THE EDITOR'S NOTE // 9-21 THE PRIMER

THE COVER IMAGE

pictured ṢỌPẸ DÌRÍSÙ

photographed by BETH BENNETT

location SOHO SQUARE, LONDON

hair and makeup JENNIE ROBERTS

with curlsmith and patricks

interview BETH BENNETT

THE COVER IMAGE

‘“THE END OF A MELODY IS NOT ITS GOAL: BUT NONETHELESS, HAD THE MELODY NOT REACHED ITS END IT WOULD NOT HAVE REACHED ITS GOAL EITHER. A PARABLE.” Friedrich Nietzsche

THE EDITOR'S NOTE

This year has, as we all know, been far from ideal. Domestically, the Prime-Ministerial merry-go-round has been twisting and turning, failing to provide anyone with a semblance of palatable normality. As Russia illegally invaded Ukraine, the cost of living sharply rose. To top it off we had a Winter World Cup that has been swimming in controversy, sexism, human rights violations, and iffy speeches from FIFA President Gianni Infantino. Ostensibly, 2022 has been a year better left to indulge in the recess of history. However, whilst international and domestic news has caused significant changes to the way billions of people live, 2022, like any other year, has provided time to build meaningful connections and relationships, seek opportunities, and take the next step. For fear of indulging too much in the cloche, the close of the year is the end of a chapter; a brief moment of pause before the next one begins. Personally, this year, I have been gifted the opportunity to work with some of the most talented, dedicated and overly caffeinated groups of people on projects I would never have imagined being involved with. EJ has undergone a development too, as those reading this may be acutely aware of. We have interviewed and collaborated with some of the most significant and important people across multiple disciplines, telling compelling stories and gaining meaningful insight. There seems no better way to close the year than with thanks to you, the reader, the wonderful team of talented people within EJ headquarters, and all of the brands and people who have helped us build a magazine that we are proud of. We step into 2023 embracing the unknown and welcoming opportunity. See you around!

JAI MCINTOSH EDITOR

FIVE IN FIVE TEAM EJ'S 2022 ESSENTIALS

This final Five in Five celebrates the every day essentials that have gotten us through the seasons, weathered the storm of 2022 with us, and, at the end of the day, just been really helpful to have around this year.

EMILY

La Marzocco Linea Mini Morning coffee routine of sanity.

TOM

Nike Blazer Mid '77 Jumbo Jumbo comfort for jumbo feet.

CHRIS

Snow Peak Titanium Single Wall 450 Mug Taste of the wildnerness, indoors.

EVIE

Podcast: Armchair Expert with Dax Shepard Unlimited source of captivating conversation.

BETH

Dead Man's Shoes Blu-ray DVD Meadows' horror inspired my creativity.

WHERE WE'VE BEEN KENDAL MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL

Having dipped our toe into the world of outerwear and adventure in EJ63, we have kept an eye on the happenings in the outdoor world. When Kendal Mountain Festival invited us to attend, we knew we had to grab this opportunity with both hands.

The Lake District rarely fails to impress, with an abundance of natural beauty in our permanent surroundings. Stepping into ‘Base Camp’ - the social nexus of the event - we were welcomed with glasses of champagne and a collection of anecdotes from festival organisers. Add to this the collection of brand stalls all offering information, competitions and prizes - everything looked promising.

We came with a plan, seeking out friends of the journal in Aldo Kane, Ed Jackson, Jason Fox and the ThruDark team. Upon noticing them, we shuffled over to say hello, hoping they would recognise us. Our anxiety abated when both Ed and Aldo managed to negotiate their mental fog to just about recognise our faces, to then have a detailed catch-up about their recent projects, and plans for the future. It is worth adding here that the handshake I received from Jason Fox may have been one of the firmest handshakes I have experienced; very on brand for a former SBS specialist and SAS Who Dares Wins host.

Our first stop was to see one of the headliners of the festival, the esteemed Sir Ranulph Fiennes. Over five hundred people flooded the theatre at Kendal Leisure Centre and waited patiently in anticipation for the most decorated explorer of our generation. The event was hosted by Kenton Cool - one of the world's leading high altitude mountaineers, most renowned for his 16 record-breaking summits of Mount Everest. After a tremendous introduction by Kenton, Ranulph took to the stage and shared a fascinating and humbling account of his life’s endeavours and achievements. Intertwined with a number of comical anecdotes and armed with some graphic images that certainly weren’t for the faint hearted. The audience were in awe of his mental and physical resilience, as well as his assemblage of record-breaking world-first expeditions and adventures. It’s safe to say that we all left feeling rather privileged that we were able to witness first-hand the trials and tribulations of the great Ranulph Fiennes.

