The Glossary - Jubilee Edition 2022

Th THE LO NDON ST YL E GUID E

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season’s most uplifting finds 9 ARTS & CULTURE London’s don’t-miss exhibitions 16 BEHIND THE LENS A candid snapshot of photographer Campbell Addy’s life and work 18 CREATIVE FORCE Deputy Mayor Justine Simons on the future of the arts in London 24 HAPPY & GLORIOUS Alexandra Shulman reflects on 70 years of portraits of Her Majesty Style 33 FASHION NOTES Style updates and the feel-good buys onour radar 36 DOPAMINE DRESSING The designers adding colour into your wardrobe 42 WELL HEELED Step into Summer with our footwear edit 44 BACK TO THE FUTURE The statement bags embracing nostalgia for the season ahead Watches & Jewellery 46 WATCH & JEWELLERY NOTES The glittering launches and most covetable pieces 48 DIAMONDS ARE FOREVER Meet the Skydiamond - the world’s first zero-impact diamond 52 SPRING WATCH This season’s timepieces come in the softest of hues ISSUE SEVENTEEN COVERQUEENPHOTOGRAPHY:ELIZABETHII BY ANTHONY BUCKLEY ANTHONY BUCKLEY / CAMERA PRESS, LONDON. IMAGE COURTESY OF THE NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY, LONDON

Arts & Culture

The

CONTENTS 1644 92 76 Beauty & Wellness 56 BEAUTY NOTES The new cult products and trends to try 58 CROWNING GLORY Alessandra Steinherr’s easy steps for healthy-looking hair 63 SPRING’S FRESH FACE The failsafe formulas to support your skin barrier 64 PERFECT SCENTS The fragrance launches to know - and spritz - now Food & Drink 70 TASTING NOTES Where to eat and what to drink: the latest from London’s dining scene 72 TABLE TALK Hilary Armstrong reviews the buzziest restaurant openings in the capital 76 HAPPY HOUR Drink in London’s glittering cocktail scene at these stylish new bars Travel 80 TRAVEL NOTES Must-visit hotels and experiences across the globe 82 JOIE DE VIVRE The newest Parisian hotels for the chicest weekend away Home & Interiors 90 DESIGN NOTES Interior design ideas and inspiration 92 WILLOW’S WORLD Florist Willow Crossley talks style, sustainability and finding sanctuary in nature Last Word 96 MY LONDON GLOSSARY Mahalia’s little black book of the capital 55 THE JUBILEE EDITION 2022

As well as being the longest-serving British monarch in history, Her Majesty is also amongst the most photographed women in the world. In this issue, Alexandra Shulman reﬂects on the role of royal portraiture and how the world’s leading photographers and artists have so evocatively and elegantly depicted The Queen’s life and reign.

Charlotte Adsett, Editorial Director

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Charlotte Adsett DODO MESSIKAGIVENCHYMoveRomane

Art has forever captured historical moments and deﬁned eras, something that Justine Simons is all too aware of. As Deputy Mayor for Culture and the Creative Industries, Justine has overseen a myriad of high-proﬁle projects in London, from the Fourth Plinth to the ongoing East Bank project in Stratford. She talks to us about the future of the arts and the city’s cultural renaissance.

Editor’s Letter

THE GLOSSARY TEAM EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: charlotte@theglossarymagazine.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR: Harriet Cooper harriet@theglossarymagazine.com CONTRIBUTING EDITOR: Luciana Bellini luciana@theglossarymagazine.com BEAUTY DIRECTOR: Alessandra Steinherr CONTRIBUTING FASHION EDITOR: Flora Macdonald Johnston WATCH & JEWELLERY EDITOR: Ming Liu ming@theglossarymagazine.com RESTAURANT EDITOR: Hilary Armstrong INTERIORS EDITOR: Amy Moorea Wong SUB EDITOR: Hannah Jones CONTRIBUTORS: Jess Kelham-Hohler, Emine Saner, Alexandra Shulman ART DIRECTOR & MANAGING DIRECTOR: Ray Searle ray@theglossarymagazine.com PRODUCTION MANAGER: George Willis production@theglossarymagazine.com FINANCE MANAGER: Amanda Clayton accounts@theglossarymagazine.com SUBSCRIPTIONS: subscriptions@theglossarymagazine.com EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES: editorial@theglossarymagazine.com Published by Neighbourhood Media Limited, 3rd Floor, 86-90 Paul Street, London EC2A 4NE © 2021 Neighbourhood Media Limited. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, whether in whole or in part, without written permission. The publishers and editors are not responsible for unsolicited material and it will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication subject to The Glossary magazine’s right to edit. LEFT TO RIGHT: BAR OR Lolitta Mini Dress, £650; LEDA MADERA Meryl Crystal Earrings, £515 GIVENCHY Cat-Eye Sunglasses, £180; BOTTEGA VENETA Metallic Belt, £295 Move Romane Pavé Diamond Ring, £5,870; JENNIFER BEHR Medici Headband, £430 MIU MIU Rhinestone Sandals, £920; GUCCI Jackie Bag, £1,940 E d i t o r s’pkse PLATINUM I

n this, her Platinum Jubilee year, we look to the Queen. London - and beyond - is set to come alive this summer with parties and pageantry as we celebrate a remarkable seven decades since the young Princess Elizabeth ascended to the throne on 6 February 1952

As we’ve put this issue together, our thoughts have never been far from Ukraine. As the conﬂict continues and a humanitarian crisis unfolds on a devastating scale, Choose Love - the pioneering charity close to our heart - continues to provide vital aid and services to those still in and ﬂeeing the country. To learn more about their work, visit chooselove.org

We hope you enjoy the issue.

These changeable times call for positivity and so we look to the newly-launched Skydiamond - the world’s only sustainable diamond that is mined from the sky, not the earth - which sees model and activist Lily Cole join forces with Rankin to celebrate this modern alchemy. Our wardrobes also turn to the bright side this season, as Flora Macdonald Johnston focuses on how dopamine dressing can instil joy and lift our mood. Wearing eye-catching, block colours is what the Queen has been doing for years (more for practicality than selfgratiﬁcation - at 5ft 3inches, she needs to stand out from the crowd).

EDITORIALproduction@theglossarymagazine.comENQUIRIES:editorial@theglossarymagazine.com

Club kid-meets-glam rock across Harris Reed’s latest collection - all of which has been made by hand, using upcycled materials. harrisreed.com

Plexi Sandal, £950

A multi-hued folding fan to keep you cool - and turn heads - all summer long. koibird.com

The

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Vilhelm Parfumerie London Funk, 100ml, £120

LIP SERVICE

This 90 per cent natural origin formula comes in 40 new shades and the four limited-edition couture cases are reﬁllable. dior.com

Take a trip to '70s London with this heady blend of juniper, blackcurrant bud and vetiver. vilhelmparfumerie.com

COOL COLOURS

Charlie Mackesy Love to Ukraine T-shirt, £20

ALL HEART

TWINKLE TOES

Dior Addict Lipstick, £33

Edit

Feel uplifted with this season’s most joyful ﬁ nds

Acquazurra Tequila

Pubumesu Rainbow Fan, £115

SUNSHINE HAPPY

Dazzling crystals, a sky-high heel… these shoes belong on the danceﬂoor. aquazzura.com

Support Choose Love with this charity tee. charliemackesystore.com

Earl of East Flower Power Glass Incense Holder, £85

Jewels for Ukraine is a fundraising initiative that will see a new designer jewellery

Messika x Smiley XXL Lucky Move Necklace

Harlie Brown Studio, Le Crabe Plate, £35

Incense earlofeast.com

summer bag collection, all available at the Grecian brand’s Chiltern Street

inspiration from longtime muse

ALL SMILES

How better to mark the emoticon’s 50th anniversary than with Messika’s yellow and white diamond pavé necklace? messika.com

This mouth-blown stained glass incense holder will add a '60s twist to any home.

WHAT A DISH

HAZY DAYS

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pop-up this summer. ancient-greek-sandals.com

Add a snappy twist to your tablescaping with this hand-painted, one-of-akind earthenware plate. harliebrownstudio.com one-of-a-

PURPOSEJEWEL

FRIEZE NO.9 CORK STREET A new hub for galleries in the heart of Mayfair, London Hosting pop-up exhibitions, events, performances and more Free to visit and open all year round Explore in person at No.9 Cork Street and online on Frieze Viewing Room FRIEZE.COM/9CORKSTREET

The rose has forever captured hearts and minds, and this exhibition shines a light on its role in fashion, from the Victorian era to the modern day. Expect a profusion of wild and cultivated, natural and artificial blooms across contemporary designs by the likes of Alexander McQueen, Comme des Garçons and Vivienne Westwood, as well as photography by Tim Walker and Nick Knight, and gems from the museum’s archives, all of which explore the symbolism and enduring legacy of this most multi-sensorial of flowers.

WILD & C TI TED: FASHIONING SE GARDEN MUSEUM

gardenmuseum.org.uk

Until 19 June

In a first for the art world, Picasso’s Woman with a Book (1932) will be displayed next to the painting that inspiredit - Madame Moitessier (1844-1856) by Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres. Picasso became enthralled with the workafter seeing it in Paris in 1921, and repeatedly paid homage toIngres over the next decade. A unique opportunity to see thetwo masterpieces side by side. nationalgallery.org.uk

THE NATIONAL GALLERY

13 May - 26 June

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By HARRIET COOPE R

3 June - 9 October

19 May - 16 October

PICASSO INGRES: FACE TO FACE

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Contemporary artist Cornelia Parker has long been admired for her sculpture and large-scale installation art, for which she reconfigures domestic objects to address the zeitgeist. This show brings together films, drawings, prints and photographs, as well as her most iconic pieces, some of which spill out into Tate Britain’s permanent collection, as a means of dialogue with the historical works they reference. tate.org.uk

CORNELIA PARKER

CAMDEN ART CENTRE

TATE BRITAIN

Berlin-based artist Jesse Darling, who works across multiple media including film, sound and performance, is the fourth recipient of the Camden Art Centre Freelands Lomax Fellowship, a residency that supports emerging artists working with clay. Alongside Darling’s pieces created during the fellowship, there’ll be a solo exhibition of their work from the past decade, which reflects the vulnerability of the human body. camdenartcentre.org ParkerCornelia©1991

WHAT S ON & WHERE

Jesse Darling

THE NATIONAL GALLERY

THE CREDIT SUISSE EXHIBITION:

Until 31 July

Two Crows with

RIGHT: KawanabeLondon;Collection,CENTRE:Kyōsai, ‘Crow

A compelling look at Surrealism beyond 20s Paris, presenting it asa movement that transcends time and place. Painting, photography, sculpture and film have been collated,from Buenos Aires to Seoul, all illustrating how Surrealism was used by artists around the world in their struggle for political, social and personal freedom. tate.org.uk

RAPHAEL

Kawanabe Kyōsai, Hell Courtesan (Jigoku–dayū), Dancing Ikkyū and Skeletons, 1871–89. Israel Goldman

SURREALISM BEYOND BORDERS

Until 29 August

ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS

Kawanabe Kyōsai (1831-1889) is one of Japan’s most important painters, his revolutionary style continuing to influence artists today - from manga to tattoo art. Visitors will be able to admire an unprecedented collection of Kyōsai’s paintings, woodcut prints and illustrated books, as well as a series of his works created at shogakai - calligraphy and painting parties that took place during the Edo and Meiji periods. royalacademy.org.uk

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TATE MODERN

He may only have lived for 37 years but, as the National Gallery states, Raphael’s work was prolific, his legacy immortal. This is a blockbuster of a show, with the Italian Renaissance artist’s most celebrated paintings and drawings, as well as his work in architecture, poetry, and design for sculpture, tapestry and prints, allbrought together under one roof. nationalgallery.org.uk

Until 19 June

RIGHT:

Gourd’ (karasu–uri), c.1884–9. Israel Goldman KawanabeLondon;Collection,BOTTOM:Kyōsai, A Beauty in Front of King Enma’s Mirror 1871–89 (1887?). IsraelCollectionGoldman

Salvador Dalí Lobster Telephone 1938 Tate Purchased 1981 © Salvador Dali, Gala-Salvador Dali Foundation/DACS, London 2021 Raphael, The Madonna and Child with the Infant Baptist (The Garvagh Madonna) about 1509-10. © The National Gallery, London 11THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM

KYŌSAI: THE COLLECTIONGOLDMANISRAEL

Andreas Gursky

WHITE CUBE BERMONDSEY

TATE BRITAIN

Until 26 June Installation View of Bazar, Canal, New York. Image courtesy of the artist

Gursky,Andreas Salinas CubeWhiteCourtesyDACS./GurskyAndreas©2021.,CLOCKWISEFROMFARLEFT: Catalog elements, 1919, 1932, 1936, 1959, 2018, image courtesy of the artist and 47 Canal, New York; 6. a.m., 2020, image courtesy of the artist and 47 Canal, New York;

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Danielle Dean is the latest artist in Tate Britain’s ongoing Art Now series of free exhibitions, which showcases emerging British talent. Dean, who studied Fine Art at Central Saint Martins, explores how our minds and bodies are shaped by commercial narratives around us, at once challenging global capitalism and systems of racial discrimination. Drawing on her research in the archives of the Ford Motor Company in Detroit and footage shot by collaborators, her new multi-channel video installation Amazon investigates the practices of production, data extraction and commercial advertising. tate.org.uk

ART DANIELLNOW:EDEAN

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German artist Andreas Gursky is known for his large-scale architecture and landscape photographs - many taken from a high viewpoint - which reflect his take on global capitalism. This show represents Gursky’s most recent work, spanning the past four years, with a particular focus on the role of images in today’s society. whitecube.com

Until 8 May

Soane o�ice (Charles Tyrell), Royal Palace,dressingtheRadcliﬀscalesdrawinglectureAcademydrawing,comparativeshowingofStPeter’s,thePantheon,theeLibraryandRotunda,BankofEngland,c.1806-15Adamo�ice(GiuseppeManocchi),HarewoodHouse,Yorkshire,unexecutedceilingforthecircularroom,1767GrinlingGibbons,HamptonCourtunexecuteddesignforachimneypiece,c.1689-94 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Inji E�latoun, Portrait of Inji E�latoun, 1958; Francesca Woodman, A Woman; a Mirror; A Woman is a Mirror for a Man, Providence, Rhode Island, 1975-78; Arpilleras –Unknown female artist, [Untitled], 70s; Lisa Brice, Untitled, 2019; Paul McCarthy, Painter, 1996; Tracey Emin, France with Harry, 2021. All images courtesy of the artist 13THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM

WHITECHAPEL GALLERY

Until 5 June

1920 - 2020

Three years of painstaking research by the gallery’s director, Iwona Blazwick, alongside a curatorial panel, has resulted in this engaging deep-dive - and visual feast - into 100 years of the artist’s studio. The multi-media exhibition brings together works by more than 80 artists and collectives, from Egon Schiele and Andy Warhol to contemporary figures such as Walead Beshty and Lisa Brice. Throughout, the studio takes centre stage, showing how these spaces were the hub of creativity, where great art has been produced over the past century. whitechapelgallery.org

MASTERPIECESHIDDEN

fragility, but until June, highlights are on display for the first time. Marvel at illuminated manuscripts, Italian Renaissance drawings and volumes of exquisite Indian and Persian miniatures, all of which demonstrate Soanes’ unparalleled expertise. soane.org

A Century ofthe Artist’s Studio:

SIR JOHNMUSEUMSOANE’S

Throughout his life, architect Sir John Soane amassed the most becauseunderThey’reWilliamPiranesiGiovanniChristopherworksworld,drawingsarchitecturalcollectioncomprehensiveofintheincludingbySirWren,BattistaandKent.usuallykeptlockandkeyoftheir

EDVARD MASTERPIECESMUNCH.FROM BERGEN THE COURTAULD GALLERY 27 May - 4 September CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Althea McNish in her studio, c.1970. Image: Bill Patterson, courtesy N15 Archive; Golden Harvest textile, designed by Althea McNish for Hull Traders (c.1960s); Painted Desert, designed by Althea McNish for Hull Traders (1961). All images courtesy of the artist (1863-1944)MunchEdvard:LEFTTOPFROMCLOCKWISE BedDeaththeAt (1863-1944)MunchEdvardNorway;Bergen,Homes,ComposerandMuseumsArtKODE1895., KarlonEvening Johan (1863-1944)MunchEdvardNorway;Bergen,Homes,ComposerandMuseumsArtKODE1892., Night,Summer NorwayBergen,Homes,ComposerandMuseumsArtKODE1889. 14

Until 11 September

WILLIAM MORRIS GALLERY

The city of Bergen is home to some of the most seminal works by Edvard Munch, thanks to 20th-century Norwegian industrialist and collector Rasmus Meyer. This summer, in what is a first, some 18 paintings from this treasured collection will be on display at the Courtauld, from Munch’s early “realist” works of the 1880s to his remarkable canvases of the 1890s, including his Frieze of Life series. The Gallery’s own Impressionist and PostImpressionist masterpieces, also on display, provide rich context for what promises to be an extraordinary insight into the artist. courtauld.ac.uk

ALTHEA COLOURMcNISH:ISMINE

Textile designer Althea McNish claimed to see everything “through a tropical eye”, her furnishing and fashion fabrics injecting vibrancy and life into the post-war drabness from the 50s onwards. McNish was the first designer of Caribbean descent to achieve international recognition, and this is an exploration not just of her extraordinary career, but the lasting impact she had on mid-century design and her enduring influence today. wmgallery.org.uk

ROYAL ACADEMY

Dante Gabriel Rossetti, Ecce Ancilla Domine! [The Annunciation], 1849–50. Oil on canvas, 72.4 x 41.9cm. Tate: Purchased 1886. Photo: Tate Gustave Courbet, Jo, La Belle Irlandaise, 1865–66. Oil on canvas, 55.9 x 66cm. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, H. 0. Havemeyer Collection, bequest of Mrs. H. 0. Havemeyer Papiernik-Berkhauer;LiviastudentdegreeRSN1879-1939;Room,PaintRSNofheadWhichelo,NellieLEFT:TOPFROMCLOCKWISE theBeyond WaveBinary artisttheofcourtesyimagesAllPalace.CourtHamptonatstudentsdegreeRSNWhitehead;Millie2021graduatedegreeRSNby ARTS & CULTURE 15THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM

Until 22 May

150 Years Of The RoyalSchool Of Needlework: CROWN TO CATWALK

WHISTLER’SWOMANINWHITE: HIFFERNANJOANNA

FASHION AND TEXTILE MUSEUM Until 4 September

The Royal School of Needlework was founded in 1872 to preserve the art of hand embroidery and, secondly, to support women’s independence through work. This in-depth retrospective explores the school’s fascinating 150-year history, with collaborations, commissions and contemporary works all weaving a tale of one of the UK’s oldest and most revered applied arts organisations. fashiontextilemuseum.org

Joanna Hiffernan is well-known for being the flame-haired Irish-born artists’ model and muse, and this RA show delves into the role she played in the life of 19thcentury American painter James McNeill Whistler. Over 70 works, including nearly all Whistler’s depictions of Hiffernan, help build a picture of the pair’s professional and personal relationship. As well as detailing how Hiffernan was instrumental in Whistler’s success, the exhibition also serves to underscore how his works featuring the model had a huge influence over subsequent artists, from the PreRaphaelites to Klimt. royalacademy.org.uk

he title of Campbell Addy’s monograph, Feeling Seen, has multifarious meanings. When he was 16, the photographer was thrown out of home because of his sexuality. He was, he says, “a young Black boy from South London who’s queer and Ghanaian”, one who “couldn’t see myself anywhere. I knew that if I wanted to see myself, I had to have gumption.”

