SA CH EF
MEDIA
ISSUE 04 | 2017
The Of ficial Voice of the South African Chefs Association
STEPHEN BILLINGHAM
Celebrating a President of Distinction
SOUTH AFRICAN BEEF A Cut Above the Rest
27-29 OC
durban exh
Renowned chefs Informative and inte culinery experiences Showcase of new tre
MARCO PIERRE WHITE
#GFWS2017
GF&W SA SA Chef DBN.indd 1
@goo
WELCOME
FROM THE DESK
OF THE PRESIDENT As is well known, I will be stepping down after 8 years of service as the President of SA Chefs at our upcoming Annual General Meeting, and am thrilled to usher in the next growth phase of the Association. I am confident that our next President will continue to uphold our values of honesty, integrity and meaningful transformation. Compliments of the season to all SA Chefs members, and our loyal readers. Have a safe, blessed and prosperous festive season. Culinary regards, Stephen
STEPHEN BILLINGHAM
M
assive congratulations to the SA team who competed at the African Culinary Cup in Mauritius, under the steadfast leadership of Jodi-Ann Pearton. Ryan and Jodi-Ann will be travelling to Global Chefs in Egypt to compete, and they have the full support of SA Chefs behind them. Further congratulations to Trevor Boyd and his national squad as they step up their preparations for the Culinary Olympics in 2020, and to La Colombe, which has been ranked in the top 10 restaurants in the world, again!
Hats off to Shaun Smith, who has been appointed Chief Expert at Worldskills in Russia 2019. I bid a fond farewell to Mirella Barnes from City and Guilds, and thank her for her incredible support and assistance with accommodating the NYCTP. We also eagerly await the launch of phase five of the NYCTP. I would like to wish all the culinary students across the country good luck with their end of year exams and tests. Remember to fail is not an option, and I am personally looking forward to welcoming you as graduates to our industry in 2018.
I AM CONFIDENT THAT OUR NEXT PRESIDENT WILL CONTINUE TO UPHOLD OUR VALUES OF HONESTY, INTEGRITY AND MEANINGFUL TRANSFORMATION.
SA CHEFS PATRONS
01
SA CHEF MEDIA
SA CHEF MEDIA ADVERTISERS AL & CD Ashley PAGE 47 B-Well Inside Front Cover, PAGE 29 Chalmar Beef PAGE 06 Chateau Gateaux (Pty) Ltd PAGE 04-05 Checkers Food Services PAGE 43, Outside Back Cover Klein Karoo PAGE 15
Cover Image: © Jakub Kapusnak, foodiesfeed.com Published by SA Chef Media, a division of Film & Event Media
Publisher Lance Gibbons lance@sachefmag.co.za Editor in Chief Katie Reynolds-Da Silva katie@sachefmag.co.za Designers Sheree Steenkamp, Lauren Smith, Caitlin Perrett Writers Kim Crowie, Susan Reynard Contributors Brian McCune Production Manager Aayesha Parker aayesha@filmeventmedia.co.za Production Manager Tamlyn Peters tamlyn@filmeventmedia.co.za
Lynca Meats PAGE 13
Business Development Manager Wendy Navarra wendy@sachefmag.co.za Business Manager Coleen Tapson coleen@sachefmag.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 21 674 0646
McDonald's PAGE 32-33 Woodview Gourmet Foods (Pty) Ltd PAGE 11
SA CHEFS
ADVERTISE WITH US:
President Stephen Billingham General Manager Thomas Overbeck Financial Manager Jason Pitout Membership enquiries Precious MasekoDiscover a centre of plate selection unlike any other. At Checkers Food Services, we offer a vast array of quality meat cuts, Culinary Workshops hand prepared by ourenquiries expert butchers, gourmet seafood that supports sustainable fishing, and a wide range of poultry – all delivered right to your door. Yejna Maharaj SACA Certification Elsu Gericke Head of Marketing and Events Katlego Tshabangu Over 8000 products to choose from
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CONTACT COLEEN TAPSON / WENDY NAVARRA coleen@sachefmag.co.za / wendy@sachefmag.co.za
ISSUE 04 | 2017
SACH EF
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SOUTH AFRICAN BEEF A Cut Above the Rest
CONTENTS
01 PRESIDENT’S LETTER 02 CREDITS AND ADVERTISERS
07 BIG, BETTER, BEEF Susan Reynard reports on the state of the beef industry in South Africa.
04 CHATEAU GATEAUX EMBRACES SUSTAINABILITY 07 SA’S BEEF: A CUT ABOVE 16 LAKELAND’S DELICIOUS DESSERT TOPPINGS 18 INFOCHEF AFRICA OUTSTANDING! 19 NYCTP IN THE NEWS
24 ARTISANAL CONDIMENTS Small-batch, artisanal, niche – condiments like spices, relishes and preserves are the stuff of flavour, exploration and innovation.
21 NATIONAL TEAM ANNOUNCED 22 BILL’S FEAST FURTHERS CAREERS 24 CRAFTING CONDIMENTS 32 WHAT’S THE BEEF WITH McDONALD’S? 34 STEPHEN BILLINGHAM: THE LIFE OF A PRESIDENT 38 LIGHTS, CAMERA, FOODPORN!
34 CELEBRATING STEPHEN BILLINGHAM President of SA Chefs since 2009, Stephen will leave a legacy of enriched education and positive change to come.
44 CRAFTING A CULINARY CAREER PATH 46 KINGS OF THE KITCHEN 50 OIL MANAGEMENT AND OIL SELECTION 52 SOWETO EAT IN 2017 55 AFRICAN CULINARY CUP 56 CHEFS ON THE MOVE
56 CHEFS ON THE MOVE Changes to senior chefs at top hotels brings about a fresh perspective to the dining experience.
60 REGIONAL SPOTLIGHT: MBOMBELA 62 EVENTS TO DIARISE 64 THE LAST WORD WITH BRIAN MCCUNE 03
CHÂTEAU GATEÂUX
CHATEAU GATEAUX
EMBRACES SUSTAINABILITY Malcolm Lyle, Director of Château Gâteaux, SA’s leading premium desserts specialist, talks SA Chef through the company’s innovative new approach to greening, and challenges others in the food service industry to follow their lead.
to identify the big impact items and make a start on those.
What did the process entail?
MALCOLM LYLE WITH CHATEAU GATEAUX’S NEW, BIODEGRADABLE PACKAGING.
What made you take the step to embrace a sustainable packaging option?
As responsible business owners and directors, we have become increasingly aware of the need to preserve our precious environment. We are outdoor enthusiasts and are appalled at the level of environmental abuse right here in our own province and country. When we looked at our business, we realised that we are contributing to this and need to face up to the fact that we have to make substantial changes immediately. What is important is to acknowledge that you can’t immediately find solutions to every bad facet, but
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Almost three years ago, we identified polystyrene as the most substantial and environmentally offensive material used by our business. We embarked on a project with our cardboard packaging supplier, Wave Paper, to find a suitable solution to replace polystyrene. The solution needed to adequately match or improve on the key features of polystyrene, being insulation, protection and moisture imperviousness. We conducted substantial comparative tests on all iterations until we arrived at a material and box design that delivered on all features.
What is the new packaging made of?
Corrugated cardboard with a bio-degradable waterproof food-safe coating.
How have you ensured that the new packaging doesn’t compromise on quality?
Besides the extensive tests for maintenance of all of the three key features on each iteration, once we had finalised the design, we also conducted transport and storage tests over long periods of time to ensure the packaging preserved the
exceptional quality of our products. We exaggerated the environment to ensure the packaging still performed and I’m satisfied that the stringent tests were all passed.
This will resonate with businesses that strive for the ‘Triple Bottom Line’ approach to business? Was this the intention?
Yes, certainly. As our business has realised the privilege of growth, so too have we as management and owners realised the broader responsibilities we have to our community, society and the environment. While we may be competitors in some spheres, we should consider ourselves partners in building a better world for our and future generations. When we embarked on this project, we were daunted by the enormity of it, but once we immersed ourselves in it, we found solutions. It was George Bernard Shaw who said, “There is no task so great as that which is not begun”. In the spirit of this, we urge our competitors, colleagues and customers to make a start as soon as possible.
Because we
LOOKING AFTER OUR ENVIRONMENT
In the interests of caring for the environment, Château Gâteaux has commenced a programme to eliminate as many environmentally damaging packaging material elements as is possible and practical. Eliminating polystyrene was the obvious first task given the large quantities used in packaging our products.
All polystyrene has now been replaced with 100% recyclable and biodegradable materials. Our new packaging has been designed and tested to deliver the equivalent insulation and protective properties of polystyrene.
www.chateaugateaux.co.za
CHALMAR BEEF
CHALMAR BEEF Introducing South Africa’s premium cuts
ABOUT CHALMAR BEEF
Well-known beef producer Chalmar Beef is the dynamic and successful company that has established itself as a leader in the beef industry, and is in the process of expanding its newlydeveloped sheep feedlot. Through hard work, a passion for cattle and an entrepreneurial spirit, Chalmar Beef has grown to become one of the most trusted and sought-after beef and lamb suppliers for restaurateurs, premium butchers and chefs throughout South Africa.
PRIME CUT SELECTION BEEF T-Bone
The T-Bone is recognised as a prime cut steak which has a distinct ‘T’ shaped bone. The distinctive T shape comes from the lumbar vertebra being sawn through the vertebral column. The bone is nestled between two prized steaks namely the fillet and strip loin. The larger, meatier steak is the strip loin, whereas the smaller steak is the fillet.
Tips for the perfect T-Bone • Remove the steak from the refrigerator and packaging approximately 30 mins before cooking • Lightly rub with olive oil before cooking. Do not add salt as this will result in loss of moisture. Salt the meat after cooking, if desired • Use a fast, dry heat method of cooking
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CONTACT US: Chalmar Beef is available to butcheries, chefs and the general public. For more information visit our website www.
chalmarbeef. co.za or visit us on Facebook @
chalmarbeef
© JORGE DE PAUW
LAMB
Lamb is the name given to meat from sheep that are younger than a year at the time of harvesting. Chalmar Beef only produces Lamb.
Leg of Lamb
This cut is very flavoursome, and will typically be cooked as a bone in or deboned roast. A bone in leg is perfect for roasting, while a deboned leg is ideal for braaiing.
Tips for the perfect Lamb
• It is a lean muscle so care should be taken not to overcook it as this will dry the meat out • Stuff with a few garlic cloves and rub with olive oil and flavour with mint or rosemary if desired • Remember to let the meat rest before carving to allow the moisture to be redistributed and reabsorbed.
AGING OF MEAT
Aging, sometimes called “conditioning” or “ripening,” is a natural process
which improves the palatability attributes of meat. Of these, tenderness is the one most demanded by consumers, and this is improved through aging. There are two aging types, namely wet and dry, which both result in a similar degree of tenderness, however there is a distinct flavour difference. Wet aging is done in vacuum bags, allowing natural enzymes to break down the connective tissue under controlled refrigerated conditions. Dry aging is done in a temperature and humidity controlled environment with no packaging. After the aging period, edges are trimmed. Lamb is typically not dry aged due to its size. Beef and lamb products are vacuum packaged at the site of carcass fabrication, wet aging is the predominant method of aging and this is currently practiced at Chalmar Beef.
FEATURE
© JAKUB KAPUSNAK, FOODIESFEED.COM
SA’S BEEF: A CUT ABOVE The world of beef yields a range of recipe options for chefs. Nose-to-tail is growing in popularity and importance. Susan Reynard reports.
S
outh Africa is a nation of (mostly) meat-eaters. From shisa nyama, braais and burger joints to steakhouses and restaurants with gourmet butcheries attached, as Willem Wethmar, CEO of Chalmar Beef says, the beef carcass is a very democratic product, with something for everyone. A tour of the abattoir at Chalmar Beef and Chalmar Lamb in Bapsfontein at a recent information day attended by restaurateurs and
butchers from around the country, highlighted that this is where art and science meet. Top chefs Bertus Basson and Reuben Riffel agree with Chalmar Beef’s philosophy on quality meat and complete traceability, for themselves as well as their customers. Sustainability and ethical rearing and slaughtering of animals are more important than ever as they impact our views on and quality of the meat. Willem tackled myths and misconceptions in cattle farming
including: carbon footprint (not as bad as you think); feed (almost 90% by-products of the human food chain); use of hormones and antibiotics (strictly legislated, unique to animals not people, and guided by the latest international technology and veterinary science that offer protection, safety and comfort to consumers); and misleading claims by some suppliers (varying definitions of “organic”, “grass-fed” and “free-range”.
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FEATURE
DID YOU KNOW?
animal of the bovine, ovine, porcine
Biltong and boerewors manufacture
or caprine species or from a mixture of two or more thereof.
and production are regulated by law. Deli Spices, a premier spice company,
•
casing.
provides the following guidelines on its website:
It shall be contained in an edible
•
It shall contain a minimum of 90% total meat content and not more
BILTONG
than 30% fat content (by calculation
In South Africa as per SANS 885:2011
the lean meat content shall be minimum 63%).
Processed meat products regulation for: Subclass 3.1 being “Whole muscle
•
It shall contain no offal except where
uncured, no or partial heat treated and air
such offal is to be used solely as the
dried products (less than 21 days)” (e.g.
casing of the raw boerewors.
uncured biltong); and
•
deboned meat.
no or partial heat treated and air dried products” (e.g. cured biltong); these
It shall contain no mechanically recovered meat or mechanically
Subclass 5.1 being “Whole muscle cured, •
No ingredients shall be added except
products must legally conform to the
cereal products or starch, vinegar,
following criteria:
spices, herbs, salt, other harmless
•
Minimum 100% actual total meat
flavourants, permitted food
content (analysed)
additives (as per the Act) and water.
• •
PHILOSOPHY ON QUALITY MEAT AND COMPLETE TRACEABILITY, FOR THEMSELVES AS WELL AS THEIR CUSTOMERS. SUSTAINABILITY AND ETHICAL REARING AND SLAUGHTERING OF ANIMALS ARE MORE IMPORTANT THAN EVER.
Minimum 50% actual lean meat (analysed)
This means a boerewors shall not
Maximum 50% fat (analysed)
contain any artificial colourants or soya protein (including textured soya
BOEREWORS
protein), milk protein, egg albumin or
In South Africa, as per regulation 3 of
other ingredient with a protein content
GNR 2718/1990 [in terms of section
greater than 15%.
15(1) of the Foodstuffs, Cosmetics and
If a fresh sausage does not meet the
Disinfectants Act, 1972 (Act No. 54 of
above criteria (nor the criteria for fresh
1972)] governing the composition of
species sausages) it must instead be
raw boerewors, a sausage may only be
labelled as “braaiwors”, “fries”, “grillers”
classified and labelled as a “boerewors”,
or “bangers”.
if it conforms to the following criteria: •
CHALMAR BEEF’S
Raw boerewors shall be
Source: Deli Spices
manufactured from the meat of an
(www.delispices.co.za)
“Tenderness is the measure of meat quality in South Africa and everything done to cattle beforehand affects this,” Willem explains. Good stockmanship during the animal’s lifespan is the foundation of quality meat after slaughter. Chalmar Beef follows a range of carefully managed processes and strategies designed to ensure calm animals and a more tender end product. There is a move towards listing the suppliers of meat on the menu
ARMANDO ASCORVE MORALES - UNSPLASH
CHALMAR BEEF
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EATERS COLLECTIVE - UNSPLASH
FEATURE
BEST BUTCHERIES The annual Cleaver Awards is organised by the South African Red Meat Industry Forum, together with the SA Feedlot Association. The awards acknowledge butcheries which meet consumer expectations on in-store hygiene, quality assured roller marked South African Beef, competency in offering the best advice on meal preparations and value for money. With judging taking place in 2016
JASON LEUNG - UNSPLASH
and the awards made in April 2017, a total of six national and 39 provincial butcheries won Platinum or Gold Cleaver Awards. National winners included Hendrik Steenkamp, Boma Vleismark in Moreletapark; Marius Jordaan, Edenglen SuperSpar; Francois Rossouw, Impala Vleis in Brits; Hendrik Steenkamp, Boma Vleismark in Faerie Glen; Rudi Oosthuyse, The Grove SuperSpar; and Michelle Laing, Uitkyk Vleismark in Lichtenburg Platinum Award winners take home a trophy and R20 000 and Gold Award winners a trophy and R10 000. The awards are supported by Freddy Hirsch, Southern Africa’s largest supplier of industrial spices, casings and meat processing equipment for independent
as well as the cut and weight. With brands of farms, feedlots, abattoirs and butcheries being recognised and rewarded for excellence, consumers are more aware of and forming associations with those that speak to their personal preferences. Chris Mullard, General Manager and qualified Master Butcher at Chalmar Beef, explained the huge variety of cuts available from a single carcass, especially the lesser known but equally tasty sections like hangar and spider steak. Maturation of meat peaks at 14 days, after which it slows down considerably. Rate of maturation is also determined by temperature (1-3 degrees C); breed (affects amount of naturally occurring enzymes required for maturation); pH
balance of meat at slaughter; and method of deboning. Dry or wet aged tends to be down to personal preference of the butcher or chef. Chris explains that every muscle of meat needs a different preparation and cooking method. The names of various cuts may be different around the world and cuts compete: striploin on the bone in some restaurants competes with the T-bone in others. Debate over where a true ribeye comes from can be cleared up by referring to it as hindquarter ribeye. More combos are offered to restaurateurs to add versatility of use for chefs, such as fillet head, fillet on the bone and a 200g fillet portion; or rump heart, rump cutlet and rump picanha.
butcheries, major retail chain stores and meat processing and poultry factories. To follow the action and for a full list of regional winners and finalists go to www.safeedlot.co.za/cleaver-awards/
RELIGION
Totally Kosher and Amaanah Quality Foods chef patron Richard Pearce and executive chef Tony Koen are masters of ensuring meat that fulfils religious slaughtering and processing requirements still tastes good on the plate. The process for Kosher slaughtering and processing is unique, resulting in meat that is inherently tough. The smaller market for Kosher meat and complex handling means the prices will necessarily be higher.
