SA CH EF
MEDIA
ISSUE 08 | 2018
The Of ficial Voice of the South African Chefs Association
COCO REINARHZ
Bringing Afro-centric Cuisine to the Mainstream
WATER-WISE KITCHENS Innovative Solutions for Managing Water Wisely
WELCOME
A MESSAGE
FROM THE PRESIDENT IN THE 100 DAYS SINCE MY APPOINTMENT, I HAVE ENJOYED MY NEW BUSY ROLE THOROUGHLY. ACTION MOMENTS DURING THE PAST FEW MONTHS INCLUDE FOOD & HOSPITALITY AFRICA/HOSTEX IN MAY WITH SOME OF OUR FINEST CHEFS DEMONSTRATING THEIR SKILLS. JAMES KHOZA
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n the 100 days since my appointment, I have enjoyed my new busy role thoroughly. Action moments during the past few months include Food & Hospitality Africa/Hostex in May with some of our finest chefs demonstrating their skills, at The Skillery, as well as in the competition area. Congratulations to all of the winners and thank you to all those who came out in support. The Fire & Feast Festival at the Ticketpro Dome in Johannesburg in June was a lot of fun with the Gauteng Committee and members demonstrating their best braai skills. The Bidfood Food Safety Awareness and Listeria Update forum held countrywide was a real eye-opener. Delegates filled a large room to learn more about this food safety crisis from experts in their field. We came away with a lot of knowledge of best practice and how to prevent food and environmental illnesses spreading in our professional kitchens.
I have enjoyed meeting some of our patrons in Cape Town and Johannesburg, including: Natasha Mkhize from Lucky Star, John Van Rooyen from Tsogo Sun, Lungile Zondo from Parmalat, and Roelof Stapel from Nestlé. Also, while attending Graduations, a particular “Thank you” and salute goes to those who support our Enterprise Development Programme which benefits culinary entrepreneurs based in townships. We had a meet-and-greet with the Western Cape Committee and Members with Le Calabash owners Sidney and Alison Bond and 14 American chefs in Cape Town. These Americans came out to learn about South African cuisine. Three young South African chefs have been awarded an all-expenses paid six-week internship at Le Calabash in the Loire Valley in France: Bongani has completed the internship, Thobi is currently in France, and Nkululeko is flying out soon. They learn new
cooking skills, visit markets, farms and restaurants, and get immersed in French cuisine, culture and suppliers. Our Board of Directors held their second board meeting in May, focusing on formulating a plan to develop the Young Chefs Club; establishing an Ethics Committee and discussing the consideration for reinstating a past member into the Association (as raised at the AGM); among other topics. The Olympic Culinary Squad has met for their monthly threeday intensive training sessions with team manager Trevor Boyd in May and June. We are seeing skills and teamwork growing each month under Trevor’s guidance. If you haven’t yet, take a look at our revamped website at www. sachefs.co.za and let us know what you think. It’s been a long time in development and we are proud to have it up and running. Please contact me on james@sachefs.co.za with any queries or suggestions.
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SA CHEF MEDIA
SA CHEF MEDIA ADVERTISERS Bidvest Catering PAGE 11 B-well Inside Front Cover, PAGE 21 Château Gâteaux PAGE 26-27 Checkers Food Services PAGE 17, 59, Outside Back Cover FoodServ Solutions PAGE 37 LANCE GIBBONS
KATIE REYNOLDS-DA SILVA
Gearhouse PAGE 51
SA CHEF CONTACTS
Cover Image: Flic-en-Flac Magic: Vadouvan-spiced sea bass with black rice and tamarind by Chef Coco Reinarhz of Epicure | Photographer: Theana Calitz Published by: SA Chef Media, a division of Film & Event Media
Publisher Lance Gibbons lance@sachefmag.co.za Editor in Chief Katie Reynolds-Da Silva katie@sachefmag.co.za Designers Sheree Steenkamp, Lauren Smith, Caitlin Perrett Writers Susan Reynard, Natasha Skoryk Contributors Brian McCune, Jodi-Ann Pearton Production Manager Katlego Molele katlego@filmeventmedia.co.za
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Traffic Manager Tamlyn Peters tamlyn@filmeventmedia.co.za Digital Manager Cheri Morris digital@filmeventmedia.co.za Business Development Manager Wendy Navarra wendy@sachefmag.co.za Business Manager Coleen Tapson coleen@sachefmag.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 21 674 0646
SA CHEFS
President James Khoza General Manager Thomas Overbeck Financial Manager Jason Pitout Membership enquiries Precious Maseko Culinary Workshops enquiries Yejna Maharaj SACA Certification Elsu Gericke info@sachefs.co.za | www.sachefs.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 11 482 7250
Intertek Services PAGE 31 KFOOD Antenna Shop PAGE 46 Lynca Meats PAGE 07 Mac Brothers Catering Equipment PAGE 23, 47, Inside Back Cover Masiwela Management/Swiss Education Group PAGE 35 McDonald’s PAGE 18 Peppadew International (Pty) Ltd PAGE 25, 58 Sanders PAGE 45 Sovereign Foods PAGE 55
CONTENTS
01 PRESIDENT’S ’ LETTER 02 CREDITS AND ADVERTISERS 04 WATER-WISE KITCHENS
08 INSIDE THE WORLD OF PRIVATE CHEFS
Behind the glamour, these hard-working and entrepreneurial chefs are making the world of private dining their own.
08 THE WORLD OF PRIVATE CHEFS 12 A FRENCH CULINARY ADVENTURE AT LE CALABASH 14 A BOOST UP THE CULINARY LADDER 20 A SAXON FAREWELL TO STEPHEN
12 A FRENCH CULINARY ADVENTURE
Read about the 10 glorious days SA Chef’s Editor in Chief spent at Le Calabash with legendary chefs Sidney and Alison Bond.
21 SA CHEFS ASSOCIATION LAUNCHES NEW WEBSITE 22 CULINARY OLYMPICS: SA SQUAD UPDATE 24 NYCTP: CHANGING LIVES 28 CHEF SHOWCASE: COCO REINARHZ 32 ANNUAL CLEAVER AWARD WINNERS
14 A BOOST UP THE CULINARY LADDER
Talented young South African chefs are invited to apply for a once-in-alifetime internship in France. Learn about others’ experiences here.
34 AFRICA’S ’ BIG 7: A NEW ERA FOR HOSPITALITY 36 TREND WATCH: DOORSTEP DELIVERY 42 HOSTEX 2018 HIGHLIGHTS 48 REGIONAL SHOWCASE: STELLENBOSCH 54 RECIPE BY JODI-ANN PEARTON
28 COCO REINARHZ
This talented and ground-breaking chef is making waves with his brand of Afro-centric cuisine. Susan Reynard reports.
56 ARTISANAL SPREADS, SAUCES AND RELISHES 60 JOBS AND OPPORTUNITIES 62 EVENTS TO DIARISE 64 THE LAST WORD WITH BRIAN MCCUNE 03
FEATURE
© PIXABAY
MANAGE WATER WISELY
Kitchens are water-intensive workplaces, but there are management tips and tricks to ensure water is used wisely and sparingly. Susan Reynard examines some of the options.
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aving water is necessary for a number of reasons: If you live and work in drought-stricken areas, like the Western Cape, water consumption is strictly controlled. However, conserving water is an important part of a business’s overall environmentally responsible, best practice for operations and cost saving. The cost of water is reported to have overtaken headline inflation, with Fin24 reporting that the price of piped municipal water has risen 7.2% since April 2017.
Management
Jodi-Ann Pearton is MD of the Food Design Agency and competitions director of the SA Chefs
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Association. She says that water management requires intensive and ongoing staff training. With Africa being a water-stricken continent in general, raising consciousness about water as a scarce resource is critical. Jodi-Ann says that in her kitchen she has the following protocols in place: • As much water-wise equipment as possible, such as Winterhalter dishwashers which are eco-friendly and although more expensive, pay off in the long run. • Water-wise signage displayed everywhere. • Water-wise training and social media campaigns
for staff and clients. • Recycle water wherever possible. • Replacing regular valves in toilets and bathrooms and on shower heads at work with water-saving alternatives. • Introduction of water-wise menus and use of different, water-wise ingredients is now more important than ever. This includes using less meat and fewer long-cooking vegetables that use a lot of water to soften.
Equipment
Justin Erasmus from Mac Brothers says the company has made great strides in tackling water usage and water monitoring in the equipment it supplies, from combi-steamers to
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THE TABLE BAY HOTEL COLLABORATED WITH STUDIO H AND SERVED A WATERLESS DINNER ON JETTY 2 TO MARK EARTH HOUR THIS YEAR ON 24 MARCH. © THE TABLE BAY
ALL ELOMA PRODUCTS ARE EQUIPPED WITH SPECIAL FEATURES THAT SAVE VALUABLE RESOURCES SUCH AS ENERGY AND WATER.
warewashing equipment. The Eloma Genius MT combi-steamer and bake-off oven, made in Germany, features a fully automatic cleaning system for top cleaning results that also keeps the consumption of water, cleaning and rinsing agents to a minimum. The new Genius MT features a quick clean in 15 minutes as well as a colour-coded indicator of levels of care-product quantities. All Eloma products are equipped
with special features that save valuable resources such as energy and water. Eloma has a patented live-steam-system that ensures live steam is available within a matter of seconds without preheating; perfect steam saturation down to the millilitre; economical and ecological efficiencies including short cooking times and significantly reduced water and energy consumption. The Multi-Eco-System includes a high-performance heat exchanger that allows energy savings of up to 16% and water savings up to 42%. It is the only manufacturer of combi-steamers to date to have been awarded the Dr.GeorgTriebe Innovation Prize in the category “Ecology and Efficiency” for its Multi-Eco-System.
Awareness THE ELOMA GENIUS MT COMBI-STEAMER AND BAKE-OFF OVEN © HENGLEIN & STREETS
The much publicised “Day Zero” crisis that faced Cape Town after
a prolonged drought resulted in consumers and businesses in the Western Cape to take water management very seriously, drastically reducing consumption. For many, water saving has now become second nature and the rest of the country can do well to follow suit. World Water Day on 22 March, now in its 25th year, focuses attention on this precious resource worldwide. This year’s theme of “Nature for water” explored naturebased solutions to the current water challenges the wold is facing. According to the UN’s website, “Damaged ecosystems affect the quantity and quality of water available for human consumption. Today, 2.1 billion people live without safe drinking water at home; affecting their health, education and livelihoods.
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FEATURE
MANY OF THE DISHES WERE SERVED WITHOUT CUTLERY AND CROCKERY, EATEN STRAIGHT FROM THE TABLE USING ONE’S HANDS. SOME DISHES WERE SERVED USING ECO-FRIENDLY CROCKERY AND CUTLERY.
A WATERLESS DINNER © THE TABLE BAY
Sustainable Development Goal 6 commits the world to ensuring that everyone has access to safe water by 2030, and includes targets on protecting the natural environment and reducing pollution.” UN secretary-general António Guterres said at the launch of the International Decade for Water: Water for Sustainable Development, 2018-2028: “By 2050 at least one in four people will live in a country where the lack of fresh water will be chronic or recurrent. Quite simply, water is a matter of life and death. Our bodies, our cities, our industries and our agriculture all depend on it.”
Quality
Access to quality water is essential and water filtration equipment plays a large role in eliminating plastic bottles. Robin Yellin, CEO of Wellsys Water Dispensers, says that companies are moving away from bottled water – either single-use bottles or refillable water coolertype bottles – in favour of filtration machines, such as the Wellsys Bio-Sure Plus. Benefits include: • Environmental: Reduces plastic in the environment as well as reduces carbon footprint of
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bottles being transported • Convenience: No more empty bottles at the water cooler or staff having to change the heavy bottles • Bacteria: Unsanitary water coolers serve as a breeding ground for bacteria and viruses • Cost: Save up to 50% on your water costs • Safety: No strangers in and out of the building delivering water Wellsys filtered water has undergone scientific testing by an external laboratory to ensure that the quality of water is the best it can be in terms of chemical, physical and biological content. The Wellsys 9000 used by corporate clients easily connects to water supply; produces both hot and cold water; has a unique ninetimes purification system; adds back essential nutrients to the water; and has a stylish design and is long-lasting. Maintenance is included in the rental offering and designed to last at least a year. “If you are using a bottled water system for your employees, now is the time to re-evaluate your business, fix and reduce costs, eliminate the hassle of bottle management and handling and provide a healthier alternative,” says Robin.
Retailers
Major retailer Pick n Pay has tackled the recent water crisis by installing water-saving devices in more than 50 of its stores in the Western Cape and is continuing the roll out. New stores are fitted with water metres and water saving devices. All of its stores in the Western Cape are tracking water usage to ensure they comply with the water restriction programme. In addition, the retailer is running employee and consumer education programmes in conjunction with the City of Cape Town.
Hotels
Sun International’s The Table Bay hotel at the V&A Waterfront in Cape Town collaborated with Studio H in tackling the water challenge in an innovative and inspirational way. They served a waterless dinner on Jetty 2 to mark Earth Hour this year on 24 March. Executive sous chef, Keshan Rambarun, designed a four-course dinner using ingredients and dishes inspired by Studio H’s research project, S/ZOUT. The project was shown at Dutch Design Week in 2017 as part of an exhibition that looked at the future of food in the face of depleting resources,
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particularly the future of food if the water used for agriculture were to be sea water. Chef Keshan prepared dishes using sustainable cooking methods and incorporated indigenous ingredients. Many of the dishes were served without cutlery and crockery, eaten straight from the table using one’s hands. Some dishes were served using eco-friendly crockery and cutlery. Adding to the traditional “off-thegrid” feel of Earth Hour, lighting was limited to UV and solar between 20h30 and 21h30, during which guests enjoyed a glow-in-the-dark dessert. Hannerie Visser, founder of Studio H, says, “Embracing ethical, resource-conscious living is key for the future of food.” Keshan adds, “This extraordinary experience allows us to highlight the current water scenario and increase awareness.”
The group’s The Boardwalk Casino and Entertainment World in Port Elizabeth started its “green journey” some five years ago, increasing the pace of change in 2016. Several technological interventions ensure saving of water and electricity. The resort’s general manager, Mike van Vuuren, says, “The Boardwalk takes to heart its obligation to reduce the impact of its operations on the environment and to use resources such as water and electricity efficiently. We are very proud of the achievements we have made in this regard in recent years. It is also pleasing to see the willingness of our employees to support our endeavours to go adopt ‘greener’ working practices.” To save water, The Boardwalk has installed flow restrictors on taps throughout the complex and
water-efficient showerheads in the hotel’s bathrooms. Together they conserve both energy and water by restricting the flow of water without compromising the guests’ experience. Rain water is also collected from the roof and stored in tanks. This water is used for topping up the cooling tower supply instead of using clean, potable water. All irrigation in the gardens is done with recycled water and does not rely on the municipal supply. “Our next big project will be to collect water from our basement seepage, and through reverse osmosis, process and clean it to a specified quality. This will then be used to supply the hotel with water, ensuring almost complete selfsufficiency. The waste water from this process will be used for irrigation at a later stage, pending further testing and quality,” Mike explains.
FEATURE
GOING IT ALONE Behind the scenes of a career as a private chef proves that they are hard-working, creative, flexible and savvy businesspeople. Susan Reynard reports.
