group of 50 producers, ancient as well as new families that have adopted the secrets and A little bit of history values of tradition. In 2009, the European The use of cooked grapes goes back to Union granted the “Protected Geographical Roman times, when they were consumed as a Indication,” or PGI, certification to Balsamic medicinal product, sweetener, and condiment Vinegar of Modena as a guarantee of the for meat. The first use of vinegar dates all authenticity of the product for consumers. the way back to 1046, when while traveling The PGI guarantees that the production through the Po Valley, Henry III, Emperor of the was in compliance with the product Holy Roman Empire, was given a “very perfect specification concerning region of origin vinegar” by Bonifacio, marquis of Tuscany and and traditional processes of production. At father of Matilda of Canossa, an episode that the time of purchase, it is the PGI logo that was documented by the abbot and historian allows consumers to distinguish the real Donizone. The first “acetaia,” or vinegar, at product from the counterfeit products that the Este court in Modena was born in the 13th are prevalent in retail stores. century, but only in 1747, in the registers of the cellars of the dukes of the Este court, did the Fostering Italian excellence adjective “balsamico” become forever tied to around the world vinegar and the land of Modena. Aceto Balsamico di Modena IGP is one of the most recognizable symbols of About Balsamic Vinegar of Modena Italian food excellence in the world today, Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PGI, or Aceto distributed in more than 120 countries. Balsamico di Modena IGP, is a precious Over the years, this unique and condiment obtained by blending grape musts incomparable product, with its slight that are cooked and concentrated with wine acidity, delicate aroma, and woody vinegar. The grapes originate exclusively from overtones, has managed to harmonize vines typical of the Emilia Romagna region, in an extraordinary manner with different including Lambrusco, Sangiovese, culinary traditions, with tradition and Trebbiano. and innovation, modernity and Once the minimum 60-day maturation in simplicity. containers made from precious woods is
Check the label: You know it's authentic when you see this PGI label from the European Union. It protects Italy's cultural heritage from fake and counterfeit products. Only two provinces produce real Italian Balsamic Vinegar: Modena and Reggio Emilia.
4
TASTE ITALY
TASTE ITALY EDITOR Channaly Philipp CREATIVE DIRECTOR Robert Counts ART DIRECTOR Luba Pishchik PHOTO EDITOR Benjamin Chasteen STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER Samira Bouaou
Cristina Fortini cuts slices of torta tenerina, Ferrara's signature chocolate cake.
La Baita, a cheese shop in Bologna. A NOTE FROM THE EDITOR
E
TASTE ITALY A special edition of
Independent, insightful
ASSISTANTS Christian Watjen Marco Tistarelli
this. But more delicious? I don’t think so. That excellence is perhaps why Italian products have so many imitators. Which brings me to Italy's beloved food legacy. In the following pages, you’ll find memories and stories of tradition and heritage, hard work and celebration—food festivals devoted to throwing wheels of cheese; water buffaloes subjected to massages and classical music, so that their milk (and the mozzarella made from it) might be the best; and honeys that are downright transcendent. As you peruse the pages of Taste Italy, I invite you to pour yourself a glass of vino and celebrate Italy through one of its most enduring passions: food. Cin cin!
Channaly Philipp Editor
ABOUT US The Epoch Times is a media organization dedicated to seeking the truth through insightful and independent journalism. Standing outside of political interests and the pursuit of profit, our starting point and our goal is to create a media for the public benefit, to be truly responsible to society. We endeavor to educate readers about today’s most important topics, seeking to broaden and uplift minds. We believe that rational, balanced debate is key for fostering a healthy democracy and a compassionate society. As an independent media outlet, we use our freedom to investigate issues overlooked—or avoided—by other media outlets. We seek to highlight solutions and what’s
CHIEF COPY EDITOR Julia Huang ADVERTISING DESIGNER Marie He
Why I Love Italy verything in the world moves faster today, and everything is more convenient. That’s one reason I think people keep visiting Italy: to be reminded of the greatness that can be achieved with patience and passion— even if it is just one bottle of olive oil or wine at a time. Visiting the Hombre farm in EmiliaRomagna, I stepped into one of those big warehouses where Parmigiano-Reggiano wheels are aged, ever so patiently. Except for a bit of machinery to ease the regular turning of those heavy wheels, much of the cheese-making process is still done by hand today, as it was nine centuries ago. Hombre’s founder, Umberto Panini, was so taken by the singular vision of creating great ParmigianoReggiano—so dependent on the cows’ diet—that the farm produces all its own feed and raises its own herd. There’ll always be more efficient ways of doing
ASSISTANT EDITORS Annie Wu, Sharon Kilarski
PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Deborah Yun Cover illustration of Sophia Loren by Renae Wang CONTACT US For customer service and subscription questions, call 212-239-2808. For advertising and partnership inquiries, please contact TasteItaly@TheEpochTimes.com The Epoch Times 229 W. 28th St., Floor 5 New York, NY 10001 TheEpochTimes.com 212-239-2808
good in society rather than what divides us. We report respectfully, compassionately, and rigorously. We stand against the destruction wrought by communism, including the harm done to cultures around the world. We are inspired in this by our own experience. The Epoch Times was founded in 2000 to bring honest and uncensored news to people oppressed by the lies and violence in communist China. We still believe journalism is a noble vocation, but only when it genuinely seeks to serve its communities and help them to flourish. In all that we do, we will hold ourselves to the highest standards of integrity. This is our promise to you.
5
TASTE ITALY
CONTENTS
18
SLOW FOOD, FAST CARS An unyielding pursuit of excellence makes EmiliaRomagna the birthplace of extraordinary food and exceptional cars.
28
DISCOVERING ITALIAN WINES With over 500 native grape varietals, there's more to the world of Italian wine than just Chianti.
A platter of cheeses and cured meats, served in Ravenna, Emilia-Romagna.
6
WILL THE REAL ITALIAN PRODUCTS PLEASE STAND UP?
5 ITALIAN PRODUCTS WE CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT
A TUSCAN STATE OF MIND How Gabriele Corcos and Debi Mazar cook and eat the Tuscan way —no matter where they are.
10
THE ART OF THE SPRITZ
Italy's most iconic aperitivo cocktail is simply irresistible. More than just a drink, it's a ritual redolent of la dolce vita.
No one parties more deliciously than the Italians. Italy's food festivals offer a window into the quirks of Italian food culture.
Welcome to Vannulo, where the water buffaloes roam, enjoy massages, and get a daily dose of classical music. The result? Out-of-this-world mozzarella.
Chef Franco Aliberti of the Michelinstarred La Présef.
GETTING FRESH WITH MOZZARELLA
14
30
In his book, chef Pasquale Cozzolino, from the award-winning pizzeria Ribalta, tells how he lost 100 pounds eating his favorite food.
Chefs rave about the Marcelli family's transcendent cheeses and honeys, made in an off-the-beaten-track village in Abruzzo.
THE PIZZA DIET
7
8
26
CELEBRATE LIKE AN ITALIAN
DOP, IGP, DOC, DOCG—it may all sound like alphabet soup, but appellation of origin labels are key for finding authentic products from Italy.
Whatever you do, don’t take away our Parmigiano-Reggiano. Plus where to shop for your favorite Italian products.
12
16
A TASTE OF EMILIA-ROMAGNA
Rich in history and tradition, EmiliaRomagna is a prime destination for food lovers. Here are a couple of recipes to recreate a taste of it at home.
22
FROM FARM AND FIELD TO THE TABLE
Nestled in a lovely Alpine valley, a working farm harbors a surprise: the Michelin-starred restaurant La Présef.
LAND OF MILK AND HONEY
33
ANCIENT WATERS
The journey of making award-winning sodas starts with the water.
34
AN INSIDER'S GUIDE TO ITALY
For consideration for your bucket list: Insiders weigh in on the best food experiences they've had in Italy.
6
TASTE ITALY ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/THE EPOCH TIMES
Eataly carries a wide diversity of authentic Italian products, both online and in stores.
LOOKING FOR AUTHENTIC ITALIAN PRODUCTS? OTECTED PR
• A
T RO
NDICATIO LI
ECTED G
•
RAPHIC
N
G EO
DOP
ORIGI •
•P
Protetta, or Protected Designation of Origin) is the most stringent and prestigious of the appellations. Products bearing this label have characteristics that are exclusively dependent on the geographical area of production or cultivation. Think terroir combined with traditional production techniques that may go back centuries. For prosciutto di Parma, for example, the animals must have been bred in the defined geographical area. All phases of the production are monitored. There are currently 166 DOP food products from Italy. Note that wine also has its own labels of appellation. The European Union considers the DOP label to encompass both DOCG and DOC appellations (listed below).
OF
DOP (Denominazione di Origine
D
N
DOP and IGP are acronyms that refer to labels of appellation from the European Union to indicate where a product comes from and how they are made. And they’re your best bet for ensuring the authenticity of products that may be imitated or emulated elsewhere. For example, “Parmesan” may sound an awful lot like ParmigianoReggiano, but if you’ve had the real thing, you will know there’s no substitute for a product for which the very elements of nature and place have been harnessed to make a masterful delicacy. These labels will steer you toward authentic products and away from look-alike knockoffs.
The labels DOP and IGP apply to food. IGP
IGP (Indicazione Geografica
Protetta, or Protected Geographical Indication) means that at least one stage of production, processing, or preparation takes place in a strictly regulated area, or that an essential ingredient in the product was produced in that area. There are currently 125 IGP food products from Italy.
DOCG (Denominazione di Origine
Controllata e Garantita, or Controlled and Guaranteed Designation of Origin) wines follow the most stringent winemaking rules, and the label is reserved for the highest-quality wines. For example, Barolo or Chianti Classico wines are from DOCG appellations. DOCG wines must pass an official analysis and tasting by government-licensed personnel. Bottles carry a numbered governmental seal on the neck.
In New York City Eataly Flatiron: 200 Fifth Ave. Westfield World Trade Center: 4 World Trade Center, 101 Liberty St., Floor 3 Di Palo’s Fine Foods Little Italy: 200 Grand St.
GNATI ESI O
N
Check for an appellation of origin label
WHERE TO SHOP
Online Eataly Eataly.com Gustiamo Gustiamo.com Marcelli Formaggi MarcelliFormaggi.com Rogers Collection RogersCollection.us Zingerman’s Zingermans.com
IGP or IGT (Indicazione GeoThe labels IGP, IGT, DOC, and DOCG apply to wines.
grafica Tipica, or Indication of Typical Geography) labels are reserved for wines that do not fit into either the DOC or DOCG categories, but that are typical of a specific geographic region or area. (The best examples in this category might be Super Tuscans.) There are 118 IGP/IGT wines in Italy.
