Arts Supplement of
The Gryphon
Fashion - Blogs - Lifestyle -
Issue 3
In the Middle
Music - Clubs - Art - Culture
In the Middle
Contents In the Middle Associate Alex Gibbon
Music & Clubs
8
4
In the Middle w/ Pale Waves
6
Artists to watch in 2021
Fashion 14 A recap of 2020’s most iconic fashion trends
15
2021 trend predictions
Arts and Culture 18 Jorge Hopkins Wang
Reviews: Singles and albums
10
The history of GTA radio
12
In the Middle w/ Bombay Bicycle Club
Elle Palmer Fern McErlane Ishmael Silvestro Liam Cattermole
Bella Wigley
16
The COVID-19 effect
Faye Clayton Lizzie Wright
Face masks: A modern wardrobe staple
17
Ruby Mae-McAuliffe
Delphie Bond
21
Instagram activism and its pastelcoloured classroom
Emily Parry Owen Frost Phoebe Walker
20
Horrible Histories and Marcus Rashford: BBC launch lockdown lessons
22
2021: What‘s to come?
Blogs & Lifestyle 24 25
2
Living green: Eco-friendly apps
Rory Yeates Sinead O‘Riordan
Anushka Searle
26
Transitioning to veganism
Beanna Olding Georgie Wardall Lucy Abbott
How to bullet journal
Front Cover
Back Cover
Illustration by Marnie Moody @marniemoodyart
Illustration by Alex Wright @amwcreations
Listen
Contents
Full Frontal
alex gibbon
Alcohol, sexy hipster Dads and J-Lo are making this new year a bareable one
Pitchfork
shame - Drunk Tank Pink Smashing the curse of the second album with ing as well as brazenly uncompromising.
wear
Happy new year! By which I mean I am begging any deity that will listen to make 2021 a happier year than the last one. It doesn’t exactly help that we have to start with January, the absolute beast of the Gregorian calendar, but I suppose that means, to quote the ‘80s icon Yazz, the only way is up. No one I know has bothered with the traditional resolutions as that would be like getting set dissertation. In fact, if anything, I will be practising an inverted version of Dry January where you allow yourself a drink any day you want, if that’a what helps you -
Yet, in a shocking turn of events, Jennifer Lopez managed to out-camp Gaga by interpolating her hit sinof the sort of person who attempts to sing the harmony in a rendition of ‘Happy Birthday’ and I loved it. overly enthusiastic nationalism skin-crawling and overbearing, I couldn’t help but feel as though we need to the next state opening of parliament, I would like to see Charli XCX make a turn as Black Rod and bang on the door of the Commons to the beat of her newest also sack off a tedious address from our reigning monarch in favour of a Queen’s Speech from Brummie babe Lady Leshurr. Just a thought.
Headingley that is perfect for a crisp, winter walk, also Nylon
Sweater Vests to Cole Sprouse’s ‘Suite Life’ era with a fect for layering so go on and treat yourself with that Christmas money.
see
entire home county of Cumbria, I feel as though I have er, was it worth it to witness the swarm of extremely sexy hipster dads clutching onto sourdough loaves, at the knees for bearded men aggressively dashing round the aisles like frenzied Supermarket Sweep contestants in a desperate attempt to snatch up the last of the reduced items. Joe Biden was inaugurated as the 46th president of ington DC this month, with Mother Monster herself dialling up the whimsical glam in a look that can best be
undraw.co
Meet the editors Channel 4
turn of Blogs and Lifestyle Editor Anushka Searle
It’s a Sin of the year, the series explores the lives of three young gay men in the ‘80s during the amazing fashion and a killer soundtrack.
do
What do you like to do in your spare time?
What is the craziest dream you have ever had?
I really love to cook and my favourite thing to do is invent recipes, or adapt ones that I’ve found. I’m vegetarian and I love to experiment with different veggies and ways of cooking.
nition. Basically, whenever I’m going to be ill, I’ll have the same dream where I’m in a prison and it’s really dark and I’m looking at these bars with a man behind them, and the bars keep on expanding and moving which makes me motion sick.
What the best advice you have ever been given? You’d think it would be something poignant and thought-provoking but for me the best advice I have been given is cooking advice from my mum. She says “you can always add but you can’t take away” and this is something I use everyday when inventing recipes.
What did you want to be when you were growing up? ly unrealistic. Next up, was a fashion designer which properly Even today, I have multiple career paths which I’d love to pursue, including being a food editor!
BBC
Sing a Sea Shanty is proven to produce serotinin so why not take advantage of the latest internet trend recommendations include John Kanaka, Cape Cod Girls and the unbeatable classic Drunken Sailor.
What has been a happy memory for you? is pregnant! I had gone home from uni and I was sat in the living room. My sister arrived and I went in the kitchen to say “hi” and she said “I’ve got something to tell you” and I looked down immediately and there was a little bump! Her baby boy
3
In the Middle
in the middle with pale waves Though at this point many of us have descended into a cycle of hastily thrown on Zoom call outfits, pyjama pants or joggers worn out of frame, Heather Baron-Gracie logs in looking incredibly put-together in bold pink eyeshadow. This interview is likely one of many for the Pale Waves vocalist today, but she still greets me cheerfully“Nice to meet ya“- to talk about Pale Waves’ upcoming album release. Their second album Who Am I? is set to be released on 12 February 2021.
Heather tells me that the Manchester-based band recorded this new album not at home, but in the USA- “It was recorded when the pandemic became the main ‘topic of conversation’ and people started to realise how bad it was. This was around March time last year. I was in LA- but half of the band flew back to England. They didn’t wanna be stuck there, because nobody knew how bad it was gonna get!“ Heather herself, however, stayed in Los Angeles to finish the record; “I love LA, it’s like a second home for me- my girlfriend is from there, so I was happy chilling there. I came back for the album campaign in August. I had all the songs wrote, fully formed and fully shaped, ready to go- so it didn’t affect the writing process at all. For the majority of the time, it was just me and our producer. We were in masks and gloves in the studio!“
The album itself seems to explore a new emotion in every track, each with its own unique sound: atmospheric songs with twangy indie rock guitar, and of course Heather’s strong and synthy vocals ringing through, especially on the singles that have been released already, ‘Easy’ and ‘She’s My Religion’. Which track does Heather personally love the most? “It would have to be ‘Wish You Were Here’- it wasn’t originally actually meant to be on the album, but we realised we had extra studio time! I’m really thankful that it’s on the album because it brings a whole different mood and personality to the album.“ It was produced by the indie label that Pale Waves are signed to, the infamously popular Dirty Hit: “They give me a lot of control creatively, and I can pretty much do what I want.“ I ask if there’s any chance of upcoming collaborative tracks with other Dirty Hit-signed artists- “I didn’t feel the need to collab with anyone on this record- there was talk of doing a song with The 1975, but definitely not for this album.“ There’s not much Heather seems to miss about life outside of lockdown - especially not pubs and clubs, like many people. “Being 25, I think you hit a certain age- maybe when I was 22 or 23- when you don’t enjoy going to clubs anymore. You get creepy guys being obsessed over your tattoos- they just randomly grab your arm, it infuriates me!“ she confesses. However, she does look back fondly on some things that the pandemic has put a halt to, such as travelling, and the memories that being part of a band like Pale Waves have given her: “If it wasn’t for this band, I doubt I would’ve been able to see so much of the world, and being able to go to places like Japan, New Zealand – and I don’t even know when I would’ve gone to America if it wasn’t for this band.“ It’s a busy year for Pale Waves, despite current national restrictions- they already have several festival dates confirmed for 2021, and a full headline UK tour yet to be announced. “I think the best part of being in a band is being able to tour, and know that you can go so far away from home, and people are gonna show up- that still amazes me. People still show up for us. I’m like wow, how do you know us? I can’t even remember all the shows we’ve done- I really enjoyed playing Glastonbury, because it’s the festival in the UK.You sort of know you’ve made it, being on that bill.“
Fern McErlane
Image: Ian Cheek press
Musicand andClubs Clubs Music
it, being on that bill.’