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he world of private chefs may appear exotic, exciting and exclusive, especially to chefs feeling trapped in corporate kitchens. More often, it is unpredictable, requiring exceptional organisational skills and planning to deliver a fine-dining meal in an unfamiliar kitchen to a client’s exacting specifications. Clinton Verhoog has a fresh take on offering private chef services, having launched Chefit a year ago. He is an experienced chef and businessman who has evolved and expanded his business to maximise use of assets and staff and take advantage of gaps in the market. Chefit offers the dining public a website on which to book a qualified chef (all members of the SA Chefs Association); select from a choice of various fully customisable menus; list dietary and other requirements; and plan for a dinner for between four and 12 people in one’s home. A Chefit chef will prepare and service the meal, and clean up afterwards, allowing hosts to enjoy restaurant cooking in their home. They also offer full-service event coordination; cooking classes; professional service staff; full beverage service; décor and flowers; live cooking demonstrations; and food and beverage consulting. Clinton added on this specialised extension to his catering and events business, Delectables. Delectables offers bespoke catering and events services, from intimate dinners to grand gala functions, including a complete catering solution. They
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FEATURE
IMAGES COURTESY OF CHEFIT
I ALWAYS SAY YOU HAVE TO DO THE SMALL JOBS TO GET THE BIG JOBS: YOU MAY DO A DINNER FOR FOUR PEOPLE BUT THAT MAY LEAD TO A CATERING JOB AT THE CLIENT’S OFFICE FOR 100 PEOPLE.
have a comprehensive food and beverage menu to suit all tastes and budgets, and also have relationships with a range of décor and rental suppliers and venues. In addition, Clinton has a specialised food truck called “The Chairman’s Choice” that takes the kitchen on the road, catering for outdoor events. Chefit chefs will cook in the client’s kitchen and their requirements are a working oven and stove; running water; sufficient dinnerware and glassware; pots and pans; oven tray; mixing bowl; cutting board; and basic preparation tools. Kitchen smalls, crockery and cutlery may be supplied on request. “The catering business is very seasonal and from August to December we’re run off our feet. At the start of the year and during winter we’re quiet, but our
overheads and expenses stay the same. From a business point of view, we had to look at how to maximise our assets,” he says. “We’ve always offered catering including in people’s homes, but I saw a gap in the market to offer small-scale dinners, which is where the Chefit model comes in catering for between four and 12 people. This is geared towards dinner parties and instead of going to a restaurant, you can have the chef come to you and offer a restaurant experience in your home.” Clinton says that with Chefit they aim to build a database of qualified and vetted chefs who are available part-time. This may include chefs who work for his business or those who work elsewhere and want to pick up extra work. As orders are placed online, chefs who are on the database and available and interested
can take on the job. Mise en place is done in the catering kitchen and chefs go out to clients with a kit in a cooler box, ready to prepare, finish off and serve on site. The chef will arrive an hour beforehand and leave after the final course is served and client’s kitchen cleaned. “We have our kitchen, we’re making food, so we’re using our resources and servicing our customers in different ways. I always say you have to do the small jobs to get the big jobs: you may do a dinner for four people but that may lead to a catering job at the client’s office for 100 people. The big picture is to create jobs, give guys experience and help them understand how to deal with customers. We would like to see this as a vehicle for skills transfer and sharing the nuances of creating various dishes,” he maintains.
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FEATURE
ARNOLD CREATED WHAT HE REFERS TO AS THE DEPARTMENT OF HAPPINESS, A TEAM OF PEOPLE WHO DO EVERYTHING THEY CAN FROM A CULINARY PERSPECTIVE TO ENSURE THAT CREW CATERING IS A HAPPY BREAK WITH DELICIOUS CUISINE DURING A BUSY DAY OF FILMING.
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Arnold Tanzer’s company name says it all, Food On The Move. He has been an independent chef – he prefers the term “chief cook and bottle washer” and his social media hashtag is appropriately #lifeofanomadicchef – for 20 years and has cooked and catered for a wide variety of clientele around the world, in a range of formal and informal kitchens, in the city and in the bush. He currently caters for cast and crew on commercials, reality television shows and feature films. On crew catering he says, “We saw there was a gap in the market. Having done some culinary production putting shows together I was quite often shocked at the standard of meals served to crew on site. Crew members are there 14 hours a day and I clearly remember a discussion with Pete Goffe Wood on Masterchef SA after another grey mince lunch, that I didn’t understand why they couldn’t make such simple convenience products taste good.” Arnold created what he refers to as the Department of Happiness, a team of people who do everything they can from a culinary perspective to ensure that crew catering is a happy break with delicious cuisine during a busy day of filming. “The benefits of this business for me is that no two days are the same. We work on a very tight budget, so are always pushing the envelope on how we can get creative with the budget that we’ve been given. I approach crew catering a bit differently: there used to be lots of tables groaning with a buffet of badly cooked food. I take a fresh-food approach and different meals and snacks to keep things interesting. Friday is braai day so we’ll prepare a really nice braai and if it’s pizza night then we’ll have fresh pizzas with a choice of three different topping combinations. We may limit choices but we make it really well,” he explains.
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Arnold’s travels and work make him a food-trends expert. He says fresh is everything, with a big call for a low starch component to dishes. He caters for raw vegans and Banting buffs as well as those with a range of dietary requirements, two meals a day minimum for periods of up to six months, and still keeps mealtime exciting. If it’s cold he’ll prepare hot soup and homemade naan, or produce a batch of fresh pretzels as a snack if filming is extending after hours. If the crew works, he works. “The biggest challenge is always budget,” Arnold notes. “Producing a show costs a lot of money. Crew get meals on set because they don’t want people to leave set; time is money and they want to ensure the work can carry on. We are always on location – it’s rare that we’re in a studio with a kitchen – so have to carefully transport food.
IMAGES COURTESY OF FOOD ON THE MOVE
Some jobs require us to feed 400 people two meals a day, but equally we may have to offer four meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner, midnight dinner) for 52 days on the side of a mountain. In that case, we have to build a kitchen that meets all hygiene and safety standards, featuring a water filtration unit and reefers to keep food fresh,” he explains. Logistics and planning are everything, as are flexibility and quick thinking, when plans have to
change in a heartbeat because it’s started to rain. It takes a particular calibre of chef to survive and thrive in this environment, Arnold notes, with some chefs from more formal, structured kitchens often finding it challenging. “My team needs to understand that crew may be grumpy as they’ve been holding a camera for 14 hours. It’s a team effort: we may not be the people producing the show but we’re a spoke in the wheel of making it all happen,” he adds.
BIDVEST GOURMET KITCHEN BIDVEST GOURMET’S VERY OWN GOURMET KITCHEN OFFERS Team Building Events such as Culinary Cook Offs, Mystery Baskets and Master Classes. To book your Team Building Event or for further enquires, contact us at events@bidvestcatering.co.za or +27(0) 12 001 7160.
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FEATURE
A FRENCH CULINARY ADVENTURE
AT LE CALABASH
In early June 2018, eight women from all corners of the Earth converged on a tiny hamlet in the Loire region of France in search of inspiration.
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n the beginning, the inspiration was to come from cooking classic dishes and drinking French wine. At the end of the journey at Le Calabash Petite Conservatoire De La Cuisine, these women found inspiration in each other, their journey through decades of French history, but above all, from the heartfelt, welcoming, and all-encompassing goodwill that emanates from Sidney and Alison Bond. Clichés are such because they are true; and at Le Calabash, people arrive as wary strangers and depart as close friends. There are few rules here, but one is that produce must be seasonal, fresh and local.
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Sidney and Alison are both highly decorated and award-winning chefs, who have competed and won the highest honours at international competitions, and have also cooked on demand for her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II as well as other heads of state and captains of industry. Beneath their genial and warm demeanours, the Bonds hold decades of knowledge, skills, and experience which guide and inform their actions. From the food to the décor to the music floating through the kitchen, Africa infuses it all. The continent is an integral part of life at Le Calabash. While guests learn key elements of French cooking, and visit centuries-old chateaus and
world-famous markets, Africa still has a lingering presence. Sidney intersperses his demonstrations and lessons with stories of his early life in South Africa and the people and experiences that shaped him not just as a chef, but as a man. In between cooking demonstrations, hands-on practical lessons, and plenty of eating and drinking, the guests were treated to visits to the world-famous Les Halles in Tours, in which the world’s finest chicken, chocolate, cheese and fresh produce can be bought. The guests also spent the day at Chateau Chenonceau, whose history is defined by an almost uninterrupted succession of women who built,
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embellished, protected, restored and saved it. It was certainly a fitting and inspirational experience for the eight amateur cooks. On the penultimate day, Sidney arranged a very special visit – to Le Blanc Cabri, where the fourth generation in a long lineage of local farmers make the finest goats cheese on earth – St Maure. The guests witnessed each step of the process, plus the obligatory taking of selfies with the goats. At the end of the week at Le Calabash, the eight amateur cooks were transformed. Not only were they a tight-knit group of friends, but they radiated confidence in their newfound skills and knowledge, imparted with much warmth, joy and humour by Sidney and Alison Bond. While this account may offer a glimpse into an immersive, stirring, and emotive week as a culinary adventurer at La Calabash, there
THE BONDS HOLD DECADES OF KNOWLEDGE,
SOME OF THE DISHES THAT THE CULINARY ADVENTURERS LEARNED WERE: •
Fricassée of Guinea Fowl with Morels and a Touraine Sauce
SKILLS, AND EXPERIENCE
•
Exotic and Seasonal Macarons
WHICH GUIDE AND
•
Gratin Dauphinoise
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Mousse au Chocolat Manjari
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Caramel Ice Cream
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Classic Risotto
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Saint Maure de Touraine Goats Cheese
INFORM THEIR ACTIONS.
Soufflé
is nothing quite like a first-hand experience. A trip to this tiny part of a country steeped in a rich culinary culture is truly unforgettable. Many thanks to Le Calabash for hosting Katie Reynolds-Da Silva of SA Chef magazine, and Daniella Peters of the South African Chefs Association. www.lecalabash.fr
•
Rego’s Prawn Peri Peri
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Moules Mariniéres
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Quiche Lorraine
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Compté Soufflé
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Escalope of Cod, Parsley Crust, Crème Légère
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Valencian Paella
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Chou Chou Pastry
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Chocolate, Pear and Spéculoos Delice
•
Pâte à choux
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FEATURE
SIDNEY AND ALISON BOND WITH BONGANI HLATSHWAYO AT THE CULMINATION OF HIS SIX-WEEK INTERNSHIP AT LE CALABASH.
A BOOST UP THE
CULINARY LADDER A life-changing opportunity for chefs in need.
“
I
want to help individuals not just become better chefs, but better people. You must go back and share what you’ve learnt here”, says Sidney Bond to intern Thobi Skosana. This is the common thread that runs through life at Le Calabash – listen, learn, share and grow. “An internship isn’t just about what happens here during the six weeks, the true benefit comes after”, says Sidney. “The long-term impacts are huge. These interns can share their skills with other up-and-coming chefs and use their qualification to impress potential employers. The
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true legacy of internships is the economic, societal and personal upliftment for the young chefs and their families and communities. I’m a big fan of paying it forward, and I have no intention of ever stopping.” With increased support from generous patrons all over the world, Sidney and Alison Bond can bring more than the current handful of interns over to France to grow their skillsets and gain experience in first-rate kitchens. The impact on each and every intern has a ripple effect that lasts a lifetime. Thobi Skosana, a graduate of the
NYCTP, was selected from a pool of talented young chefs to train at the prestigious Le Calabash, owned and run by world-renowned chef Sidney Bond and pastry extraordinaire Alison Bond. The National Youth Chefs Training Programme (NYCTP) is an initiative funded by the National Department of Tourism, whose aim is transform the culinary landscape in South Africa. This six-week internship takes place at Le Calabash, which is situated in the Loire valley of France, and in Thobi’s case, is funded by the Bonds and private donors.
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FROM LEFT: ABIGAIL BOND, DANIELLA PETERS, THOBI SKOSANA, KATIE REYNOLDS-DA SILVA, AND ALISON BOND.
The shortlisted candidates are invited to take part in an intensive two-day cooking programme that culminates in the preparation of a high-end dinner for 100 guests. Based on their performance, the Bonds select the lucky intern who will embark on a culinary skills programme that is destined to boost the intern’s status as a chef and place them in high-demand upon their return. The final selection is an emotional and deeply moving moment, as the interns and their families come to understand that
the skills and opportunities that the interns will experience are bound to change their lives forever. “I get to work with living legends”, says Thobi. “Alison and Sidney are wonderful teachers and great people, and Abigail (their youngest daughter) is a very talented chef. They are all kind, straight-forward, helpful, and also very funny. It’s not just about cooking here, Chef Sidney has taught me about teamwork. I am so excited about the Diploma that I will receive at the end of my internship,
PREVIOUS PARTICIPANTS OF THE INTERNSHIP AT LE CALABASH; BONGANI HLATSHWAYO, SKHUMBUZO
which will allow me to approach the top restaurants and reach my goals.” Prior to the selected intern’s departure, the South African Chefs Association works closely with the Bonds and the intern to prepare him or her for their very first international trip. A daunting and sometimes overwhelming prospect for an impoverished youth. Daniella Peters of the SA Chefs Association prepares their visas, uniforms and a comprehensive checklist to ensure the interns feel safe and informed prior to their life-changing journey.
SIDNEY BOND GIVES A SALMON MASTERCLASS TO INTERN THOBI SKOSANA.
NICOLAS THWALA, MEGIN MEIKLE AND THOBI SKOSANA
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FEATURE
MEGIN MEIKLE, INTERN AT LE CALABASH
THOBI SKOSANA, A GRADUATE OF THE NYCTP
WHEN THE INTERNS LEAVE FRANCE, I WANT ENGRAVED ON THEIR BRAINS THAT THE PRODUCE THEY COOK WITH MUST BE FRESH, SEASONAL AND LOCAL. For the first week of their internships, Sidney and Alison assess the interns’ capabilities and outstanding abilities, and identify any gaps in their skillsets. The interns are taught (at Le Calabash and at nearby restaurants and hotels) to identify ingredients, hone their knife skills, cook with seasonal produce, master classic culinary techniques, work with traditional and modern equipment, and above all, take it all in and enjoy every moment. Previous participants of the sixweek internship at Le Calabash were Skhumbuzo Nicolas Thwala, Megin Meikle and Bongani Hlatshwayo, with Nkululeko Qina arriving in the coming weeks. Says Megin of her experience at Le Calabash, “Since visiting France, I have been greatly inspired by the importance of the quality of ingredients, where they come from and whether they are sustainable and in season. “My learning didn’t stop with food. I learnt from Alison and Sidney how important it is to
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constantly be educating myself, and to appreciate my self worth. “Besides the invaluable experience and life lessons, the warmth and hospitality I received from everyone at Le Calabash has shaped how I hope to one day manage and inspire my kitchen team.” During an internship that is stuffed to the brim with once-ina-lifetime experiences, one of the standout excursions is to Rungis – the world’s largest wholesale market for fresh produce. A visit to Rungis a rite-of-passage for chefs, and while the Bonds are certainly under no obligation to take the interns on this full-day roundtrip, they do it anyway. Such is their way. “While the actual cooking is important, what I really need to strive for is to expose these talented young interns to what is essential in the life of a successful chef. When the interns leave France, I want engraved on their brains that the produce they cook with
must be fresh, seasonal and local”, says Sidney. “By working in local restaurants, assisting in the kitchen during our culinary adventure tours, foraging for mushrooms and truffles in the woods, and by getting their hands dirty at nearby farms; these are the experiences that solidify the passion and dedication a chef needs. We will devote the rest of our lives to bringing impoverished chefs to Le Calabash and our partners around the world. Alison and I don’t want any accolades, we just want to change lives.” To help chefs in need to find their path to success, contact Sidney and Alison Bond by visiting www.lecalabash.fr or emailing bonds@lecalabash.fr
If you are interested in becoming an intern at Le Calabash in France, please contact Daniella Peters (daniella@ sachefs.co.za) for further information and criteria.
McDONALD’S
MCDONALD’S COFFEE The Coca-Cola Company’s (TCCC) Georgia blend for McDonald’s is a 100% Arabica blend with superior flavour and embodies distinct flavour profiles of the exotic regions from which it is sourced – Brazil, Colombia and Central America.