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FEATURE
© JAKUB KAPUSNAK, FOODIESFEED.COM
RED MEAT INDUSTRY FORUM At the AGM of the Red Meat Industry Forum (RMIF) in August 2017, the following office bearers and committee members were re-elected for another year: Management Committee, which also has responsibility for compliance: •
Dave Ford: Chairman
•
Tim Davidson: Vice-chairman
•
Georg Southey
•
Gerhard Schutte
Levy Committee: •
Barry Swart
•
Andrew Cocks
Halaal meat is somewhat different in that the slaughter and processing procedures are like regular meat with the addition of religious prayers. The demand for Halaal meat is growing both locally and to South Africa’s export markets such as the Middle East. The state-of-the-art back of house at Totally Kosher / Amaanah Quality Foods ensures that all religious obligations are met and top-quality cuisine prepared. Richard has always been passionate about producing flavourful dishes using meat compliant with various religions traditions. He and Tony share an understanding of what has gone into the meat before cooking, and compensate and adjust
The RMIF is an umbrella council consisting of 13 nominated members each representing the interests of the most nationally representative sector specific organisations within the red meat value chain, from primary producers to consumers. The SA Chefs Association regularly partners with the RMIF to train unemployed youth how to cook meat to create job opportunities within the hospitality industry and small business owners to raise the standards of their operations in best practice and food service. For more information go to www.redmeatsa.co.za.
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IMAGE COURTESY OF CHALMAR BEEF
recipes to ensure a tasty, tender dish. Chefs unfamiliar with what Kosher meat has gone through before it lands on their butcher’s block will inevitably battle to bring out the best flavours.
RETAIL
A supermarket with a difference, Jackson’s Real Food Market in Bryanston owned by Gary Jackson, is all about responsible and ethical suppliers, full traceability and accountability. Gary has built his business with customers around his relationship with his suppliers, with regular trips to farms to better understand what farmers are doing to improve the land and their animals. Detailed discussions
FEATURE
on climate, pastures, breeds and soil lead to informed decisions. He calls this the “meat triad” requiring communication and transparency between farmers, meat processors and retailers and restaurants. “When all combine their efforts, everyone is successful and the customer gets a superior product at a good price,” he maintains. Gary acknowledges that chefs are under huge pressure to deliver on taste and price. He believes that where meat is of top quality, smaller portion sizes become more appropriate and affordable. He sees a “reawakening” in his customers: “People need to eat less, better quality food and buy nutrientdense meat,” he adds. As a retailer passionate about educating consumers, Gary regularly holds information sessions at the store
plus video clips online, engaging customers in conversation.
REMARKABLE WAGYU
Much has been made of kobe beef in Japan, the king of meats known for extreme tenderness and flavour. Wagyu beef is the local equivalent, produced by Chris Purdon of VJ Angus. He started the Angus breeding program in 1982 and the Wagyu in 2004. “Wagyu complements the Angus beautifully with their intense marbling and unsurpassed eating quality. Angus add volume, yield and some quality and Wagyu pushes it to the next level,” Chris explains. He lists opportunities of the breeds as high demand and consequently high prices for the product: “It is not just a commodity anymore but a
very specialised product,” he adds. Keeping up with demand and the logistics of getting meat to market are challenges. “The most popular cuts for restaurants are the primal cuts or ‘the sweet meat’: ribeye, sirloin, fillet and to a certain extent rump. Some of the more adventurous chefs and astute operators are well advanced in the use of the secondary cuts. We send samples of cuts like flatiron, Denver, rib steak strips and brisket to the various restaurants and they are generally surprised at what can be done with those cuts,” Chris explains. The devastating drought in most of the country during the past few years has affected cattle herds across the board, with farmers forced to slaughter valuable dairy and breeding stock.
WOODVIEW WAGYU BEEF – THE CAVIAR OF BEEF
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Woodview Wagyu Beef has been judged the winner of the “Ultimate Beef Challenge”. Woodview Wagyu won every category and is the benchmark for premium quality beef.
W WOODVIEW ®
oodview Farm devotes extraordinary care and attention to the quality rather than the quantity of their beef. We produce world-class beef in the safest, most humane way possible, strictly without any additives or antibiotics.
WHAT MAKES IT GREAT?
Wagyu Beef is considered to be the most tender and tasty meat in the world. This comes from the Wagyu breed’s unique ability to
infuse marbling into the muscle. When cooked, this marbling dissolves and makes the meat melt in your mouth and succulent. Wagyu Beef contains high concentrations of omega fatty acids, which are proven to have many health benefits.
Order your gourmet beef online for door to door delivery. www.wagyu.co.za
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FEATURE
Chris and Willem say farmers have entered a rebuilding phase, growing their herds once again, but this process takes several years: Willem notes that from birth to slaughter weight is usually between three and four years, so a shortage of stock can be expected. The massive 2017 maize crop is also impacting the industry, says Chris, with farmers using the maize themselves because of the relatively low prices. “Disposable income is limited and there is very little money around, but I predict
the beef price will still be in the reach of most consumers,” he adds. He furthers, “The grades of Wagyu fall outside of the standard classification system of South Africa which only grades on age and fat cover. The Wagyus are generally slaughtered at 36 months or older and are graded on MS or marbling score. In Australia it goes from 0, not marbled, to 9, very marbled. In Japan their scale goes from 0 to 12.” Chris says portion size of Wagyu beef remains standard.
THE GRADES OF WAGYU FALL OUTSIDE OF THE STANDARD CLASSIFICATION SYSTEM OF SOUTH AFRICA WHICH ONLY GRADES ON AGE AND FAT COVER.
QUICK QUIZ Test how well you know your meat: 1. Which animals are described as bovine? 2. Which animals are described as porcine? 3. Which animals are described as ovine? 4. Which animals are described as caprine? 5. What do MRM and MDM stand for? 6. How many spider, oyster or Pope’s eye steaks are found on a carcass? 7. Where is the eye of round found on the carcass? 8. What does a Mashgiach do? 9. What is the difference between boerewors and braaiwors? 10. What is the Maillard reaction?
who discovered the process in the early 1900s. Named after chemist Louis-Camille Maillard Celcius, adding colour and creating flavour. sugar as meat is heated above 140 degrees reaction between an amino acid and a reducing browning, it is the term for the chemical braaiwors doesn’t have to; 10) also called must adhere to the relevant legislation while an establishment; 9) boerewors composition leg of the animal; 8) the Kosher supervisor of meat and fat located inside the hip; 7) the rear deboned meat; 6) two – they are semi-circles of mechanically removed meat and mechanically Answers: 1) cattle; 2) pigs; 3) sheep; 4) goats; 5)
© PIVOFY, FOODIESFEED.COM
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LYNCA MEATS
LYNCA MEATS From its humble beginnings in 1988, Lynca Meats has grown to become one of the major contributors to the pork landscape in South Africa, processing over 230 000 pigs annually.
IMAGES © SHAWN DRIMAN
1
00% manufactured in SA, at the heart of Lynca Meats is a passion to inspire people from all walks of life with industry innovation and world class meat products. To underpin this passion and purpose and to always ensure consistent quality for peace of mind, Lynca Meats applies and is accredited with the highest quality management system worldwide, FSSC22000. Food safety is an increasingly complex undertaking and producing safe, high quality and nourishing food is fundamental to Lynca Meats’ existence. All quality certifications, highlighting that Lynca Meats systems rate amongst the best in the world to ensure food safety and consistent quality, includes; Pork360 Abattoir Registration; SANS 10330: 2007 HACCP (SABS); PAS 220 (SABS); Woolworths Proof of Audits; Food Safety Assessment Audits and
Export Status Certificate (ZA14). Through its principle production facility 20 minutes south of Johannesburg, Lynca Meats supplies frozen primal cuts to the food service, wholesale, butchery and retail industries and includes legs, loins, neck, shoulder, belly, ribs and trimmings. A dedicated department that focusses solely on short notice fit for purpose innovation, including primal cuts, ensures Lynca Meats consistently matches its customers’ and market needs. An experienced management team with a proven track record has ensured that the complete service offering has continuously grown and evolved whilst always providing consistent quality. This currently includes carcasses, primal
cuts, offal, contract slaughter and deboning services, and processed products (bacon, hams, sausages, cooked marinated ribs, smoked prioducts and many more). Lynca Meats has also recently commissioned a cold storage facility that provides it with the value added service capability of offering multi-principle cold storage warehousing and logistical solutions to a range of clients.
CONTACT DETAILS Further information on Lynca Meats can be found by visiting their website at www.lyncameats.co.za, liking their Facebook page at www.facebook.com/ LyncaMeats/, or by simply phoning them at +27 016 360 4600.
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FEATURE
OSTRICH MEAT - RED MEAT WITH WINGS Ostrich occupies a category of its own, as red meat from game birds. Ries Dempsey, marketing and sales manager at Klein Karoo International explains what makes this healthy meat increasingly popular. Although the price of ostrich is slightly higher than beef, it contains pure meat and no waste, Ries says, with no fat, bones, sinews or additives.
He notes, “Quite a few of our customers are preferring to take the whole carcass and do their own portioning which seems to be the trend nowadays. It suits me because I have limited butchery skills and equipment. I specialise in breeding and feeding the animals and do a fair bit of marketing.” Hotels like Indaba in Johannesburg,
which does brisk business in conferences, banqueting as well as accommodation, restaurants and spa, has a fully equipped in-house butchery. They buy in whole carcasses and derive maximum benefit by applying the nose-to-tail philosophy and breaking it down for use in a myriad of dishes.
Ostrich meat is generally a giant drumstick, with meat from the legs the primary part of the bird that is consumed. The neck may also be used as a stewing cut or in potjies. The liver and heart are secondary cuts, with liver pâté also popular. “Restaurants want the prime fillet in 1.2kg to 1.4kg muscle packs. Most restaurants prefer to portion themselves and we do sell catering fillets of 200g each,” Ries explains. Retail has lead restaurants in the growing demand for
ALTHOUGH THE PRICE OF OSTRICH IS SLIGHTLY HIGHER THAN BEEF, IT CONTAINS PURE MEAT AND NO WASTE, WITH NO FAT, BONES, SINEWS OR ADDITIVES.
ostrich meat, with consumers buying ostrich in their supermarkets as fillets, steaks, goulash, sausages, mince, kebabs and biltong. Ries says that the general rule of thumb when cooking ostrich is to not overcook the meat. Meat should be cooked to medium-rare.
STEFAN STREBL - UNSPLASH
IMAGES COURTESY OF KLEIN KAROO
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KLEIN KAROO
KLEIN KAROO OSTRICH MEAT Ostrich meat is very tasty and delicious, there are two main aspects: it is a healthy alternative red meat, and is also very environmentally friendly.
ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY & HUMANE Less Methane Gas
The ostrich (Struthio camelus) being indigenous to the Little Karoo prefers a hot, arid climate. Ostriches breed very well, with one hen laying 40-60 eggs per season compared with a cow that will only produce a single calf each year. The biggest part of the ostrich’s diet is Lucerne, which grows excellently in this region, and our gravelly soil contains all the stones necessary which the bird swallows and uses as ‘choppers’ to grind its food. Its digestive system has a huge environmental advantage in that it produces much less methane gas than other livestock. Ostriches are also much more efficient at converting their feed into live weight than other livestock. They grow quickly which is the key to their survival on the savannah. Our ostriches are raised to a live mass of about 90kg in natural surroundings on privately owned farms. The producers are responsible farmers, aiming to raise the birds in the most acceptable way according to legislation of EU and DAFF. All ostriches from KKI are bred using good animal welfare protocols.
The Five Freedoms
The five freedoms are part of the good farming practise to ensure animal welfare and cruelty-free farming: • Freedom from thirst, hunger, and malnutrition. • Freedom from discomfort. • Freedom from pain,
injury, and disease. • Freedom from fear and distress. • Freedom to express normal behaviour.
Nutrition of Ostriches
Ostriches are fed on pastures such as wheat, alfalfa, and alfalfa hay as well as energy and protein supplements to ensure a balanced ration. This includes maize, barley, oats, soya and canola; and bran. Lucerne makes up a large part of their diet. No animal protein sources are used and no growth stimulants are administered. The meat is free of any systematically administered antibiotics.
meat. It is also low in collagen, a good source of iron, and low in kilojoules. This means it greatly benefits people with active lifestyles. The iron also makes ostrich an ideal protein source for people with anaemia, all without compromising on taste.
Contact Details
KLEIN KAROO International Ltd PO Box 241, Koöperasie Street, Oudtshoorn, South Africa, 6620 Tel: +27 (0)44 203 6200 Fax: +27 (0)44 272 8969 E-mail: meat@kleinkaroo.com www.kleinkaroomeat.com
HEALTH CHARACTERISTICS OF OSTRICH MEAT
The demand for ostrich meat is increasing, as a healthy alternative red meat. It is naturally low in fat and high in protein, with only 1.4g of fat and 22g of protein per 100g of
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LAKELAND
LAKELAND’S DELICIOUS
DESSERT TOPPINGS
In the pursuit of finding innovative and quality products for the foodservice industry, Lakeland Food Company has meticulously formulated a range of delectable dessert toppings designed and packaged specifically for the restaurant and hotel industry.
ST R AW BE
W
e understand the need for cost effective, quality products that are easy to use” says Lakeland’s MD Frans Bekker. “The foodservice industry has become highly competitive, and every establishment is fighting for their market share. New establishments are opening up all the time, in an
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R RY
already over-traded industry. Every operator is under pressure to provide their guest with a great culinary experience. It is with this in mind that Lakeland aims to meet these demands by providing a range of fruit and savoury-based products specifically geared for the foodservice industry.” The HACCP certified factory is based in George Western Cape,
MIXED BE R RY
and distributes to all major centres throughout South Africa. Their route to market is through most of the foodservice wholesalers. Over and above their artisan milkshake syrups (featured in the Sept edition of SA Chef), they have developed a range of dessert toppings that have proved very popular.
LAKELAND
TASTY DESSERT TOPPINGS Lakeland’s delectable dessert toppings are specially designed and packaged for the industry, and come in the following flavours: •
Chocolate (with 30% real chocolate)
•
Strawberry
•
Passionfruit
•
Mixed Berry
•
Vanilla
The fruit toppings contain a high percentage of real fruit, while the chocolate has over 30% real chocolate. The vanilla sauce offers an interesting visual twist to it, as there are vanilla seeds within the sauce that give a different impact once plated.
LAKELAND’S DESSERT TOPPING SYRUP RANGE © STUART BRINK
THE SCIENCE BEHIND THE SAUCE
Bekker explains what sets these sauces apart from many of the other sauces that are currently available. “When a patron orders chocolate sauce with his ice-cream, they want to taste chocolate, not an imitation of chocolate. The same applies to fruit. The sensation of berry seeds in ones mouth or that wonderful earthy taste of real strawberry is what we have aimed to achieve. In addition to this, the visual effects of are of
equal importance. We have worked very hard at making sure that these sauces not only taste like passion fruit, but look like passion fruit too.” The spout on the bottle is also more user friendly and makes the chef’s job easier when it comes to delicate plating. Probably what has been most interesting is the multitude of applications that these sauces are being used for. Over and above the conventional topping for desserts, these products are being used for gourmet milkshakes
OVER AND ABOVE THE CONVENTIONAL TOPPING FOR DESSERTS, THESE PRODUCTS ARE BEING USED FOR GOURMET MILKSHAKES AND FRAPPÉS, PLATE DECORATIONS AS WELL AS INCLUSIONS IN YOGHURTS ON BREAKFAST BUFFETS.
and frappés, plate decorations as well as inclusions in yoghurts on breakfast buffets. Chefs are using the mixed berry sauce as an alternative to cranberry sauce for pork and venison dishes. Fresh chilli is added to the chocolate sauce as an interesting accompaniment with steak. Quinton Hewitt, owner of The Bayleaf Cafe sums up this product range best. “I love using these products. The flavours are natural, the colours realistic and it helps that they have a good shelf life.”
CONTACT LAKELAND For more information about Lakeland Food Company, visit www.lakelandfoodco.com, call +27 (0) 44 878 0024 or email info@lakelandfoodco.com.
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NEWS
INFOCHEF 2017
AFRICA OUTSTANDING! Kabelo Segone, MC and vice-president of the Association, was a man on fire at InfoChef Africa 2017 held at the Indaba Hotel, Spa & Conference Centre in Fourways, Johannesburg on 10 and 11 August. He had the 1 400 delegates – students, trainees and chefs – enthused and focused on the multitude of learning and career opportunities. Young, future chefs came from 13 high schools and 13 chefs’ schools and were joined by many senior chefs at this annual event.
