Bars & Clubs November - December 2017

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017

&clubs ABSINTHE

Busting myths about the Fairy

KENTUCKY BOURBON

A tour of bourbon’s spiritual home

GET SPICY

Spice up your bar with a sophisticated rum selection

SPICED RUM The Untold Story

P L U S : B A R S , T H E G R E AT E Q U A L I S E R – M OJ I TO – A L I A 2 0 1 7

first drinks

THE SILLY SEASON APPROACHES

“You’re probably all battening down the hatches in preparation for the madness of the silly season, but I hope you can spare a few hours to really sink your teeth into the excellent features courtesy of our fine contributors.” @BARSANDCLUBSMAGAZINE

MANAGING DIRECTOR Simon Grover PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Tam Allenby tallenby@intermedia.com.au PHOTOGRAPHER Dan Gray: Front Cover Simon Taylor: Category Spotlight

/BARSANDCLUB

GRAPHIC DESIGN Ryan Vizcarra ryanv@intermedia.com.au

Tam Allenby Editor

@BARS_AND_CLUBS

GENERAL MANAGER SALES – LIQUOR & HOSPITALITY GROUP Shane T Williams stwilliams@intermedia.com.au NATIONAL SALES MANAGER Ben Olivant bolivant@intermedia.com.au

It’s always interesting to watch the pieces fall into place when putting together this magazine; intentionally or unintentionally a theme tends to emerge, and this issue was no different – with a decidedly rummy undertone…

As the last issue for 2017, it’s also a good time to announce that BARS&clubs will be moving to a quarterly publishing calendar in 2018, in line with the seasons.

We’ll still be bringing you all of the longer form features in glossy print format every three months, but we’ll also have more time to focus on our online content, keeping you up to date with all the happenings in the scene on a more regular basis. So if you aren’t already signed up to our weekly newsletter, then I urge you to do so! (www. theshout.com.au/subscribe-bars-clubs/) I also hope you enjoy reading the final issue for 2017 as much as I did compiling it. You’re probably all battening down the hatches in preparation for the madness of the silly season, but I hope you can spare a few hours to really sink your teeth into the excellent features courtesy of our fine contributors.

If I don’t see you, Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year! I hope you all find some time to spend with your friends and family once it all quietens down in January.

And as always, your feedback is more than welcome – this is your magazine, so make it work for you.

Catch you in 2018.

HTTPS://WWW.THESHOUT.COM.AU/BARS-AND-CLUBS/

PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper PUBLISHED BY Food and Beverage Media Pty Ltd ABN 81 163 792 292 41 Bridge Road, GLEBE, NSW Australia, 2037 Telephone: (02) 9660 2113 Fax: (02) 9660 1883

AVERAGE NET DISTRIBUTION PER ISSUE: 5,442 CAB YEARLY AUDIT PERIOD ENDING 31ST MARCH 2017.

BARS&clubs 3

EST 2010

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER

Features 22 BARS: THE GREAT EQUALISER Fred Siggins unpacks the egalitarian history of the humble bar.

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28 ALIA 2017 Inside the Australian liquor industry’s night of nights.

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32 KENTUCKY BOURBON TRAIL With more barrels than people, Kentucky produced 95 per cent of the world’s bourbon.

36 ABSINTHE Absinthe expert and distiller Darran Baker busts the myths surrounding this misunderstood liquid.

40 SPICED RUM Spice and everything nice… Matt Colliard reports on the resurgent category.

20

Regulars 6 NEWS What you need to know.

8 OPENINGS The new, the revamped and the rebranded venues opening around the country.

11 NEW FACES Keep an eye on these up-and-comers.

12 INSPIRATION An Untold story, whisky masterclasses, a new boutique Thai rum, and a dose of bartending inspiration.

20 MOJITO The rum classic’s surprising history.

26 CATEGORY SPOTLIGHT This issue, it’s all about vodka.

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8 40

28

DISCLAIMER

This publication is published by Food and Beverage Media Pty Ltd. Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others.

All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials.

The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher's endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information.

All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication.

COPYRIGHT (C) 2017 - THE FOOD AND BEVERAGE MEDIA PTY LTD.

BARS&clubs 5

news WELCOME BLACK!

ALIA 2017 WINNERS

Presentation of the major awards at the liquor industry’s night of nights for 2017 began with Bartender of the Year being awarded to Will Sleeman from Black Pearl. Taking out the title on the heels of last year’s wins, the Melbourne cocktail bar reinforced its position as a leader in the Australian bar industry. The celebrations continued for Black Pearl who also took out another major award with Best Bar of the Year.

The award was accepted by the Captain of the Black Pearl, Tash Conte, who said: “This year has been a crazy year for us, not only because we are 15 years old, but that people are still thinking about us for the right reasons, so thank you all for your support not just this year but for the last 15 years, it means a lot.”

The evening saw a repeat for other big names in the Aussie bar industry as the Swillhouse Group was named Bar Group Operator of the Year for the third time running.

Power-house distributor Lion took out the title for On-Premise Liquor Supplier of the Year and the small Australian distillery Four Pillars Gin came out on top with the award for Best On-Premise Spirit/Liqueur.

On behalf of B&C, congrats to all the finalists, runners-up and winners for 2017.

Turn to page 28 for the full on-premise winners list.

WOODFORD RESERVE Matt Linklater has won the third annual Woodford Reserve 2017 Australia Cocktail Competition with his ‘Natural Order’ cocktail. With the final held at Marble Bar, Matt beat 155 fellow entrants – who were tasked with creating their ideal Old Fashioned and an original cocktail, both using Woodford Reserve – to be crowned as winner.

6 BARS&clubs

PROJECT BOTANICALS Paying homage to the various origins of its botanicals, this year’s activation saw Bombay collaborating with cocktail bars including Mjolner, The Barber Shop, Union Electric and Bar Moncur, to take attendees on a journey around the world “to the edges of food, music and imagination” via innovative cocktail and food pairings.

Please welcome the newest member of the Southern Comfort family: Southern Comfort BLACK. A whiskey-forward SKU, BLACK is the long awaited marriage between the classic Southern Comfort fruit and spice notes and a robust, full-bodied whiskey.

Developed by Drew Mayville and sourced from Sazerac’s North American Whiskey reserves, this proprietary blend features pronounced oak, vanilla and caramel notes, making BLACK perfect on the rocks or in any traditional whiskey cocktail.

Since its beginnings in 1874, Southern Comfort has been a gateway to the world of dark spirits.

With its purchase by Sazerac, Southern Comfort is heading back to its roots, embracing its heritage and once again becoming the true spirit of New Orleans.

Through its Southern Sounds programme, Southern Comfort will also be bringing the spirit of New Orleans Down Under with focused venue takeovers and live music activations across key venues on the Eastern seaboard throughout December and January – keep an eye out and an ear to the floor to find where your closest activation will be.

MOUTAI MASTER New Zealander Ray Letoa took out the Moutai ‘Enter The Dragon’ cocktail competition with his cocktail ‘Descendant’s Elixir’, which showcased the native NZ flavour of the Piko Piko plant. He’ll now be flown to China to experience and learn the ancient and modern techniques of Moutai production and two nights exploring Hong Kong.

news BLACK PEARL AND BAXTER INN MAKE TOP 50 Black Pearl and The Baxter Inn both triumphed in the World’s 50 Best Bar Awards 2017 in London in October, ranking 22nd and 45th respectively. Black Pearl also reclaimed its title as Best Bar in Australasia. After three years without the title, the bar has returned to the top position and has further established itself as one of the best drinking spots on the continent. American Bar at The Savoy in London was crowned The World’s Best Bar and Best Bar in Europe.

WHISKY BIBLE 2018 WINNERS REVEALED Colonel EH Taylor Four Grain Bourbon – a Buffalo Trace small batch release – has taken out the top prize of World Whisky of the Year in Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible 2018. The Bourbon was praised for its “sheer undiluted beauty”, with the esteemed whisky expert Murray writing: “Nothing could match the astonishing beauty of its surprisingly delicate weight and complexity combined. It was through time stood still in the tasting room; I just knew…”

AUSTRALIA’S LARGEST COLLECTION OF BITTERS? The revamped Smoking Panda in Sydney’s CBD is now home to what must be the largest collection of bitters – totaling 232 – of any bar in Australia. Combined with the bar’s total of 261 different spirits, the bar now has more than 18 billion possible flavour combinations at its disposal.

“We’ve got an Old Fashioned for everyone,” Bar Manager Iain Guthrie said. “We have enough variety on our menu that you could come in every day for the next 50,000 years and still not have the same drink twice.”

TWO MINUTES WITH JAMES HAYMAN, CO-OWNER HAYMAN’S GIN

74%

Hayman’s in Australia: “It seems now that the opportunity for gin here in Australia is prime. What’s important from our point of view, is that there’s a lot of good Australian gins but English gin is quite different to Australian gin. While there’s a lot of gin made in England, we’re the only one that make real English gin in the true way.”