B
razilian coffees are largely grown at temperate climates, that make this origin one of the best agricultural regions in the world. Typically Brazilian farmers use the Natural processing method after picking ripe berries. Generations of farmers with a long tradition of good farming and processing techniques have helped Brazilian coffees enjoy the benefit of a fairly uniform cup quality. TCCC buys only the best quality of these Natural Brazil coffees by focusing on coffees that are full-bodied, soft, fine, sweet and balanced with inherent nutty and chocolatey characteristics along with a hint of fruit. Colombian coffees on the other hand, have the unsurpassed unique combination of altitude, latitude and climate, as well as near perfect soil: volcanic ashes, containing a high quantum of organic material. Grown at higher altitudes upwards of 1 200 metres, the rich bio-diversity allows for cultivation to vary between partially shade grown and shadegrown plantations. The coffee is all Arabica dominated by Bourbon, a classic old-world coffee varietal as well as other good cultivars like Típica and Caturra. Colombian farmers follow the traditional hand-picking method of harvesting and also classic fermentation and washing techniques that impart unique characteristics that set apart Colombian coffees as the “Champagne” of the coffee
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world. TCCC buys the finest Colombian coffees that are moderate bodied with their bright, pleasant and distinct fruit character that complements the sweetness and chocolate notes. The key components of the blend are coffees from Central America such as Guatemala, Honduras, El-Salvador and Costa Rica, which are also blessed with soil, altitude, and climate as well as classic Arabica plant variety/ cultivars – Bourbon and other equally good natural hybrids of Bourbon, Pacas and Caturra. Farming practices are very much traditional: shade-grown, handpicked to ensure ripeness of the fruit and age-old fermenting and washing techniques. Central American or centrals as they are known in the coffee trade are renowned for their delicate floral character which provides the Georgia blend its unique fragrant appeal. The coffees are also characterised by their medium bodied and soft, sweet notes. Together with our roasting partners, TCCC has set detailed quality parameters for sourcing, blending and roasting coffee to ensure that the Georgia blend meets the high standards that are associated with “A Product of The Coca-Cola Company”. As part of this, each batch of green coffee is carefully documented against strict quality parameters based on taste profile, origin and preparation at the origin. To
ensure that the coffee is according to specification, each green coffee lot that is bought is quality checked and manually cupped by TCCC and its roasting partners both before being exported from the origin and also upon arrival at the roasting unit. Finally, the production lots are also evaluated to verify they meet the physical as well as sensory specifications. The end result in the cup of the Georgia blend for McDonald’s – is a full bodied, smooth, clean coffee with a balanced flavour that comes through both in the Drip Brew Coffee (L1) as well as Espresso Bean-to-Cup (L2 & L3) beverages.
THE KEY COMPONENTS OF THE BLEND ARE COFFEES FROM CENTRAL AMERICA SUCH AS GUATEMALA, HONDURAS, EL-SALVADOR AND COSTA RICA.
MEDIA
SA CH EF
The Of ficial Voice of the South African Chefs Association
YOUR
SACH EF
MEDIA
CH EF SACH SA
ISSUE 08 | 2018
The Of ficial Voice of the South African Chefs Association
MEDIA
ISSUE 07 | 2018
The Of ficial Voice of the South African Chefs Association
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NEWS
SAXON FAREWELL
FOR STEPHEN
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handful of the Association’s longstanding members gathered at Saxon Hotel Villas & Spa in Johannesburg on 26 March 2018 to celebrate Stephen Billingham’s eight-plus years as President of the Association. In addition to Stephen and Thomas Overbeck, general manager of the Association, attendees included: past presidents Manfred Muellers and Heinz Brunner; Kevin Garrett; Jean-Pierre Siegenthaler; Gianni Mariano; Frits Flatcher; Wolfgang Heiduck; Arnold Tanzer; and Marc Geubert; with Susan Reynard taking photos and notes. A delicious lunch was prepared by executive chef Jane-Therese Mulry and served with fine wines: • Entrée: Coffee, Salmon and Saffron: Coffee-smoked salmon, Alaskan crab, wild rocket, saffron vinaigrette, crème fraiche and caviar • Main course: Duck, Coconut
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and Tamarind: Coconut confit duck, tamarind glazed duck breast, lemon grass, ginger, and onion tempura • Cheese, preserves and crackers: Selection of local and international cheeses, red onion marmalade, olive tapenade, fig jelly and seeded crackers. A Plate of Appreciation was presented to Jane-Therese for her exceptional meal and culinary skills. Each chef shared what the Association means to them, highlights from year past, current and future plans, and how they have appreciated Stephen’s leadership. Stephen said in his vote of thanks, “We all come from a profession with a very celebrated and respected history. We are gathered here in this room with some of the industry’s forefathers and founding fathers of our Association.” He said that for the Association to achieve a future, it needs to
recognise and acknowledge the past and the elders, and to tell their stories. He noted how inspired and motivated he is by the chefs present, their achievements past and present, and their support. “The concept here is clean and simple: there are no chefs jackets, no business cards, no medals, no gongs – just heritage and friendship, so that we may take your stories into the next generation of chefs, like we hope the current generation will take our stories into the future. You will never be forgotten, not as long as we live,” he pledged.
WE HOPE THE CURRENT GENERATION WILL TAKE OUR STORIES INTO THE FUTURE.
NEWS
NEW INTERACTIVE
WEBSITE FOR SA CHEFS
T
he SA Chefs Association has been hard at work giving its online presence an overhaul and launched the muchanticipated new website on Monday, 4 June 2018. Go to www.sachefs.co.za for a variety of information including: recipes; membership; training courses; trends; upcoming events; projects; Olympic Culinary Squad activities; competitions to enter; career opportunities; advertising; and much more. On the recipe front, how about making Balsamic
Brown Sugar Lamb Chops to warm up you and your patrons on a chilly winter’s day or try your hand making Butter Croissants from scratch. General manager Thomas Overbeck says, “We are very proud of the new website. Like everything, it is live and continuously being upgraded; with modern technology. We have the capacity to update as we go. Let us know what you think! Thank you for the amazing feedback and support we have already received. We are tweaking all the time – if
you have anything you want us to correct, update or implement contact us on communications@saca.co.za.”
IT IS LIVE AND CONTINUOUSLY BEING UPGRADED; WITH MODERN TECHNOLOGY.
CHEF TIAAN ON B-WELL’S
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“I have used B-well olive and canola oil blend for quite some time now. You get the great olive oil taste with all the health benefits of canola. I love using it for frying and dressing as well as for marinades and preserving things like garlic and chilli. You cannot go wrong with this affordable, great quality and very tasty product! B-well has also recently launched a new premium quality pure extra virgin olive oil at an affordable price.”
CHEF TIAAN LANGENEGGER; WINNER AND JUDGE OF THE KYKNET TV COOKING SHOW KOKKEDOOR 2013.
Tel: +27 (0)28 514 3441
- Chef Tiaan Langenegger |
Email: info@bwellfoods.co.za
|
Web: www.bwellfoods.co.za
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NEWS
SA OLYMPIC CULINARY SQUAD FIRED UP
Team manager Trevor Boyd reports excellent progress from squad training sessions. Susan Reynard reports.
T
hings are heating up in the training kitchens of the SA Olympic Culinary Squad as they prepare for the IKA/ Culinary Olympics in Stuttgart, Germany from 14 to 19 February 2020. Team manager Trevor Boyd, executive chef of five-star The Michelangelo Hotel in Sandton, Johannesburg, and team members gather at HTA School of Culinary Art in Johannesburg every month for a three-day intensive training session. Trevor says training is progressing according to plan and they are on track to achieve the goals set for this year. For the last training session in May 2018, he says the team is hands-on, with the focus on skills development and conceptualising dishes; looking at different elements and fine-tuning dishes. “We’ve been focussing on the Chef’s Table part of the competition for the past four months. Going forward we’ve conceptualised the Restaurant of Nations three-course meal, and from the June practice session until the end of the year each practice will be fine-tuning both of these sections of the competition,” he explains. Trevor has vast experience and skill as both an Olympic and professional chef and continues expanding his knowledge at international level. He was in Singapore as a shadow judge for the FHA Culinary Challenge 2018 taking place at Food & Hotel Asia, also a national team competition
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and considered one of the top three in the world. He asked as many questions as possible and took lots of photographs. On his return he shared his findings and what he’d learned with the squad in a full debriefing session. He will be a judge at the Culinary World Cup 2018 at Expogast in Luxembourg from 23 to 29 November, another information gathering opportunity that adds to the squad’s collective knowledge. At this stage, squad members are equally positioned to make it onto the team. Trevor says, “For our final team, to be put forward towards the middle of next year, we’ll select champions and heroes, people we can rely on to take us to the Culinary Olympics. Every training session is an eye-opener and we see new skills coming through. We move people around and see which role they are strongest in, who fits in where in the workflow. There are no personalities involved, it’s all about skills: we need a finely balanced team of individuals, with the strongest people fulfilling the roles most necessary to the team. Everyone has an equal chance of being selected, there are no predetermined places. From now to January 2020, we’re going to find our workflow and maximise time, energy, efficiency and motivation,” he explains. “I started off very nervous even though I’ve been on the team for many years. In the last three months my mind has been
THERE ARE NO PERSONALITIES INVOLVED, IT’S ALL ABOUT SKILLS.
blown by the amount of effort the guys are putting in, especially behind the scenes. The road we’ve travelled in last three months is phenomenal. I’m so excited. During each practice session I am inspired by these chefs and want to motivate them even more,” he adds. Upcoming training sessions: • 16-18 June • 14-16 July • 18-20 August • 15-17 September • 20-22 October We put Trevor on the spot, asking him to choose: manager of SA Olympic Culinary team or Liverpool Football Club (he is a lifelong, diehard fan of both). While LFC has a bigger purse, he says, “As a professional chef, being part of and now managing the Olympic Culinary team has meant everything to my culinary journey. I started at grass roots, washing dishes for the team, and now I’m the manager.”
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CAPE TOWN (HEAD OFFICE)
JOHANNESBURG
DURBAN
32 Benbow Ave, Epping 1, Cape Town, 8001, South Africa
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Tel: +27 21 505 4100 Fax: +27 021 534 0319
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NEWS
NYCTP BUILDS CULINARY
TALENT IN SA
NYCTP STUDENTS IN ACTION
S
ince its inception in 2011, some 2 000 aspiring young chefs have completed their studies through the NYCTP and 72% of those have secured permanent employment. Deputy Minister of Tourism, Elizabeth Thabethe, received the Ministerial Award in recognition of its achievements at the Global Summit of Women in Sydney, Australia in April. “This award recognises the programme’s success in building strong business skills and leadership capabilities among the youth, particularly women,” says Thabethe. Thomas Overbeck, general manager of the Association, says: “Youth employability is a priority for us as it not only builds the hospitality talent for the future,
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but it gives us the opportunity to invest in future leaders that will contribute to the South African economy. We believe that we can positively impact the employability of young people who have a passion for cookery through building skills and providing the platform for them to gain experience.” Hudson Masondo, project manager for NYCTP, adds: “Progress and promotion is rapid once students have qualified and we have seen some remarkable success stories. For example, 23-year-old Nosiphiwe Mbele, a graduate of the programme was given the opportunity to work in the USA for 12 months following her training at NYCTP. Not only did she receive invaluable experience which led
to her current employment, but upon returning to South Africa, she was able to buy her mother a house. This is testament to the high level of training that the culinary students receive and the impact that the programme is having on young lives.” Nosiphiwe says of the role the NYCTP has played in her life. “I was always passionate about cooking, but I was unable to attend cooking school because we just didn’t have the money. I was determined to change my family’s circumstances and seized the opportunity given to me. I am so grateful to SA Chefs and the Department of Tourism for helping me achieve my life-long dream of becoming a chef.”
NEWS
WORLDCHEFS CONGRESS & EXPO 2018
T
welve chefs from South Africa are attending the WACS Congress & Expo 2018 from 11 to 14 July Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia on behalf of South Africa, including Association president James Khoza, vice president Allister Esau, Jodi-Ann Pearton representing South Africa on the Worldchefs Bill Gallagher Young Chefs Forum as well as several young, up-and-
coming chefs. The Forum The 38th biennial World Congress carries the theme “Asia on a Plate” and is an opportunity for chefs from around the world to gather for a gastronomic journey of culinary innovation. They will make valuable professional connections and gain insights into leading industry solutions and the latest knowledge in the culinary world.
THEY WILL MAKE VALUABLE PROFESSIONAL CONNECTIONS AND GAIN INSIGHTS INTO LEADING INDUSTRY SOLUTIONS.
HOT out the
FREEZER!
T R E AT Y O U R G U E S T
Our decadent HOT PUDDINGS
A R E T H E U LT I M AT E I N C O N V E N I E N T F R E E Z E R - T O - TA B L E S O L U T I O N S . Château Gâteaux creations can be stored in a frozen state for up to 12 months. Once defrosted, the product cannot be refrozen but can be kept in the refrigerator and consumed within 3 days. Our Hot Puddings collection includes Apple Crumble Tart, Boston Brownie, Cape Malva Pudding, Caramel Volcano, Chocolate Volcano, Hot Mud Pudding and Toffee Apple Pudding.
DID YOU KNOW? Our Hot Puddings can be served from freezer to table in less than a minute!
Preparation couldn’t be easier. Heat in microwave for approximately 30-40 seconds (depending on power of microwave) until soft and sauce has melted onto plate. However, for volcano products sauce will erupt from centre and not spill onto plate. It’s best not to over-heat. Once defrosted, do not refreeze.
TO PURE INDULGENCE THIS WINTER. w w w. c h a tea ug a tea ux .c o.z a
CHEF SHOWCASE
PAN-AFRICAN CUISINE
BY CHEF COCO
Coco Reinarhz is a Burundian chef and restaurateur who made his name in fine-dining Afro-French fusion cuisine at his restaurants Sel et Poivre and Le Petit Sel Bistro in Johannesburg for ten years until 2016. After closing the two restaurants down almost two years ago, he took an 18-month sabbatical to recharge his batteries, travel around Africa to taste first-hand what the continent’s cuisine consists of, and work on creating a business plan for his dream restaurant. He returned fired up to launch a Pan-African restaurant, Epicure by Chef Coco, that would be equally at home in London, Paris and New York as it is in Johannesburg. No more fusion this time, only authentic dishes from countries in Africa that take diners on a culinary tour of the continent on the plate and palate. He wishes diners ‘bon voyage’ rather than ‘bon appetit’.
E
picure by Chef Coco is a lifetime achievement, says Coco. It’s the product of his reinventing himself and is a tribute to his reputation as an innovative and accomplished chef, restaurateur and businessman. It opened in mid-April and within two weeks of operation it was full house just about every night. Representing a R20-million investment, Epicure is located in Morningside, Sandton, and has
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been “built from scratch” according to Coco’s dreams, plans, ideas, and designs. He had previously been in negotiations with the property owner, but development stopped and everything was put on hold. On Coco’s return to Johannesburg following his African sojourn, new negotiations started and the result is a “dining experience that will translate into Epicure restaurants elsewhere in South Africa and Africa.” He adds, “This type of Pan-African
dining experience is happening across the continent, in Lagos, Nairobi, Luanda, and globally in London, Paris, and New York. We’re already looking to expand the Epicure by Chef Coco brand with another restaurant opening by the end of 2019, and further expansion over the next five years. The fact is that with 15 years’ experience in South Africa, my reputation as a restaurateur and chef is well established, and my name must be synonymous with
CHEF SHOWCASE
I RECALLED CERTAIN PRACTICES FROM THE COUNTRIES THAT I TRAVELLED TO, LIKE HOW DOES SOMEONE IN TANZANIA START THEIR DAY AT HOME – WITH CHAI TEA INFUSED WITH CARDAMOM RATHER THAN COFFEE, ZANZIBARI-STYLE VITUMBUA RICE FLOUR CRUMPETS WITH DATE AND GINGER COMPOTE; AND SO I REINVENTED A MORNING PLATTER. the restaurant and all it offers.” When Coco revisited the property, he immediately envisioned the restaurant, just about in its entirety. “I knew exactly where the kitchen would be, the welcome area, what the view onto the garden would be like, that there would be a private dining room that can seat up to 40, fully equipped with audio/ video for presentations and linked to an independent mini kitchen, what the bar would be like, and more.” He signed the lease and then checked his bank account – there was less than R100, but undeterred, he tracked down supporters, contacts, and potential partners, and the work started. The restaurant is 530m2 in size, including the kitchen, which Coco designed to cater for more than full capacity of 250 seats in the inside,
outside in the garden, on the terrace, in the bar and the private dining room. The Epicure kitchen is open, allowing guests to see the chefs preparing their meals and experience the tantalising aromas from the selection of African spiced dishes on the comprehensive menu that offers breakfast, lunch and dinner. The restaurant is large, with 160 seats inside, but it has been designed to give a sense of intimacy and privacy with different textures, décor, and atmosphere from one corner to the next. The décor is Afro-chic that is upmarket but not clichéd, featuring lots of recycled and reused wood and other materials. The bar is a rum bar – “the next big thing” – and includes high-end rums and a growing collection of African and Caribbean rums and cigars. Coco sees himself as a pioneer
with his type of business and offering, describing Epicure as a “destination restaurant”. It made sense, he says, to launch this high-end Pan African cuisine restaurant in the wealthiest city in Africa. In his African travels over 18 months, he visited 17 countries in Africa, several more than once, “on a journey to make sure that I have the proper taste, or as close as possible. If I talk pepper soup to a Ghanaian or an Ethiopian dish with an Ethiopian we share understanding.” The restaurant is open all day, from 8am to 11pm, attracting diverse communities, South Africans who traditionally eat dinner quite early, to expats and international visitors who don’t. “Something I hate is arriving at a restaurant and having to order because the kitchen closes at 9pm. We have people arriving at 10pm and we serve everybody.”
