Cook Like a Chef With Jonathan Waxman

A native Californian and one-time professional trombonist, Jonathan Waxman studied the culinary arts in Paris before moving back to the States and developing his own version of California cuisine. Today, he’s the chef/owner of two restaurants: Barbuto in Manhattan’s West Village and the now-iconic Jams at 1 Hotel Central Park. A James Beard Awardwinning chef, Waxman has appeared on Top Chef Masters, Top Chef, Recipe for Deception and MasterChef. He has authored three cookbooks: The Barbuto Cookbook, A Great American Cook and Italian, My Way.

@chefjwaxman

What inspired you to pursue culinary arts?

I was working as a Ferrari salesman and the wife of the owner convinced me to take a cooking class. The rest is history. Quite a journey!

You’ve been credited with being a pioneer of California cuisine.

How would you describe it?

It’s truly a state of mind—no set rules, just a passion for simple dishes cooked with integrity, plus ingredients that follow the seasons. The light and the energy of California informs the food, and the topography dictates the seasons. From a culinary point of view, references to French, Italian, Japanese, Mexican and Chinese foods all help to create a jumbled, happy California mess in a wonderful, sunny fashion.

How does your take on California cuisine differ from other chefs who may cook it?

I love simplicity and rusticity, so I try to synthesize my dishes so that there are no extraneous notes. And I try to make a certain harmony with the best and freshest ingredients. You can tell that my time as a trombonist has carried through.

What are some foods or ingredients that anyone cooking California cuisine should have in their kitchen?

Sea salt, good butter, amazing olive oil, great spices, fresh herbs, anchovy, garlic and great onions. You can make a lot with these simple ingredients.

Do you have a favorite Christmas gift you’ve received?

My wife always buys me cashmere sweaters, and I am wearing one as I type!

How do you celebrate the holidays with your family? Do you have any special holiday meals or traditions?

We love Thanksgiving. I make a pheasant, capon and duck ballotine, stuffed with chorizo. I love all root vegetables and I adore sweet potatoes, broccoli and potatoes four ways.

What’s your fondest holiday memory?

We spend every Christmas Day with our downstairs neighbors in our apartment building in New York. It’s so low-key and special—it makes the day glow.

Why does this moment resonate with you?

I thank my stars for blessing me with a wonderful family. They illuminate my life.

Do you have any kitchen hacks or special techniques and tricks you can share with us?

To make a special pasta, gently brown rigatoni in butter and olive oil. When the pasta is golden all over, add cold water. The water will quickly come to boil, and the pasta will retain a special “toasty” quality. Another fun technique: When making pesto, if you use an immersion blender, add a tablespoon of crushed ice. The pesto will remain bright green for days.

What was the inspiration for your

Pork Chops & Mostarda recipe?

Mostarda is the wonderful condiment that is both tangy and spicy. It marries well with all meats, more specifically with pork. Pork chops need a little boost and the mostarda is truly a fantastic addition to make the dish pop.

Stay tuned on our social media channels for a chance to win a signed copy of Jonathan’s book.

2 HOURS + 20 MINUTES, UP TO 3 HOURS FOR BRINING | SERVES 4

PORK CHOPS

1 c brown sugar 1/2 c + 1/4 tsp fine sea salt, divided 2 tbsp apple cider vinegar 4 bay leaves 4 (12 oz) pork chops 3 tbsp olive oil, divided 4 Ginger Gold apples, cored and cut in half 1 head mizuna or watercress, washed and torn up 1/2 c mostarda (recipe below)

Brine and Cook Pork Chops:

1. In a 4-quart pot, combine the brown sugar, salt, vinegar, bay leaves and 1 quart of water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low and cook for 1 hour. Let cool completely. 2. Add the pork chops to the brine and brine for at least 1 hour, up to 3 hours max. 3. When ready to cook, remove the pork chops, pat dry and coat with 2 tbsp of olive oil. 4. Heat a charcoal or gas grill or an indoor grooved grill to medium heat. 5. Coat the apples with the remaining 1 tbsp of olive oil and grill on the cut side for 5 minutes. Turn and grill another 5 to 10 minutes. They should be firm, not mushy. 6. Grill the chops 6 to 8 minutes per side for medium. 7. Toss the greens with ¼ tsp salt and a drizzle of olive oil. 8. Dice the grilled apple halves and mix the diced apples with the mostarda. Slice the chops, place on a platter and serve with the apple mixture spread on top and a sprinkle of greens.

MOSTARDA

1 tbsp butter 1/2 shallot, minced 1 clove garlic, peeled and sliced 1/2 c white wine 2 tbsp sherry 1/4 c mustard seeds 1/8 tsp cayenne pepper 1/2 c sugar 3 apples, peeled, cored and diced 1/2 c fresh or frozen cranberries Cook the Sauce: In a saucepan, add the butter, shallot and garlic and cook gently over low heat for 5 minutes. Add the wine, sherry and mustard seeds. Simmer the sauce for 10 minutes. Add the cayenne and sugar and cook another 5 minutes. Add the apples and cranberries and cook, covered, for 40 minutes, until the mixture thickens to a cranberry sauce-like consistency.