Words HARRIET COOPER

T

16

Feeling SEEN

Page after glossy page is filled with Addy’s striking work“My photographic style is sensitive, soft and full of creativity.” Woven between the images are quotes from those he’s worked with, including Campbell. “The first time I got in front of

London-based photographer Campbell Addy shares a candid snapshot of his life and work

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: FKA Twigs, for The Guardian Weekend, 2019; King Owusu, for Love magazine, 2020; Adut Akech, for i-D magazine, 2018. All images © Campbell Addy 2022

That spirit paid off. Addy is now one of the most indemand talents in the industry. He has captured the likes of Naomi Campbell and FKA Twigs, his portraits appearing in publications from Rolling Stone to Time. And now, there’s Feeling Seen. “I bounce between numbness and awe that I actually have a book, and proudness and joy because I worked so hard for everything I have,” he tells The Glossary.

Cktrl’s Zero EP

It is, as Vogue editor-in-chief Edward Enninful writes in the foreword, creatives like Addy who are responsible for the shift towards diversity and inclusion. The feeling, it would seem, is mutual. “There are many trailblazers that have inspired me. [These] include my dear friend Ibrahim Kamara. Secondly, Edward Enninful. The sheer grace and tact in how he’s diversified the fashion space… brings me hope that change is possible. And lastly, The Buffalo Collective… their influence on the fashion world is undeniable.”

the camera lens and looked up to see Campbell Addy, I realised something special was happening,” she says.

2021. All

CLOCKWISE FROM BELOW: Shaden Phillips and Rouguy Faye, for Luncheon magazine, 2020; Naomi Campbell, for The Guardian Weekend, Rhea Dillon, for Harper’s Bazaar US, and Sannchia Gaston, for cover, images

2019;

2020; Cktrl

17THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM

“The only advice I’d give my younger self is to believe in myself as an artist more,” he concludes. “Your art is valid, go forth and conquer.”

ARTS & CULTURE

But Feeling Seen isn’t just a glowing tribute to Addy’s genius - nor a recognition of his ability to capture the intersection of photography, race and representation. It’s also the story of someone who has faced a series of personal obstacles and overcome them.

Feeling Seen (Prestel, £39.99)

S oon after Marc Quinn’s giant sculpture of the artist Alison Lapper, depicted naked and pregnant, was put on Trafalgar Square’s empty fourth plinth in 2005, Justine Simons received a letter. The Fourth Plinth had been one of the first big projects in her role overseeing art and culture for the Mayor of London, and Quinn’s sculpture of Lapper, who was born without arms and with shortened legs, had provoked a huge national conversation. The letter she received was from a disabled woman who thanked her. “She said, ‘I’ve always wanted to have a child, and this has given me the confidence to do it,’” remembers Simons, “which was super powerful.” It showed how vital art and culture is to people, especially when you make it as public as the Fourth Plinth, and how important representation is. “It matters,” says Simons. Most people have realised that, particularly over the last two years. People joined choirs or wrote books; children painted rainbows in their windows. Even if you just burned through Netflix, says Simons with a laugh, it’s all part of it. “Whether it’s as

Words EMINE SANER

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She has played a pivotal role in the cultural revitalisation of London. Here, Deputy Mayor Justine Simons talks about the fundamental role of culture, fashion, and forging a future for the arts

“I went to see Roksanda’s show… just sublime,” she continues. Showing at Tate Britain, she collaborated with the artist Eva Rothschild. “Erdem [was] another absolutely gorgeous show... five at a

It’s that creative cross-pollination that sets London apart, she says. While other global cities seem to be defined by one industry – film, say, or fashion – London is a mix. “Those creative disciplines coming together – that brings the energy. There are over 300 languages spoken in London every day,

When we speak, Simons has returned from watching shows at London Fashion Week, and she is full of praise and excitement.

ERDEM AW22

She talks passionately about “hardwiring culture into the city” –initiatives such as creative enterprise zones, currently being piloted around London, which use local authority

“London is a city that has been defined in many ways by creativity. Fashion has been a backdrop, driving it, in the middle of it, reflecting it and challenging it"

“The kind of statues and plaques we’ve got in London right now does not represent London. It’s a question of representation, that’s at the core of it. The headline-grabbing thing is about taking statues down, but the Mayor doesn’t have that jurisdiction. It’s a borough planning issue, so it’s more about how we work with boroughs, so that we can make the public realm more representative.”

Simons is Deputy Mayor for Culture and the Creative Industries, one of London Mayor Sadiq Khan’s ten deputies, putting culture on the same standing as areas such as transport, housing and policing. She has worked at City Hall under both previous mayors - and was awarded an OBE in 2015 for services to culture - but she says Khan is the first “to have elevated culture as a top priority”. The creative economy brings in £58 billion, she points out, and (before Covid, at least) one in six jobs was a creative one, with culture the reason four out of five tourists came to London. There is a real recognition now, she says, that “culture has a role to play across all aspects of city policy, whether that’s economically, through tourism, supporting people’s health or driving regeneration”.

“What is really lovely is the creative collaborations,” she says. “The Preen show, which was in Heaven nightclub, was a collaboration with English National Ballet School. It was a beautiful piece of choreography, in an iconic nightclub, by a fantastic London designer.”

“The big vision for the Olympics was that it would be a massively positive regenerating force for east London,” says Simons. In one of the most deprived areas of the city, culture will be the driving force, “making it porous, opening up the doors”. She is also co-chair of the commission set up to look at public monuments and their place in the modern city.

He showed in Sadler’s Wells, again a fantastic London venue. And then Saul Nash, one of the new-gen menswear designers, created a brilliant film.”

Simons has had, and continues to have, a huge impact on London’s cultural and creative scene, though she’s very down-to-earth and you wouldn’t necessarily realise it. There are the high-profile projects, such as the Fourth Plinth and the 2012 Cultural Olympiad. Currently, she is overseeing the huge East Bank project in Stratford – bringing new sites for the BBC, Sadler’s Wells, the V&A and universities – that will establish one of the world’s biggest creative and cultural centres in east London as a legacy of the 2012 Olympic games.

Simons seems to be one of those rare creative people who can get equally excited about both a dynamic work of art and a technical piece of legislation. It’s not as flashy as her other projects, but one of her proudest achievements, she says, is founding the World Cities Culture Forum, a place where her counterparts in around 40 other global cities share knowledge and ideas.

a consumer or participant, arguably culture has been the thing that’s held us through the pandemic,” she says.

ROKSANDA AW22

in the world. So this incredible wide range of diversity of culture, of talent from across the world, is really a big part of the story.”

19THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM ARTS & CULTURE

“I love things that make me feel good, that are joyful … For me, it’s about human connection. That’s what culture can do – it can be the catalyst to bring us together

apartments. “That’s a brilliant piece of legislation but we need more of that, right? Grassroots music venues don’t have that type of protection. We’ve got to kind of name them as important parts of the fabric of the city, in our policy and planning documents, and explain why they’re important. One reason Adele is so successful is because she started in grassroots music venues – it’s making that link.” There is an emergency hotline – “the Batphone”, Simons says with a laugh – for “culture at risk. We supersized that in the pandemic. We managed to get emergency funding out to music venues, LGBT+ clubs, independent cinemas, and artists’ studios. The goal is that we don’t need that forever, but we do need that right now.”

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Simons started her career in contemporary dance, working as a producer and director, having discovered a love of dancing at primary school. She grew up in Stokeon-Trent, and art and culture were an important part of her family. Her father is a musician and bandleader, and her mother taught herself dressmaking. Simons remembers her choosing Vogue patterns. “If she was going to events that my dad was playing at, she’d often make her own outfits,” she says.

Simons developed her mother’s love of fashion – with her red lipstick and bright prints, she must bring fun and colour to the otherwise fairly sober style at City Hall. She loves, she says, “things that make me feel good, that are joyful. I like fashion as a kind of joyful, creative expression. London is a city that has been defined in many ways by creativity.” Think of the 60s and 70s, she says. “Fashion has been a backdrop to all of that, driving it, in the middle of it, reflecting it and challenging it.” She flies the flag for London designers, wearing Vivienne Westwood and Roksanda, as well as supporting newer names such as Bethany Williams, but she also likes vintage pieces too. Her partner, Darrell Vydelingum, is an artist and curator

powers and planning to safeguard artists’ spaces, such as studios, and encourage businesses and educational opportunities, with the aim of creating a sustainable, supportive environment. Simons lives in south London and has seen the negative effects of gentrification. “People often talk about that cycle – creatives move into an area, then it gets expensive, then they get booted out. So creative enterprise zones are about reversing that cycle, and the key to it is affordable space.”

Physical spaces also need protection, and that’s where legislation comes in. She points to the 1976 Theatres Trust Act that protects theatres – it’s why West End theatres are still occupying prime positions and haven’t been turned into

artists, pattern cutters, wig makers, photographers, violin fixers. There’s this massive community of brilliant creative people, and they are powering this big creative economy.” Many face low wages, insecure employment and poor working conditions. The pandemic “amplified the pressures, work collapsed overnight for freelancers, and many just dropped through the safety net”. Simons saw it

– they met on a blind date around 13 years ago and discovered a shared love of art. They also now share many clothes, both keen on a printed shirt and pussy-bow tie. “He buys me a lot of clothes, he’s got a good eye,” says Simons. “He started out when he was in his 20s with a stall on Portobello. We love mixing it up and having fun creating our own looks.”

As the post-pandemic recovery gears up, culture will play an enormous part and people are ready for it, she says. At London Fashion Week, “there seemed to be a real confidence returning. People have done amazing jobs at pivoting online, moving to digital, or a hybrid, and I think that’s here to stay to a large extent, but nothing replaces the kind of visceral excitement and energy of a show.” How should people support the arts? “Get off the sofa and go –that’s it,” she says. “Nothing beats being together, with family or friends, watching a theatre show, going to the cinema, a nightclub, watching a band. For me, it’s about human connection. That’s the thing I think that culture can do – it can be the catalyst to bring us together.”

ARTS

She has seen it in initiatives such as the London Borough of Culture, where boroughs submit bids for funding and support to create a programme of local cultural activities. “It’s about everyone, all ages, all backgrounds, being able to both experience and make culture on their doorstep,” says Simons. Waltham Forest became the first borough to take part in 2019, and she says it has “really shown the power of culture to transform people’s lives”. One project brought together vulnerable young people from two estates to create an original theatre piece. “They all grew in confidence,” says Simons. “Some came back into education, went to university, took work placements, and are still involved in the project, acting as mentors to the next generation coming through. We use the rhetoric, we say culture can offer people an alternative life path, but that’s what it is in Shepractice.”saysan estimated 150,000 creative jobs have been lost to London due to Covid. It may be an industry worth £58 billion but, she points out, “if you look under the surface of that, 90% of the industry is really small businesses and freelancers –

21THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM

first-hand when her partner couldn’t work. “Like lots of other artists, he was in the midst of about six projects when Covid hit, and everything ground to a halt. It’s been a really difficult time for all artists, freelancers and creatives.”

ABOVE: Deputy Mayor Justine Simons with The Mayor of London Sadiq Khan

& CULTURE

Hers wasn’t a particularly bohemian childhood, she stresses, but importance was put on individual creativity and happiness. “They weren’t the kind of parents that put pressure on us,” she says, which is just as well because Simons says she wasn’t academic at school, at least to begin with. She became involved in youth dance groups. “It was the thing that really gave me confidence,” she says. “It gave me lots of things that I wasn’t getting from the formal classroom. Social skills, confidence, how to work in a team, all of that stuff can come through creativity –that’s the reason it’s really important.”

Heather Phillipson, The End Fourth Plinth Trafalgar Square, London, 2020-2022

1: Blowtorching the Bitten Peach, Tate Britain Duveen Galleries commission, 2021-22

The Hayward Gallery

studioBrooklynherinSÉBASTIENNESTEoffrontinBourgeoisLouise NY.Foundation/VAGA,EastonThe©Isler,Vera©Photo:(1993).

Works of Art

Justine Simons’ favourite artists - from the female greats to the avant-garde

PHILLIPSONHEATHER

2005

MillingenVanRorybyphotographedPhillipsonHeather

Child at

Heather Phillipson, Rupture No

“Heather’s The End (2020) is on the Fourth Plinth right now. I think it’s brought real joy to people. I love her quite surreal take on the world. Her stuff is cartoon-like, but also can be a bit sinister. In The End , there’s this glorious, glossy cherry but also a bit of jeopardy – will the cream collapse? There are so many layers to Heather’s work.”

LOUISE BOURGEOIS

The

Marc hisstandsQuinnbefore2011painting We Share theChemistryOurwithStars

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“Louise has got a show on at the moment [The Woven Child at Hayward Gallery, until 15 May]. She is a fantastic artist, who studied mathematics and abandoned it for art. Her parents had a tapestry restoration business; you can see all of that coming through in her work, even though it’s about lots of different things, including sexuality and family.”

Quinn,Marc Pregnant,LapperAlison

Gallery, 2022. © The Easton Foundation/DACS, London and VAGA at Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York. Photo: Mark

“My first commission for the Fourth Plinth was with Marc Quinn. There was something about his sculpture, Alison Lapper Pregnant (2005), that really showed me the power of art in the public realm. It had classical references – it was made in marble and people likened it to the Venus de Milo. The sculpture was loved and hated in equal measure, becoming a huge talking point. We need to see ourselves reflected in the public realm, whether that’s putting up the statue Millicent Fawcett in Parliament Square or Alison Lapper on the Fourth Plinth.”

Installation view of Louise Bourgeois: Woven Hayward Blower/©

MARC QUINN

Wearing,GillianTOP: Old,Years17atPortraitSelf Wearing,Gillian©2003 BOTTOM:London;Paley,Maureencourtesy MyofMaskaHoldingCahunasMe Face, BonakdarTanyaLondon,Paley,MaureencourtesyWearing,Gillian©2012, AngelesLosProjects,RegenandYorkNewGallery, & CULTURE

23THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM

“I love working with artists and getting under the skin of their process. When Yinka made Nelson’s Ship in a Bottle (2010) for the Fourth Plinth, he created an exact replica of Nelson’s ship but with a twist, with its bright batik patterned sails. On the surface, everyone looked at it and went, ‘Wow, how did you get that ship in that bottle?’ But it’s also a more nuanced story about Empire, about colonialism, all of those things are there. I remember at the time Yinka saying one consequence of this history, which is not to diminish the very diﬃcult part, is that it made London such an international city.”

“I chaired the Suff rage Statue Commission and we commissioned Gillian to make a statue of the suff ragist leader Millicent Fawcett in Parliament Square. She rose to that challenge. Millicent Fawcett (2018) had all the reference points of the Square – it was both figurative and quite traditional, but still very contemporary. One of the questions for Gillian was how to represent the whole suff rage movement through one individual? She solved it elegantly by embedding photographs of many of the people who had contributed to the movement into the statue’s plinth.”

“The Swedish artist was born in the 1860s and is oft en referred to as the fi rst abstract artist, before Kandinsky and Mondrian. When she created her work, it was way ahead of its time. If you’ve ever seen her paintings exhibited in London, you’ll know it is beautiful, gorgeous work - I always connect to it. I like the story of her being such a pioneer but, as is the case with many women in history, she was written out. So the idea of Hilma af Klint being put in her rightful place in the history of art is important.”

HILMA AF KLINT

RIGHT: Gillian Wearing, Millicent Fawcett, 2018 bronze on marble plinth.Photo: GLA/Caroline Teo © Gillian Wearing, courtesy Maureen Paley, London, Tanya Bonakdar Gallery, New York and Regen Projects, Los Angeles

GILLIAN WEARING

Hilma af Klint, Group IV, The Ten Largest, No 3, Youth, 1907

WearingGillianofPortrait Wearing,Gillian© LondonPaley,Maureencourtesy

LEFT: Yinka Shonibare RA in 2017 Summer Exhibition © David Parry. ABOVE: Yinka Shonibare, May�lower, All Flowers. Courtesy the artist and Cristea Roberts Gallery, London © Yinka Shonibare

ARTS

Hilma af Klint, Group X, Altarpiece, No 1, 1915

YINKA SHONIBARE

I

t is a curious fact that in today’s image conscious world, where every one of us is able to produce pictures of ourselves adjusted to our idealised requirements, the person who has been the subject of the most images of all is a 95-year-old woman who has probably never fiddled around with an Instagram filter or Photoshop.