Old vs. new world “Compared to the new wave of gin, English gin is more balanced, and yes you can smell the juniper and the citrus, the herbs and the spices, but you kind of go through a journey when you taste an English gin, but in new world gins you get the dominant flavour coming through much earlier on.”

The percentage of smaller drinking and dining outlets that say their customers are mainly locals. However, retaining this customer base is a concern, with 57% noticing customers are becoming less loyal – according to research from Shop Small.

HAVE YOU SEEN BARS&CLUBS ONLINE?

All the latest industry news, along with features, tips and tutorials www.theshout.com.au/ bars-and-clubs/

The gin boom “I think we first noticed around 2010, 2011. It’s been an evolution rather than a revolution really, probably in the last two or three years you notice lots of gins being made outside of England, in places like America, New Zealand and here in Australia.”

Favourite cocktail “A Martinez made with Hayman’s Old Tom – it’s just such a delightful cocktail to consume. Or a negroni made with sloe gin: the Sloegroni.”

BARS&clubs 7

openings

BENEATH DRIVER LANE

H

amish Goonetilleke, the man behind Fitzroy’s Rum Diary Bar and Rum Diary Spiced Rum, has opened another venue in Melbourne – this time in the heart of the CBD. Located down an alleyway and behind an unmarked door that leads down to the basement of a heritage building, Beneath Driver Lane’s space was home to the vault of the general post office in years gone by. This history directly feeds into the vibe of the bar today, described by Goonetilleke as “a sort of ‘down the alleyway’, underground, cavernous, dark and broody sort of feel – the whole vibe is deep, driving blues and lots of dark spirits.”

Reuben Powley has been brought on as venue manager, Jonathan Minihan as bar manager, and Danielle Rensonnet (formerly head chef at Bellota Wine Bar) is in charge of the kitchen – which focuses on small share plates, but with a French twist.

“We’ve got parfait, terrines, charcuterie, 8 BARS&clubs

cheese and probably the most competitivelypriced oysters in Melbourne. We’re serving $3 oysters every hour that we’re open,” Goonetilleke told BARS&clubs.

The cocktail list is composed of seven signatures, each with a bespoke garnish and glassware, as well as classics that are described as “off the beaten track” and “delicious and easy to drink, but might not be on someone’s usual order – like the London Calling, Trinidad Sour, Bramble… we’re pretty much having a kickback to the forgotten cocktails of the world.”

Opening stock for the bar sits at 400 bottles, split between roughly 160 whiskies, 40-50 mezcals and tequilas, 70 rums, 30 bourbons and ryes and 20 brandy’s and cognacs – plus aperitifs and digestifs. The interesting wine list is split between Australian and international offerings (“with a price point sitting between 50 bucks a bottle right up to around $450 for a bottle of Dom,” explains Goonetilleke), and

there’s a rotating guest tap for crafty local beers in addition to easy drinking options from Mountain Goat, Murrays and 4 Pines.

“We’re in the dead centre of town; there’s legal firms, accountancy firms and a lot of suits around here,” says Goonetilleke. “It’s down the alleyway, you’re underground, nobody can see you. People will have laptops here, people will have little meetings in the corners, they’ll probably have a couple of drinks that they’re not meant to be having with someone.

“That all ties into the fact of it being a bit naughty going down the alleyway to an underground bar – creating a space where people will feel comfortable to have those experiences, eat some great bar food, drink some cocktails and just be consumed by the space.”

Images: Georgia Verrells Address: 2/12 Driver Lane, Melbourne VIC

openings

Whirly Bird

This upbeat eatery is nestled in the streets of Pyrmont. As both a bar and bistro, Whirly Bird specialises in all things poultry and fine liquor with an eclectic lounge vibe and outdoor seating. Just a stone’s throw away from Sydney’s Darling Harbour, Whirly Bird offers an extensive creole-inspired menu in a sultrily lit open space. The brain child of former Keystone member Anthony Prior, Whirly Bird offers everything from finger lickin’ good chicken to quirky cocktails and fine wine. Poultry is a focus but vegetarians don’t despair – this chicken palace boasts a meat-free menu of ‘No Harm and No Foul’ including salt’n’pepper silken tofu and truffled polenta and mushrooms to boot. The drinks list has been designed by Rollo Anderson and Liam Doherty-Penzer (both formerly of The Rook), structured in sections with an Intro, Bridge, Chorus and Outro.

The Duke of Clarence

A brand new 19th century-inspired English tavern is opening its doors right in the heart of Sydney. Created and led by Mikey Enright and Julian Train, the creative team behind The Barber Shop, the Duke of Clarence boasts a 500-strong line up of British spirits and a strong focus on cask ale for a taste of years gone by. Designed in collaboration with UK set designer Sara Mathews, whose resume includes Ned Kelly and Moulin Rouge, this pub comes with all the traditional trims and fittings with lights and stained glass from pubs, warehouses and churches from across the Indian Ocean.

Working closely with former Merivale executive chef and local Liverpudlian, David O’Brien, the Duke of Clarence offers a nouveau spin on traditional UK pub fare. With a fireplace, a quaint library corner and a 12 metre long timber bar, there is plenty of space in this real English boozer to enjoy a quintessentially British experience in the middle of Sydney’s CBD.

Retro’s Cocktail Lounge

Fluro, fishbowls and disco balls, Brisbane nightclub Retro’s Cocktail Lounge is all about nostalgia, playing nothing but the best from the 80s, 90s and the Discman hits of the noughties. Sporting fluorescent fish bowl cocktails, a huge Lino-illuminated dance floor and plenty of neon fixtures to boot, this funky new refurb, from design to cocktails, makes the venue a kitsch time warp straight back to the 80s and 90s. Parallel to the Esplanade on Orchard Avenue you’ll find glow-paint covered walls, boombox/cassette tapes on table tops and a menu sporting all the disco classics from a Pina Colada to a Long Island Iced Tea. The Gold Coast’s Retro’s is the third venue for the Hallmark Group, aimed at creating a nostalgic nightclub experience in the heart of Surfers Paradise.

Gin Lane

Gin Lane, conceptualised by world renowned mixologist Grant Collins, has opened in the Kensington Street precinct in Sydney’s Chippendale.

With over 25 cocktails on the menu, 75 hand selected specialty gins from around the world (categorized by region) along with an extensive selection of vodka, rum, tequila and whiskey as well as wine, beer and non-alcoholic cocktails, the bar is a showcase of Collins’ passion and knowledge. Set in a restored 18th century townhouse, signature cocktails include the ‘Gunpowder Plot’ (gunpowder tea-spiked gin, Fernet Branca, gunpowder syrup, dandelion and burdoch bitters and fresh citrus, served in a smoking cloche) and the ‘Gin Riot’ (Genever, housemade spiced syrup, banana, clove vinegar, topped with wheat beer and served long topped with crushed ice, candied banana and mint).

Address: 84 Union St, Pyrmont NSW

Address: 152-156 Clarence St, Sydney NSW

Address: 3-5 Orchid Ave, Surfers Paradise QLD

Address: 16A Kensington St, Chippendale NSW

BARS&clubs 9

IT'S BACK!

SAVE THE DATE!

MONDAY 19 MARCH 2018 Tickets go on sale in November at www.publeaders.com.au

HOSTED BY

WITH PLATINUM SPONSOR

INTERESTED IN EVENT SPONSORSHIP? Contact Jason Wild: T: 0416 576 256 E: jwild@intermedia.com.au

new faces

Davy Pickard, Della Hyde (NSW)

I became a bartender because… I saw how much fun my friends were having making the perfect vodka lime soda! I needed to get in on it! My service weapon is… My chat and my looks – well, one out of two isn’t bad! The best part of the industry is… You never know who could walk through the door or what they will want always keeping you on your toes.

The worst part is… Friends moving on or those week long hangovers that creep in. The international bar I want to visit is… Dandelyan. If I could serve someone famous it would be… Salma Hayek or Joe Worthington. The cocktail I would make cool again is… Blue Lagoon or the Screwdriver. Drinkers are paying attention to… On the cocktail front it’s got to be fresh, approachable and smashable! Natural and organic wines are leading the way.

If I ruled the world, I would make everyone… Start the day with an espresso shot followed with a chaser of Black Barrel.

Amy Hilder, Shady Pines Saloon (NSW)

I became a bartender because… I met some industry legends one day and I realised that being behind the bar sounded better than being in front of it! My service weapon is… Great chat. The best part of the industry is… The people, it has almost become a big family.

The worst part is... The occasional awkward chat. The international bar I want to visit is… Death and Co, New York but first I have to make it to Black Pearl in Melbourne. If I could serve someone famous it would be… Jack Nicholson, I feel like it would be the most intensely satisfying experience ever. The cocktail I would make cool again is... Blended mango daiquiris. Drinkers are paying attention to… Where you are actually looking while shaking your cocktail, but in all seriousness craft beer is a big one with so many venues offering quality local drops. If I ruled the world, I would make everyone… Join me in afternoon lager-ritas.