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CHEF SHOWCASE
FACT FILE • From Bujumbura, Burundi • Studied at Institut Supérieur de Gestion Hoteliere de Namur in Belgium • Former Head Chef at Ma Passion and Château de Sombreffe in Belgium • Worked in Kinshasa, Congo and Abidjan, Ivory Coast • Former chef patron at Sel et Poivre and Le Petit Sel in Johannesburg
SAMPLE MENU MAGHREBI MORNINGS Tunisian-style shakshuka (tomato and roasted pepper paste) baked eggs with Algerian-style merguez lamb
LEISURELY LAGOS Octopus char-grilled in Nigerian suya spices with continental crisps
YASSA YUM YUM Senegalese-style lemon marinated grilled red snapper with a yam purée
PERFECT PEPE West African-style goat meat in pepespiced broth on a bed of plantain fufu
FLIC EN FLAC MAGIC Vadouvan-spiced sea bass with black rice and tamarind
TAJINE CUISINE North African-style lamb or duck or vegetable stews with herbed couscous
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The menu delivers authenticity from one end of the continent to the other. “I recalled certain practices from the countries that I travelled to, like how does someone in Tanzania start their day at home – with chai tea infused with cardamom rather than coffee, Zanzibari-style vitumbua rice flour crumpets with date and ginger compote; and so I reinvented a morning platter.” For lunch and dinner, the menu is relatively similar, and sharing is encouraged with three to five different little dishes for a table of four, representing flavours from different areas. The uniqueness of the overall offering means a lot of discussion and recommending by the Epicure team go into dish selections by guests, which is working very well. “People are really enjoying coming here and travelling to Africa, discovering the continent and being exposed to new tastes, textures, and the look and feel.”
Coco points out that Johannesburg is the economic heart of Africa, yet it has more Italian restaurants at the high end than any African country. “I am striving to deliver the cuisine, plating, and offering of Africa that could be found in a top restaurant anywhere in the world – that’s the objective of this whole development.” The wine list ranges from R170 to R58 000 a bottle (the Chateau Petrus) – Coco believes that people will always look at the next level of wine and often try it. His selection represents his own preference in wines, which is how, as a Pinot Noir wine drinker, he now has the biggest offering of Pinot Noir wines in the country. As far as pricing goes, Coco is careful to adjust his margins from lower-priced wines to top wines. It’s an evolving wine list as trends, tastes, and the wine options change. Enjoying his customers and ensuring that his customers enjoy the experiences he offers is important to Coco, who believes in repeat business. “I’d rather have somebody come to Epicure and spend R100 every day than coming once a month and splashing R3 000. It’s the regulars who make you reinvent yourself and force you to create something different for them. I want that close relationship with them – and will work hard to make sure I have that, with my guests and my staff.”
SPOTLIGHT
BEST BUTCHERIES IN SOUTH AFRICA
The annual Cleaver Awards provides a list of top butcheries around the country, based on quality, hygiene, service and value for money. Susan Reynard reports.
NATIONAL WINNERS OF CLEAVER AWARDS ARE (FRONT): MARIUS JORDAAN (KARAGLEN SUPERSPAR); RUDI OOSTHÜYSE (THE GROVE SUPERSPAR); WALTER ROSSOUW (IMPALA VLEIS). (BACK) ELOFF DU TOIT (KINGS DELI); JOSÉ DE KLERK (WEST END VLEISMARK); BERTUS STEENKAMP (BOMA VLEISMARK). PHOTOGRAPH: YOLANDA VAN DER STOEP
T
he South African Meat Industry Company (SAMIC) announced the winners of this year’s Cleaver Awards on 25 April 2018. The awards programme, now in its 13th year, is the brainchild of Dave Ford, chairman of the Red Meat Industry Forum (RMIF), and is supported by Freddy Hirsch, supplier of industrial spices, casings, and meat-processing equipment. It was launched in 2005 to raise the standards of butcheries to better meet the needs of consumers. SAMIC is a quality assurance company that was formed by RMIF to ensure the quality and safety of meat and is responsible for conducting all of the provincial audits on the top nominated butcheries.
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Dave and the winners reinforced the message that these are team recognition awards. He also congratulated all participants for their commitment and pursuit of best practices in their establishments. Since their launch in 2005, the Cleaver Awards have increasingly served as a seal of approval for butcheries by their customers: butcheries cannot nominate themselves, rather this is done by their customers. Nominations came in from October to December 2017 and more than 30 000 public nominations (compared with 7 500 in 2005) were received via SMS and online. From this number, 105 finalists were individually assessed in unannounced audits against the
same rigorous 212-point checklist. Some of the national winners scored up to 99.8% and repeat winners have increased their scores over the years, indicating why they are much beloved and trusted by their carnivore customers. Rudi van der Westhuizen, executive director of SAMIC, says that the biggest concerns prior to the creation of the awards was the fact that all legislation, including hygiene matters, were in place in the abattoirs and deboning plants, with really high measurable standards. However, once the carcasses or meat cuts left the abattoir premises and are no longer under the jurisdiction of the Meat Safety Act, the quality of the product, especially with regards to hygiene, seemed to take a dip with very little day-to-day law enforcement. He explains, “The National Health Act comes into practice after vehicles with carcasses and meat cuts leave the gates of the abattoirs. This implies that Environmental Health Practitioners of the 53 local authorities in the country need to take responsibility for the handling and selling of the meat at meat outlets. In practice, this is not possible due to the fact that the Environmental Health Practitioners need to enforce the law at all food premises and therefore pay irregular visits to meat outlets.” “The Cleaver Awards was never intended to be a competition but
SPOTLIGHT
ALL THE WINNERS
• Frank’s Meat, Panorama Centre, Middelburg - Gold
Up to 3 tills • Tollies Slaghuis, Hartenbos - Platinum
NATIONAL WINNERS
Meat Market:
• Hartman & Sons Butchery, George - Gold
4 and more tills:
• Crossing Superspar, Nelspruit -
Meat Market:
• Impala Vleis, Brits - Platinum • Kings Meat Deli, Castle Walk,
Platinum • Saveway SuperSpar, Witbank - Gold
• Malmesbury Superspar, Malmesbury Platinum • Plattekloof Superspar, Plattekloof - Gold
Erasmuskloof - Gold Up to 3 tills:
FREE STATE
• West End Vleismark, Kimberley - Platinum
4 and more tills:
KWAZULU-NATAL
• Boma Vleismark, Olympus, Faerie Glen
• Fredilia Meat, Welkom - Platinum
4 and more tills:
• Power Meat Centre, Welkom - Gold
• Bluff Meat Supply, Bluff, Durban -
- Gold Meat Markets:
Up to 3 tills:
• The Grove Superspar Riverside, Nelspruit
• Country Meat, Kroonstad - Platinum
- Platinum • Karaglen SuperSpar, Edenglen - Gold
Meat Market: • Checkers Hyper, Fleurdal, Bloemfontein - Platinum
GAUTENG
Platinum • Bluff Meat Supply, Pinetown, Durban - Gold Up to 3 tills: • Dirk’s Meat Market, Durban North Platinum
4 and more tills:
NORTHERN CAPE
• Boma Vleismark, Moreleta Park - Platinum
4 tills and more:
• Kings Meat Deli, Lynnwoodbridge - Gold
• Angus Butchery, Kuruman - Platinum
Meat Markets:
Up to 3 tills:
Up to 3 tills:
• Pick n Pay, Kingsburgh, Durban -
• Country Meats, Fourways, Jhb - Platinum
• Koki’s Meat Market, Kimberley -
• Forsmay Butchery, Fordsburg - Gold
Platinum
Meat Market:
• Michael Frey’s Fresh Meat, Shelly Beach - Gold
Platinum • Food Lovers Market, Westwood Mall, Westville - Gold
• Uitkyk Vleismark, Silverton - Platinum
EASTERN CAPE
• Tony’s Meat Market, Randfontein - Gold
4 and more tills:
Winners in each category received
• Cuyler Butchery, Uitenhage - Platinum
Platinum Awards and the runners-up
LIMPOPO
Up to 3 tills:
Gold Awards. First prize winners in each
4 and more tills:
• Continental Butchery, Newton Park,
national category received a R20 000 cash
• Vleislapa, Marshalstreet, Polokwane Platinum • Vleislapa, Groblerstreet, Polokwane - Gold
NORTH WEST
PE - Platinum
runners-up received a R10 000 cash prize
Meat Market:
as well as a Gold Cleaver Award Trophy. All
• Sunridge Superspar, Sunridge Park,
of the provincial winners received either a
PE - Platinum
4 and more tills:
• Our Superspar, Walmer, PE - Gold
• Goudkopslaghuis, Klerksdorp - Platinum
• Newtonpark Spar, Newtonpark, PE -
Up to 3 tills:
prize and a Platinum Trophy Award. The
• Marinda Butchery, Westering, PE - Gold
Gold
Platinum or Gold Cleaver Award Trophy in their category. This year, six consumer prizes were awarded to consumers who nominated
• Uitkyk Vleismark, Lichtenburg - Platinum
WESTERN CAPE
one of the six national winners, with each
MPUMALANGA
4 and more tills:
of these winners receiving a Weber braai.
Up to 3 tills:
• Excellent Meat Market, Elsiesriver -
• Frank’s Meat Supply Retail City, Middelburg - Platinum
to make consumers aware of store teams that offer consistently an excellent product and service to their consumers. The annual Cleaver Award calls consumers to action to nominate their favourite
Platinum • Fairfield Meat Centre, Parow - Gold
butcher and the campaign runs until the 31 December after which votes are tallied and a short list of stores across all provinces is compiled,” he explains. Audits are conducted unannounced, using
For more information go to www.
redmeatsa.co.za and www.samic.co.za.
the same standard countrywide. SAMIC is a registered auditor with the South African Auditors and Training Association (SAATCA) and maintains butcher auditing standards by routine training sessions.
33
SPOTLIGHT
AFRICA HOSPITALITY WEEK 2018
Welcome to the new era in hospitality.
A
2018 FEATURES
Africa’s Big 7 has live features designed to inspire new thinking and innovation in the sector.
Inter Hotel Culinary Cup
The Inter Hotel Culinary Cup
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is an exciting new global event taking place in Africa for the very first time. Working with our global chef partners to present this new and very challenging competition, this event will really test our teams which come from leading hotels across Africa.
Global Pizza Challenge
For the first time ever, the Global Pizza Challenge has moved to Africa’s Big 7, the continent’s premier food & beverage show, where passionate independent pizza chefs will demonstrate their gastronomic masterpieces first-hand.
Liquid Africa
A dedicated zone for wines, spirits, cocktails, beers and non-alcoholic beverages. From the latest local creations to the newest international trends with plenty of tasting opportunities. For any bar managers wanting to keep up to date with trends and suppliers – this is for you.
Visitors: • • • • • • • • • • • •
Distributors / agents Hotels / lodges Caterers Food service Food manufacturers Importers / exporters Independent retailers Restaurants and cafes Supermarkets Wholesalers Bars / pubs / clubs Bakeries / butchers / grocers
PRODUCTS TO DISCOVER TECHNOLOGY SOLUTIONS
FOOD • Bakery products
• IT and
• Commodity
software
ingredients
solutions
• Canned food
• Kitchen equipment
• Dried food • Cereals
• Packaging
• Grains
machinery
• Flours
• Packaging materials • Processing machinery and equipment • Refrigeration and air-con for preservation • Retail
• Fish and seafood • Frozen and chilled products • Fruit and vegetables • Meat and poultry (inc. Halal) • Milk and dairy products
technology
• Oils and fats
• Storage and
• Sauces and
warehousing • Transport /
condiments • Snacks
logistics /cold-
• Desserts
chain
• Specialty foods • Sweets and
BEVERAGES • Wine
confectionary
DATES:
• Beer • Spirits
Sunday 24 June
• Health drinks
2018: 10:00 - 17:00
• Energy drinks
Monday 25 June
• Soft drinks
2018: 10:00 - 17:00
• Fruit juices
Tuesday 26 June
• Tea and coffee
2018: 10:00 - 16:00
Smear vector element © freevectors
frica Hospitality Week takes place 24-26th June, the height of purchasing season in South Africa – the power base and gateway to the continent. It is a dedicated threeday international trading platform endorsed by stakeholder industry organisations and comprises three essential exhibitions, namely The Hotel Show, iHost and Africa’s Big 7. Over 15 000 international industry professionals meet at Africa Hospitality Week to source hospitality front and back of house products, services, equipment, supplies, innovations, technology and solutions from hundreds of exhibitors of more than 30 countries. This three-event showcase together with the Hospitality Leadership Forum, Africa’s Hospitality Awards, free training workshops, live features including competitions, jobs and careers are all supported by key publication brands together with over 20 different global media partners. Latest cutting-edge innovations, new ideas and products, trends, insight and future thinking, ensures Africa Hospitality Week is the go-to event in the calendar in Africa.
FEATURE
IMAGE COURTESY OF UCOOK © SETH ZWORESTINE
FOOD DELIVERY
DRIVEN BY TECH AND TRENDS Food delivery – from fine-dining and fastfood to frozen and fresh ingredients – is on the rise as consumers look for new, innovative ways to dine. Susan Reynard reports.
F
ood delivery systems are in a race to gain market share of South African stomachs and wallets. This highly competitive, high-tech space features variety and sophistication that services consumers, restaurateurs and couriers.
E-commerce
UberEATS’ business development and product manager, David Kitley, notes how technology innovation
36
continues to add value in the food delivery industry. In his presentation at Host-Ed during the Food & Hospitality Africa/Hostex expo held in Johannesburg in May, he discussed UberEATS restaurant and strategic partnerships and product growth. In 2014, the UberFRESH pilot went live in Los Angeles; in 2015 the UberEATS app was launched; and during the next three years the app went global. UberEATS is now available
in more than 200 cities in over 30 countries, partnering with 80 000 restaurants and growing. In South Africa, the service has more than 1 700 restaurant partners; the app has been downloaded 700 000 times; it covers 1 794km2 across Johannesburg, Pretoria, Cape Town, Stellenbosch and Durban; average delivery time is 35 minutes; and the most popular food choices are cheeseburgers, margherita pizza and salmon fashion sandwiches.
e1s
FEATURE
David says the system works to connect consumers, restaurants and delivery partners. “Eaters have access to good food every day; restaurants have access to the knowledge and resources that can help them succeed; and delivery partners have access to flexible, stressfree work,” he explains. Meal
recommendations are tailored to users’ dining habits and users can filter restaurants on the app to find the food they want quickly and easily, factoring in price and dietary requirements. Restaurants reviewed by locals generate a rating, so it’s easy to find the best dining spots in a particular location.
revenue streams for businesses and offering flexible ways to earn money for drivers or couriers. UberEATS is also looking into partnering with other synergistic service providers, such as caterers and cake specialists.
