Breakfast

Pan-seared shellfish fettuccine from Clinkerdagger. YOUNG KWAK PHOTO

The Test of TIME

These local institutions had decades of experience to lean on during the pandemic

BY CARRIE SCOZZARO

Food industry challenges: staffing, maintaining quality, sourcing ingredients, staying relevant in a competitive market. A worldwide pandemic and statewide shutdowns? Not on the radar. But over the past year many of our region’s local institutions proved why they’ve endured 10, 20, 30 years and longer through all manner of challenges, COVID included.

For THE SWINGING DOORS, it wasn’t so much a “pivot” as spinning, says Lisa Emery, daughter of owners Bob and Barb Materne.

The 40-year-old family-run restaurant went to great lengths to keep family and guests safe: installing ultraviolet units in their HVAC, adding glass dividers, and upping their to-go process, including family-style meals during the holidays.

“The rules and regulations changed so many times and with such little notice that it made us dizzy at times, but thank goodness we have a great staff and generous customers that have kept us going,” says Emery.

A venerable institution dating to 1974, CLINKERDAGGER also added meals-to-go, so you won’t have to miss out on favorites like their fabulous artichoke-and-crab dip.

In addition to offering takeout and curbside pickup, EUROPA RESTAURANT & BAKERY is encouraging reservations for dine-in service (at reduced seating capacity).

Not knowing what changes might be coming has been challenging, says Asa Engels, owner of the nearly 40-year-old downtown restaurant. Yet, she says, it seems like everyone is turning the corner.

The rules are different in Idaho, where the state not only had looser restrictions for gathering, they didn’t have a statewide mask mandate.

Still, BEVERLY’S in Coeur d’Alene dialed back service out of an abundance of caution, and still hasn’t resumed lunch at the Coeur d’Alene Resort’s flagship fine-dining locale.

Look for increased events from the resort, which celebrates 30 years this year, from specialty brunches to a lakeside clambake in May.

Taking home the prize for one of the oldest local institutions is 56-year-old DICK’S HAMBURGERS. With only minor adjustments to outdoor picnic seating, Dick’s saw a brisk business for their counter-service-only joint.

And as many a Yelp and Local Guide reviewer noted, there was something reassuring about how little the place has changed over the years, especially in a year marked by changes none of us ever want to revisit. n