DOC (Denominazione di Origine
Controllata, or Controlled Designation of Origin) refers to wine produced in a specific geographic area, using an officially permitted grape variety, and made according to winemaking rules meant to preserve local traditions. There are 405 DOC and DOCG wines from Italy; 74 are DOCG wines.
CHANNALY PHILIPP/THE EPOCH TIMES; ALL OTHER PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/THE EPOCH TIMES
5
ITALIAN PRODUCTS
We Can’t Live Without The most sought-after Italian products are often imitated, but in the final equation, nothing can recreate the elemental forces of nature—wind, sun, soil—that conspire with food artisans and producers to create products as unique as they are delicious. Here are five picks that we love.
Take some grape must, cook it down, stash it in wooden barrels in an attic, and subject it to varying seasonal temperatures for at least 12 years (or better yet, at least 25) and you end up with a condiment that’s nearly magical—rounded, harmonious, and polished, with zero acridity. You only need a few drops of traditional balsamic— on chunks of Parmigiano-Reggiano, on meats, on ice cream, on strawberries, on risotto, or by itself as a digestive. It has something of a reputation for being a cure-all, too. Is it really a miracle cure? Who knows, but it certainly tastes amazing.
Prosciutto
Many people know of gorgonzola piccante, the intense blue cheese from Lombardy and Piedmont. Lesser known, and more difficult to find, is gorgonzola dolce, a version that is younger and milder. But make no mistake, the funk is still strong with this one. It possesses a lovely, creamy texture with a buttery quality and an easy spreadability—it is a cheese you can happily eat with a spoon, or else use in salads, pastas, and risottos.
A cheese that has remained unchanged for at least nine centuries, Parmigiano-Reggiano has been called the king of cheeses. It was even mentioned by Boccaccio in “The Decameron” in 1351. It is a gorgeous balance of nutty, creamy, fruity, and umami that is simply irreplicable—and on an entirely different level than the similar sounding “Parmesan.” As it ages, it develops its characteristic granular texture as well as more intense flavors. Possibly one of the most sublime pairings imaginable comes from the Emilia-Romagna region, where a popular appetizer consists of irregular chunks of Parmigiano-Reggiano drizzled with traditional balsamic vinegar.
Traditional Balsamic Vinegar
Sofia Malagoli, whose family runs Acetaia Malagoli Daniele in Castelfranco Emilia, just outside Modena.
Gorgonzola Dolce
Parmigiano-Reggiano
7
TASTE ITALY
Ask any Italian and they’ll have a favorite cured ham, most likely from their own region. Produced since Roman times, prosciutto di Parma is known far and wide and is a classic. Another favorite is delicate prosciutto di San Daniele, nursed by the sweet Adriatic and Alpine breezes as it cures. The best prosciuttos—moist, sweet, and savory, silky smooth and translucent—need no accompaniment, just a glass of a local fizzy white or red. But they are versatile, too, when starring in affettati misti (platters of cured meats) or used to wrap just about anything—figs, nectarines, asparagus, chicken, or breadsticks.
Extra Virgin Olive Oil As the saying goes, what grows together, goes together. The spectrum of flavors among regional Italian olive oils is wide, but each is perfectly suited to local traditional dishes. The Gambero Rosso guide on Italian olive oils recommends using, for example, Ligurian olive oil made with Taggiasca olives to make Liguria’s famous pesto alla genovese, or a Pugliese olive oil made with Coratina olives to pair with Fave e Cicoria, a dish of fava beans and chicory.
8
TASTE ITALY LAYERED POLENTA WITH BROCCOLI RABE Polenta pasticciata vegetariana La Cucina
A Tuscan State of Mind ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF SIMON & SCHUSTER
E
ver since Frances Mayes’s book “Under the Tuscan Sun” was published, Tuscany and all things Tuscan have been a sort of runaway phenomenon. Tuscany is a place that looms larger in the public imagination than in life, with an enviable lifestyle cachet that conjures up images of romantic villas, noble cypress trees, and undulating vineyards flush with grapes. As a marketing phenomenon, it’s impossible to enumerate all the home furnishings that have adopted Tuscan in their name. Now there’s a new cookbook out, the second one from Debi Mazar and Gabriele Corcos, titled “Super Tuscan.” Wine aficionados will know that Super Tuscan is the name of immensely popular wines produced in Tuscany that do not necessarily use indigenous grape varietals. The label “Super Tuscan” fits here nicely with the authors, who co-host the Cooking Channel’s “Extra Virgin.” Mazar, who grew up in New York, is an actor (“Entourage,” “Younger”), while Corcos grew up on a farm in Fiesole, in the hills overlooking Flor-
ence. These days, they make their home in the neighborhood of Windsor Terrace, in Brooklyn. It turns out that, for Mazar and Corcos, being Tuscan really is a state of mind—and that no matter where they are, they cook and eat in a Tuscan way: seasonally, healthfully, and very conscious of where the ingredients come from. The cookbook includes their at-home favorites, including ones suitable for company, as well as simple, quick dishes. With a foot in each culture—American and Italian—it’s natural that along the way they’ll point out some common threads: Who knew, for example, that Tuscany also has fried chicken, with recipes from Italian Jews living in Florence and Rome? It goes to show that despite the distance, Tuscany may not be so far away after all. Recipe reprinted with permission from “Super Tuscan” by Debi Mazar and Gabriele Corcos. Copyright 2017. Published by Touchstone, an imprint of Simon & Schuster. All rights reserved.
Soft-cooked polenta is often served in the loaf pan (it will be very full). Let as a side dish to sauced main cool until tepid, about 1 hour. Invert courses. But when it is cooled and unmold onto a cutting board, and allowed to firm up, it can and let cool completely, about Wine Pairing be sliced into slabs that can be 2 hours more. Young layered with tomato sauce and Sangiovese To cook the broccoli rabe: Bring a mozzarella, just like lasagna. Some large saucepan of salted water to a people like to serve this as a vegetarian boil over high heat. Add the broccoli rabe main course, but we also serve it cut into and return to a boil. Cook until crisp-tender, small portions as an appetizer. Either way, about 5 minutes. Drain well. “polenta as lasagna” is virtually unknown in Heat the oil with the garlic in a large skillet America, and always sparks a conversation over medium heat until the garlic is fragrant about how delicious it is! The broccoli rabe and softened, about 2 minutes. A handful filling is wonderful, but consider other at a time, stir in the broccoli rabe. Cover the vegetables like grilled eggplant, sautéed skillet and reduce the heat to medium low. mushrooms, or steamed and squeezed-dry Cook, stirring occasionally, until the broccoli spinach. rabe is tender, about 15 minutes. Transfer SERVES 6 to 8 as main course to a colander and let it drain and cool. or 10 to 12 as appetizer Coarsely chop the broccoli rabe and drain again to remove any excess liquid. For the Polenta Meanwhile, to make the sauce: Cook the Extra-virgin olive oil, for oiling the pan onion in oil in a large saucepan over medium 1 teaspoon sea salt heat, stirring often, until the onion is tender 2 cups instant polenta but not browned, about 4 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until it is fragrant, about For the Broccoli Rabe 1 minute. Stir in the hot red pepper flakes, 2 pounds broccoli rabe followed by the puréed tomatoes, and bring 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil to a simmer over high heat. Reduce the 2 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped heat to medium low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has slightly For the Sauce reduced, about 20 minutes. During the last 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, few minutes, stir in the basil. Season to plus more for the baking dish taste with the salt and pepper. 1 small red onion, chopped Position a rack in the center of the oven 2 garlic cloves, minced and preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. 1/4 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes Lightly oil a flameproof 9-inch-by-13-inch baking dish. One 28-ounce can peeled tomatoes in juice, puréed with their juice in a blender
1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh basil Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 pound fresh mozzarella cheese, shredded 1 cup freshly grated ParmigianoReggiano cheese
To cook the polenta: Lightly oil a 9-inchby-5-inch loaf pan. Bring 6 cups of water and the salt to a boil in a medium heavybottomed saucepan over high heat. Slowly whisk in the polenta, making sure the mixture is smooth. Change over to a wooden spoon and stir constantly until the polenta comes to a boil. Cook according to the package directions, stirring often, until smooth and thickened. Spread the polenta
Cut the polenta crosswise into 30 slices about 1/4-inch thick. Arrange 10 of the polenta slices in a single layer in the dish, trimming them as needed to fit the dish and fill in gaps. Top with one-half of the broccoli rabe, followed by one-third each of the sauce, mozzarella, and Parmigiano. Repeat with another layer of polenta, the rest of the broccoli rabe, sauce, mozzarella, and Parmigiano. Finish with the remaining ingredients. (The dish can be covered loosely with plastic wrap and kept at room temperature for up to 2 hours. Remove the plastic wrap before baking.) Place the baking dish on a baking sheet. Bake, uncovered, until the mozzarella is melted and the juices are bubbling, about 50 minutes. Remove from the oven. Position a broiler rack about 8 inches from the source of heat and preheat the broiler on high. Return the dish to the oven and broil just until the mozzarella topping is golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Let stand for 10 minutes. Cut into serving portions and serve hot.
Finally Subscribe Today
A NEWS MEDIA YOU CAN TRUST
Simply no one covers the news like The Epoch Times. We are independent and stand outside of political interests, allowing us to deliver a weekly newspaper with truthful and accurate information you can rely on. Find out why our readers are calling us the alternative to The New York Times. We don’t just cover the news; we give you the facts.
Humanity and Traditional Values In the face of the contemporary media climate, we put forward our commitment to unwavering, truthful reporting. We promote awareness of virtues, strive to reintroduce the beauty of forgotten traditional culture, and aim to positively impact people and society in everything we do. Founded in 2000, The Epoch Times has a presence in 35 countries, providing award-winning newspapers and news platforms with the goal of being the global newspaper of record, with a positive influence on society. The Epoch Times provides critical, in-depth analysis that has often been overlooked by other mainstream media outlets.
Get the award-winning Epoch Times delivered to your door every week.
TRY OUR INTRODUCTORY OFFER $12 for 12 Weeks Only $1 per week ($1.50 thereafter)
VISIT
subscribe.epochtimes.com Offer expires Nov. 15, 2017.