IMAGES COURTESY OF UBEREATS
Drop-off can also be customised to suit customers’ exact location, such as a local park, promenade or party destination. Users can also schedule orders in advance, to ensure delivery at specific times. The service caters for both experiential and practical eating, without compromising on choice, budget or convenience. Linked to Uber drivers, David says they approached UberEATS by looking at what else can be achieved at the touch of button. Saving and unlocking time for consumers is at the heart of the business model, together with creating additional
38
Technology supporting restaurants includes a dedicated tablet with restaurant dashboard and manager system that generates a number of useful reports containing vital ordering data and customer feedback, including: • Service quality: Are customers happy with the speed, dish presentation and customer service? • Customer satisfaction: Is the Pad Thai, for example, too spicy or not spicy enough? Are your topselling items getting consistent feedback? Are new items popular or need to be tweaked? • Sales optimisation: When is demand up or down? Should you open for longer or get in extra staff during busy periods?
FEATURE
IMAGE COURTESY OF MR D FOOD © LOOPFILMS
IMAGE COURTESY OF UCOOK © SETH ZWORESTINE
Large local footprint
“Mr D Food has the largest geographic footprint of any of the online food-delivery businesses and we service over 1 900 suburbs throughout SA including all primary and secondary cities,” says Devin Sinclair, head of Mr D Food, part of online retailer takealot.com. “The Mr D Food business is growing rapidly. It has more than doubled in the past year in terms of the number of orders processed per month, restaurants on the platform and number of registered customers. We currently have over 500 000 users and over 2 000 restaurants listed on the platform, ranging from local favourites to South Africa’s biggest restaurant brands such as KFC, Spur, RocoMamas, Steers and Nando’s.” Devin says that this growth is being driven by the adoption of smartphones, the ease of use of the Mr D Food app and the fact that consumers are increasingly time poor. “Technology has revolutionised the food-delivery
industry and our sophisticated technology enables us to provide a consistent and efficient service – with an average delivery time of just 34 minutes – which keeps customers coming back,” he notes. “The online food delivery space is certainly an extremely competitive market. We believe that to succeed in our market, the most important thing is to provide an excellent customer experience and to consistently deliver high standards of service,” he says. “The biggest benefit to restaurants is the incremental revenue stream. Without having to add any fixed overheads to their business, restaurants can grow their revenues by joining our delivery platform. We of course also remove the cost and hassle of a restaurant trying to run a delivery service themselves,” he says. “Secondly, restaurants gain significant exposure by appearing
in our app, used by hundreds of thousands of people every month. We’ve made the sign up and on boarding process simple and quick, so we don’t see any significant challenges for a restaurant to join Mr D Food. Something restaurants should pay attention to when joining a delivery service is their food packaging for delivery orders. Correct packaging ultimately provides the end customer with a better food experience.” “Restaurants join our platform on the basis of our competitively priced fee structure, the size of our customer base and our focus on customer service to both the restaurants and the end customer. We also have the benefit of being the only service that offers customers the option to pay with cash on delivery – an appealing choice for many SA consumers,” Devin notes.
UCOOK MOTHER’S DAY BOX © SETH ZWORESTINE
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FEATURE
IMAGE COURTESY OF UCOOK
Cooking made easy
UCOOK is a service that delivers a kit of ingredients plus recipes to a customer’s home or office each week, based on their choices from nine seasonal recipes in three categories, so that they can cook with ease and master new techniques. Timothy Stirrup, head of product and procurement at UCOOK, explains: “We have a few criteria that we keep in mind when selecting suppliers. We like to support sustainable, local farms and we work hard to make sure that we have traceability on our products. We partner with brands that offer a level of transparency regarding their business practice and smaller, more unique brands to keep the offering fresh and relevant. We use UCOOK as a platform for smaller, niche brands to showcase their products. All our meat is free-range and we attempt to get in as much organic produce on a weekly basis as possible. For the moment, we have two warehouses; one in Cape Town and one in Johannesburg. We source our ingredients in Cape Town and Johannesburg respectively, however the products exclusive to
40
each city are freighted between.” “We have a spectacular food team and have just taken on a new head chef, Jason Kosmas, who has previously worked as head chef of Chef’s Warehouse & Canteen. We often work with guest chefs, such as Liam Tomlin and Franck Dangereux, to bring an exciting twist to our menus.” “One of our founding concepts is that the service will always be about you learning how to do new and exciting things in the kitchen to spice up your weekly meal planning. We’re working on a diverse range of dinner solutions in addition to our dinner-kit delivery service. We have many exciting plans for the latter part of the year!” “Our biggest market is couples, usually between the age of 27 and 37, as UCOOK is the perfect solution for people who spend all day at work and don’t have time to think about what they’ll be eating for dinner. The service caters for those people wanting lovely fresh ingredients to cook from scratch.” “One of the prominent philosophies driving us is sourcing from local, ethical, small-scale
suppliers that are transparent with their operations and employ sustainable, responsible methods. In addition, we are inspired by the opportunity to expose the South African market to global food trends using exciting local chefs as well as cutting-edge restaurants.”
Farm-fresh to your door
The Munching Mongoose started by Brad Meiring nearly four years ago taps into South Africans’ growing appetite for healthy and organic food and ingredients. Brad says food is intrinsically linked to health and happiness, with consumers across income groups increasingly wanting to know where their food comes from. In his presentation at Food & Hospitality Africa/Hostex, when discussing food and suppliers he used words like authenticity; honest; real; transparency; accountability; loyalty; ethical; clean; green; and sustainable. The Munching Mongoose incorporates these values across its supply chain, from farm to fork. The company brings the farmers’ market to their customers’ door in a food box delivery service.
FEATURE
THE COMPANY BRINGS THE FARMERS’ MARKET TO THEIR CUSTOMERS’ DOOR IN A FOOD BOX DELIVERY SERVICE. THE MUNCHING MONGOOSE MINI BAG ©DOUGLAS HOLDER
THE MUNCHING MONGOOSE WAS STARTED BY BRAD MEIRING © MARIUS DU PLOOY
©DOUGLAS HOLDER
Customers choose from five different types of boxes, which include a range of locally produced, quality and artisanal ingredients such as fruits and vegetables; milk; eggs; cheese; bread; plus a surprise artisanal product such as condiments. Delivery options include weekly, bi-weekly and monthly and packaging is reusable. Boxes can be customised to include more or less of any particular item to suit the family needs. The website has a wide range of recipes to inspire customers on creating interesting dishes. Brad says a cauliflower takes 100 days to grow from seed to harvest, followed by sorting, packaging and transporting to market before it goes into a customer’s shopping basket. He is passionate about educating people on how important it is to know more about and respect organic ingredients, and not to waste them. While organic certification is not fully legislated in South Africa like other countries overseas and remains a costly business, he gets to know his suppliers, walks the farms, and is impressed with what craft suppliers are doing in small spaces to produce quality products.
USEFUL WEBSITES www.ucook.co.za www.orderin.co.za www.mrdfood.com www.frozenforyou.co.za www.ubereats.com/blog/en-ZA/ www.munchingmongoose.co.za
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NEWS
CHEF REUBEN RIFFEL (LEFT), NICK SARNADAS, SPECIALISED EXHIBITIONS MONTGOMERY (CENTRE) SA CHEFS PRESIDENT JAMES KHOZA (RIGHT)
ACTION STATIONS AT THE SKILLERY
SA Chefs had another successful Hostex/Food & Hospitality Africa expo at Gallagher Convention Centre in May with loads of live action at The Skillery.
T
he annual Hostex/Food & Hospitality Africa expo organised by Specialised Exhibitions Montgomery is a showcase for culinary talent. SA Chefs hosted an excellent three days at The Skillery and their adjacent stand this year, both a hive of activity, demonstrations, competitions and networking. President James Khoza officially opened The Skillery on 6 May and invited visitors to “celebrate who we are as chefs”. The skilful work of Raynor Damons (Gauteng committee chairman from Famous Brands) and Stephen Hickmore (from HSC), with their crowd skills and culinary knowledge, ensured guest chefs and visitors had fun while learning about products, techniques and trends. Just some of the demonstrations by some of South Africa’s favourite chefs included: Reuben Riffel of
42
Reuben’s Franschhoek and Racine’s Restaurant; Kabelo Segone, Sizwe Cebekhulu and Given Nefumembe from HTA School of Culinary Art; David Williams from Radisson Blu Gautrain; Vonique van Zyl from Radisson Blu Sandton; Fungai Muzorewa from Mac Brothers; Tshepang Mabe from SA Chefs; Raynor Damons and Chad Manuel from Famous Brands; Adrian Vaughan from Sun International; and Coovashan Pillay from Protea Hotel by Marriott OR Tambo Airport. Pop quizzes and spot prizes were popular with the crowds. Thomas Overbeck, general manager of SA Chefs, says, “It was an incredible event. We had great fun, meeting and greeting old friends and making new friends, interacting with chefs – it’s a very important event for SA Chefs every year, not
only in recognising and uplifting competitors and young people, but culminating in the bursary given to one deserving youngster. It’s very gratifying to be in the kitchens and watching peoples’ lives change and the impact that Hostex has on everybody who visits. We’re excited to see the expo is moving back to Sandton Convention Centre in 2020.”
BRYAN MONTGOMERY BURSARY AWARDED
International Hotel School student, Precious Matseke (26), was awarded the Bryan Montgomery Bursary. The bursary offers financial support of R35 000 towards tuition fees at an SA Chefs-approved culinary institution. Matseke, who stays with her mother and sister in Mabopane, Tshwane was awarded the bursary because of her remarkable potential and hunger for success.
NEWS
PRESIDENTS CUP WINNER, SIYABULELA KOBO
LUCKY STAR WINNER, WESLEY CAMERON
PICTURED HERE (FROM LEFT): KABELO SEGONE (VICE PRESIDENT SA CHEFS), JAMES KHOZA (PRESIDENT SA CHEFS), NICK SARNADAS (PORTFOLIO DIRECTOR: FOOD & HOSPITALITY AFRICA, HOSTEX), PRECIOUS MATSEKE (BRYAN MONTGOMERY BURSARY WINNER) AND THOMAS OVERBECK (GENERAL MANAGER SA CHEFS).
LUCKY STAR INNOVATIONS SENIOR WINNER Wesley Cameron won the Lucky Star Innovations Senior Competition and a cheque for R20 000.
NYCTP CHAMPION GRADUATES COMPETITION Winner and runners-up of the NYCTP Champion Graduates competition were: • Winner: Zolani Ntsumpa (R10 000 prize) • Second place: Sikhumbuzo Thwala (R5 000 prize) • Third place: Zoe Maseko (R2 500 prize)
Chief Director of the Department of Tourism, Bulelwa Seti, paid a visit to The Skillery in support of the National Youth Chefs Training Programme (NYCTP) competition on her way to the Tourism Indaba in Durban, to give students some words of encouragement. Hudson
Masondo, Project Coordinator of the NYCTP, introduced the six participants in the NYCTP Champion Graduates Competition.
PRESIDENT’S CUP
Chefs entering the President’s Cup competition were required to enter their signature, showpiece, six-course tasting menu with photographs on their entry form. Six finalists had five hours to recreate their menus of starter and main course during Food & Hospitality Africa, presenting three of each plate, two for tasting and one for display. Judges looked for taste, presentation, complexity and sustainability in the chefs’ dishes. This year’s competition was won by Siyabulela Kobo who was presented with the grand prize of R10 000. Fellow competitors included: Sizwe Cebekhulu; Andile Somdaka; Xanthos Giannakopoulos; Warren Frantz; and Mahlomola Thamae.
VOTE OF THANKS
The Association is once again grateful to all its sponsors and partners who assisted in hosting a successful Hostex 2018. They include: Avanti; Barron; BRM; Cape Wine Academy; Excella; Gearhouse; Gemini; HSC; Huletts; Lucky Star; MacBrothers; Makro; Nature’s Choice; Nestle Professional; NYCTP; Parmalat; Pick n Pay; Rich’s; Sir Fruit; Snappy Chef; Specialised Exhibitions; Tiger Brands; Tramontina; Tsebo; Tsogo Sun; Willowton; and Wilmar. And from the Association, a big thank you to the Academy of Chefs; Young Chefs Club; National Culinary Squad; directors; committee members; head office team; Centre for Culinary Excellence; and most importantly our members, many of whom travelled great distances to share their knowledge, skills and passion to keep it cooking during the show.
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NEWS
BRAAI MASTERS UNITE! The Fire & Feast Festival held in Johannesburg in June was a sensory celebration of South Africans’ favourite pastime, the braai.
T
he Fire & Feast Meat Festival presented by Crown National was held at Ticketpro Dome in Randburg, Johannesburg from 8 to 10 June. It was a celebration of South African families’ favourite outdoor activities of braai and fire, meat and music. The festival was also an opportunity to learn new skills as an impressive line-up of chefs from different backgrounds demonstrated their skills and mastery of the braai to ensure maximum flavour. SA Chefs was represented by a number of its top chefs, led by Coo Pillay. The Association showcased its home-grown chefs and their fine products from various hotels and restaurants. Thomas Overbeck, general manager of the Association, says, “The exposure was great, even though at times quick thinking and amazing chefs were needed to do demonstrations in the absence of duly committed guys. This was one of the success stories, as we never failed to deliver a demo and people like the chairman of the Gauteng Committee, Raynor Damons, jumped in and blew the audience away! Whether beef, pork or chicken, the audience was spellbound. Raynor also applied his incredible talent of compering some of the events, enticing people to visit the various activities. This
44
included commentating on the Chilli Eating Competition, which had people choking just watching, challenging the competitors into an exciting contest. The sensitive care with which he looked after the contestants that really suffered from the effects of eating a Habanero (amongst other chillies) was amazing and he is truly a fine ambassador for our Association as a whole.” Past president and owner of HTA School of Culinary Art, Stephen Billingham, gave a huge shout out to the many young trainee chefs and students who gave up their weekend to volunteer their services at the expo. “I want to hear that you are entering again next year or the year after; I want you to volunteer, to stand out from the herd, to go the extra mile, to say: ‘Chef, what can I do to help? Chef, I’ve done that, what else can I do for you?’ To sacrifice a weekend is quite a commitment so I’m here to say thank you so much for your hard work and dedication. I’m sure your feet are sore: put your feet in cold water, rub cream on them and look after your feet,” he said. Other features during the threeday event included the Sparta Beef Theatre; Poultry Theatre by Country Fair and Festive; Sappo
Pork Tasting Room; Lamb and Mutton SA Theatre; BRM Brands Bistro; Braaitology Brought to You by Chad-O-Chef; MyBraai Meat and Wine Pairing Theatre; craft beer bar; wine tasting zone; gin bar; Jack Daniels Whiskey bar, restaurant and man cave; and live entertainment. For images and video clips of all the chefs, action and edutainment, go to the SA Chefs Facebook and Instagram pages.
BAKERS COMPLEMENT THE BRAAIS The SA Bakers Association took part in the Fire & Feast Festival. It was an opportunity to promote the Association as well as demonstrate baking and confectionery skills and actively teach some of the cooking students basic baking skills. The team was led by Vice-President Henri Lebon, from Romax Bakery in Boksburg, who was assisted by four Capsicum students, pictured with Henri: Lungelo, Shardonay, Thando and Keneiloe, as well as senior members of the Association. There was a wide range of pastries, rolls, croissants and focaccia produced on the stand that were given out as tasters to the show visitors. For more information go to www.sabakers.co.za.
SANDERS SOUTH AFRICA
VILLEROY & BOCH
HOSPITALITY RANGE
Sanders South Africa introduce Villeroy & Boch’s Premium Hospitality Range. With offices based in Cape Town, we offer this premium brand of tableware, cutlery and glass collections, to the Hotel and Restaurant market within the Southern Hemisphere.