Image: Ian Cheek press
MUSIC & CLUBS
“I reallY enjoyed playing Glastonbury, because it’s the festival in the UK. You sort I really enjoyed playing of know you’ve made it, being on that bill“ Glastonbury, because it’s the festival in the UK. You sort of know you’ve made - Heather Baron-Gracie
55
Artists to watch in 2021 All the acts you should be keeping a firm eye on over the coming anum
Scuti You cannot help but think Scuti’s career is about to take off astronomically. Fittingly named after the biggest star in the universe, UY Scuti, she recently featured on Oscar #WORLDPEACE’S ‘HIS AND HERS’ EP. Although her roots are embedded in rap music, last year’s ‘THIS IS SKOO’ mixtape showed she has the ability to spread her suave over a multiplicity of genres.
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Music and Clubs
Ragz Originale Multi-talented Tottenham producer-rapper-singer Ragz Originale blends R&B and Afrobeats to grace the U.K. with wavey ballads. The multifaceted artist, alongside his contributing instrumentals to Skepta’s two previous albums: Konnichiwa and Ignorance Is Bliss. With a new mixtape set for January 29th, expect a lot more from him in 2021.
Weyes Blood Natalie Mering, also known as Weyes Blood, stunned us with the stoic art-pop of her album ‘Titanic Rising’ back in 2019. Beautifully orchestrated and emotionally breath-taking, it was a Natalie has spoken about her astonishment with the new meaning her track ‘Wild Time’ has taken on since the pandemic, and, crafted in isolation, her next album is certain to be another
Nix Northwest Not your typical Southern rap hopeful, Leeds-based Nix Northwest spins elegant and poignant rhymes over his own musical arrangements. You may have heard him playing keys on a Lausse track, formerly credited as The Young Wizard. His latest track ‚Drive Slow‘ is a softly spoken confessional track, with Nix taking the vocal lead for his own chorus too, over twinkling, synthy keys. It’s been a while since Nix’s last full release, his 2019 debut album ‚Life’s a Bitch, I Just Need an Early Night‘; so we could possibly be due another full musical instalment this year.
Black Country, New Road punk act Black Country, New Road. Blending experimental post-rock with fragility of British middle-class life, and the tenderness that comes with living in the modern age. Listen to their debut album in February for more tracks about the perils of Daddy’s money and the pains of skipping your last dose of antidepressants in order to have better sex.
7
Burail - Chemz Burial has dropped his most recent single ‘Chemz’ on Kode9’s label, and it certainly puts the ‘hyper’ in Hyperdub. Upholding his penchant for December releases, the track follows his recent collaboration with Four Tet and Thom Yorke, ‘Her Revolution/His Rope’. This latest tune is a chaotic love letter to dancing. Multiple club-orientated genres chop voltage and leaves you with a dizzying electrostatic shock. ‘Chemz’ harnesses familiar crackly elements. Pitch-shifted vocal samples, as usual, give a sense of an attentive touch. It is just as transportive as the rest of his discography. Revered by the likes of Mark Fisher for his careful, spectral discrepancies in music texture, Burial again displays his ability to carry us to a 90s hardcore rave and appeal to a nostalgic sensibility. forward, to a rush of post-pandemic bliss. Between the past and the future, ‘Chemz’ is a purgatorial emotional overdrive. ‘Chemz’ will release on vinyl with B-side ‘Dolphinz’ in April. Alexandra Stewart
Black Country, New Road - Track X Image credit: Fruity
Black Country, New Road reveal an unexpected capacity for beauty with enchanting new single, ‘Track X’ New Road. A total swerve away from the polemical angst and frenzy of previous releases, ‘Track X’ summons
a sense of both nostalgia and of hope.
on the forthcoming album, ‘For the First Time‘, perhaps demonstrates the journey that this enigma of a band has travelled since their inception. ‘Track X’ opens with a mesmeric guitar riff which encircles vocalist Isaac Wood’s trademark meandering spoken word, mixing the sardonic with the sincere. Suddenly, the 7 band members have become an orchestra: complementary instrumental repetitions create a richly textured sound, calling to mind modern classical works by Steve Reich or John Adams’ ‘Shaker Loops’. Chirruping offbeat saxophone and violin melodies peek out and reverberate above the steady guitars, and Wood’s sprechgesang vocals drift throughout, almost blending in to become just another instrument itself. Indeed, at some points it seems as if three or more songs have somehow combined to become one glorious 5-minute masterpiece. Deceivingly training of BCNR’s members are evident in the ease and skill with which the band carries off this artistry.
eager to heap upon them. Not only that, but this track achieves something which has until now eluded BCNR, and has perhaps been so far off their radar as to be a totally alien concept: it is beautiful. Freya Martin
8
Playboi Carti - Whole Lotta Red A Christmas gift to his fans, Playboi Carti delivers the much-awaited ‘Whole Lotta Red‘. Executively produced by Kanye West, the 25-track, hour long LP boasts vampy, experimental beats to accompany Carti’s infamous baby voice and his almost undecipherable ‘cartinese’. anticipated. The hype was heightened by weeks of missed release dates and endless snippet teasing on Twitter. Opening with ‘Rockstar Made’, the album’s tone is aggressive, violent and undeniably manic from the start. Though momentum builds through mosh-pit ready tunes like ‘Stop Breathing’ and ‘M3tamorphosis’ (featuring legendary Kid Cudi hums), the album lags in its middle section. Carti fails to maintain the punk, high-energy atmosphere, leaving songs like ‘Meh’ feeling repetitive, drab and tired. Though a typical Playboi Carti album is not famed for its lyricism, these songs are almost unbearable: ‘Meh’ makes you endure Carti whining over a weak, mismatched beat. Towards the end of the album, there is a glimmer of hope for Carti fans who wanted something resembling his ‘old’ sound. ‘New N3on’, a previously leaked song, makes a surprise appearance, restoring faith. This pairs with the Pi’erre Bourne produced ‘Place’ and ‘ILoveYouIHateYou’, both of which are more reminiscent of Die Lit. Filled with highs and lows, Whole Lotta Red is a polarising album. Though the second half seems to make up for the of work – especially since fans have been waiting ages. Despite this, Whole Lotta Red is not bad by all means. Carti is at his most experimental sonically, pushing the boundaries of mainstream, standard rap that occupies the charts. Hemma Daddral
Channel Tres - i can’t go outside Channel Tres serves us with the pre-pandemic nostalgia we’ve all been craving in his EP ‘i can‘t go outside‘. Throwing us into an ‘intro‘ where he lights up, writes up, and begins to sew a smooth groove beneath his hazy stories in seclusion, we can’t help but hear the shattered vignettes of 2020 try to piece themselves together. And so, his nervous drum beats reverse, rewind and then replay into ‚2000 chevy malibu‘, a memory of careless teenage wonder as Channel sun-sedated mumbles, which then takes us on a ride through the EP’s entirety. Since 2018, Channel’s been on the map for blending the boundaries between hip-Chicago-house and soul-machine Detroit techno. With ‚skate depot‘, he brings a certain sensuality found only of this blend, and layers it with the sweet sound of West Coast rap, going
Yet, what’s left behind is this undeniable sense of longing; the desire to trip in your own tracks without the nauseating fear of the future. ‘fuego‘, a collaboration which reverbs Tyler the Creator’s Goblin era, snaps between these beats of Charlie Mingus, the upbeat instrumental carries the weight of their sexually loaded
Fusing elements of the soulful and simple Detroit techno with the Compton-kissed G-funk off by proclaiming that he’s working on even better things, leaving us with high hopes for the future Kareina Khubchand Daswani
Image credit GHE20G0TH1K
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In the Middle
THE HISTORY OF GTA RADIO Picture this: It’s somewhere between the years 2000 and 2008. You’ve just come in from school and you leg it up the stairs to your room. You rip off your school jumper and chuck your bag onto your bed. You switch on whatever console is popular at the time. The most along with the opening music. Be it the ‘80s style theme of Vice City or that iconic bassline of the San Andreas theme, you know you’re in for some good tunes. The GTA series is renowned for its prodigious soundtrack. Players can choose from a plethora of radio stations whilst cruising around the streets. Each radio station has a different vibe. The last GTA release in 2013 boasts over 15 stations, ranging from reggae all the way to country. It’s fun to blast out some great music whilst enjoying the San Andreas sunset or looking out over the Alamo sea. fruition in 1997 as the brainchild of Scottish video game programmer David Jones and designer Mike Dailly. Gameplay was completely different. Both GTA 1 and 2 were created as two-dimensional worlds from a bird’s eye perspective. This meant that there was no pulling up to Cluckin’ Bell to get a ‘Cluckin’ Huge Meal’; no swinging by Binco to dress CJ remained constant throughout the series: the radio stations. instalment of the series had 7 stations, each with three songs (with the exception of ‘The Fergus Buckner Show’, which plays just one song). Each song in the original GTA was created by artists at Rockstar Games. Alongside the game, players would receive a CD so they could listen to the tracks elsewhere. It was this kind of marketing strategy that cemented the radio stations as a vital part of the game. the radio stations expanded too. They began to play recognisable real-life music such as Depeche Mode, Michael Jackson and Guns ‘N’ Roses, to name a few. They also have a roster of celebrity presenters and hosts. GTA V’s ‘Non-Stop-Pop FM’ is hosted by supermodel Cara Delevigne, whilst legendary songwriter Kenny Loggins has us listening to tunes such as Olivia Newton-John’s ‘Physical’ and Pearl Jam’s ‘Black Betty’. Axl Rose of Guns ‘N’ Roses poses as DJ Tommy Smith on the station ‘K-DST’ GTA San Andreas, playing songs such as ‘Strutter’ by Kiss. A new update to GTA Online has just added three new radio stations, with hosts Joy Orbison and Julian Casablancas. The radio hosts are an asset to the games, often making interesting and funny comments about the songs playing and life itself. factors. Many fans of the series’ have discovered much-loved tracks whilst zooming through the streets of Los Santos or hurtling down the hills of Vinewood. Playlists of the radio stations can be found on Spotify, boasting thousands of followers; their impact and effect on GTA players has truly been incredible.
