Scarlett David-Gray

Scarlett is a womenswear designer who specialises in subversive drape and couture hand-sewing techniques. Their graduate collection, “Kallipyga” (meaning beautiful buttocks in Greek), began with a desire to explore the erotic potential of the body, and soon spiraled into a fervent obsession with the perverse role flesh plays in the relationship between designer, model and garment. Much of the design decisions have been influenced by the work of artist Hans Bellmer, in particular his series Les Jeux de la Poupée (The Games of the Doll) and his personal pornographic illustrations, alongside the designers ecclesiastical experiences in Greek Orthodox churches during pilgrimages to their family in Athens.

The outcome is a collection that is both delicate and demanding. Sharp suiting silhouettes are malformed by their fabric, while heavy, hand-stitched drape drags at the waists of dresses and skirts. There is a notable focus on revealing what is often concealed, with particular reverence given to the stomach and back, and a dedication to objectifying that which is often not allowed to inhabit the traditional erotic sphere.

With enduring thanks to Mathilda O’Neill, Lemon Fraser, Mum and Dad, Sarah McCormack, and Furmaan Ahmed, for donations of your love, patience, knowledge, and (most importantly)… fabric. This collection would not be possible without all of you.