Fashion

Is There a Future for Fashion Week?

Image: medium.com

During the many fashion weeks hosted across the world throughout the year, cities are taken storm by a food of journalists, models, designers, photographers and infuencers, hectically commuting between an endless schedule of shows. Initially orchestrated behind closed doors for buyers, Fashion Week has since metamorphosed into a seemingly incessant ballet, with pre-collections, cruise collections, haute couture and women’s and men’s fashion weeks all part of this choreographed routine. But when the coronavirus crisis forced brands to seek new ways to present their collections outside of the traditional runway format, the question of whether there is really a need for physical fashion weeks was brought onto the table.

The idea of an industry without fashion weeks isn’t exactly a brand new phenomenon. Last summer, environmental activist group Extinction Rebellion called for an end to London Fashion Week, staging a funeral for LFW in the city’s streets, with posters emblazoned with statements like ‘No Fashion on a Dead Planet’ and ‘Fashion=Ecocide’ serving as a stark reminder of the detrimental environmental impact of the industry. And though luxury fashion doesn’t perpetuate throw-away attitudes towards clothes in the same way that fast-fashion does, it’s certainly not free of blame when it comes to the impact of production, not just of the clothes themselves, but of the continuous cycle of shows that take place across the globe. Take cruise collections, for example, where the industry’s major fashion houses fy thousands of infuencers and fashion personnel across the planet to specially-selected holiday locations, all for a 10-minute runway show. In an age where sustainability is at the centre of almost every conversation in the industry, it seems pretty bizarre. Not to mention the impact of this vicious cycle, where creativity is stifed by the pressure of creating constant newness, on the mental wellbeing of designers.

The pandemic has compelled brands to take a new approach to showcasing their collections- shifting to digital formats out of necessity, but equally minimising the cost, waste and emissions that usually go into creating a runway show. For Gucci’s digital show in July, creative director Alessandro Michele invited the designers who created the garments to wear their own creations, offering a livestream runway accompanied by a 76-look catalogue of mens- and womenswear designs. But so far, only a few shows have really resonated - such as Jonathon Anderson’s ‘Show in a Box’ for Loewe, which celebrated creative process and craftsmanship, or Maison Margiela’s 50-minute flm which gave a behind-the-scenes look at the way a collection comes together - and engagement has dropped signifcantly in comparison to real-life shows. You only have to look at the power a runway show has to elevate a brand’s status - take Jacquemus’ viral SS20 collection, unveiled on a train of fuschia within a sea of lavender in the heart of Provence last summer - to recognise how fundamental they are to the industry. If digital shows are going to have the same impact as real life runways, brands need to do more than simply copy and paste the traditional formula online, and go beyond simply livestreaming a private runway.

While there are those brands looking to embrace new formats and technologies, breaking away from tradition, others didn’t hesitate to make a swift return to the physical runway. In July, Dior presented its Resort 2021 show in Lecce, Italy, meanwhile infuencers gathered in a feld of wheat near Paris for Jacquemus’ ever-aesthetically-pleasing runway show. Copenhagen Fashion Week became the frst post-lockdown city to host a signifcant schedule of IRL runway shows, with exhibitions, presentations and runways adapted to Covid-19 regulations.

Meanwhile, this month’s Spring/Summer 2021 fashion weeks are set to feature a mix of physical and digital shows, with brands like Simone Rocha and Roksanda showing their collections in person at London Fashion Week - with social-distancing guidelines in place, of course. In any case, it’s clear that many brands just aren’t ready to break up completely with the traditional runway format.

When physical fashion shows have long been seen as the ultimate fashion experience and height of creativity, if digital shows are the future, it’s going to take time for generations of both designers and consumers to adjust to this new way of consuming fashion. What’s clear is that the pre-Covid model of fashion weeks is unsustainable, both for designers and the planet. The fashion industry mirrors the cultural zeitgeist, but also plays an important role in creating it - if fashion weeks could evolve to become a platform for celebrating the visual and artistic aspects of fashion, embracing both physical and digital forms of presentation, while simultaneously promoting a message of sustainability rather than one of overconsumption, the future of fashion shows - and the planet - could look a little brighter.

