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Mt. Hood Meadows
When the Snow Flies, Kick and Glide
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Local trails and dedicated Nordic areas offer accessible winter recreation
story and photos by BEN MITCHELL
Like many outdoor sports, cross-country skiing saw a massive boom during the first winter of the Covid-19 pandemic (a depressing last half of a sentence to write), as the coinciding reduction in entertainment and recreation options saw cooped-up people search for new leisure-time outlets. Ski sales skyrocketed, resulting in shortages of gear –– a trend exacerbated by supply chain issues that have plagued all sorts of other industries.
If you were lucky enough to grab a pair of skis, boots, and poles, but haven’t gotten around to breaking them in, now is the time! Why? For a few reasons. Cross-country skiing is a great way to experience the outdoors, and it’s a low-impact snow sport that all ages can enjoy — and with a learning curve much less steep than that of skiing or snowboarding. It’s also relatively low cost compared to downhill skiing, both in terms of gear and access. Cross-country skiing options in the Gorge area are plentiful. We’ve highlighted a few here to help you get out and enjoy the snow.
MOUNT HOOD
Teacup Lake Sno-Park: Located 34 miles south of Hood River on Highway 35, Teacup is arguably the most well-known Nordic trail system in the area, and for good reason. Excellent and consistent groom, a wide variety of trails for all ability levels, killer views of Mount Hood (when it’s not cloudy, of course), a large parking lot, great trail signage, a cute warming hut, and fun events and races make this a popular place –– on peak weekends, it’s been known to park out. The 20-kilometer trail system is maintained by the Teacup Lake Nordic Club nonprofit, founded in 1979.
An Oregon Sno-Park permit ($25) is required to park in the lot, and a trail fee/pass is required to use the trail system (17 and under ski for free). As Teacup is specifically for cross-country skiing, the snowshoes and the dog(s) need to be left at home. teacupnordic.org for prices and more info
Teacup
Mt. Hood Meadows Mt. Hood Meadows: (Full disclosure: I work in the Mt. Hood Meadows marketing department.) Just across the way on Highway 35 is Mt. Hood Meadows Resort, which has its Nordic Center located on the southeast side of the Hood River Meadows (HRM) lot. While it’s far more famous for its lift-served terrain, Meadows is no slouch in the cross-country department either. Boasting 16.5 kilometers of groomed trails that take you past meadows with mountain views, through the woods, and to the gorgeous Sahalie Falls, Meadows also offers Nordic lessons and rentals if you were unable to snag cross-country skis. While Meadows’ lifts are super popular, its Nordic trails are rarely crowded, unless there is an event going on. Plus, you can ski right up to the Renaissance Cafe in the HRM day lodge for an aprés ski beverage and/or meal.
An Oregon Sno-Park permit is required to park in the lot, and access to the trails requires the purchase of a Nordic track fee or a Nordic season pass. No dogs are allowed on any of the groomed Nordic trails. skihood.com/nordic for prices and more info
Bennett Pass: If you’re looking for a little more of a rustic adventure, head to Bennett Pass, located just a couple of miles up the road from Teacup on Highway 35. Unlike Teacup and Meadows, Bennett Pass does not have groomed trails or as large a parking lot (but still enough space for 30 cars, although it will fill up on nice weekends), but the views of Mount Hood are absolutely fantastic, you can bring your doggos,
Bennett Pass
and the only fee that’s required is (you guessed it) an Oregon Sno-Park permit. The trail system is labyrinthine and can get into some sketchy terrain (Google “Terrible Traverse” if you’re interested), but the classic route is to stay to the left for the first couple of miles or so until you come to the ‘Gram-worthy overlook of Mount Hood, then turn around and head back to the parking lot. fs.usda.gov/recmain/mthood/recreation and click on Bennett Pass
Mt. Adams Pineside
MOUNT ADAMS
East Side Ski Trails: Located on the Washington side of the Gorge just a few miles north of Trout Lake are the East Side Ski Trails, which are accessible via the Pineside and Snow King Sno-Parks. Part of the Gifford Pinchot National Forest, this 20-mile trail system offers some great groomed beginner/intermediate options (the 3.7-mile Big Tree Loop is my go-to) and is less popular than the aforementioned Mount Hood Trails. However, the alpine views, where available, aren’t as epic, the snowfall is less consistent due to the lower elevation, you’ll likely hear the sounds of nearby snowmobilers, and you have to buy a separate, more expensive Washington Sno-Park permit ($50 for the season), since Oregon/Washington reciprocity ended several years ago. All that aside, it’s absolutely worth a visit. fs.usda.gov/recmain/giffordpinchot/recreation and click on Sno-Park: Pineside
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THE GORGE:
Mosier Twin Tunnels: Snowfall in the Gorge isn’t rare, but most of the time, there’s not enough to play in. On the occasion that there is, take advantage of it, because accessible trails that are popular in the summer for hiking become even more gorgeous in winter, making a cross-country ski adventure here a real treat. The Mosier Twin Tunnels Trail (part of the Historic Columbia River Highway State Trail) on the east side of Hood River is a great example. It can be hilly in spots, but with a paved path that meanders through woods and past stunning overlooks, this trail is ideal for cross-country skiing when there’s only a few inches of snow, although I recommend using skis that you don’t care about scratching in the event that you kick and glide over some asphalt (make sure you turn around or clip out at the tunnels). You’ll need an Oregon State Parks permit ($5/day or $30/year) to park in the Mark O. Hatfield Trailhead lots. stateparks.oregon.gov and enter Historic Columbia River Highway State Trail
Klickitat Trail: I’ve hiked on this trail plenty of times in the spring and fall, but have never gotten around to doing it in the winter. This railroad-grade trail that meanders alongside the scenic Klickitat River (the trailhead outside of Lyle is a great place to start) would likely make an absolutely fantastic cross-country skiing outing, especially during bald eagle mating season in January. No fee is required, but the trail does get rocky a couple of miles in, so a significant amount of snow (probably a foot or more) would be needed for a longer tour. klickitat-trail.org
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