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Since she was born, there has been scarcely any element of her life that has not been recorded by somebody else, from the postcard of her as a sweet baby girl in an adorable bonnet to the immensely tragic pictures beamed around the world of her seated alone, due to pandemic restrictions, in St. George’s Chapel, Windsor Castle, at the funeral of Prince Philip, her husband of seventy-three years. The majority of pictures in this collection show us the Queen in a formally documented manner and, because they are deliberately arranged and sanctioned, they provide a fascinating insight into how she – or in the very early images, her parents – wished her to be seen.

As the Queen celebrates her Platinum Jubilee, Alexandra Shulman explores how portraiture has so evocatively and elegantly captured the life and reign of an icon

TRock he

Queen Elizabeth II Buckingham Palace, London by Annie Leibovitz, 2007

All these representations of the Queen can tell us so much of the time in which they were created and what the monarchy wanted us to feel about them. It has often been said that part of the key to the Queen’s success in her role throughout her long reign is that she has so clearly made public service and an overriding sense of duty the mainstay. But, when you look at so many of the pictures here, you see how they are about something else too. Something more emotional. They are attempts at connecting us to this family, which needs to be both relatable and yet something quite other.

The task of being at once symbolic and human is not simple, and this is true now more than ever when we crave, and perhaps expect, a sense of intimacy. So much contemporary

HM Queen Elizabeth II, born in 1926, has lived through the greatest changes in the creation of images of any monarch in the history of the world. Aside from the traditional painted portraits and drawings that were for centuries the method of royalty publicly positioning themselves, she has also had photography, television, social media, the 24-hour news cycle and the visual scrutiny of a massively enlarged world communication network with which to contend. And much of this is not in her control.

25

ofAges

"

‘H.R.H. The Princess Elizabeth: Her Royal Highness’s Merry Smile’ Published J. Beagles & Co, c.1933

Princess Margaret and Princess Elizabeth Windsor Castle, Berkshire Unknown Photographer,13 October 1940

“

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Princess Margaret and Princess Elizabeth delivering a wartime message in 1940 in their first public address. The broadcast, which was part of Children’s Hour, saw the 14 year-old future monarch sympathise with those evacuated from their homes in Britain, explaining that she too understood what it was like to be separated from those you love. 80 years later, the Queen would reflect on this broadcast during a televised address to the nation at the peak of the pandemic.

The task of being at oncesymbolic and human is not simple, and thisis true now more than ever when we crave, and perhaps expect, asense of intimacy

documentation of famous people is intended to look as if it were the ‘real’ person, even if in reality the image is as much a construct as a Cecil Beaton portrait. Our expectations of what we are allowed to see has changed. No longer is the distant monarch entirely satisfactory, nor can she be just like us. Images of the Queen, in a way that is not so distant from fashion photography, need to be aspirational. She has to appear just the right, attainable side of perfect. But, unlike a fashion photograph, we need to believe and trust in her.

She is symbolic, out of this world, a distanced figure clad in the panoply of royalty. In more recent years, we have seen the Queen presented in this manner far less often, but, even in a more everyday mode, she loses none of her majesty. She remains one of the contemporary world’s true icons.

years taking pleasure in matching her patterned dresses to the bright fabric of her coats, and always accessorising every outfit with the astounding collections of diamond brooches she owns. And such a signature style has served her well, helping her live up to expectations. As a monarch, her clothes have always had to conform to regal demands – to allow her to be seen from a distance, to be functional and not to disappoint. People want to see the Queen and they want her to look as they expect. Distinctive and utterly familiar.

An edited extract from Elizabeth II: Princess, Queen, Icon by Alexandra Shulman (£14.95, National Portrait Gallery Publications)

This War Office photo from 1945 shows the Queen posed against the kind of military vehicle she was learning to service. This kind of imagery was important for signaling that the royal family, like the rest of the country, were part of the war effort.

What is striking about the thousands of images of the Queen over her ninetysix years of life is how consistent they are. The ingredients of what and who we have come to recognise as the Queen were established even by the age of 10 when Princess Elizabeth became unexpectedly heir presumptive to the throne. Her hair, for example, has never changed from the wavy chin-length cut, swept back from her brow to show her clear and steady gaze. Similarly, when you consider how much our own clothes change with the decades, hers have remained strikingly similar and yet, despite that, never neither contemporary nor old fashioned.

The Queen may not always be hugely interested in fashion, but she has always cared about her clothes, in recent

Princess Elizabeth Auxiliary Territorial Service Training Centre, Camberley, Surrey

William Horton, 1945

27

Indeed, as Princess Elizabeth reached adulthood, the country was at war and it could be said that in some ways the royal family had a ‘good’ war. Still recovering from the epic shock of the abdication of Edward VIII, the Second World War gave George VI and his family an opportunity to establish themselves in the minds of their people. They were reassuring figures during this time of crisis and needed to be seen, which they were mainly through the many photographs they released in those years. We have the Princesses

Elizabeth and Margaret in 1940 in front of their broadcasting microphones, dressed identically in neat wool jackets and non threateningly normal striped jerseys, Elizabeth with the script in her hand. She was launching a voice to go alongside the pictures.

On 20 November 1947, Princess Elizabeth married Philip Mountbatten at Westminster Abbey, with the ceremony broadcast on the radio to an estimated 200 million people around the world. Elizabeth wore a dress by one of her favourite designers Norman Hartnell, who set out to create “the most beautiful dress I had so far made”. The ivory silk gown was embroidered with 10,000 seed pearls and featured a 15 foot train inspired by Boticelli’s 1482 painting ‘Primavera’, symbolising rebirth and growth after the war.

Princess Elizabeth Buckingham Palace, London Dorothy Wilding, November 1947

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29

Queen Elizabeth II Photographer’s Studio, London Dorothy Wilding, 26 February 1952

Dorothy Wilding first photographed Elizabeth in 1937 at the coronation of her father, King George VI, becom ing the first female photographer to receive a Royal Warrant in 1942. The society photographer went on to capture Her Majesty on significant occasions. This portrait was one of a series to mark the Queen’s accession in 1952, just twenty days into her reign. A total of fifty-nine photographs were taken that day, with the Queen wearing a variety of gowns by Norman Hartnell and glittering jewels. Portraits from this sitting formed the basis for the new currency, appearing on coins and banknotes, as well as stamps - while another image was selected as the official portrait and sent to every British Embassy around the world. A selection of images from this series were hand-coloured by Beatrice Johnson, a colourist and retoucher at Dorothy Wilding's Studio, making them at once more naturalistic than the monochrome original and also more artificial.

30

The work was commissioned by Reader’s Digest and presented to the National Portrait Gallery in celebration of the Queen’s 60th birthday. Michael Leonard, a leading British photorealist painter, commented that his aim was “a straightforward rather informal picture that would tend to play down the remoteness of Her Majesty’s special position”. The corgi was 8-year-old Spark, whom the Queen herself chose to bring along to the sittings, “possibly because of her obedience and good nature ... Spark was a great asset at the sittings. She did all that was asked of her and provided the occasion for Her Majesty to adopt a pose that was unforced and natural, lending the composition a degree of liveliness and movement.”

Queen Elizabeth II Yellow Drawing Room, Buckingham Palace, London Michael Leonard, 1985–6

31

Chris Levine, Rob Munday, 2012

Commissioned in 2004 by the Channel Island of Jersey, this portrait was created by Ontario-born artist Chris Levine with holographer Rob Munday to commemorate the island’s 800-year allegiance to the Crown. Two sittings took place and over 10,000 images were made to form the three-dimensional Equanimity, the first holographic portrait of the Queen.

Equanimity

STYLE

HAPPY DAYS

Fashion is headed somewhere over the rainbow as this year’s trend for dopamine dressing gathers momentum. Caroline Herrarra sprinkles the feelgood factor across SS22 with happiness-inducing hues and bold floral prints, all brought to life in artist and photographer Elizaveta Porodina’s fantastical images. Turn to page 36 for a mood-enhancing look at this season’s kaleidoscopic collections carolinaherrera.com

Craft gets a chic spin, the avant-garde shoe and a curated edit for the modern bride

Costume Drama

Fashion Notes

Embrace the ﬂower power mood of the moment with these retro-inspired shades. Created as part of the annual collection with Paula’s Ibiza – the Spanish boutique du jour of the ‘70s - say hello to the sunglasses of the summer. £290; loewe.com

REIMAGINEDREGENCY,REIMAGINED

There are few silhouettes more iconic than a Launer handbag, which has been the Queen’s bag of choice for decades. With 80 years of heritage, the storied brand has a proud legacy of craftsmanship, with every single one of its fine leather goods handmade in the same factory in Britain.

FIT FOR A QUEEN

Traviata Handbag, £ 2,090 launer.com

New York-based Amy Crookes is the new shoe designer to know, for one-of-a-kind styles that no one else is wearing. She is now stocked in the UK in Browns, where her summer collection includes these slingbacks made from stretchy, satin fabric - a witty take on the 90s scrunchie. £455 brownsfashion.com

HEAD TO TOE

34

In light of the new series of Bridgerton, Netﬂix has teamed up with the British Fashion Council for a second time to commission three up-and-coming designers to create garments inspired by the lavish show. The resulting Regencycore-meets-modernity styles by Ifeanyi Okwuadi, Latifa Neyazi (pictured) and Jeongmin Ji are as dramatic as they are ﬂamboyant. britishfashioncouncil.co.uk

Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT

SUNNY DELIGHT

35THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM

MADE TREASURETO

As weddings make a comeback with an estimated 2.5 million taking place this year, MatchesFashion have simplified wedding dress shopping with their new edit of contemporary designs. Spanning ready-to-wear, footwear, bags, accessories and jewellery, the collection includes unique pieces created by designers such as Emilia Wickstead, Erdem and Molly Goddard. From sculptural sets and sharply tailored trouser suits to minimalist mini dresses and ethereal gowns, it’s surely the most effortlessly elegant way to say ‘I do’. matchesfashion.com

Continuing with the fashion house’s – and new creative director Gabriela Hearst’s – long-standing sustainable ethos, Chloé has launched Chloé Craft, an expansion of pieces celebrating the skills of independent artisans. Each handmade styleincluding this long, fringed cape in hand-painted stripes (£4,510) - is identiﬁed with a special label, and the entire project aims to be low impact, using deadstock fabrics and transparencyensuringacross the entire supply chain. chloe.com

MATCH MAKER

Ganni is on a roll right now, with the Copenhagen-based label releasing a new and noteworthy collab every few weeks. First there was their sought-after collection with Juicy Couture, which reinvented the iconic Noughties tracksuit with an updated eco-conscious version. Then there was their partnership with New Balance, where they put their own spin on the cult sneakers. Now, this Spring sees the second iteration of an upcycled collaboration with London-based designer Priya Ahluwalia - this time all in denim. Stand-outs from the 16-piece capsule include a cut-out dress, a trench coat and a beret all made from reworked dead stock. If that wasn’t enough, they’ve also launched their own resale platform, where customers can buy and sell pre-loved Ganni pieces via a clever peer-to-peer model. ganni.com

DOUBLE ACT

Nensi Dojaka x Mytheresa

Miuccia Prada translated neon yellow onto silk dresses with exaggerated waistlines, Proenza Schouler showcased head-to-toe blood orange tailored suits and there were megawatt mini-skirt suits at Moschino (do I spy my new office wear?!). At Valentino, delicately pleated dresses were given a hard edge with neon green, while Versace popped with fluoro tones. Cult London-based designer Richard Quinn created a jaw-dropping showstopper. A gigantic yellow taffeta gown that puffed out at the model’s bust and waist distorting her body, swathes of fabric rustled and trailed behind her as she walked. It was as if the model was transformed into a highfashion sunbeam.

f there is one thing that united the Spring / Summer 22 shows, it was sheer, colourful joy. Fashion is finally veering away from the fail-safe ensembles of head-to-toe black in favour of sunset to sunrise colours, bright citrus shades and neon hues. And I am here for it.

SchoulerProenza

36

Designers have fully embraced the rainbow this season, with acid brights and sunshine hues to boost our wardrobes and our mood

I

Even Nensi Dajokawhose layered, deconstructed party and swim wear with its slashes, cut-outs and flesh reveals typically comes in her signature black, burgundy and nude - has turned up the colour. A new collaboration by the 2021 LVMH Prize-winning designer and MyTheresa has resulted in a capsule collection in Opal Fruit shades of pink, orange and yellow.

Chanel

DOPAMINE

ChoiEudon

by FLORA MACDONALD JOHNSTON

QuinnRichard

DRESSING

This fervent output of dopamine dressing makes perfect sense. Dopamine is the most common neurotransmitter in our brain, explains behavioural psychologist Dr Carolyn Mair, author of The Psychology of Fashion. Its main role is to motivate us to reach a reward. “If that reward is to get a positive outcome from our appearance, then our dopamine is going to kick in and it’s going to give us that boost.” And while wearing punchy, vibrant hues to improve our psyche isn’t a new phenomenon, in our current world of uncertainty and crisis, we’ve never needed a mood-boosting wardrobe more.

HerreraCaroline

MaraMax

HerreraCarolineHalpern

It was the same after both World Wars. Just look at the feathers and flamboyance of the Roaring Twenties or Dior’s New Look in the late 1940s - both knee-jerk reactions to the austerity and misery that preceded them. The pandemic has also meant that fashion has been primarily translated through screens and our devices, in other words, lacklustre. Zoom fatigue became the droll buzzword. Now, as we rejoin the world, we want to show that we’re back.

Versace GurungPrabal

STYLE 37THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM

“Over our lifespan we come to associate particular colours with particular objects, occasions and emotions as a result of our experiences and socialisation (upbringing) ... The reason a colour can boost our mood is that it reminds us of something positive, like summer for example,” continues Mair. “Red might remind us of romance as a result of its association with the heart and more recently, Valentine’s Day.

Nensi Dojaka x Mytheresa

Tcherassi

“There were bursts of colour and everywheresparkles[atthespring/summershows];amark of a season where we can embrace going askedBrownsbuyingIdaagain,”out-outsaysPetersson,directoratFashionwhenwhydopaminecolours have hit the runway so heavily. On the increase of sunny shades, Petersson believes it’s because yellow is “the perfect accent throughout collections… the right shade against certain skin-tones can be one of the most powerful style statements you can make. It can literally illuminate the lucky wearer.” (Incidentally, for those craving the happy hit, she tells me there will be plenty of Valentino and Versace stocked at Browns this summer.)

TcherassiSilvia

38

VauthierAlexandre

Matty Bovan

The more we hear paired associations - such as, yellow is a happy colour - the more they become beliefs. When perceptions become beliefs, they influence our behaviour and therefore, the outcomes of our behaviour. We tend to associate orange with joy, for example, but individuals have their own preferences.”

Indeed, Jessica Payne, head of fashion at sharing platform Pinterest, says that ‘dopamine dressing’ is the heavy hitting trend this year - especially amongst Gen Z. In fact, it’s the most popular fashion search of 2022 so far, higher even than ‘Regency Fashion’ with this spring’s Bridgerton craze. Searches for ‘electric blue outfit’ have increased 140 per cent, so, too, phrases such as ‘vibrant outfits’ and ‘rainbow dress’. Hence this season’s hyperbright collections.

The Glossary Edit

39THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM

Petersson is not wrong, according to the colour masters at the Pantone Colour Institute, who have collated responses and reactions to yellow for the past 30 years, the most common phrases given in reply have been ‘warmth’, ‘cheer’, and ‘playfulness’. It’s our big dopamine-inducing-life-giving star. This sense of playfulness resonates with me. When I am tired (too many close deadlines and late nights) the more kaleidoscopic I become. A favourite uplifting look of mine is Stella McCartney’s Happy jumper paired with my Gucci green trousers.

But there is one look and one designer who must be mentioned - Jacquemus. Arguably Instagram and TikTok’s most fodderable and viral designer. For his SS22 show he transported guests to the sun-soaked shores of Oahu, Hawaii where models walked down an idyllic beach, dressed in popping shades of electric blue, neon green - and yes - head-to-toe yellow from lemon to sunset. One particular ensemble caught my eye, a slim-fit tailored orange hued trouser and short-sleeved shirt styled with matching gloves. The environment, the weather, that look. The smile on my face as I write simply confirms the matter. Consider me fully dopamine dosed.

Oﬀ-White Bucket Hat, £230 oﬀ---white.com La Manso Knuckle Duster Ring, € 59 Bottegalamanso.shopVeneta Mini Jodie Metallic Leather Bag, £1,520 selfridges.com Rowen Rose Hand-Embroidered Couture Bustier Dress, £7,280 koibird.com Prada Double Miniskirt,Satin£2,159 prada.comBeaBongiasca Lucky Earrings,Flower€ beabongiasca.comCoperni High Neck Top, £150 koibird.com Miu Miu Patent Pumps, £790Themiumiu.comAtticoJagger£517Trousers, theattico.com Bea Bongiasca Earrings,Flower€1,500 beabongiasca.com Flora’s pick of the kaleidoscopic collections

Jacquemus

TROPICANA BRIGHTS

MaxwellBrandon

OlowuDuro

Kenneth Ize

EmporioArmaniSchiaparelli

Nautical stripes and Breton tops need to get to the back of the line - bold colours are the new modern way to go linear. Jil Sander and Keneth Ize embraced stripes from head-to-toe with bright shirting, wide-leg trousers and wrap skirts. Brandon Maxwell sent green and orange horizontal stripes down the runway, Duro Olowu went vertical, and Daniel Roseberry, Creative Director of Schiaparelli, used thick red-and-white markings across suit sets and kaftan dresses for his Surrealist’s Holiday collection in a playful twist on the beach umbrella.