Millie Vietri
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Georgia Boyce @georgiaboyce_art
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In the Middle
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Music and Clubs
In the Middle with
Bombay Bicycle Club Few albums are so permanently burned into the psyche of young twenty-somethings than Bombay Bicycle Club’s debut album, I Had the Blues But I Shook Them Loose. Just before the world was swallowed up by the coronavirus pandemic, the band held a ten-year anniversary show in Brixton, playing the album in its entirety. Recordings from the night in question have recently been released noughties indie rock. The band wrote and recorded I Had the Blues… when they were still teenagers, and it acts as a talisman for every DIY-minded adodebut album, which for most bands is the most poignant and special record,” Jack Steadman, lead singer and creative architect, tells making”.
music. You’re not sure whether other people are even going to hear om”. Jack is incredibly soft spoken. Once that becomes successful then you’re forever thinking about your fans and the image of your band in the public eye and stuff that is always hard to avoid. Does
to be inspired by new ideas and honing his experimental edge gives there is a beauty in continuing to create and innovate. two years didn’t work out the way it planned, a cancelled world tour strange to release a live album in a world that currently has no live
experience. Obviously, no record can replicate that, but we’ve tried to get it as close to the real thing as possible”. one that always got their inspiration from travelling. I don’t think staying at home and making sourdough bread is the most inspiring environment to be in”. I am slightly surprised by this statement – it seems that as a frequent solo traveller he would be perfectly built for
things”.
writing a great piece of music”.
tiful about not being experienced and being naïve. You can practice
Amid the troubles of isolation, Jack has found solace in the discove-
to learn how to do that again. That innocence found in the songwriting of your early music is something you can’t go and take a course on or go to school for - it’s almost impossible for you to be a kid making mistakes again”.
loads of records which is quite dangerous. The best thing to do right now is buy music, taking some time to maybe buy some new records and support some musicians that you love. It’s kind of a win/win cos
Looking back, too, it is clear to see how I Had the Blues… contained the beginnings of their explorations to new horizons, embryonic suggestions of how the band would shapeshift from that point forward.
you and what’s happening in your life”. Even though Jack can get lost exploring a world of new music in his bedroom, his creative process necessitates human interaction and a supportive network. It’s impossible for him to tell when a song
last song we recorded, and it represented pushing boundaries a bit more on new music in the future. I remember the producer, Jim Ab-
demo and send it to everyone, and I know it’s great when someone
like that?” cos he really loved that we were getting more into experimenting and playing around more with weird sounds. That was such an exciting feeling for me”.
ten minutes after you’ve sent it your phone starts ringing: that’s the
overshadowed by his earlier success, especially given that the band in the back of your mind,” Jack admits, but it seems that continuing
Ishmael Silvestro Images: mmm...records
13
In The Middle
The good the bad and the uglY:
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A recap of 2020‘s most iconic fashion trends
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Asap Rock
Tie-dye: This nostalgic trend dominated lockdown fashion, with everyone sporting brightly coloured homemade creations. Hoodies, joggers, tops, socks, underwear, you name it, everything was being tie-dyed. But tie-dye wasn’t just a trend, it was also an activity, and it seemed as though the boredom of lockdown brought on a DIY element to 2020 fashion. Despite not being everyone’s cup of tea, tiedye has definitely become one of the most memorable trends of the year.
The main takeaway from 2020’s trends is how we can adapt to new situations through fashion. Despite the obstacles the fashion industry faced this year, lockdown looks redefined the trends of the year, with the ultimate goal of comfort changing the fashion landscape for the foreseeable future.
Everything brown: A more neutral colour palette ruled late 2020, and the colour brown defined winter fashion. Brown became the new black this year, with everyone sporting brown tops, trousers, jackets and more. The popularity of the 70s inspired colour
Natalie Mellor
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Sweater vests: The colder months of 2020 introduced the biggest knitwear trend of the year: the sweater vest. Despite previously being seen as ‘ugly’ or ‘uncool’, the sweater vest has managed to become one of the most coveted items of clothing in 2020. Celebrities including Harry Styles and Bella Hadid have pioneered the trend, turning ‘grandad chic’ into the newest look. The oversized sweater vest and shirt dress combination has dominated Instagram feeds, and will most likely continue to do so in 2021.
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Britney Spears
Tennis skirts: Speaking of trend revivals, the tennis skirt was back in full force this summer. Scrolling through Instagram in summer 2020 felt like scrolling through your 2014 teenage Tumblr dashboard, with everyone wearing tennis skirts and the sweatshirt and collar combination. Although American Apparel is no longer on the scene, its legacy lives on through thepopularity of the tennis skirt.
craze has even made it more expensive. The brown North Face puffer jacket is selling for £500 on depop, with everyone wanting to get their hands on the most coveted outerwear of 2020.
Na
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mopolition
‘Y2k’ revival: With a 20-year style cycle bringing the fashion from the 2000s into the 2020s, ‘y2k’ fashion has made a massive comeback this year. Noughties staple brands like Juicy Couture and Von Dutch have resurfaced, with even major high-street brand Urban Outfitters collaborating
with Juicy Couture for several highly popular, exclusive collections. A highlight of 2020 fashion was the matching tracksuit making a comeback, combining the y2k revival with Vogue the ‘stay at home’ loungewear of 2020. Don’t expect the ‘y2k’ trend to go away any time soon, as 2021 brings expectations of even wilder noughties staples, including the exposed g-string and low-rise jeans.
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Undeniably, 2020 has not been a normal year for fashion. Adapting to a pandemic, the world of fashion has changed indefinitely. With cancelled shows, changing consumer habits and the rise of loungewear, the ‘stay at home’ message has been at the forefront of fashion. This year, has seen an emphasis on comfort, DIY and adaptability. Here’s a recap of 2020’s biggest trends: the good, the bad, and the ugly.
2021 trend predicitions:
Fashion
It‘s out with the old...
The tumultuous year of 2020 saw us all unexpectedly trade in our hopes of Roaring 20’s chic for the undeniable comfort of pyjama bottoms and sweatshirt combos. Although we have been conditioned to the ease and lack of effort of joggers and baggy hoodies due to spending the majority of the year inside, the year ahead looks promising in moving us out of this fashion slump. So, what trends are going to transition us from the woes of 2020 to, hopefully, a brighter 2021?