It’s easy to subscribe online, or mail in this form to: The Epoch Times 229 W. 28th St., Floor 5, New York, NY 10001 T. 212-239-2808 TheEpochTimes.com Make all checks payable to: Epoch Times Inc. I authorize my financial institution to draft my account for the established subscription rate. The charge will appear on my bank statement once per month. The renewals will be done at the prevailing retail rate. I agree to notify The Epoch Times in writing of any address change, financial institution change, or account draft.
Name Phone Address Apartment # City
State
Zip
Email Payment Options: ❒ VISA ❒ MC ❒ DS ❒ AX ❒ Check ❒ M/O Credit Card # Expiration Date Credit Card Amount Name on Card Check Amount Cash / Money Order Amount
10
TASTE ITALY
h
Art of the Spritz The
The Shore Leave Spritz, created by Matthew Belanger from Donna in Brooklyn, New York.
he spritz is one of Italy’s iconic drinks, redolent of la dolce vita and sipped during the ephemeral hours between work and dinner. No wonder it’s caught on around the world. In the book “Spritz: Italy’s Most Iconic Aperitivo Cocktail, with Recipes,” Talia Baiocchi and Leslie Pariseau dig into the history and evolution of the drink, along the way offering recipes for regional classics, as well as modern takes.
11
TASTE ITALY
h
ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF TEN SPEED PRESS
Taste Italy: The Spritz is as old as ... Talia Baiocchi and Leslie Pariseau: ... the soda siphon. When soda water was born (and arrived in Italy), the spritz was born. At first, the spritz was simply wine with a “spray” of water, which is what “spritz” means in German. The story goes that Austrians occupying northern Italy during the Habsburg reign in the 19th century watered down the local wines with a spray of water. Eventually, soda water and bitter red aperitivo wines like Aperol, Select, Campari, and others were added to complete the modern spritz architecture. Taste Italy: What kind of daily little rituals are usually associated with having a spritz in Italy? Ms. Baiocchi and Ms. Pariseau: Eating and socializing. The spritz is meant for the in-between moments of the day—the time after work and before dinner or moments stolen on sunny afternoons. The spirit of the spritz is about being social and savoring the 30 minutes or hour that you don’t have to be anywhere. It’s also requisite to eat a little something. In Venice, these accompanying snacks are called cicchetti—little bites like polpette [meatballs] and crostini. But anywhere spritzes are served, so is food, whether it’s a basket of gratis potato chips or a beautiful spread of olives, tramezzini [triangular sandwiches], and nuts. Taste Italy: What are your go-to spritzes? And what little bites would you have with it? Ms. Pariseau: The Punch House Spritz. It’s a universally lovable combination of grapefruit, Lambrusco Rosato, and Cocchi Americano. Ms. Baiocchi: The Safe Passage. A blend of amaro, Aperol, olive brine, lemon, and prosecco, the Safe Passage manages to get savory, bitter, and slightly sweet flavor profiles all in the same glass. Ms. Baiocchi and Ms. Pariseau: We’d both pair this with the typical aperitivo setup—some bright green olives, salty nuts, a pile of prosciutto, some good bread, and olive oil. Recipes reprinted with permission from “Spritz: Italy’s Most Iconic Aperitivo Cocktail, With Recipes” by Talia Baiocchi and Leslie Pariseau. Copyright 2016. Published by Ten Speed Press. All rights reserved.
Leslie Pariseau (L) and Talia Baiocchi.
APEROL SPRITZ
PUNCH HOUSE SPRITZ
3 parts Cinzano Prosecco
2 ounces Cocchi Americano
2 parts Aperol
4 ounces Lini Lambrusco Rosato
1 dash soda
1 ounce fresh grapefruit juice
Ice and a slice of orange
1 ounce soda water
Pour the Prosecco, Aperol, and a dash of soda into an ice-filled balloon wine glass and stir. Garnish with an orange slice.
Build the ingredients in a rocks or wine glass over ice and add a grapefruit halfwheel for garnish.
12
TASTE ITALY
COURTESY OF EMILIA-ROMAGNA TOURISM
Mortadella Bo festival in Bologna.
A truffle hunter and his dog in Alba. DAVIDE DUTTO
Alba is famed for its annual white truffle fair.
Celebrate Like an Italian ood historian Francine Segan has just the tip for you, if you want to get to know Italy—the real Italy. “If it is not your first trip to Italy ... seek out one of these sagras [fairs], these food festivals, because they’re not a tourist event. They’re something locals go to. You will be one of the few Americans,” she said. Whether you’re watching grown adults throw a wheel of cheese around town (that’s right) or participate in a donkey race just to make fun of the adjoining town, you’ll get a real feel for a fun and sometimes humorous side of Italy, all while indulging in that most wonderful pastime—savoring some delicious food. We asked Segan, who’s lectured and written extensively about Italian cuisine, for a few recommendations. Here’s the shortlist:
Ruzzolone: Cheese Throwing
An aged cheese wheel is at the center of ruzzolone, a team sport that falls somewhere between
Chocolate comes in all shapes and sizes at the Eurochocolate festival in Perugia.
COURTESY OF EUROCHOCOLATE
F
Italy’s food festivals offer a window into the quirks of Italian food culture bowling and discus. “What I love is that it’s this really ancient sport,” said Segan of the game that’s practiced year-round in central Italy. Etruscan frescoes, she explained, depict shepherds among their sheep playing ruzzolone, throwing cheese down the slopes. “They had nothing to do so they would start this game, because they all had their cheese round—that would be their food.” Such was the popularity of the game that in 1598, in Emilia-Romagna, the governor placed limits on how much people could bet on games—no more than the value of the cheese, he decreed; and in 1700, the region’s governor restricted public viewing to the weeks between Carnival and Easter only. These days, it is played year-round, though in the summer, teams use a wooden disc instead of a wheel of cheese due to the heat. Wander into the woods and you’ll actually find trails devoted to ruzzolone. With the aid of a rope, a player unleashes the cheese as fast and as
far as possible. With the cheese weighing in at a cool 10 kilograms (or 22 pounds), that’s not exactly an easy feat. The initial challenge is to hurl it on its side so it can actually roll. Segan, who gave it a try, said she did terribly. “It was really heavy. It’s not a convenient 22 pounds. I never got the roll. Mine dribbled.” Does the cheese break sometimes? “Yes, occasionally it breaks, but most times not because it’s pretty hard.” If it does, then it’s divided up and eaten. At Easter time, as Segan once observed in the small town of Panicale, Umbria, near the city of Perugia, when the two local champion teams faced off, everyone came out to witness the show. This time, the game took place not in the woods or the fields, but in the streets, with cars, lamp posts, and all sorts of obstacles standing in the way. The winning team takes home— what else?—the cheese. A big party ensues afterward in the main piazza, with free sandwiches, wine, and pieces of a huge chocolate egg.
13
TASTE ITALY COURTESY OF FRANCINE SEGAN
COURTESY OF FRANCINE SEGAN
town champion, Giuseppe, who had been winning for 12 years straight. Then “they had me play the best kid, who was 12. I lost against him too,” she said. Winner takes the cracked eggs home, and if you’re hungry, all around town, you’ll find pretty colored eggs offered in shops and bars. “The eggs are delicious,” Segan added. “The yolks are a bright orange, the chickens are free-range. They’re fed wonderful stuff.”
A man picks an egg at an annual egg cracking contest. STEFANIA SPADONI
CHEESE THROWING
COURTESY OF FRANCINE SEGAN
Coccin Cocetto: Battle of the Eggs
Apparently, when these souls aren’t throwing cheese, they are cracking eggs. “Coccin cocetto” means “cracking contest” in the local dialect of the northern part of Emilia-Romagna. Some people have been practicing for 60 years—not that long when you consider the game dates back to a couple of millennia ago. Basically, you pick an egg, and your opponent picks another (they’re boiled, by the way). The one designated as the hitter tries to crack the other’s egg. “I thought it was luck,” Segan said. “It isn’t.” It all boils down to technique—for hitting, and holding the egg as well. Either way, you could crack your opponent’s egg and win, or get your egg cracked and lose. Back in medieval times, it was a very serious game—eggs were a precious, and expensive, protein. Segan tried her hand at the game in the hill town of Fanano and lost a dozen eggs, consecutively. Fair enough—she was up against the
Sagra del Pesce di San Fortunato: A Beach Party
Ruzzolone, a team sport that falls somewhere between bowling and discus.
On the second Sunday in May, celebrations honor St. Fortunato, the patron saint of fishermen, and the fishermen themselves. The best party, Segan said, can be found in Camogli, close to Genoa, by the Ligurian Sea. That partly stems from the town’s fanciful trompe l’oeil on many houses’ façades—from ornate painted-on shutters to window frames and flower boxes—that look three-dimensional from afar. It doesn’t hurt either that the main street lies just about 15 feet from the beach. When the Fish Festival of St. Fortunato (Sagra del Pesce di San Fortunato) rolls around, the locals break out the world’s largest frying pan to make a giant fish fry. Everything is free, from the fish to the drinks; there’s even a competition to see who can make the most interesting bonfire.
Fiera del Tartufo: Treasures of the Earth
Taking place during the entire month of October, the famous Alba White Truffle Fair, in Piedmont, is likely to be smelled before it’s even seen. The center of the action takes place in a beautiful tented area, where truffle hunters bring their treasures for judges to assess. As you approach, “you start to get that earthy, wonderful smell. ... Your mouth really waters when you enter,” Segan said. You’ll be greeted by the sight of chefs offering cooking demos and lessons, including on how to shave a truffle to extract “extra pungent aroma.” It’s an occasion to sample truffles dishes and products like truffle honey or truffle chocolate. For a real treat, see if you can go on a simulated truffle hunt so you can see how truffle hunters train their dogs to find the prized fungi. Amazingly, the very soil in which truf-
fles grow—a good three feet underground, in Segan’s experience—smells delicious too. On the occasion of the fair, there’s also a comical donkey race. Its origins go back to an old rivalry with the adjoining town of Asti, known for its production of Asti Spumante wine. In the old days, wine was more expensive than truffles. “Asti has a very prestigious palio [horse race], so to make fun of them, in the Middle Ages, Alba [residents] did a donkey race. Everybody dresses up, making fun of the nouveau riche Asti people,” Segan said.
Eurochocolate: A Chocolate Lover’s Dream
This international chocolate exhibition takes place over 10 days in Perugia, home base of the chocolate company Perugina. The event gets 1 million visitors, and companies from all over Europe, and beyond, participate. “They turn the whole of the town into chocolate spaces,” Segan said. You’ll find chocolate liqueurs, chocolate pastas, artwork made from chocolate, and free chocolate tastings almost everywhere. “It’s a chocolate lover’s dream,” she added. Most of the shops around town partake in the fun. Happen across a shoe shop? It might just have some shoes made of chocolate (now, that would be a dream).