LACALIFORNIENNE Daybreak£1,355Watch LOUBOUTINCHRISTIAN Palavas 85 £615Sandals ANDERSONJW KnitStretchDress£550

Jil Sander

SHOW YOUR S T R I P E S

Proenza Schouler, too, had hefty and thick fringing translated onto block colour evening dresses in fireengine red and yellow for the full swish effect. and oversized and

Elie Saab

We’re used to seeing fringe on the runway, adorning a jacket here, embellishing a hem there, but designers ripped up the fringe rule book for summer and these ribbon-like details became bolder - and much much bigger. At Chloe, dresses featured plaited and twisted multicoloured cords that ran the length of the garments from collarbone to shin, and tops featured chunky oversized fringing at the shoulders and hems.

VictoriaTomas SchoulerProenza

41THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM

What better way for designers to herald a joyous new season than with feathers? Not only were colourful tops, mini-skirts and dresses embellished entirely with Ostrich feathers at Valentino, Creative Director Piccioli Pierpaolo even translated them onto accessories, shoes and bags too. At Giambattista Valli, feathers featured on pink 1950s style dresses and Alesandro Michele of Gucci made Cousin ‘IT’ cool, showcasing a huge cocoon-shaped red feathered coat with contrasting green ruff that tucked just below the chin. It was both whimsical and witty in equal measure.

IN FINE FEATHER

Taller Marmo

LA MILANESA Teresa Fringe Tote Bag £205 DRIES VAN NOTEN Fringed£1,360Coat TALLER MARMO Ubud£1,500Dress BOTTEGAVENETA DotSandalsFeather£1,045 Gucci Germanier KomaDavid

FRINGE BE NEFITS

Well Heeled

42

LOEWE Rose Heel loewe.com£1,200Sandal

From nail varnish bottles to fried eggs, soap to roses, Loewe’s kitsch heels are the shoes of the season. Step into Summer with these standout styles

Yes Darling Mule 95 aquazzura.com£700 YUME YUME Love Heel farfetch.com£426Sandals LOEWE Nail Polish loewe.com£850Sandal FILLING PIECES Carabiner fillingpieces.com£280Sandal PALM ANGELS Palm farfetch.com£470Heels LOEWE Soaploewe.com£825Sandal

MACH & MACH Heartharrods.com£950Sandals

Paloma sophiawebster.com£475Wedge MOSCHINO Logo Block Heel Pumps farfetch.com£745 ROGER VIVIER Cube Strass Heel Mule rogervivier.com£1,150 CULT GAIA Su koibird.com£385Sandals JW ANDERSON Chain Link jwanderson.com£495Sandal STYLE 43THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM

AQUAZZURA

WEBSTERSOPHIA

The same angular design, removable shoulder strap and bold colour options - just with much more room. jaquemus.com

Le Bambinou

FENDI Fendigraphy

IT-BAG

£550

This season’s STATEMENT BAGS embrace the nostalgic and the new with reworked classics and soon-to-be cult styles

Logomania isn’t going anywhere, not least where Fendi is concerned. The Fendigraphy hobo comes in three sizes - small, medium and nano - and multiple colours, but all feature the fashion house’s logo in huge gold metal lettering across the base. fendi.com

JACQUEMUS

JW ANDERSON

The Bumper Bag

The miniature Le Bambino bag has been a bestseller ever since it launched. Now, for those of us who like their bag to hold more than just an iPhone, a more capacious version is available - Le Bambinou.

The EDIT

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£760

JonathanBumperAnderson’sBagcomes in a kaleidoscope of shades, contrasting the leather body with a dramatic, oversized tubular outline. Futuristic yet reminiscent of early Noughts Bratz dolls and cartoons in its colour pairings, it’s a guaranteed mood booster. jwanderson.com

From £895

From £1600

silhouettebaguettebutwith all

From £1,450

CHANEL

Gucci looks to its past, paying tribute to the 75-year-old Bamboo bag, ﬁ rst created by the fashion house in 1947. The updated style is smaller, and comes in new colourways with interchangeable straps and, of course, a curved bamboo handle. gucci.com

From £1,950

LOEWE Luna

Loewe’s fresh, new sihouette, the Luna bag, is so named because of its crescent, moonlike shape, which curves elegantly under the arm. Subtle gold-tone hardware and a jacquard strap complete the 70s vibe. loewe.com

£4,080 braided straps that

GUCCI Bamboo 1947 Mini Top Handle

45THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM

BALENCIAGA Le Cagole

Picking up on the resurgence of the Y2K fashion trend, Demna Gvasalia has reimagined Balenciaga’s early Noughties Motorcycle bag for a generation,newgiving it a smaller silhouettebaguettebutwith all the studs, buckles and braided straps that are so familiar. balenciaga.com

Virginie Viard’s design is a throwback to when Chanel ﬁrst introduced the shape into its collections in the Nineties. Cra ed from quilted lambskin leather with the French fashion house’s signature leather and chain strap, choose from black, white or candy pink and wear to your heart’s desire. chanel.com

STYLE

The latest launches and most covetable new pieces to have on your radar

Rites of Spring

Compiled by MING LIU

A FINE MESH

Boghossian’s special Diaphane Mesh is among the thinnest and most flexible there is. The second-skin-like net of gemstones is akin to the finest of cloth, and made achievable through 3D laser printing, painstaking laser soldering and hand-setting of some hundreds if not thousands of stones. And when paired with these opal earrings? Perfection. boghossianjewels.com

WINGS OF DESIRE

SERPENT’S TALE

powers

PETAL POWER

Watch & Jewellery Notes

For spring, Van Cleef & Arpels has embraced one of jewellery’s most beloved motifs – the butterﬂy. Fluttering from the neck and face to the hand in the form of pendants, earrings and rings, this season’s Two Butterﬂy collection comes in bold blue turquoise paired with warm yellow gold, all dusted with diamonds. vancleefarpels.com

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Gra heralds the change of season with Wild Flower, its beautiful new collection of diamond floral pieces that bloom with sculptural volume and organic asymmetry. Four di erent styles have been created, each with its own versatility, whether a single flower, a trio of blooms, floral clusters or rows of blossoms. A joyous stacking delight. From £5,000, gra .com

Bulgari has revived its BVL100 calibre from the 70s in the form of the delightfully named Piccolissimo, now one of the smallest mechanical movements on the market. It powers four of the Serpenti secret watches, whose dials are hidden inside the snake’s mouth. Expect some great things from this tiniest of calibres. bulgari.com

47THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM WATCHES & JEWELLERY

PEARLY QUEEN

In its ongoing commitment to contributing to a more sustainable industry, London-Copenhagen online jeweller Finematter’s pioneering Renew, Recycle and Resell programme is all about highlighting jewellery’s longevity. Consumers can freshen up old, unloved pieces with new gold plating or polishing, as well as trade in old jewels (whose precious materials will be recycled), and sell their pieces on Finematter’s dedicated secondary market site. finematter.com

FORCES OF NATURE

The Japanese jeweller Tasaki and designer Melanie Georgacopoulos mark their ten-year collaboration with three new M/G Tasaki collections, each one oozing Georgacopoulos’ signature rule-breaking style. Triple Pearl (from £2,550) is a play on volume, set in pink and purple pearls; Wedge (from £1,930) juxtaposes symmetry and asymmetry, looking classic yet avant-garde; and Square Leaf (from £1,830) is all about disrupting perfect spheres and squares. All are unexpected and nothing like your grandmother’s pearls. Yes, please. tasaki.co.uk

A love of nature, plus fine art and sculpture, pulses through the creations of the Brazilian-born, New York-based jeweller Ana Khouri. Cue this Jarina Seed necklace, crafted in white diamonds and 18ct Fairmined gold, which Khouri said saw her become “absorbed” by the connection between seeds, rosewood and gems, exploring their relationship and “inherent tension”. The result is beautiful and organic in its simplicity. anakhouri.com

Renew & Recycle BRIGHTSPARKS

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areDiamondsForever

The Skydiamond is the brainchild of environmentalist Dale Vince OBE, founder of green energy provider Ecotricity. Vince and his team have spent more than five years developing a process of mining the sky for atmospheric carbon and turning it into real diamonds (which are the ultimate form of carbon, after all) in their Cotswolds-based “sky mining facility”, using 100% renewable energy.

These are zero-impact, carbonnegative diamonds - and they’re extraordinary. Brilliant, sparkling, precious, Skydiamonds are identical to earth-mined diamonds, both to the naked eye and in their chemical composition. They’re even graded in the same way using the standard 4Cs (carat weight, colour, cut and clarity). But what sets them apart is that they’re completely ethical.

49THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM WATCHES & JEWELLERY

Everything needed to create a Skydiamond comes from the sky. First off, CO₂ is extracted from the atmosphere, liquified then purified; with the CO₂ removed, “the air we put back is cleaner than the air we take out, turning a negative into a positive,” explains Vince.

t gives a whole new meaning to The Beatles’ hit Lucy in the Sky With Diamonds - for this Spring sees the launch of the world’s first truly sustainable diamond, the Skydiamond. As its name suggests, this glittering gemstone is mined from the sky, not the earth.

Rain water - powered by the wind and sun - is split into oxygen and hydrogen which is then combined to create carbon-rich methane gas. This is then fed into a sealed chamber or “diamond mill” which contains a “diamond seed” and heated to around 1000 Celsius. As the carbon bonds with the seed, the Skydiamond is formed. Creating diamonds in this way has a positive impact on multiple levels. Removing carbon dioxide from our skies helps reduce damage caused by CO₂ emissions. Plus, of course, skymining eliminates the need for earthmining, which can have an irreversible impact on the environment, from soil erosion and deforestation to animal endangerment. Not to mention the fact that each carat of a traditionally mined diamond has a footprint of over 100kg of carbon dioxide and over 500kg of greenhouse gases in total (in contrast, a one-carat Skydiamond has a footprint of minus 4g of CO₂). And that’s before we even get to the thorny issues of child exploitation, corruption andInstead,displacement.thisisa new era of diamond mining that neither exploits humans nor the environment. “We are making something that people want in a “We are making something that people want, in a process that works for the environment. This is the way forward for the diamond industry for people who want to make ethical choices"

I

The Skydiamond is a dazzling new process of mining diamonds from the sky, rather than the earth, making it the world’s ﬁrst zero-impact diamond

Words HARRIET COOPER Photography RANKIN

“Skydiamonds are modern alchemy - impossible and inspirational,” he explains. “This is the best example yet that the greener life we need to live is not about giving things up. It’s just about finding another way. Bling without the sting - as we like to say.”

skydiamond.com 50

process that works for the environment,” Vince tells The Glossary. “This is the way forward for the diamond industry for people who want to make ethical choices.”

The air we put back is cleaner than the air we take out, turning a negative into a positive"

This forward-facing way of mining diamonds has not been lost on Lily Cole, who is a passionate advocate for sustainability, notably within the realm of fashion. The model and activist has joined forces with photographer Rankin to celebrate the Skydiamond with a series of images that resonate for their simplicity and efficacy.

Vince certainly knows his stuff. Alongside founding the Global Green Energy Movement in 1995 with Ecotricity, the eco entrepreneur also created the Electric Highway - the world’s first national charging network for electric carsand he’s Chairman of Forest Green Rovers, the world’s first vegan - and UN-certified carbon neutral - football club.

“Diamonds are synonymous with beauty,” explains Cole. “But for many years the mining of jewels has been a very ugly business. Skydiamond blew my mind when

Welcome to the bright future of diamonds.

“

“We have only just got started with Skydiamond, which are literally the rarest diamonds on earth,” Vince tells us. “We have already launched a pop-up at Selfridges, we have an online shop where we release a small number of Skydiamonds every few months (the next drop is 19 May) and we’re launching our first collection with Stephen. I am really looking forward to that.”

I first learned about them: we can mine the sky, turning an existential problem into this coveted thing of beauty. They represent the perfect metaphor of how we ought to be evolving every industry in the face of the climate crisis: carbon negative by design; a solution rather than a problem.”

Cementing Skydiamond’s glittering debut, Stephen Webster MBE will be the first to launch a Skydiamond collection later this year. “I cannot remember a time in my life where a gem has not been dug out of the ground,” the London-based contemporary jeweller says. “This already is extraordinary - but when you add into the mix that a gem has come from the sky by a carbon neutral process that transmutes atmospheric carbon, it is truly exceptional - an innovation and product we are excited to collaborate with and launch to market.”

WATCHSPRING

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Gem Dior

A total of 384 coloured gemstones make up this rainbow-bright timepiece - the second collaboration between the Swiss luxury watchmaker and the Japanese contemporary artist. The face takes the form of a smiling ﬂower - Murakami’s signaturecreated from rubies, pink sapphires, amethysts, blue sapphires, tsavorites and sapphires in yellow and orange, which pop against the polished sapphire crystal case and transparent strap.

THIS SEASON’S ELEGANT TIMEPIECES COME IN THE PRETTIEST OF HUES

Ice blue is emerging as the dial colour du jour in watchmaking, and Rolex has elevated the hue by pairing it with platinum. This marks a new dial colour and precious material combo that will only be reserved for Rolex platinum pieces going forward. Add to that a new ﬂuted bezel for the ﬁrst time – and you’re looking at one of the most coveted Rolex models of 2022.

Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami Sapphire Rainbow

The Gem Dior watch collection ri s o the organic, sensual shape of rough gemstones, all framed in a signature eight-faceted bezel, and comes in all manner of colourways, from chic monochrome to a rainbow medley of stones. The latest design is perfect for spring: a trio of hardstones –aragonite, carnelian and tiger’s eye – o ers a beautiful palette to show o the collection’s angular, multifaceted beauty.

ROLEX Day-Date 40

£88,000 hublot.com

£50,850 rolex.com

DIOR

Words MING LIU

HUBLOT

£56,000 dior.com

Arceau Les Folies du Ciel

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

Leave it to Vacheron Constantin to bring ultra-femininity to high complications: its new Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar is ultra-thin at just 4.05mm thick, presented in an elegant 36.5mm diameter case topped with gorgeous pastel dials in either blue-grey tinted mother-of-pearl for the white-gold model, or white mother-of-pearl for the pink gold – all set on matching tonal straps. £74,500 vacheron-constantin.com

Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar

OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

CARTIER

Coussin de Cartier

POA cartier.com

Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier

HERMÈS

WATCHES & JEWELLERY 53THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM

This spring, time-telling becomes a super-romantic a air with the new Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier watch. A dozen red and pink miniature painted flowers open and close throughout the day to indicate the hours, as blue butterfl ies flutter round a garden of sculpted gold branches and clouds of mother-of-pearl.

POA vancleefarpels.com

Cartier has always been a master of shapes – and on point about naming them, too. There’s the nail motif Juste un Clou, the Dali-esque Crash watch or the bath-shaped Baignoire. Now, enter the square – or pillow – shaped Coussin de Cartier, where a spiral of diamonds ring the watch face, with the stones coming in varying diameters for extra tactility and allure.

This delightful Arceau Les Folies du Ciel watch harks back to a 1984 Hermès silk scarf that celebrated aerostatics – think ﬁ n de siècle hot-air balloons, airships and ﬂ ying vessels – and is now immortalised on this beautiful textured motherof-pearl dial with engraving and miniature-painted appliqué. Limited to 25 pieces. £55,170 hermes.com

To mark the watch’s 20th anniversary, Omega has launched a collection of Seamaster Aqua Terra models in new dial colours that range from ‘Aqua’ to ‘Terra’, reﬂecting the shades of both sea and land. The women’s 34mm range comes in Sea Blue, Lagoon Green, Sandstone, Shell Pink and Lavender, on bracelets that have been redesigned with rounded links. €5,420 omegawatches.com

ALL THAT GLITTERS

BEAUTY

The latest Fenty Beauty release, the limited-edition Sun Stalk’r Face + Eye Bronzer & Highlighter Palette (£36), is designed to provide a long-lasting glow for all skin tones. Combining the popular Sun Stalk’r bronzer with two new highlighter shades, the versatile palette can create a natural sun-soaked radiance as well as deliver buildable coverage for a more dramatic, sculpted look. fentybeauty.com

FRESH FACED

GREAT LENGTHS

HELLO, SUNSHINE

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GLOW WITH IT

The Skin Enhance Luminous Tinted Serum is the newest addition to Rosie Huntington-Whiteley’s beauty line Rose Inc. The skincare-makeup hybrid - which comes in 14 shades - works on multiple levels: while its hydrating formula visibly plumps and smooths skin, and peptides protect against environmental aggressors, it also gives sheer coverage for a luminous ﬁnish. £36; roseinc.com

ere are hair dryers and then there’s the Zuvi Halo Hair Dryer. Rather than relying on extreme heat, the Zuvi’s patented technology enables it to use light energy to dry water on the surface of the hair, thereby leaving locks shinier, smoother and strongerplus, as it utilises less power, it’s more sustainable too. £329; zuvi.uk

Liquid Asset

The future-tech hair dryer, a multi-tasking serum and the new beauty department at fashion boutique Browns Beauty Notes

Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT

With summer comes an increase in hyperpigmentation, aka unwanted dark spots and patches. So thank goodness for French skincare brand Dr Sebagh, whose four-step Pigmentation Kit offers brilliant value. Containing the iconic Pure Vitamin C Powder Cream, Deep Exfoliating Mask, Serum Repair and Vitamin C Brightening Primer SPF15, it’s everything you need to prevent and fade discolouration, leaving skin glowing instead. £120; drsebagh.com

Bobbi Brown’s Jones Road has launched a Shimmer Face Oil in time for summer. The lightweight multi-tasker comes in four shades and can be used as a blush, highlighter or bronzer for an all-over glow, while its blend of nine nourishing oils give skin an instant hydration hit. Radiance in a bottle. £29; jonesroadbeauty.com

Saving FaceBEAUTY AT BROWNS

charlottetilbury.com

Charlotte Tilbury has added to her ever-popular Pillow Talk collection (one product is sold every ten seconds) with Pillow Talk Party - four new products designed to take makeup from day to night and give a party-ready glow. The new range comes in the softest pearlescent, dusky pink and gold hues and includes the Multi-Glow Highlighter (£36); the iconic Push-Up Lashes! Mascara in berry-brown (£25); and a shimmering eyeshadow pencil for added sparkle (£19).