T
he programme of events was spread across various areas at the hotel, allowing for indoor and outdoor interactions, presentations, demonstrations, workshops, exhibitions and networking opportunities. Highlights included: • MacBrothers Injabulo Room – topics on the agenda: Greener efficiency in kitchens; how to apply for funding; culinary careers out of the kitchen; success stories from NYCTP graduates; young chefs’ international work experiences; training opportunities available; opportunities to participate in the Association e.g. the Young Chefs Club (YCC); climbing the culinary ladder; role of WACS; small and emergent producers and food system change (the iZindaba Zokudla experience); popularity of chef career; what it takes to be a culinary Springbok. • Speakers: Stephen Billingham, president; James Khoza, vice president; Kabelo Segone, vice president; Adrian Vigus Brown, Melrose Arch Hotel and chairman of YCC; Fungai Muzorewa, regional executive chef at MacBrothers; Steven Seydou, Nedbank; Alice Taylor Surrige, Tiger Brands; Megin Meikle,
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pastry chef at Saxon; Skhumbuzo Nicklas Thwala; Daleen Terblanche and Karen Rossouw, Guvon Academy; Adrian Vaughan, Time Square; Tshepang Mpho Mabe and Basetsana Mphelo, Centre for Culinary Excellence; Jonathan Ross; Jodi Gillespie; among others. • Guvon Edu-Village provided an interactive and fun exhibition for future chefs to engage with the various training providers and related services. Workplaces, recruitment companies and banks also had stands, ensuring potential students could have all their questions answered in one venue. Each stand offered students a tasty treat, in a “Taste my School Competition”. • Taste My School Competition: Voted for by delegates by dropping a red bead in a jar of the school in the Guvon Edu-Village with the tastiest snacks, winner was the Limpopo Cookery School and in second place was the School of Tourism & Hospitality. Mac Brothers supplied as main prizes for the winning school a hot holding cabinet and a table module four burner grill with fish plate. Runner-up received modular two burner boiling table. Both schools won
Snappy Chef Induction Stoves. • Huletts Injabulo Foyer: Various interactive, small group workshops showcasing the latest icing, piping and dipping techniques. • Ndaba Palace: Intimate and interactive demonstrations across a range of ingredients and preparation, cooking and presentation skills. • NYCTP Competition: NYCTP graduates showcased their skills in a two-course plating competition. Winners were Thobi Skosana (R10 000), second place went to Kabelo Tabane (R5 000) and in third place was Skhumbuzo Thwala (R2 500). • WACS judging course: Garth Shnier, complex executive chef at Time Square, held a two-day WACS judging course for some 14 chefs on theoretical and practical aspects of international judging. Attendees hold a mix of Category B and C WACSaccredited judging certification. Every five years WACS judges must renew their licences by undergoing training of this nature. Garth is a Category A judge and one of only a handful of people in the world approved by the WACS training committee to host these courses.
NEWS
NYCTP IN THE NEWS This forward-thinking initiative by the National Department of Tourism, which is project managed by the SA Chefs Association, has seen many young South Africans gain permanent employment in the sector.
1) GRADUATIONS
Graduation ceremonies for National Youth Chefs Training Programme (NYCTP) students attended by the National Department of Tourism (NDT) were held in the Western Cape, Eastern Cape and KwaZulu-Natal in September.
Western Cape:
Some 50 students graduated at the Park Inn by Radisson Cape Town Foreshore on 22 August. Pictured here (from right) are: Neil Clem (Tsebo executive chef); Dr Mandisa Patani (Cape Peninsula University of Technology); Lomvula Mavuso (deputy director NDT SRI); Allister Esau (senior vice president of SA Chefs); Elizabeth Thabethe Deputy Minister NDT); Bulelwa Seti (chief director NDT Skills Development) and Hudson Masondo (NYCTP project coordinator).
Eastern Cape:
Some 44 students graduated at Mdantsane Arts Centre in East London on 5 September. The graduation was attended by the Minister of Tourism Tokozile Xasa and guest speaker was executive chef and coowner of two SuperSpar stores, Jonathan McGlashan. Students were introduced to an employment opportunity available at the Cecilia Makiwane Hospital and eight learners were accepted on the spot.
NYCTP ON SABC2’S HECTIC NINE TV SHOW
Top achievers:
Alfresco International Academy • Certificate Class (School): Anelisa Tole • Pastry Class(School): Xoliswa Mbunge
KwaZulu-Natal:
In Durban, 89 students attended their graduation ceremony at Sugar Ray Xulu Stadium, jointly conducted with the Imbizo. Students came from the 1 000 Hills Chef School and Fusion Cooking School. The event was a Ministerial Graduation attended by the Mayor of Ethekwini, Cllr Zandile Gumede and the Deputy Minister of Tourism, Elizabeth Thabethe. Xanthos Giannakopoulos, executive chef at Durban Country Club, was guest speaker.
Top Achievers:
1000 Hills Chefs School • Diploma Class(Nationally): Sipho Mbatha • Pastry Class(Nationally): Sabastian Porras
Fusion Cooking School: • Diploma (School): Zuma Benedictor • Pastry Class (School): Thandeka Ngidi
2) NYCTP TAKES IN 300 NEW TRAINEES, SIGNS NEW CONTRACT
After more than 30 000 applications were received for the NYCTP learnership, 300+ new intakes have been identified. The programme started on 16 October 2017. They form part of R74 million-investment by the National Department of Tourism and implemented by the South African Chefs Association to train and develop unemployed youth between the ages of 18 and 35 years. A new and final three-year NYCTP contract between the NDT and SA Chefs Association has been signed.
3) NYCTP CHEFS ON TV
NYCTP graduates showcased their skills, preparing heritage dishes on SABC2’s Hectic Nine 9 TV show.
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NEWS
INTERNATIONAL CHEFS DAY
A
number of charitable initiatives were held around the country on 20 October in honour of International Chefs Day. SA Chefs was involved in the “Foods for Healthy Heroes” themed event with Nestlé Professional, during which young children got to be chef for a day and learn about preparation of healthy meals.
NATIONAL TOURISM CAREERS EXPO IN BLOEM A BLAST
T
he 2017 National Tourism Careers Expo in Bloemfontein was an opportunity for SA Chefs to promote its National Youth Chefs Training Programme.
During a fun interactive demonstration, project manager Hudson Masondo, Centre for Culinary Excellence junior lecturer Basetsana Mphelo and vice president of SA
Chefs Kabelo Segone shared tips on how to prepare the perfect chicken schnitzel with Deputy Minister of Tourism Elizabeth Thabethe and North-West MEC for Education Louisa Mabe.
FUNDRAISING
DINNER IN WC T
he Western Cape region hosted its annual gala dinner on 28 October 2017, at the Vineyard Hotel in Newlands. Seats cost R480 per person or R4 500 for a table of ten. The cost included complimentary wine and water, with a cash bar available. All funds raised were donated to the Amy Biehl Foundation.
20
NEWS
NATIONAL TEAM
MEMBERS ANNOUNCED
Team trials were held around the country in August and Trevor Boyd, team manager, announced the new national team in October: SENIOR Henrico Grobbelaar
Executive chef, Cape Town Marriott Crystal Towers
Dion Ventagass
Chef de cuisine, Belmond Mount Nelson
Kirstin Hellemann
Junior sous chef, Belmond Mount Nelson
Jonathan Roos
Head chef, Sandton Sun
Adrian Vigus Brown
Head chef, Melrose Rose Hotel
David Loate
Sous chef, Sun City Entertainment Centre
Bradley van Niekerk
Chef de partie, The Round House
Aphelele Dlungana
Chef de partie, The Round House
Burton Leo
Senior sous chef, The Table Bay Hotel
SENIOR PASTRY Oscar Baard
Pastry chef, La Petit Ferme
Lee-Andra Govender
Sous chef pastry, Sun Time Square
JUNIOR Kyle Arnold
Fusion World Food Café
Jaen-Marie Breytenbach - Pastry
Chef de partie pastry, Sun Time Square
Dirito Mangezi - Pastry
Chef de partie pastry, Sun Time Square
NEW NATIONAL TEAM HEADED UP BY TREVOR BOYD
T
he team is pictured here at team practice on 7 October at Glenburn Lodge in Johannesburg. A number of senior international competition chefs, such as Garth Shnier, join Trevor in ongoing training of the team, assessing skills and competing in various local and international events in the buildup to the 25th edition of the IKA/ Culinary Olympics in 2020 in Germany, which has a new format and is moving from its long-time home in Erfurt to Stuttgart. The global culinary competition will take place during Intergastra and is organised by the German Chefs’ Association (VKD) and the Stuttgart Fairgrounds. Some 2 000 chefs from more than 50 countries will participate in the world’s largest culinary competition, vying for gold, silver and bronze medals.
NEW NATIONAL TEAM COACHED BY GARTH SHNIER
21
NEWS
OSCAR AND LIV WITH CHEF PATRON CHANTEL DARTNALL (CENTRE) AT RESTAURANT MOSAIC
OSCAR AND LIV MEET FELLOW YOUNG CHEFS IN SA
BILL’S FEAST FURTHERS CAREERS OF YOUNG CHEFS
Development of young chefs was always a passion of Dr Billy Gallagher. The first Bill’s Feast will raise funds towards his training foundation.
T
he inaugural Bill’s Feast dinner was held at Hilton Sandton on 18 August. A special menu was created in remembrance of Dr Billy Gallagher by top chefs Stuart Cason, James Khoza, Martin Kobald, Heinz Brunner, Stephen Billingham and Judi Dyer and was priced at R475 per person. This annual fundraising event will in future be held on the anniversary of Billy’s birthday, 17 August, in Johannesburg, Cape Town and Durban. The dinner, organised by Duane and John Riley of BGA (Billy Gallagher & Associates), was attended by 106 people, with a total of R32 000 raised by auction of items donated for that purpose: • Chef statuette given to Billy for
22
his 50 th birthday in 1998 and signed by a number of chefs, including the late Walter Ulz; Heinz Brunner; Fritz Flatcher; Garth Shnier and Philippe Frydman, to name a few. • Oldenburg 12 bottle Ruby Legends presentation case, one of which carries the autographs of several rugby legends. • KWV 1933 Muscadel, brandies, sherries and Jerepigo 1933 valued at R15 000. • Signed copy of Billy’s autobiography, “Lettuce and a Lady’s Breast” Funds go towards the Billy Gallagher Foundation and advancement and assistance of young chefs. BGA continues Billy’s initiative of having two international young
chefs visit South Africa through the Billy Gallagher Young Chefs Forum (see side bar) for a culinary and cultural tour of the country. It is hoped that this programme in future will include sending young South African chefs overseas. MC for the evening was Jenny Morris (aka “giggling gourmet”), Ilze Mazzone serenaded diners and the feast, which began with a selection of canapés, included: • Amuse-Bouche by James Khoza – Szechuan spiced duck: Duck breast, duck liver pâté and confit leg, with peppadew and passionfruit and edamame bean salad (served with Oldenburg Chenin Blanc 2015) • Starter by Martin Kobald – New England clam chowder:
NEWS
Clams with a shellfish broth, potatoes, smoked bacon, cream onion and thyme (served with Oldenburg Chardonnay 2014) • Entrée by Heinz Brünner – Merlu timbale “Linbi”: Oven poached merlu (hake) timbale served on a pancetta infused pea purée with turmeric foam (served with Oldenburg Syrah 2013) • Main course by Stephen Billingham – Slow cooked Newcastle Brown Ale and steak pie (Billy was an ardent supporter of Newcastle United Football Club) with cauliflower and parsnip purée, charred Brussels sprouts and glazed root vegetables (served with Oldenburg Merlot 2013) • Dessert by Judi Dyer – Ebony and Ivory: A remake of the award-winning Culinary Olympics 1984 chefs’ dessert of white and dark chocolate mousse and profiteroles with Finesse (served with Oldenburg Viognier 2015)
the 17th August to pay tribute to the late, great Dr Bill Gallagher.” Duane and John Riley of BGA said of the evening, “The greatest thing about the hospitality industry is seeing guests really enjoying themselves. Sitting at the elegantly draped tables, with great food and excellent wines in front of them, little do they know what planning and preparation
BILLY’S LEGACY OF CHEF TRAINING LIVES ON
the level of innovation and striving to improve in local kitchens. Oscar maintained a travel blog on
The two chefs selected to take part in
the WACS Young Chefs home page as
the Bill Gallagher Young Chefs Tour, Liv
well as on Facebook. This is what they
Andersson, national board chairperson
shared on Day 3 after a tour of Soweto:
of Young Chefs Sweden (age 20) and
“We started our day with Chef Courtney
Oscar Bui, vice president Young Chefs
Wood and tour guide, Jimmy Maroana.
Club, Victoria Chapter of the Australian
Jimmy took us on a tour through
Culinary Federation (age 25), spent
Soweto, a town of Joburg where we
two weeks travelling around South
were able to witness the extremities
Africa from 24 August to 4 September.
of various lifestyles all happening at
They were selected at the WACS Young
one location. The rich, the average
Chefs Forum and made the most of
and the poor. It was very important
every minute of this once-in-a-lifetime
for us to be able to see this. It shows
opportunity.
that although South Africa is one of
The intensive itinerary that involved
“The South African Chefs Association was very proud and honoured to have been involved in this event as we all paid tribute to our Honorary Life President Dr Billy Gallagher,” says Association president Stephen Billingham. “I would like to acknowledge Duane and John Riley of BGA for their involvement in the setting up and arranging of the function. Thanks to the executive chef Stuart Cason and the general manager Gert Venter of the Sandton Hilton for their support and the generous sponsorship of the venue. My special moment was to hear Heinz Brünner pay an emotional tribute to his lifelong friend and colleague. It has been agreed that Bill’s Feast will become an annual function on the hospitality calendar each year on
has gone into making an event such as Bill’s Feast a success.” They add, “Our objective was achieved - a successful dinner, with sufficient funds raised to continue with Billy’s Gallagher’s Young Chefs Tour initiative for 2017. We have started with the planning of next year’s function which will be even bigger and better – watch this space!”
the most competitive culinary nations
culinary, cultural, entertainment,
and holds many great advances as a
educational and networking
country, big communities of the people
opportunities organised by Duane Riley
are still struggling very hard. We get
of BGA started with a visit to Billy and
to acknowledge the fact that globally,
Linda Gallagher’s memorial site, learning
our industry should not only focus on
more about the enormous impact
providing just the best food service, but
South Africa’s much-loved chef had
also do everything in our power to give
and continues to have on industry. Top
everyone a good chance at life. This
chefs, suppliers and friends of industry
is something that the SACA is being a
opened their doors and hearts to these
wonderful role-model for.”
two young visitors, welcoming them into
They were amazed at the many
their kitchens, factories and markets.
different types of kitchens in South
SA Chefs members around the country
Africa and wide range of cuisine, each
stepped in to host the youngsters during
totally different. They were also struck
their travels.
by how deeply entrenched tourism and
The first thing both Liv and Oscar
hospitality are in the country, with chefs
noted when asked about their overall
willing to share knowledge and skills
impression of South Africa’s culinary
and help each other improve. This spirit
industry, was the camaraderie of chefs
of generosity is what they took back to
and how youngsters are mentored and
their countries, kitchens and teams. And
guided more here than even in their home
tales of the distinctive local delicacy and
countries. They were also impressed by
acquired taste that is the mopane worm.
23
FEATURE
CRAFTING
CONDIMENTS Small-batch, artisanal, niche – condiments like spices, relishes and preserves are the stuff of flavour, exploration and innovation. Susan Reynard chats to conscious and conscientious chefs.
E
xploring the world of artisanal foods is exciting and confusing. For starters, what qualifies as “artisanal”? (See side bar.) And is this the same as “home-made” or “tuisnywerheid”? How hygienic is a small kitchen compared with a HACCP-approved factory? And does any of this matter if the taste and price are right? Navigating the world of
small batch foods – referred to as artisanal here for ease of reference – requires knowledge of and faith in suppliers. Chefs and consumers are spoilt for choice with a vast selection of suppliers of all sizes, each with a role to play in the marketplace to add convenience, diversity, innovation and experimentation. It all depends on how much
latitude chefs are given in their kitchens when it comes to choosing suppliers, what is available in their region and their conscious delivery of food. A chat with Nick Gordon and Andrea Burgener of The Leopard+ delicatessen at 44 on Stanley in Milpark, Johannesburg reveals a take on ingredients that is more closely linked with what we think
ARMANDO MONIKA GRABKOWSKA - UNSPLASH
24
FEATURE
© JAMES SUTTON - UNSPLASH
NICK GORDON AND ANDREA BURGENER OF THE LEOPARD + DELICATESSEN AT 44 ON STANLEY IN MILPARK, JOHANNESBURG
© CORREEN - UNSPLASH
THE LEOPARD +’S ROSEMARY AND CHILLI OLIVES
words like artisanal mean. Their objective is to source and stock the best of every type of ingredient that meets the needs of conscious consumers, like themselves. Their restaurant of the same name, which they closed earlier this year before opening the deli, had a similar philosophy. Those who know the menu will many see familiar favourites as condiments and ready-meals alongside products like cheese, milk, butter and eggs from suppliers the couple know and trust. Nick says a deli is about exploration and discovery and
they stock items (mix of their own label, local and international suppliers) that cater for consumers who know what they’re looking for. Products across the shelves and fridges have been carefully selected based on their core ingredients. What they can’t get hold of, like free-range pork charcuterie, they make themselves. He admits that getting hold of ingredients is easier in places like KwaZulu-Natal and Cape Town where restaurants and diners are physically and emotionally more connected to nature, rather than in cities like Johannesburg.
WHAT’S IN A NAME? There is strict legislation in South Africa and around the world regarding food labelling and advertising claims. The Consumer Protection Act and the South African Food Labelling Regulations give consumers the right to protection against false, misleading or deceptive representation by suppliers and gives them the right to good quality and safe products. In some countries, like Ireland for example, there are legal guidelines for the use of vague and often unsubstantiated terms like “artisanal”, “farmhouse”, “traditional” and “natural”.