Mortadella Bo: Brides, Street Performers, and Mortadella
Compared to Italy’s ancient and storied food festivals, Bologna’s Mortadella Bo festival is brand new, having only started in 2013. But as of last year, it brought 130,000 visitors over a weekend—including a substantial young crowd in their 20s. Mortadella isn’t new of course. The ground pork sausage has been made since the time of the Romans. During the Middle Ages, “it was so treasured, it was even treated like currency,” Segan said. It now bears PGI (protected geographical indication) status. These days, expect tons of free mortadella slices, dishes with mortadella, mortadella wheel juggling, and mortadella-like frisbees flying overhead in the city and at Europe’s oldest university. Perhaps you’ll catch sight of the Regina Rossa (Pink Queen, a kind of “Miss Mortadella”) and the many brides who decide to get married during the festival.
14
TASTE ITALY
BENJAMIN CHASTEEN/THE EPOCH TIMES (PIZZA); SHUTTERSTOCK (BASIL)
To Cozzolino, the Pizza Diet is more than a diet —it’s a lifestyle.
The
Pizza Diet
The dough’s 48-hour rise time makes this pizza eminently light and digestible —and it’s delicious.
In his book, chef Pasquale Cozzolino tells how he lost 100 pounds eating his favorite food
N
EW YORK—Pasquale Cozzolino lost 100 pounds over seven months—with pizza as the cornerstone of his diet. He used to eat, he said, like a garbage truck, ingesting piles upon piles of food. When he started his diet in September 2015, the 6-foot-6-inch Cozzolino weighed
370 pounds. He had been fit back in Naples, Italy, where he was born and raised. But with the opportunity to immigrate to the United States also came fast food—and large quantities of it. As his triglycerides count shot up to 464, his doctor beseeched him to think of his family.
15
TASTE ITALY PHOTOS BY BENJAMIN CHASTEEN/THE EPOCH TIMES
It’s a Mediterranean diet that makes you happy in the morning when you wake up. Pasquale Cozzolino, Ribalta
COURTESY OF PASQUALE COZZOLINO
“Something has to convince you to start the diet. It all starts in here,” he said, a finger pointing to his head. One summer, as he took off his shirt on a local beach in Napoli, he became self-conscious. “I was enormous. Then I said, I cannot keep this going anymore.” A doctor from his hometown gave him this advice, he recalled: “Put in the center of your diet something that, when you wake up in the morning, you are happy to eat.” For Cozzolino, it was all too obvious: that something was pizza—made famous in his hometown, where there are over 600 pizzerias. When he was young, his family did not have much money; they permitted themselves an outing to a pizzeria once a week, on Saturday nights. “I said, I want to be a pizza-maker one day because I want to eat pizza every day,” the 39-year-old Cozzolino said. He asked his doctor if pizza would work. His doctor said yes, but it couldn’t be just any pizza. Indeed, it’s not just any pizza. Cozzolino is a chef and partner— and of course, pizza-maker—at Ribalta, near Manhattan’s Union Square. The restaurant, often described as an unofficial embassy of sorts for Neapolitans looking to congregate over a taste of home, received an award this year from Italian magazine Gambero Rosso, winning the title of best pizzeria in New York City. Considering how serious Italians are about food, the compliment is not given lightly. Cozzolino fiddled slightly with the
In this photo, the 6-foot-6-inch Pasquale Cozzolino weighed 370 pounds before his pizza diet. He now weighs 271 pounds.
traditional Neapolitan pizza recipe; instead of letting the dough rise for 12 hours, he lets it rise for a whopping 48 hours. “Twelve hours is a decent number,” the chef mused. “Forty-eight is perfection.” As for the average pizzeria in the United States, the rise time is anywhere from three to four hours. Give the dough some time and you can witness the magic of fermentation. In those extra hours, the gluten is broken down, making the pizza light and easy to digest—it doesn’t cause any feelings of bloatedness. The ingredients matter, too: Traditionally, the dough just calls for flour, water, yeast or mother dough, and salt. Cozzolino doesn’t go for the typical, refined “00” flour, but instead imports from Italy his type 1 flour, a coarser, stone-ground flour that retains a substantial amount of fiber. He would love to do a zero-mile pizza some time, sourcing all ingredients locally, as he does for his tomatoes and mozzarella. But because, in his view, the Food and Drug Administration is lax compared to its European counterparts, it’s impossible to tell what additives go into American flour. Also, less scrupulous pizzerias don’t hesitate to add sugar to the dough for a
(Above) Cozzolino preps a Pizza Margherita at Ribalta.
more caramelized color in the pizza, or low-quality oils like canola or palm oil to give it more crispiness. A Mediterranean Diet Cozzolino doesn’t eat just pizza, of course. But it is the centerpiece of his Mediterranean diet. It worked well enough that in seven months, along with a workout regimen, he shed 100 pounds. Looking fit and relaxed, he now weighs 271 pounds. He starts the day off with something simple—eggs or cereal, washed down with coffee; then a snack like a cereal bar at mid-morning; and then pizza for lunch, usually marinara with tomato and garlic because he doesn’t want to eat dairy every day. “There’s millions of recipes where you can have low-calorie pizzas,” he said. His pizza pies are anywhere from 570 to 610 calories. “You can put arugula on top, some lean prosciutto, bresaola.” At 6 p.m., at the latest, he eats dinner: seafood like calamari, salmon, or octopus, with a salad—no carbs—and a glass of red wine. “Once you start this thing, you have a lot of hunger at night,” said Cozzolino, who heads to bed around midnight. To stave off cravings, he advises having a bit of fruit or a little piece of Parmigiano-Reggiano. “It stops you from starving,” he said. “It’s a Mediterranean diet that makes you happy in the morning when you wake up.” If you don’t want pizza every day, well, there’s always pasta, and the same principles can apply. “Spaghetti al pomodoro, spaghetti with tomatoes with a little bit of virgin olive oil—it’s not a big deal. You can lose weight on it,” he said. Well, it’s mighty tempting—but again, the spaghettoni al pomodoro at Ribalta isn’t average either. The Piennolo cherry tomatoes, picked from the fertile volcanic hillsides of Mount Vesuvius, make a delectable tomato sauce. It’s a dish you can easily look forward to having for lunch when you wake up in the morning. Maybe, just maybe, The Spaghetti Diet will be next. Pasquale Cozzolino’s book “The Pizza Diet: How I Lost 100 Pounds Eating My Favorite Food—and You Can Too!” ($15.95, published by Galvanized Books) includes shopping tips, strategies for healthy eating, recipes, a sample meal plan, and a hefty dose of encouragement.
16 CHANNALY PHILIPP/THE EPOCH TIMES; ALL OTHER PHOTOS COURTESY OF FRANCINE SEGAN
TASTE ITALY
La Cucina
A Taste of
Emilia-Romagna Rich in history and tradition, the region of Emilia-Romagna, in the heart of Italy, is a prime destination for food lovers. Here are two recipes: one, a dessert inspired by royal love, the other, a dish conjured out of economic necessity, from food historian Francine Segan.
Food historian and author Francine Segan.
TORTA TENERINA, ITALY’S FLOURLESS CHOCOLATE CAKE This flourless cake, which has a crisp, macaroon-like outer layer and a dense, incredibly moist center, is by far one of the best tasting chocolate desserts I’ve ever tried. As the cake cools, it collapses just a little, creating a pretty webbing on the delicious crust. It’s made with only five ingredients, so be sure to use only quality chocolate, as it really stands out. A must-try classic from Ferrara, a city in Emilia-Romagna. SERVES 8
1 cup granulated sugar 4 eggs, separated 7 ounces dark chocolate, 60 percent cacao or higher 7 tablespoons (3 1/2 ounces) unsalted butter, plus more for the pan 2 tablespoons potato starch or cornstarch
Heat the oven to 350 F. Butter a 9 1/2-inch spring form cake pan. In a large bowl beat 1/2 cup of the sugar with the egg yolks, using a whisk or electric hand mixer, until creamy and light yellow. Put the chocolate into a small bowl and melt, either in the microwave or over a double boiler. Cut the butter into small slices and stir it into the chocolate until
completely melted. Add the warm, but not hot, melted chocolate to the sugar-egg mixture and beat until well combined. Mix in the starch. In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites until they begin to become firm, then add the remaining 1/2 cup sugar and beat until stiff. Gently fold into the batter, a third at a time, and pour the mixture into the prepared pan. Bake for 19 minutes. Not longer! The cake will be soft in the center, so a toothpick will not come out clean. That’s normal. The cake will dry a little as it cools. Allow it to rest for at least 20 minutes before cutting it. Serve warm or at room temperature. Reprinted with permission from “Dolci: Italy’s Sweets” by Francine Segan. Copyright 2011. Published by Stewart, Tabori & Chang. All rights reserved.
CRUNCHY-TENDER OVEN-BAKED PASTA SQUARES (BASOTTI) A contrast in textures, crunchy outside with a soft cheesy center. Basotti is a hallmark dish of cucina familiare, home cooking, that is virtually unknown even in Italy, outside of Emilia-Romagna. To understand the importance of this traditional recipe, you need to go back in time at least 70 years, to when the economic conditions of the people living in Emilia-Romagna were dire. This dish was once made with whatever was on hand: leftover pasta baked at the side of the hearth in a bit of broth, topped with a slice of lardo, if the farmer as lucky enough to have any. Nowadays, they can splurge and put butter and grated Grana Padano cheese on top! This recipe is simple to assemble, but must be made with egg pasta, either fresh or dried. You’ll only need a 1/2 pound of pasta, as egg pasta expands as it bakes and absorbs the cheese and broth. Speaking of broth, since it provides most of the flavor, it’s best to use homemade. SERVES 4
10 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons finely ground breadcrumbs 1/2 pound egg tagliolini or another very thin egg noodle
About 2 cups grated Grana Padano cheese Nutmeg 4 cups rich pork, beef or chicken broth, preferably homemade
Preheat oven to 400 F/200 C. Generously butter an 8 x 15 inch metal baking pan and sprinkle with breadcrumbs. Put half of the uncooked pasta in the pan and top with 5 tablespoons of very thinly sliced butter, 3/4 cup of the grated cheese and 1 tablespoon freshly grated nutmeg. Add the remaining pasta, in a thin scattered layer, on top. Top with another 5 tablespoons of very thinly sliced butter and more nutmeg. Bring the stock to a boil. Ladle over the pasta until just covered. Sprinkle with 3/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until firm to the touch. Raise the oven to 475 F. Top pasta with 1/2 cup grated cheese, and bake for a few minutes until crispy on top. Cut into squares and serve hot. Reprinted with permission from “Pasta Modern: New and Inspired Recipes From Italy” by Francine Segan. Copyright 2013. Published by Stewart, Tabori & Chang. All rights reserved.