Gene de La Hunty, The Barber Shop (NSW)

I became a bartender because… I wanted to do something for people, to live beyond my own little world. My service weapon is… A sense of irony in everything that happens – you’ve got to laugh, even at yourself. The best part of the industry is… The extremely late hours. Joking! Finding great things in people beyond your first impressions. The worst part is... Becoming slightly vampiric in the darkness, I think the fangs have started to grow. The international bar I want to visit is… Atlas. They visited the Barber Shop recently and did an excellent rockstar shift. If I could serve someone famous it would be… Nietzsche, before the madness. Or maybe after actually... The cocktail I would make cool again is...The Mary Pickford. Drinkers are paying attention to… Mad Men apparently. The Old Fashioned seems to defy its own name. If I ruled the world, I would make everyone… Live a day in another persons’ shoes.

Nicholas Anile, Long Chim (WA)

I became a bartender because… After leaving school my friends and I all disliked our part time jobs, I decided to make a change and chose bartending because I thought it’d be cool.

My service weapon is… My loud voice, very useful for working in a busy restaurant bar. The best part of the industry is… The camaraderie that you develop with your team through tough service experiences and industry events is unique. The worst part is... Customers that are inexplicably rude simply because they feel like they can get away with it. The international bar I want to visit is… Dandelyan in London – a next level cocktail bar that’s a must visit by all accounts. If I could serve someone famous it would be… Robin Williams. I think he would have some really awesome stories to tell if he were still alive and slightly intoxicated.

The cocktail I would make cool again is... A classic Daiquiri. A well-made classic daiquiri is perfect for any occasion and food pairing. Drinkers are paying attention to… The incredible quality and variety provided by Australian spirits. If I ruled the world, I would make everyone… appreciate the variety and complexity of booze outside of an individual’s comfort zone.

BARS&clubs 11

Dave Kerr (left) and Oscar Eastman (right)

Y

ou’ve probably heard about Untold, but in case you missed it, there’s a new rum in town.

A new collaborative brand of spiced rum developed by a crack team of bartenders and artists, Untold is a unique blend made with premium, 2-3 year aged golden Caribbean rum from Trinidad – enhanced with natural spices.

Under the Asahi Premium Beverages umbrella, four of the country’s top bartenders – Dave Kerr, Nathan Beasley, Dre Walters and Oscar Eastman – were brought together to help develop the liquid.

BARS&clubs caught up with Eastman to chat about this unique process.

WHY DO YOU THINK ASAHI CHOSE YOU GUYS TO HELP THEM DEVELOP UNTOLD? Asahi approached us around the beginning of last year, hoping to get a bit of an insight into what was missing from the mainstream spiced rum market. I think they chose us because we’ve all been around the block a little and came to the table with informed but unique approaches. I’ve got a lot of respect for the other guys involved and I believe our collective experience is really what made what you’ll find in the bottle.

TELL ME A BIT ABOUT THE PROCESS OF CREATING UNTOLD – I IMAGINE THERE MUST HAVE BEEN A BIT OF TRIAL AND ERROR? A little bit but somebody has to do it, y’know! There was a lot of back and forth, particularly when selecting the base rum we wanted as the canvas for this project. We experimented with a lot of dry

12 BARS&clubs

THE UNTOLD STORY flavours in order to craft something which would linger a bit longer on the palate and just keep pushing up new flavours, rather than the sweet vanilla bombs which tend to dominate the category. Conceptually we wanted something that was vaguely inspired by Melbourne and the ubiquitous creativity that is generated by the city.

DID YOU LEARN A LOT ABOUT THE PROCESS OF CREATING A SPICED RUM? Absolutely. We played around a lot with it and tried to take a few left turns here and there, so it was quite an experience. Perhaps the hardest part was deciding which of the top contenders we’d end up bottling.

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THE FLAVOUR PROFILE AND TASTE OF THE FINISHED PRODUCT? Smart-casual? We designed it as a sort of love-child of traditional spiced rums, sipping rum and a coastal single malt whisky. It’s still spiced rum, but it’s more like spiced

inspiration

note to it, but we threw in some more chewy textural elements and smokey, slightly savoury elements to it as well – which were put in there with bartenders in mind.

rum goes to college. One of our greatest achievements was creating something that balanced spice, sweetness and then finished with a delightful savoury note to steer it away from the sickly sweet rums that dominate the market, yet still keeping its authenticity.

WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR PERSONAL FAVOURITE COCKTAILS USING UNTOLD? For classics, it makes an excellent Mai Tai (Trader Vic recipe of course) and an even better Royal Bermuda Yacht Club.

DO YOU ENCOURAGE OTHER BARTENDERS TO GET CREATIVE WITH UNTOLD? All four of us like to see everybody get creative, so that was a really big consideration when designing Untold. The rum has those great classic spices like vanilla and cinnamon and an aromatic citrus

UNTOLD SUGGESTED SERVES The Easy Colada • 50ml Untold Spiced Rum • 40ml Fresh squeezed pineapple juice • 10ml Coconut cream • 10ml Sweetened condensed milk Trinidad and Tabasco • 30ml Untold Spiced Rum • Top with your favourite Cola • 1 Squeeze of lime • 2 dashes Tabasco Ginger Spice • 30ml Untold Spiced Rum • 50ml Ginger beer • 50ml Pale ale • 20ml Lemon juice

WHY DO YOU THINK SPICED RUM (AND EVEN THE WIDER RUM CATEGORY) HAVE EXPERIENCED A BIT OF A RESURGENCE ON THE BAR SCENE IN RECENT YEARS? Bartenders such as ourselves have been given the opportunity to contribute to the category and create something that they want to pour out for their guests, for their mates and even their folks. Spiced rum has this wide appeal because it is so approachable and yet it was shunned by bartenders for being too one-dimensional. A few bargeeks out there have taken it upon themselves to chisel a few more facets onto the spirit, boost a specific spice or fruit and just get a bit freaky with it.

Steam Ale is the product of an all-natural brewing process incorporating cool fermentation and a hit of wheat malt. The result is a certified organic, palate cleansing ale.

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BARS&clubs 13

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inspiration

EXPERIMENTS IN BLENDING

Maybe Frank’s Andrea Gualdi takes a sniff

E

spresso Roast and Rum Cask finish, the latest releases in Johnnie Walker’s experimental Blenders’ Batch Series, have arrived in Australia.

According to Diageo, both of the limited-edition whiskies were designed with bartenders and whisky enthusiasts in mind, to form the cornerstone of exceptional cocktails.

The new blends were launched at a trade event attended by some of Sydney’s top bartending talent at Brewtown Newtown in late October, where they were guided through a series of workshops by Simon McGoram, Diageo’s National Whisky Ambassador, and Stuart Morrow from the Baxter Inn. As McGoram told BARS&clubs, the new whiskies have been crafted by a team of 12 blending experts headed up by legendary master blender Jim Beveridge – but with a different lead blender on each liquid.

“These Blenders’ Batch releases are the result of years and years of experimentation,” he said. “The series gives us a platform on which we can bring some of these innovations and experiments to light, because of the small batch nature of the releases.

“We’re not just bringing out new cask finishes, we actually start right from the blend of the liquid. They’re all still all 100 percent Scotch whisky, but are quite unusual and have quite a different character to our standard Walker releases, but are equally delicious.”

For the Espresso Roast, barley was roasted “to a level that we haven’t done before” leading to flavours of rich toffee, coffee and dark chocolate. Amy Gibson, lead blender on the project, also selected malts with a dark fruit character, balancing this with the sweetness of first fill bourbon casks to tie the flavours together.

Lead blender on the Rum Cask Finish, Chris Clarke, has also spent a large part of his career working with rum. While rum barrels were of course used to finish the liquid, Clarke also chose matured grain whiskies in the blend.

“If you mature grain whisky right it actually has a rummy character. Unlike most Walker’s as well, the Rum Cask Finish doesn’t lay claim to any of those rich, earthy and smoky flavours that you find that is quite signature to the core Walker range. Instead they’ve focused on the lighter, fruitier Speyside malts to really let those rum casks help develop that exotic fruit and spice character that we find in the finished product,” McGoram explained.

He also encourages all bartenders to apply the same dedication to innovation and experimentation that went into creating each liquid on their own turf. “The blenders don’t want the experimentation to stop with them, and are really interested to see what happens to the liquid once it gets into the hands of bartenders.”

Still, does McGoram have any suggested serves using the new liquids?

“One of the serves we’re looking at with the Espresso Roast is just serving it really simply with a little bit of cold brew coffee, just over ice with a twist of lemon. Then you can kind of sweeten it how you like – maybe with a touch of panela sugar, which matches nicely with the toffee and dark fruit notes.