25
FEATURE
JESSICA RUSCELLO - UNSPLASH
FOODISM 360 - UNSPLASH
NATURALLY THE COSTS WILL BE HIGHER AS THE PRODUCTS I’M TALKING ABOUT ARE MADE BY HAND AND ON A SMALLER SCALE IN COMPARISON TO THE BIG BRANDS, BUT I REALLY DON’T MIND WHEN THE QUALITY IS MEMORABLE. I CONSIDER MYSELF AND MY SCHOOL VERY LUCKY THAT QUALITY MUST ALWAYS COME FIRST.
JACKIE CAMERON
26
Jackie Cameron, award-winning chef, culinary competition judge and owner of Jackie Cameron School of Food & Wine in Hilton, KwaZulu-Natal says they have many top suppliers on their doorstep. She has long been a supporter of small and artisanal suppliers and teaches her students to respect ingredients before all else. “It really just makes sense to me. When driving around the area, the fields and pastures are truly stunning and beautifully lush. It seems the best way to go to make my food as delicious as possible. We have a little school outlet that has been running alongside our pop-up brunch restaurant
that sells all my favourite products under one roof and it makes it easy for guests to do a one-stop shop of quality that isn’t always easy to find in this area,” she says. One of her favourite products is Oryx salt (she has a little shaker in her handbag at all times) and she has collaborated with the brand to develop a braai salt. She is also a fan of Romesco Olives and their smoky Campfire Olives by Claire Blezard and Umsobo Jam made by Piet Conradie and his family in Botha’s Pass. Jackie lists her favourite suppliers on her website (www.jackiecameron.co.za). “Naturally the costs will be higher as the products I’m talking
FEATURE
DENNIS KLEIN - UNSPLASH
products are ready when needed. In her school, Jackie teaches her young chefs the importance of quality ingredients by taking them on a tour of suppliers’ facilities. “My students don’t cook chicken before we have seen where the chicken grows, where it lives and they have met the supplier and this pretty much goes for everything. We sometimes do taste comparisons between household brands and our artisanal products, including blind tastings, so that the products can speak for themselves. It makes sense to the students after tasting and I don’t really have to say anything,” she explains.
ARTUR RUTKOWSKI - UNSPLASH
about are made by hand and on a smaller scale in comparison to the big brands, but I really don’t mind when the quality is memorable. I consider myself and my school very lucky that quality must always come first,” she says. “We are in KZN so everything is a little harder and slower, but my suppliers are good friends and so important in my day-to-day running of my school. They are always willing to go the extra mile and help me out if need be. It really is a team effort.” To ensure steady supply, Jackie ensures she and her team are as organised as possible during peak season so that suppliers have their order lists well in advance and
27
FEATURE
SEEN IN SITU
Lavender and Rio Largo Olive Oil,
A trip to food shows, markets, delis,
among many others. Go to
butcheries and niche retailers reveals
www.lamarinafoods.co.za for a full list of products.
a vast range of choices. Just some of the condiments we’ve seen or heard of
•
Trumps Restaurant and Butchery:
recently include:
A peek through the window at this
•
Good Food & Wine Show
establishment on Nelson Mandela
Johannesburg, organised by Fiera
Square in Sandton, Johannesburg
Milano, showcased the following
reveals a range of spices ideally
niche products: Romesco Olives;
paired with their meat. Brands
Delagoa Bay Piri Piri sauces; Balsimo
include Nomu, which has an
Balsamic beads; The Real Food
extensive range of rubs and spices,
Factory sauces; Willow Creek Olive Oil
and Ruy’s sauces, with names like
and olives; EPA! sauces and pastes.
Babelas Chilli and Hell Fire, to name a few.
Go to www.goodfoodandwineshow. com for more information. •
•
•
Professional foodies and cookbook
The Leopard, 44 on Stanley: Currently
authors: A chat to Anna Trapido and
in stock under their own label are
Gwynne Conlyn revealed a long list
Sweet Chilli Ginger Syrup; Rosemary
of suppliers of truly niche products,
Chilli Olives; Fudge Sauce; Tumelo’s
including Mrs O Foods of African-
Chakalaka; Lemon Chilli Relish;
inspired cook-in sauces. They have
Caesar Dressing; Hoisin Satay;
met dozens of small suppliers
Arrabiata Style Sauce; Napolitana
around the country, hidden gems,
Style Sauce; and Chilli in Olive Oil. Go
ethically sourced food delis, makers
to www.leopardfoodcompany.com
of unusual pickles using indigenous
for a list of other preferred suppliers.
ingredients, farm stalls offering
La Marina Foods, Modderfontein:
condiments featuring flavours
A treasure trove of local and
from culturally significant cuisines
international culinary delights, they
like Cape Malay, and suppliers of
recommend Rozendal Vinegars in
spices and spice blends that reflect
Green Tea, Hibiscus or Fynbos &
countries across Africa.
TRUMPS BUTCHERY
KIRSTEN JOOSTE OF LA MARINA
The go-to supplier and deli for chefs and discerning home cooks in Gauteng for many years is La Marina Foods in Modderfontein, north of Johannesburg, owned by Kirsten Jooste. They started out with seafood in 1995 and have extended their product range across the board. Marketing manager Henry Fourie says, “When sourcing any products from a supplier, we have checks to ensure we only procure from reputable partners and we also require all necessary documentation for full traceability on anything we allow into our factory. As we conform to strict HACCP regulations we need to know from A to Z where product comes from.” He notes, “As we have been in the specialised food market for more than two decades, this gives us an edge in knowing where to start and understanding products. Quality and hygiene levels come first and we negotiate price to ensure we are extremely competitive in the market.”
FOOD HAS BECOME ART AND CHEFS ARE ALWAYS ASKING US, “WHAT’S NEW AND DIFFERENT?”
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FEATURE
LA MARINA
LA MARINA
Henry says food shows play a major role in influencing market trends: “Food has become art and chefs are always asking us, ‘What’s new and different?’” Some of the flavour trends he’s seeing now:
• • • •
Zesty and citrusy Variety of chilli flavours No synthetic flavourings Light lunches with neat and clean notes • Dinners with bold flavours
and precision plating • Truffle zest that is GMO and MSG-free • Sumac and za‘atar • Blend of multiple cultures in one unique dish
CHEF TIAAN ON B-WELL
OLIVE AND CANOLA OIL I have used B-well olive and canola oil blend for quite some time now. You get the great olive oil taste with all the health benefits of canola. I love using it for frying and dressing as well as for marinades and preserving things like garlic and chilli. You cannot go wrong with this affordable, good quality and very tasty product! I always have a couple of bottles handy! - Chef Tiaan Langenegger; winner and judge of the Kyknet TV cooking show Kokkedoor 2013. Tel: +27 (0)28 514 3441
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Email: info@bwellfoods.co.za
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Web: www.bwellfoods.co.za
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SPOTLIGHT
WINSTON THOMAS OF ORIGIN
KHAN CHANG OF UNCLE BEAR
SA REPRESENTED
IN WORLD COFFEE CHAMPS Winston Thomas of Origin Coffee, and Khan Chang of Uncle Bear Coffee Company will be competing in the World Championships from 9-12 November.
T
he world revolves around coffee and what better way to get up and smell the proverbial roses than as the South African champ competing in the World Barista Championships in Seoul, South Korea? This is the opportunity of a lifetime for two Cape Town-based coffee makers, Winston Thomas and Khan Chang. Thomas won the title of SA Barista Champion, while Chang took home the title of SA Aeropress Champion in July this year. The duo will be travelling to Seoul to compete in the World Championships from 9-12 November. Aeropress, a brewing method and device invented in 2005 by Aerobie President Alan Alder, is a precision art that results in either espressolike coffee or a brew similar to filter coffee. “I’m overwhelmed and excited by this opportunity to represent South Africa and humbled by winning the Aeropress
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Championship,” says Chang, “I’m super excited to be going to the World Aeropress Championships in Seoul for 2017 representing South Africa, and what I would like to reach is at least the top 3, and ultimately to win the world title. Getting SA on the coffee world map by being able to compete on the international stage alongside Winston is a game changer.” Uncle Bear is an artisanal coffee bar in Long Street, Cape Town, and quite possibly the smallest coffee bar in the city. Chang himself roasts the beans, procured from local green supplier Coffee Collaborative. “Excellence is what we aim for with our drinks,” says Reece Maritz, Manager of Uncle Bear. “We’re a micro coffee bar and we want to promote speciality coffee and have people realise that there’s a deep and rich coffee culture they can learn about.” Origin Coffee Roasting is
a renowned local coffee house also located in the City Bowl on Hudson Street. They’ve proven their weight in beans time and again with some incredible accolades. Winston Thomas, who’s Head Barista, Barista Trainer and parttime Wholesaler at Origin, says he’s been very busy preparing for the World Barista Championships. “The last three months have shown me the strength of community in our South African coffee industry,” he says. “There has been so much support in the build-up and in so many different ways I cannot express my gratitude enough to everyone. No man is an island. And a journey to the WBC cannot be undertaken alone. With all the factors to take into considering when competing in another country, it helps to know that I have a strong team of support that will be helping be throughout.” For more information, visit www.worldcoffeeevents.org.
SPOTLIGHT
ANELDE GREEFF OF EAT OUT, WITH CLAYTON MATARANYIKA, SAM MPARAGANDA OF SHIO
JENNIFER FERNANDEZ AND FRANCOIS DU TOIT OF FUEGO, WINNER OF THE BEST MEXICAN EATERY.
SOME OF THE CANAPES SERVED AT THE 2017 EAT OUT MERCEDES-BENZ BEST EVERYDAY EATERIES CELEBRATION.
EAT OUT ANNOUNCES
BEST EVERYDAY EATERIES
The Eat Out Mercedes-Benz Best Everyday Eateries were announced in late October with much fanfare and excitement. Congratulations to the deserving winners!
W
here do locals go for their favourite burgers, coffee and steaks? Wonder no more as South Africa’s top casual restaurants for 2017 have been announced. The winners of the third annual Eat Out MercedesBenz Best Everyday Eateries were revealed on two days in October – the 17th, where Western Cape winners were awarded, and the 24th, where winners from Gauteng, KwaZulu-Natal and Mpumalanga were celebrated. This comes after a year-long period of voting and a gruelling judging process. The top names in each category were determined by star ratings given by the public on www.eatout. co.za, in conjunction with scoring from professional Eat Out critics. “While the winners in previous years were chosen solely based on public reviews, this year restaurant owners and food enthusiasts asked for the experts on our panel of
critics to play a bigger role,” says Anelde Greeff, Editor In Chief of Eat Out. “Our critics visited each of the eligible restaurants that received enough high scores from fans to review them and gave their own scores. Final results were then based on a 50-50 composite rating from the public and the critics.”
WESTERN CAPE WINNERS Best Asian Eatery • Winner – Shio • Highly commended – Three Wise Monkeys Best Bistro • Winner – The Stack Eat Out Savanna Best Burger Eatery • Winner – Royale Eatery • Highly commended – Hudsons The Burger Joint (Claremont) Best Coffee Shop • Winner – Meraki (Stellenbosch)
• Highly commended – Betty Blue Bistro Best Country-Style Eatery • Highly commended – De Grendel Restaurant Best Indian Eatery • Winner – The Indian Chapter with Prim Reddy Best Mexican Eatery • Winner – Fuego Eat Out Tramontina Best Steakhouse • Winner – Primal Eatery • Highly commended – Rare Grill Best Tapas Eatery • Winner – Chefs Warehouse & Canteen • Highly commended – The Mess For more information or to see the full list of winners, visit www.eatout.co.za.
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McDONALD’S
WHAT’S THE BEEF WITH
MCDONALD’S?
From its creation in the 1940’s, McDonald’s has been supplying high-quality, affordable meals to millions of consumers around the globe – and had more than its fair share of detractors along the way. Let’s set the record straight.
ADDRESSING THE RUMOURS HEAD ON
We’ve all heard the nasty rumours about what’s really in a McDonald’s beef burger. One of the oldest conspiracy theories is that ground-up earthworms and cow eyeballs are a key component in McDonald’s burger patties. Gruesome videos of seemingly mutant meat being created in a lab have gone viral on
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social media platforms for years. Thankfully, all these grisly stories have been dispelled and the videos proven to be false, thanks in part to a clear, concise, and honest communication campaign called “Know Our Food”. If you’re still not convinced, here’s a snippet from the Know Our Food website, regarding those pesky cow eyeballs: “Eyes are not allowed for consumption within the food chain. Ground
beef must contain only fresh, boneless beef with no other ingredients or additives.” Got it!
What’s really in a McDonald’s beef burger?
McDonald’s burgers are made with 100% pure ground beef. The meat used is sourced from the shoulder, chuck, brisket, rib eye, loin and round. No fillers or additives are used, just a sprinkling of salt and pepper.
McDONALD’S
McDONALD’S IS PROUD OF ITS FOOD SAFETY AND FOOD QUALITY. THE COMPANY FOLLOWS RIGOROUS AND DEMANDING FOOD SAFETY AND QUALITY SPECIFICATIONS.
Where are the cattle reared, and in what conditions?
On the Know Our Food website, brief but informative video pods address key topics. On the subject of happy cows, McDonald’s SA quality assurance manager Amesha Mohun, visits Karan Beef’s feedlot in Gauteng, where cattle are bred to supply McDonald’s with highquality beef. “You cannot expect good production and health from an animal that is abused,” Karan Beef feedlot veterinarian Dr Dirk Verwoerd elucidates. Manure is removed through a consistent removal programme, ensuring the cattle are kept in a clean and safe environment. The cattle are fed three times a day, and have 24/7 access to cool potable water.
Where are the patties processed?
Karan Beef’s product is processed into the famous McDonald’s patties at Finlar Fine Foods in City Deep, Johannesburg. Finlar Fine Foods operations director Essop Dawood explains that a combination of lean forequarters and fattier flanks are used. “We use 100% beef, which is ground and then shaped at the former. There is no fillers or additives in the product. The real trick is that we form the patties under extremely high pressure,” he outlines.
Flash freezing – does it reduce the quality?
Once the patties are shaped, they are immediately frozen to preserve the quality of the product, and shipped to McDonald’s restaurants nationwide. Flash freezing ensures that there is no reduction in the quality, flavour and consistency of the beef. Flash freezing also preserves the chemical composition of the food as it slows down the degradation process. Products are then grilled from frozen to maintain the highest quality standards.
Food safety at McDonald’s
All companies in South Africa must comply with government regulations and standards. McDonald’s is proud of its food safety and food quality. The company follows rigorous and demanding food safety and quality specifications. At each McDonald’s restaurant, separate grills are used to cook the beef and chicken patties used in all meal options. The grills have sensors that determine the cooking time for products.
McDonald’s values in the spotlight
McDonald’s promotes an active lifestyle underpinned by solid knowledge of nutrition. If you’re unsure of the right product for you, visit www.mcdonalds.co.za menu, where each product is broken down into it’s individual nutritional components. All orders are packaged in 100% recyclable packaging; highlighting the company’s dedication to green practises. McDonald’s has invested in many sustainability measures in its restaurants over the past two years which have included building design, making sure that natural light and heat from the sun complement a minimum airconditioning design which form part of a programme McDonald’s SA CEO Greg Solomon, refers to as “Project Green and Growing”. This visionary programme targets a 20% saving in water consumption, a 20% saving on electricity consumption, 20% saving on costs and 20% saving on construction time as the brand continues on its strong growth path.
Is McDonald’s South Africa Halaal?
Yes. All McDonald’s restaurants are certified Halaal by the Muslim Judicial council.
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CELEBRATING STEPHEN
THE LIFE OF
A PRESIDENT
S
tephen Billingham took over the Presidency of the South African Chefs Association in July 2009 from Martin Kobold, before that Dr Billy Gallagher had been President for 26 years. Although Billy had done an exceptional job as President over nearly three decades; with a newly elected board, Stephen knew that he had to steer the SA Chefs ship in a slightly different direction and champion transformation and cement SA Chefs role in culinary education.
With this focus on diversity, he also needed to expand the SA Chefs member base. Great things had been done by the Association since 1974 and Stephen needed to strengthen and build on them. “I knew that when I stepped down as President, I wanted to leave the Association in the hands of ‘home-grown’ President – and one of the priorities for me was to make the board more representative of our nation. I also wanted to focus on skills development, education and transformation.” All of which have been achieved.
GROWTH OF THE ASSOCIATION DURING STEPHEN’S PRESIDENCY •
The Association is financially secure.
•
It continues to support, develop and nurture the local culinary industry.
•
Membership is four times bigger. In 2009, the Association had just over 2 500 members. At the end of Stephen’s Presidency, this number has grown to a staggering 9 000 plus members.
•
Trade exchange has become the patronage system.
•
Many more local chefs are placed in senior management positions. A vast number of home grown, local chefs have become Executive Chefs in kitchens and restaurants across the country.
•
The number of chefs’ schools has increased incrementally. With the rise in popularity globally of the ‘Celebrity Chef’, many more youngsters have entered the culinary industry.