E
ver since the founding of Villeroy & Boch’s Hotel & Restaurant division in 1980, the Premium Porcelain and Premium Bone Porcelain hotel tableware from Villeroy & Boch has enjoyed an excellent reputation among hoteliers and restaurateurs throughout the world. It combines high-quality standards with distinctive designs, thus providing the ideal setting for international culinary creations. The tableware is complemented by highquality cutlery in stainless steel 18/10, robust glassware and diverse accessories, all of which more than live up to the demands of professional use. Villeroy & Boch equips restaurants and hotels throughout the world with premium quality tableware and also offers comprehensive services specially honed to cater for the needs of the professional sector.
Sanders South Africa
Guaranteed premium quality
Tableware from Villeroy & Boch embodies the highest quality from the careful selection of only the best raw materials, to the lead-free and very even double-fired glazes and non-toxic décor colours, to the innovative production techniques that enable the realisation of unusual designs – and all this under strict compliance with the EcoManagement and Audit Scheme EMAS and the International Environmental Management Standard ISO 14001. The result is porcelain of the best “Made in Germany” quality. Extreme robustness in everyday use is guaranteed by dishwashersafe, salamander-safe and microwave-safe properties. Furthermore, the distinctive quality of the material renders the porcelain so tolerant to mechanical stress that Villeroy & Boch offers a ten-year guarantee on the chip resistance of hotel-tableware collections made of Premium Porcelain.
thesofterside.co.za
Skilful design for pure individuality
Hotel tableware by Villeroy & Boch is also distinguished by its first-rate design, with extravagant shapes, strong colours and décor highlighting the quality of culinary offerings. Furthermore, our Hospitality range provides a creative design service: Custom Made Solutions. Here, porcelain, cutlery and glasses are adorned with brand marks, logos, emblems, house colours, slogans and the like. The experienced Villeroy & Boch design team are also happy to create special individual décors to give porcelain a unique and exclusive character. For more information, contact Sanders South Africa.
086 123 4448 45
KFOOD ANTENNA SHOP
DAIRY IS SCARY,
THIS MILK S LIKE SILK Our almond and soy milk is the perfect, delicious alternative to your traditional dairy milk and is perfect for those who are lactose intolerant, but is still high in calcium.
YONSEI SOYMILK
PRODUCT WITH THE MOST SOYMILK CONTENT OUT THERE
OTHER BRANDS
YONSEI SOYMILK out of 1L bottle there is only ±20ml - 70ml soy content
with Yonsei Soymilk ±180ml out of 200ml is pure soy content
S
oy milk as well as our traditional Almond & Pine Nut milk has a plethora of nutritional benefits without causing IBS which is one of the most common illnesses that some people attain from drinking dairy. It’s smooth to the taste and delicious in hot or cold drinks and can also be enjoyed simply on its own. Yonsei University’s faculty members are committed to innovative R&D, continuing to place fresher, healthier milk on the table through production managements of its exclusive farms and factories. All our profits are used to educational financial resources in Yonsei University. Using Yonsei’s unique technology, the hulls of the soybeans are initially removed, then the soy pulp (or soybean curd residue) is ground completely without throwing away any nutrients, to make the healthiest and best tasting soy milk. Yonsei’s soy milk only uses
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YONSEI SOYMILK the NON GMO beans for production and also includes essential amino acids, as well as Vitamin D 3, which helps with calcium absorption. Yonsei Dairy’s products are the first to receive the HACCP certification for soy milk, has received the first verification for organic soy milk, as well as receiving certification of ISO9000 as well as FCSS22000.
WE HAVE THE FOLLOWING FLAVOURS: •
sesame seed is a powerful food which the Chinese have learnt to use for many health-promoting and anti-aging benefits •
Almonds - Almonds have extensive health benefits, and they are frequently used as a healthy
These soymilk products are available at the following stores:
KFOOD Antenna Shop (Belair Superspar, Hobart Superspar, Broadacres Superspar), Kokoro Rivonia (G5, Rivonia Junction Centre), Kokoro Fourways (Leaping Frog Shopping Centre), and Kokoro Pretoria (Brooklyn Centre, 751 Jan Shoba Street, Brooklyn, Pretoria) Tel (Head Office): +27 11 608 3050
Black Sesame Seed - The black
solution for relief from constipation, respiratory disorders, coughs, heart disorders, anaemia, impotency, and diabetes. •
Black Soybean - Therapeutic effects: replenishes blood levels, nourishing yin, expels wind, strengthens weakened, normalizes the activity of the channels of stomach and spleen.
0860 111 MAC | www.macbrothers.co.za
AMEREX, THE QUALITY IS BEHIND THE DIAMOND Mac Brothers Catering Equipment are the sole importers of the Amerex range of fire-protection products for Sub-Saharan Africa and the Indian Ocean Islands.
The range consists of the most advanced and comprehensive restaurant kitchen, vehicle and industrial fire suppression systems as well as standard fire extinguishers and specialised fire prevention solutions. Amerex endeavours to continually improve the products on offer to meet the ever-changing demands of the industry. All systems are manufactured to UL approved standards and are certified under various UL listings. We have dedicated internationally trained and certified technicians, ensuring all installations are of the highest standard and to UL specifications. Amerex reduces the risk of fire, thereby saving money, down time and loss of income; ensuring peace of mind in any business where fire is a hazard. Why not let Mac Brothers and Amerex give you peace of mind?
Silent, hidden, waiting and watching for even the slightest fire threat. Plus, COBRATM is the first commercial kitchen fire-suppression system from Amerex is ready to strike in seconds. Contemporary stainless steel design throughout the system complements sleek kitchen appliances. 60” nozzle heights don’t interfere with cooking, and the system easily adapts to kitchen and appliance recognfiguration. Plus, COBRA™ is the first commercial kitchen fire suppression system with fully electronic detection, actuation, and pressure monitoring – the NEW STRIKE™ Electronic Control System.
Enquire about our many offerings and options tailor-made for your application. CAPE TOWN (HEAD OFFICE)
JOHANNESBURG
DURBAN
32 Benbow Ave, Epping 1, Cape Town, 8001, South Africa
138 Terrace Road, Sebenza Edenvale, Johannesburg, 1609, South Africa.
Unit 2, Heron Park, 80 Corobrick Road, Riverhouse Valley, Redhill, Durban, 4051
Tel: +27 21 505 4100 Fax: +27 021 534 0319
Tel: +27 11 456 9000 Fax: +27 11 456 9006
Tel: +27 31 569 5216
REGIONAL SPOTLIGHT
EIGHT AT SPIER
PANO E VINO
SAVOURING STELLENBOSCH’S ’
CULINARY SENSATIONS Stellenbosch offers its many visitors everything from upmarket fine-dining experiences to charming coffee shops, with a wide range of delicious eats in between. Natasha Skoryk explores this unofficial capital of the Western Cape’s wine country.
F
ounded in 1679, Stellenbosch has long been established as a prime destination for everyone from holidaymakers, viticulturists and wine aficionados, scholars, and business people, to those in search of escape from big city life. The town is renowned for its many award-winning wine estates, the well-preserved traditional Cape Dutch architecture of the city centre, and, of course, the busy swarms of students milling about the town and its surrounds. While there are plenty of walking tours, outdoor adventures, art galleries and other cultural activities, tourists to the area can most look forward
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abundance of food and wine-centric experiences, which are bound to satisfy any – and every – palate.
VINEYARD EXPERIENCES
Situated at the heart of wine country, Stellenbosch is arguably most famous for its beautiful wine estates. The town is the birthplace of Pinotage – a unique varietal, with hints of cherry from the Pinot Noir and earthiness from the Cinsaut. Additionally, Stellenbosch is famed for its Cabernet Sauvignon, Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc. If you’re looking to taste the local wines and grab a bite to eat, explore one of the following venues.
Spier
With plenty on the estate to do, Spier can easily serve as the location for a full weekend getaway. It features several beloved eateries. The first of these is Eight at Spier, a seasonal farm-to-table restaurant which welcomes the whole family. The Hotel Restaurant offers fine dining and regional specialties, and Spier Farm Kitchen creates customised picnics to enjoy outdoors on the estate (presumably with a bottle of the estate’s wine!) In September 2018, Vadas Smokehouse & Bakery will be added to the Spier
REGIONAL SPOTLIGHT
family, promising a casual, cosy and undoubtedly smoky option. More info: www.spier.co.za
Rust en Vrede
Since its opening in 2008, Rust En Vrede’s restaurant has placed in the Elite Traveller with Laurent Perrier’s Top 100 Restaurants in the World. Housed in the original cellar of the estate, they serve exquisite set menus – either in four course or six course varieties. For a particularly special experience, request the Estate Experience Menu when placing a reservation. This is a four to five hour food and wine journey that is designed individually for each order and is simply unforgettable. More info: www.rustenvrede.com
Jordan
If you’re in the mood for a simple, quick meal in between tastings on the Stellenbosch Wine Route, The Bakery at Jordan offers the perfect spot. They serve charcuterie, homemade breads, dips, artisanal cheeses and a range of homely meals of the day. Meanwhile, for a slower gastronomical experience, Jordan Restaurant offers three or five course set menus, which can be paired with the state wines, and are designed around seasonal ingredients. More info: www.jordanwines.com
The Table at De Meye
This boutique, family-owned winery houses the phenomenal restaurant The Table. Open for lunch, they serve a brand new three-course set menus every week – and so promise that you will not eat the same meal there twice. A major focus here is on sustainability. Ingredients are sourced from the farm itself and nearby surrounds; hence the constantly changing menus. The owners’ attention to minimising environmental impact has been noted in the
industry, as The Table became the first winner of the Eat Out Woolworths Sustainability Award. More info: www.thetablerestaurant.co.za
Hidden Valley Wines
Chef Owner Bertus Basson has worked hard to establish Overture’s reputation as a leading culinary destination in the winelands. The restaurant offers a three course or six course dinner option, and a small a la carte menu at lunchtime. Basson has drawn on his childhood food memories in creating the menus here – so expect to find refined, gourmet menu items side-by-side with meals that come straight off a braai. While here, take a wander round the estate, and visit Willie Botha’s beautiful Sculpture Studio. For a more casual meal, order a picnic or a cheese and charcuterie platter at the estate’s tasting room. More info: www.dineatoverture.co.za
EIGHT AT SPIER
BARTINNEY WINE © WWW.COETZERPHOTO.COM
GRABBING A DRINK?
distinctive Brampton Lager and
When you’re in the mood for a drink or
is the perfect venue for a couple
two, these Stellenbosch watering holes
of drinks.
are guaranteed to quench your thirst and
More info: www.brampton.co.za
improve your mood.
BALBOA BALCONY BAR BARTINNEY WINE & CHAMPAGNE BAR
A charming, upmarket cocktail bar
Whether you would like to casually sip
intimate atmosphere for a romantic
on the Bartinney flagship or Noble
date. That said, the live music ups
Savage range of wines or celebrate
the ante and makes it suitable for a
a special occasion with a bottle of
social night as well.
in the town’s CBD, which provides an
Methode Cap Classique (or French
More info: www.facebook.com/
Champagne), this eclectic bar can
BalboaBalconyBar
deliver. They are also licensed for off consumption, meaning you can take
THE HAPPY OAK
your favourite wine home with you.
If you want to see how the current
More info: www.bartinney.co.za
crop of students live (and party), pop into the Happy Oak. They serve
BRAMPTON WINE STUDIO
a wide range of beers, and have
This chic space serves the full range
massive happy hour specials.
of Brampton wines, as well as the
More info: www.thehappyoak.co.za
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REGIONAL SPOTLIGHT
GOURMET EATS IN TOWN
If you’re staying in the town itself – rather than on the outskirts where the estates tend to be – you’d be remiss not to explore at least one of the following venues, which offer delectable delights in easily accessible spots.
Fat Butcher
Few steakhouses can compare with the Fat Butcher. Whether you choose one of the restaurant’s signature steaks, one of their prime cuts or a dry aged steak prepared to your liking, carnivores are bound to leave with their taste buds thoroughly satiated. Your thirst is also guaranteed to be quenched: there is an extensive cellar wine list, a range of craft beers on offer and a number of craft gins available. More info: www.fatbutcher.co.za
Helena’s Restaurant
Located inside the five-star Coopmanhuijs Boutique Hotel & Spa, Helena’s Restaurant aims to make ‘heritage food’ spectacular once again, through attention to fine details and the daring addition of contemporary quirks. The idea here is to revitalise Cape classics, so expect beloved dishes like Karoo lamb, Saldanha Bay mussels and springbok loin – but with unexpected surprises. More info: www.helenasrestaurant.co.za
Spek & Bone
A second Bertus Basson restaurant in Stellenbosch, Spek & Bone, is well worth a visit. Situated in the town proper, they serve a range of ambrosial ‘wine bites’ (charcuterie, olives, cheese and so forth) and gourmet tapas. The focus here is on South African flavours which bring out the complexity of beloved local wines. More info: www.spekenbone.com
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STEAM CHEESCAKE
NOT ONLY IS THERE SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE TO EAT AT STEAM: IT IS WELL WORTH A VISIT JUST FOR THE INSTAGRAM PICTURES THE THEME OFFERS.
Jardine Restaurant
Situated in the heart of Stellenbosch’s old town, Jardine is easily accessible and yet offers complex, interesting dishes for the discerning palate. There is an a la carte lunch menu – which is updated daily – and a two or three course set menu option for dinner. The bar staff have created a range of delicious aperetifs to spur on your appetite before a meal; the Clementine and Rooibos Sour, in particular, is a highlight. More info: www.restaurantjardine.co.za
Pano e Vino
While this little restaurant is hidden on the somewhat industrial Distillery Street, rather than in the quaint town proper, it is a must visit for fans of authentic, traditional Italian cooking. Expect to find a chalkboard menu, updated daily. They do a phenomenal grappa tasting and, if you have a sweet tooth, don’t shy away from their dolci offerings. More info: www.dallacia.com
CASUAL EATERIES
Should you be after a quick meal, or simply wish to wile away an afternoon in a pleasantly informal setting, Stellenbosch has plenty of suitable spots for you to consider.
Craft
An artisan bistro, with a massive range of craft beers, craft gins and wines on offer, Craft is the perfect spot to grab lunch or a couple of drinks. The menu consists of fusion tapas, flammkuchen, pizzas and burgers… In short, it’s the perfect menu to pair with such an extensive drinks list! More info: www.craftwheatandhops.com
Steam
This steampunk-themed restaurant is not only committed to its idiosyncratic premise, but also to creating an interesting and filling menu. They are open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and serve a range of items: from burgers, salads, wraps and quiche to meat dishes and ‘chef’s specials’. The gin cocktails
REGIONAL SPOTLIGHT
DE WARENMARKT
are divine. And not only is there something for everyone to eat: it is well worth a visit just for the Instagram pictures the theme offers. More info: www.restaurantwebexpert. com/Steam_Restaurant
Blue Crane & Butterfly
Known primarily for its in-house roastery, Blue Crane & Butterfly
serve a range of breakfasts, light lunches, sweet treats and savoury snacks. While the coffee is a definite highlight, they are licensed and serve a range of craft beers, ciders and local wines as well. In short, this is the perfect spot for a lazy brunch. More info: www.bluecraneandbutterfly.co.za
De Warenmarkt
Trendy De Warenmarkt is host to several casual eateries. These include The Kitchen, which serves a whole host of menu items, including breakfasts, tapas, meals and desserts. For the not-so-hungry, there is the Kaapse Vonkel MCC and Oyster Bar, which does bubbly and oyster pairings (these can
be ordered at The Kitchen as well!) It is also worth visiting De Warenmarkt for the stores tucked inside, where you can load up on goodies to take home. More info: www.dewarenmarkt.com
Oppie Dorp Restaurant
Oppie Dorp is an unpretentious restaurant serving great food – with an emphasis on local ingredients. Aside from delicious gourmet pizzas, you’ll find items like biltong salad, Karoo lamb and a homely Oxtail on the menu. Vegetarians need not worry; there are well-priced pasta and risottos that cater to their dietary requirements. The emphasis is on upmarket food in a fun, casual setting that the entire family can enjoy. More info: www.oppiedorp.co.za
CHEF SHOWCASE
THE MANY LIVES
OF JAN
Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen is a master of many crafts and believes this is the secret to his success. He chatted to Susan Reynard during a recent trip to South Africa for the launch of Jan the Journal.
