FOOD

FOOD Four Chinese restaurants named Game Changers

by Craig Takeuchi

Although all food and drink establishments faced challenges during pandemic restrictions and lockdowns, Asian eateries had to contend with operating at a time when anti-Asian sentiment—and, in particular, Sinophobia—was at an all-time high for many decades in Vancouver.

Last year, reported anti-Asian hate crimes in Vancouver shot up by 717 percent over the previous year. This led Bloomberg to describe Vancouver as the anti-Asian hate-crime capital of North America.

Accordingly, patrons who supported Asian restaurants during this time period were not only supporting those specific businesses but also conveyed acceptance of Asian Canadian people and culture.

A local awards organization is shining a light on some Chinese culinary establishments that forged ahead with opening up during this difficult time and made an impression with a stellar level of food and hospitality. Vancouver’s Chinese Restaurant Awards (CRA) have named four establishments as “game changers” for culinary excellence and perseverance during the pandemic.

These special awards were launched not only as the CRA’s mid-year accolades to honour newcomers braving the challenges of launching during the pandemic, but also to kick off the season for the 2021 critics’ choice awards.

The organization’s critics’-choice awards judging chair, Lee Man, chose these restaurants as “the fiercest contenders in Vancouver’s highly competitive culinary scene”, and “because they each have something unique to say”, according to a news release. One of the winners is Chef’s Choice Chinese Cuisine (955 West Broadway), which opened this past January. It was noted as serving a menu of classic dishes from Hong Kong and Guangdong, such as Gold Coin Roasted Chicken and Steamed Thousand Layer Cake, which includes custard, candied winter-melon bits, and salted duck egg yolk.

Another winner, iDen and Quan Ju De Beijing Duck House (2808 Cambie Street), opened its doors in February 2020 and is already “regarded by many as the absolute standard bearer of Peking Duck”.

The third establishment, Old Bird (3950 Main Street), launched in January 2020 with a menu featuring “an easygoing late-night flavour profile, but is still confidently focused and executed” and reflects “a distinctly Vancouver point of view while not losing its sense of self”.

The fourth eatery is Uncle’s Snack Shop (8180 Westminster Highway, Richmond), which opened in March. According to the Chinese Restaurant Awards, it provides “just the shot of exuberant joyfulness we need” and a “sense of youthful playfulness and energy…underscored with sharp cooking, well thought-out flavours, and a deep knowledge of traditional Asian techniques”.

The 2021 critics’ choice signature dish awards will be announced on November 16. Other members of the 2021 judging panel are broadcaster William Ho Wood Kuen and food writers Brendon Mathews and Alexandra Gill. g

Chef’s Choice Chinese Cuisine (left), with Hong Kong and Guangdong dishes, and Old Bird, with a laid-back menu, were named Game Changers by Vancouver’s Chinese Restaurant Awards.