THREE TIERS OF CHANGE

FROM ASSOCIATIONS TO LICENSEES AND HEAD CHEFS, PROMINENT WOMEN ARE TAKING GREAT LEAPS IN THE INDUSTRY, AND TAKING THE SECTOR WITH THEM. CRAIG HAWTIN-BUTCHER MEETS THREE OF THE MANY INFLUENTIAL WOMEN IN FOODSERVICE TO DISCOVER HOW CHANGE IS MADE.

Belinda Clarke is General Manager and Licensee of the Terminus in Pyrmont, Sydney. With Clarke personally nominated for Publican of The Year at this year’s ALIA awards and the Terminus itself nominated for Best New Venue or Concept, clearly the team there are doing many things well. Go up yet another level in the hierarchy and you will discover Terminus is operated as one of three in the group by Jane Hyland and her husband, along with the Banksia Hotel and the Macquarie Hotel.

Hyland is also a founding member of Women In Hospitality (WOHO), alongside Julia Campbell who founded WOHO in 2016 as a way to champion women in the industry and give them a portal to explore ideas, share information and provide access to education and mentoring initiatives.

WOHO is “an organisation for females and industry supporters from all facets,” says a spokesperson for the group, who continued: “[We] recognise that pubs are a large part

of that as well as a place where there is a big gender gap. We do all we can to attract females in pubs and industry supporters to the organisation to help recruit and retain more women in that sector.”

VIRTUOUS CIRCLE

Knowing that WOHO is also supported by Solotel, with one of the industry’s leading women, Justine Baker, as CEO, and it becomes clear there are women at every level working both as individuals and collaborating to drive the industry forward. The result is a virtuous circle from the pub floor, to the kitchen, to the owners, to the association and back to the floor again, since WOHO have launched a number of events within pubs they’re associated with.

“I had the bug for hospitality and wanted to work for the best so I packed my bags and went to London,” says Clarke of her first big break. “I wanted to work for Gordon Ramsay so as soon as I got off the plane I went and knocked on the door of his Chelsea restaurant and asked him for a job. He told me to go and buy a navy suit with court shoes and be back at 8am.”

Showing the drive and energy required to succeed in this business, particularly with big beasts such as Ramsay dominating the high-end, Clarke reflects: “Since then my passion for the industry has grown. Every opportunity I embraced with gratitude and through that I feel there has been no ceiling on what can be achieved.”

Now responsible for all operational, HR, compliance and administration for Terminus and a staff of 25 in the kitchen, tram bar, Vera’s Cocktail lounge and the accommodation, “I’m also the one you call at 3am when you lock yourself out of your room!” says Brown.

RESTORING COMMUNITY

Despite the struggles, Clarke remains positive about the highs. “We were given an opportunity to restore one of Sydney’s oldest and [most] iconic pubs. Pyrmont has a strong local community that the Terminus works hard at supporting. I have really enjoyed meeting the locals, hearing about their day, learning about the area and feeling connected to the community.”

Terminus, Pyrmont

Dining room at Terminus, Pyrmont

“The Terminus has the feeling of an old soul, it’s warm, genuine, unpretentious and humble,” says Clarke. “It’s really important to have staff on the same page and understand the history of the pub, the locals’ names and what they like to eat, drink and their favourite seat. This helps create a really comfortable environment for them to relax and enjoy.”

Speaking about the advantageous approach women can bring to the pub trade, Clarke says: “I think woman bring a different approach and perspective to the hospitality industry, which I think is needed now more than ever.”

Belinda Clarke, General Manager and Licensee of the Terminus in Pyrmont, Sydney

While Clarke says a number of opportunities are certainly opening up for females in the industry, there’s more that can and should be done, she says. “Realistically we should all have our eyes open and let me tell you from first-hand experience it’s not easy juggling family life with pub life and that’s a hurdle that I think many females come across in all industries.”

PROGRESSIVE TIMES

But for a sign of the progress already made, consider up-and-coming female chefs such as Tatiana ‘Tat’ Brown, Head Chef at The Erko, Sydney, who’s just reinvigorated the hotel’s food menu. Given The Erko’s two previous Time Out awards in 2015 and 2017 for Best Pub Food, the bar was already set very high.

“Our menu showcases our eclectic and casual Erko feel,” says Brown, “and the fun the kitchen can have with a smoker in the backyard. I would say theme-wise it’s based on something for everyone with an Inner Westie approach.”

The Erko, Erskineville

“I have travelled while doing what I love, so I would say my style is more rustic. Not too fancy! But what I aim for in a dish is the perfect mouthful.”

Describing her signature style, Brown says: “our menu is approachable and encompassing. We have the regular chicken wings, burger and fries but splurge a bit with our changing smoker board and the smoked pumpkin tortilla.”

FEMALE HEAD CHEFS

Does she believe foodservice needs more female head chefs?

“Definitely,” says Brown. “You can’t dream what you can’t see and we need more diversity all round, including the kitchen. I think having more female chefs brings a balance to the kitchen scene. I think female chefs can be more open to collaboration. I think we bring a more rounded view of our clients’ wants and perspective.”

“I don’t think diners could guess it was a female chef behind the menu,” ponders Brown, “and I wouldn’t want it to be. It takes hard work from the entire team and experience to get food out consistently well and that’s all I would like the guests to experience and come back for,” she says. Her reverence for the role of women was perhaps formed at a young age. “My grandmother ran a guesthouse for 20 years,” says Brown, “and was a huge influence on me while growing up. We always ate dinner at the table so cooking was a huge part of family life.”

Brown continues to be inspired by women, with Lisa Margan from Margan winery a particular inspiration. “I love her food and philosophy,” says Brown and “totally appreciate food-to-fork [eating] and local engagement.”

The Erko, Erskineville

The Erko, Erskineville

There is more that can still be done, Brown says. “As more females are associated in leadership roles I believe a more female-friendly wine and cocktail list, menu and a safe environment will attract more females to not only work but support such ventures.” Brown is doing what she can in her own work, ably assisted by her team, those like Brown elsewhere, all underpinned by networking organisations such as WOHO.

Tatiana Brown Head Chef, The Erko, Erskineville

NAME: Tatiana ‘Tat’ Brown

POSITION: Head Chef, The Erko, Erskineville

GREW UP: North coast of NSW in Grafton, so bit of a country girl at heart.

BIG BREAK: Apprenticeship at the NSW Art Gallery then Pendalino. Absolutely fell in love with Italian cuisine and have had my hands in pasta/pizza dough since!

SINCE THEN: Two years in London and Bath with the fantastic Soho Group. Really got into local community-sourced produce and utilising house farms. Adored picking my own onions, chard, beets – everything!

Then two years in Canada working snow hills and lodges, a heli-ski lodge and my favourite, Terrafina Restaurant at Hester Creek Winery. Tuscan food with the vineyards right in front of you.

All up a fantastic experience with lots of learning and now my first pub/hotel experience with the Erko, which I am absolutely loving. Love the team, area and community. Never felt so welcome, so thank you.