The North Face
Urban Outfitters
Missguided
Von
Dut ch
...and in with the new
Von Dutch caps, tiny sunglasses and baby doll t-shirts: the influence of y2k fashion has undeniably infiltrated our wardrobes over the past few years. With Juicy Couture tracksuits and the revival of brands like Fiorucci growing in popularity, this 2000s Bratz doll-esque aesthetic doesn’t seem to be going anywhere. Specifically, low-rise/ mid-rise bootcut jeans seem to be in store for the next year. Before panic sets in, swapping out your high-rise baggy jeans for a skinnier, more fitted option may just be the answer to updating our everyday outfit choices. Radiating big Destiny’s Child, Britney Spears energy, authentic 2000s brands like True Religion are the best port of call for acquiring the perfect low-rise look. As we move optimistically into a new year, the transition out of homebody, minimal effort outfits doesn’t have to be drastic. Spicing up a simple tracksuit with a few touches and calling it an acceptable outfit to be worn out in public is exactly what 2021 needs. Smaller businesses have taken advantage of people’s desire for comfort and have grown exponentially on platforms like Instagram over the past year. Incorporating the trendy y2k influence on casual tracksuits, brands like @unknownuk and @tygerbc are examples of brands bejewelling hoodies, joggers and t-shirts to achieve a subtler ode to 2000s fashion. Understated yet distinctive, swapping out your faded, overly worn trackies for an Unknown London tracksuit can be the perfect transition for all your casual, streetwear needs. Though a Juicy Couture bejewelled tracksuit can be tempting, supporting small fashion businesses is the key to creating a unique, refreshing wardrobe for the new year. Though the infamous North Face puffer will forever hold a soft spot in our hearts, switching up your outerwear can elevate your new look for 2021. Swapping out this exaggerated silhouette for a trench coat can add that extra touch to an otherwise simple outfit. Compatible with pretty much everything in your wardrobe, a neutral mid-length trench can create the illusion that you’re actually making an effort on your trip to the supermarket. Experimenting with PVC panelling and contrast lapels, make a statement with something a bit different for the new year. With stores like ASOS providing dupes and alternatives for the classic Burberry trench, the supermodel casual look is achievable whilst not breaking the bank. Adding simple yet effective touches to your everyday outfit through accessories has always been a sure-fire way to elevate your look. In 2021, the popularity of resin, home-made jewellery is overtaking the desire for flashy, expensive accessories. As I mindlessly scroll through my TikTok ‘for you‘ page, I frequently come across people crafting their very own acrylic, oversized rings and resin earrings. Inspired by retro Korean fashion, these colourful, chunky accessories are growing in popularity and many Etsy stores are stocking wide varieties of acrylic accessories. Alternatively, brands like Oliver Bonas are notorious for their vibrant resin earrings, which range from classic hoops to more experimental geometric shapes. Investing in a few, key pieces and adding them to your everyday jewellery rotation this year will undeniably enliven your outfits.
Paguro Upcycle
tyger bc
With the aftermath of 2020 still looming as we enter the new year, updating your wardrobe can really act as a reset button for those of us clinging on to the hope for a better year – whatever that may hold. Whether it be retail therapy or a creative outlet, experimenting with a new look with a few simple touches may be what we all need as we walk into 2021.
Hemma Daddral Burberry
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the covid-19 effect
Fashion
Has the pandemic permanately altered the fashion industry? Gemma Lavers investigates.
THE DRESS CODE
FROM STORE TO SITE
We’ll begin with tracksuits and athleisure wear. Not the all-grey Adidas ensemble we are all so familiar with, I’m talking about tie-dye and neutrals. Unlike the uncoordinated hoodie and tracksuit bottom combo, a matching tracksuit offers those working from home a solution to look smarter, more presentable, but comfortable at the same time. The evolution of the matching tracksuit has continued throughout the entire year, as in the summer months, when the lockdown was lifted and the thirty-person bubble was part of government guidelines (oh, how times change), tie-dye tracksuits were hugely popular. The brighter colour
However, it is not just fashion trends that Covid-19 has altered, as the industry itself has faced some unprecedented changes too. The pandemic has meant that fashion retailers have had to adapt their marketing strategies, as they were left with no choice but to move
the sunshine was out and so were people. Generally in the winter months, more monotonal and neutral colours tend to come in as people prefer a muted tone, and we have again
smaller businesses needed this connection fast, and in bulk. Although, the pandemic has led to an entire industry rethink as businesses are seeing Covid-19 as a unique opportunity to strategize a connection with buyers, and this may come through becoming more ethical and transparent in their production process. This could see businesses which are more traditional in their approach and reluctant to change struggling further, as they refuse to become a part of the online digital sphere and address their corporate social responsibility.
MASKS
SUSTAINABILITY IS KEY
As the bane of our lives yet the most important accessory we can own, it is fair to say that people have embraced mask-wearing as a fashion statement, with many matching shadowed the future, as masks were seen on the catwalk long before Covid-19 was part
due to the fact that people have had spare time to sew, knit and create. Also, people had time sort out their wardrobes and donate, or sell, any unwanted items, on sites like
pandemic is over. 2020 has meant that trends have adapted and become less about impressing people and more about being comfortable and wearing items that make you feel good.
to go, people are not just buying a top to wear out once. The sustainable future of fashion has always been consumer-driven – people want their clothes to come from ethical processes, to shop from a sustainable, ethical company, or from a corporation who utilise sweatshops pression and sustainability has never been so important and most importantly, a year which has shown us that fashion has the ability to unite people, even if we are physically apart.
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In The Middle
Face masks: a modern wardrobe staple Nerea Zambrano looks at the evolution of the most essential accessory right now: the face mask Now an essential piece, face masks have evolved before our very eyes. Long are the days where the common choice was between the blue surgical and N95 valve masks. Or, if feeling bold, changing the colours of these. We now see much more varied look by stepping out into the street. They have even made it into the runway. Back last January, when the pandemic was a mere worry in the distance, mask-wearers would get be greeted with eyebrow raises. Now we have been thrown into a coronavirus crash course we know better (anti-maskers aside). It wasn’t until early June that WHO deemed masks necessary for indoor environments. But they had already become a common sight when stepping outdoors. Online businesses around handmade masks and face covers were booming by the spring, with $346 million worth of these sold on Etsy. From silk and satin to cotton, classy colour block ones to the most whimsical patterns you could think of, there was something for everyone. Some were rather questionable, like Lana Del Rey’s infamous mesh mask (although apparently there was a plastic layer inside) and let’s not forget those ‘breathable’ tulle masks. masks, and Ariana Grande’s rhinestone piece most likely set it off. Meanwhile, Je-
no wonder designer brands like Burberry and Louis Vuitton came to capitalise on it. Unfortunately, copying your favourite celebrity‘s look is not going to be as easy anymore. In true noughties fashion, currently the trending decade, the logomania 2020 Grammys, before the whole world went downhill, she wore a mask made -
from the ironic (‘Stay Away’, ‘Over This’ by PLT) to the contemplative, with messages like ‘Fearless Future’ and ‘Protect What You Love’, sold by The Good AppaIt is no wonder people wanted to combat the anti-social nature of it all. After the successful year face masks have had, paraded around streets and fashion runways alike, it is hard to believe they will ever disappear. And if they do, they will undoubtedly come back in a couple of decades when 2020 becomes an aesthetic and we are forced to relive the tension of awaiting the next Boris announcement.