Off-White is the latest fashion house to branch into beauty with the launch of its new inclusive line, vibrantcreativeConceptualisedPaperwork.byitslatedirectorVirgilAblohandreleasedposthumously,theageless,genderlesscollectioncomprisesfour‘Solution’fragrances,six‘Imprint’solidpigmentcrayonsforfaceandbody,andhalfadozen‘ColorMatter’nailpolishes-alldesignedasatoolkitforself-expressionandtoinspirecreativity.

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ON PAPER

London fashion boutique Browns has branched into beauty. A curated edit of more than 90 brands is now available online - spanning skincare, makeup, hair, fragrance and men’s grooming - all chosen for their conscious, clean and inclusive credentials. In addition, Browns Brook Street and Browns East will play host to a series of residencies that will see in-demand facialists, makeup artists and nail technicians offer express treatments created just for the department store. brownsfashion.com

off—white.com

LIFE SOUL&

T

While prevention has always been a major factor in our skincare routine - the idea being that we protect our skin from external aggressors and dehydration so it will stay youthful and radiant longer - we should also apply this idea to our hair. After all, our scalp is skin, so why should it remain an afterthought? This is something trichologists have been telling us for years: if we have a healthy scalp environment - and guard it against free radicals, water and

My Beauty Glossary

The SKINiFICATION of NEXT-GEN HAIRCARE

raditionally, haircare products have been seen as functionalthey cleanse, they condition… The focus has always been on the end result, whether that’s imparting shine or smoothing cuticles. But it makes perfect sense that, as skincare has evolved and we’re paying more attention to what exactly we’re putting on and into our bodies, the same should go for hair. Welcome to the skinification of haircare. It can’t be a coincidence that this comes at a time when the conversation around women’s hair issues is gathering pace. Hair loss and thinning are of particular concern, with many possible causes - long Covid, stress, hormones and perimenopause, as well as possible deficiencies of zinc, iron and vitamins. Other problems range from dry and damaged to dull and lifeless hair, all of which need to be addressed.

With hair and scalp health an increasingly hot topic, ALESSANDRA STEINHERR shares the new wave of skincare-haircare hybrids for healthier, stronger, glossier locks

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ThecellulartechnologyComplex)FactorTFC8transformative(Triggerforrenewal.rangeispacked

And so the active ingredients, nutrients and soothing botanicals you might more typically find in your moisturiser or face oil are increasingly making an appearance in hair products. Hyaluronic acid, salicylic acid, lactic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C, UV filters… all are now coming into play to help keep the scalp hydrated, supple and clear. We are also seeing a shift in the different haircare products available. Where once we might have felt we’d gone the extra mile by applying a weekly hair mask, there’s a wealth of newgen, high-tech formulations available - from serums and scrubs to supplementation - to nurture and protect our scalp and strands.

Now the luxury skincare brands are turning their attention to our hair, repurposing their scientific knowhow and skincaregrade formulas to address root to tip. The most exciting recent launch has to be Bader,AugustinuswhoseThe Hair Collection - a conditioner,shampoo, leavein hair treatment, scalp treatment and hair oil - is powered by Bader’s

brand Omorovicza has also branched into haircare, its mineral-rich formulations found in both its Revitalising Scalp Mask (£57), a pre-shampoo treatment that harnesses the power of its famous detoxifying Moor Mud to draw out impurities, and a Scalp Reviver (£69), a few drops of which works wonders to refresh and revive the scalp. The Ordinary’s haircare line is formulated with a similarly skincare-minded, scientific approach. The no-nonsense beauty brand has recently launched three new additions to the collection, including the Sulphate 4% Cleanser for Body and Hair (£6.80). The milder sulphate content means it’s super gentle on skin and hair, though this doesn’t in any way detract from its efficacy when removing product build-up.

BEAUTY & WELLNESS

with amino acids and vitamins, including super-soothing vitamin B5, to fortify the follicles, reduce shedding and boost volume.

OMOROVICZA Revitalising Scalp Mask

AUGUSTINUS BADER The Hair Collection

BARBARA STURM Molecular Hair & Scalp Collection

collagen loss, for example - it surely follows that we will have vibrant, shiny hair. In truth, it makes as much sense to have a dedicated haircare routine as you would a skincare regimen - something that’s not been lost on haircare brands.

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THE ORDINARY Sulphate 4% Cleanser for Body and Hair

Dr Barbara Sturm has applied her nurturing, sciencebacked skincare principles to a Molecular Hair & Scalp Collection that targets specific hair needs and concerns. There’s Anti-Aging to restore, Anti-Hair Fall for strength, and Balancing, which is calming and anti-itch, as well as a hydrating conditioner and hair mask. Again, the idea is that it all starts from the roots, with nutrients, antioxidants and plant extracts working to balance the scalpHungarianmicrobiome.skincare

Haircare is, without doubt, catching up with skincare, and there are a wealth of next-gen, high-tech products to work into your routine for thicker, healthier, glossier hair. Turn the page for my edit of the most effective hair and scalp formulas to help you get to the root of your concerns.

The power products you need for your healthiest hair yet HaircareSkincareMeets

Nourishing the scalp is key to supporting healthy regrowth, and a hair serum can deliver the humectants, actives and nutrients to do so, as well as remedying dry ends and adding lustre to coarse strands. The newly launched Guerlain Abeille Royale Scalp & Hair Youth Oil-in-Serum (£108) harnesses the natural ingredients from honey to repair the hair fibre, while simultaneously restoring softness and vitality Hair Rituel by Sisley Revitalizing Fortifying Serum For The Scalp (£150) has a lightweight, non-greasy texture, bringing together vitamin peptide, a complex of zinc, copper and magnesium, plant-based extracts and proteins. You only need a couple of drops to soothe the scalp and add sheen to hair Ranavat Fortifying Hair Serum (£70) is a beautiful multi-hyphenate. Its nourishing blend of oils and plant extracts, such as amla, jasmine and sunflower, combine to manage breakage, keep hair supple and strong and the scalp healthy.

SERUMS

OILS

For centuries, women have been practising the ancient ritual of Ayurvedic hair oiling, using natural ingredients - plants, herbs and spices - to promote hair growth. Plus, the act of massaging the oil into the scalp improves microcirculation and stimulates the cells of the hair follicles. Fable & Mane is a brand based around ancient Indian beauty and their Holi Roots Hair Oil (£29) is gorgeous. The pre-wash elixir contains an active blend of holistic plant roots, including strengthening ashwagandha, and dashmool to encourage blood flow around the scalp. JVN Hair Complete Pre-Wash Scalp Oil (£24) is another oil I love. Enriched with ultra-hydrating hemisqualane, it’s ideal for those with itchiness and flakiness. Charlotte Mensah Manketti Hair Oil (£17) is for afro/mixed and all curly hair types, its unique blend of manketti nut and ximenia oils working to tame frizz, bring shine to dehydrated and damaged hair and nurture the scalp.

HYDRATION HEROES

Hair becomes weaker and duller with age (UV rays and heated hair tools also play their part), which, in turn, can make it dry, brittle and more prone to breakage, and leave your scalp dry and itchy. Your first step should be L’Huile de Leonor Greyl (£28.80), a beautiful pre-shampoo treatment for dry, processed hair that gives an instant hydration hit. Shu Uemura Art of Hair Ultimate Reset Extreme Repair Shampoo (£20.95) restores moisture levels with coconut oil, and adds strength and resilience to fragile, weak hair. Finish off with Kérastase Chroma Absolu Masque Chroma Filler (£37.60), which is specifically aimed at sensitised or damaged colour-treated hair and is great for split ends. The rich, creamy formula is enriched with lactic acid, which gently exfoliates and seals the surface of the hair to reduce frizz and boost shine.

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When you notice more strands than normal in the plughole or on your brush, it is scary. My fundamental advice: don’t self-diagnose. There are many reasons behind hair loss and thinning. It could be due to Covid, stress, hormones or a lack of vitamins (iron deficiency is a particular culprit). Depending on the cause, you will need a treatment plan, so I would recommend going to a trichologist in the first instance. Philip Kingsley in Mayfair is the most reputed. The good news is that for women, most of the time there is a solution. Doing a blood test to establish what you might be lacking and taking strategic supplements is a good place to start. But do remember, as with all supplementation, you need to give it time. Augustinus Bader The Hair Revitalizing Complex ($125) capsules are packed with scalp superfoods including ashwagandha root for improving circulation and saw palmetto to balance hormone levels. The Nue Co Growth Phase (£55) is a daily supplement that’s a blend of amino acids, adaptogens, essential minerals, micronutrients and vitamins, designed to nourish, calm and fasttrack growth, while their Supa_Thick Topical Scalp Supplement (£35) is a serum to reduce shedding. Another topical product is Virtue Flourish Density Booster (£46), a nutrient-infused spray you apply directly to the scalp to stimulate follicles. The Manta Healthy Hair Brush (£25) is an anti-breakage essential designed to glide through hair while causing minimal damage to the hair shaft.

Every now and then, the scalp needs a detox. Using products that are too heavy or rich, exposure to pollution - especially in an urban environment - and washing our hair in hard water, which has high levels of damaging minerals, can leave a greasy build-up on hair that you can’t shift. This can clog follicles and sebaceous glands, leading to scalp irritation. Start with Ameliorate Deep Cleansing Hair & Scalp Mask (£25), a detoxifying pre-cleansing treatment that removes impurities, while also rebalancing and nourishing the scalp. Sunday Riley Cleanse Rinse Clarifying Scalp Serum (£42) is a rinse-off serum infused with glycolic and salicylic acids to cut through product remnants, dirt and oils, while niacinamide stimulates hair growth. If the build-up is bad, then I would recommend a scalp exfoliant - though, personally, I would only suggest using it once a week. Christophe Robin Cleansing Purifying Scrub (£42) is one of the originals and best, and is particularly good for sensitive or oily scalps. When it comes to washing your hair, Ouai Detox Shampoo (£24) is a once-a-week clarifying shampoo with apple cider vinegar to deeply cleanse and tamarind seed extract to refresh and hydrate the hair and scalp.

The two most common hair issues and how to take care of them DilemmaMane

The

HAIR LOSS & THINNING

PRODUCT BUILD-UP & POLLUTION

BEAUTY & WELLNESS 61THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM

If this happens, you need to rebuild the barrier. The stratum corneum is composed of neatly arranged skin cells and between these are layers of lipids - cholesterol, fatty acids and ceramideswhich are essential for skin health, so look for products that contain a combination of these. Here is my edit of the new skin barrier saviours.

Replenishing Balm, £65

Barrier Recovery Cream Balm, £80

The Ultimate Soothing Cream, £215 Make this your all-round SOS cream. It has a thick, rich texture and works like a moisturiser to rehydrate, calm and smooth compromised skin.

An overnight bandage for sensitised skin. This is a beautifully formulated product that protects from urban aggressors and improves moisture levels.

A rich salve that is ideal for excessively dry, irritated, tight skin; packed with vitamin-rich botanicals, use it day or night over a moisturiser.

My Beauty Glossary

When the barrier function is weakenedwhich can happen in the warmer months due to heat and sun damage, or from blasting skin with super-strong active ingredients and over-microdermabrasion - you get transepidermal water loss, which can lead to skin problems ranging from flakiness, tightness and redness to atopic dermatitis and eczema.

Building Barriers

A super hydrating and nourishing daily moisturiser that you can mix and match with your oil and/or serum for a softer, more supple complexion.

REN

A restorative, intensive overnight treatment to accelerate the regeneration of skin cells, turbocharge collagen production and improve elasticity.

T

JORDAN SAMUEL SKIN

CULTURED BIOMECARE

Resilience Facial Oil, £46

This has a prebiotic action to support a healthy microbiome, while oils amplify collagen and lipid production. It’s perfect post-cleanse or over a moisturiser.

After Baume, £25

U BEAUTY

A lightweight, non-greasy formula made up of sootheingredientsmicrobiome-friendlytocombatdrynessandirritation.

ALLIES OF SKIN

AUGUSTINUS BADER

Evercalm Barrier Support Elixir, £44

GLOSSIER

Beauty Director Alessandra Steinherr shares her favourite new skincare essentials to protect, repair and restore

outermost layer of the epidermis. See it as a protective shield, not only preventing water evaporation but also keeping allergens, irritants and bacteria out.

Moisture Recovery Cream, £34

The Barrier Bioactive Treatment, £186

A moisture barrier recovery cream that’s both rich and non-comedogenic, containing regenerative plant-based ingredients and essential fatty acids.

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FURTUNA SKIN

The freshest new fragrances to spritz this season

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Eau de Parfum, 100ml, £235

CAROLINA HERRERA

SUNSHINESCENTS

True Oud

Inspired by Carolina Herrera’s adventures in the heart of the Middle East, this new unisex fragrance encapsulates the essence of evocative oud. Exploring the often overlooked floral qualities of oud, this scent combines sustainably grown versions of the ingredient with sandalwood, apricot-like Osmanthus blossom, saffron and freesia. The result is a woody and spicy fragrance that is lifted with a hint of floral lightness, capturing an incense-like aroma. harrods.com

Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT

A burst of botanical freshness, thanks to citrussy top notes of lemon and bergamot, is layered with spicy pink berries and black pepper and an aromatic heart of cedarwood, rosemary and shiso, the earthy and slightly spicy herb native to the mountains of China.

Eau de Parfum, 100ml, £240

The newest addition to Gucci’s haute perfumery line The Alchemist’s Garden, this is a deep woody, spicy fragrance. Created by Gucci’s Creative Director Alessandro Michele and Master Perfumer Alberto Morillas, here the top note is black pepper, its dry spiciness and richness tempered by the slight sweetness of incense and rounded off with the softness of cedarwood.

guerlain.com

For its new limited-edition collection, British perfume house Jo Malone has sought to capture the scent of a Sardinian summer with two new fragrances, Sea Daffodil and Bitter Mandarin, and a reissue of 2014’s Silk Blossom. Sea Daffodil evokes the scent of sea-washed pebbles, with the natural vanilla scent of the flower combined with bright yellow mandarin and warmed up with ylang-ylang and sandalwood.

jomalone.co.uk

CARINE ROITFELD

Carine

Eau de Toilette, 125ml, £111

acquadiparma.com

JO MALONE

Eau de Parfum, 100ml, £100

The French luxury house celebrates women embracing their wild side for its latest addition to the Soleil family. The fragrance - a new formula that utilises sustainable, natural ingredients - takes inspiration from animal prints. And so you have a woody accord at its base, lifted by a heart of jasmine sambac and saff ron, while top notes of bergamot, juicy pear and ginger combine for a warm, sensuous ﬁ nish.

Eau de Parfum, 90ml, £190 Carine Roitfeld’s Carine is a portrait-perfume, from the khaki packaging (the French fashion editor’s favourite colour) to its woody floral fragrance designed to imbue a bold, sensual aura. For this, master perfumer Dominique Ropion has taken the powerful bouquet of rose and jasmine, combining it with top notes of pink pepper and a spicy base of patchouli and cashmeran harrods.com

LALIQUE Soleil Vibrant

lalique.com

GUCCI Love at Your Darkest

Sea Daﬀodil

Cologne, 100ml, £112

gucci.com

This light and bright cologne is intended to inspire conﬁdence, joy and energy.

Calabrian neroli takes centre stage in the latest addition to Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria fragrance collection. Its floral green aroma is balanced with the slight smokiness of vetiver, the freshness of basil and rounded off with a ﬁ g accord, all designed to encapsulate the natural beauty of the sundrenched island of Ischia in the Bay of Naples.

BEAUTY & WELLNESS

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ACQUA DI PARMA Colonia C.L.U.B.

GUERLAIN Nerolia Vetiver

Eau de Cologne, 50ml, £84

Eau de Toilette, 100ml, £49

Rose BlossomGoldeaDelight

CELINE Rimbaud

Eau de Parfum, 50ml, £99

BULGARI

Eau de Parfum, 50ml, £127

Celine’s newest fragrance is an ode to Arthur Rimbaud – the visionary 19th-century poet discovered by creative director Hedi Slimane as a teenager – plus a generation of young people photographed by the designer over the past 30 years. The genderless scent captures the chapter between childhood and adulthood by mixing nostalgic lavender and musk with contemporary notes of neroli, orris butter, wheat and vanilla.

When The Rain Stops

Mimosa

Building on the success of the original Rose Goldea Eau de Parfum, Bvlgari’s Rose Goldea Blossom Delight is a softer, sweeter iteration. Its floral scent centres around infused rose petals, rosebuds and lily of the valley, tempered by papaya and jasmine and a base of white musk and amber. The result is a fragrance that’s light, sparkling and feminine. bulgari.com

Rose D’Amalﬁ

Blossom Delight

De Los Santos

Eau de Parfum, 100ml, £195

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Continuing the Swedish brand’s practice of creating perfumes inspired by travels, memories and experiences, Byredo’s latest release focuses on the traditions of Día de los Muertos and All Saints’ Day. Capturing the fleeting essence of these celebrations, the scent balances soft musks, amber and incense with iris root and mirabelle. These are pierced by notes of crisp sage, a cleansing herb traditionally burnt to help unwanted spirits move on. byredo.com

Honeysuckleceline.com

Eau de Parfum, 50ml, £178

This joyful scent is designed to capture the feeling of the sun bursting through rain clouds - a symbol for happier times ahead. The fresh smell of springtime rain is captured with a combination of aquatic accord and patchouli essence, while the warmth of the rays is echoed in the sweetness of rose and the slight spice of pink pepper. Pine needle, jasmine and a hint of moss give the scent its earthy, deep undertones. selfridges.com

One of the three fragrances in the Private Rose Garden Collection, Rose D’Amalﬁ channels the sunlit sensuality of Italy’s Amalﬁ Coast through a seductive blend of bergamot, spicy baies roses and delicate heliotrope. Together, they create a soft, alluring springtime scent destined to make you dream of Italian adventures.