26
Celebrating
years of tradition at
GABRIEL’S on the Upper West Side
...minutes away from Jazz at Lincoln Center
At Gabriel’s, it’s all in the family! We’re family-owned and -operated, so you know that our commitment to detail is unparalleled. Being a restaurant with a soul, with real people and genuine, down-to-earth hospitality—not to mention the owner, Gabriel, greeting you warmly by the door—our establishment welcomes your next family occasion to come dine in, whether you are visiting New York, catching a show at Lincoln Center, shopping at Time Warner Center or hosting that special private event. Our menu focuses on traditional Italian fare, all made in-house, from the bread to the sorbet. Book your very own private party room for your next birthday, cocktail gathering, or anniversary event and join us in the celebration of creating memorable traditions.
Gabriel’s Bar & Restaurant 11 W. 60th St., New York, NY 10023 212-956-4600 GabrielsNYC.com
18
TASTE ITALY
S L O W F O OD An unyielding pursuit of excellence makes Emilia-Romagna the birthplace of extraordinary food and exceptional cars
M
ODENA, Italy—In life, there are shortcuts, and then there is the long, hard way around. In Emilia-Romagna, there is an unusual number of people who take the latter. In this corner of Italy, there is a mind-boggling concentration of these souls in different industries. There is a so-called “Food Valley” in the region and also a “Motor Valley.” In the first category, producers of gastronomic jewels ply their trade: traditional balsamic vinegar, prosciutto di Parma, and Parmigiano-Reggiano. On the automotive side, the list of companies headquartered there reads like a who’s who of luxury cars: Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati, Pagani. Ducati is headquartered there, too. Slow food, fast cars—for some, that’s a dream vacation right there. It’s in Emilia-Romagna that I get an epiphany about the word “exceptional.” In conversation, it is interchangeable with “excellent,” “outstanding,” and so on. But the root, from the Latin “excipere” means “to take out.” In a modern world where expediency takes primacy, Emilia Romagna, in a certain respect, is out of this world. At the most humble, quotidian level, look at pasta. In an era when huge factories churn out vast quantities of pasta—where spaghetti are extruded out like yellow curtains— there is an incredible insistence on practicing the art of handmade fresh pasta. Emilia Romagna is where delightful morsels—whether tortellini hiding savory fillings of mortadella, Parmigiano-Reggiano and prosciutto di Parma, or capellaci filled
with pumpkin—beckon and whisper, “Just one more, one more!” The Food In the era of pre-refrigeration, preserving food was a prime concern— what to do with that excess of rich milk in the Po Valley, for example? The Benedictine and Cistercian monks who created irrigation ditches throughout the valley, making cattle-grazing possible, turned that milk into a hard cheese with a granular texture that just got better as it matured: Parmigiano-Reggiano. The ingredients now are the same as they were then: milk, salt, and rennet. And although there is now some mechanization in the process— machines are used to turn over the 80-pound cheese wheels during the maturation process—much of it is still done by hand. But when the milk arrives in the morning, it’s still experienced cheesemakers who handle it, mixing and breaking the curds by hand in large copper vats using a traditional tool called a “spino,” then forming them into wheels by placing them in molds. Quality control is still done with age-old tools: a tiny hammer, a probe, and simply a great deal of experience, listening, and smelling. No electronics here. What happens when you take a shortcut in making Parmigiano-Reggiano is all too obvious, with the advent of so many “Parmesans” around the world, often grated beyond recognition, with cellulose—wood pulp, in other words—added to prevent clumping. Needless to say, the flavor is completely different. One variety found on American shelves tastes like cheddar. Many have attributed the cheese’s
Barrels of balsamic vinegar at Acetaia Malagoli Daniele.
Pagani's latest creation, the Huayra Roadster. COURTESY OF PAGANI
19
TASTE ITALY CHANNALY PHILIPP/THE EPOCH TIMES
CHANNALY PHILIPP/THE EPOCH TIMES
I want to build a car that’s faster than all of them, and then I want to die. Enzo Ferrari, founder, Ferrari
CHANNALY PHILIPP/THE EPOCH TIMES
The Formula One Hall of Champions at the Ferrari Museum in Maranello. (Top left) Monica Parisi shows how to roll out pasta dough at one of Italy Food Nest's classes in Bologna. inimitable flavor to the cows’ diet. The producers have been uncompromising in this regard. Umberto Panini, the founder of Hombre, which produces organic Parmigiano-Reggiano, long thought of creating a closed-cycle organic farm, where the feed could be grown, cows raised and milked, and cheese made—the only way to ensure that the cows could get the proper diet they needed. One uncompromising point is that the cows used to make Parmigiano-Reggiano do not eat silage—fermented hay, from grass kept in silos—and this is true of only 3 percent of milk production in the European Union. It makes for happier, healthier cows, as fermented feed can harbor certain nefarious bacteria that affect the final flavor, and can also lead to cheeses cracking and exploding during the aging process. Many other cheeses, which use milk from cows fed on silage, resort to adding preservatives to offset the possibility of cracks and explosions. Parmigiano-Reggiano is just one example. If patience is a virtue, the makers of traditional balsamic vin-
SAMIRA BOUAOU/THE EPOCH TIMES
egar in the provinces of Modena and Reggio Emilia must be saints: The vinegar must be aged at least 12 years, and to claim the “extra vecchio” gold cap, it must be aged between 20 and 25 years. Throughout the seasons, tempered by climate extremes of summer and winter, while acquiring different notes from being moved successively between barrels made of different woods, that vinegar has acquired legendary status as a cure-all. Viscous and complex, this is not balsamic vinegar to be thrown on salad, but to transform strawberries, Parmigiano-Reggiano, meats, and ice cream. The Cars Emilia Romagna’s Motor Valley is known for its car museums, including two dedicated to Ferrari—one in Modena that focuses on the life of the company’s colorful founder, Enzo Ferrari, and the other in Maranello, which features a Formula One Hall of Champions, an audio booth where you can hear the purr and roar of different engines, and an F1 simulator, offering an intense enough 15-minute experience that those who try it out often leave dripping in sweat.
Renato Brancaleoni ages cheeses underground in haylined pits in the small town of Roncofreddo. But it’s through looking back at Enzo Ferrari’s life that you get a sense of the ambition and drive that propelled Ferrari. A quote printed in one of the rooms reads “La migliore Ferrari mai costruita à la prossima,” or in essence, “The best Ferrari ever made is the one which is yet to be built.” See Food and Cars on p.20
20
TASTE ITALY CHANNALY PHILIPP/THE EPOCH TIMES
CHANNALY PHILIPP/THE EPOCH TIMES
The Hombre farm, on the outskirts of Modena, is home to the Umberto Panini Collection, featuring many models of Maserati cars. It also makes excellent organic Parmigiano-Reggiano. Food and Cars continued from p.19 Winning race cars were often cannibalized for parts, and relatively few limited editions are out there. Ferrari himself, later in life, bemoaned not keeping a version of every limited edition that he put out. Left to his own devices, Ferrari would have focused on only producing prototypes. “I should like to put something new into my cars every morning—an inclination that terrifies my staff,” he once said.
Everything had to come together as if it was a car carved out of a block of Carrara marble. Horacio Pagani, founder, Pagani And then, there’s Pagani. If there’s a carmaker that exhibits that special X-factor, this is it. If it is not a household name, it is probably due to its exclusivity: Only about 50 cars are produced a year, each customized for clients. Its latest model, the Huayra Roadster, has a base price of 2.28 million euros ($2.69 million). Designed with sinuous curves, a liquid silhouette that seems to slice the air, and the ability to achieve a lateral force of 1.8G, the Huayra incorporates a new composite material, carbo-titanium, that is more advanced than those used for Formula One cars, giving it an incredibly lightweight build,
at 1,218 kilograms (2,685 pounds). If you have your eye on that Huayra Roadster, sorry: They are all already sold out, even though they haven’t all been made yet. Horacio Pagani worked at Lamborghini in the ‘80s. He had an obsession with lightweight construction and a vision for the use of carbon fiber, a material lighter and stronger than stainless steel. Lamborghini didn’t see a future in composite construction and told him so; around the same time, Ferrari released the F40, made of composite materials. Pagani eventually went his own way in the early ‘90s and embarked on his enterprise. When you visit the Pagani atelier in San Cesare sul Panaro, outside Modena, it’s nothing like a car factory: It is airy, light, and designed like an Italian town square, with little workshops along the edge, original streetlights, and even a bell tower. In his principles, Pagani has been heavily influenced by his studies of Leonardo da Vinci, who united art and science, and the perfection of form and function at every stage. And, almost unbelievably, every part of Pagani cars is made by hand and assembled by hand. And so it is—of so much of Emilia-Romagna—uncompromising in its pursuit of perfection. You can taste its cheeses and vinegars anywhere in the world; you can drive its supercars anywhere in the world. But to understand its mindset, nothing compares to a visit. Go for test drives, linger over a glass of wine and antipasti. This is Emilia-Romagna.
CHANNALY PHILIPP/THE EPOCH TIMES
The Military Academy of Modena, located in the Palazzo Ducale, stands at the historic center of the city. CHANNALY PHILIPP/THE EPOCH TIMES
Pumpkin cappellacci at La Trattoria Le Nuvole, a specialty of Ferrara.