•
Skills training programme for community caterers has positively affected over 400 local entrepreneurs
•
The Launch of the NYCTP has changed the lives of 2500 unemployed youth nationwide
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CELEBRATING STEPHEN
9 THINGS YOU MIGHT NOT KNOW ABOUT STEPHEN
Began his career in Nottingham, England
Obtained his O levels in nutrition food and cookery whilst at school
Received distinctions in Culinary Arts through City & Guilds in food and nutrition
Travelled from Nottingham, London to Manchester to South Africa for his career Has numerous qualifications in training assesment and culinary education
KEY OBJECTIVES DURING THE PRESIDENCY
1. Education: As his own business, HTA, focuses on culinary education, Stephen knew that he wanted this to be a priority at the Association too. Since 2012, SA Chefs has been registered as a SAQA Professional Body, representing the chefs, cooks and caterers of South Africa. This has resulted in qualifications for Chefs, by Chefs. The industry education standards have been raised and trade tests are now a thing of the future. 2. Continent-wide assistance: As the SA Chefs Association is the largest association across the continent, Stephen wanted
the local team to assist smaller associations across the continent with available resources. Stephen’s vision of a ‘Big Brother’ type association is now a reality. 3. Patronage: Thanks to SA Chefs’ presence at prominent trade and Public shows, such as Hostex and the Good Food and Wine Show, SA Chefs now has the trust of both the industry and the general public. As such, Patron Members has more than doubled since 2009. 4. Regional representation: Various regional committees have been added over the last eight years – and there are even regional chapters in smaller areas such as Limpopo.
Has extensive experience in top international and national hotels
The Owner and Managing Director of HTA School of Culinary Art
Designed the EDP and NYCTP training concepts for SA Chefs.
Inducted in SA Chefs in 1999
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CELEBRATING STEPHEN
IN HIS OWN WORDS PROUDEST MOMENT
“I will never forget the first NYCTP graduation that I attended as the President of SA Chefs. There was a lot of excitement in the air and the then Minister of Tourism, Marthinus van Schalkwyk, was also part of the ceremony. There must have been 300 young people there, all previously unemployed; The look on their faces as they received their
certificate was completely heartwarming and something I will always look back on fondly.”
PERSONAL SACRIFICES
“When I started this journey, my kids were aged three and one respectively. I have made tremendous personal sacrifices and have spent an immense amount of time away from my family and
business. Over my eight years as President, I have logged more than 12 000+ hours towards the SA Chefs Association. This has included local and international travel, functions, graduations, meetings, networking, gala dinners and more. Although it sounds glamorous, it is a massive amount of hard work, but I was happy to do it for the good of SA Chefs.”
WISHES FOR THE NEXT PRESIDENT
MESSAGE TO YOUNG CHEFS
THE LOCAL TOURISM AND HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY
“My wish and hope for the next President
“It takes a special person to become a
“This culinary industry is one of the
is that he continues to grow the
chef. You need to be tolerant and
fastest-growing industries both locally
Association and focus on educating chefs
understand the demands of the industry.
and globally. It is a growing industry
and stay humble.”
The dropout rate in the first three to five
with lots of local and international job
years of qualifying is quite high. You
opportunities – and local chefs are well
need to live it for many years and make
respected overseas because they are hard
a conscious decision to become a chef.
workers. A chef’s qualification really is
Young chefs need to remember that this
an ‘international passport’ because you
“I have become more patient and tolerant
is not simply a career, but a lifestyle.
don’t need to convert your qualification if
during my Presidency. I have also
Finally look after your feet! The world is
you work overseas. It is easy to travel the
become more confident.”
your oyster.”
world as a qualified chef.”
PERSONAL GROWTH
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CELEBRATING STEPHEN
STEPHEN S CULINARY INDUSTRY HEROES MARY MCGUIRE (DIRECTOR OF PROTEA HOTELS INSTITUTE FOR PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT) AND KAREN BORAIN (TRAINING AND DEVELOPMENT MANAGER FOR THE TSOGO SUN). These two ladies in the education field have laid the foundation and sculpted the chef training landscape of South Africa since the 1980’s.
HEINZ BRUNNER AND MANFRED MEULLERS (HONOURARY PRESIDENTS OF SA CHEFS) Since Billy passed away, I have had to lean more on Chefs Heinz and Manfred – their advice and friendship is priceless and I am forever indebted.
DR BILLY GALLAGHER (HONOURARY LIFE PRESIDENT OF SA CHEFS) On the local scene, I must mention Bill
GISSUR GUDMUNDSSON (FORMER WORLD PRESIDENT OF WORLDCHEFS)
gave me a lot of advice throughout my
Gissur was a good friend and colleague.
Presidency – it is something that I will
We spent hours talking chefs and chefs
always be eternally grateful for.
associations around the world.
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FEATURE
LIGHTS! CAMERA! #FOODPORN
How to take better food photographs using what you already have in your restaurant. A photographer, chef and marketing specialist share their secrets.
S
earch for #foodporn on Instagram and it will list literally hundreds of millions of posts. Images appeal to the senses and the emotions. Food images are increasingly used by chefs, restaurateurs, marketers, social media influencers and the dining public to showcase mouth-watering meals. Glenn McGinn, creative director
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at Visual Feast Productions, believes the reason food photography is increasing in popularity is partly due to the proliferation of cooking shows as well as people’s desire to share their personal experiences on this popular topic. “It’s really about a talking point: people talk about food a lot more today, they talk about trends and it’s become part of our personal lifestyle,” he says.
GLENN’S TEN TIPS FOR FABULOUS FOOD SHOTS:
1. Start with the end in mind:
What are you trying to achieve and what is the application? For example, images could be for a recipe book; your staff in the kitchen; a new menu presentation; a product launch; or a magazine. It’s important to know this before you begin
FEATURE
© BROOKE LARK / UNSPLASH
INCLUDING A LOCATION BACKDROP AT PARADISE SUN HOTEL INSTANTLY GIVES GUESTS AN IDEA, AND THE ABILITY TO START FANTISIING, ABOUT WHAT THEIR LUNCH LOCALE WILL BE AT THE HOTEL © KATE ELS
FOOD LOOKS MOST APPETISING IN NATURAL LIGHT SO SET UP NEAR A WINDOW. DO NOT USE THE FLASH ON THE CAMERA AS IT MAKES FOOD LOOK FLAT AND ROBS THE IMAGE OF VALUE AND DEPTH. THE ANGLE OF LIGHTING IS ALSO IMPORTANT.
as this guides the process to achieve the best results. 2. White balance: Different light sources give off different shades of colour i.e. fluorescent light versus natural light. It’s important to set up the white balance on whatever equipment you’re using otherwise the colours on the plate look wrong. 3. Depth of field: This refers to the portion of the picture that
appears in focus and in food photography a very shallow field of focus or depth works best. You want the food to be the centre of attention, drawing in the audience. 4. Light source: Food looks most appetising in natural light so set up near a window. Do not use the flash on the camera as it makes food look flat and robs the image of value and depth.
The angle of lighting is also important so play around and see whether the dish looks better from the back or side. Use of shadow also enhances depth, character and dimension and helps create a theme and feel to the image. 5. Equipment: You need to understand how to use the equipment you have, whether a mobile phone or camera.
39
FEATURE
Use a tripod to avoid picture shake and get a reflector – a piece of white polystyrene will do – to place behind food to give it back lighting. Bouncing light is simple to achieve and makes for an effective photo. 6. Props: Look at what’s placed around your food as these items set the scene and enhance the photograph. Fresh ingredients included in the image make food more relatable, so if you see chillis or herbs you know what you’re looking at. Tableware, glassware and cutlery also inform the type of dish and what you’re trying to portray.
© JEAN-PIERRE LENFERNA DE LA MOTTE
MASTER YOUR MOBILE
5. If the food is stacked, shoot from the side, otherwise create a slightly
keep up with it is necessary to promote
specialise in digital content, creating
messy flatlay and shoot from above.
yourself as a chef. Most PR companies
imagery and copy that is appealing and
A 45 degree angle also works well.
will ask you if you have any existing blogs
unique for each brand they work with,
6. Recreate an actual table rather than
or Instagram accounts for two reasons:
including hotel groups like Tsogo Sun
shooting a dish in isolation. Set the
to discern if you have followers as a
and restaurants like Rosto. They share
table, add a glass of wine or a beer,
marketing channel and content in terms
some simple suggestions for producing
and your photos will immediately
of images. I enjoy taking the time out
great images with your cell phone
look more inviting.
for styling and photographing my own
7. Learn how to edit your photos to 1. Make sure the light is behind you,
food and the more I do it the better I am
enhance them: There are lots of free
becoming at it. I am busy working on
don’t shoot into the light. If light
apps and tutorials online to edit your
setting up a website for myself and am
is streaming in from behind the
photos better on a phone. We love
also planning my first cookbook for the
dish, it will just turn into a terrible
Snapseed and VSCO, both free
near future,” he adds.
silhouette.
and effective.
2. Clean your lens, they get really
BASIC TIPS:
grubby. This is particularly true
Jean-Pierre Lenferna De la Motte, winner
for smartphones. If your phone is
of Unilever Senior Chef of the Year 2017,
shooting images that look like they
shares his experiences of taking food
have a mist or haze, it’s probably
photos with a mobile phone. “I have lately
grease or dirt on the lens.
invested in a really good smartphone
things like what’s in the background
with an excellent camera (Huawei P10
and lighting, avoid shadows being
3. A white serviette can serve well as a reflector to bring in more light.
Lite with 12mp Leica camera). The
Hold a white serviette or piece of
camera app has some cool built-in filters
paper to the side of the dish, just
and I often use the lo-fi filter as it lifts
out of the shot, to bounce light onto
colours and shows immaculate, focused
the dish.
detail,” he says. “Writing down your own
4. Don’t use zoom, rather get in
40
the order of the day and being able to
Kate Els and Alessio La Ruffa both
1. Don’t underestimate your smartphone’s camera, learn how to use it and play with the settings. 2. When setting up a shot, consider
cast over your plate. 3. Use interesting plates and materials i.e. hardwood boards, one of a kind pottery. 4. Colours, colours, colours; textures;
recipes and attaching some great images
textures; textures! Remember
closer. Digital zoom on camera
of the food is a necessary skill chefs
people eat with their eyes when
phones is not the same as the zoom
need to equip themselves in today’s
looking at your photograph. A
on a camera; it often creates a poor
culinary environment. Social media
display of different textures
quality or pixelated image.
and instant accessibility has become
stimulates the mind.
FEATURE
The aim is to make the image attractive, exciting, provide context and keep it simple. 7. Plating: The choice of plate, platter or board is important. Don’t overfill the plate or heap the food. The food is the star of the show and you want to see each member of the cast. Leave space around the food and limit overlapping elements. Ensure the plate is spotlessly clean and perfect – the camera picks up every detail. Take a photograph with your cell phone first and check the image for imperfections before taking images for final use. 8. Time: You’re working against the clock – hot dishes must be photographed hot to look their best and cold dishes must look cool and crisp. Practice first to determine what you want, then take the final dish you’re going to shoot fresh out of the oven or fridge or freezer and shoot
right away. If you make the food wait while you get the angle, light and everything else right it will have altered temperature and look unappealing. 9. Angles: Play with different angles to see what works best to give the dish dimension and character. You’ll be amazed at what a small change in camera angle will do – the food can go from looking awesome to awful or vice versa. 10.Environment: Always shoot in a well-ventilated area. Food doesn’t like sitting in a hot, smelly, sticky kitchen. Vegetables and garnishes wilt, a film appears on top of ingredients and heat exchange diminishes the colour contrast of ingredients.
COMMON MISTAKES:
• You can’t fix a bad image in post production – programmes like PhotoShop are for enhancing an image not fixing it, otherwise
it will look over-corrected. • Don’t leave it to the last minute. You want to plan ahead of time and know the ingredients you want to use, so you’re not running around after the fact trying to find garnish. Think of the colour combinations you want on the plate and have the equipment and props ready to hand. And do cold food first. Be practical and think about your surroundings. • Don’t be judge and jury yourself – get other people you trust who are in the business to give you honest feedback. Don’t ask family and friends as they likely to try to spare your feelings. • Don’t expect perfection first time around. You will learn as you go along and if you stick to this plan you will have more successes than failures. • Don’t overcomplicate what is in the image – keep it simple; less is more.
BY CREATING A REALISTIC TABLE SCENE, POTENTIAL PATRONS CAN ALREADY FEEL A SENSE OF PLACE AND CONTEXT, CREATING EXPECTATION FOR THEIR MEAL © ALESSIO LA RUFFA | SHOT AT ROSTO
41
SPOTLIGHT
SWEET SUCCESS FOR SGAZO!
Young chefs showcase their winning desserts in the Hulett s Sweet Young Chef 2017 competition, held during InfoChef Africa 2017.
N
hlakanipho “Sgazo” Ngubane from 1 000 Hills Chefs School in KwaZulu-Natal is the winner of the Huletts Sweet Young Chef 2017. He competed alongside Amy Stanley, Glory Mokgobu and Danelle Naude in the competition kitchen set up at InfoChef Africa 2017. Sgazo won R7 500 plus R4 000 worth of Huletts products for his school. Sgazo is 20 years old and completing his second year at 1 000 Hills. His winning dish: Mint panna cotta with white chocolate casing, almond crumble, apple galette with zabaglione, apple jelly, chocolate branch and pomegranates. The contestants cooked under the watchful eye of the SA Chefs accredited judges as well as 1 400 young chefs and trainees who attended InfoChef. They had to prepare the desserts they had submitted in their entries to the competition. Each recipe had to use at least three Huletts products and consist of at least five components.
42
The young chefs had two and a half hours on the day to recreate their recipe and present four plates. All contestants had to be members of the SA Chefs Association to enter. This wasn’t Sgazo’s first competition and, as a naturally competitive chef, says he feels more mature after his previous experience, goal-driven and prepared. “I trained under Chef Dixi, our executive chef who is also competitive, every single day. I prepared the same dish every day. My recipe was inspired by classic flavours combined with something different, like the edible chocolate branch,” he says. Every competition chef knows that something can and will go wrong on the day and the real skill comes in handling it and turning the situation around. Sgazo’s challenge was when his panna cotta encased in chocolate dropped in the fridge. He scraped off the chocolate casing, remelted it as it was the only chocolate he had, recoated the panna cotta and put them back in the fridge. And he was still the first to plate. “I didn’t complain or panic. I remained calm and just sorted it out,” he says. Last year Sgazo won the Hot Kitchen Award at the school and says while he prefers the hot kitchen he gives his very best to whatever dishes he prepares, including pastry, as its important to be an all-rounder. As he enters industry, he says he’s looking for establishments and mentors which will help him grow as a chef.
KOEKSISTER CHAMPION 2017 The Huletts Koeksister Champion Competition 2017 held in July at Innibos in Nelspruit was won by Daleen van Schalkwyk, whose grand prize was a cheque for R100 000, presented by Paul Dickinson, general manager of marketing at Tongaat Huletts Sugar. Finalists competing in this last leg of this prestigious competition included Lenise Erasmus (white colour polling station), Ilana Uitenweerde and Diana Wessels (blue colour polling station). Each demonstrated high standards and excellent quality koeksisters. For the competition, she had to submit a photo and recipe, and as one of 15 finalists produce a dozen koeksisters to be judged by SA Chefs accredited judges plus representatives of the Vroue Landbou-Unie (South African Women’s Agricultural Union). The four top finalists went on to prepare 3 000 koeksisters each for the Innibos festival in Nelspruit, their goods marked only by the colour of their polling table, and festivalgoers voted for their favourite. Daleen was in the top three in last year’s competition and next year may enrol again to defend her title. A passionate confectioner based in Benoni, Johannesburg, she produces a range of sweet goodies for coffee shops, retailers and venues. Her love for baking was ignited by her godmother when she was a young girl and her four brothers were the first judges of her confectionery.
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OPINION
DAD, I WANT
TO BE A CHEF! Stephen Hickmore, a recruiter for the hospitality industry with decades of experience, lists the top 10 pointers for making it as a young chef.
E
ver had that moment? You stand in front of your parents preparing to break the news of how you intend to spend the rest of your life. They stare with nervous anticipation, you stammer and squirm. “Sit down, son” booms your father. “Mom, Dad I have something to tell you” your eyes alternate from a spot on the floor to the expressionless faces of your parents. “I want to be a Chef!” After having spent a fortune on your education and nurtured you through the Maths and Sciences, your parents may have had the expectation that their darling son or daughter has what it takes
to be an engineer, doctor, accountant or lawyer. Most parents have a fear of their kids taking on certain careers, like circus performer, exotic dancer, tattoo artist or chef. Your father stares at you red faced with eyes full of disappointment, as your mother rushes from the room in tears “You want to be a chef?” he gulps. But, take it from me, you have chosen one of the greatest of all professions. As a recruiter for the hospitality industry I can attest that there is a worldwide shortage of chefs. We are literally crying out for talent. Whilst your school buddies who want
GET A FEEL FOR THE WORLD. REMEMBER THAT THE PRESSURES ARE HIGH, THE PAY ISN’T SO GREAT IN THE BEGINNING, THE HOURS ARE LONG AND EMOTIONS BOUNCE OFF THE KITCHEN WALLS LIKE OBNOXIOUS FOOD CRITICS. YOU ARE GOING TO LOVE IT OR HATE IT. IF YOU LOVE IT, YOUR LIFELONG ADDICTION WILL BRING YOU ALL THE CAREER HIGHS YOU NEED.
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to be lawyers, accountants and graphic designers will struggle to find employment simply because there is a lesser demand for those skills and far too many graduates. What should a high school student do to prepare themselves for entry into the world of professional cookery and what opportunities await?
1. Ask the question “Do I really know what it is like to be a professional chef”? This will take research. Forget the TV programmes like MasterChef, My Kitchen Rules and anything with Jamie Oliver, Nigella Lawson or Gordon Ramsey starring in it. That is not what it is like at all. Talk to all kinds of chefs, ask if you can work a shift in their kitchen. Get a feel for the world. Remember that the pressures are high, the pay isn’t so great in the beginning, the hours are long and emotions bounce off the kitchen walls like obnoxious food critics. You are going to love it or hate it. If you love it, your life-long addiction will bring you all the career highs you need.