J
an Hendrik van der Westhuizen is a busy creative. In addition to his eponymous Michelinstar restaurant in Nice, France, he launched his inaugural, biannual Jan the Journal on 9 May 2018, following on from his first television show last year, and is a curious, travelling, epicurean storyteller.
PUBLISHING
Jan the Journal is a luxury bi-annual publication that reflects the many facets of this famous young chef, with 250 pages dedicated to recipes, lifestyle, photography, travel, professional and home cooking, culinary information, products and profiles. Issue 1 is split into six sections: The Table, The Land, The City, The Coast, The Outdoors and The Village. Jan Hendrik says that the Journal is able to keep up with food trends and is better able to reflect his current thinking around food than a traditional cookbook, of which he is also a fan. Jan Hendrik is a firm believer in the value of the “slash generation” – people who work in a variety of specialist fields at once, hence a slash between their different roles – and is fascinated by the variety of interests that appeal to people in creative professions. “What I really want to tell chefs is that it’s ok to do more than one thing. It’s fine to not just be a chef for the rest of your life. It’s
52
ok to be a photographer, an artist, a writer. All of these things eventually come together and bring in inspiration from outside world,” he explains.
SOCIAL MEDIA
Jan Hendrik is social media savvy. “If someone posts a picture of a plate of food and they tag me, we pick it up immediately at the restaurant and check that the table has sufficient light. Rather than discouraging people from taking photos of our dishes, we provide the tools they need to benefit us all. We also offer a service whereby diners have access to stunning, downloadable, professional photographs of all of the dishes they have just enjoyed, ideal for sharing online,” he explains.
TRENDS
While Jan Hendrik is not a fan of referring to culinary evolution as trends, he highlights a few: • Return of the dinner party: The Journal starts with a ten-course dinner party with all courses clearly detailed, including one to remove and rest, music playlists, and tips for the host or hostess to achieve maximum enjoyment for guests. • Etiquette is coming back: “Life has become too fast, quick, instant, disposable. To have a beautiful, sitdown, ten-course meal that’s light and beautifully orchestrated is the life we should be going back to.”
CHEF JAN HENDRIK
AT A GLANCE 1. Founder of JAN the restaurant in Nice, France 2. SA’s first Michelin-star chef since 2016 3. Published author, artist and photographer 4. Advanced Diploma in Culinary Arts; Masters in Pastry; and Bachelor’s Degree in Applied Design with focus on photography 5. Loves Cape Town and winelands of Stellenbosch, and worked in SA wines 6. Was contributing food editor and stylist at ELLE South Africa when Jackie Burger was editor and worked in the test kitchens of ELLE International in Paris 7. Co-founded COORD Event Direction and launched Champagne PIAFF in Épernay, France 8. Grew up on a farm in Mpumalanga 9. Inspired by the cooking of his mother and grandmother 10. First cookbook he bought was the beautiful “Europe’s Master Chefs”
CHEF SHOWCASE
• Presentation innovation: He uses old fashioned portraits as platters and presents mignardises as a crown or garment on the person in the image. He uses edible flowers and fruits as vessels for his cuisine. • Green kitchens rule: He encourages suppliers to his restaurant to deliver in reusable boxes to minimise excess packaging; vigilantly avoids food waste; and stays on top of the latest thinking in water management, green operations, staff training and technology. • Burnt is big: Burnt and bitter flavours are embraced on the
palate in a good way, with the flavours of carefully burnt toast and mieliepap adding depth and umami to dishes. He makes an ice cream from milk that has been soaked into pots of burnt mieliepap. • Nostalgic cuisine is in: Inspired by the 1960s, he is a fan of slow roasts, jelly and custard, blanched green beans and similar dishes. • Dare to be different: The way to recognition as a chef is to have a strong, identifiable sense of yourself on the plate, starting with experiences when you were young.
CANDLE AND MOSBOLLETJIE
CANDLE AND MOSBOLLETJIE
FOR THE CANDLE •
300 g biltong powder (30 g x 10)
Making a candle like the one featured
•
1L pork fat that has been rendered
in Jan Hendrik’s début TV show, JAN,
•
20 g salt
FOR THE CANDLE
may seem like a task better left to the
•
Black onion powder
1. Combine the salt with the pork
experts… but this version is really quite simple. The combination of kaiing (pork lard) and mosbolletjie is an old
METHOD FOR THE MOSBOLLETJIE
in the late 1600s. The raising agent in
1. Combine the water, yeast and sugar in
method has since been simplified to include yeast. A leftover mosbolletjie
a bowl. Let it sit for 15 minutes. 2. Add the salt, aniseed and melted butter. 3. In a stand mixer fitted with a dough
is a rare sight, as they tend to fly off
hook, place the flour in the mixing
plates during a meal… but when dried
bowl and add the wet mixture.
out in the oven, mosbolletjies make
2. Take 100 ml of the pork lard and crisp the biltong by torching it with a blow torch.
the arrival of the French Huguenots
bread, was traditionally must, but the
minutes, until they are cooked.
lard.
South African delicacy dating back to
a mosbolletjie, a sweet, brioche-like
9. Bake the mosbolletjies for 30-40
4. Knead the dough for 10 minutes at a
3. Mix the biltong and lard together and place the mixture in a piping bag with a medium-size nozzle. The lard’s consistency should be that of room-temperature butter. 4. Arrange a double layer of cling film on your work surface and pipe a line onto the cling wrap. 5. Place a wick down the centre of
delicious rusks to have with your
medium-low speed until the dough is
the lard and then pipe another
coffee the next morning.
smooth.
line of lard over the wick to
INGREDIENTS
5. Let the dough proof in a bowl covered with a damp kitchen towel for 1 hour or until it has doubled in size.
cover it. 6. Cover the lard with the cling wrap, forming a sausage shape. Let the
FOR THE MOSBOLLETJIE
6. Preheat the oven to 200°C.
•
1 kg flour
7. Spray a loaf tin with cooking spray
•
80 g sugar
and divide and portion the dough
•
20 g yeast
into the loaf tin, forming balls and
•
30 ml aniseed
packing them together to achieve the
•
220 g butter
traditional mosbolletjie look.
•
100 ml milk
8. Allow the mosbolletjies to proof,
•
450 ml water, lukewarm
covered with a damp kitchen towel
then blend, sieve and season) and
•
15 ml salt
until they have doubled in size.
serve with the mosbolletjies.
candle set in the freezer. 7. Repeat with the remaining lard. 8. Once the candles have set, remove the cling wrap. 9. Roll the candle in burnt onion powder (place onions under the grill until they are blackened,
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RECIPE
STEAMED WHITE FISH
SERVED WITH A LIME AND LEMON VERBENA SAUCE VIERGE Recipe by Jodi-Ann Pearton.
INGREDIENTS STEAMED FISH: • 5ml oil
ME: ATION TI PREPAR UT ES IN M 15 G TIME: COOKIN UT ES MIN 0 2 10
• 2 White fi sh fi llets, 150g each • 20g Ginger, grated • 1 Garlic, clove, sliced • 1 Lemon, zested and juiced • Salt and pepper to season
SAUCE VIERGE: • 10 Tomatoes, peeled and medium diced • 150ml Lime juice • 280g Basil, chopped • 300ml Lemon verbena infused Oil • 10g Garlic, minced • 5g Coriander, ground
METHOD STEAMED SEABASS: • Lightly oil a piece of baking parchment the size of a dinner plate. Put the fi sh fi llet skin-side down in the centre and scatter over some ginger, garlic, lemon zest and lemon juice. • Place in a bamboo steamer basket, cover with the lid and steam for 8
STEAMED WHITE FISH SERVED WITH A LIME AND LEMON VERBENA SAUCE VIERGE © REBECCA HEARFIELD
minutes, or until cooked through and flakey. Season and set aside.
CHEFS TIP:
SERVING INFORMATION:
Any white fi sh may be used with large
• Serve hot
1. Combine all the ingredients in a bowl.
flakes such as hake, seabass, dorado or
• Serves 2
2. Serve with the steamed fi sh.
angel fi sh.
• Weight of one unit: 150g
SAUCE VIERGE:
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FEATURE
SWEET, TANGY,
TERRIFIC!
Small-batch producers of spreads, toppings, sauces and relishes are experts at creating that extra tingle and tickle of taste buds. Susan Reynard reports.
W
e continue exploring the world of artisanal and craft products, this time looking at spreads, toppings and sauces.
YES CHEF
William Watson is a professionally trained chef, graduating from the Christina Martin culinary school in Durban. He ran his business, Fresh Life Foods, for seven years, providing healthy lunch options and catering services to corporates in KwaZulu-Natal. He has also worked in top restaurants in the area. Two years ago, he started bottling his own range of condiments, sauces and reductions under the Yes Chef label, which are available in select stores, delis and markets. He is ready to expand his business nationwide and we caught up with him at Food & Hospitality Africa/Hostex where he was giving the foodservice industry a taste of his products. “My goal is to give people something different. While I was doing corporate cooking, I changed the menu daily. I now test what people like at markets,” he says. The top sellers at present is his Jalapeno and Red Chilli Candied Onions and the Sour Cherry and Port Reduction, which can be used in sweet and savoury dishes, such as for basting meat or adding to ice cream. Products are packaged in
56
regular jars for consumers as well as 1kg packs (or larger, on request) for the foodservice industry. Williams says the unique selling point of products like Yes Chef is they are ready-made and therefore convenient for busy chefs; they are prepared with no compromise on quality; and there is no wastage. They are ideal for adding something special to a dish to offer variety. He also works with chefs in industry to develop product to order for specific establishments wanting a unique signature flavour. He says of the current supply chain in the foodservice industry, “I’d like to see chefs support local, smaller guys, using our skills from chefs’ school to create chef-style products. We can save you time without compromising on quality. We will also suggest new ways to use the products to create dishes that appeal during different day parts. Also, you can use the products on their own as a relish or sauce or as a base for something else, such as a special dip
YES CHEF’S RANGE OF CONDIMENTS, SAUCES AND REDUCTIONS
or cream cheese filling when you need a quick turnaround on canapés, for example. It’s all about good chefmanship, making an ingredient your own in your dishes,” he adds. On the Yes Chef 031 Facebook site, William posted on 18 May, “I was at the market today and picked up some beautiful fresh figs. I will be making a limited batch of caramelised fig, fresh ginger, chilli and lime preserve FOR THE CHEESE LOVERS!!!” It is this kind of quick response to fresh produce availability that should prompt chefs or place an order and boost their cheese boards.
DARLING SWEET
Darling Sweet’s new foodservice size sauces and toppings have been launched following several requests from hotels, restaurants and coffee shops for larger units of their spreads, which are ideal for use in desserts, milkshakes as well as savoury dishes. Hentie van der Merwe, product developer at Darling Sweet, says all three of their toffee spread flavours
FEATURE
THE PANTRY MARKET AT KEYES © MADELENE CRONJE
are available in the large, 1.25kg catering units: Tannie Evita’s Classic, Bird’s Eye Chili and Honey & Salt toffee spread. Visitors to Food & Hospitality Africa/Hostex enjoyed tasting these mouthwateringly delicious products and learning more about how to incorporate them onto the menu. Hentie explains, “These spreads are fantastic in milkshakes as a topping and/or ingredient, as well as desserts such as malva pudding, bread-and-butter pudding, etc. It is also great as a cake filling and topping. If you mix a little of the spread with some cream to loosen it, then fold it into more whipped cream, it is a great accompaniment to fresh fruit and other desserts and meringues. The bird’s eye chili spread makes a great glaze for some meat dishes.”
Discussing what happens within a company that starts out as artisanal and grows due to popular demand, Hentie says, “As a proudly South African company, one of our main aims is job creation and our products are all hand-crafted in small batches, made with the best ingredients. Even though our products might be more widely available, and in larger units, these are still made by real people with love and care.”
THE PANTRY MARKET AT KEYES
Roberta Thatcher is curator of The Pantry Market, a monthly food market in Rosebank’s art and design district, Keyes Art Mile in Johannesburg. She shares what makes this market special:
What makes for a successful market of artisanal food products?
“There are so many factors. Obviously, the product is the hero, so you have to have the right selection of good-quality products on sale. This then needs to be paired with the right audience, making marketing a key factor. The magic happens when visitors come face-to-face with the producers themselves – I love overhearing producers passionately describe the way their products are made. Finally, atmosphere is of course essential – look and feel, music, all the small details that visitors may not consciously notice, but that contribute to that feel-good factor.”
How do you go about selecting exhibitors?
DARLING SWEET HONEY & SALT TOFFEE SPREAD
For me the most important factor is balance. You need to have the right amount of each product, so while I may know of eight excellent confectioners, I would never invite them all to a niche market such as this. I think about what products I want to have at the market and then look for the best producer
of that product. I come across so many wonderful food producers through my work as a journalist, through introductions, on Instagram, and my favourite part of my role as curator is meeting them, tasting their products and helping them get ready for the market.”
What are some of the trends in this hyper-local way of sourcing ingredients?
“Urban beekeeping is on the rise, making it a possibility to now pinpoint your honey to a specific suburb. Urban Apiary sells honey at our market and last month I bought one jar from a hive in Midrand and one from Houghton. The difference in colour, texture and taste is remarkable. Organic urban farming is also increasingly popular in Johannesburg. Kula Organics sells fresh produce and eggs at the market from her own farm as well as a group of inner-city farmers that she works closely with. The joy of this is that the farms are all within 20km of each other so you can ensure the produce has just been picked and is literally farm fresh.”
How do you get buy-in from local chefs and how is this serving to help grow their brand? “The market is about product rather than on-site eating, so we approach chefs known for producing interesting products you can stock your pantry with. Jackie Right-Boyd from Dolci Cafe sells homemade pasta and fresh sauces; James Diack of Coobs has made his famous quince jelly for us; Jacques Erasmus from Hemelhuijs made a variety of marmalades from his personal citrus garden. The one observation from all our vendors is that the visitors to the market are extremely food literate and passionate about the topic, so it’s a wonderful opportunity for chefs to have their product end up in the homes of eager foodies.”
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NEWS
PEPPADEW
®
PICKS A WINNER!
Shaista Anoop was the champion of the inaugural 2018 Young Chefs Culinary Challenge™ hosted by Peppadew International (Pty) Ltd. Susan Reynard reports.
T
he late Dr Billy Gallagher’s memory was honoured at the inaugural 2018 Young Chefs Culinary Challenge™ which was hosted by Peppadew International (Pty) Ltd and took place at the ChefMLK School of Cooking in Johannesburg on 5 April 2018. The winner, Shaista Anoop, a pastry lecturer at 1000 Hills Chef School in KwaZulu-Natal, was presented with an all-expenses paid trip to the Worldchefs Congress & Expo in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia in July 2018 to attend the Billy Gallagher Young Chefs Forum.