TOM FORD

MAISON

Eau de Parfum, 75ml, £93

HoneysuckleMediterraneanMimosa

tomford.co.uk

Taking inspiration from summer holidays on the Mediterranean coast, Aerin Lauder’s light, effervescent fragrance has sweetscented mimosa, honeysuckle and rose at its heart. Citrussy top notes of grapefruit, bergamot and blackcurrant bud, and a base of tuberose, vetiver and moss, imbue the essence of a lush, fragrant garden on the French Riviera. esteelauder.co.uk

REPLICA BY MARGIELAMAISON

contemporary notes of neroli,

BYREDO

Luxury perfume atelier the House of Creed takes inspiration from the elegance and refinement of a dancer for its new fragrance, Wind Flowers

Creed Boutique, 99 Mount Street, Mayfair, W1K 2TF creedfragrances.co.uk

t’s been more than five years in the making, but the House of Creed’s Wind Flowers has finally come into bloom. Taking inspiration from a dancer’s poise, elegance and strength, master perfumer Olivier Creed has created a floral fragrance that’s at once effervescent, fresh and light.

Dancing onAir

Top notes of sweet jasmine, Tunisian orange blossom and peach set a soft, dusky tone, underpinned by jasmine flower, tuberose petals and rose, while a base of sandalwood, creamy praline and musk adds depth. The modern, elegantly shaped bottle has a delicate silver bow at its neck - the perfect finishing touch to what Olivier refers to as the new “Queen” of Creed’s female fragrance portfolio.

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Experience it for yourself at the Creed flagship boutique on Mayfair’s Mount Street, where experts can take you on an olfactory journey through the House’s high-quality, hand-blended scents and guests can explore the 260-year history of Creed, including its myriad of royal connections.

To donate £10 to Choose Love’s emergency Ukraine appeal text CHOOSELOVE 10 or to donate £20 text CHOOSELOVE 20 to 70460 Texts will cost the donation amount plus one standard network rate message, and you’ll be opting into hearing more from us. If you would like to donate but don’t wish to hear more from us, please text CHOOSELOVENOINFO (followed by amount) instead. Choose Love is a restricted fund under the auspices of Prism the Gift fund Charity No: 1099682

The Twenty Two in Mayfair has arrived - and how. Set in a handsome stone mansion on Grosvenor Square, interiors take their cue from 18thcentury Paris: jewel-toned walls, rich velvet furnishings and hand-blown chandeliers come into play across the 31 rooms, private members’ club and restaurant. The latter, open to everyone, offers a highly seasonal menu combining Mediterranean flair with modern British ingredients. the22.london

DOUBLE FAYRE

Tasting Notes

FAMILY AFFAIR

The new openings and places to know across the capital this season

Myanmar Magic

In excellent news, Shoreditch’s Burmese restaurant Lahpet now has a second address in Covent Garden. Become acquainted with Myanmar’s captivating cuisine via the eponymous pickled tea-leaf (‘lahpet’) salad, mohinga and delicious fritters in every shape and form. To drink, make it a craft beer or kumquat spritz.

BY GEORGE

21 Slingsby Place, St Martin’s Courtyard, Covent Garden, WC2 lahpet.co.uk

Restaurant group Tattu, so successful in Manchester, Edinburgh, Birmingham and Leeds, makes its London debut this April with a ritzy new restaurant atop Tottenham Court Road’s Outernet development. Start with sake sours ahead of Tattu’s unique take on modern Chinese cuisine. Think lobster toast, caramel soy beef fillet, and bubble-tea cheesecake. Denmark Place, Covent Garden, WC2 tattu.co.uk

Raise The Bar

We loved what JKS Restaurants did with Chelsea’s Cadogan Arms. Now the company has turned its attention to The George in Fitzrovia.

55 Great Portland Street, Fitzrovia, W1 thegeorge.london

Compiled by HILARY ARMSTRONG

Northern Exposure

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Upstairs at The George boasts an English sparkling wine bar and menus by two Michelin star chef James Knappett. Pub grub is of the highest order: Scottish langoustine scampi, venison hotpot and Yorkshire rhubarb crumble.

Mireille and Yasmina Hayek, the motherdaughter duo behind Beirut’s acclaimed Em Sherif, have opened an elegant outpost at Harrods. Their food represents traditional Lebanese cuisuine at its most refined. Fattoush salad with pomegranate molasses is their signature, but don’t overlook the wagyu hummus or smoky, creamy muhammara. 87-135 Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, SW3 emsherifrestaurant.co.uk

FOOD

12 New Quebec Street, Marylebone, W1 roketsu.co.uk

BUBALA-ING UP

HELLO YELLOW

Always ahead of its time, Sketch has done it again with an audacious redesign of its Gallery restaurant by architect India Mahdavi and artist Yinka Shonibare on the eve of its 20th anniversary. Out goes the iconic pink; in comes a warm solar yellow, with Senegalese fabrics, copper wallpaper by De Gournay, and a site-specific installation by Shonibare that repositions Sketch as a celebration of African culture and its legacy. Book now to see for yourself.

There are just ten seats at the counter of chef Daisuke Hayashi’s debut restaurant, Roketsu in Marylebone, and they are in high demand. Hayashi is the protégé of legendary kaiseki master Yoshihiro Murata of the three Michelin star Kikunoi in Kyoto, and his style of cuisine –traditional, complex, intricate, almost poetic – is nigh-on impossible to ﬁ nd in London. The menu is £190; wine and sake pairings, from £95.

Beloved Shoreditch vegetarian restaurant Bubala opens in Soho this April, having landed the old Vasco & Piero’s Pavilion site on Poland Street (worry not: V&P has relocated, not closed). Chef Helen Graham is one to watch: her meatfree Middle Eastern cooking feels so right for now. Look forward to Yemeni malawach with stracciatella, kalamata olives and smoked aubergine honey, and hispi cabbage with mandarin and ras el hanout ponzu.

9 Conduit Street, Mayfair, W1 sketch.london

KYOTO STORY

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15 Poland Street, Soho, W1 bubala.co.uk

WHAT TO DRINK: Aged, seasonal and limited-edition sakes

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name, is not a dish I typically enjoy, but this version is knockout, as is Ibérico secreto blackened on the robata. Even when I reach the point where I can eat no more, I find myself spooning wagyu and bone-marrow fried rice straight out of the serving bowl; scraping the white miso sou�lé bowl clean. The sushi, dainty Edomae style, is excellent too, though some may be put off by the garnish of ants. Talk about eccentric. This ‘eccentric izakaya’ is like no izakaya I’ve ever experienced. Eccentric doesn’t cover it. Hedonistic, opulent, dramatic, fanciful, fun – now that’s more like it.

London’s best new culinary openings, from haute patisserie in Knightsbridge to “farm to table” in Mayfair

So you could say I’m taken aback by just how good the food is. The cocktails, I knew, would be something special (The Aubrey boasts London’s first ‘omakase’ cocktail bar). The Mort d’Artur, with Chartreuse, shochu and clarified coconut, is a sublime drop, as it should be at £19 (I nearly went the same Aubrey

66 Knightsbridge, SW1 mandarinoriental.com/london spinach The 72

Restaurant REVIEWS

MEAL FOR TWO (with wine): £150 SIGNATURE DISHES: Crab korokke; charcoal karaage; white miso sou�lé

Restaurant editor Hilary Armstrong samples

Table Talk way as Artur when I saw the prices. The least expensive wine is £50). The first indication that the mystery chef is a culinary genius comes with the gomae, a spinach and sesame salad I’ve eaten often in simple Japanese restaurants. This one is silky, positively luxurious. Leeks, red miso and shiso vinegar, another humble vegetable dish, hits the same heights. Crab croquettes, here with soy bechamel, and charcoal chicken karaage are izakaya classics done with flair. This being Knightsbridge, there are haute ingredients galore, just the way the hedgies and high-rollers, footballers and financiers like it. Saikyo miso sablefish, black cod by another

ntering The Aubrey, the ‘eccentric izakaya’ at the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, through a traditional Japanese noren curtain, I struggle to recall Bar Boulud, the Daniel Boulud place that was here before. Design studio BradyWilliams (Fischer’s, Anya Cafe) has transformed it into a labyrinthine warren of woodpanelled rooms, not one square inch unadorned with tassels, gold and theJaponisme.century-inspired19th-Thisissurestsignyet of the direction in which luxury dining is going. Out goes the named chef, in come the DJs, white-jacketed bartenders and designers (the chef doesn’t even get a namecheck on the press release). It isn’t so much restaurantgoing as immersive theatre.

MEAL FOR TWO (with wine): £120

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WHAT TO DRINK: The Affair cocktail with yuzu sake and limoncello

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ITAKU

110 Great Portland Street, Fitzrovia, W1 itaku.co.uk

A perfect example is the fresh pasta cappelletti stuffed with Amalfi lemon-scented ricotta, which comes not but in miso. The signature dish of Sicilian red prawns, Périgord tru�le and ponzu is Itaku all over. “Carpe diem”, it seems to say: who knows what will happen tomorrow so better have red prawns and tru�le today. Even the pasta and tomato sauce is “extra”, involving four different types of tomatoes and the plating skills of an abstract artist. My seared tuna needs a hotter pan to get a nice Cannes tan, but it’s light and healthy, even if the good work is undone by a side of fried potato millefoglie with spicy Kewpie mayo. For dessert, I have a deconstructed tiramisu, a version of which I had at the Baglioni. The 2022 iteration is more minimalist, with a cute “Arctic roll” of coffee, but it’s a little clunkily executed. Regular tiramisu is enjoying a

taku’s owner is celebrity restaurateur JeanBernard FernandezVersini. The name’s a mouthful, which is possibly why, six years later, he’s still best known as “Cheryl’s ex”. It's invidious to dredge up old news, but I can’t pretend I haven’t found myself sucked into tabloid headlines from yesteryear in the name of “research” and scrolling through Instagram to see “JB” in Dubai, Positano, St Barths, Miami and Ibiza. He’s so jet set, he could have walked off the pages of a Jackie Collins novel. That said, on the London restaurant scene, celebrity sparkle only gets you so far. Here, he’s just another businessman trying his chances in the most competitive city and in the most challenging of times. There were CosyopenFernandez-VersinirumourswouldaLondonbranchofBox,hisCannesFilm

SIGNATURE DISHES: Sicilian red prawns, Périgord tru�le, ponzu, sea aster; Itaku tiramisu

Fernandez-Versini has partnered with Italian chef Ivan Simeoli, formerly of Massimo Bottura’s Osteria Francescana, The Wallace Collection, and the Baglioni Hotel. As culinary crossovers go, thedashi,intoburratasashimi,cleartooJapanese-ItalianSimeoli’sfusionisn’toffthewall.There’sacommonality:crudoandpiciandudon,evenandtofu.SimeolileanstheItalian,introducingmiso,sakeandsoyforpunchyumamitheybring.

Bar, not only makes exquisite drinks but, like the best bartenders, has a keen eye and listening ear. The Madame Butterfly, a variation on a French 76 tinted palest lilac with butterfly pea flower tea, is a carefully balanced drink with impeccable Instafriendly good looks.

Festival pop-up restaurant and club, frequented by Leonardo DiCaprio, Naomi Campbell and Paris Hilton. Instead, he took that to New Delhi and came up with Itaku for London. A slim, skylit spot, it’s a surprisingly modest debut. Too intimate for full-scale “clubstaurant” status, but nevertheless somewhere for a big night out. You could get away with jeans, or you could give your Y2K micro-mini a spin. Either way, you’ll want to look sharp for your selfie.

MEAL FOR TWO (with wine): £10-£270 SIGNATURE DISHES: Citron; Noisette; Scone ‘Trompe L’œil’

WHAT TO DRINK: Champagne Laurent-Perrier

very clever. Best of all is the Paris-Brest, which, matryoshka-like, has a mini choux bun at its heart. The famous Citron is a sharp, palate-cleansing note on which to finish. It’s testament to Grolet’s light touch that after five desserts, coffee and a glass of Champagne (all included in the £90 bill), we still feel light on our feet.

Though ‘cake’ seems too prosaic a term for Grolet’s miniature masterpieces, his famous trompe l’œil “fruits” that cut open to reveal layers of jelly, ganache, mousse. It’s a witty touch to decorate the café tables with actual fruit, and as evocative a signifier of the season as the spring buds and narcissi that fill theInvases.honour of Grolet’s arrival, The Berkeley has created a new all-day café and boutique underspeckledwithsignaturespopularà-Portea(Meanwhile,ritualmenugreattastingGroletatpolishedsitwheretheboucléandcaféhasdesignerKnightsbridge.overlookingFrenchRémiTessieroutfittedtheingold,marble,scallopedcreamtocontrastwithfuturistic‘pastrylab’,exquisitepastrieslikepreciousjewelsunderglasscloches.It’shere,eightseatsaroundacounter,thatserveshismuch-hyped£135menu.WhileIhaveheardonlythingsaboutit,it’stheGoûterwe’vecomefor:anewteatimeexclusivetoTheBerkeley.thehotel’siconicPrêt-afternoontearemainsasasever.)TheGoûtermenuoffersfiveinpetiteform,openingVanillaFlower,itsdelicatepetalswithvanilla,andNoisette,whosegoldenshellhidecaramel and esquecreamTrompeNext,hazelnutetherealmousse.aSconeL’œil,withinsideascone-exterior.Verycute;

T

Wilton Place, Knightsbridge, SW1 the-berkeley.co.uk at The Berkeley

he nattily dressed doorman at the entrance to The Berkeley in Knightsbridge tips us a wink on arrival. “He’s very approachable, you know, if you want a selfie.” The ‘he’ to whom he refers is Cédric Grolet, the reigning king of Parisian patisserie and ‘World’s Best Pastry Chef’, whose first patisserie outside France has just opened at the hotel. We thank our man for the intel even though (don’t tell Grolet’s 2.3 million Instagram followers) we’re not too bothered about selfies. We’re strictly here for the cake.

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Cédric Grolet

The Goûter and Counter menus are once a year, if not once in a lifetime, experiences. I’d make the case that it’s actually the boutique offering that’s more exciting. London lags behind Paris

in the patisserie league, so it’s a joy to find world-class haute patisserie and viennoiserie for as little as fiver. It’s this accessibility that makes the room so vital, so fun. There are hip hotel guests taking tea, shoppers grabbing croissants, locals collecting orders (the larger cakes, from £35, are highly desirable) and children tucking into pistachio cookies. This, for me, is modern luxury in action. A child’s felt-tipped drawing pinned above the coffee machine says it all: ‘Bienvenue à Londres’.

f these walls could talk! Everybody has a story from Hoi Polloi at the Ace Hotel, so they say. Hoi Polloi may no longer be with us, but in its place is Goddard & Gibbs, one of six new restaurants and bars within the Lore Group’s One Hundred Shoreditch. Sneaking in for an early preview, we see the clear connection with what came before (the designers have taken the correct, green decision to keep what they could) while enjoying new additions like the terrazzo-clad wine bar, seafood hatch, fullheight windows, and barkingmad abstract sculpture in colourpopping ‘Mr Happy’ yellow.

GODDARD & GIBBS

The chef, Tom Moore (new to me) comes not from some hip east London joint, but from Mayfair’s Lansdowne Club. I take that as a good sign because it’s in private club kitchens that our island’s comfort-food traditions are upheld. I note a fish pie, prawn cocktail, and treacle sponge on the menu, alongside exotic mussels with coconut, sea bream ceviche, and a fillet-offish burger with kimchi. For obvious reasons, the crispy, garlicky hake Kyiv with brown shrimp butter is proving a hit. Other dishes that impress us mightily are oysters with Vietnamese dressing (soy, ginger, chilli), New Englandstyle clam pizza pie, and skate wing lavished with XO butter. But, between you and me, the thing my friend and I have been messaging each other about ever since is the wickedly good fried doughnut with peanut, malt ice cream and miso caramel. Wine-wise, there’s plenty by the glass and en carafe with range and depth sub-£50. Don’t forget to come early (or leave late) in order to make time for a drink at the Seed Library, the groovy 70s basement bar from Ryan ‘Mr Lyan’ Chetiyawardana.

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MEAL FOR TWO (with wine): £240

have to schlep west for fruits de mer. Now we have G&G.

MEAL FOR TWO (with wine): £90 SIGNATURE DISHES: Hake Kyiv; sea bream ceviche; hot shells for two

15 Berkeley Street, Mayfair, W1 ilborrotuscanbistro.co.uk

IL BORRO

WHAT TO DRINK: Il Borro ‘Alessandro dal Borro’ Syrah Toscana

The ‘farm to table’ talk is unexpected on the uncultivated land of Mayfair, but it is fully reflective of the kind of simple, open-

It’s a fun place “inspired by English fishing villages and seaside towns”. This USP has deep potential, particularly in the East End with its proud history of shellfish stalls and oysterhouses. Not that east London eaters such as me need the narrative hook; it’s long been a source of anguish that, this close to Billingsgate Market, we still

TUSCAN BISTRO LONDON Restaurant REVIEWS

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hearted hospitality I’ve often experienced in Italy’s wine regions. But for a few of the usual Mayfair wallet-whackers, (wagyu beef, caviar etc), this is Italian food like it used to be. We have pappa al pomodoro, a tomato and bread soup emblematic of ‘cucina povera’; if there’s a nonna out back cooking it, I wouldn’t be surprised. Panzanella, here a green salad with tomatoes, isn’t tipico by the measure of the austere version at rival Tuscan Trattoria Brutto, but I doubt we’ll settle that debate today. We’re on surer footing with pasta, thick coils of al dente pici with a gentle tomato sauce. We have room, just, for peposo, a beef stew slow-cooked to tenderness. To accompany it, a drop of organic Sangiovese from the estate. The service is old-school too. Our waiter Federico indulges in some light silver service, a dying art. In 21st-century London, his ministrations verge on too much – we could quite easily help ourselves –yet isn’t it nice to be looked after? Our fellow diners, a fascinating mix of perfect couples, captains of industry and proud Italians, wouldn’t settle for anything less.

