VENUE PROFILE: LARRIE'S

Modern milk bar

Inspired by 1980s milk bars, Larrie’s is the first step in a large-scale renovation of Newcastle’s Merewether Beach Hotel.

By Caoimhe Hanrahan-Lawrence.

LARRIE’S IS suffused with retro Australiana, taking its name from the beloved archetypal figure of the larrikin. The name pays homage to the spirited locals of the 1970s and 80s that made Merewether the place it is today, a legacy that publican Glen Piper takes very seriously.

“Whenever we take on a new venue and look to refresh and breathe new life into it, we always draw inspiration from the local community, its heritage, its history, its culture. For Merewether, that’s definitely the Australian beach culture,” Piper explained.

Larrie’s drew its inspiration from a milk bar that used to sit across the road in Jefferson Park, which was a staple of the beachgoers during the 70s and 80s.

“It was a place where the community would go before, during and after beach days. We wanted to provide that offering again, for the community, and that’s what we’ve done at Larrie’s: taking a retro milk bar and putting a modern twist on the food,” Piper said.

The offering at Larrie’s certainly evokes nostalgia for classic takeaways and fish and chip shops, with a number of battered options, burgers, and hot chips. This has been brought into the twenty first century with the use of locally sourced produce and sustainably caught seafood, as well as several fresh and vegetarian options.

“While we have the battered fish and chips and everything, all the classics, which are the best sellers, […] we still have those health options as well, where you can get a fresh salad. The milk bar was something for everyone back in the day, and that’s what we’ve tried to do in today’s terms,” Piper commented.

Of course, Larrie’s serves the quintessential fish and chips, alongside retro classics like prawn toast and the chip butty, which have been slightly elevated with additions such as sriracha mayo or coriander butter.

“They’re beach classics with a twist,” Piper described.

The fresh options still have a vintage vibe, with rice noodles and a spiced herb dressing giving a contemporary twist to the 70s prawn and mango bowl. Diners can also enjoy a sashimi plate with slices of Northern NSW’s best salmon, tuna, and snapper, or vegetarian options such as the classic Greek salad, spice roasted beetroot salad, or a smoked kale and quinoa vego burger.

There are also a range of soft serve sundaes, such as the Gaytime sundae, liberally coated with chocolate sauce and malted biscuit crumbs, or the Larrie’s sundae, classic vanilla ice cream topped with oreo crumbs, caramel fudge, and vanilla floss.

There are also banks of retro fridges serving classic soft drinks such as Passiona and creaming soda, as well as a sizeable selection of locally brewed beers and Hunter Valley wines. Due to the small size of Larrie’s, guests are encouraged to eat their food in the nearby park or by the beach, and can borrow picnic blankets or retro-style beach chairs designed by Merewether-founded beach furniture company Salty Shadows.

The milk bar was something for everyone back in the day, and that’s what we’ve tried to do in today’s terms.

- Glenn Piper

“It’s such a prime location with the park across the road, and that space is tight. It fits 20 odd people in there for dining in. But it is obviously a thoroughfare for people heading to the beautiful coastline, so our intention was targeted towards takeaway,” Piper remarked.

According to Piper, Larrie’s has quickly become a favourite local hangout, something that he has found very rewarding.

“I’ve enjoyed seeing all the local community members, who I’ve got to know over the past 12 months, running into each other when they go out, grabbing a meal, grabbing dinner or lunch, and just entering conversation. This gives that real community feel. When that sort of interaction happens, you know that you’re serving the community well, because they’re all coming together and using the space,” Piper said.

The large-scale renovation of the Beach Hotel is still underway, with Piper hoping to reopen the main bar and first floor dining experience later in the year. Like Larrie’s the upstairs restaurant will stay close to the venue’s costal roots, proving an elevated seafood-driven dining option that Piper believes Merewether is lacking at the moment.

“Larrie’s was always intended to be a bit of a taste and an insight into what was coming. Hopefully the community has seen we’ve taken a lot of care with what we’ve done with Larrie’s, and the same amount of care is taking being taken for upstairs,” Piper concluded.