“For the Rum Cask Finish something like ginger beer, with a little bit of fresh ginger, a sprig of mint and a good generous squeeze of lime as well is a great summer option. Or if you happen to hang out a bit around Bondi, some fresh young coconut water works as well.”

BARS&clubs 15

inspiration

FRENCH SOUL AND FEMININE SPIRIT

By Andy Young, Editor The Shout

C

halong Bay Rum comes from Thailand, but it has a French heritage that has helped to define the unique flavour of the spirit. Not only that but it is the only vapour infusion rum available in Australia and founders Thibault Spithakis and Marine Lucchini have strived to create a spirit that reflects their own French heritage, as well as capturing the essence of their Chalong Bay home.

With both their families having a history in the alcohol industry, when the pair met at business school it seemed almost inevitable that they would carry on these traditions.

Having decided that the corporate world was not for them, and having enjoyed travels around the world the pair decided that they wanted to marry the historic style of French rum with South East Asia – where sugarcane is an indigenous crop but rum was not a traditional drink.

“Sugarcane has been growing in Thailand for thousands of years,” 16 BARS&clubs

Spithakis told BARS&clubs. “It is everywhere, in front of people’s houses, they grow it for good luck and good fortune so it is very deep within their culture. So mixing these traditions was challenging, but rewarding.”

Lucchini had travelled to Thailand for many years and her bond with the country was cemented after she survived the 2004 Boxing Day tsunami and from then, after the way the people helped her, she said Thailand was where she wanted to be. In addition the growing of sugarcane is such an integral part of Thai culture it married perfectly with what the pair wanted to achieve in terms of creating a handcrafted and sustainable spirit.

The distillery is based in Phuket and while Spithakis says “it is more romantic to make rum on an island,” this also works because the distillery works with small farmers and sugarcane producers.

The pair started the distillery seven years ago and took two years before they sold their first bottle; five years on they now employ 30 people and believe that the focus they have had on their product is starting to bear fruit.

In describing the rum, Lucchini said it reflects the nature of the distillery. “Fermentation is two hours, which is not long, but not too short either and develops lots of fruity aromas and it is not too strong either.

“Rum specialist Luca Gargano from Italy, held a masterclass in Singapore and he said that you can understand a spirit by looking at the distiller in the same way that you can with a dog and its owner. He pointed at me during the masterclass, when he said this and said that ours is softer than a traditional rum and it is a delicate rum. You can see there is a feminine touch to our rum; we have 90 per cent women in our distillery and we feel this helps us to produce this softer and more approachable rum that consumers are really enjoying.”

There are four styles currently available from the Chalong Bay range in Australia – Original, plus three of the vapour infused rums: Thai Sweet Basil, Lemongrass and Cinnamon.

inspiration

THE ORIGINAL BISON GRASS VODKA In a remote corner of Poland, the North Podlasie Lowland, lies a mysterious place called Białowieza: the last primeval forest in Europe, home to the continent’s only herd of bison and a distinctively aromatic plant – bison grass.

This wild grass resists cultivation and, to this day, is still carefully harvested by hand. For centuries, bison grass has been used to create a unique flavoured vodka, ubrówka (pronounced “ZOO-BROOV-KA”). The infusion adds smoothness and unparalleled freshness to the original singular spirit from Poland, which, in addition, is seven times distilled.

With its natural characteristics, ubrówka is a truly unique botanical vodka with notes of vanilla, almond and cinnamon. It’s best served straight, accompanied with a crisp apple slice, dusted with cinnamon or combined with fresh apple juice or tonic water over ice. But with the warm weather well and truly here, it also works well in a summer cocktail.

Present in over 50 countries, ubrówka is the 5th bestselling vodka brand in the world (Drinks International, 2016) and is the world’s #1 Polish vodka. It’s distributed in Australia by Spirits Platform.

ZU-PASH Ingredients: • 30ml Żubrówka • 15ml peach juice • Passionfruit pulp • Lemon Juice Method: Add Żubrówka with ice in a tall glass, combine passionfruit

pulp & lemon juice, then stir lightly, add more ice and top with peach juice.

Garnish with fresh mint and a lemon wedge. (To make the peach juice, combine fresh peach with a small amount of water in a blender or NutriBullet).

BARS&clubs 17

inspiration

P

eter Chua, former head bartender at 28 Hong Kong St (10th in the World’s 50 Best Bars list in 2016) recently opened his own bar in Singapore, Crackerjack. Chua was recently in Sydney for a three day event, Singapore: Inside Out, and BARS&clubs caught up with him for a chinwag.

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR NEW BAR CRACKERJACK? 28 Hong Kong St was created to be a high energy, high volume cocktail bar that was dark, sexy and mysterious where you could do things and people would not speak about it the next day. So Crackerjack is yin to 28’s yang – a bar that is more like places in Sydney or San Francisco, a home away from home, serving quality food, drinks and coffee too. We’re open from 9am until midnight.

DOES THE BAR HAVE ANY SIGNATURE COCKTAILS? The entire menu was created specifically for Crackerjack, and it revolves and rotates every two to three months – every time you come you might find something different, but it stays familiar.

One of these things would be our highball section, basically defined as a drink with a base spirit and a lengthening agent, whether it’s tonic or soda or coke. We decided to inject some flavour into it by making a cordial that’s made up of flavouring agents, sugars and acids.

So for example we have a drink called the ‘Grape Jasmine’ which is a play on how people drink cognac in Singapore which is with green tea, it’s like a staple. So we took that as a base and turned it into a highball drink. It’s a cognac with soda water, fresh jasmine tea, fresh grapefruit juice, acid phosphate, citric acid and sugar.

WHY ARE SINGAPOREAN BARS ALWAYS SO HIGH ON TOP 50 LISTS AND THE LIKE? It’s largely due to the fact that we’re so diverse as a country. Growing up in Singapore we have people from different races, cultures and backgrounds, and having that 18 BARS&clubs

SINGAPORE’S FINEST DO YOU HAVE ANY ADVICE FOR AMBITIOUS YOUNG BARTENDERS? Learn how to walk before you try to fly. Always learn the basics – a carpenter has to learn how to hammer a nail before he can build a house. Take your craft seriously, but don’t take yourself too seriously.

There’s a bit of an ego complex going on with bartenders nowadays where they hit a bit of success and suddenly they’re like ‘oh, now I’m mixologist.’ At the end of the day it’s hospitality, we’re here to give people a good time.

injection of foreign workers coming in bringing different skills and experience as well, we are able to take all the strong points of each culture and bring them together in one location. Also living in a city that’s so well connected around the world, we can get ingredients from pretty much anywhere around the globe, anytime we want.

WHAT MAKES A GOOD COCKTAIL GREAT? Balance for sure. I like to use the analogy of a painting – imagine your base spirit being the canvas, and the flavours you’re using being the paint. Different canvases require different paint. But to me the real art of bartending is finding the perfect drink for each guest, reading between the lines and listening to them to give them what they want.

inspiration

BACARDI LEGACY T

he Australian semi-final of the Bacardi Legacy Global Cocktail Competition took place in early November, as the field of competitors was whittled down from eight to three. Held at The Beaufort in Melbourne, James Irvine (Swillhouse group), Vini Wang (Hains & Co) and Zach Mynott (Canvas Club) were named as the top three going forward to the national final, which takes place in February next year.

The next step for the top three is promoting their cocktail, backed by Bacardi’s digital, PR and social media team. The national final will then see one of the three selected – based on the success of their cocktail and overall campaign – to represent Australia at the global final in Mexico City next year.

James Irvine – BOCADO: • 50ml Bacardi Ocho • 1 2.5ml De Kuyper Crème de Bananes • 10ml Noilly Prat • 10ml Palo Cortado Sherry •G arnish: 3 Drops Rosemary Oil James Irvine: “BOCADO in Spanish means mouthful and roughly translates to delicacy. BOCADO draws inspiration from every bartender, chef, owner, operator and restauranteur around the world. BOCADO personifies the passion for craft, purveyors of party, trendsetters, innovators and teams, so close they’re family.

Representing Australia in the Global Final would be an amazing opportunity for whoever it is. These types of opportunities are a once in a lifetime thing, to represent Australia and show the world what I’ve got would be absolutely amazing!”

Vini Wang – AJA: • 60ml Bacardi Carta Blanca • 30ml Lime juice • 15ml Orgeat syrup • 5ml Fresh Ginger juice • 2g Grated Wasabi • 4 drops Saline • Garnish: Mint leaf Vini Wang: “’Aja’ is a Korean expression to either cheer for a person’s success, but also to cheer a person up when they’re struggling with a situation in their life. My father used to send love and encouragement to me from Korea while I was working my very best to overcome some life obstacles alone in Australia, and I wanted to link the energy to not only my drink but to Bacardi’s success and overcoming the struggle in the past.