With A-List celebs showing off the most expensive-looking facial coverings, it is Nerea Zambrano
12 Image: Vogue
Image: Vogue
Arts & Culture
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Jorge Hopkins Wang
Jorge Hopkins Wang is a visual artist and designer based in Leeds. He is currently studying Digital Media and practices photography, as well as videography, graphic design, and UI design. Jorge moved to the UK from Beijing at just 17 years of age to pursue his creative career. He regularly posts photographs of his travels to Japan and day-to-day walks in Leeds on his Instagram: @jor.graphy
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I used to label myself as a street-photographer but now rather you’d get a smack in the face if you say ‘I’m a street photographer’…now I’m a zoo because zoos have different animals in it, a visual zoo, a visualisation of life and stories…
“When I’m alone, taking pictures is like dreaming. I can’t remember when I set off, when I bumped into that place, until I look back at my pictures and they all make sense. They collect my memories together, like a jigsaw puzzle, and you get the whole picture. Photography is how I have fun, how I become myself, and has sort of
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B A L A N C E
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course!
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C O L O U R
Every time I go out, I step out the door, only carrying my fanny-pack with my card and money, my phone, and my camera – and a mask of
shaped my understanding of people.”
Images: Jorge Hopkins Wang
In The Middle
I’ve known Jorge’s work for a while and I’ve seen him photograph in person - now I’ve had the pleasure to discuss his creative journey so far with him. Jorge has been taking photos throughout his whole life, but a year ago he decided to develop the mindset of continuously taking photos. During his travels in Japan and his daily walks in Leeds, Jorge would take at least one photo a day, randomly and for pure fun, until the UK entered the first COVID-19 lockdown in March. Buried under the stress of lockdown, as well as carrying out graphic and web design commissions, Jorge thought to return to his archive and discovered nearly 1000 photos from his time in Japan; “I tried to filter through which ones were good and which ones were bad and to my surprise there were a few really good captures…Some of them tell a story – that’s how I find a good photograph. Whether or not its perfectly clear, in focus or not, so long as it tells a story, it’s a good photograph. Sort of reignited my spark again.” Jorge’s photographic style crosses the boundaries of street photography and explores the realms of art and documentary photography. Much of his influence comes from these different styles of photography, including the work of Nan Goldin, Niall McDiarmid, and Shin Noguchi.
During our conversation Jorge noted Noguchi’s ability to “find the unpredictability of life that is worth photographing” as well as the ability of documentary photographers to rediscover photographs, to make you look back and see differences and details you didn’t notice before. This element of re-discovery and creative interpretation is evident throughout Jorge’s entire body of photographs. The viewer is able to constantly look back and discover a new story or detail in each of his photos. Jorge also gains inspiration from watching POV videos of other photographers, and learns photography skills and techniques from YouTuber and freelance photographer, Jamie Windsor. Jorge shoots on a wide range of cameras, but regularly shoots on the Fujifilm XT30 and more recently the Fujifilm XE3. Both are excellent for street photography as they are lightweight, portable and have incredible dynamic range. However, Jorge doesn’t think too much when he’s taking his photos – he leaves that to the editing process. In fact, Jorge doesn’t look through the viewfinder, as he finds this too confrontational and prolongs the time to take a photo. Instead, he holds it far from his eye, sees what’s on the screen and just takes.
He also likes to listen to a wide range of music whilst on his photo-walks, from Turkish psychedelic folk to eastern European jazz; “jazz is improvisation and taking candid photographs is improvisation as well.” Jorge edits his photos using Adobe Lightroom Classics and has different processes for different photos. He categorises his photos and has pre-sets for each category. For photos taken during the day, he normally uses soft colour tones, defining the oranges and reds. For photos taken during the night, he emulates a Kodak Portra 500look, with diffused orangey-red lighting and green mid-tones. For black-and-white photos, he cranks black-to-black, and white-to-white, creating stark contrasts whilst preserving as much detail as possible. He also uses the smartphone app Polar to add the white border to his images before uploading to Instagram. Jorge possesses a deeply personal, emotional, and intellectual connection with photography; he compares the process of taking photos to time travel and describes it as being in a dreamlike state. By consistently taking photos and continuing to train his creative eye, he is able to find anything – and everything – photographable. For more examples of his work, you can follow Jorge’s Instagram account @jor.graphy Maariyah Fulat
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Arts & Culture
HORRIBLE HISTORIES AND MARCUS RASHFORD:
BBC LAUNCH LOCKDOWN LESSONS As we enter our third national lockdown, households up and down the country are reminded of March: working from home, being stuck in the house, and online school. For many parents this means a balancing act of maintaining a full-time job whilst educating their children, and for children this means a re-adjustment to online learning, with varying levels of support and access to education across the country. From the 11th January, the BBC has been offering an improvement, if not a solution, to this problem, by broadcasting educational programmes throughout the day for both primary and secondary school children. In previous lockdowns this has been available online, or on the red button, however it is now being broadcast on main-stream channels daily. The BBC hopes this will help lower income families who can’t afford the resources which are needed for their children to fully engage with online school, such as laptops or mobile data. One of the growing concerns surrounding the pandemic is
the widening of the education gap between workingclass families and those with more privilege. In September 2020, research from the National Foundation for Educational Research found that the gap between disadvantaged pupils and wealthier pupils had widened by 46% compared to July 2019. Could this BBC initiative help these families keep their children engaged and learning? The BBC is currently offering programmes for all ages. Starting at 9am, CBBC broadcasts three 20 minute episodes of ‘BiteSize’ curriculum based content, with the first week focusing on Maths, English, Science and French. This is followed by episodes of well-loved educational programmes such as Horrible Histories and Art Ninja. The programme also sees a daily 10 minute lesson from a different ‘Celebrity Supply Teacher’, such as Heston Blumenthal teaching Food Science, Creative Writing by Geri Horner and Marcus Rashford running a P.E lesson. For secondary school children, BBC 2 shows an hour of curriculum-based content followed by additional content such as documentary-style episodes and drama adaptations. These programmes aim to strike a balance between complimenting a child’s school teaching and keeping them interested.
The government has taken some steps to help low-income families, with the Department for Education currently offering free mobile data provision when applied for by the school on a child’s behalf. They have also been providing laptops for disadvantaged children, however the BBC recently reported problems and concerns with this scheme, as the rollout seems to have been unorganised and insufficient in some places. It is essential that the government continues to address this problem so that all children have access to their education. The BBC’s new scheme will hopefully give children a welcoming and friendly community to continue to learn in, when they may otherwise be feeling particularly demotivated and isolated.The addition of celebrities will particularly help with this - seeing a famous face encouraging them to learn could provide well-needed motivation for lots of children. While the BBC’s scheme is no solution to the access to education problem across the UK, it will definitely help both parents and pupils feel more positive at the start of the New Year. Maddy Murdoch
However, whilst the scheme will provide students with an alternative resource to consolidate their learning, and parents with a break in home-schooling, is it enough? Everyone loves a Horrible Histories sing-along, but this is not equivalent to an hour of live teaching.
Image: BBC, Pesmaster
RuPaul’s Drag Race UK: Is Season Two set to be the harshest in Drag Race herstory? To celebrate the second series of RuPaul‘s Bugel will be bringing you their hot takes via their new weekly online column. But episode 1... Warning: this piece contains spoilers! Amidst the chaos and sadness a pandemic-induced lockdown brings, season two of RuPaul’s Drag Race UK was a welcome tonic. As Season One arrived on our screens in autumn 2019, drag race fans were anxious: would this flop? Would the world understand British drag? And yet the opposite became true: the first season was a complete hit, and drag race fans the world over lapped it up. RuPaul himself quickly became obsessed with saying “alright hun?”, and American fans followed suit: some had no clue what was going on, but loved it regardless. The premiere of Season Two was a complete delight. All week, I’d been counting down the minutes until 7pm on Thursday, when I could finally absorb what I expected to be the most diverse premiere of drag race yet. And I wasn’t wrong: when Ginny Lemon walked into the workroom dressed head to toe in yellow,( furry hat included) I knew I was in for a treat. Fancy a slice? The British drag scene is incredibly diverse: the
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fact that one small island can produce such an array of gender-queering talent astounds me. To be at a place where drag personas like Bimini Bon Boulash and Ginny Lemon can compete in the same competition brings me such queer joy.
Season Two set to be the harshest in Drag Race herstory? Tia Kofi was “safe” with that questionable Alan Turing drag which has been transformed into a hilarious meme by Twitter gays the world over.