2. Work hard at school
Just because a chef career is practical and creative in nature does not mean you can bunk school. You must
OPINION
THERE ARE MANY AUTOBIOGRAPHIES WRITTEN BY ICONIC CHEFS. MARCO PIERRE WHITE, HESTON BLUMENTHAL, ANTHONY BOURDAIN AND OUR OWN BILLY GALLAGHER. DON’T JUST READ RECIPE BOOKS; GET INSIDE THE MIND OF A CHEF. THE TRIALS AND TRIBULATIONS, AND THE SUCCESSES AND FAILURES.
get a good Matric, period. That includes Maths Science and English. Firstly, you will need this to get into culinary school or hospitality management. Secondly, modern chefs are academically sound, have well-rounded educations and are hungry to develop further by studying. A top exec chef needs to know about accounting, food science, costing, purchasing, marketing as well as cooking. Restaurants, hotels and other hospitality venues are businesses and have to make money.
3. Cook at home and for your friends
When I interview successful chefs they always talk about a family member, whether it is an Ouma, a much beloved Gogo, a father or auntie who inspired them. Cook with relatives, test new recipes, invite friends over. Practice and experiment with recipes. Read recipe books and biographies of great chefs. Get healthily obsessed.
4. Practice and make lots of mistakes
Don’t be afraid to screw up every now and then. You learn from your mistakes. Invite criticism and don’t be oversensitive. We all know that
tone deaf singing contest entrant who’s mother tells him he has the voice of an angel. Don’t be the chef equivalent of that person and embrace feedback on your food.
5. Start using social media to promote yourself
Stop with the goofy selfies already! And no one really cares what your cute cat is up to. Start presenting yourself as a professional chef. Pictures of your creations, share recipes, critique restaurants you have visited. Start an online food portfolio. Learn how to take great food pictures. “Friend” professional chefs on Instagram, Facebook, and Twitter.
6. Get a part time job
There is nothing to replace experience. Get a job in your local restaurant even if it is cleaning dishes, waiting tables or assisting the chef on busy weekends. In South Africa, you can legally work if you are over the age of 15. So, get off the couch, your iPhone and Pinterest and get a job! You will earn money and money is useful!
7. Visit culinary schools
Make appointments to visit culinary schools in your
area. Find out costs and curriculum, speak to present students. What are the entry requirements? Your folks may faint at the cost, this is where your part time work will assist. So start saving.
8. Join the South African Chefs Association
Become a member of SA Chef Young Chefs Club. Attend their events and enter competitions. You will mingle with young, ambitious professional chefs who have been through the pains of starting their careers. Start associating with success.
9. Read, read, read
There are many autobiographies written by iconic chefs. Marco Pierre White, Heston Blumenthal, Anthony Bourdain and our own Billy Gallagher. Don’t just read recipe books; get inside the mind of a chef. The trials and tribulations, and the successes and failures
10.Embrace all things South African
Yes, we live in a beautiful country with incredible produce, interesting cuisine, talented chefs and a vibrant culinary community. We are known all over the world for our warm hospitality and effervescent people. Get out there and visit restaurants. We have many that regularly win international awards
You will have those moments when you question your career decision, we all do. So, persist and do not give up easily. In my experience, the floors of the industry are littered with those who gave up when they were on the brink of success. I am sure you will make your parents proud. But, more importantly you will be doing something you love.
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NEWS
SENIOR WINNER JEAN-PIERRE DE LA MOTTE © P ROYAL
SENIOR WINNER, JEAN-PIERRE DE LA MOTTE ’S DISH © P ROYAL
JUNIOR WINNER, TERROR LEKOPA’S DISH © P ROYAL
JUNIOR WINNER, TERROR LEKOPA (CENTRE) © P ROYAL
KINGS OF THE
COMPETITION KITCHEN! Jean-Pierre de la Motte from the NH Lord Charles Hotel and Terror Lekopa from Saxon Hotel, Villas & Spa are the winners of the senior and junior Unilever Chef of the Year 2017 competitions. Susan Reynard was in Durban for all the action.
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hefs in competition showcase their knowledge, skills and individuality. Competing is also a test of focus in a pressurised environment and an opportunity to grow. The annual Unilever Chef of the Year competition is a major fixture on the culinary calendar, not just for the prize money, which is substantial, but also for the recognition competing chefs, hotels and restaurants garner from industry. Taking place on 6 September at Unilever’s head office in Umhlanga, the event had a fresh, festive market
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feel for the communal tables and chefs put out excellent food on dishes of the colour and shape of their choosing. Contestants had a vast array of fresh ingredients to choose from and had to also include at least ten Unilever Food Solutions products as they prepared a threecourse menu for three people. Winner of the senior competition, holder of the title Unilever Chef of the Year 2017 and recipient of a cheque for R15 000 is Jean-Pierre de la Motte. His winning menu: • Seafood croquette, tomato and
red pepper chutney with salmon ceviche and smoked garlic aioli • Slow-braised duck with roast cauliflower purée, seasonal veg and crispy duck skin • Tiramisu mousse with chocolate sponge and almond nougatine Terror Lekopa from the Saxon Hotel, Villas & Spa won the Junior competition, with prize money of R10 000 and more importantly the opportunity to intern with South Africa’s own Michelin star chef, Jen Henrik van der Westhuizen in his restaurant in
NEWS
Nice, France. His winning menu: • Starter: Pan fried kingklip, tomato mayonnaise, carrot purée, pickled radishes, tomato sponge and lemon and herb cream • Main: Seared ostrich, parmesan croquette, cauliflower purée, roasted beetroot and red wine demi-glace • Dessert: Baked cheesecake, lemon sorbet, orange curd and passion fruit jelly The Team of Four competition was won by 12 Apostles Hotel, who prepared and served a three-course menu for eight people, including wine pairing and themed table décor. Jean-Pierre was ecstatic at his win and said he approached the competition with a clear game plan. He familiarised himself with all of Unilever Food Solutions
products and practised his menu over and over, knowing it would need final tweaking depending on the ingredients available on the day. Challenges are always limited time and space and unfamiliar equipment. Terror, 23 years old, says his executive chef at Saxon, JaneTherese Mulry, worked closely with him to prepare for the competition and he pulled many double shifts to fit in training. He has entered the competition twice before and says he keeps his cool and focuses on what they do best at Saxon every day: strict hygiene and disciplined preparation, cooking and presentation of dishes. Feedback to junior competitors from head judge, Garth Shnier, consultant chef at Time Square and a WACS accredited judge indicated well-rounded skills seen on starters
and mains, modern presentation that included linear, clean lines and dishes cooked to near perfection. As with many competitions, scores from the kitchen judge can and did change the placement of the top three and Garth says it was a very close contest. Fellow judge Jackie Cameron says that with running her own chef school she knows what industry standards are and was impressed with the quality of food sent out to the judges by the juniors. She says most of the dishes were correctly seasoned and therefore tasty, cooked well, fish was on point and creative plating styles showing international trends, with relatively few technical errors. Garth says this level of skill in young chefs was at a level far above that expected and bodes well for South Africa’s future as an international tourist destination.
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KOKORO
THE TASTE OF KOREA IN SA The Korea Agro-Fisheries and Food Trade Corporation, also known as aT, in conjunction with Kokoro, hosted a Korean Week at the SA Culinary Club at Hobart Centre in Johannesburg.
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outh Africa is not often treated to Korean cuisine and culture, but on the rare occasion, it’s a momentous occasion. Hankook, trading as Kokoro, a Korean food retailer, recently partnered with aT and Kokoro to host a Korean Week at the SA Culinary Club. This is part of their efforts to educate and create awareness around the little-known foods from the region. On display were a wide variety of Korean foods and other products, all of which are part of these companies’ dedication to serving healthy, quality food. “Good food deserves to be shared,” explains Kokoro representative and Hankook Marketing Manager, Danny Lee. Taking place from 4-7 October, the week, one of the main highlights was the opportunity to sample traditional Bulgogi – essentially Korean marinated beef. Originating in the Goguryeo period (between 37 BCE and 668 CE), the cooking method has evolved over time and varies from region to region. Another traditional food on display was Miyeok Muchim, or Seaweed Salad. Also known as wakame, it is a sweet, vinegary seaweed salad that makes
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for a refreshing and highly nutritious side dish. Dak Bulgogi, Korean Spicy Chicken, was also available for visitors to try at the event. Another facet of Korean Week was the opportunity guests had to experience Korean culture, customs, and music. Here’s a look at some of the highlights.
WEDNESDAY: STUDENT TRAINING
Young people studying in the culinary field were invited to a fullday workshop at the SA Culinary Club. Those who took part not only learned about the various Korean cuisines, but also got the opportunity to recreate Korean dishes in a hands-on experience.
THURSDAY: COOKING CLASS AND DINNER PARTY A public cooking class took place on 5 October, where attendees got to explore and create authentic Korean dishes: a starter, main and dessert. These dishes were then prepared by the Chef and served at the dinner table, culminating in hearty dinner party accompanied by traditional Korean drinks and musical entertainment.
FRIDAY: VIP AND PRESS COOKING CLASS
A highbrow cooking class took place on the Friday of Korean Week, with the class once again focusing on authentic dishes. During these classes, the Chef educated the public on the origins of the dishes and showed then where they could find these ingredients and how to create the proper flavour combinations.
SATURDAY: KOREAN FESTIVAL
The final day of Korean Week came to an end with an exciting celebration, showcasing everything Korean from food and music to Taekwondo demonstrations and traditional Korean dancers. This was presented in a cocktail-themed party atmosphere, ensuring all guests had an enjoyable experience. For more information on where to find Korean products in South Africa, contact danny@wemaco. co.za or call +27 (0) 60 935 1719.
KOKORO
MAKING BULGOGI:
A TRADITIONAL KOREAN DISH
Translated quite literally from Korean as ‘fire meat’, Bulgogi is a delicious, spicy marinated meat that originates in the Goguryeo era.
BEEF BULGOGI RECIPE Ingredients • 1 pound flank steak, thinly sliced • 1 bottle of Bulgogi Original or Sweet and Spicy Sauce • 2 1/2 tablespoons white sugar • 1/4 cup chopped green onion • 2 tablespoons minced garlic • 2 tablespoons sesame seeds • 2 tablespoons sesame oil • 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper Directions 1. Place the beef in a shallow dish. Combine soy sauce, sugar, green onion, garlic, sesame seeds, sesame oil, and ground black pepper in a small bowl. Pour over beef. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or overnight. 2. Preheat an outdoor grill for high heat, and lightly oil the grate. 3. Quickly grill beef on hot grill until slightly charred and cooked through, 1 to 2 minutes per side.
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ulgogi is marinated Korean meat, and one of the nation’s best-known traditional foods. Its cooking method has evolved over the centuries, but is typically prepared with the most tender parts of the beef, such as sirloin or tenderloin. Dak Bulgogi is the chicken version, both of which are marinated in soy sauce, sugar and Korean pear juice. Chicken thigh is best for its flavour and texture with this dish, although pork is also a great option when making Bulgogi. Because it can be daunting to try these dishes from scratch, Kokoro has made the soy-based Bulgogi Original Sauce available in South Africa. Also on the shelves is the alternative Bulgogi Sweet and Spicy, which is made with traditional Korean chilli paste. This base incldes fermented soy bean with rice and chilli powder. The marinade makes for a time-saving, convenient and tasty alternative
to doing it with raw ingredients. In addition to being used as a marinade for Bulgogi dishes, the sauce can also be used as a stir-fry sauce, or as an easy meat cooking sauce. It is ideal for marinating, grilling and adds a Korean kick to any meat or vegetarian dishes. It it made with healthy, quality ingredients and contains no MSG or trans-fat. Bulgogi sauce has a rich, flavourful blend of onion, garlic, sesame seed and the natural sweetness of fruit puree.
WHERE TO FIND BULGOGI MARINADE
Both Bulgogi sauce flavours can be found in selected shopping outlets around Johannesburg, and can also be bought online. They are also available in 10kg measures for added convenience to restaurant owners and caterers and can be ordered through Kokoro. This product is available at K-FOOD in Broadacres Superspar, Hobart Superspar, Retailcrossing Superspar, Kokoro Rivonia (Rivonia Junction Centre, cnr of Rivonia Rd and Mutual Rd, Rivonia, Sandton), Kokoro Fourways (26A, Leaping Frog Shopping Centre, William Nicole Drive and Mulbarton Rd, Fourways) Place orders online at www.koreanpremiumfood.co.za or buyers can call +27 (0)11 608 3050.
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FEATURE
OIL MANAGEMENT AND OIL SELECTION
In this article, we discuss what types of frying oil to use and the management of frying oil. Following these management guidelines within the frying space will ensure oil life extensions and consistent delivery of high quality, fried food. Part three in a five-part series, written by Wayne Thorne.
OIL MANAGEMENT
Oil Management is a daily discipline with simple and effective principles that improve fried quality, extend oil fry life, and save money. Frying oil is an expensive component of food costings within a store. Oil life needs to be monitored and managed meticulously in order to take corrective action. The standard operating procedures within a unit should be addressed on a daily basis to ensure oil life is extended to the maximum. There are six basic principles of oil management in the food service industry which will help with extension of the life and the quality of frying. 1. Heat Control Heat is the biggest enemy of frying oil. As discussed in previous editions, temperatures should never exceed 175°C. Allowing the temperature above 180°C will halve the fry life of the oil. Thermal conductivity is the ability of the fried product to adsorb energy, also called ‘heat sink’. Heat sink allows the correct temperature of the frying oil to absorb energy into the food. This process can’t be hurried by raising the temperature as the increase will just crust the outside of the fried food, leaving the inside raw.
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Analogue thermostats need to be calibrated on a monthly basis and temperature dials adjusted accordingly. When the fryer is not in use, reduce the temperature to around 135°C. This will lengthen the fry life and save on energy costs. The following guideline of temperature settings will extend the fry life by at least 50%: Starch Products
175°C
Red Proteins
160°C
Vegetables
160°C
White Proteins
160-165°C
2. Clean Equipment All soap-based products should not be used to clean any frying equipment. Frying oils are sensitive to PH levels of caustic products currently used for cleaning. The residual film left on the walls can reduce fry life by as much as 40%. These products also require the use of safety gloves while working, creating a health hazard for crew. Modern products like MagiClean are non-soap based and have no health hazards. It will also not affect the seals and rubbers on some frying equipment. Residues that build up and develop with used cooking oil further reduce the life of frying oil. Elements must be clean of all deposits – especially carbon – as they have a massive effect
on the heating capacity of the elements, resulting in more energy use and longer frying time. 3. Excessive Oil Levels Oil levels are critical in the cooking cycle; thermal convection of the heat allows hot oil to rise and the cold oil to sink to the bottom of the cooking vat. This results in temperature variances of up to 30°C between the bottom and top of the oil level within the vat. One should only use the minimum amount of oil volume for frying in the vat. This ensures regular top-ups and keeps the oil fresh for longer. New generation fryers use 16 litres of oil as their standard and not 25 litres. As a result, energy costs are also significantly reduced. Frequent top-ups are done using a fresh oil tank within the smart fryer. If excessive oil levels are reached, the correct fry temperature cannot be maintained and cooking time must then be extended. This produces a product saturated in oil, and also results in greater energy costs. The ideal level of any fryer allows at least 50-75mm of the top of the basket to stick out of the oil. The crew then cannot overfill the baskets, resulting in a quicker cooking time and increased production levels from the fryer. The final product is crispy and not oily, whilst also extending fry life and providing energy efficiency.
FEATURE
5. Covering Vats Covering vats is an important part of oil management. Frying oil decomposes in the presence of oxygen, and covering vats at closing will help slow down these effects. It is also important to use cling film on frying oil vats while staff clean extractor hoods. This ensures spray soaps used in the hoods do not settle on the oil and affect fry life. Vats should be covered after switching off the fryer. 6. Oil Rotation The oldest practice in frying oil is to rotate oil. This means using the fries oil for 2-3 days before moving it to fish, and, in some cases, passing it on to sausages. This compromises fry quality and taste, and is known as cross frying in modern terms.
Existing literature reminds us that chips will have a certain amount of chemical reactions while cooking, generally around 50 reactions at any one time. Moving of the oil from chips to fish results in those 50+ reactions added to the approximately 150 reactions with fish. This then takes the total reactions to over 200 reactions, resulting in drastically reduced fry life. Current trends are to use the oil for a single product until it is discarded. This then does not contaminate the taste of fried products and reduces the compounded effect of reactions in the oil.
OIL SELECTION
There are over 35 types of frying oils on the market. With price top of mind, operators need to understand their market needs and select a frying oil that will suit the patrons. Words like trans fat, fatty acids, saturated and unsaturated fats all are part of their selection criteria. • Dietary fat plays an important nutritional role and is a major source of energy for the labouring world – now a concern in the developed world. • Fat on weight basis provides more energy than carbohydrates or protein, in fact it is more than double at 9Kcal/g vs 4Kcal/g • Essential fatty acids are present in fats, more commonly known as omega 3 and 6. Maize, corn sunflower, cottonseed, and safflower oils are rich in Omega 3 and 6. • Soy and canola oils are high in
© MAXPIXEL
© PIXABAY.COM
4. Crumb Build-Up Crumbs are part of the cooking cycle and can affect taste and reduce oil life. These breading products fall off the product and settle at the bottom of the cooking vat. They continue to cook, breaking down with time. As they break down, the surface area of the particles increases, negatively affecting the taste of the fried product. Oil life is also compromised, with these particles helping to develop volatile compounds. Regular or daily filtering using a cone filter removes the particles, with intervals determined by the amount of breading in the oil. Remember to use a cone filter that removes particles to around 5 microns. The visual eye test on the oil must ensure no particles are visible in suspension after filtration. This results in improved taste, colour and fry life.
alpha-linoleic acid. Fat-soluble vitamins A, D, E and K use essential fatty acids as a carrier. Fats play an important role in the texture and palatability of foods, and the correct balance between the different fats should not be ignored. Fats have had a dietary influence on cardiovascular disease as well as cancer, diabetes and hypertension. Trans fats have been removed from most oils thanks to their adverse health effects. Using high-oleic oil like canola and sunflower instead of hydrogenated oil is healthier with respect to both trans and saturated fatty acids. These new generation oils have better oxidative stability (OS), which also increases fry life. Palm oil is the most commonly used oil, offering labouring workers more energy as the saturated fats levels are higher. Sunflower and canola oils are heathier options for a developed market that has nutrition on the mind. The five-minute rule by management in applying these simple and effective procedures will help improve fry quality consistently. The rising cost of vegetable oil globally will keep the pressure on pricing points, but these steps will ensure energy saving and, more importantly, extend the fry life of oil by at least 75%.