Following the event, in true festival style, we treated ourselves to a couple of wellearned locally brewed ales and reflected on the events of the day, readying ourselves for the Adidas Terrex 10K Trail Run that was to follow the next morning. Despite getting caught up in the evenings escapades at the infamous Ruskins Bar, we were up bright eyed and bushy tailed (well some of us were) ready to take on the run. The natural beauty of the landscape certainly didn’t disappoint, and unsurprisingly distracted us from the relief of the climb and the hangover that we were trying to shake off. As always, the sheer elation following the run made it all worthwhile and set us up for the day ahead.

Quite fittingly, this brings us to one of my personal highlights of the festival featuring Ed Jackson and his take on adaptive adventure. For those who didn’t catch the interview in EJ63, Ed Jackson is a former professional rugby player who experienced a life-altering accident which rendered him paralysed from the neck down. Astonishingly, he beat the odds and is continuing to push the boundaries of what is humanly possible. Ed has taken adaptive adventure and alpine mountaineering to the next level, becoming the first quadriplegic to reach over 7000m, to which he nearly lost his life in the process.

Ed was joined on stage by Steve Bate MBE and Darren Edwards - two equally as impressive and awe-inspiring individuals. Darren is a former mountaineer and army reservist who was paralysed in a near death climbing accident. Since then, he

WORDS

JAI MCINTOSH & SAM DYSON

PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS GERRARD

PICTURED RIGHT

CHRIS BONINGTON, BRITISH MOUNTAINEER

has become an active para-adventurer and expedition leader who is a passionate champion of the phrase “strength through adversity”. Steve is a Paralympic cyclist and adventurer with a significant visual impairment that is degrading by the day. Despite their physical limitations, they have refused to let this get in the way of them living their life to the fullest. In this heart-wrenching, remarkable and inspiring commentary, each of them painted a visceral picture of the adversity they experienced, how they overcame it and what they have achieved since. Ed was incredibly grateful to Berghaus - the headline sponsor of the event - for their work in adapting kit to optimise performance and to help cater for physical differences. Alongside this, as well as their mental fortitude, there really is no stopping them. What amazed us most is that, despite all they’ve been through and achieved, they have been able to maintain their sense of humour and humble nature.

Following the talk, we caught up with Ed in the bar next door, warming up for the most highly anticipated event of the evening - The North Face Apres Ski Party. We had heard lots of good things about this event and it certainly didn’t disappoint. With Kendal regular Carly Wilford on the decks, and a packed out venue at The Brewery Arts Centre, the event was only going to go one way. It was even worth the sore head the next morning, which was soon eliminated after a bacon sandwich at the BMC breakfast club.

The final day of the festival consisted of one final trip to Basecamp, where we heard Adriana Brownlee discuss her mission to be the youngest female to conquer all 14 8000m peaks at the age of 21. On top of this, we also witnessed the likes Brian Hall and Tom Livingstone talk about risk vs reward in high mountain alpinism, which was another personal highlight.

Kendal Mountain Festival will certainly be a staple feature in our annual calendar of events. We left feeling a great sense of privilege, having packed a number of iconic and inspirational speakers and edgeof-the-seat adventure films all into one weekend. Not to mention the formidable 10K trail run, contrasted significantly with the festival parties that aren’t to be missed.

See you next year, Kendal.

WHAT WE'RE READING CHROMORAMA: HOW COLOUR CHANGED OUR WAY OF SEEING BY RICCARDO FALCINELLI

Riccardo Falcinelli is an award-winning graphic designer and best-selling author whose work has been highly acclaimed in Italy and around the world. He teaches at the ISIA Faculty of Design in Rome.

Chromorama is a colour book like no other. Taking in everything from Titian to Hitchcock, from medieval dyes to mayonnaise, from Queen Victoria to Michelle Obama, Falcinelli guides us through the history of colour to show us the material, scientific and intellectual shifts that inform our attitudes to colour, art and design. A bestseller when first published in Italy – and a bravura piece of writing and analysis – this is the new colour bible: a gorgeously illustrated exploration of colour and the modern gaze, from an award-winning designer.

