CORDELIA STUBBING // 61-64 MARYLEBONE

› The Big Pilot's Watch 43

(Ref. IW3293)

› The Big Pilot's Watch 43

(Ref. IW3293)

DMR’S CORDELIA STUBBING

WORDS JAI MCINTOSH

Venturing into the world of Horology is never easy, however, David M. Robinson are on hand, or wrist, to provide horologists of all levels with the information and products required. Leading the way not just in design but in sustainable practice, we sat down with DMR’s Cordelia Stubbing to step into 2022 with Schaffhausen's watchmaking experts, IWC.

Could you give a brief introduction to IWC and their heritage?

Engineering time machines in Schaffhausen since 1868, IWC was founded by young Boston watchmaker Florentine Ariosto Jones, with the ambition to innovate Swiss artisanal watchmaking into the highest quality of manufacture. Jones initiated a collaboration between artisan and industry creating the first serial production of watches. The original manufacture was chosen in Schaffhausen, situated beside the Rhine river, an essential source of hydro power to the business. The energy of the Rhine created a sustainable foundation, of which today IWC are recognised as the leaders in the watch industry.

Iconic watch families include the Pilot first designed in 1936, a functional design and an aviation tool watch. The Portugieser collection began in 1939, aptly named after a request from two Portuguese merchants who asked IWC directly for a marine chronometer designed for the wrist. The first Portugieser was an unusually large case size for the art deco trends of the 30’s, of which IWC are still celebrated today. IWC’s Portofino collection, created in 1984 was established as a redirection from the quartz crisis. Inspired simply by the elegant silhouette of the pocket watch with Mediterranean inspired strap hues, the Portofino remains an IWC favourite for men and women.

Actions taken by IWC in their bid to become a more environmentally responsible company

Limited manufacture including special and limited editions increasing desirability and collectability of icons.

Research and collaborations into new strap designs such as TimberTex paper straps.

Responsible Jewellery Council membership auditing ensures the business complies with sustainable practice.

Recycled precious metals and careful planning of case engineering reducing waste.

New manufacture operates using sustainable energy sources, and heat recycling.

On purchasing a client can register with ease for a full eight year guarantee and IWC creates a unique profile for their timepiece. How has the brand developed over the past few years?

The IWC Big Pilot Roadshow which took place throughout 2021 exposed the brand into various cities across the UK and across the world. Their travelling containers allowed the brand to take their product and heritage on the road, personally introducing themselves to locals everywhere with impact.

IWC collaborators shared artwork and installations in major cities with three dimensional marketing. The Pilot Watch models, released in 2021 (notably the Big Pilot 43 IW329301) are worn by inspiring IWC ambassadors including Lewis Hamilton and Tom Brady. All IWC ambassadors are existing wearers of the brand, selected for their commitment to the brand and their professional triumphs.

In the Lewis Hamilton campaign video, there was an emphasis on IWC and LH being drivers of change. What change has IWC driving in recent years?

Since Christoph Grainger-Herr became CEO for the brand in Schaffhausen, he has overseen the redesign of their manufacture (opened in 2018) a sustainable masterpiece which features renewable solar energy, recycled heat and all packaging reduced to the essentials. GraingerHerr understands the future of our client expectations and that sustainability begins at the heart of the sourcing, design and production processes.

› Top Gun edition ‘Mojave Desert’ (Ref. IW506003)

IWC are looking to develop dramatically this year, in particular the emphasis on the nine key targets. What was the reasoning behind these targets and was placing them on the website part of the process to increase transparency and prove they are real attainable goals?

IWC are an incredibly transparent watch manufacturer today, surprisingly unusual in the industry. Since becoming registered with the RJC, Responsible Jewellery Council, the company were the first in the business to publish a sustainability report annually, also published on their website. This allows the client direct access to view and is a trusted requirement to genuinely register sustainable manufacture. There is a lot of press on Sustainability across the world of luxury in recent years, some grey areas or ‘green-washing’ as it is named, so it is important to know there are measures in place to authenticate these practises.

In terms of current popularity, which collection is leading the IWC pack?

The Pilot’s Watch collection, in particular the most recent Pilot’s Chronograph 41 (IW388102) £6500, features an ergonomic smaller case design which suits all. IWC in house movement, exhibition caseback and brand new EasX-change bracelet change system allowing the wearer to change the bracelet to leather or rubber strap options. It surpasses the success of the Pilot ‘Le Petit Prince’ chronograph 43mm (IW377717) and is in great demand.

Which watch would you recommend for first time buyers?

The Portofino Chronograph (IW391009) on a Milanese bracelet suits both men and women, presenting a clean line and neat chronograph complication. The day date windows are positioned perfectly between ‘IWC’ and ‘Schaffhausen’ on the dial. Available in 42mm and more recently the 39mm. There are so many Leather strap options in terms of hues, which adds personality to a special first Swiss timepiece.

And what if someone is looking to take their watch to the next level? Limited in production, the Big Pilot Watch Top Gun edition ‘Mojave Desert’ (IW506003) features a sand hue ceramic case inspired by the Nevada desert and giant automatic 7 day power reserve. A unique timepiece, with a direct relationship to the aviation academy of the USA. Each qualifying Top Gun Pilot receives an IWC timepiece and they often trial new models in real life training.

Cream always rises to the top – which watch is the best of the best?

Ultimately, the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar (IW503401) depicts the visionary engineering of Kurt Klaus and is the IWC statement of function over form. The most revered 52615 calibre which simply doesn’t require any date adjustments once set for the next 577 years. Klaus was asked to design a Perpetual Calendar movement that allowed the wearer to comfortably adjust without any pushers. He achieved this renaissance timepiece after meticulous study for ten years, to then be presented in 1985. It is a true icon in the world of horology and a worthy investment for any serious timepiece collection.

Finally, which watch is your current personal favourite?

My current favourite is the Portofino handwound eight days (IW510107) in 5N 18ct red gold. It features a large case diameter of 45mm, however the elegant round pocket watch case silhouette means this large size suits even the slimmest of wrist. It houses a stunning IWC manual movement visible from the exhibition case back. With a power reserve of eight-days this is beautifully displayed on the dial indicator – my favourite detail for any mechanical timepiece.

Visit davidmrobinson.co.uk and discover the IWC collection