As a proud Korean, my goal was to someday make an orientalinspired drink for the whole world. Using ginger and wasabi – simple and common ingredients available anywhere the world, that are however rare in cocktails – I wanted to make a drink which complements each ingredient but is also well balanced.”

Zach Mynott – ESCAPE: • 60ml Bacardi Carta Blanca • 30ml Pineapple Shrub • 20ml Coco Lopez • 20ml Fresh Lime Juice • 10ml Thickened Cream • 2 Dashes Angostura Bitters • Garnish: Toasted Pineapple Zach Mynott: “At a Bacardi Legacy training session in Brisbane there was plenty of the usual banter and I can’t remember how exactly it came about, but someone made a ‘one hit wonder’ joke about Rupert Holmes who sang ‘Escape’ (the Pina colada song).

While sitting, staring at the Brisbane river at a venue that attracts the after-work drinkers, I got thinking; I wonder how many of the people who frequent places like this wish they could find their own escape.

Ideas started forming to create a drink that was tasty, light, replicable and gave people the courage to find their own escape and this ended up being the basis for the drink I made. The aim was to create a summer holiday style drink catered especially for the Monday to Friday workers of Australia, and there was no better choice than a well-balanced pina colada.”

BARS&clubs 19

classic cocktail

I

s there any cocktail that screams summer more than the Mojito?

This classic Havana creation has been around for centuries and its exact origins are still uncertain. One theory dates the cocktail back to the 16th century as a cure for scurvy invented by Sir Francis Drake during his (unsuccessful) raid of Havana; other historians argue that the cocktail’s origins come from the African slaves who worked in the Cuban sugar cane fields in 19th century as Guarapo, the sugar cane juice which is often used in Mojitos, was a popular drink among their number.

One thing for certain is that it is still a favourite and it is even said to have been the preferred beverage of classic American novelist Ernest Hemingway. And with only five ingredients in this classic cocktail it’s a simple yet perfectly-structured drink – all that’s left is the requisite Caribbean sunset.

MOJITO Glass: Collins Ingredients: • 15ml freshly squeezed lime juice • Around a teaspoon of super-fine sugar • Mint leaves • 60ml white rum • Soda water Method: Muddle lime juice with sugar in the glass. Add a few mint leaves, crushing them against the side of the glass. Fill the glass 2/3rds with cracked ice and pour in the rum. Drop in the squeezed-out lime shell and top with soda to serve.

20 BARS&clubs

BARS&clubs 21

EQUAL PARTS Fred Siggins unpacks the egalitarian history of the bar, arguing that unlike the world of fine dining and high-end restaurants, bars are a great equaliser – a fact that all bartenders should respect.

22 BARS&clubs

guest column

T

he world of high-end restaurants is an inherently elitist place. For the vast majority of the population, even in developed countries, a meal at Brae or Eleven Maddison Park is completely out of reach. Reservations are nearly impossible to get, unless you know someone, and if you do the average person’s weekly salary would barely cover the meal. Most of us will never be able to afford to fly to Europe just because we finally got a seat at Noma, and even for the financially comfortable, such a meal would be a once a year indulgence.

But cocktails are different. I’ve sat at the American Bar at the Savoy Hotel in London drinking an impeccable Hanky Panky, served to me by one of the world’s best bartenders, clad in gleaming white, while the piano player serenaded the room. It cost me $25. I’ve sat in the Oak Room Bar of the Plaza Hotel in New York (where rooms start at $500USD/night), looking out over Central Park, entertained by a bartender who’d been honing his skills of conversation behind this stick for two decades. I’ve drank at the Artesian, The Dead Rabbit, and the Black Pearl is my local. None of these places are closed to me, none beyond my means. The best cocktails and bar service in the world are available to anyone who chooses to seek them out.

DRINK OF THE PEOPLE Looking into the history of the cocktail, their egalitarian nature makes sense. Cocktails are, and always have been, a drink of the people. The first proto-cocktails came about when enlisted sailors in the Royal Navy mixed their rum rations with lime to stave off scurvy and sugar or blackstrap molasses to balance the acid and booze. The officers, meanwhile, were drinking unmixed brandy in the state room.

The expansion of the European empires during the colonial era, thanks to these heavily intoxicated navy boys, lead to the rise of a new social strata: the merchant class. Independently wealthy, but not part of the traditional landed aristocracy, they represented a dispersion of political, economic and social power away from the lords and ladies who reigned supreme in the Middle Ages. Their drink of choice? Punch. In their coffee houses and clubs they would while away the hours drinking elaborate concoctions of all the fantastic liquors, spices and fruits from the far reaches of the empire. These venues were also some of the first places where the aristocracy would interact with the lower classes, coming down from their manors to drink punch and talk politics.

BARS&clubs 23

Contact Vanguard Luxury Brands www.vanguardluxurybrands.com.au

“The best cocktails and bar service in the world are available to anyone who chooses

to seek them out.”

Over in America, the average working American couldn’t afford to drink in places like the Philadelphia Fish House with their porcelain bowls and imported spices, so by the early 1800s they had invented the single serve cocktail. From New York to New Orleans, folks were mixing low quality booze with sugar and bitters or citrus for a quick glass of escapism that almost anyone could afford.

As the country expanded west to the riches of the California gold fields, bartenders like Jerry Thomas were there to make a name for themselves, and a good living off the lucky prospectors who wanted to show off their new status with drinks of increasing complexity.

Again, these rough and ready men, caked in mud from the mines, would not have been allowed in the high-society places, but Jerry didn’t care what they looked like, as long as they could pay.

A SHOULDER TO CRY ON And as well as the high times, Americans enjoyed a cocktail as much during the low.

When prohibition kicked in, the speakeasies of America were some of the first places where men and women would interact socially, breaking down a barrier that had lasted for millennia. The great Depression and World War II also gave rise to the most important drinks movement of the 20th century: Tiki.

Don the Beachcomber and Trader Vic Bergeron, the godfathers of American Tropicana, both opened their bars at the height of the depression. Vic’s bar was called 24 BARS&clubs

Hinky Dinks, and was originally not Tiki themed. But a couple of regulars, down on their luck, made him rethink his business. Despite lacking a proverbial pot to piss in, this couple would show up every week, dressed in their shabby best, to spend what little extra cash they had to forget their problems for a few hours. Vic realised that all they were after was a bit of escapism from their hardscrabble lives, and he could give it to them for the cost of a Mai Tai. In response, he helped build a tropical fantasy that would come to define much of mid-century American culture for folks of all classes.

To this day, the bar is the great equaliser. Celebrities go to bars to be treated like normal people, and normal people come to be treated like celebrities. I’ve 86’d powerful men with black Amexes, and let homeless guys sit and drink water. Even on our side of the bar, there’s a diversity of background, education level and social class you wouldn’t find in most industries. So to treat every single person who walks through the door as equal is a fundamental part of the craft. For this, and many other good reasons, there’s no room in our industry for classism. If we start judging people, much of the beauty of what we do will be lost.

All the best bars know this, treating each guest like the most important person in the world (but never so important they can’t be kicked out). All anyone ever really wants is to be paid attention to, to be seen and heard, and lucky for us we can give that gift to anyone who can afford a shot of whisky.

Have you seen our FREE digital edition?

&clubs

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017

ABSINTHE

Busting myths about the Fairy

KENTUCKY BOURBON

A tour of bourbon’s spiritual home

SPICED RUM

Spice up your bar with a sophisticated selection

UNTOLD

Spiced rum with an edge

P L U S : B A R S : T H E G R E AT E Q U A L I S E R – M OJ I T O – A L I A 2 0 1 7

CHECK IT OUT ONLINE AT barsandclubs.partica.online/bars-and-clubs

NOW

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Watsons Bay Boutique Hotel

26 BARS&clubs

TITO’S HANDMADE VODKA

TOVARITCH! RUSSIAN VODKA

Tito’s Handmade Vodka is produced in Austin at Texas’ first and oldest legal distillery. It is micro distilled in an old-fashioned pot still, just like fine single malt scotches and highend French cognacs and distilled six times. Designed to be savoured by spirit connoisseurs and everyday drinkers alike. titosvodka.com

Made with 100% organic, locally sourced grain and bottled at 38% ABV, TOVARITCH! is distilled five times and filtered twenty times through a combination of birch charcoal and silver – delivering a medium bodied, dry vodka with creamy sweetness and hints of spices and nuts. tovaritch.com

vodka promotion

HIGH SPIRITS BELVEDERE

ŻUBRÓWKA

ABSOLUT

Smooth and round with a medium-bodied weight and light, velvety texture. Some vanilla on the palate, which sways between sweet and savory, with a hint of white pepper and spice. Good length with notes of almond, vanilla cream, and some faint almond and Brazil nut characteristics. belvederevodka.com

Each bottle of Zubrówka is physically handdecorated with a single blade of seasoned bison grass – the key ingredient for its existence. But the real secret to Zubrówka’s success comes down to taste, flavour and heritage. With notes of vanilla, almond and cinnamon, it is a versatile vodka enjoyed allyear round. spiritsplatform.com.au

Every drop of Absolut Vodka is manufactured using ingredients from the area surrounding its distillery in Åhus, a tiny medieval village in the county of Skåne in Sweden. One source of wheat, one source of water, one location and one reason why any bottle of Absolut Vodka, anywhere in the world, has the same distinctive character and taste. absolut.com/au

BARS&clubs 27

The Heroes and Villains theme was a resounding success

Archie Rose networking bar

Award Sponsors 28 BARS&clubs

Pre-drinks on the terrace

Chalong Bay whipped up cocktails all night long

ALIA 2017

AUSTRALIAN LIQUOR INDUSTRY AWARDS 2017: HEROES AND VILLAINS

T

MC for ALIA 2017 Shane Jacobson, AKA Kenny

The team from SouthTrade

he 2017 Australian Liquor Industry Awards took place at Randwick Racecourse in October, as around 600 members of the industry gathered to celebrate another big year.