Emilia Romagna
IS THE REASON YOU GO TO ITALY CULTURE • FOOD & WINE • CARS • WELLNESS Emilia Romagna is a region in northern Italy, extending from the Apennine mountains to the Po river in the north. Its rich culture has constructed much of what Italy is loved for —refined cities, cars, rich gastronomy, and wellness. Find out what you missed the last time you went to Italy:
VISIT EMILIAROMAGNATURISMO.COM
22
TASTE ITALY
Nestled in a lovely Alpine valley, a working farm harbors a surprise: the Michelin-starred La PrĂŠsef
FROM FARM AND FIELD to the Table
M
ANTELLO, Italy—At the Michelinstarred restaurant La Preséf, the raw ingredients don’t have to travel far—just a few hundred feet from field to table. That’s because La Preséf is located on a working farm and agriturismo, La Fiorida, nestled in the Italian Alps. Although you’d never guess from its rustic charm, open skies, and mountain views, the estate is only one hour away from Milan. With an eye toward a “zero-kilometer” food philosophy, the agriturismo not only maintains a garden, greenhouses, and a little “forest of berries,” but also raises goats, cows, and pigs, with a strong emphasis on their well-being. Cheeses such as Valtellina Casera and Bitto, made in summer pastures from the grassfed cows’ milk, are aged on the premises. Guests can stay here year-round, and whether they spend their time relaxing at the spa or via hiking trails, they work up a healthy appetite that is richly rewarded. In the morning, a resplendent buffet spread awaits: enticing cakes and homemade cheeses, all entirely too tempting and delicious not to indulge in. Evenings can be devoted to fine dining at La Présef, where chefs Gianni Tarabini and Franco Aliberti helm the kitchen and work their magic to present flavors of the terroir. Just recently, they were honored as Artisans of Taste, or Artigiani del Gusto, at the food congress Identità Golose Milano. We caught up with them to chat about their philosophy and creative process. Taste Italy: What is your cooking philosophy? Gianni Tarabini: I am a food artisan, loyal to my customers. I love transforming the raw ingredients produced just a few steps from my kitchen. The dairy and the slaughterhouse of La Fiorida are my pantry. The tradition and history of our territory constitute the strength of my cuisine. I would like to define my cuisine as emotional. Emotion is the main ingredient of my life, and it’s natural for me to share it as I think about and create our menu, which is inspired by the ethic of respect for
23
TASTE ITALY
the quality of the food. Franco Aliberti: My type of cuisine is a path, a journey into the territory, with a controlled explosion of the senses.
ALL PHOTOS BY CHANNALY PHILIPP/THE EPOCH TIMES
A resplendent buffet awaits in the morning.
Taste Italy: With chef Gianni being from Valtellina in the north of Italy, and chef Franco from Pompeii, in the south, how does this dynamic play out in your creative process and working together?
I love transforming the raw ingredients produced just a few steps from my kitchen.
Chefs Gianni Tarabini (L) and Franco Aliberti.
Chef Gianni Tarabini
Mr. Tarabini and Mr. Aliberti: The exchange of ideas characterizes La Fiorida and La Preséf. Our encounter has brought into contact our two temperaments and two characters. They mirror our respective birth regions and, just like them, appear to be far from each other. But we already had an important root in common: the desire to give voice to the tradition and deep roots of the products in this territory. Telling their stories stimulates our curiosity as we read them and rewrite them, as much as for our guests when they listen to and taste them. See La Fiorida on p.24
Cows’ milk is used to make two variety of cheeses unique to the area: Valtellina Casera and Bitto.
24
TASTE ITALY
La Fiorida continued from p.23 In this journey, Gianni represents the tangibility of memories of places like La Fiorida, and is most familiar with the particular products, preparations, and legends of the Valtellina Alps and Lake Como, while Franco is the Peter Pan of the kitchen, driven by unstoppable playfulness toward continuous, playful experimentation. Taste Italy: What does the process of putting together a menu look like, given so much of your ingredients come from the farm? Do all products come from the farm? Mr. Tarabini: Almost all the raw materials come from fields, from the garden, from the stable, from the dairy, or from La Fiorida’s agricultural factory. We use local suppliers characterized by the quality of their products, but above all by the same respect and love for the territory, the animals, and concern for food safety. Each dish is inspired by a “mountain” tangibility, sometimes irresistible in flavor, but always pure: for this reason, [most] consist of up to four products, so that the taste of each ingredient can be traced throughout its personality.
freddo heart, and the moss accompanying it was a cultivated edible special moss, crystallized with sugar. Taste Italy: Please you tell us about a couple of dishes that you offer at La Preséf that visitors should be sure to try. Mr. Aliberti: Two dishes always surprise those who taste them. These are two particularly charismatic creations that reveal the character of La Preséf, linked to the simplicity of the products, but also the experience of stories and emotions that chef Gianni Tarabini recalls most affectionately from his childhood. Mr. Tarabini: [One is] Gnocco [dumpling] with mountain potatoes, young Bitto cheese, whipped butter, misultin fish from Lario, and lemon rind, which tells of the roots of Gianni Tarabini and La Fiorida, between Val Gerola and Alto Lago di Como. [The other is] “The Dream and the Emotion” ... the egg stolen from the chicken coop, Sacco potatoes, Bitto fondue, and the truffle from Costiera dei Cech, from which the palate recalls, with a mature touch, the innocent gesture of a child who steals the just-laid egg in the chicken coop from his grandmother’s hen.
IF YOU GO... La Fiorida Via Lungo Adda 23016 Mantello (SO) Italy +39 0342 680846 LaFiorida.com/en
SHUTTERSTOCK
Taste Italy: Please tell us about the eggs you use—the Uovo di Selva (“eggs from the forest”). Mr. Tarabini: We chose to use an unusual and truly natural egg in our dishes. The Uovo di Selva does not come from the chickens from our henhouse, but from the woods in the Orobie Alps. It reflects the characteristics and taste of the eggs I had as a child, just laid by my grandmother’s chicken. The Uovo di Selva is an organic egg produced in Valtellina, in a chestnut wood at 600 meters above sea level, from hens [that roam freely] all day long in the woods, where they are offered a night shelter to protect them from predators and the cold of winter. Every day, the eggs are collected in the nests that the hens have built in the woods and delivered to us within 24 hours. Mr. Aliberti: It’s not only what is raised or cultivated that comes to our table. There are natural elements typical of the surroundings around La Fiorida. Our guests can find on their plates honed river stones and moss. [For a dessert,] we made a copy of the stones with a layer of striated chocolate, encompassing a creamy semi-
The entrance to the La Fiorida agriturismo.
A staff member demonstrates how cheese is made. First the milk is heated, and then rennet is added. The resulting curds are broken up and gathered in a cloth and pressed into a mold. (Bottom right) Bitto is a local cheese, made only in summer, when cows graze the pasture.
TASTE ITALY Spectacular views of the Italian Alps soothe the spirit, while on-site spa services pamper the body. Various massages are offered as well as aromatic baths— with Valtellina wine, milk, whey, cocoa, or even hay.
A dish of impossibly tender suckling pig at La PrĂŠsef.
25
26
TASTE ITALY
Getting Fresh
With Mozzarella
N
APLES, Italy—Mozart’s symphonies, massages on demand, and showers giving a fine mist on hot days—these amenities might not sound out of place at a spa. But on a buffalo farm? Well, that’s a different story.
It was on a trip through the Italian region of Campania that a fellow traveler insisted that I not only had to try some mozzarella from Tenuta Vannulo, an organic farmstead, but also bring some back home. It was his plan, and it should be my plan, too, he said. I would be a hero in the eyes of friends and family. The Vannulo estate is only a 15-minute drive from the ancient Greek ruins of Paestum, and it’s a must-visit for food lovers. It draws tourists from all over, but on this spring morning, with brisk traffic in and out of the parking lot, the lilt of Italian could be heard everywhere. Stepping out of the vehicle and onto the farm in Capaccio, there was no bovine in sight, but my nose told me they were there. A gamey, wild smell, touched with wetness, mud, and hay, yanked me out of my reverie. Dozens of visitors lined up at the
shop that sold buffalo mozzarella by the pound. In another building, staff at the popular gelato and yogurt shop attended to the hungry. Buffalo milk yogurt was offered in flavors ranging from apricot to strawberry. It was intriguing, leaving a dry, slightly gamey aftertaste. A few steps away, a guide pointed visitors to a glass window. On the other side, men in white, working in pairs, dipped their bare hands into a pool of cloudy water in a stainless steel tank, and pulled on a long, white elastic substance, forming balls out of it. Outside, a guide brought some samples, little shiny white balls marked with just the tiniest knob where it had been pulled away. In another part of the farm, the buffalo stood together in a corral, placid and curious, sleek in their black coats, looking at their human visitors with gentle eyes.
Milk curds, before being stretched into mozzarella.
It turns out that at Vannulo, these animals lead a charmed life, pampered by massages and soothed by classical music from 7 to 9 every morning. They are milked only when they want to be. Sophisticated machinery recognizes the microchipped buffalo when it enters the milking area, and with the aid of a laser, finds the udder and starts milking. Each buffalo is milked two or three times a day, until it meets its two-gallon milk quota. By comparison, dairy cows produce about eight gallons a day. It was only later that I learned that Vannulo’s “zero kilometer” mozzarella is legendary and is only sold at the farm. Vannulo’s production is very limited, yielding only 300 kilograms (about 661 pounds) of mozzarella per day. Italian chefs and restaurateurs I met on my return to New York sung its praises: “It’s the best!” One chef pulled
27
TASTE ITALY ALL PHOTOS BY CHANNALY PHILIPP/THE EPOCH TIMES
Beethoven’s “Pastoral” Symphony No. 6, anyone?
Are we done here? I need to go get my massage.
me aside and whispered, “After Vannulo, everything else is garbage!” That may have been an exaggeration—but true enough, a bite of Vannulo’s mozzarella is a revelation. In a bite, the ball bursts with flavors of milk, hay, and grass, and tastes incredibly fresh and pure. And then after you’ve eaten it, the taste—that milkiness with that slight touch of game and hay— lingers and lingers and lingers. It is nothing like those rubber ball-like things that try to pass themselves off as mozzarella.
When the buffalo lives well, she produces a higher quality milk, which helps to make the most delicious mozzarella. Barbara Guerra, Le Strade della Mozzarella When you eat it straight off the farm, it’s as fresh as it comes. Italians who get the mozzarella directly from the producer don’t even store it in the fridge—it would ruin the texture—but leave it in the brining liquid at room temperature.
Mozzarella Matters Two Italians based in Paestum, Barbara Guerra and Albert Sapere, have endeavored to shine a spotlight on mozzarella with a yearly conference called LSDM, Le Strade della Mozzarella, or The Many Roads of Mozzarella. Their goal is to raise awareness about high-quality Italian food products. The first conference took place in 2008, with just about three or four chefs hailing from Campania. It has since gone international with over 50 chefs. This year was the first time that the conference came to the United States, taking place in Manhattan late last month. One year renowned chef Massimo Bottura made a dish called The North That Wanted to Become the South. It featured a pizza, traditionally from the south, made with a crust of dehydrated polenta, topped with a “sauce” of risotto made with buffalo mozzarella. (Rice and polenta are considered northern Italian ingredients.) Guerra remembers being at Vannulo and hearing music being played for the buffalo. “I think that at the moment the most interesting approach is precisely linked to the animal’s welfare. When the buffalo lives well, she produces a higher quality milk, which helps to make the most delicious mozzarella,” she said. In addition to Campania, buffalo mozzarella is also produced in several
A few of the pampered water buffaloes at Tenuta Vannulo near Paestum.
