NEW-WAVE FUSION FOOD

CHEF SEB GEE IS BETTING BIG ON ASIAN PUB FOOD AT GWEILO, WITHIN SYDNEY'S REINVENTED EVENING STAR HOTEL.

Four days into service we catch up with head chef Seb Gee, formerly of Merivale’s Est, as well as Asian kitchens including Kid Kyoto, China Diner, China Lane and Sailors Thai. The menu is inspired by Hong Kong street food and focuses on traditional Chinese cuisine with a western twist.

Gweilo dining area at Evening Star Hotel

“There are a number of Hong Kong restaurants with chefs exposed to western ingredients. The food there is healthier, uses herbs and less oil,” says Gee, after a trip to South East Asia recently opened his eyes to how Asian food is evolving in its home markets.

“We’re using western ingredients but trying to balance it,” he says. “One dish we’re using is halloumi with a Cantonese-inspired sauce of chillies and garlic classically served on steamed fish. It works perfectly.”

Gee has clearly surprised himself with some of the menu’s star dishes.

Head Chef, Seb Gee

“I’m a 130kg white guy with curly hair, I love my meat, and importantly I love my seafood, I always have. But the vegetarian food I’m really quite proud of.” These dishes include an eggplant in Szechuan sauce with labneh.

“I’m presenting it the way we would in a Moroccan restaurant, flat on a plate. Everyone who’s tried it has been blown away by it.”

Drunken pork belly, chilli caramel, apple and mint

CHANGES AHEAD FOR PUB TRADE

Part of the reason he and the Marvan Hotels team have taken a punt on an Asian menu are the changes Gee believes are currently taking place in domestic Australian kitchens.

“More people are cooking Asian food at home. And doing something different with Asian food is starting to happen now. You’re seeing more pubs featuring spring rolls, bao and dumplings.”

The second trend we’re seeing emerge is the casualisation of the dining experience, which is only going to benefit pubs that get the balance right.

“The biggest thing for me was not to treat it like a restaurant with waiters wearing bow-ties or whatnot. It’s a more casual environment.”

‘Pho-ball’ beef dumpling, hoisin and ‘pho flavours’

He’s speaking from personal experience, while reflecting the new economic realities and the modern preference for more informal dining.

“When I go out I love to sit down, be relaxed and feel like I’m at home almost. At the same time, you can get restaurant-quality food on the plate without paying such high prices.”

We’re seeing smaller venues trying to pick up their game, with chefs who know how to utilise these cheaper cuts and give customers more bang for their buck. And who doesn’t want a cheaper meal?”

But after 14 years in the restaurant trade and stepping foot into a pub kitchen for the first time, he’s both learning and trying to teach.

“I’d love to bring a bit more of the restaurant experience to a pub environment. More table service happening, and we’re building that. But we don’t want to cut off that bar trade, people having a drink with their mates after work having a nibble or two.”

‘KFC’ bao, konbu fried chicken, bulldog sauce, pickled cucumber

“My biggest thing [approaching this pub] was to read the environment and crowd. Luckily I live around the corner so I looked around the neighbourhood. You can walk 50 metres in any direction and get classic Chinese or Thai food. I wanted to do something different with east meets west, step out of the norm. People can come here and get a same, same but different experience. Now it’s about reading that market and getting them to try it. There might be some hits and misses, but it’s always important to get that feedback from customers as much as I can.”