The Heroes and Villains theme brightened the room and helped to boost the party atmosphere, cementing another hugely successful evening – co-hosted by NILWA-Signature Drinks and IRI. 2017 saw 54 awards presented to the industry’s best people, products, venues and brands across the on- and off-premise, including 12 major awards.

The night kicked off with predrinks sponsored by Coopers, and throughout the night guests were treated to networking bars from Archie Rose Distilling Co, Chalong Bay Rum, Coopers and Kegstar. The night was topped off with after-party drinks sponsored

by Southern Comfort – fresh off the relaunch of the product, with whiskey back in the recipe, a new bottle design and new brand positioning.

If you haven’t been to ALIA before, put it in your diary for next year – it’s a night not to be missed.

BACARDI-MARTINI AUSTRALIA PTY LIMITED

BARS&clubs 29

Fever-Tree won best mixer

Denis Brown (Bacardi), Stuart Baxter and James Irvine

On-Premise Awards: BEST RENOVATION WINNER: The Lansdowne HIGHLY COMMENDED: East Village

Michael Nicolian (right) was named Bar Manager of the Year

BEST NEW BAR WINNER: Charlie Parker’s HIGHLY COMMENDED: Mjølnar

BEST FOOD MENU WINNER: The Dolphin HIGHLY COMMENDED: Queens Hotel

BAR MANAGER OF THE YEAR WINNER: Michael Nicolian, Continental Deli HIGHLY COMMENDED: Jonathan Liu, Archie Rose

BAR TEAM OF THE YEAR WINNER: The Baxter Inn HIGHLY COMMENDED: Black Pearl

BEST ON-PREMISE SPIRIT/LIQUER WINNER: Four Pillars Gin HIGHLY COMMENDED: Aperol

The Lansdowne was awarded best venue renovation

BEST MIXER WINNER: Fever-Tree HIGHLY COMMENDED: Capi

BEST BEER LIST WINNER: The Local Taphouse (St Kilda) HIGHLY COMMENDED: Royal Albert Hotel

BEST WINE LIST WINNER: Bar Liberty HIGHLY COMMENDED: The Dolphin Hotel

BEST COCKTAIL LIST WINNER: Eau de Vie (Melbourne) HIGHLY COMMENDED: Black Pearl, Bulletin Place (tie) 30 BARS&clubs

Charlie Parker's took out Best New Bar

ALIA 2017

Major Awards:

d Tash Conte

Matt Linklater an l from Black Pear

BARTENDER OF THE YEAR WINNER: Will Sleeman, Black Pearl HIGHLY COMMENDED: James Irvine (Swillhouse Group)

BAR OF THE YEAR WINNER: Black Pearl HIGHLY COMMENDED: The Baxter Inn

BAR GROUP OPERATOR OF THE YEAR WINNER: Swillhouse Group HIGHLY COMMENDED: Applejack Hospitality

ON-PREMISE SUPPLIER OF THE YEAR was crowned Four Pillars Gin e Spirit/Liqueur Best On-Premis Co-Hosted by

WINNER: Lion HIGHLY COMMENDED: Campari Networking Bars By

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falo nds of the Buf The leafy grou Kentucky in Frankfort,

ry

Trace Distille

POSTCARD FROM KENTUCKY K

entucky lives and breathes bourbon; with the number of bourbon barrels easily outstripping the human population, Kentucky is undoubtedly the spiritual and physical home of the amber liquid. 95 percent of the world’s bourbon is made in the state, and with many of the top distilleries easily reachable from Louisville, Kentucky’s largest city, a visit to the area is a must-do for any serious aficionado of America’s official native spirit.

BUFFALO TRACE Start your bourbon journey at the Buffalo Trace Distillery in the state capital of Frankfort – around 90 kilometres from downtown Louisville. Set on the banks of the winding Kentucky River, the lush green grounds of the distillery 32 BARS&clubs

are home to more than 300,000 barrels of liquor aging in red-brick rackhouses.

“No other distillery in the world has won more awards than Buffalo Trace,” says Kris Comstock, Bourbon Marketing Director at Buffalo Trace.

“Writers, enthusiasts, and spirits competitions around the world have awarded more than 500 accolades to our brands. The title of ‘world’s most award-winning distillery’ has been earned through the uncompromising dedication of our craftsmen for well over 200 years.”

As proof of its heritage, in 2013, Buffalo Trace Distillery became a National Historic Landmark, recognising the distillery and its people, builders, preservers and protectors. More recently, in 2016, Buffalo Trace unearthed what has come to be known as ‘Bourbon

Pompeii’ – the foundations of a previously lost distillery from 1873, which was uncovered as workers prepared to renovate an old storage building close to the river.

Flagship bourbon, the Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, has been referred to by Jim Murray (author of the influential Whisky Bible) as “one of the world’s great whiskies”, and took home the ‘Best Straight Bourbon’ category at the 2016 San Francisco World Spirits Competition. It’s known for its balanced, pleasantly sweet taste and complex aroma of vanilla, mint and molasses.

Buffalo Trace also recently took out World Whisky of the Year in Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible 2017 for its small batch Colonel EH Taylor Four

bourbon

Grain Bourbon – a fact that was not lost on James Johnstone, Senior Brand Manager of the Sazerac Portfolio at SouthTrade International, which distributes Buffalo Trace in Australia.

“It was a huge honor to win such a prestigious reward that is recognized internationally,” Johnstone told BARS&clubs. “Sazerac as a company and Buffalo Trace as a distillery have had a long-standing tradition of producing award-winning brands, something we are

immensely proud to be a part of.

For us, the win is immeasurable, with not only EH Taylor Four Grain but multiple products produced at the Buffalo Trace Distillery – the worlds most awarded distillery – winning awards.”

WOODFORD RESERVE Next stop on the trail is the Woodford Reserve Distillery, tucked away in the rolling hills near the town of Versailles. The distillery here is one of only three in Kentucky that have gained the title of National Historic Landmark (joining Buffalo Trace and Maker’s Mark). It’s a scenic little spot, and the oldest

and smallest on this tour – with iconic copper pot stills, the longest barrel run in the USA (at over 500 feet, entirely powered by gravity) and 100-year-old cypress wood fermenters that are still in use.

The distillery’s flagship liquid, the Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, is rich and chewy, and has earnt a swathe of awards over the past two decades, while the Woodford Reserve Double Oaked is an innovative, twicebarreled bourbon, with the second barrel deeply toasted and treated with a light charring, extracting more oak character. There’s also the Masters Collection series of small batch products, which honour the pioneering work of early owner Oscar Pepper and Master Distiller James Crow way back in the 1800s and apply their handcrafted techniques.

Woodford Reserve is also the official bourbon of the Kentucky Derby, and is used to create some seriously lavish mint juleps on race day at Churchill Downs – pricing starts at $1000 for ‘Noble Cup’ (of which 90 are available) all the way up to $2500 for a gold-plated ‘Royal Cup’ (of which only 15 are made).

WILD TURKEY Just over 20km away, on the outskirts of the small town of Lawrenceburg, you’ll find the Wild Turkey distillery, home to the Wild Turkey and Russell’s Reserve catalogue. A family business through and through, the legendary Jimmy Russell – the world’s longest-tenured active master distiller at 83 years of age – was joined by his son Eddie Russell as a fellow master distiller in 2015.

The younger Russell was recently Down Under to unveil a special edition, Australia-only superpremium bourbon known as Master’s Keep 1894 – the latest release in the Master’s Keep series. The bourbon honours the oldest rackhouse on the Wild Turkey estate and the BARS&clubs 33

bourbon

place where Eddie Russell first fell in love with bourbon. With layers of toffee and honey that give way to fruity notes of candied pear, stewed apples, spice, subtle oak and vanilla – before delivering a long, caramel finish – it’s best enjoyed neat.