SIGNATURE DISHES: Panzanella; bistecca alla fiorentina

”M waiter.crieswelcome!”adame,a

WHAT TO DRINK: Perilla G&Ts at the Seed Library

100 Shoreditch High Street, Shoreditch, E1 goddardandgibbs.com

I can hear the warmth and the exclamation mark in the greeting and am glad of it. We’ve picked the worst day of the year to come to Il Borro – long day, tube strike, driving rain – and we just want to feel good again. We’re in the right place: Il Borro (on the old Nobu Berkeley site in Mayfair) exists in a parallel universe where la vita is never anything but dolce. It hails from the house of Ferragamo, the legendary Italian luxury brand (Ferruccio Ferragamo, Salvatore’s son, is Il Borro’s chair). The Ferragamos bought Il Borro, their 3,200-acre Tuscan estate in 1993, and have since transformed it into a five-star destination with vineyards and an organic farm producing the wine, olive oil and vegetables used at their restaurants in Florence, Dubai, and now Mayfair.

hen storied Mayfair restaurant Langan’s Brasserie threw open its doors again late last year, its gleaming reimagining was the talk of the town. Upstairs at Langan’s - the new invite-only private members’ club on the restaurant’s first floor - ups the glamour still further. Behind a heavy velvet curtain, the decor is unashamedly opulent - seductive lighting and red-and-gold furnishings throughout see to that.

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Drink in the capital’s glittering cocktail scene at these buzzy openings New BarsThe

ccessing Sweeties via The Standard’s famous red pill exterior lift sets the tone for an evening of decadence. The hotel bar’s vibe is “new-wave glamour and glorious misbehaviour”, which translates across deep velvet sofas, mirrored tables and a six-foot antique phallic sculpture.

10 Argyle Street, King’s Cross, WC1

Here, it’s as much about post-work cocktails and Champagne as it is about dancing into the early hours beneath the giant glitterball. The Final Thursday of the Month party promises to be a showstopper. A specially designed menu offers all the Langan’s classics, including caviar and oysters, yellowfin tuna with truffle and yuzu, and filet mignon. This place is sleek, intimate and - above all - fun.

The cocktail menu - the work of mixologists Jack Sotti and Todd Austin - is served with an experimental twist, using natural mood-boosting ingredients and adaptogens. Will it be the Frothy Boi, with lacto-rhubarb, gin, raspberry, pink pepper and fermented amazake oats, or the Crystal Healing, a vivid blue concoction made with spirulina, pepper dulse seaweed distillate, bergamot and electrolyterich coconut ice?

Sweeties at The Standard

standardhotels.com

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With an ever-evolving line-up of top DJs spinning tunes on the FunktionOne sound system late into the night, expect WC1 meets Studio 54.

Upstairs at Langan’s Stratton Street, Mayfair, W1 langansbrasserie.com

onehundredshoreditch.com

ocktail legend Ryan Chetiyawardana (aka Mr Lyan) is back with a new venture, Seed Library, at east London’s One Hundred Shoreditch. The bar has a relaxed, neighbourhood feel, with soft lighting, bespoke furniture and panelled wood; walk-ins are very much encouraged.

La Goccia

1 Floral Street, Covent Garden, WC2

The Old Westminster Library, Great Smith Street, Westminster, SW1

othing sounds as enticing as an underground cocktail bar. And this 36-cover number, tucked beneath Vivek Singh’s celebrated restaurant, doesn’t disappoint. Designer Juliet Walmsley has drawn inspiration from an Indian bazaar - tables come trimmed in satin brass, tropical plants fill the room, and gold curtains conceal cosy corners.

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petershamnurseries.com

100 Shoreditch High Street, Shoreditch, E1

The short, frequently changing drinks list features inventive takes on old favourites, such as the Sancho Leaf Martini and the Perilla Gin & Tonic, alongside low-intervention wines and craft beers. Offering up a sanctuary from the hustle and bustle of Shoreditch, the opening marks a welcome return for Chetiyawardana to east London, the neighbourhood where he opened his first bar, White Lyan, in 2013.

Drinks-wise, mixologist Robin Honhold, formerly of Lyan, has put a spin on the classics. The Bellini gets an elegant makeover, infusing ginger vodka with apricot purée, spiced rose and prosecco, while the Lime Leaf Collins combines gin, lime leaf, lime and soda. The bar snacks are worth a visit alone, from tempura prawns to chicken tikka and cheese naan.

The seasonal cocktail menu has been inspired by the natural world, too, with the drinks list centred around botanicals, herbs and edible flowers. The Pear Tree blends rum with pear juice, tonka bean and cloves, while the Bitter Orange Blossom features zingy herbal notes from Aperol and amaro, with an added hint of smokiness from Mexican mezcal.

cinnamonclub.com

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The Cinnamon Club

Seed Library

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etersham Nurseries’ horticultural heritage runs deep here, from the spectacular bar, made from real leaves hand-dipped in bronze, to the handmade bar stools, their legs shaped like knobbly branches. The walls are lined with contemporary art from Petersham founder Francesco Boglione’s personal collection - a nice touch.

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T HE FIRST N A TURE IMMERSIVE WE L L BEING ISLAND RETRE A T I N T HE MALDIVES

Designed as a nature immersive wellbeing retreat with 68 private pool villas, the island’s wild forest remaining untouched, JOALI BEING offers personalised transformative programmes and unique transformational spaces, including hydrotherapy, movement, and sound healing experiences.

NEW HEIGHTS

With its stunning location on Grand Cayman’s Seven Mile Beach and Slim Aarons vibe, the recently opened Palm Heights hotel has garnered high praise. Not one to rest on its laurels, there are plans for a new Garden Club Spa and Athletics Club to open later this year. While the former will channel a tropical garden paradise with living walls and indoor/outdoor pools, the latter promises to be 10,000 square feet dedicated to holistic sports performance training. palmheights.com

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Fall for Lake Como’s charm, sail away to the Galápagos and go off-grid in Tanzania

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ITALIAN IDYLL

Sisters Jasmin and Oana Aristide have done a stunning job transforming a neoclassical mansion on the sun-drenched Greek island of Syros into Hotel Aristide. The nine rooms include three new plunge-pool suites, plus there’s a delightful rooftop restaurant - but it’s the art you’ll love, with a series of artist residencies taking place throughout the year. hotelaristide.com

Compiled by HARRIET COOPER

Travel Notes

ImagineHIDEAWAYISLANDHorizonshavingyourveryownprivatemarinereserve.Locatedoffthe east coast of Tanzania, Thanda Island is that place. Available on an exclusive-use basis - there’s one villa and two beach chalets for guests - days are spent diving with the resident biologist to spot dolphins, stingrays and sea turtles (you can also partake in conservation work), navigating the Indian Ocean on a traditional Arab dhow and recalibrating amid the tranquil gardens. Finish off with a seafood feast under the stars. Off-grid luxe at its finest. thandaisland.com

Lake Como has enchanted travellers for centuries with its beaches, gelato-hued resorts and historic palazzos. This June, one of the lake’s most spectacular private Passalacqua,homes,opens its doors as a 24-suite retreat. No detail has been overlooked in Sturm…treatmentscookingtakegardens.andthetransformation,itsacrossexquisiteinteriorssweepingterracedAddanauthenticonItalianhomeandspabyBarbara vita è bella GRECIANpassalacqua.it/enDREAM

New

MODERN CLASSIC

As of May, Aqua Mare will be the first superyacht to offer personalised itineraries around the Galápagos Islands. The new seven-suite vessel is a lesson in panache, with every onboard amenity you could possibly wish for. The 16-strong crew, including two naturalist guides, ensure that each of the twice-daily expeditions to explore the archipelago and its extraordinary wildlife is a memory maker. aquaexpeditions.com

Anything hotel group Oetker Collection (Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc, Le Bristol Paris, The Lanesborough…) turns its attention to is success guaranteed. In this case, they’ve partnered with the Reuben Brothers to reimagine the iconic Hotel la Palma in Capri. Opening in the summer, expect the 50-room-and-suite property to be a vision of elegance, with a rooftop restaurant, beach club, indulgent spa and newly built pool deck. oetkercollection.com

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As golden rays bathe the CITY OF LIGHT, there can be nowhere as romantic, especially if you stay in one of the city’s exquisite new hotels

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SpringtimeinParis

Wanderlust

Words HARRIET COOPER

GRANDEUR

A grand staircase, lined with royal portraits, sweeps guests up to ever more regal bedrooms, each one meticulously decorated in true-to-the-period fabrics, furniture, artworks and artefacts. Floors are Versailles parquet, the upholstery and wall hangings by Maison

It’s the extraordinary touches that make this place special - like the period uniforms worn by staff, which have been meticulously researched and made by the acclaimed Terre & Ciel Studio using more than a kilometre of fabric, 5,000 buttons and 120 metres of braid. Or the tables adorned with silver stands of Ladurée macarons. Or the exclusive ‘Miroir Majestueux’ treatment in the hotel’s Spa Valmont, which was inspired by the beauty rituals of Marie Antoinette herself.

ouis XIV’s Château de Versailles, which lies about 12 miles west of Paris, is famous the world over for its gilding, grandeur and gardens, which are truly a work of art. So when luxury hotel brand Airelles opens a 14-room-and-suite property in the storied palace’s grounds, expectations run high.

But the real crux - attention to detail aside - is that your stay includes exclusive after-hours access to the Trianon Domain, Palace of Versailles and the Orangery gardens, accompanied by a private guide. These daily tours, along with the use of boats and golf carts in the grounds, as well as breakfast, afternoon tea and minibar, are included in the room rate. La vie est belle at Airelles Château de Versailles Le Grand Contrôle

airelles.com FOR

BEST

Rooms start from €1,700, excluding a 14% destination fee

Airelles Château de Versailles Le Grand Contrôle Versailles, Île-de-France

Here, ceilings soar, crystal chandeliers glitter and gilt mirrors adorn the walls.

Pierre Frey. For a truly majestic stay, book Suite Necker with its triple-aspect views and magnificent four-poster bed, though every room comes with a dedicated butler, of course. With Alain Ducasse overseeing the menu (he has a staggering number of Michelin stars to his name), you’ll feast like royalty. Perhaps organic eggs or French toast to start the day, accompanied by views over the sun-dappled Orangery gardens. Lunch is a splendid affair, the likes of creamy lettuce soup with gold caviar followed by soufflé with verbena granita. Dinner is grander still, a seemingly endless stream of exquisite dome-covered dishes.

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The setting is Le Grand Contrôle, a building designed by the Sun King’s favourite architect, Jules HardouinMansart, in 1681, which became France’s ministry of finance during the reign of Louis XVI. It had fallen into disrepair, but four years of hard work and a staggering €50 million budget have seen it restored to its former 18th-century sumptuousness, under the eye of designer Christophe Tollemer.

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Cheval Blanc Paris

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So while the facade has been restored to its original state, interiors have been imagined as if they belong in a private home. Each of the 72 bedrooms and suites - where thick rugs, deep sofas and marble bathtubs give an air of cosy luxe - come with a bay window, offering

8 Quai du Louvre, 75001, Paris

VMH never does anything by halves, and this can definitely be said of their newest hotel, Cheval Blanc Paris (they already have a maison in Courchevel, St-Tropez, St-Barth Isle de France and the Maldives). For this, the group’s first opening in an urban setting, the location is perfect - the first arrondissement between the Marais, Île de la Cité and the Louvre.

LVMH ripples through the hotel, from the room fragrances created by master perfumer François Demachy and the Guillame Henrydesigned staff uniform to the subterranean Dior Spa. With its soft pink and beige palette, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s couture designs displayed on the walls and the maison’s skincare and fragrance collection available to purchase, this wellness destination is as glamorous as its name suggests (even the spa slippers are emblazoned with the fashion a front-row seat on to the Seine and city life below. L’Appartement on the eighth and ninth floors is a showstopper, even by Parisian standards, with its private swimming pool, wellness area, seven bedrooms, lounges, dining rooms and panoramic terrace.

The Art Deco building, which sits within the overhauled La Samaritaine department store complex, is the first hotel project by Peter Marino who, together with French architect Edouard François, has spent five years (working with no less than 600 artisans) meticulously creating a destination designed to celebrate both the city’s past and its modernity.

house’s logo). There’s also a 30-metre pool (the longest in the city), fitness area, Rossano Ferretti hairdressing salon and a treatment menu that reportedly took five years to perfect.

Jewel-coloured velvet furnishings pop against a soft palette, while restored period touches and on-point artworks add to the aesthetic. The all-marble bathrooms are particularly elegant. Some of the rooms have those romantic, wrought-iron balconies so unique to the city, with floorto-ceiling windows that invite guests to watch the world go by.

Zana is also responsible for the tenth-floor rooftop bar and garden, Sequoia. Open until midnight, and with views across twinkling

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from €1,150 per night, including breakfast, based on two people sharing

kimptonsthonoreparis.com ART DECO

RoomsParisstart

rooftops, it’s become quite the spot for chic Parisiennes to sip Champagne or one of the signature Mai Tai cocktails. Descend the beautifully restored staircase or take one of the vintage mirrored elevators to the Montecito Restaurant & Bar, where interiors are by design duo Humbert & Poyet. Low-key luxe is the order of the day, with the light-flooded brasserie serving up a California-meets-Paris menu. Think langoustine tostada, beef asada, or gourmet truffle pizzetta, while acai bowls and pancakes replace croissants as the popular choice for breakfast. Early risers will also love the Kimpton Morning Kickstart - coffee from local roasters LOMI and tea from Kusmi Tea.

Rooms start from £380 per night

Pampering comes in the form of the small but well-appointed spa (where treatments are by cult French skincare brand Codage), plus there’s an indoor heated swimming pool and state-of-the-art fitness centrethough you might prefer to up your BPM by borrowing one of the hotel’s bicycles and cycling along the Seine or through the pretty Tuileries Gardens. As with all properties,Kimptonthehotel is pet-friendly, so expect to see macaronsnibblingcoiffedguests,four-leggedaselegantly-astheirowners,ondoginthelounge.

Kimpton St Honoré

Upstairs, celebrated chef Arnaud Donckele oversees Plénitude, the lightflooded first-floor restaurant where he serves up a seductive French menu, followed by exquisite desserts by pastry chef Maxime Frédéric. Lumbar is more low-key, a place for a light lunch, afternoon goûter or one of mixologist Florian Thireau’s heady cocktails. On the 7th floor, you can feast on Italian seafood at buzzy Langosteria, or at brasserie Le Tout-Paris. The latter is open from breakfast, but it’s when dusk descends that the romance begins. A table beneath the stars, chilled Champagne and views of… le tout

27-29 Boulevard des Capucines, 75002, Paris

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HG Hotels & Resorts has brought its luxury boutique brand to the French capital with the opening of Kimpton St Honoré Paris. The 1917 building, moments from Opéra and Faubourg St Honoré, has been transformed under the talented eye of French architect and designer Charles Zana, who - in keeping with the ornate facade - has woven Art Deco touches throughout the 123 guest rooms and 26 suites.

he meeting of luxury Italian house Bulgari and the City of Light was always going to be a match made in hotel heaven - and so it is. Set in the ‘Golden Triangle’, the glamorous Right Bank enclave of grand boulevards and haute couture boutiques, the Bulgari Hotel Paris has one of the capital’s most prestigious addresses. The Eiffel Tower, Théâtre des Champs-Elysées and Avenue Montaigne are mere minutes away.

All this before heading upstairs, where nearly every one of the 76 rooms and suites has a private loggia overlooking the internal garden or a balcony with views down Avenue George V. Highlights include private hammams in the bathrooms, and the minibar, which is disguised as a travel trunk. The lavishly decorated two-floor penthouse is the pièce de résistance, with its huge private garden and 360° panoramas to match.

Bulgari Hotel Paris

Rooms start from €1,400 per night, including breakfast, based on two people sharing

The two-level 1,300 square metre spa is designed to emulate the baths of ancient Rome. The pool is lined with glittering mosaics in shades of emerald, jade and malachite, while the hammam is made of white Aphyon marble and the nine treatment rooms are clad in Vicenza stone (brands used by the therapists here include Augustinus Bader, Bellefountaine and 111 Skin). There’s also a vitality pool, gym, and hair and beauty space.

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30 Avenue George V, 75008, Paris bulgarihotels.com BEST FOR PAMPERING

But it’s Il Ristorante - Niko Romito that really sets the scene. On warmer days, the restaurant opens onto a secret giardino that’s dotted with tables set in the shade of beech and magnolia trees. The eponymous Michelin-starred chefself-taught, incidentally - serves an Italian menu that’s stunning in its simplicity and authenticity (the Vegetable Lasagna is a Romito signature and not to be missed).

The design is courtesy of Italian architectural studio Antonio Citterio Patricia Viel, with more than a little emphasis on luxury. Marble, silk wall coverings, granite, tapestries and polished eucalyptus woodwork come into play throughout, not least in the public spaces. Here you’ll find a sophisticated Parisian crowd nibbling delicate pastries by the fireplace in the gleaming lounge or sipping transalpine cocktails in the bar, which is deliciously dark and moody with its granite floor, lacquer walls and backlit ivory onyx bar.

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As you’d expect, the decor is flawless throughout the five-floor space. Overseen by in-house designer Severine Lammoglia, interiors draw inspiration from the distinctive style of the building’s former inhabitant, in particular his magnificent Côte d’Azur villa (the mosaictiled floor in the entrance deserves a special mention, so too the murals by Paris-based artist Roberto Ruspoli). And, for the first time ever, the art collection - curated by Kate Bryan, Soho House’s head of collections - is entirely made up of paintings. “For me, Paris is the home of painting,” explains Bryan.

A fter a pandemic-induced wait, Soho House Paris est arrivé The new opening for the private members’ club is in Pigalle, a former red-light district between the 9th and 18th arrondissements that’s fast becoming one of the buzziest spots in town. Which is why, of course, Soho House has set up home here, in an elegant 19th-century apartment building that was once the residence of artist, poet and avant-garde film-maker Jean Cocteau.

The 36 bedrooms come in every size, from Tiny at 13 square metres - though this is big enough for a double bed and rainforest showerthrough to the Boudoir+, which comes with a huge en-suite bathroom and separate sitting area. All embrace the boudoir style of 18th century France, with rich fabrics, vintage finds and exquisite period details - the parquet flooring in some of the bathrooms is just beautiful.

