FOOD

Authentic tastes of Kerala on the menu in Surrey by Charlie Smith W hen James Barber used to write food reviews for the Georgia Straight in the 1980s and 1990s, he enjoyed other parts of South India, Rajasekharan mentioned the extensive use of coconut. In addition, Keralans tend to eat a lot of seafood, like residents of many coastal regions. visiting small, out-of-the-way family resRice is the main staple, and it’s not unusual taurants to educate readers about food for people from this part of India to consume from other countries. this grain three times a day. Rice paddies are

In that spirit, I recently travelled to North a common sight in the state, which is why Surrey to check out the cuisine of Kerala, a naan and roti aren’t as common in Keralan state on the southwestern Malabar Coast of eateries as in North Indian establishments. India. Kerala is home to Indian elephants and In 2009, Rajasekharan graduated with plenty of coconut trees. But it’s perhaps best an advanced diploma in culinary arts from known to Vancouverites as the childhood the Art Institute of Vancouver before going home of Indian writer Arundhati Roy. Her on to work at Fairmont hotels. He opened Man Booker Prize–winning e God of Small Kerala Kitchen almost three years ago. ings was set in a shing village in the state. He hails from Kerala’s capital, iruvan

In fact, sh curry is the heart and soul anthapuram, which is near the southern tip of Kerala. It is to Kerala what beef bourof India. Long ruled by Marxists, Kerala’s guignon is to France. So when I arrived at Kerala Kitchen (103–9386 120 Street), a Kerala Kitchen chef-owner Sujith Rajasekharan replicates the flavours of his birthplace in South India with his stunningly spicy fish curry (left) and succulent Chicken 65. Photos by Charlie Smith. literacy rate stood at 96.2 percent in 2018, and the state is famous for attracting medvery casual eatery in a strip mall, it would sh curry was a avour bomb, exploding cooling beverage in advance. ical tourists because of its well-regarded have been sacrilegious not to order it. with a combination of tangy, super-hot, and In comparison, the delicious Chicken 65 health-care system. e chef-owner, Sujith Rajasekharan, told slightly sweet sensations. And it’s unlike dish, which I also ordered, was less spicy, is part of India is also notable for its the Straight that he’s created his own spicy rethe sh curry found in any local Malaysian, as was the dry-fried Beef Ularthiyathu. murals. For many centuries, artists have cipe that includes turmeric, chili powder, asaai, or Indian restaurants in this region. “When people come here, they feel been depicting Hindu mythology in this way, foetida, ginger, garlic, fenugreek seeds, curry In fact, this sh curry ranks up there like they’re having something similar to mixing various pigments to create vibrant leaves, tomato, coconut milk, and water. among the hottest dishes I’ve ever eaten. home,” Rajasekharan said. images. Reecting that tradition, there’s one e sh was incredibly tender and the sauce was super spicy. In fact, this Kerala at’s the South Indian way—and it’s advisable to order a Coca-Cola or some other When asked about the dierence between the cuisine of Kerala and food from of these large and colourful murals on dis play in Rajasekharan’s restaurant. g