Stretching the curds gives mozzarella its elasticity.
other parts of Italy, including Lazio, Puglia, and Molise. Each has its own terroir and its own taste. Guerra said: “In my experience, I can say that Italian foodies, and in general the most discerning consumers not only often do have their own preference for a mozzarella made in a given area rather than another, but they even have preferred producers, too.” In America, buffalo mozzarella presents a couple of challenges. One is that while mozzarella should be eaten as fresh as possible—within five days, she said. “Unfortunately, due to the long trip [to North America] and to the times of the supply chain, the risk is that it gets on the American tables when it is no more at its best,” according to Guerra. Another challenge is one common to many Italian products—authenticity. “There are so many products on sale here which have ‘mozzarella’ written on their labels, but don’t have anything in common with the original Mozzarella di Bufala Campana. Unfortunately, this contributes creating a huge confusion amongst American consumers,” Guerra said. Bringing It Home If you are visiting Italy, you can bring some mozzarella back to the United States—it’s legal and you don’t have to hide it. Just make sure it’s packed in the brine it came in, and keep it in your checked luggage, not carry-on. After my visit to Vannulo, I stashed Caprese a Styrofoam chest full of zero-kilomsalad of eter mozzarella into my luggage—and fresh boy, did it take it some space. But the mozzarella, look of wonder when family memtomatoes, bers took that first bite was worth it. and basil—a Their mouths were full but their eyes classic said it: It was the best they’d ever had. combination.
28
TASTE ITALY LUKASZ SZWAJ/SHUTTERSTOCK
Discovering
Italian Wines
N
EW YORK—There used to be a time when whenever someone brought up the subject of Italian wine, the most immediate association was Chianti—and, by and large, it is still that way. And yet, how much wider is the world of Italian wines: Over 500 native grape varietals have been documented, with likely hundreds more growing undiscovered or unnoticed in vineyards. For advice on discovering some of Italy’s top wines, we turned to Giuseppe Bruno, owner of the fine dining restaurants Sistina and Caravaggio in Manhattan. He has been collecting wines for the past 35 years, and between restaurants and warehouses, he’s got up to 80,000 bottles. At Sistina, go downstairs and you might see a glass cabinet
with shelves full of wine bottles; one of the lower shelves hides a secret latch. One touch, and the cabinet swings open to reveal a cozy cellar filled with 10,000 bottles. These are looked after by sommelier Renzo Rapacioli, who has overseen wine lists at some of Manhattan’s top restaurants, and assistant sommelier Nestor Torres.
Faced with a wine list so long it is literally a book, no wonder most of Sistina’s guests put themselves in the sommeliers’ hands. And so do we. If you’re looking for some exceptional Italian wines, here are some of their recommendations. (If you thought it would be hard to pick just six from their vast and excellent selection, you were right.)
(L–R) Sommelier Renzo Rapacioli, owner Giuseppe Bruno, and assistant sommelier Nestor Torres at Sistina in Manhattan.
TASTE ITALY Gaja Gaia & Rey Chardonnay DOC 2014 The gold-standard winery Gaja, located in the Langhe district of the Piedmont region, has long been popular for its Barbaresco. But what’s lesser known is that about 10 to 15 years ago, the family started producing Chardonnay for its own personal use. The quantities are quite limited. Named after producer Angelo Gaja’s oldest daughter Gaia, who is now the fifth generation to run the winery, and his grandmother Clotilde Rey, it’s reminiscent of a white Burgundy and ages beautifully. This full-bodied, elegant wine comes from Gaja’s first Chardonnay vineyard, planted in 1979.
Renieri Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2010 This Sangiovese wine was rated one of the best Brunellos of 2010. Wine critic James Suckling called it “breathtaking,” giving it a 100 rating, while Wine Spectator found it reminiscent of a fine Burgundy. You can expect big flavor but with a soft finish, says Rapacioli.
Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Masseto Toscana IGT 1996 This one is known as the Pétrus of Italy. The beauty of Italian Merlot is captured in this 1996 vintage from Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, with a bold and structured profile. Rapacioli recommends pairing it with red meat, perhaps veal if the accompanying sauce is on the heartier side.
29
Falletto di Bruno Giacosa ‘Le Rocche del Falletto di Serralunga d’Alba’ Barolo DOCG 2001 The winemaking philosophy of Bruno Giacosa, one of Italy’s best producers of Barolos, encompasses both a respect for tradition and select use of modern technology. The Falletto di Serralunga d’Alba vineyard is where some of the greatest Barolos come from. This wine is garnet red in color, with rose, ripe fruit, truffle, and spice notes and a long finish.
Dal Forno Romano Monte Lodoletta Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2003 Located just east of Verona in the Veneto region, Romano Dal Forno is situated in the Val d’Illasi, an area that catches sun and heat and is dedicated to wine and olive oil production. The intense flavor of this Amarone della Valpolicella is derived from not only three indigenous varietals—Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara—but also the process whereby the grapes are dried for three months before being pressed. One hundred kilograms of grapes (220 pounds) are used to make just 15 liters of wine (15.85 quarts). Meditate on its subtle hints of black cherry, blueberry, and chocolate, and nuanced finish of truffle, tobacco, and new leather.
Marchesi Antinori Tignanello 2010 Toscana IGT This ruby red Tignanello comes from the Antinori family, which has been involved in winemaking for six centuries, since 1385. The Tenuta Tignanello estate has been a lab of sorts for the Antinoris, and this bottle was one of the first wines to be considered a Super Tuscan—that is, a wine using nonindigenous grapes, such as, in this case, 80 percent Sangiovese, 10 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5 percent Cabernet Franc. This Tignanello features notes of red fruit, raspberry, and licorice, with a balancing acidity and savory mineral notes.
Torres and Rapacioli stand by the entrance door to Sistina’s cellar.
SHUTTERSTOCK (ILLUSTRATIONS); ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/THE EPOCH TIMES
30
TASTE ITALY
The village of Anversa degli Abruzzi, population 350.
Land of
Milk & Honey These humble cheeses from Abruzzo, Italy, could be the best cheeses you’ve never had
F
ourteen years ago, the villagers of Anversa degli Abruzzi, Italy, population 350, witnessed the debarkation of 13 Americans and 42 pieces of luggage. “We basically invaded this village,” said Bob Marcelli, whose grandparents hailed from there. In 1916 his grandfather left the poor, depressed Abruzzo region for America and never came back. “Why did you leave?” Bob remembers asking his grandfather. “He looked at me [and said] ‘To eat.’” Anversa is only 75 miles east of Rome, but in a sense it is worlds away, perched on a rock outcrop overlooking the Gorges of Sagittarius, and sandwiched between the Abruzzo and Mount Maiella National Parks. The village counts two churches, a pharmacy, two bars, a store that sells tobacco, and a bank that opens infrequently. Bob estimates the median age to be about 60; people often left Anversa to seek a better life and usually never came back. On the occasion of their first ancestral trip to Anversa, the American
31
TASTE ITALY LEOKS/SHUTTERSTOCK (VILLAGE); ALL OTHER PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/THE EPOCH TIMES
All in family (L–R): Marcelli Formaggi co-owners Andy Marcelli, Christina Marcelli, and Bob Marcelli, in Montclair, N.J.
The fragrant honeys, from sunflower to cherry to chestnut, are simply splendid.
Marcellis were welcome with open arms by the Italian Marcellis. Of the 300-plus inhabitants, Bob jokes that the family is related to about half of them. This is “Marcelli Kingdom,” as his daughter Christina calls it. Bob met his cousin Nunzio, who was running an agriturismo and making cheese from sheep’s milk. Bob, a self-described “recovering chef,” (he was a 1990 James Beard Foundation Rising Chef) was intrigued. “We tasted the cheese and I said, ‘Oh. You don’t make cheese. You make cheese.’ I was completely blown away by the quality of the flavor and the variety.” It took about the better part of two years for Bob to convince his Italian relatives that they could make a go of exporting their raw milk sheep’s cheeses to the United States. They now do business under the company name of Marcelli Formaggi, with a warehouse in Montclair, N.J. They are humble cheeses to be
A selection of products from Marcelli Formaggi, all from the Abruzzo region.
sure—mostly pecorino and ricotta— evoking at first sight nothing but the memory of ho-hum mass produced commercial versions and maybe at worst, some uneasy memories of chalky textures. The family’s smoked ricotta is a modest thing: a white, vaguely dome-ish shape, with traces of ridges left from the baskets where they were aged. But lo, one bite is enough to dispel middling expectations: this cheese is truly transcendent. Chef Marc Forgione has said of these cheeses: “Each bite tastes like Abruzzo. If you close your eyes while you eat it, you can actually see the sheep!” The sheep! There are 1,300 sheep of the local ancient Soppravizzano breed gainfully employed by the Parco Produce cooperative, which Nunzio co-founded, grazing on mountain grasses and over more than 120 types of wild herbs and flowers. See Marcelli on p.32
32
TASTE ITALY SAMIRA BOUAOU/THE EPOCH TIMES
1
Some of the cheeses imported by Marcelli Formaggi from the Abruzzo region
2
3
4
8
7 6
This ancient breed produces just about one-fifth of what a conventional breed produces. Bob compares it to driving a car that gets 2 miles per gallon versus 50 miles a gallon. Why on earth would you opt for a less productive breed? “It’s a whole concept of respecting tradition, preserving history. At one time in Abruzzo there were 3 million of these kinds of sheep and today there are a couple hundred thousand,” he said. Their constitution is hardier. “They’re really bred for that kind of environment,” Bob said. A few times a year, sheep, dogs, shepherds, and guests at the agriturismo partake in the “transumanza,” or “crossing the land,” a centuries-old tradition where sheep are herded between lowlands and highlands. By car, it would take an hour; on foot it takes about three days. The sheep are slow and besides, are busy munching on the herbs underfoot along the way—mint and fennel and juniper and thyme. The Cheeses The words to describe the Marcelli family’s smoked ricotta come to me as pure and innocent—a clean milki-
ness perfumed ever so slightly by the juniper wood smoke. The ricotta passita (or dried passita) is covered with the mountainside herbs that the sheep feast on, such as rosemary, thyme, sage, and for good measure, some pepperoncino. This version almost made me weep with happiness. It is that good: creamy, intense, pungent, spicy, alive. And then for a palate jolt, there’s the bright-red pepperoncino ricotta (a chefs’ favorite). Another incredible cheese is the organic Pecorino Gregoriano, a cheese made by Nunzio’s neighbor Gregorio, half an hour away. First of all, it is a soft pecorino, and second, it is buttery and funky. And what about the Pecorino di Parco? Nutty, rich, slightly crumbly, and only slightly salty. Made from raw organic cow’s milk. the remarkable Caciocavallo Podolico Colantuono is made by Carmelina Colantuono, a fourth-generation cheesemaker and one of the few women Italian cheesemakers. Known as the “Last Cow Girl” in Italy, she shepherds the cows on horseback during their annual transumanza. Restaurants such as Del Posto, Maialino, and Locanda Verde have
COURTESY OF MARCELLI FORMAGGI
Marcelli continued from p.31
5
(clockwise from top L): 1. Pecorino Gregoriano. 2. Caciocavallo Podolico Colantuono. 3. Ricotta Peperoncino. 4. Ricotta Passita. 5. Pecorino di Parco. 6. Pecorino Brigantaccio. 7. Smoked Ricotta al Fumo di Ginepro (Juniper). 8. Ricotta with chives.