To begin with, the queens of season two were tasked with the brilliant ‘Wimbled’hun’ mini-challenge, of which the linguistic genius is unfounded. With tennis balls thrown left right and centre, the contestants were showcased their best poses, papped by celebrity photographer Kevin McDaid. McDaid has worked with the likes of Jessie J, Cheryl, and Rita Ora, so the pressure was certainly on.
Similarly, Sister Sister’s brilliance was wildly slept on, if you’ll pardon the pun: her Scouse gal rollers and pyjamas look was genius. I was profoundly shocked to see Joe, Bimini, and Sister Sister land in the bottom three, whilst two separate, fairly weak Robin Hoods from Tia and A’Whora respectively were let slide. We get it, you’re from Nottingham. Next.
British drag is often more political, more punky, and less polished than its US counterpart. In an interview with PinkNews, Joe Black perfectly epitomised the essence of British drag: "Female illusion is not what drag is...it’s the fantasy, the transformation, it’s transportive, it can be so many things...Pop stars, a lot of that is drag, Mae West was drag, Marlene Dietrich was drag." Bang on. This sentiment shone through in the runway, and I was astounded to see Bimini make the bold choice of Princess Julia as gay icon and overjoyed to see Ellie Diamond represent Lily Savage. I was mildly disappointed that no one chose Charity Shop Sue or Heather Trott, but fair enough. Too niche? It’s safe to say that the judging of episode 1 seemed fairly off, and begs the question: is
In one of the most controversial eliminations in drag race herstory, Joe Black sadly became the PorkChop, or Gothy Kendoll, of Season Two. Here, there is an argument to be made regarding American judges swanning in and claiming expertise on British culture. Of course, Michelle and Ru were supported by British counterparts Graham Norton and Elizabeth Hurley, but many found the judges’ comments on Joe Black’s looks concerning.
Image: IMDb
too picky of me, but it doesn’t take expertise to identify this iconic Bowie look. And that Brighton Pavilion look? Iconic. Yes, the Pav is gold on the inside, judges. At least we were fed with that lip-sync to queer anthem ‘Relax’ by Frankie Goes To Hollywood. It’s safe to say that this season’s premiere took many twists and turns, from emotional DMCs (for the Americans: this stands for deep, meaningful conversation) to the gaggery of Cherry’s Freddie Mercury, this season is certainly set to be the most competitive, most entertainting in drag race herstory. Eleanor Noyce
For his gay icon look, Joe dragged himself up as quintessential, Life On Mars Bowie. With an innovative take on the blue suit, which Joe transformed into a floating dress, ginger, sparkling wig co-starring, he was told his “Ziggy lacked Stardust.” Maybe this is Image: TransGriot
In The Middle
Instagram Activism & Its PastelColoured Classroom It only took a far-right Trumpist coup on the US government for people to start making fun of Instagram activism, specifically the Twitter user @AJ_Jeremiah (bæ J). Yet it wasn’t long before bæ J started receiving replies defending the satirical infographics, and after that, their unironic posting on Instagram was inevitable. I won’t waste words explaining what Instagram activism is. These days it’s hard to not be familiar with it. Besides, others have already done a far better job than I could ever do covering diverse topics such as the aesthetics and history of infographics (hint: it can be traced back to W. E. B. du Bois) and debating the extent to which it becomes performative or optical activism or allyship. All I plan to do is to lay out my thoughts and concerns for Instagram activism, what I believe the infographics have added to our lives and how they have complicated things. I have lots of questions and far fewer answers.
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Are we dumbing down serious, systematic issues in society? Those who explain these issues are obviously severely lacking in content and scope. There is often only a short paragraph, or chart on each slide, and sometimes it feels like more effort goes into making the slideshows aesthetically pleasing than educational. Yet, the best infographics acknowledge the shortcomings of Instagram as a medium and point users to other, more comprehensive resources across a diversity of media. And action beyond self-education: there are petitions to sign, protests to go to, fundraisers to donate to. For what it’s worth, I think these latter actions, the crowdsourcing, the “link in my bio” is where Instagram really thrives.
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Does the constant posting casualise instead of raising awareness? Are we changing people’s expectations of learning about racism, about genocide? Compared to attractive, easy to digest infographics, would the challenging, complex, even contradictory work, that infographics direct users to engage with still be accessible or achievable?
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If we are saying that Instagram activism is engaging more people, then logically these are the people who don’t engage in other forms of self-education. But then what are we saying about these people? That they will only read about racism when it has a pastel colour scheme? And I’m sure for some people this is, unfortunately, true. But then, in this form that bæ J so brilliantly satirised, is this still productive or meaningful?
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A major issue with the infographics is the lack of sources, the lack of accountability. Too often statistics are neatly arranged without knowing where they came from. Obviously this is not just a problem with Instagram, it’s systemic to the internet, as well as media in all its forms. From what I’ve seen this is improving somewhat. Now it’s the norm to at least credit the researcher in the description.
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Perhaps the amateurism of infographics, the fact that almost anyone can make one with a quick bit of research plus the graphic design app Canva, is a move beyond the elitism of academism. Particularly when it comes to race, we know that representation is a severe issue in universities, especially in my subject–history–where only 0.5% of academic staff in the UK are black. The beauty of social media is that it gives an audience to anyone with an internet connection.
When it comes to optical allyship, I think the crux of the debate comes down to the fact that a user can add the post to their story, to encourage their followers to learn about the issue, or more cynically, to demonstrate their wokeness to followers. Yet here I use wokeness not as a pejorative. I use it to mean an attempt to empathise, understand and be inclusive of others, particularly those marginalised in society. Wokeness, and a public desire to be perceived as woke, is something we should see as a positive. And especially for Instagram, which encourages users to brag about how perfect their life, body and partner is. And this is why I quit Instagram when I was 16, frustrated with how personal, how self-absorbed it all felt. I’m encouraged to see debates I’ve seen on other social media coming to Instagram, albeit in its flawed, Instagrammable way.
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Harriet Purbrick
Image: @AJ_Jeremiah on Twitter
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In The Middle
2021: What‘s to Come?
Images top to bottom: Dune (Empire), Sex Education (Deadline), Malcolm & Marie (Variety), Peaky Blinders (HiClipart), Dear White People (Guardian), French Dispatch (IndieWire)
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Arts & Culture
The Best Film and TV Coming in 2021 Film:
Malcolm and Marie (dir. Sam Levinson), February
- is sure to dish out the usual, enticing visual feast
Having blossomed from her Disney Channel days into the youngest ever winner of the Emmy for Best Drama Actress, Zendaya has shown her ability to own complex characters. Malcolm and Marie,
beam_me_up_softboi).
restraints, focuses on the strained relationship between Zendaya’s character and onscreen husband, played by John David Washington (Tenet). Both ac-
ee Chalamet, Zendaya, and Oscar Isaac, is guaranteed to be a visual, Oscar-baiting treat. Those
the trailer showing an explosive and highly watchable dynamic between the two. No Time to Die (dir. Cary Joji Fukunaga), April TWICE due to the pandemic, Bond fans will be glad to hear that No Time to Die is intended to Bridge (of Fleabag and Killing Eve fame) involved to the Bond series.
Dune (dir. Denis Villeneuve), October
Beth Harmon, everyone’s favourite tortured chess player), plus psychological horror, is certain to produce some stylish and gripping results. The French Dispatch (dir. Wes Anderson), May some of us (including me) don’t always get the
Gossip Girl (dir. Karena Evans), Expected Late 2021 brow series coming out this year. That being said,
and how visually pleasing Dune is then sure to be. -
Television:
as well as generating some serious wardrobe inspiration. With the original producers reprising their roles for this reboot, as well as social media being pushed to the fore, this is sure to be a hit. Sex Education Season 3 (created by Laurie Nunn),
heart-wrenching, loveable programmes you can
Dear White People Season 4 (dir. Justin Simien),
storylines of students behind the radio station Dear
Last Night in Soho (dir. Edgar Wright), April
dreams this year.
nizing Maeve-Otis relationship drama, this is a programme rich in phenomenal, nuanced characters whom seeing again would brighten a dampened
highlights systemic issues of racial inequality both in the education system, and beyond. A great cast, and history of engaging plotlines will surely deem this an excellent watch. Brideshead Revisited (dir. Luca Guadagnino), Release TBC, BBC
Peaky Blinders Series 6 (dir. Anthony Byrne), Excents may be, this programme has certainly captivated viewers for years with the dynamic and
those familiar with Call Me By Your Name director
helping draw this seven stage series to what we can safely assume will be an explosive close,
cerning the intense internal politics of an aristocrat-
a year where, so far, the most exciting thing we’ve been able to do is go to Morrisons.
dreamy style, is sure to satiate many period drama
Mia Fulford
The gryphon-line: The arts and culture editors‘s top stream picks app was the equivalent of my outbuted by Hulu, covering westernising
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of ways. With the brilliant Elle Fanning
Tim Key is funny and so is his poetry,
nitely worth a watch. Huzzah!
magic is made.