WHAT WE'RE LISTENING TO TEAM EJ'S 2022 ALBUMS OF THE YEAR

CHRIS

Viagra Boys - Cave World

A shocking satire of devolution, Swedish musicians Viagra Boys returned this Summer with an energetic, post-punk album for the ages. TOP SONG: ‘Troglodyte’

EMILY

Lime Cordiale - 14 Steps to a Better You

Though released in 2020, this Aussie rock album is a constant comforting companion through the dreary grey of British seasons. TOP SONG: ‘We Just Get By’

BETH

Fontaines D.C. - Skinty Fia

This Spring saw the return of Irish Post-Punk with the release of Fontaine’s D.C.’s third album, utilising their trademark lyricism, fiery chanting, and Celtic flair to craft one of the most remarkable albums of all time. TOP SONG: ‘I Love You’

EVIE

PUP - The Unravelling of PUPTheBand

The latest release from Toronto outfit PUP satirises the journey of selling out and spiralling downwards. Expect piano interludes and supremely screamable hooks.

TOP SONG: ‘Totally Fine’

TOM

Nilufer Yanya - Painless

A haunting return from the English singer/songwriter, Painless, with ease and subtly, takes you an ethereal journey. Read our interview with Nilüfer on page 78. TOP SONG: ‘another life’

Images courtesy of Year0001, Chugg Music Entertainment, Partisan, Rough Trade, Rise Records, ATO Records

WHO WE'RE TALKING TO OSCAR CLAYTON

WORDS

JOE BURROWS

A story that caught our attention this year was Jamaica’s Rugby Sevens team. Something about them encouraged intrigue. We caught up with Oscar Clayton to talk about all things rugby.

JB How were you first introduced to playing rugby?

OC Like most people, I first got involved in playing rugby at school. More specifically at the start of secondary school; I failed my first two attempts at playing when I was slightly younger, maybe five and nine years old (laughs).

JB How were you able to develop from starting out in rugby to playing for Jamaica internationally?

OC University rugby definitely played a part in my development. I was able to play in stronger structures, better than I had done previously. I had weaknesses exposed and I started playing with people who could challenge me more fully; an experience I needed for sure. This gave me the opportunity to work in a highly-skilled system and I worked out how to express myself within this new team dynamic.

JB How did you transition your skillset from Rugby Union to Rugby Sevens?

OC Going into the U-17s, I was playing for a club called Chinnor. My previous club was holding a Sevens tournament. We submitted teams for this and won pretty easily. From here, I was recommended to play for an invitational team which took the level higher, which was around 2018. From 2019 until my first tournament with Jamaica, I hadn’t played a single game of Sevens rugby. Then, after getting involved in the set-up, I was subbed on the play against Argentina who had just won bronze at the Olympics. This wasn’t easy (laughs), but I knew I had time to develop and get support from the management, staff and players.

My first call-up for the full national side only came this year. I had trained with the UK base of players but the national team is a little different. I have been with the UK bunch since my first year, as the coach and I knew each other. We were able to train throughout covid due to the Olympic qualification, which allowed us to work together well and it allowed me to put myself forward in a good light. Unfortunately, I broke my ankle in 2021, which was a real blow, meaning I missed two competitions. I knew 2022 had to be a big year for me personally, and then by chance, I got invited out to Spain to play for the side. It all happened so quickly; it was a whirlwind for sure. My family got to see me play, which in retrospect is a real moment of pride for myself, and for them, I hope (laughs).

JB What has 2022 been like for you and the team?

OC This year was a big one for us. We started off the year with the World Series, which is awesome. There are two stops: Malaga and Sevilla. We came second to Canada, which qualified us for the Commonwealth Games and the Rugby World Cup - I wasn’t selected at this point. Those who weren't selected were sent to America to train, which was crazy. I went to Chile to play in the Challenger Series which was great, but ultimately we struggled to play at the level we knew we could. That was a shame but it did allow the team to experiment with new members.

In September, we went to South Africa for the World Cup, which was an incredible experience but we didn’t improve our placing from the previous World Cup. We knew that we could do better than we did in the previous World Cup but we failed to beat Scotland which is a source of frustration for the team. We still have plenty of development to do; the game on the whole does. As a team, we are working on improving and getting over the line - we have to believe in the process.