“From the very first taste at Rickhouse A, I knew I wanted to dedicate my life to bourbon,” commented Russell. “Master’s Keep 1894 captures that moment, the start of my journey to master distiller and the beginning of years of tradition.”

Recently signing on Hollywood A-lister Matthew McConaughey as creative director and celebrity spokesman for the brand, Wild Turkey’s star is on the rise again, with global sales rising 14.6 percent since 2016.

MAKER’S MARK With three stops under the belt, it’s a good time to settle in for a nap – you’re now in for the longest drive of the trip so far, so hopefully you’ve managed to wrangle someone else to get behind the wheel. There's 80km to cover, so plenty of time for a bit of shuteye on the way to the sleepy town of Loretto, home to the Maker’s Mark distillery.

As one of the only Americanmade whiskies to use the Scottish spelling of ‘whisky’, that’s not the

only unique thing about Maker’s Mark: wheat, instead of rye, is used in the mash – the use of wheat resulting in gentler aromas than you find in rye bourbon, and grassy, grainy notes. Maker’s is also famous for its distinctive red-wax dipped bottle, a design that has stayed the same since the first run was bottled in 1958. And if you’re lucky, they’ll even let you dip your own bottle cap.

JIM BEAM For the final stop of the trip, take the 45 min drive through the countryside to Jim Beam, not far from the outskirts of Louisville.

The home of the world’s numberone selling bourbon, the Jim Beam American Stillhouse in Clermont also has the title of ‘Bourbon Disneyland’. While it might lack a little of the homely character

A cocktail steeped in history deserves to be made with a brand that reflects the same.

Produced at 1 of only 4 distilleries to survive Prohibition, Buffalo Trace is the flagship Bourbon from the worlds most awarded distillery. Hand crafted small batch Bourbon, Buffalo Trace was voted “Best Straight Bourbon at the 2016 San Francisco World Spirits Competition” and is the perfect Bourbon for the ultimate Old Fashioned.

Ingredients:

Method:

• 60ml Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey

1. Add sugar cube to a rocks glass

• 2 dashes of Angostura bitters

2. Drop two dashes of bitters and a barspoon of water onto the sugar cube

• 1 sugar cube

3. Muddle the bitters and water into the sugar until sugar is dissolved

• Orange twist to garnish

4. Add the Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey 5. Add a large chunk of ice and stir until chilled 6. Twist a large piece of orange zest over the drink and drop into the glass

34 BARS&clubs

that you’ve experienced at other stops on your journey, the distillery tour here is comprehensive and takes you through the basics of bourbon making, from the still to the rackhouse to the bottling line.

You’ll start and finish your tour in the gift shop where there’s also a nifty automated coupon system so you can try a swathe of the Jim Beam range. Try to time your visit here as the sun is setting; with 76 rackhouses dotting the surrounding landscape, it’s hard to envision a more picturesque conclusion to a whirlwind day in bourbon country.

All that’s left is to make the half an hour drive back to downtown Louisville; with a thriving bar scene, there’s plenty more fun to be had if you’ve got the energy.

ABSINTHE: PAST AND FUTURE

Darran Baker is the founder, builder and distiller of Demoiselle Distillery, Australia’s first dedicated absinthe distillery established in 2012.

And as you’ll discover, he’s quite the expert.

Read on for absinthe’s history, the process to produce it, and how to use it in your bar.

T

o many, absinthe has reached an almost mythical status; misinformation, based on propaganda from over 100 years ago, has contributed to what has been a chequered history. In fact, it started life as a medicinal tonic before it was a popular spirit.

MESSAGE IN A BOTTLE The ‘holy trinity’ of herbs: aniseed, fennel and wormwood form the core of quality absinthe. These three herbs are macerated in high proof alcohol before being distilled and then coloured using anywhere from three to more than 10 botanicals in the colouration (while this is called ‘colouration’ it most definitely adds herbal complexity to the spirit as well). Finally the liquid is coarse filtered (to remove most of the plant solids) then bottled at anywhere from 50% to a more traditional 6574% ABV. 36 BARS&clubs

Being part of every step of the process is what I love, and what makes a good absinthe. This ranges from planting the seeds and propagating the wormwood cuttings, fermenting and distilling the base spirit then harvesting and drying the botanicals and ultimately distilling and colouring the finished absinthe. The absinthe becomes a record of that year and one that will last for 100 years plus – as long as the cork stays intact.

There is something poetic about this message in a bottle, from my two hands, that someone can enjoy long after I’m gone. Unlike many popular spirits, where the magic comes from years in a barrel, absinthe’s foundation is the base spirit and quality herbs.

Alongside traditional French-style absinthes, I also produce absinthes infused with carefully selected native botanicals including aniseed myrtle, lemon myrtle and Australian mountain pepper.

absinthe

THE GROVE DISTILLERY Another leading absinthe producer in Australia is Margaret River’s The Grove Distillery. Along with a range of whiskey, rum and gin, The Grove also produce an absinthe, made with 100% certified organic herbs. Coloured with a chlorophyll herb, The Grove makes its absinthe in 100L batches before ageing the liquid for 12 months.

“The aging process allows the herbs to blend and creates a soft and mellow absinthe, with the traditionally dominant herb being anise seed,” says Val Hughes from The Grove. “In terms of cocktails, we have some tried and true recipes, but it is our experience that bartenders are creative people and prefer to put their own stamp on a drink.

Still, we do have a couple of favourites.”

MORNING RECOVERY Ingredients: • 15ml TGD Absinthe • 15ml TGD Orangecello Liqueur • 30ml fresh orange juice • 30ml fresh lemon juice • 1tsp sugar • 1 egg • ¼ tsp nutmeg (to garnish) Method: Blend all ingredients well and strain through ice into a chilled martini glass. Sprinkle with nutmeg. Enjoy and have another.

Bee hyssop

BLACK GOLD Ingredients: • 20ml TGD Absinthe • 10ml TGD Caribbean Spice • 10ml TGD Gin • Squeeze of fresh lemon juice • A dash of Coca Cola

Fennel seed

HALLUCINATIONS Properly made absinthe does not – and never did – make you hallucinate. First, let’s have a glimpse of absinthe’s tumultuous past. Phylloxera, a small insect and cousin of the aphid is what absinthe has to thank for its heights of fame and eventual infamy. This insect wiped out much of the grape crops in Europe, resulting in extremely limited wine (and wine based spirit) supply. As a result, absinthe became hugely in demand.

Absinthe’s popularity resulted in it ultimately becoming scapegoat for all the alcohol related problems of the day. Just like in the USA, a wave of prohibitionist/temperance support was sweeping through Europe. Enter an odd pair of bed fellows: the prohibitionists and wine producers (who were now back on their feet but with much of their consumer base preferring absinthe), who joined forces to have absinthe ultimately prohibited through much of Europe by 1915.

Absinthe has remained prohibited until 2004 in Europe, and is still banned in certain countries around the world. Absinthe’s ban was and is a farce, and the misinformation that helped have it banned over 100 years ago still repeats itself to this day.

The way forward for absinthe is firstly specialised distilleries continuing to make quality traditional absinthes, and most importantly, educating people how to employ and enjoy this potentially daunting spirit. After running countless absinthe tastings I feel producing absinthe is at least 90 percent education.

MAKING GOOD ABSINTHE The herbs and base alcohol used to produce absinthe form its core.

Traditionally France and Switzerland were the two countries producing quality absinthe. Generally, France used grapes as a base alcohol and Switzerland uses grain-based alcohol. Just like spirits all over the world, historically they are created from the base of whatever sugar (fruit) or starch (grain, potato) is locally available.

Terroir also plays a massive role BARS&clubs 37

absinthe

Earthquake in quality absinthe. For consistency in aroma and flavour, the wormwood is usually propagated by cutting each year, from carefully selected varieties. Alongside the holy trinity of aniseed, fennel and wormwood (Artemisia absinthium) is often petite wormwood (Artemisia pontica), hyssop and at least one citrus herb (often lemon balm) used in the colouration step. The number and quantity of herbs used varies dramatically, but the one constant is that it must be balanced and the holy trinity of absinthe herbs should never lost behind these secondary herbs – just like a gin that no longer tastes of juniper.

Good absinthe should be naturally coloured by whole dried botanicals, and as a result it is usually bottled in dark green glass to help protect from fading. If the colour of an absinthe does not look natural then it is most likely not made in the traditional way, and potentially also uses essential oils for flavour alongside the artificial colour.

The type of still used also plays a large role in the finished absinthe; this includes both the still making the base alcohol and the absinthe still – another reason

Demoiselle's Absinthe Rouge for the distinct difference between French and Swiss absinthe. The latter usually uses a column, plated reflux still producing a base alcohol which is essentially a vodka and the former a more rudimentary pot still that makes for a much more robust and flavourful base.