Ruby McAuliffe

A Fresher’s Guide to Making Friends and Beating Coronavirus Loneliness

Congratulations! You’ve survived the studying and the exams and you’ve made it to the University of Leeds! But instead of feeling excited by starting your university life, you may be feeling defated because, thanks to coronavirus, your fun-flled freshers could be a disaster! How are you going to socialise and meet friends with imposed social distancing, cancelled events and online learning? But don’t let Covid get you down. There are plenty of ways you can still have socialise safely.

1) Make an effort with your new household bubble!

My frst advice for making friends at university is to get to know your fatmates. Your new household bubble are likely the people you’re going to interact with the most during this year, so don’t be shy to get to know them. Wondering how to break the ice with your fatmates? Why not try the AT HOME OTLEY RUN?

A tradition to the Leeds freshers experience is the famous Otley Run. Packing the streets between Headingly and Woodhouse Lane, students pub crawl the night away until they reach the epitome of a frst year's night out- Fruity Friday! But while the Otley Run in all its glory might be off the cards for now, doesn’t mean you need to miss out on all the fun! If you can’t go to the Otley Run, then bring the Otley run to you! Get each person to deck their room out as a makeshift pub by supplying their favourite tunes, snacks, party games and drinks (alcohol-free choices included). Then, make your way down each room, letting the "host" introduce themselves a bit more! Finally, dance the night away in the communal spaces by tuning into the good vibes of a live-streamed fruity Friday. Don’t forget to dress up though, it isn’t a real Otley run without the costumes!

2) Although your lectures might not be in person, still make an effort to get to know the people on your course

When I was a fresher last year, coronavirus hadn’t even been mentioned on TV yet but virtual aspects of socialising were still a big part of how I made friends at uni. I went onto Facebook and asked on a “Leeds Uni students 2019/20” group whether anyone was doing my course and to my surprise, there were many people who wanted to connect and start a group chat. This is a great way to meet people even if you can’t see them in person.

3) Still join a society

Many societies have made the decision to turn virtual during the frst semester, but that doesn’t mean you can’t join. Societies are a great way to meet people with similar interests so, don’t let the virtual aspect put you off!

Something important to remember right now is that so long as you follow the government guidance, you CAN still have a relatively normal frst year. Socialising IS allowed, socially distanced, so don’t let the ‘Rona’ make you feel like you have to isolate in your room the whole year. Social distancing is important but so is your mental health. Loneliness can be crippling and it is much more common than you think: higher education group Wohnke reported that a third of students admitted to feeling loneliness on a weekly basis even before the pandemic began. If you’re feeling overwhelmed or lonely at any point, remember that you can get support from the student-run Nightline which operates from 8pm-2am every night during term time. Here’s the number just in case: 0113380285

Wishing you all the best of luck!

Katelyn Shearer

Lucy Abbott

I’m Lucy, a 3rd year Journalism student, and I am one of the online editors this year. Fact 1: I have been playing/learning the piano for 11 years Fact 2: I’m highly obsessed with cats

Anushka Searle (Nush)

I’m a 3rd year English Language and Literature student, and I am a massive foodie!

Fact 1: I started becoming vegetarian after I watched Charlotte’s Web when I was 8 (traumatised!)

Fact 2: I read a lot of YA fction. My favourite author is Sarah J. Maas

Beanna Olding (Bea)

I’m a 2nd year International Relations and Spanish student. My passions include creative writing in the high fantasy genre, environmental protection, human rights, politics and travel.

Fact 1: My name came from a crumbling headstone found on Lindisfarne, Holy Island Fact 2: I’ve solo backpacked around a few countries

Georgie Wardall

I’m a 4th year English Literature and French student just back from my year abroad! Fact 1: I’m a big lover of coffee Fact 2: My favourite book is “Sons and Lovers” by D H Lawrence 21