Owen Frost
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Sinead O‘Riordan
Images: BBC, Channel 4
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Blogs & Lifestyle
BLOGS & LIFESTYLE
Living Green: Eco-friendlY apps helping you go one green footprint forward Anyone who has been watching David Attenborough’s 2021 series A Perfect Planet has surely been pushed into considering environmental impacts on our beautiful Earth. With greenhouse gas emissions on the rise and ecological pollution levels very high, it’s hard to accept the rhetoric that the individual can do little but sit back and accept the inevitable destruction. But maintaining a green lifestyle doesn’t have to drastically inconvenience us. In actuality, there are a range of apps and websites which can help us fight climate change and positively impact our green footprints…
Too Good To Go
I honestly can’t rave about this app enough. Not only is it great for preventing food wastage, it’s ideal for students struggling on a budget. It is a free app which allows you to purchase unsold food at a greatly reduced price. This means that leftover food won’t end up decomposing in landfills, hence CO2 emissions are reduced. Top restaurants which participate regularly within Leeds include: YO! Sushi!, Simpatico Pizza (located in Queen‘s Arcade), Rola Wala and Barburrito. And, lots of on-campus cafes also offer reduced food on the app.
Depop
We all know an ‘edgy Leeds’ fashionista who lives for Depop fashion. But do you also recognise the beneficial impact that buying second-hand clothes can have on the planet? Recycling your old clothes and buying second hand promotes a much more sustainable relationship with fashion. The garments life is extended, rejecting the unsustainable fast-fashion industry. However, you may need to watch out for some sellers that take advantage of Depop to sell cheap thrifted items at extortionate prices. Image: Logos Discovery Engine
‘LIVING GREEN’ IS A FEATURE THAT FOCUSES ON SUSTAINABLE LIVING. THROUGH THIS, WE HOPE TO AID OUR FELLOW STUDENTS IN BECOMING MORE ENVIRONMENTALLY AWARE. THESE ARTICLES GIVE ADVICE, HELPFUL INFORMATION AND REVIEWS ON SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTS, IN ORDER TO BRING ATTENTION TO THE ISSUES AND SOLUTIONS WE FIND, AS EDITORS AND WRITERS, ON OUR JOURNEY TO LIVING GREENER.
World Of Books
For any literature nerds out there, or even those of us trying to console ourselves in lockdown by getting lost in a good book, this is the site for you. World of Books buy unsold used books, many of which were previously destined for landfill, and give them a second life. The perfect way to avoid contributing to Jeff Bezo’s net worth. Even better – there is currently an offer giving customers an extra 20% off when 4 or more books are purchased!
Good On You
Ever wondered just how much your favourite brands are contributing to staying green? We can often feel out of the loop when it comes to exposing bad practises, especially when they’re already so normalised in fashion brand circles. This app gives sustainable ratings for stores which allows consumers to gain knowledge concerning the impact of their favourite brands on the environment. Ratings, sustainability tips, guides and style advice are made very easily accessible by this app so environmentally beneficial choices are easily within our grasp.
Ecosia
This website is a search engine that should replace Google for sure. Every time you make a search on the site, Ecosia uses the income to plant trees, helping to reverse climate change and paving the way for a carbon neutral planet. There’s also an easily downloadable app which makes it easy to search on the go. Sometimes it can feel like climate change is completely overwhelming and that any changes we could personally make are miniscule in comparison. But all change starts with the individual. It is our responsibility to help the planet and that’s never been easier than right now when a simple click or tap to download can help save our depleting environment. Megan Johnson
s k i c r T Tips and
1. Work backwards. During exam time we put a lot of pressure 3.Write a letter to yourself. I was sceptical at first on ourselves to complete lots of different tasks in one day. When it comes to deadlines this month it’s good to try and work backwards. It sounds a little confusing, I know, but it’s really helped me. See how long you have until a piece of work is due in or an exam and work out how much you need to do every day to cover the content you want. This may sound simple, but I use to get so frustrated at myself if I’d planned ten things to do in one day and I only did five. We’re under different circumstances and it’s hard to concentrate with so many distractions at home. So, my advice would be to not be so hard on yourself, have a short and concise list of what needs done each day, and reward yourself. In the words of Kris Jenner, “you’re doing amazing sweetie”.
too, but it is a great way to leave the troubles of the past in 2020. Address the letter to yourself with a date you want to open it on (mine is for 01/01/2022). Write in it what you hope to achieve, how you’re feeling in that moment, what you feel lucky to have but also what you want out of this year. It really helped me let go of 2020 and all the things I didn’t get to do and express what I want this year to bring me. Putting something on paper really helped me envision what I want and be content with what I’ve got. It put things into perspective for me and hopefully it will for you too.
4.Make a vision board. Specifically, second and third-
year students, pressure looms over what you want to do.
2.Read a book. I know you’re probably sick of reading second- Year abroad, placements, grad schemes etc. This amount of ary sources and critical opinions but trust me on this one. As an English Lit student, I used to adore reading (as you kind of have to) but the amount of information I had to read at uni made it feel like a chore. I’d put off reading things and I started lacking interest in authors and genres I use to love. I think we need to read more things we enjoy so we don’t resent the task itself. Even if it’s just ten pages a night, its better then being on your phone, and as cringey as it sounds it can help us escape this 2021 pandemic.
pressure can be hard to deal with but, rest assured there is a solution. Go on Pinterest or find photos that suit what you love and feel passionate about and make a vision board for this year. It’ll help you strive towards your goals but also help you figure out what you want to dedicate this year to, whether it be travel, getting fit, seeing more of your friends, getting a job etc. For me, looking at different pictures made me realise how much I want to travel (pandemic pending) so then I know I need to save up money and think about where I want to go and how long I can go for before uni starts again in September.
Credit: Redbubble
Some of these things sound simple, and I understand how difficult a time it is for everyone and how much stress we’re all under especially this month. This, however, doesn’t mean we can’t move on from 2020. If you are feeling particularly low this month, please try one of the things above and you may feel much better. Each task helps you put things into perspective in a time where are emotions are, rightfully so, all over the place. Remember to stay safe, it’s a new year, same you, but a better outlook. - Siobhan Dale x
In The Middle
How to bullet Journal Happy new year to all journalers and non-journalers! The arrival of the new year means a stressful, but exciting first few weeks for us devout bullet journalers (at least the ones who do the entire year‘s journaling all at once). Despite another lockdown cancelling all near-future plans, you’ll finally have time to start the bullet journal you may not know that you need! Bullet journals are a great way to sit down and have some you-time, as well as express and develop your creative side. I found myself reaching back for the same few things throughout this journal. I had no set colour scheme when I started out, but kept returning to green, brown, and black and white as I went, so the washi tape sets (from Amazon) I was gifted were perfect. Along with the classic Tombow dual brush pens, gelly roll pens and gel pens from Paperchase have also become a part of my holy grail.
My journals often radiate chaotic energy, and every month is usually themed differently as I’m so indecisive. I was, however, set on including quotes from my favourite literary pieces. They were thus the only reoccurring pattern in my journal, but you can journal an entire year using one theme if you prefer that!
All photos credited to Celina Tran
After all that painting I didn’t want the rest of my journal to look disappointing in comparison to January. Still, there was absolutely no way I would put that much time and effort into the next months. One thing that has always worked for me is outlines, especially of skylines. Thus, a few of my months consisted of black and white ’city’ themes; my laziness rendered me incapable of continously tracing real cities, most of the buildings are just random lines.