The absinthe still should always be a pot still; I use a hammered copper Turk’s helm style pot still. The main factor that determines the final flavour of the absinthe

For more information contact Cerbaco on 0396468022 or cerbaco.com.au 38 BARS&clubs

distillation is the angle of the lyne arm. Going back to basic distilling, an ascending lyne arm makes for a lighter, more refined, less intense product and a descending one the opposite: a more intense, robust product with the risk that it becomes a little too heavy herbally.

DRINKING ABSINTHE Absinthe can be a challenge to use – both its alcoholic and herbal intensity are potentially overwhelming. This is why the absinthe bottle often sits forlornly on the back bar shelf. I have recently written a book of historic absinthe cocktails to address just this issue and allow absinthe to be experienced to the full.

Many of these cocktails feature vermouth (sweet and dry styles) and gin, alongside a host of forgotten yet still produced liqueurs and spirits waiting to be rediscovered, including Benedictine, Calvados, Maraschino and Kina Lillet to name a few.

Firstly, do not set absinthe on fire unless you want it to become a heavy shadow of its former self.

Not only does it burn off alcohol, the more volatile oils and aromas in the absinthe are also burnt off first, unsettling the herbal symphony.

Traditionally absinthe is prepared by combining with iced water at around a 1:3 ratio (absinthe: water).

To me the most opulent and simply the best way to experience absinthe, especially for the first timer, is a

cocktail created by none other than Ernest Hemingway penned for a 1935 celebrity cocktail book: Death in the Afternoon “Pour one jigger absinthe into a Champagne glass. Add iced Champagne until it attains the proper opalescent milkiness. Drink three to five of these slowly.”

Despite being more alcoholic, it is more approachable and simultaneously opens up your palate to enjoy the absinthe. Select a Champagne on the sweeter side to make it easier to drink, or on the dryer side to intensify the absinthe.

Beyond this there are several other well-known historic cocktails that grace an ever increasing number of Australian bars. These are the Sazerac (rye whiskey, Peychaud’s bitters, absinthe rinse), Corpse Reviver #2 (gin, Cointreau, Kina Lillet, absinthe) and the Earthquake (absinthe, cognac).

Several Australian bars already embrace absinthe; in Melbourne, Absinthesalon and Bar Ampere, and in Sydney Papa Gede’s, all of which I am lucky enough to be on the menu of. Papa Gede’s signature cocktail, The Zombie, served in a house Tiki Mug, features a healthy dose of absinthe and is still a balanced and enjoyable cocktail - showing the potential of absinthe when in the hands of someone knowing how to employ it.

AUSTRALIAN ORGANIC ABSINTHE The Absinthe that makes you want to ‘lickorice’ the glass.

Papa Gede's, The Zombie

Death in the Afternoon

WWW.THEGROVEDISTILLERY.COM.AU

+61 8 9755 7458

THE RISE OF SPICE With a number of more sophisticated and nuanced spiced rums hitting the market in recent times, the category is shaking off its sickly sweet reputation.

Matt Colliard reports.

R

um in general has always been one of the bartender's most favoured drinks, either as a base spirit in a mixed drink or served neat. Many of us believe that rum will be the new vodka, especially in terms of production and the sheer amount of countries that produce rum.

Rum is a national symbol of pride and identity in many countries. In Jamaica for example, rum is used to cure colds, christen newborns and even purify the dead. When building a new house, rum is often sprinkled to keep away the evil spirits, known as the "Duppies". Here in Australia, when good old Captain Bligh was Governor of England's southern penal colony, the British Pound may have been the ‘official’ currency, but rum was a much more available and

40 BARS&clubs

happy resource. In fact, the Rum Rebellion of 1808 – the only time that a government has been forcibly removed in Australia’s history – was triggered by the removal of rum as a form of currency!

Such is the importance of rum in our collective history. Now, spiced rum…

In the Caribbean, they’ve been adding spices to their rums for ages, but it wasn’t until the huge success of Captain Morgan – ‘the original spiced Rum’ – in the 1980s, that the category made some serious headway in our local bars and liquor stores.

If you aren't a rum nerd, you might not have noticed the large increase in the amount of spiced rum available on the shelf in the last few years – with easily more

spiced rums available than days of the week. Captain Morgan once had control of the lion’s share, but that certainly hasn't stopped others from joining the fray; The Kraken, Sailor Jerry, and just last year, Baron Samedi – a smooth and rich Haitian rum that features natural ingredients including vanilla, cocoa, cinnamon, clove and vetiver.

The latest to jump on board the spiced rum train, Asahi Premium Beverages recently released its Untold Spiced Rum, so named after the inventive and creative process that went into its creation. Bringing together the talents of Dave Kerr (The Beaufort), Nathan Beasley (Black Pearl), Dre Walters (Lobo Plantation) and Oscar Eastman (ex-Eau de Vie), Kerr describes Untold as a “versatile product”

spiced rum

FOR SOMETHING

DIFFERENT Try the LOST CARGO from the guys at The Rook: Ingredients: • 45 Cargo Cult • 15ml Falernum • 2 Bar spoons of passionfruit puree • 30ml White grapefruit juice • 20ml Lime juice • 2 Dashes Angostura bitters Method: Serve short with crushed ice and a lime wedge.

or “blank canvas” which can be enjoyed in any way you (or your patrons) please.

Its easy drinking nature and numerous mixing options are one thing, but what I personally love most about Untold is the packaging, accessible for both men and women by bucking the ‘rum and pirates’ storyline that dominates the market. The unique bottle design, created by Aussie artists Andrew Archer and Tim Phibs, instead shoots for a colourful and urban feel. The bartenders in this case certainly had a point to prove about what bartenders do best, providing a tasty mixable option, but also a product that can also be enjoyed over ice or simply straight up.

One factor in the increasing popularity of spiced rum is probably the array of flavours that can be found in the various products: cinnamon, vanilla, star anise, clove, various fruits and ginger to name a few. The rum world appears to have an inexhaustible amount of ideas!

One trend, however, is a move away from super sweet spiced rums.

“Spiced rum is seeing a welcome change from the overly sweet and vanilla heavy offerings,” says Josh McIntyre, owner of Jamaica House in Sydney. “As rum consumer’s palates have evolved, drier and more sophisticated offerings are starting to emerge; flavours such a citrus, pimento, cloves and BARS&clubs 41

spiced rum

pepper are making their way to the forefront. Brands such as Chairman Reserve rum from St Lucia are a good example of this.”

In the past, brandy and whisk(e)y have always suited our thirst when it comes to something warming.

Spiced rum, however, is the exception, carrying those flavour profiles of spices that do make consumers somewhat curious, and intrigued as to what exactly is in that product.

Historically, spiced rum was just a sailor’s way of mixing spices to a rum to disguise its harshness.

Today however, producers are using an excellent quality base rum and extending its reach through good marketing and introducing new exotic nuances through spice infusions.

“Spiced rum is now a mainstay for any bar, even with the slight downturn in consumption,” says manager of The Rook in Sydney, Alex Dickson, pointing to the global downturn in rum consumption,

which declined 1.2% in 2016 according to IWSR. “One unique and delicious drop that I enjoy is Cargo Cult – very mixable in any drink or cocktail, with an enticing balance of vanilla custard, ginger bread and later hints of clove and baklava.”

In general, good spiced rum is crafted using the more expensive gold rum as a base, with the addition of spices such as vanilla, clove, cinnamon, rosemary, and aniseed. On occasion caramel is also added, but beware of cheaper brands which use lesser quality rum and apply caramel colouring to achieve the golden hue without the flavour.

Daniel Monk from the Rum Diary in Melbourne, said it perfectly: “Spiced rum is a great addition to the bar scene. In fact, go to a lot of bars and you will find a twisted classic with the addition of spiced rum on many lists.”

As a venue that creates its own bespoke spiced rum (Rum Diary Spiced Rum), Monk is

well positioned to comment on the category.

“The way we have designed the Rum Diary Spiced was for it to always be used in cocktails,” he explains. “The best thing about the balance of our rum is that it’s dependent on the ingredients of the cocktail. The rum will either push the flavour elements of the drink up, or the drink will lift the intensity of the spices to new level.”

Spiced rum is enjoying a renaissance as a flavour-filled character base for mixed drinks and cocktails. Expect certain characteristics: vanilla, ginger, clove and cinnamon, all tasty and exotic spices that conjure up the idea of sun kissed tropical beaches and warm climates. These flavour profiles are the key to balancing a solid drink for a customer or yourself to enjoy.

And remember: “variety is the spice of life”. There is every reason to search out new products, and try them.

DR SAMEDI Glass: Rocks or tall glass Ingredients: • 45ml Baron Samedi • 15ml Campari • 20ml fresh lime juice • 20ml grapefruit juice • 20ml simple syrup • 8 mint leaves • Crushed ice Method: Build in glass and swizzle.

Garnish: Mint sprig and a slice of grapefruit.

Why not use Baron Samedi in your bar this summer?

42 BARS&clubs

THE NEW TASTE OF THE WEEKEND

JOHNNIEWALKER.COM