Chef Shaista’s winning menu consisted of:
• Starter: Smoked fish with apple salsa, PEPPADEW® Vegetable Atchar and white wine sauce plus tuile • Main: Poached chicken breast, bacon and sweetcorn tortalini with PEPPADEW® Tomato and Jalapeño pasta sauce, broccoli, carrot puree and pickled carrots, mushroom and jalapeño sauce • Dessert: Salted caramel mousse with PEPPADEW® Piquanté Pepper sauce, dark chocolate mousse with macerated plum, and basil sponge with basil cream Shaista was thrilled to win the competition and very excited at the upcoming trip to the WACS Congress – this will be her first trip out of South Africa! Her mentor is Jade Benians, principal of 1000 Hills Chef School. The PEPPADEW® Brand has
58
THE WINNER: SHAISTA ANOOP
invested in this new culinary competition to encourage young apprentices and junior chefs between the ages of 18 and 25 to showcase their creative skills. To enter, chefs had to create an original menu consisting of a starter, main course and dessert, each using at least one PEPPADEW® product per course, accompanied by recipes and photographs of their dishes. In addition, entrants had to submit a short summary on where they would like their culinary careers to take them in the next five years. Entries were pre-judged by a panel of certified judges from the South African Association of Chefs. Six chefs from around South Africa competed in the finals. The panel of accredited judges on the
day included kitchen judge Adrian Vigus Brown (former chairman of SA Chefs Young Chefs Club and head chef at African Pride Melrose Arch Hotel); Martin Kobald (vice president of the World Association of Chefs Societies, honorary president of SA Chefs and owner of ChefMLK School of Cooking); Jeff Schueremans (Retro Foods director and SA Chefs’ Academy of Chefs member); Pinky Maruping (regional customer chef – Gauteng, Unilever Food Solutions); Amelia Hutchinson (Principal of ChefMLK School of Cooking) and Jeremy Mansfield (honorary member of SA Chefs). Peppadew International’s head office team lead by MD Richard Pelczarski came out to Martin’s cooking school to support the competition and cheer on contestants. They are passionate about their range of products, which started with the original sweet piquanté peppers and has since grown into a range of foodservice and retail products in mild or hot variants plus a range of cuts, including jalapeño peppers; pickled onions; various pasta sauces; vegetable atchar; sauces; and relishes. Last year, PEPPADEW® the Brand became a Silver Level Partner for the Worldchefs Congress & Expo 2018 in Kuala Lumpur, supplying functional and design-orientated ingredients to the Worldchefs Global Chefs Challenge and showing its unique and versatile product range to the world’s best culinary representatives.
TAKE YOURTHE STARTER MENU SAVOUR SUMMER
TO THE NEXT LEVEL (SERVE HOT OR COLD)
• 1 kg beetroot; peeled & quartered • 1 kg carrots; peeled & quartered • 2 litres vegetable stock (boiling water mixed with vegetable stock cubes) • 2 cups reserved vegetable stock • 1 cup double cream Greek yoghurt • A handful of chopped fresh dill • 10 ml red wine vinegar • Salt and pepper
1. Place the beetroot, carrots and stock in a large pot and bring to a boil. Cook for about 20 minutes until soft. Remove from the heat. 2. Strain the vegetables, reserving the liquid. Place the beetroot and carrots in a food processor and process to a smooth pulp. 3. Add 2 cups reserved stock, the yoghurt and dill, continue to process until very smooth. Add the vinegar, salt and pepper and mix briefly. 4. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary. Serve with a dollop of yoghurt, some chopped dill and crusty bread.
NEED INGREDIENTS?
Call 0861 SAVING or go to www.checkersfs.co.za to order online now.
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OPPORTUNITIES
PHOTO BY ALEX LOUP ON UNSPLASH
OPPORTUNITIES Find your dream job or ultimate business opportunity below…
PERSONAL CHEF EXECUTIVE DINING
A company based in Germiston is looking for a qualified Personal Chef for four executives and their guests. European, Italian and Asian fine-dining experience/exposure is essential. The hours will be Monday to Friday 7:30-17:00.
Requirements:
• Drivers’ License • Tertiary qualification in Professional Cookery, Food Preparation/Handling and Culinary Arts • Minimum two years relevant experience • Skilled in preparing Italian, Mediterranean, Chinese, Indian and Mexican dishes • Knowledge of contemporary healthy cooking methods/cuisine. • Skilled in making pastries, desserts and other baked foods an added advantage • Good time management skills
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• Hygiene of utmost importance when preparing food etc. • Must be able to manage kitchen and stock efficiently • Ability to work independently • Must have knowledge about healthy, organic ingredients and where to purchase Salary: in the range of R18 000 - R22 000 + benefits. Apply online at: www.hoteljobs.co.za
SOUS CHEF - SEYCHELLES Kendrick Recruitment is seeking a Sous Chef for a beautiful 5-star resort in the Seychelles. The candidate must have an eye and knack for presentation. The candidate must demonstrate a passion for cooking and an eye for detail.
Requirements:
• 4-5 years in a 5* establishment • Degree or similar qualification
• Good references from renowned establishments • Must be able to work well with others • Outgoing and fun personality This is a live in position. Apply online: at www.hoteljobs.co.za
CHEF DE PARTIE
A fine-dinning restaurant in Stellenbosch seeks a skilled chef de partie to join their team. The successful candidate get to work – and sharpen their skills – under one of Cape Town’s top chefs. There is a lot of space for growth. The candidate should be well-spoken and well-presented and show demonstrable passion about the industry. This is the perfect position for a recent chef school graduate with 3-4 years experience at a top establishment. Must have own transport. Salary: R8 000.
OPPORTUNITIES
PHOTO BY HENRIQUE FÉLIX ON UNSPLASH
PHOTO BY MEGAN HODGES ON UNSPLASH
Apply online at: www.careersinhospo.com
SENIOR SOUS CHEF
Upmarket restaurant in Constantia, Cape Town, seeks a skilled Senior Sous Chef. Candidate should be well spoken well-presented and passionate about the industry. It is the perfect job for a well-organised person, with exceptional cookery skills and fine-dining flair. 7-9 years experience within respected establishments is required. The candidate should have worked up the ranks and have stable employment track record. Top 20 restaurant experience and fine-dining knowledge. Perfect for a young, hard-working chef looking to grow with a booming brand. Own transport essential. Salary in the range of: R18 000 - R20 000. Apply online at: www.hoteljobs.co.za
EXECUTIVE CHEF
A 5-star lodge in the Northern Cape seeks an experienced candidate who has shown strength in leadership/mentorship, and is able to nurture and develop a kitchen brigade originating mostly from the local area.
Requirements:
• Matric + formal chef qualification • Experience in menu planning, concept, design and implementation • Training and mentoring skills • Good verbal and written communication • Administration skills • Dependability • Attention to detail • Adaptability • High stress tolerance • Leadership • Cooperation • Social Orientation Salary of up to: R35 000 + benefits (including on-site accommodation) For full details and to apply visit: www.hoteljobs.co.za
SOUS CHEF GAME LODGE
A 5-star game lodge situated near Mozambique’s border seeks a skilled sous chef. The successful candidate should be passionate about cookery, and have some bush experience. They should have 4-5 years industry experience and be happy to relocate. Contactable references and stable employment history essential. Apply online at: www.careersinhospo.com
HEAD PASTRY CHEF STELLENBOSCH
A 5* state-of-the-art conference & restaurant venue, catering for up to 60 a la Carte guests and for up to 350-pax for functions, all situated on a modern wine estate near Stellenbosch, requires a fully trained Head Pastry Chef. Candidates from the Top 20 establishments in South Africa will be considered! Those residing in the Cape Winelands area will be preferred. The suitable candidate will be young with a creative mind, able to fit into an already existing young brigade. Our client will only consider candidates with a minimum of two years’ experience, after the completion of at least two years’ professional chefs training from such well-known institutions like ICA, Prue Leith or Silwood Kitchen. Due to the location of the wine farm, own transport is absolutely essential. Applicants from outside the Western Cape will have to come in person to be interviewed by us and our client and if shortlisted, will spend one to two trial shifts in that kitchen. Only South African citizens and Permanent Residents will be considered. For full details and to apply: visit www.hoteljobs.co.za
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EVENTS TO DIARISE
NOVEMBER JULY KNYSNA OYSTER FESTIVAL 29 June – 8 July Knysna, South Africa MANUFACTURERS AND DISTRIBUTORS EXHIBITION IN BOTSWANA 5–7 Gaborone, Botswana HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL BAKERY EXPO 6–8 Hong Kong SEATTLE INTERNATIONAL BEERFEST 6–8 Seattle, USA TAICHUNG INTERNATIONAL WINE EXHIBITION 6–9 Taichung, Taiwan NIGERIA AGROFOOD, FOOD AND AGRICULTURE TECHNOLOGIES EXHIBITIONS 10 – 12 Lagos, Nigeria WORLDCHEFS CONGRESS AND EXPO 11 – 14 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia INTERNATIONAL RICE AND GRAIN TECH EXPO 13 – 15 Colombo, Sri Lanka FRANSCHHOEK BASTILLE FESTIVAL 14 – 15 Franschhoek, South Africa SA OLYMPIC CULINARY SQUAD TRAINING SESSION 14 – 16 Johannesburg, South Africa
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IFT FOOD EXPO 15 – 18 Chicago, USA DIGITAL FOOD AND BEVERAGE 16 – 17 Chicago, USA ENOLOGY AND VITICULTURE CONFERENCE AND TRADE SHOW 16 – 17 Penticton, Canada MALAYSIA INTERNATIONAL PACKAGING AND LABELLING FOOD PROCESSING AND BAKERY EQUIPMENT EXHIBITION 19 – 22 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia SOETES & SOUP FESTIVAL 20 – 21 Rawsonville, South Africa INTERNATIONAL SNACK SHOW 20 – 22 Taipei, Taiwan SAITEX 24 – 25 Johannesburg, South Africa
AUGUST WORLD FOOD EXPO 1–4 Pasay, Philipines FNB FREE STATE WINE SHOW 2–3 Bloemfontein, South Africa CHINA INTERNATIONAL FOOD PROCESSING & PACKAGING EQUIPMENT EXHIBITION 2–5 Qingdao, China ROBERTSON SLOW FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL 3–5 Robertson, South Africa INTERNATIONAL BERLIN BEER FESTIVAL 3–5 Berlin, Germany PMA FRESH CONNECTIONS SOUTHERN AFRICA CONFERENCE & EXPO 15 – 16 Cape Town, South Africa
INTERNATIONAL BULK WINE AND SPIRITS SHOW 25 – 26 San Francisco, USA
HONG KONG FOOD EXPO 16 – 20 Hong Kong, China
THE WINE SHOW 26 – 28 Port Elizabeth, South Africa
THE CHOCOLATE FESTIVAL 18 Stellenbosch, South Africa
FOOD AND TECHNOLOGY EXPO 27 – 29 New Delhi, India INTERNATIONAL PINOT NOIR CELEBRATION 27 – 29 McMinnville, USA
EVENTS TO DIARISE
WESTERN FOODSERVICE & HOSPITALITY EXPO 19 – 21 Los Angeles, USA AFRICAN DAIRY CONFERENCE & EXHIBITION 20 – 24 Nairobi, Kenya GOA FOOD & HOSPITALITY EXPO 23 – 25 Taleigao, India TAIWAN CULINARY ART CHALLENGE 24 – 26 New Taipei City, Taiwan THE MERCURY WINE WEEK 29 – 31 Durban, South Africa WORLD FOOD SUMMIT 30 – 31 Copenhagen, Denmark WORLD FOOD FAIR 30 August – 2 September Singapore TOPS AT SPAR BIERFEST 31 August – 1 September Durban, South Africa
SEPTEMBER STREET FOOD FESTIVAL 1–2 Cape Town, South Africa SPECIALITY & FINE FOOD FAIR 2–4 London, UK FOODAGRO AFRICA 4–6 Nairobi, Kenya SOWETO WINE & LIFESTYLE FESTIVAL 4–6 Soweto, South Africa FOOD & DRINK TECHNOLOGY AFRICA 4–6 Johannesburg South Africa WORLDFOOD ISTANBUL 5–8 Istanbul, Turkey GREVE CHIANTI CLASSICO WINE FESTIVAL 6–8 Greve, Italy DRINKS & PACK EXPO 9 – 10 Utrecht, Netherlands
© WWW.UNSPLASH.COM, PHOTOGRAPHER: PETER HERSHEY
SA OLYMPIC CULINARY SQUAD TRAINING SESSION 18 – 20 Johannesburg, South Africa
SWEETS UKRAINE 11 – 13 Kiev, Ukraine CAPE WINE 12 – 14 Cape Town, South Africa CHINA FOOD AND CATERING EXPO 13 – 16 Changhsha, China SA OLYMPIC CULINARY SQUAD TRAINING SESSION 15 – 17 Johannesburg, South Africa SPECIALITY FOOD FESTIVAL 16 – 18 Dubai, UAE DSTV DELICIOUS INTERNATIONAL FOOD & MUSIC FESTIVAL 22 – 23 Johannesburg, South Africa FOOD TECHNOLOGY SUMMIT & EXPO 26 – 27 WORLD OF FOOD INDIA 27 – 29 Mumbai, India COFFEE & CHOCOLATE EXPO CAPE TOWN 28 – 30 Cape Town, South Africa
BREWMASTERS CRAFT BEER FESTIVAL 31 August – 2 September Galveston, USA
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THE LAST WORD
“
YOU SHOULD NEVER,
NEVER DOUBT WHAT NOBODY IS SURE ABOUT” - WILLY WONKA I get the feeling that chocolate wants to be taken seriously again. I think it wants to shed it’s frivolous and sinful image and become respected as a versatile ingredient in the modern kitchen.
A
favourite from the Mayans to European courts until a Dutch chemist called Van Houten came up with a process known as “Dutching” which produced cocoa and effectively brought chocolate to the masses. It should have stayed a very serious ingredient since its early production was very firmly in the hands of men who were not given over to frivolity: the Quaker capitalists of the United Kingdom, the Fry, Cadbury and Rowntree families, the Swiss Calvinists, Nestlé, Lindt and Tobler and the pious Pennsylvanian Mennonite, Milton Hershey, but I suppose you’ve got to blame those ponytails from the Marketing Department for the slightly decadent image enjoyed by chocolate today. But all that’s about to change now as it takes on a solemn air, with chefs adding chocolate to savoury dishes either as a new taste dimension or to highlight shock value, and chocolate snobs are pontificating about the trend with all the fervour of wine critics getting themselves in a corkscew over metal-topped wine bottles. The cutting edge of culinary exploration can be so exciting until you learn that as long ago as the 1700’s Italian chefs were experimenting with chocolate in
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BRIAN MCCUNE
savoury dishes including lasagna, fried liver, soup and polenta, albeit in a slightly different form to modern day chocolate. Strangely none of the dishes really caught on . The real problem is that when people start taking an ingredient seriously we create a whole new slew of bloody experts pontificating and taking all the fun out of the product. So we’ve got bean to bar experts, been to Ecuador experts, single origin chocolatiers and of course the bunnyhuggers - start to enjoy something and up pop the bunnyhuggers! It seems, and it’s no great surprise, that you can’t trust what it says on the label - single origin could mean from one farm (a dangerous business model), from one region (a bit like your favourite coffee blend) or from one country
(back to Cadbury again). I don’t have too big a problem with that but now the bunnyhuggers are claiming single origin means nothing as far as ethics go. It could be a pesticide spewing monoculture using children to harvest the cocoa beans. You’ve got to read the label and seek out magic words like shade grown or agroforestry, meaning that the cacao is grown under a canopy, often with other crops that together create a forest that mitigates climate change, keeps the soil healthy and provides habitat for many species, especially birds. Isn’t that a nice image? Now as far as I’m concerned I’m not in favour of taking chocolate too seriously, in fact in the words of the greatest chocolatier Willy Wonka “A little nonsense now and then is relished by the wisest men” so to me it’s no different from any other food, it’s there to be enjoyed not deified. Who cares if it’s 53% cocoa solids or only 45%? Who cares if it’s Swiss, Belgian, French, single origin or shade grown, I like it all, just don’t ever pour it over my steak! Brian owns the Food Biz, a Cape Town based food consultancy, and instead of working spends his time telling other people how to work. Contact him at www.thefood.biz, foodwizard@ iafrica.com, 082 492 9239
0860 111 MAC | www.macbrothers.co.za
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GENIUS MT
MULTIMAX
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When passion leads the work done in the kitchen, then there is no room for long explanations. But there always is for MULTIMAX. This is his natural habitat. Perfectly adapting to the environment. His secret to success: highest effectiveness by reduction to the essentials. No moaning, back talking, he just works. A true craftsman for real craftmen - simply uncomplicated!
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CAPE TOWN (HEAD OFFICE)
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DURBAN
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OUR HAS ARRIVED We do business directly with more than 800 farmers, so you know you’re getting the freshest produce delivered straight to your door – 6 days a week.
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