Soho House Paris

Rooms from €225 for members and €255 for Soho Friends members

45 Rue la Bruyere, 75009, Paris

BEST FOR DESIGN

There’s every manner of cosy corner in which to while away a few hours, from the main bar area to the library. On warmer days, soak up the sunshine in the outdoor central courtyard or the pretty Winter Garden, where you can dine on a menu that offers all the House favourites, as well as local delicacies including escargots , croque monsieur and tarte tatin . For the energetic, there’s an outdoor marble swimming pool, fully-equipped gym, plus a spa and wellbeing area. You can always be sure of the unexpected at Soho House, and in Paris it comes in the form of the underground Cabaret Room. Its Moulin Rouge-inspired silk gathered ceiling, red velvet walls and curving bar create the perfect setting to host films, DJ sets and burlesque performances.

F111/11045Ginger–VelvetBoxColourwith119/3017Satara

IN FULL BLOOM

HOME INTERIORS&

Liberty London’s iconic ditsy floral prints are heading into the wild as the emporium’s renowned fabrics are given high-performance, weatherproof bases ready for the Great British summer. The new Liberty Garden outdoor collection of 14 designs includes reimagined archival classics and bold botanical prints inspired by Arts and Crafts gardens, as well as stripes and geometrics. From £98 per metre libertyfabric.com

TABLE TALK

Multidisciplinary designer Emily Forgot has collaborated with east London rug dealer Floor Story to translate her blocky, architectural style into something you can walk on. The pieces play with the boundaries of 2D and 3D, with tufts cut at di erent heights to form a soft yet graphic structure. From £750 floorstory.co.uk

kaleidoscope

FLOOR FILLER

Cocktail

Italianate furniture, statement glassware, and design goes geometric Design Notes

A minimal take on the interlacing arches of the Cattedrale di Sant’Andrea, Ercol’s Amalfi sideboard is at once rounded and flat, textured and smooth, architectural and fragmented. Cra ed from solid oak in a natural or dark finish, each curve-clad door shows o the timber’s natural grain. £1,299 ercol.com

HEIGHTSLOFTY

Statement Piece

Compiled by AMY MOOREA WONG

Soho Home’s latest collection explores global artisanal processes and sculptural shapes. The Tisbury co ee table takes inspiration from the marble textures at London’s 180 House and comes in three colourwaysJurassic Green (pictured), Fantasy Brown and black, with variations in the marble meaning each piece is totally unique. £1,295 sohohome.com

Add some brightness to your bar with New Yorkbased design brand Sir/Madam’s Rialto range of jewel-like glass drinkware. The collection of coupes, goblets, tumblers and short glasses comes in a spectrum of joyful rainbow shades. From £60 for two glasses amara.com

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IN CASA BY PAYBOY Handmade Cushion Cover, £130, selfridges.com

THE ELDER STATESMAN Cashmere Blanket, £3,645, farfetch.com

FROM TOP LEFT TO RIGHT:

HENRY HOLLAND Chalice Bowl, £145, henryhollandstudio.com

EPOCH TEXTILES Hand-Loomed Rug, £115, libertylondon.com

MACKENZIE-CHILDS Fluted Serving Platter, £250, amara.com

ANNA + NINA Ceramic Carafe, £50, selfridges.com

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Bolia’s Cosmia sofa, designed by the Cologne-based creative duo Kaschkasch, extols the virtue of lowslung, modular seating. With a generously deep seat and low-key arms and back, it’s built from FSC-certified timber filled with real down for the ultimate in cushiony comfort, while its flexible modules mean it can form a variety of configurations.

From £6,232 bolia.com

VAISSELLE Genie in a Bottle Vase, £75, koibird.com

THE LOW-DOWN

KLEVERING Check Candle, £9, libertylondon.com

Be they gingham or plaid, pastel or bright, check patterns are set to deﬁne the interiors of 2022, their orderly yet playful graphics prompting nostalgic images of board games, school uniforms, picnics and slices of Battenberg.

Check mate

VAISSELLE Dessert Plate, £40, libertylondon.com

CERAUDO Guilia Chair, £1,035, ceraudo.com

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Floral stylist and author Willow Crossley talks about the inspiration behind her wild, whimsical creations, sustainability in floristry and finding sanctuary in nature

Words LUCIANA BELLINI

WILLOW ’S WORLD

Most days, it seems, are a dizzying whirl of activity. “People think of me as a florist, but I feel like I need to rename myself as a creative - so I can do my flowers, write books, design products… I love collaborating with people. I need that variety as I get bored very quickly.” Indeed, Crossley is master of the artful collaboration, creating everything from her own wallpaper with British brand Barneby Gates to rug designs with Amy Kent, and she’s just launched a capsule line of knitwear, tops and dresses with heritage label Brora. “I was so excited when Victoria [Stapleton, Brora founder and creative director] approached me. I love fashion, so this was a dream come true. The collection is a fusion of all my favourite things.”

lorist Willow Crossley is in the midst of preparations for a wedding at Blenheim Palace, and it’s all systems go. “People think floristry is such a peaceful job, but it’s actually like a military operation. I don’t sleep for weeks before big events,” she tells me from her 16th-century Cotswolds farmhouse, where she lives with her husband and three young sons. “It’s about getting the timings right so the flowers come out simultaneously and are in perfect condition. I’ve got five flower deliveries arriving over a three-week period and seven spreadsheets on the go, just for this one event… But there’s the adrenalin when it hopefully all comes together and I love that.”

If anyone can pull it off, Crossley can. Her wild and whimsical arrangements have seen her work with brands including Ralph Lauren and Jo Malone, and she counts Meghan, the Duchess of Sussex, as a private client. She’s also the author of four books and founder of her eponymous lifestyle brand, through which she offers workshops and online floristry courses, as well as selling her own vases and homewares. “I’m quite selective with the weddings I do now, just because I have so many other things going on,” she continues. “New projects have to be creatively really exciting.”

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It’s this creative flair that has taken the 39-year-old to where she is today, as one of the UK’s most sought-after florists and designers. Although she cites her mother, Kate Corbett-Winder, a gardener and artist, as influencing her style (“I absorbed everything from my mum and I still go to her for 90% of everything I do - should I be planting this and when should I be doing it”), Crossley turned to floristry later on in life. She originally started out in the world of fashion, leaving rural Wales, where she grew up with her two brothers, to study at the London College of Fashion. She spent a couple of years trying to break into the industry, which Crossley found to be “very competitive and not that cosy”, before landing a job at Tatler magazine and switching to beauty writing.

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But soon after, her then-boyfriend Charlie (now husband) moved to the south of France to work in a vineyard; within six months Crossley, now in her early 20s, had given up everything and joined him. She started collecting vintage textiles and turning them into fabric-covered books and beach bags, which she sold for “crazy money” at the legendary Club 55 beach bar in SaintTropez. Around the same time, she began a blog, where she chronicled her stylish Provençal life - an agent spotted it and decided it would make perfect fodder for a book. The Art of Handmade Living followed soon after, its pages full of Crossley’s crafty secrets.

It was while writing her second tome, The Art of Living with Nature, that she realised her true passion lay in floristry. “We had moved back to London and I was doing interiors,

“I find meditating very difficult but, to me, the idea of planting my bulbs or sowing seeds, that’s my meditation"

personal shopping, writing - spreading myself thinly,” says Crossley. “I wrote a chapter that was about living with flowers, and I loved it so much I decided to focus on that.” She enrolled in an intensive course at the Covent Garden Academy of Flowers and, soon after, the jewellery designer Hattie Rickards asked her to design the flowers for her wedding. “I did it with my mum and we didn’t have a clue what we were doing, but I loved it and it all went from there.”

Crossley describes her floristry style as “wild, wayward and very natural”, and mentions Constance Spry – the original “domestic goddess” who was responsible for the flowers at the Queen’s coronation – as an inspirational figure. When choosing flowers, Crossley is led by seasonality, and enjoys working with certain blooms more than others. “Tulips, I adore, and dahlias, sweet peas and garden roses - Solomon’s Seal is my favourite flower in the world.”

Since then, she’s created floral installations for the likes of Jo Malone, Ralph Lauren and Liz Earle (Crossley has worked with the latter two for the annual Chelsea in Bloom shows, earning Gold awards on both occasions), and worked with a long list of prestigious private clients, including the Duke and Duchess of Sussex, most recently, putting together the wreath that the couple sent for the funeral of the Duke of Edinburgh, as well as creating the event flowers for the launch of Meghan’s cookbook in aid of Grenfell Tower. “Every time I’ve worked with them, it’s been nothing but joyful,” says Crossley. “Meghan loves her flowers and she’s got great taste, so it’s always been a wonderful experience.”

For Crossley, flowers are not only a personal passion – they also have healing properties. After giving birth to her first son, Wolf, she suffered from terrible postnatal depression and found

that immersing herself in nature was one of the only things that helped. “It didn’t cure me, but everything that I did to make myself feel better was always to do with nature - walking in the woods, cloud gazing, playing with flowers,” she says. “It’s proven that being outside and just breathing can release serotonin. In Japan, doctors prescribe forest bathing, but here, the healing role of nature is still undervalued.”

“Historically,time. floristry has not been a very eco-friendly practice – there’s a lot of single-use plastic and floral foam is terrible for the environment,” she continues. “Now we’re all becoming more aware of how bad it is, we need to do our bit.” For Crossley, that means using plants rather than cut flowers whenever she can, which can then be replanted after events – current favourites include hydrangeas, hyacinths and muscari bulbs – and finding alternatives for the endless plastic buckets needed to house flowers. “I’m constantly using old pots and tins – I’ve got stashes of them all over the house.”

Her most recent book, The Wild Journal, was inspired by her struggles and focuses on the role of the outdoors in wellbeing. “The book is a very personal account of my experiences. I don’t have postnatal depression now, but I worry a lot and I’m quite anxious. Being outside makes a huge difference. I find meditating very difficult but, to me, planting my bulbs or sowing seeds, that’s my meditation. It’s nice to be

“Every time I’ve worked with the Duke and Duchess of Sussex, it’s been joyful. Meghan loves her flowers and she’s got great taste, so it’s always been a wonderful experience"

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Sustainability is a key focus in her floristry, and she tries to buy from local growers wherever possible – her favourites include the Land Gardeners at Wardington Manor and Bayntun Flowers in West Wiltshire. “Buying British is my preference, always. In the off season, I have to buy flowers from Holland. They’re picked early and often arrive ramrod shut - peonies, for example, are quite diva-ish when it comes to getting them to come out at the right

working mothers face” – she’s launching a new content INTERIORS

Her style inspiration is as eclectic as her home. “Anna Spiro is my favourite, she loves mixing pattern on pattern, colour on colour. Also Sarah Vanrenen and Nicola Harding, and Angelica Squire has a beautiful eye and a fresh, romantic palette. I’m drawn to Rose Uniacke too - her work is very peaceful, the complete opposite to my house.” She lists Penny Morrison, Bennison Fabrics and Robert Kime as favourites for interiors shopping, though she prefers antiques and vintage pieces. “I’ll trawl through Ardingly Antiques Fair or hunt down vintage fabrics on eBay – I recently upholstered a bedhead with some beautiful old suzani fabric that I found. I love the history that comes with old textiles – they just feel more exciting.”

CERAUDO Chiara Dining Chair, £780 per pair, ceraudo.com

able to nurture and have control over something. I think people don’t really realise how beneficial nature can be.”

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WILLOW CROSSLEY Greenhouse Scented Candle, £40, willowcrossley.com

Spring Greens

BORDALLO PINHEIRO Banana Leaf Serving Platter, £85, matchesfashion.com

Anyone who visits The Bull Inn, in nearby Charlbury, will be able to see Willow’s aesthetic for themselves. She owns the pub with her husband and was tasked with its interior design. “Charlie wanted it to feel like a home away from home, though I’ve had to be slightly more practical. Sweet, delicate fabrics wouldn’t stand the test of customers coming and going, so we upholstered in tougher materials but we still went for colour. The Bull is like my home, there’s not one straight wall in there. It’s very characterful.”

ISSY GRANGER Glass Candle Stick Holder, £35, issygranger.com

THE CONRAN SHOP Splatter Vase in Green, £115, conranshop.co.uk

LATE AFTERNOON Lima Tumbler, £26, lateafternoon.co.uk

Crossley and her husband swapped southwest London for Oxfordshire 11 years ago. Situated just outside Woodstock, their house is made up of two higgledy-piggledy cottages put together and is a happy mishmash of styles, full of colour, pattern and print. “We basically live in our kitchen and sitting room, which is open plan, and there are lots of natural fabrics, all cotton and linen and driftwood. The walls are covered in flowers or trees or birds. It’s completely unintentional - just a collection of things that I’m drawn to - but it feels very homey and comfortable, and that’s what we want. It is beautiful chaos.”

SOHO HOME Adderbury Platter, £110, sohohome.com

CHELSEA TEXTILES Faux Bamboo Side Table, POA, chelseatextiles.com

WillowSpringCrossley’sGreens

ISSY GRANGER The Millay Merino Lambswool Throw, £185, issygranger.com

Tinkering around in her greenhouse also helps - “I can feel the calm after two minutes of being in there, talking to my geraniums” – and she recommends having flowers indoors to keep the spirits up. “I always have a big bowl of hyacinths and narcissus to get me through winter, and foxgloves and tulips in spring.”

GLASSETTE Mint Green Glass Jug, £240, glassett.com

As if it wasn’t enough juggling a business with raising her three boys – “I feel permanently guilty that I’m not doing well enough, but I think that’s something all working mothers face” – she’s launching a new content platform, The Seed, on her website. “I want it to become a lifestyle space where I can talk about all the things that interest me, like mental health. Our brand pillars are Create, Nurture and Inspire, so everything we do, from interviews to products and reviews, will come back to those.” In a way, I say, it’s not that dissimilar to the blog you started all those years ago in France. “Exactly,” she says with a smile. “It’s almost like I’ve come full circle.” willowcrossley.com

The Glossary Edit

HOT POTTERY The Pistachio Plate, £40, libertylondon.com

ALFRED NEWALL Bobbin Mirror, £575, alfrednewall.com

POOKY Liberty Quill Print Lampshade, £118, Bobboli Table Lamp, £134, pooky.com

I’ve recently signed up to

SimonWhateverlatestMahalia’ssingle,Says,

NIGHTS OUT

I’ve recently signed up to Reed, which is a new gym in Liverpool Street. It’s a really cool space and fuses working out with creativity. It’s got an artsy vibe – as you walk in there’s a turntable with loads of vinyl and taxidermy all over the walls. Plus the music is really good, which is so hard to find in a gym. I go to Heartcore their brilliant Reformer Pilates classes - they have studios all over London.

Shoreditch House is one of my trusty places to go if I want to have a good time – in the summer I’ll head up to the rooftop, and there’s always a great vibe in the Library bar. I’ve also been to some really fun and flamboyant events at The Standard. The bar on the roof is very cool – and then

As told to LUCIANA BELLINI

OMEARA

BEAUTY SPOTS

LAST WORD 96

NEIGHBOURHOOD WATCH

THE STANDARD

HEARTCORE

LANDMARK Tower Bridge has a special place in my heart. I went down to St thatit’sthewalkedafterwardsday,theforDocksKatharinelunchotherthenacrossbridge,andmomentslikewhichmakeme realise how much I love being in this city. Sometimes it can feel quite daunting and lonely being in London, but when I look out over the water from Tower Bridge, I really can’t imagine living anywhere else.

For live music, I like smaller venues. My favourite is Omeara

MUSIC VENUE

SHOREDITCHNETIL360HOUSE

M Y GLO SS A RY

which is under the arches near London Bridge. It was started by Ben Lovett from Mumford and Sons and it’s got a great atmosphere. One of my first soldout shows was there, and now it feels like a rite of passage for artists to play there.

LOND O N

You have to cut it curl by curl,

Nail Stories on Hackney Road is my go-to for manicures and nail art - the nail technicians really know what they’re doing. My manager recently recommended a HydraFacial at Skin & Sanctuary by Victoria Park – I came out feeling like my skin was a shiny new button afterwards. I get my hair done at Curl Talk just o Brick Lane, which is a great salon dedicated to afro curly hair. You have to cut it curl by curl, so it’s a long process, but I really trust the girls in there.

I just discovered AGR, a Londonbased forms,knitwearonthatRobinsondesignerfoundedbrandbyAliciafocusescolourfulinallitsfromhats to dresses to coats.

I love the happy rainbow feel you get from wearing her pieces. There’s also a great vintage menswear store on Brick Lane called 194 Local that sells womenswear too. They get some great old-school designer pieces every month.

FITNESS FOCUS

AGR

TOWER BRIDGE

Singer-songwriter Mahalia opens her little black book to the capital, from her favourite music venue to the best rooftop spots

Simon Says, is out nowHydraFacialbyVictoria Park – I came out feeling like my skin was a shiny new button

I’ve lived in Bethnal Green since I moved to London from Leicester four years ago. It’s close to the hustle and bustle of Shoreditch, but far enough away that you still get a little bit of calm. I’ve managed to build a lovely community here, which is so important to me having grown up in a place where I knew all my neighbours and shopkeepers.

Meson Don Felipe is a tiny little authentic Spanish tapas bar with live music on The Cut, just across the road from the Young Vic theatre. My boyfriend took me there for our anniversary – it’s our favourite place for a nice dinner with a good bottle of wine. I always order the grilled octopus and traditional Spanish garlic and chilli prawns. Love Shack in Bethnal Green is a fantastic vegan restaurant and cocktail bar – their Long Island Ice Tea is the best I’ve ever had.

there’s that amazing lift. My best friend took me to Netil360 last summer, right by Mare Street Market, and I loved it. It’s a rooftop bar that has Astroturf all across it, so it kind of feels like you’re sitting on grass up in the sky, and they do a great Aperol Spritz.

FASHION FIX

RESTAURANTS

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