At first, I felt incredibly creative, as one usually does when starting out, and whipped out some cheap paint I’d bought from HobbyCraft. I’m no artist, but I love painting clouds, so I dedicated the month of January to that. Every week was a different colour, but all of them consisted a painting of clouds and a matching page for my planning.
ASK AUNT BONNIE
When bullet journaling, I often find my inspiration online - Pinterest is your best friend. I’ve really been loving the beige newspaper/ripped brown paper vibe, but I‘ve never had any brown paper laying around until now. Wrapping paper usually has a roll of stiff, brown paper on the inside, so after christmas I was left with endless amounts and it’s been my absolute go to this year. Along with washi tape and drawings of little plant pots, they helped make super cute little spreads. I would absolutely recommend using glue to stick it down though, as washi tape is more decorative. Whether you’ve journaled for a day or for years, these themes always work for me. Plants, buildings and the sky (whether it’s morning or night) are great and can be done in both simplistic and complicated styles. They’re a great to return to when you have no idea what to do. Perhaps bullet journaling is going to be your new 2021 hobby?. Celina Tran
Illustration: rawpixel.com
QUESTION How long is acceptable to go without washing your hair in lockdown?
QUESTION ANSWER This is a question I’m asking myself at this very moment too! I think every 2-3 days is normal but now might be the time to leave longer between
QUESTION
ANSWER I can imagine by now that dating apps have lost their excitement talking to someone maybe you could send each other small gifts – something that you want them to try or something you think they like
ANSWER Try not to go on your laptop or device that you completed your exams on and instead start reading a book that you have been wanting QUESTION to read or challenge yourself to walk a certain distance a day! Start feeling productive from daily exercise instead of from stressful exams What can I do to maintain a relationship in lockdown?
QUESTION How to keep in contact when nothing new is happening but feel lonely staying at home?
ANSWER time each day where you video call is helpful to establish some sort of
ANSWER I think everyone is struggling at the moment with this – zoom calls don’t and when things get back to normal you will have still maintained the Love from The Blogs Team xo
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Blogs & Lifestyle
transitioning to vegan hack it and love it!
Welcome to the w just dipping your t the long term, her most out of it. - Dani Abrams
What to expect Misconceptions
I can’t stress enough that the hardest part is adjusting. Transitioning your lifestyle dramatically is sure to create noticeable changes in your body at the start, but you soon won’t notice a difference; it gets easier as your mind and body adjust, I promise! It is normal to expect A LOT more bowel movements at the start of your transition as your body detoxes and as you feed it more fibre. Ultimately a healthy and positive change, although one to get used to. If you have acne/spots, your skin may clear up noticeably once removing dairy from your diet – (those hormones really were meant for the baby calves, not you). You may feel hungry significantly more… make sure you are eating enough protein and increasing portions sizes of veggies and make sure to listen to your body. When I went vegan, I often ended up eating an extra meal when my body asked for it. Craving non-vegan food. It is totally normal to crave what you are used to, especially products you love. Many people have cheese withdrawals, as cheese contains a high concentration of casomorphins, an addictive protein. I would recommend finding alternatives to your favourite products to make the transition easier. Relief knowing your diet is not exploiting animals and you have now taken the single biggest step to lower your impact on the planet. An increased consciousness and understanding of your body, health and habits. A new awareness of what is inside things and where they come from, food and non-food (get ready to become a label-checker). A paradigm shift and a new alignment of your values with your lifestyle, which will extend into other areas in your life.
• Vegans get no protein: no meat, no problem. Did you know that the stalk of a broccoli actually contains more protein than chicken? Green vegetables including broccoli, spinach and peas are very protein rich, as are nuts, seeds and legumes. Some staples are black beans, chickpeas, kidney beans and lentils which contain 9g of protein per 100g. These are all delicious in salads, curries or pasta or rice dishes. • Cost: veganism has somehow got a reputation of being expensive… this is mainly due to the prevalence of influencers promoting perfect, organic, superfood-filled lifestyles with luxury products. In reality, like any diet, the cost depends on what foods you eat, and not what you rule out, although cutting out meat will save you a lot of money. Branded alternatives and products are the most expensive, but if you mainly buy whole grains, fruits, vegetables and legumes, you will find this to be much more cost-effective. • Veganism isn’t better for the environment: Avoiding meat and dairy is the single biggest way to lower your impact on the planet, according to landmark documentary The Game Changers. By going vegan, you are no longer supporting food production that amplifies climate change, pushes wild animals towards extinction, promotes deforestation and pollutes rivers and oceans. If you want to make your diet even more sustainable, try to buy locally grown food instead of imported products which have a large carbon footprint. Also try to shop waste-free where you can; I would recommend shopping for whole grains, legumes and dried fruits at Green Action Co-Op in the student union for zero waste and amazing value products!
Remember that it’s ok to not be perfect. Try your best - follow your gut, listen to your body, eat intuitively. Don’t get down if you notice yourself eating a block of Cadbury’s in a moment of seduction. Keep on going and keep your mind and body open; keep learning and try to incorporate it into your lifestyle as much as you can. Welcome to the community! You’re now part of the change.
‘Accidentally Vegan’ readily-available snacks:
• Sweets: Starbursts, Skittles
resembles the taste of plastic, here are some of my favourite alternatives to animal products, trialled and tested:
• Seitan: ano
• Jackfruit: an
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These ingredie an elite vegan on branded al
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Branded Alternatives
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Vegan In
Image: Rachel Ama
In The Middle
nism: how to
world of veganism. Whether you’re toes in or want to make a change for re are some tips to help you get the
Immerse Yourself in Vegan Culture!
As you plunge yourself into the world of veganism, why not veganise your online presence It’s sure to make the transition easier and more fun!
Documentaries
• Cowspiracy – explores the environmental impact of animal culture and offers a path to sustainability • Earthlings – reveals our total economic dependence on and exploitation of animals for not only • The Game Changers the optimal diet for human performance’, featuring elite athletes, soldiers and scientists
Instagram: Who to Follow
• Gaz Oakley @avantgardevegan – vegan chef. There are links to his recipes online and on Youtube • Rachel Ama @_rachelama – Vegan chef and Youtuber. Expect a bubbly personality, delicious meals and immaculate vibes. Also, check out her blog rachelama.com on sizes and delectable Korean recipes • Radhi Devlukia @radhidevlukia – The woman for fresh ayurvedic and plant-based recipes • Earthling Ed @earthlinged – He is gentle vegan and animal activist and a beacon of compassion
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• @accidentallyveganuk – An account that features new/accidentally vegan products
Apps
• Is it Vegan? - A search engine which tells you if any branded product is vegan (gamechanger if Image Credit: Dani Abrams
ngredients
ents may sound foreign to you now, but you will swear by them as you become n! Once you have hacked cooking with these, you won’t be splurging so much lternatives…
ipes. Very high in vitamin B12, which is vital for vegans as your body cannot
• Happy Cow – It shows you restaurants/cafes with vegan options near you
Vegan in Leeds
If you want to treat yourself to a lockdown takeaway… • Humpit – head to the union on Wednesdays for 2 for 1 lush pitas with salad, humous, falafel! • Punk Vegan – coffee, toasties, wraps, burgers, fries in Hyde Park • MOG’s – burgers, fried chicken, hot dogs, dirty fries in Kirkstall • Grove Cafe – Cardigan Road, amazing vegan Indian menu, also pizza + greasy food • Wawin – fully vegan Chinese in Woodhouse
r to cook with. Always press the water out before cooking and
u in place of scrambled egg. other meat alternative made from gluten, comken and often used in Asian cooking and South East Asia but most easily
g in curries
o buy in a can. You can use it to
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a-3. Use it in baking in place of d mixture and make things rise.
ter, adding and mixing the water
n place of egg. You can get it from n of chickpeas. Save the chickpeas for a
ecipe at www.rachelama.com Image: Dani Abrams
Image: Dani Abrams
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In the Middle