Hardworking sheep busy earning their keep.
ADOPT-A-SHEEP
Not only does the “adopt-a-sheep” gift set support farming traditions, but “adopters” also receive a variety of Marcelli products, cozy wool socks, an adoption certificate (name your sheep!), and 20 percent off the first night of a farm stay. COURTESY OF MARCELLI FORMAGGI
served the cheeses from Marcelli Formaggi—and the majority of the time not cooked into dishes—heavens, no—but simply cut and served as they are. If there can be any improvement on the cheeses, it would be to pair them with honeys made from the same region, such as sunflower honey, chestnut honey, cherry honey—the sweet liquid gold made from the same flowers that the sheep so love. These days, the word is getting out about Anversa. And often in the same breath as “cheese,” all for good reason. Gift sets available, as well as olive oil, pastas, and sauces from Abruzzo. MarcelliFormaggi.com. Cheeses can also be found at Eataly.
33
TASTE ITALY
How to Make Award-Winning Sodas and Frozen Treats:
Start With the Water
IMINI, Italy—The journey to making La Galvanina’s award-winning sodas and iced treats starts deep underground—with the water. This Italian company based in Rimini, on the Adriatic Coast, was founded in 1901 to bottle the mineral water that bubbled up from the picturesque hills of Covignano, at a not-so-secret spot that the ancient Romans knew about 2,000 years ago. Over a gentle journey that spans more than 30 months, these waters make their way from the Apennine Mountains. Where they emerge is known as one of the oldest mineral water springs in Europe. Through four generations and two world wars, the Mini family has looked after the area and collected the waters that bubble up through the porous bedrock, filtered and richly mineralized in the most natural way: by building sedimentation chambers and guiding the water to the bottling factory with gravity only. Walking through the sloping tunnels toward the spring, where one has to duck every now and then, I was struck by the eerie quietness. There was no movement save for the gentle bubbling and the unseen flow of the water through shiny pipes, from the collection chambers to the factory some yards downhill. And save, perhaps, for the water nymphs that may preside here or tend over the historic Fountain of Love located above ground, a popular spot for couples to come drink and seek blessings. La Galvanina has bottled the waters here for years—some under its own name, many under a private label.
It’s only been more recently that Rino Mini, its president and CEO, has taken the company in a new direction, venturing into the drinks and frozen treats business—with the gently effervescent mineral water as their base. It’s a business decision that would leave many scratching their heads. Why use mineral water when you could simply turn on the tap? And as for sourcing the fruit, there’s an almost defiant determination to use only the best possible—organic, handpicked at the peak of ripeness, and only from the region that can grow the tastiest. For citrus, for example, that means Sicily. The fruits have a thick pith that protects the pulp, Mini explained to me over lunch at his office, but it’s also more than that. By way of illustration, Mini picked up a huge Sicilian lemon from the table and offered me a slice, knowing I’d think the pith would be bitter. To my surprise, it was sweet and fragrant— that, too, it turns out, is used to make the soda. It reminded me of the whiffs I caught as I walked through the soda factory—that time, it must have been clementine soda being made— unmistakable in its sweetness. Later, when I tasted the soda, it was like the essence of clementine fruit, captured and bottled. Among the frozen treat products is the Lolly, a type of sorbetto-on-astick made in small batches by hand with that very same mineral water and organic fruit. Though available in several flavors, the best is the classic, original lemon Lolly, refreshing and with an aroma so floral you’d
Only organic fruits, handpicked at their ripest, are used in La Galvanina’s sodas and iced treats. SAMIRA BOUAOU/THE EPOCH TIMES; ALL OTHER PHOTOS COURTESY OF LA GALVANINA
The sodas make refreshing cocktails or mocktails.
La Galvanina’s president and CEO, Rino Mini, with different flavors of Lolly, “sorbetto-on-a-stick.” Four generations of the family have been involved in the company since its founding in 1901. think lemon flowers had gone into the mix. This year, the Organic Blood Orange flavor won a Specialty Outstanding Food Innovation (sofi) award from the Specialty Food Association. The Lollys are now available to purchase through Fresh Direct. Another award winner is the company’s Blood Orange, Black Carrot, and Blueberry organic soda. They’re well worth seeking out. In a world where cheaper and more convenient sourcing is common, La Galvanina takes the opposite road. To borrow from poet Robert Frost, that makes all the difference.
34
TASTE ITALY CANADASTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK
STEVEN JENKINS A former master buyer at Fairway and the James Beard Awardwinning author of “Cheese Primer,” Jenkins runs Steve Jenkins Imports. PHOTO BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/THE EPOCH TIMES
Italy
Is for Food Lovers There’s certainly no shortage of terrific food in Italy. I asked a few people who have spent a lot of time eating in the country—so much so that some ended up marrying Italians—about their favorite food experiences. They regaled me with some choice morsels, and though these are just food for thought, don’t be surprised if they have you packing your bag for a visit. Viva l’Italia!
MICHAEL WHITE Chef and partner of Altamarea Group, White is a James Beard Award winner and has earned multiple Michelin stars. PHOTO BY EVAN SUNG
As you can imagine, Italy holds a very special place in my heart. I have so many fond memories there, many of which deal with food. The first time I had tagliatelle Bolognese in Bologna was a truly ethereal moment. I mean, the pasta was handmade just that morning and the Bolognese
made from fresh, braised meats. Something so simple, yet so amazing and delicious.I know I will never have that moment again. Speaking of pasta, the first time I went on a hunt for truffles and then had the chance to shave those truffles over homemade pasta, is a moment I will never forget. They have these
JULIA DELLA CROCE A journalist, noted authority on Italian food, award-winning author of 14 cookbooks, and writer for National Geographic, della Croce conducts highly acclaimed culinary sailing tours of Venice and its lagoon islands. PHOTO BY NATHAN HOYT
People are so touched by the kind of devotion that Mauro Stoppa, the host and captain of the Eolo, has. He is very devoted to bringing people into what the authentic Venetian experience is. He restored an old fishing boat, one of three remaining bragozzo, which is a kind of flat-bottomed fishing boat designed for the shallow waters of the lagoon.
He lives on the boat and makes everything himself on the boat. He cooks the food of the lagoon— mostly seafood, since it’s on the Adriatic. Fishermen come up to the boat with the fish they caught that morning. The food never stops coming. I’ll tell you my favorite thing he made the other day. He had a beautiful branzino, the biggest branzino I’d seen—4
dogs just for truffle hunting, and we would all go out into the woods while the dogs dug for the truffles. Once we had them, we cleaned them, made the pasta, and shaved truffles that were just in the ground only moments before right over the pasta. It doesn’t get any fresher than that!
pounds? He baked it half-way, took it out of the oven, and made a delicious topping of fresh breadcrumbs mixed with herbs—fresh herbs from the little garden on the boat—and olive oil. He peeled the skin off the fish and packed this crumb coating on the flesh, and put it back in the oven. When it came out, it was very moist, and the topping created almost like a crust on the fish, which itself was very juicy. It was ridiculously good. I’ve had things on the boat I’d never had before. One of them is whelk—it has the consistency of conch. He cuts it up and makes fritters out of it. And there’s a special kind of shrimp native to the Adriatic called canocchia—it’s so sweet, it’s almost sugary.
I was in Bologna on business recently, in the dead of winter when it was snowing on and off all over Emilia-Romagna—raw and cold and un-Italian. My hosts drove us to a dreary suburb. The restaurant was a lovely and unassuming place named for its chef-owner, Giglia, a woman in her 60s, who was still cooking and apparently a local superstar, and it was here that the cuisine of Emilia-Romagna became riveting for me. Appetizing affetati—mortadella, salsiccia, and chunks of, naturally, Parmigiano-Reggiano stippled with very old balsamic vinegar—were laid out along with a couple of bulbous bottles of the local beloved chilled red Lambrusco. And then all heaven broke loose, with handmade tortellini stuffed with a forcemeat of capon, pheasant, and peacock, and of course “in brodo,” a broth made from the same fowl as the forcemeat. Dusted with grated Parmigiano, the flavors were as startling and revivifying as anything I had ever, will ever, taste again. Then came rare, grilled Chianina beefsteak, sliced thick, crusty, as tender as your eyeball, doused with a sublime unfiltered olive oil. And then there was a meal cooked by Elvira D’Alessio, my best friend Gennaro’s sister, at her marmoreal home in Ercolano, the Vesuvian suburb of Napoli. Elvira also lives in Anacapri, where her cooking school resides along with her fame as the best cook on Capri. She roasted a huge dentice, the most prized fish in the sea, having done battle that day with her fishmonger. It was preceded by Napolitano affetati, followed by fresh handmade rigatoni tossed with a light tomato sauce that Italian women take rather seriously, to put it mildly.
our Food is just the beginning Find out what makes us the healthiest country on earth
RANKED #1
Healthiest Country on Earth by the Bloomberg Global Health Index
The Mediterranean diet has long been perceived as the healthiest diet in the world. It is abundant in fruits, vegetables, whole grains, legumes and olive oil. It features fish and poultry, which are lean sources of protein. Italian cuisine is not only recognized for its nutrition and health benefits, but its award-winning chefs and restaurants, known throughout the world. This year, Italy was ranked the #1 healthiest country in the world, according to the Bloomberg Global Health Index. Italian food is just the beginning.
Plan your trip now at www.italia.it
The Italian quality of life encourages you to slow down and savor the moment, along with that nice glass of wine.