GOLDEN PLATES
Sunshine and geology add some zip to B.C. wines
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by Charlie Smith
everal years ago, veteran winemaker Michael Bartier of Bartier Bros. Vineyard and Winery explained why the Okanagan region produced such exceptional vintages. He pointed to such factors as latitude and geology, among others. The Okanagan enjoys almost two more hours of sunlight per day during the growing season than is available in any other wine-growing region in the world. In addition, Bartier stated, the area around Oliver has relatively young soils as a result of the retreat of the glaciers and the melting of an ice dam about 10,000 years ago. “We’re farming on quartz. We’re farming on gneiss. We’re farming on granite. We’re farming on limestone. We have this incredible suite of soils,” Bartier said. These minerals enhance the complexity of wines in the so-called Golden Mile Bench subregion of the Okanagan Valley. The Okanagan wine industry is also benefiting from some top-flight scientific research at UBC Okanagan. Its wine and grapes “cluster” of researchers, headed by biochemistry and molecular-biology assistant professor Wesley Zandberg, is proving biochemical and genetic analyses
Kalala Organic Winery is one stop along the Westside Wine Trail. Photo by Joanna Bell.
to support the wine industry’s efforts to adapt to climate change and respond to changing consumer preferences. There was once a time when people in B.C. feared for the future of the province’s wine industry as free-trade talks were underway between the U.S. and Canada in the 1980s. That was back when many British Columbians were buying their plonk by the box. Nowadays, the Okanagan Valley is a premier wine-growing region with 86 percent of the province’s vineyard acreage, according to the Wine Growers of British Columbia. The
association points out that the industry contributes $2.8 billion to the B.C. economy and there are more than 370 licensed wineries in nine different growing regions. Basically, it’s become a huge industry with some sprawling estates that rival those in California. Busloads of tourists are among the more than one million people who visit B.C. wineries every year. But there’s also something endearing about this sector. Even if you show up in grubby camping gear, you’re likely to receive just as warm a welcome as those who arrive with their Gucci bags. Just tell them what you like, whether it’s a Syrah or Pinot Noir, and obliging staff will do their best to accommodate your wishes. Here’s a tip. If you’re planning a winetourism trip to the Okanagan, check out #BCWineChat on Twitter every Wednesday night from 8 to 9 p.m. Wine aficionados from across the province participate in a group
READERS’ f CHOICES B.C. WINE/WINERY (WHITE)
RESTAURANT WINE SELECTION
1. Poplar Grove Winery 425 Middle Bench Road North, Penticton 2. Burrowing Owl Estate Winery (tie) 500 Burrowing Owl Place, Oliver 2. CheckMate Artisanal Winery (tie) 4799 Wild Rose Street, Oliver 3. La Frenz Winery (tie) 740 Naramata Road, Penticton 3. Quails’ Gate (tie) 3303 Boucherie Road, West Kelowna
1. Tap & Barrel Various locations 2. The Vancouver Fish Company Restaurant & Bar 1517 Anderson Street, Granville Island 3. Chambar Restaurant 568 Beatty Street
B.C. WINE/WINERY (RED)
For Voting Us... #1 BC Winery for White Wine
1. Burrowing Owl Estate Winery 500 Burrowing Owl Place, Oliver 2. Sandhill Wines 1125 Richter Street, Kelowna 3. Mission Hill Family Estate (tie) 1730 Mission Hill Road, West Kelowna 3. Road 13 Vineyards (tie) 799 Ponderosa Road, Oliver
WINE STORE 1. Liberty Wine Merchants Various locations 2. Everything Wine (tie) Various locations 2. Legacy Liquor Store (tie) 1633 Manitoba Street 3. Marquis Wine Cellars 1034 Davie Street
HOTEL LOUNGE
www.poplargrove.ca 28
THE GEORGIA STR AIGHT
MAY 26 – JUNE 2 / 2022
conversation using that hashtag. There, you’ll learn about everything from the newest high-end winery to limited-production wines worth sampling. Here’s another tip. You might want to look at the wineries listed below in our annual Golden Plates survey of readers. The family-owned Poplar Grove, one of the original five wineries on the Naramata Bench, received the most votes this year as the best B.C. winery for white wines. It was followed by Burrowing Owl and CheckMate Artisanal Winery in Oliver, which tied for second place. La Frenz in Penticton and Quails’ Gate in West Kelowna tied for third in this category. As far as reds go, Burrowing Owl came out on top, followed by Sandhill Wines in Kelowna. Tied for third were Mission Hill in West Kelowna and Road 13 in Oliver. We’ll drink to that! g
1. The Lobby Lounge at the Fairmont Pacific Rim 1038 Canada Place 2. UVA Wine & Cocktail Bar 900 Seymour Street 3. Bacchus Restaurant & Lounge 845 Hornby Street
WINE BAR 1. UVA Wine & Cocktail Bar 900 Seymour Street 2. Bombay Kitchen + Bar Various locations 3. Juice Bar 54 Alexander Street
INDEPENDENT BAR LOUNGE 1. The Keefer Bar 135 Keefer Street 2. Bombay Kitchen + Bar Various locations 3. UVA Wine & Cocktail Bar 900 Seymour Street
RESTAURANT FOR A STIFF DRINK 1. Pourhouse 162 Water Street 2. Bombay Kitchen + Bar Various locations 3. The Vancouver Fish Company Restaurant & Bar 1517 Anderson Street, Granville Island
TO CURE A HANGOVER 1. Tap & Barrel Various locations 2. McDonald’s, Various locations 3. Denny’s Restaurant Various locations