We ended the year in Mexico which, if successful, would qualify us for the Challenger Series 2023. We entered the tournament as favourites despite being a new group.

We also had the Women’s team and the U19s side make the final, which was a sense of motivation. We won the tournament (laughs)!

JB Do you expect any improvements or changes next year?

OC The team dynamic is a little more fluid than some would expect, but we do have a strong and consistent leadership group filled with individuals who are fully committed to helping Jamaica improve their rugby. There is always going to be a slow process of older players slowly leaving as younger players enter.

The tournaments this year have allowed the coaches to see where their player development sits. Of course, we have plenty to improve on; the Challenger Series begins again in April 2023. The group is growing, the quality is increasing, and we are aiming to ensure we improve our ranking next year. We placed tenth this year in the Challenger Cup, next year we will improve on that I am sure.

As always, it is a privilege to play for Jamaica - who wouldn’t love that? The team we are building, our plans and philosophy, and the team dynamic are all at a great point. Hopefully, we can reach our goals for 2023 and keep building momentum with this group. We want to make our mark on the Challenger Series. We want to show we can consistently put in performances and live up to the hype surrounding our team. We are in a collection of teams that are considered winners and favourites. The Pan-American games give us a stab at the bigger teams such as Canada and Argentina whilst also playing teams like Chile who we see as a team at our level.

If we can podium there then that is great. We also have our eyes on the 2024 Paris Olympics, we want to be there to play and compete. We believe we can compete on the biggest stage at the highest level, we just have to work hard and stay focused.

WHERE WE'VE BEEN EATING TEAM EJ'S FAVOURITE MEALS OF 2022

CHRIS

Sugo Pasta Kitchen, Manchester

South Italy comes to Manchester with character, flair and proper good grub. TOP DISH: Cavatellia Calabrese

EVIE

Sunday in Brooklyn, Notting Hill

A Notting Hill staple serving London's best answer to the American pancake stack.

TOP DISH: Sunday Pancakes with Hazlenut Maple Praline & Brown Butter

EMILY

El Gato Negro, Liverpool

Boasting a broad array of Spanish tapas, El Gato is a grand, yet equally cosy, place to dine.

TOP DISH: Salt Cod Fritters

BETH

Bloc+, Glasgow

In a small basement bar just off Sauchiehall Street sits an independent institution with a cacophony of unusual pub grub, all infused with a certain Scottish charm.

TOP DISH: Irn Maiden Poutine

TOM

Moor Hall, Aughton

Class, consideration, and culinary ingenuity, Moor Hall celebrates the refined art of dining. TOP DISH: Aynhoe Estate Fallow Deer, particularly the accompanying ragout.

Read our interview with Chef Patron, Mark Birchall on page 84.

WHAT'S ON OUR FEET CONVERSE X A-COLD-WALL GEL FORMA

The Converse x A-COLD-WALL Geo Forma is a boot which embraces the notion that technology can push design forward.

As an entirely new silhouette, the design language of the Geo Forma is rooted in the Chuck 70, a modern ode to the iconic Chuck Taylor All Star, but is transformed through the concept of angularity.

Beginning with the custom mid and outsole units which define the new articulation, the silhouette explores the distinctive artistry of the Chuck 70, but through a futuristic, geometric lens applying Ross’ signature avant-garde cues, while embracing modern concerns of utility. There’s also an acute attention to the application of technical fabrics in the Geo Forma, like the stretch bootie upper which is constructed to hug the foot, a polyester-spandex-ripstop shroud that is laminated on the lower bootie, and an elastic collar and heel stay pull tab for ease-of-entry. And while the tooling is in a sense nostalgic – the recycled outsole grounds the silhouette in natural and organic elements.

Crafted in two colourways – Volt/Black Beauty and Lily White/Poppy Seed – a maximalist and minimalist palette juxtapose performance and textural applications of colour for differing style applications.

WHAT WE'RE LOOKING FORWARD TO LYNETTE YIADOM-BOAKYE: FLY IN LEAGUE WITH THE NIGHT

Lynette Yiadom-Boakye is a British artist and writer acclaimed for her enigmatic portraits of fictitious people. This exhibition brings together around 70 works from 2003 to the present day in the most extensive survey of the artist’s career to date.