CONTACT DETAILS Wayne Thorne is Director at Don’t Waste Another Drop. For more information, please contact him on wayne@magnesol.co.za or call +27 (0)82 591 1409.
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SPOTLIGHT
FOOD FOR THOUGHT
SERVED AT SOWETO EAT IN 2017 In a month that celebrates both International Chef’s Day and World Food Day, Gauteng chef schools recently stepped out of their ‘fancy food’ comfort zone to consider the impact of their meals on customers, especially the young ones.
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t is a cool Saturday morning in Soweto. The streets are quiet but there is already a buzz of activity at the Funda Ujabule primary school. Bunches of bright green vegetables are stacked on market tables, there are chickens and rabbits in cages, tables are packed with little bags of heritage seeds and multicoloured corn. The wet earth, after the first spring rain, helps chefs to ease the pens of their gazebos into the ground between the traders while the wind plays with their sail covers. Chef schools are setting up camp to compete in a food challenge, but unlike most competitions, they won’t be replicating Michelin restaurant style food. The schools are competing to produce the best and healthiest skaftini (lunchbox). Chef schools from all over Gauteng gathered as part of the Soweto Eat In 2017, hosted by the University of Johannesburg’s iZindaba Zokudla project and Slow
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Food to raise awareness of poor child nutrition in South Africa and the challenges of the food system. “iZindaba Zokudla aims in all its activities to build linkages between social actors who would not normally meet,” says dr. Naudé Malan, convener of iZindaba Zokudla. Bringing chefs, urban small farmers and academics together, the project certainly succeeded and the day did not just produce good food, but also much food for thought.
SOUTH AFRICAN CHILDREN’S DOUBLE NUTRITION CHALLENGE
The Healthy Active Kids South Africa Report Card 2016 (HAKSA), released by Discovery Vitality in June this year, suggests that there is more than enough reason to raise awareness. One in four preschoolers is overweight, whilst one in five is stunted. But most disconcerting is the fact that 74% of children in rural
areas are underweight. Gerald Bourke, The World Food Programme’s communications officer for Southern Africa, believes that one of the greatest contributors to poor nutrition is the lack of variety. “There is insufficient attention given to the range of ingredients that we eat. That is why education and exposure at a young age is so important.” Dietician and co-author of Eat Ting, Mpho Tshukudu, agrees with Bourke. “We eat meat daily, and mostly of a poor quality. Most meal times don’t include vegetables and we eat big starch portions that are high in GI.” Replacing traditional foods like tomato gravies with industrial packet soups and prepared products, is another contributor to poor nutrition, says Tshukudu who also gave the nutritional guidelines for the chef’s skaftini challenge. And as a judge she was definitely looking for variety in the lunchboxes.
SPOTLIGHT
The consequences of poor nutrition, explained in The World Food Programme’s Share the Meal campaign, includes diminished learning and school performance, lower future earnings and a high risk of dying from infectious disease. The HAKSA 2016 report confirms the impact on academic performance as more than half of the primary school children tested below average in their motor control skills, which is linked to academic performance.
had a budget of R20 for a healthy lunchbox including a drink. “We thought the budget might be tight, but we were surprised what we could do with it,” said Rudolph van Wyk, National Head of Academics at the Chefs Training & Innovation Academy. Mark Coombe, Campus Principal for Capsicum Culinary Studio in Pretoria agrees that it is not all about price. “How you cook it is also what makes it healthy.”
INCREASING POVERTY FEEDS MALNUTRITION
Addressing one of the conferences at the Soweto Eat In 2017, prof. Vishwas Satgar, from the University of the Witwatersrand’s Department of International Relations, the Co-operative and Policy Alternative Center (COPAC) and the South African Food Sovereignty Campaign suggested that food sovereignty is the answer to South Africa’s nutrition crisis. Blaming the industrial food system for unsustainable practices that produce unhealthy food, Satgar suggests that food production should be returned to the communities. “My students’ research show that even here in Soweto there are pockets of community food production. Let’s scale it up.” Advocating active citizenry, Satgar believes that the solutions can come from grassroots. Highlighting water inequality, poor land reform and power over seed supply as crucial issues in need of addressing, Satgar suggests that an alternative food system will place the citizen and the farmer at the centre. “It is not all bad news, we have alternatives. We just need to shift away from the current industrial food system.” The alternative food system that Satgar promotes is packed out on tables outside the conference room, manned by small scale urban farmers, making a living
“Poverty is malnutrition: not just the pangs of hunger when food is short in the home – although poverty is hunger too – but the long-term, endemic condition caused by poor inadequate diet. Malnutrition hits children hardest,” writes Colin Bundy in Poverty in South Africa: Past and Present. In light of Bundy’s comment the HAKSA 2016 findings should be less surprising as the latest Poverty Trends in South Africa statistics (released by Stats SA in August) show that poverty is on the rise. “More than half of South Africans were poor in 2015, with the poverty headcount increasing to 55.5%, from a series low of 53.2% in 2011.” This means that 30.3 million South Africans were living in poverty in 2015. Although several studies found healthy food to be more expensive than unhealthy food (“‘Big Food’, the Consumer Food Environment, Health, and the Policy Response in South Africa” published in 2012 suggested that healthy food is 10 to 60% more expensive than unhealthy food), Tshukudu believes it is not always the case. “Eat local and seasonal and see beans, lentils, nuts, seeds and dairy as protein and don’t eat meat daily,” is her advice. In the skaftini challenge chefs
IS A NEW FOOD SYSTEM NEEDED TO FIGHT HUNGER?
producing “good, clean and fair” produce as Slow Food promotes. Satgar recently made headlines for advocating a complete ban on the advertising of fast foods. Although very controversial, it might address the HAKSA 2016 report’s concerning result that there are 30 million fast food consumers in South Africa. “Up 10 million in the last five years”. It is for this reason that Maria Dixon, Head of Training at Prue Leith Chefs Academy believes chefs have a greater responsibility than before to consider their customer’s nutrition. “More and more meals are eaten outside the home and that gives chefs a greater reason to consider not only the pleasure that their food brings, but also its impact on their customers.” Marlise Whelan, Chef Lecturer at Capital Hotel School, echoes this sentiment: “We have a duty to use our knowledge to educate, motivate and encourage those around us to keep it ‘green’, clean and healthy.” Satgar, Bourke and Tshukudu also share the view that healthy futures lie in indigenous foods. Chad Humby, Head of Department: Culinary Arts at The Swiss Hotel School, agrees: “We need to go back to basics. We need to go back to ingredients that were used in tough times. It is important that young chefs understand and return to ‘oukos’ (heritage cuisine)”. The winning skaftini was dished up by Prue Leith Chefs Academy. It included a sorghum (indigenous grain) tabbouleh with a skewer of beef mince and lentil meatballs and an amasi curd and herb dip. Snacks were dried pear and coconut truffles and an oat and date crunchy and if you returned the glass bottle, in which homemade rooibos and orange iced tea was served, you were literally rewarded in brownie points for recycling – a sugar and flourless chocolate and hazelnut brownie…
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SPOTLIGHT
PROFESSIONAL BODY AT WORK FOR YOU
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SPOTLIGHT
YOUNG CHEFS DO SA PROUD IN MAURITIUS
Jodi-Ann Pearton lead a team of young chefs to the African Culinary Cup in Mauritius and came back with a solid second. She chats to Susan Reynard about the challenges of international competition.
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oung chefs Amy Butler, Alexis Damianou and Ryan Chinnappen lead by JodiAnn Pearton came second in the African Culinary Cup held in Mauritius on 30 September 2017. The winning team taking home the trophy came from the UAE and consisted of the Emirates Culinary Guild Young Chef National Team. In third place was Mauritius and Namibia came fourth. Egypt had to pull out at the last minute for reasons beyond their control. Teams had five hours in which to prepare and present their set menu for 12 people. South Africa’s menu was a carefully considered mix of flavours, textures, trends and skills set (see side bar). Compulsory ingredients included marlin, venison, kiwi fruit, cassava and Christophine, among others. Team leader Jodi-Ann says she couldn’t have been prouder of the team, which produced their best work. The panel of WACS accredited judges included Uwe Micheel, president of Emirates Culinary Guild; Mooroogen Coopen, president of Mauritius Chefs Association; Stephen Billingham, president of the SA Chefs Association; and Sanet Prinsloo, president of the Namibian Chefs Association; plus two kitchen judges, one from the UAE and the other from Egypt.
Demonstrating dedication and commitment, although Amy was hospitalised the day before the competition she rallied and gave her all on the day. Jodi says. “The young chefs were focused and worked together exceptionally well as a team. They knew the dishes inside and out.” All competitions have their challenges, in this case no sous vide machine in the competition kitchen; however, the facilities were good overall and all went according to plan. They had beautiful printed books detailing their dishes and recipes made especially for the competition. Jodi-Ann is an exceptional competition chef and says of the ACC result, “I think that our menu and our dishes were possibly too complicated for the judges to understand. Feedback included comments like there were a great many advanced components on the plate.” Judging at this level is very stringent and judges have to uphold WACS standards. Jodi-Ann says there is nothing she would change and her team did the best possible food on the day, working timeously and hygienically. “They did exactly what I asked them to do as team manager, and you can’t ask people to do better than their best,” she stresses.
THE YOUNG CHEFS WERE FOCUSED AND WORKED TOGETHER EXCEPTIONALLY WELL AS A TEAM. THEY KNEW THE DISHES INSIDE AND OUT.
SOUTH AFRICA’S MENU Starter: Marlin three ways: Marlin Royale, Gravalax style Marlin and deep-fried Marlin, with pickled vegetables, potato paper and fresh mango sauce Main: Spiced sous-vide venison, crack rock, banana chutney, butter curry purée, green peas, sautéed spinach, vegetable sauce and coriander yoghurt gel Dessert: Ginger and yoghurt panna cotta, raspberry curd, lemongrass kiwi sorbet, macerated kiwi, chocolate fondants, citrus meringues, rooibos gel and crumble Special thanks to the sponsors which included Sun International, MacBrothers, Ecolab and Turn n Slice.
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SPOTLIGHT
CHEFS ON THE MOVE Changes to senior chefs at top hotels brings about a fresh perspective to the dining experience.
GARETH JORDAAN
Heading up the kitchen brigade at Tsogo Sun’s five-star Palazzo hotel at Montecasino is a feather in any chef’s cap. Gareth Jordaan, newly appointed executive chef, is putting his mark on the menu, reflecting the hotel’s stylish food and beverage offering. Since returning to South Africa in 2010 he had his eye on this post, considering it his dream job, and has worked towards achieving this goal. The Palazzo hotel has two kitchens and 30 staff members. The smaller kitchen serves as a functions kitchen and the main kitchen is divided into five departments. “My approach to food is simple, with elegance and flair, which is the cooking style I have grown to love. Guests want to recognise the food they eat and leave with a memorable experience,” he says. “I enjoy knowing that my menus speak through me as a chef: that’s the best part of being an executive chef, I get to call the shots,” he says. With a keen eye on the latest trends, he adds: “Food changes daily and so do diners’ expectations - I take the food I love and the meals I have perfected in the past and see how I can master them even further, appealing to today’s palate.” Gareth’s signature dishes include cannoli with blueberry cream cheese, Italian meringue, lemon sorbet and pistachio crumble dessert, inspired by the Italian pastry chefs at Cipriani in Abu Dhabi. His Walnut-stuffed Chicken Supreme with creamed goats’ milk cheese and puttanesca stuffing
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has been a hit on various menus. A hands-on executive chef, Gareth creates an environment in which his chefs work around him and he is involved in all preparations, ensuring that meals going out to diners represent his signature style. “Food and beverage go hand in hand. We cannot achieve anything as chefs without our food and beverage team working together as a whole. We need to have our whole team understanding every aspect of our offering,” he explains. In 2013 Gareth joined Tsogo Sun as sous chef at Southern Sun Hyde Park and was quickly promoted to executive sous chef. He moved to the Palazzo as executive sous chef, working under top chef Gerard Vingerling, before returning to Southern Sun Hyde Park as executive chef in 2016. Gareth graduated from this LIS Hotel School in Johannesburg with a diploma in Hospitality Management and Professional Cookery and began his career with an internship at the Ritz-Carlton resort in Florida in the USA, leading to his appointment as chef de partie at the property’s five-star finedining restaurant. He returned to South Africa in 2010 as sous chef at the FNB Soccer City Stadium for the FIFA World Cup, where he was responsible for catering and ensuring food delivery for up to 90 000 spectators. For the next two years, he worked as sous chef for Protea hotels, the Balalaika, and Faircity hotels, all in Johannesburg.
GARETH JORDAAN
His next move was to the Cipriani restaurant at the Yacht Club on Abu Dhabi’s Yas Island, where he mastered Italian cuisine and cooked for presidents, sheiks and celebrities on their private yachts.
FARREL HIRSCH
Soon after joining Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff Johannesburg, Farrel Hirsch had the thrill of opening revamped View and new Pre View restaurants. He has worked in Durban, Cape Town and London and brings a fresh, innovative approach to the menus at View and Pre View. His predecessor was the highly respected Dirk Gieselmann, who had served as chef de cuisine alongside owner Marc Haeberlin at the Michelin three-star Auberge de l’Ill restaurant in Illhauesern in France’s Alsace region. Farrel was born in Durban
SPOTLIGHT
and moved to the UK at the age of 13. His passion for cooking started at a young age, spurred on by his father: “He would force me to taste something I claimed I didn’t like – such as oysters, mussels or bleu beef. Curiosity always got the better of me: I soon realised there is nothing I would turn my nose up to,” he says. When he was 17, the father of his then-girlfriend – a successful chef and restaurateur – took him to dinners at iconic properties such as the Connaught Hotel and the Dorchester in London’s West End, where he realised he could turn his passion into a career. He says, “I really looked up to Marco Pierre White – it was so inspiring to see how his passion and drive made him the best in the world. To be the youngest chef to get three Michelin stars leaves me in awe.” Farrel studied professional cookery in Nottingham in the UK and was runner-up for that city’s 2008 Young Chef of the Year competition. After five years of working in the UK, he moved back to Durban and joined The Oyster Box Hotel’s Grill Room Restaurant. He has since enjoyed stints at Singita group of luxury lodges; Cellars-Hohenort Hotel’s
FARREL HIRSCH © MRSK
acclaimed Greenhouse Restaurant under Peter Tempelhoff; and at the equally prestigious The Test Kitchen under Luke DaleRoberts as sous chef. From their he moved up to Johannesburg as head chef of View, bringing this wealth of knowledge and experience to bear on the menu. “To step out of my comfort zone is one of the greatest feelings in life. I’m always excited by the idea of the unknown. Nothing beats going to a foreign country where no one speaks English and pointing at the dish being eaten at the table next to you and order that. Not to taste is not to know,” he maintains. Of his own cuisine he notes, “If you look close enough at our dishes there will always be a classic thought behind it but pushed out far enough so that it is something completely new.” Some of the dishes on the new menu at View include: seared scallops with cauliflower gremolata, green apple, raisins, black currant gel and a caper noisette; Wagyu sirloin steak served with sweetbreads, shitake mushrooms, chestnuts, anise purée, braaied asparagus and a port jus; and vanilla brûlée
espuma, honey comb, milk and lavender sorbet, honey tuile, mange blanc and honey pearls. Pre View’s menu includes dishes such as braaied oysters crumbed with nori and wakame; 48-hour fermented tofu served with legumes, herb salad, pickled mushrooms and onions; cauliflower bitterballen served with romesco, sultanas, Brussels sprouts and cauliflower leaves; and wok-fried calamari tentacles tossed in a Shaoxing and palm sugar glaze.
TAMSYN WELLS
Tamsyn Wells has worked her way up to the top at five-star African Pride 15 on Orange Hotel in Gardens, Cape Town. She joined the team in 2009 and has worked as senior sous chef and executive sous chef before her current appointment as executive chef. Tamsyn graduated with a Cordon Bleu Diploma from Silwood School of Cookery some 15 years ago, achieving distinctions in all three years of her studies. She was named Student of the Year and has won a number of other awards. She has worked at several leading hotels and restaurants in Cape Town with some of the city’s top chefs.
TAMSYN WELLS
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SPOTLIGHT
GERARD VINGERLING JOINS SANDTON SUN AS EXECUTIVE CHEF
Sandton Sun has a new top toque in the kitchen: Chef Gerard Vingerling. This iconic hotel is located on the Tsogo Sun Sandton Mile in the heart of the Sandton Business District and is home to the San Restaurant and Deck which is renowned for fine dining offset by an exceptional wine list.