The figures in Yiadom-Boakye’s paintings are not real people – she creates them from found images and her own imagination. Both familiar and mysterious, they invite viewers to project their own interpretations, and raise important questions of identity and representation. Often painted in spontaneous and instinctive bursts, her figures seem to exist outside of a specific time or place. Her paintings are coupled with poetic titles, such as Tie the Temptress to the Trojan (2016) and To Improvise a Mountain (2018).

Yiadom-Boakye was awarded the prestigious Carnegie Prize in 2018 and was the 2012 recipient of the Pinchuk Foundation Future Generation Prize. She was shortlisted for the Turner Prize in 2013. This exhibition is currently touring internationally before coming back to be restaged at Tate Britain for a full three-month run. Go and take a look, it’s excellent.

@lynetteyiadomboakye

WHAT WE'RE WATCHING THE MENU

Price per head: £7.99* at your local Odeon

FIRST COURSE The Most Remarkable Performances

Delectable tension fizzles between Anya Taylor-Joy and Ralph Fiennes. Served with an accompaniment of outstanding supporting caricatures.

(Recommended Wine Pairing: Nicholas Hoult’s sleazy narcissism: elements of sweat, iPhone cameras, and pathetic snivels.)

SECOND COURSE Smart Script-work (Served Well Done)

A critical and considered use of class unconsciousness with a jus of self-aware sarcasm. Built on basic ingredients, but flavourful in delivery.

THIRD COURSE 27-Year-Aged Direction

A rich and immersive direction, Mark Mylod’s (Succession, Entourage) masterful movements achieve an unforgettable flavour.

FOURTH COURSE Cured Cinematography

Slick, stylised, shadowed shots over easy. With a sensual understanding of empty space, the eye of camera itself acts as a purveyor of class standard.

SUPPLEMENTAL COURSE A Cheeseburger

One has never looked this good on screen.

FINAL COURSE An Ensemble of Cinematic Integrity

Simple, strategic, sweet: The Menu serves up a dish that manages to be entertaining in its satire as well as memorable and thought-provoking. (Recommended Wine Pairing: the warmth of good company, popcorn, and a bottle of £4 merlot.)

*This is an estimate.

The Menu is in cinemas now.

10 WHAT WE'VE BEEN COOKING MONKFISH WELLINGTON

INGREDIENTS

Monkfish

2x 120g Portions taken from a 2kg monkfish tail* (ask your fishmonger to portion and skin this for you) Good quality, all butter pastry

*It is important to purchase portions from a monkfish of this weight to ensure that the wellingtons are the correct size and are not too skinny.

Prawn Mousse

100g 5g

50g 100g 5g Peeled raw prawns Chopped dried seaweed (wakame is perfect but you could use nori) Egg white Double cream Maldon salt

Brown Shrimp Butter

1 70g 140g 1g 20g Egg Flour Milk Maldon salt Soft herbs (chervil, dill, parsley)

RECIPE BY

BEN BOEYNAEMS HEAD CHEF AT THE BEAUMONT

METHOD

Brine the monkfish portions in a solution of water with 5% salt – we also add 5% kombu as this adds a depth of flavor and meatiness to the monkfish (like you would find in a dashi). Leave to brine for 12 hours. After 12 hours, pat dry and roll in a muslin cloth (or tea towel) and leave overnight to dry – this will prevent you getting soggy pastry in the wellington. In the meantime we will make a prawn and seaweed mousse for the wellington, alongside a herb pancake which will protect the monkfish and keep the pastry crisp.

Blend the prawns, egg white and salt together to make a fine puree. Slowly fold in the double cream and season with the seaweed powder. Place in the fridge to chill.

Blend all the ingredients together. Cook the crepes like you would with a normal crepe - in a hot pan with butter and a thin layer of the pancake mix.

To make the Wellington:

Spread some of the prawn mousse on to the pancake, place a fillet of monkfish on top, roll the pancake around the monkfish to create a cylinder, tucking in the ends. Allow to set in the fridge. In the meantime roll out your puff pastry (you can also buy prerolled pastry), cut a rectangle large enough to encase the wellington, brush with egg yolk and wrap around monkfish. Egg wash and allow to rest in the fridge. Cook in a very high oven set at 200°C for 13 minutes until the pastry is golden, allow to rest for 5 minutes and carve. At the colony we serve this with roasted root vegetables and red wine fish sauce.

@chefbenb // @thebeaumontldn

LINEA MICRA

BRING THE CAFÉ HOME.