T
GERARD VINGERLING - SANDTON SUN
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sogo Sun has been fortunate enough to have Gerard Vingerling in its employ since 2009. Chef Gerard, who qualified at Wits Hotel School in 1994, has amassed a wealth of experience within the hospitality industry, drawn from tenures at many upmarket hotels including 54 on Bath and most recently The Palazzo Hotel at Montecasino. He was the Executive Chef when Southern Sun Montecasino opened, and again in 2012 at 54 On Bath – tenures which he considers among his greatest achievements to date. In August of 2014, he moved to The Palazzo, where he remained the Executive Chef until July 2017 when he moved across to Sandton Sun. Chef Gerhard is now Complex Executive Chef for three of the four Tsogo Sun Sandton Mile properties: Sandton Sun, InterContinental Johannesburg Sandton Towers and Sandton Convention Centre. When asked to comment on his most recent move, the proud chef expressed his gratitude to the management of Tsogo Sun, his current and previous kitchen teams, and guests at the Chefs Table at Sandton Sun.
SPOTLIGHT
CHEF KESHAN - THE TABLEBAY
NEW EXECUTIVE SOUS CHEF
FOR THE TABLE BAY
When Keshan Rambarun started as the Executive Sous Chef at The Table Bay hotel this year, he felt like it was coming home. He hadn’t been in the magnificent Mother City in 17 years, not since he was at cooking school.
C
hef Keshan, 35, says that while he is happy to be back in Cape Town, he’s delighted to be at The Table Bay, nestled as it is in prime position in Cape Town’s Waterfront, looking out to the Atlantic from one end and onto a working harbour at the other. “Then there’s Table Mountain that casts a beautiful shadow over us at all times as we go about making our visitors happy with our five-star service, delicious food and a refined air of elegance,” Chef Keshan says. He has had a varied career, including a residency as Executive Sous and Executive Chef at AndBeyond’s flagship resorts. Chef Keshan names as one of the highlights of his career the fact that he cooked at the second prestigious
Table of Unity meal in 2001. The Chef says his love of food and cooking comes from his mother whose table was always laid to accommodate whoever wanted a hot meal. “It was my parents hospitality and mum’s love of good food that inspired me. I wanted to be able to cook as well as her, only with a wider range of cooking styles. That is why I trained to be a chef.” Being the Executive Sous Chef at the Table Bay is particularly pleasing to Chef Keshan because, he says, Cape Town has some of the country’s finest fresh produce – and locally made wines. “The Cape has a wide range of seafood to choose from, and there are also excellent foraging possibilities with the native fynbos. “Mix all that with a host of cross cultural nationalities … and you will find me
interacting with people and food, my two favourite things to do.” He says his best dish is a Harissa ostrich fillet served with a nutty Madumbi mash and a fresh passion fruit and palm date relish. Garlic, the chef says, is his best single ingredient.
HIS BEST DISH IS A HARISSA OSTRICH FILLET SERVED WITH A NUTTY MADUMBI MASH AND A FRESH PASSION FRUIT AND PALM DATE RELISH.
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REGIONAL SPOTLIGHT
ORANGE RESTAURANT © PHONIX CAPTURE
MMMM…
ZEST
MBOMBELA!
Mbombela, formerly known as Nelspruit, is a friendly and welcoming city in the heart of Mpumalanga. Kim Crowie explores their finest food fare.
K
nown for the magnificent Panorama Route and the Kruger National Park, Mpumalanga is a tourist hub with warm, friendly people to welcome one along the way. What many don’t know is that hidden in its capital is a veritable feast for food lovers. Mbombela, known also as Nelspruit, is situated in the Lowveld region and is about five hours’ drive from the southern gates to the Kruger.
MARVELLOUS RESTAURANTS AND EATERIES Ideal for those in search of opulence, luxury and high-brow eats, these restaurants offer some of the best in Mbombela, from menu to service. With a feast for the senses, they’re simply not to be missed.
Zest at Kavinga Guesthouse
Run by dynamic duo GT and Lizelle Lundie, who also opened Orange in 2007, Zest has five Diners Club Diamond Awards and three Flutes for the SA Wine List of the Year award. Their culinary style represents a rich blend of global influences, with roots embedded in French, Mediterranean and Italian traditions. These are imaginatively
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blended with the best local flavours and fresh produce to bring its mouth-watering yet unpretentious menu to life. GT offes a pleasing combination of dishes for his Chef’s menu – a firm favourite, while the popular à la carte menu has something for everyone. www.zestrestaurant.co.za
Orange Restaurant at Loerie’s Call Guesthouse
Since its inception, Orange Restaurant has grown from strength to strength, with a glamorous makeover in 2016 giving it a more contemporary feel. The venue seems to hang from one of the city’s granite cliffs, with floor to ceiling glass doors offering breath-taking views and making for a beautiful, starlit atmosphere. Serving some of the best cuisine in Mpumalanga, this award-winning restaurant has a straightforward à la carte menu and a well-stocked wine cellar with main courses ”unashamedly geared towards true meat lovers,” says Hennie Fisher of EatOut. These include eland lion, kudu fillet, châteaubriand, chocolatechilli fillet, oxtail, and lamb shank. www.eatatorange.co.za
Kuzuri
Situated in a typical African stone thatched building near the gorgeous Botanical Gardens in Mbombela, its expansive deck overlooks the Cascades Waterfall of the Crocodile River. Their menu is carefully composed with locally-sourced ingredients and offers a wide variety of nononsense options from breakfast and starters, to mains, wraps, salads and basics to choose from. In the evenings Kuzuri takes on another charm under the African skies, making it a popular option for private functions and events. www.kuzuri.co.za
Saffron Restaurant at Chez Vincent
Although currently closed as of 11 October in order to appoint new management, Saffron Restaurant still deserves a mention. This little venue is located in one of the older suburbs of Nelspruit, with Owner Steve Moore always on hand to assist. He is passionate about wine and stocks predominantly boutique style drinks in his cellars. Saffron also cures their dries their own charcuterie, while the home-
REGIONAL SPOTLIGHT
THE SEEDLING RESTAURANT
smoked salmon is worth stopping by to taste – as is their own in-house bresaola and cured, smoked and dried duck breast, all of which are available of the tapas menu. www.chezvincent. co.za/saffron-restaurant
The Seedling Restaurant at Old Joe’s Kaia
Located on a small, familyowned country haven in the Schoemanskloof Valley, The Seedling is a vegan restaurant offering “an à la carte feast with a difference”. Ideal for those in search of something out of the ordinary, the venue has a lighter footprint thanks to its healthy, alternative menu that changes seasonally. Breakfasts may include the likes of polenta flapjacks with flax meal and herbs or French toast served with cinnamon dukkah. Lunches might offer chilli bites, vegetable stir fry on flatbread, or traditional cottage pie sans the meat, while a dinner main could include Moroccan timbale with aubergine. www.oldjoes.co.za
HAPPY HOUR AND FAST FOOD JOINTS
Everyone looks for that homey place while on the road, and these venues offer delicious fast food, drinks, and a warm atmosphere to match.
Feast – The Handheld Food Company
Located in Kaapsche Hoop Road in Nelspruit, Feast offers delicious fast food over breakfast, lunch,
KUZURI
and dinner – and a hearty drinks menu to match. Opt for the mushroom chips, or indulge in their new coffee in a cone. And don’t leave without a dash of their homemade chili sauce. www.facebook.com/ Feastthehandheldfoodcompany
WHITE RIVER PURSUITS
Cicada
This upmarket restaurant is a lovely getaway and “blooming marvellous” as they say. Inspired by French charm, it is both sophisticated and relaxed, with an indulgent menu created by leading chefs in the region using fresh, local ingredients and rounded off with the most decadent desserts. www.seasonsinafrica.com
Looking for a place to vibe? Cicada has your back. This happy place offers comfort food and a daily happy hour from 4-6pm (along with some dirt cheap drinks to boot). The restaurant often has drinks and food specials, from sushi and half-price cocktails to the famous Cicada Burger. www. facebook.com/cicadanelspruit
Stoep
A coffee shop with character, the Stoep is a favourite amongst Nelspruit locals. Visitors will find local craft beer and wine, as well as cocktails and custom-made shooters on the menu. It’s an ideal place to relax, with a vibrant daily schedule of live events and parties. www.diestoep.co.za
Coyotes Shisa Nyama
For a truly local African experience, there’s nothing like a shisa nyama in the yard. Coyotes, has a distinctive party atmosphere, with friendly hosts who are willing to go the extra mile to make that meat sing! An ideal place to party after a long day of exploring. www.facebook. com/shisanyamanelspruitcoyotes
Just 20 minutes from Mbombela is the town of White River. Although decidedly smaller than its counterpart, White River is worth the visit if you’re keen to explore beyond the city limits.
Magnolia Restaurant and Café
Picasso’s Mexican Taqueria
Picasso’s offers delicious Mexican fare, as the name suggests, as well as unique cocktails. Their street food menu includes pulled pork and lamb prepared on a woodburning stove, as well as tacos, nachos, chimichangas, fajitas, burritos, quesadillas and more. It’s tranquil venue is an added bonus. www.picassoismexican.co.za
Oliver’s Restaurant and Lodge A gorgeous place surrounded by lush forests a comfortable 6km from White River, Oliver’s overlooks an 18-hole championship golf course. The restaurant has a simple menu with a range of options such as springbok and seabass for mains, with a heavenly dessert menu full of rich sweet things. www.olivers.co.za
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EVENTS TO DIARISE
NOVEMBER WHISKY LIVE 8 – 10 Johannesburg, South Africa INTERFOOD & DRINK 8 – 11 Sofia, Bulgaria WORLD OF MILK 8 – 11 Sofia, Bulgaria THE CAKE & BAKE SHOW 9 – 12 Manchester, United Kingdom PLAZA CULINARIA 10 – 12 Freiburg, Germany COSMOFOOD 11 – 14 Vicenza, Italy PRODEXPO 14 – 17 Minsk, Belarus PACKAGING INNOVATIONS 15 – 16 Madrid, Spain EAT ‘N STYLE 17 – 19 Hamburg, Germany THE TOPS WINE SHOW 20 – 2 December Nelspruit, South Africa
TANZANIA TRADE SHOW 24 – 26 Dar es Salaam FOOD INGREDIENTS EUROPE 28 – 30 Frankfurt/Main, Germany FOOD EAST AFRICA 29 – 1 December Nairobi, Kenya FOOD AND LIFE EXPO 29 – 3 December Munich, Germany COFFEE & CHOCOLATE EXPO CAPE TOWN 24 – 25 Cape Town, South Africa WINE SHOW NELSPRUIT 30 – 2 December Nelspruit, South Africa BBC GOOD FOOD SHOW 30 – 3 December Birmingham, United Kingdom WORLD FOOD EXPO KOREA 30 – 3 December Goyang-Si, South Korea
DECEMBER GRAND TASTING 1–2 Paris, France SPIRIT SHOW 1–2 London, United Kingdom SALON DES VINES ET DE LA GASTRONOMIE 1–3 Le Mans, France HOT CHOCOLATE EXPO 3 Scottsdale, USA MIG GELATO EXHIBITION 3–6 Longarone, Italy INTERNATIONAL COFFEE AND CHOCOLATE EXHIBITION 3–6 Riyadh, Saudi Arabia KUWAIT INTERNATIONAL AGRO FOOD EXPO 4–5 Mishref, Kuwait NLS FOOD QUALITY SYMPOSIUM 4- 6 Indian Wells, USA AGROFOOD WEST AFRICA 5–7 Accra, Ghana FOOD AND HOSPITALITY WEST AFRICA 5–7 Accra, Ghana THE ALMOND CONFERENCE 5–7 Sacramento, USA SAFE FOOD EXPO 7–8 New Delhi, India
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EVENTS TO DIARISE
MOROCCO FOOD EXPO 8 – 10 Casablanca, Morocco ADDIS AGRO FOOD EXHIBITION 8 – 11 Addis Ababa, Ethiopia MIDDLE EAST ORGANIC AND NATURAL PRODUCTS EXPO 11 – 13 Dubai, UAE SIAL MIDDLE EAST 12 – 14 Abu Dhabi, UAE FOOD INGREDIENTS ASIA 12 – 14 Guangzhou, China DUBAI INTERNATIONAL COFFEE AND TEA FESTIVAL 14 – 16 Dubai, UAE PACK AFRICA 14 – 16 Cairo, Egypt FOODTECH MYANMAR 15 – 18 Yangon, Myanmar WORLD FOOD EXPO 20 – 23 Pasay, Phillipines OIL ASIA EXPO 27 – 29 Beijing, China
JANUARY FOOD PROCESSING CONCLAVE 4–6 Vijayawada, India BELLAVITA EXPO 8 – 10 Amsterdam, The Netherlands THE FRANCHISE SHOW 13 – 14 Montreal, Canada SPECIALTY FOOD EXPO AND CONFERENCE 13 – 14 Vancouver, Canada IDAHO POTATO CONFERENCE 17 – 18 Pocatello, USA DAIRY STRONG CONFERENCE 17 – 18 Madison, USA FOOD AND GROCERY FORUM 17 – 19 Mumbai, India
GASTRO TEK 22 – 23 Kalkar, Germany AGFOPEX NIGERIA 22 – 24 Kano, Nigeria IOWA PORK CONGRESS AND EXHIBITION 24 – 25 Des Moines, USA BEAUTY AND HEALTH FOOD EXPO 24 – 26 Chiba, Japan FOODTECH KERALA 25 – 27 Kochi, India GLOBAL ORGANIC PRODUCE EXPO 25 – 27 Hollywood, USA DELHEIM HARVEST FESTIVAL 28 – 29 Stellenbosch, South Africa
ASIAN MEAT EXPO 17 – 19 Bangkok, Thailand GOLD COAST FOOD AND WINE EXPO 19 – 21 Gold Coast, Australia JAPAN FISHING SHOW 19 – 21 Yokohama, Japan TEA FESTIVAL INDIA 20 – 21 Bengaluru, India SCOTLANDS SPECIALITY FOOD SHOW 21 – 23 Glasgow, UK
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© WWW.UNSPLASH.COM, PHOTOGRAPHER: AAINA SHARMA
UPPERCRUST FOOD AND WINE EXHIBITION 8 – 10 Mumbai, India
THE LAST WORD
BLOODY MARVELLOUS BREAKFAST
Q
uiet breakfasts on a Sunday morning at a comfortable little venue were a treat until the noisy Breakfast Nasties took over en masse. What transforms normally placid, easy going folk into monsters as they go out for a late breakfast? The entire week they’re happy to fix themselves anything, but when they get the chance to dictate to someone what they want for breakfast, they’re tyrants. Eggs firm but not hard, turned over but not broken, soft but not slimy, bacon fatty but not greasy, crisp but not dry, coloured but not brown, omelettes with six different fillings, three types of toast, more coffee, more orange juice, more butter, more jam, bigger muffins, stickier sticky buns, oh, and they want it NOW! Is there some unwritten rule that dictates that everyone at the table must order something different like a bizarre parlour game? And if by chance they order the same thing, then there must be some other differentiation. “I’ll have the bacon, sausage, egg and tomato also but make my egg sunny-side down and give me two slices of raw tomato instead of the grilled tomato and I’d also like some grated cheese on the side.” Why are we so particular about a meal like breakfast? I can’t imagine the same person going into a sushi restaurant and ordering “I’ll have the tuna one but with mayo instead of wasabi, don’t put seaweed around the nori make, use tomato skin instead and I don’t like the sashimi raw, can you just stick it under the grill for two minutes?” I know what the sushi chef’s reaction would be. My
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reaction is to avoid the cabaret and seek indulgence chez moi, which brings me to today’s breakfast, the best bloody breakfast I’ve had for ages... but just what the hell was it? I know what the ingredients were of course. Nothing was squished in turbo blenders, reduced to purees and pastes, nothing was teased into a foam or emulsion, it was good old-fashioned peasant food, the type of food you seldom come across these days. The type of food where you can not only see but also recognise every single component of the dish. But what the hell was it? It started like all great dishes, a quick whirl through the fridge and everything slightly suspicious laid out on the kitchen table for an identity parade. There were lots to choose from: those little red tomatoes which could have been cherry tomatoes, cocktail tomatoes, baby plum tomatoes or rosa tomatoes - it’s difficult to tell when you your wife has thrown away the packaging. Then some old friends: red onions, garlic, leeks, half a red pepper, a courgette, three or four decent sized mushrooms and a large baked potato left over from a previous culinary adventure. Everything was sautéed off in one of those incredible non-stick pans invented, I believe, for the astronauts for their lunar fry-ups (something to do with easy release from the pan so that the eggs could float dramatically around the space module and make for good TV, but that could be an urban myth). Finally, a few eggs, briefly whisked, were added with a little freshly
BRIAN MCCUNE
ground black pepper and some Maldon salt (it seemed to be one of those occasions which demanded it). When everything was set, I slipped it skillfully onto a plate and tucked in — it was bloody marvellous — but just what the hell was it ? I’m not sure if it was a Spanish omelette or a frittata or even if a Spanish omelette and a frittata are one and the same thing or even close cousins. Some people say a Spanish omelette is a tortilla but if it is then somebody should tell the Mexicans ‘cause they’re much more difficult to fold than flat breads. Other people say a frittata is only a posh Spanish omelette with ham and cheese added. Who knows? Whatever the hell it was, it was bloody marvellous! Brian owns the Food Biz, a Cape Town based food consultancy, and instead of working spends his time telling other people how to work. Contact him at www.thefood.biz, foodwizard@ iafrica.com, 082 492 9239
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