FEATURE: CLASSIC DESSERTS

Going Global

Hospitality explores classic desserts across multiple cuisines.

WORDS Amy Northcott

PHOTOGRAPHY Markus Ravik for The Boom Boom Room; Jake Roden and Trend Agency for San Telmo Group

FINISHING OFF A dining experience with something sweet is a universal practice across the world. Whether it’s crème brûlée, bingsu, or tiramisu — each cuisine has its own classics for diners to leave a restaurant on a sweet note. Just like savoury dishes, classic desserts play an important role, ultimately showcasing the foundations of a cuisine as well as its traditions, techniques, and ingredients.

To find out more about classic desserts across South American and Japanese cuisines, Hospitality speaks with Marcelo Narvaez and Dwi Ayu from San Telmo Group and Lyndon Tyers from The Boom Boom Room.

South America-born Marcelo Narvaez from Melbourne’s San Telmo is serving up a taste of his homeland via the dessert menu. The head chef says featuring classic desserts is a key part of providing an authentic experience to diners. “It’s important for us to have classic Argentinian desserts because we want to reflect the culture of sharing much-loved dishes with people,” says Narvaez.

Classic dishes aren’t necessarily there to reinvent the wheel or surprise you with unexpected flavours but are meant to be reliable staples you know will hit the spot every time.

– Marcelo Narvaez

While it’s important to recreate foundational dishes, the wants and needs of the dining public need to be considered, too. “We strive to achieve a blend of traditional and modern elements, so we can recreate a trip to Argentina while also accommodating the tastes of the Australian public,” says the head chef. “[This is done] by replicating traditional recipes or incorporating South American elements into a new creation.”

Speaking more generally about classics, Narvaez believes they play an important role in a hospitality offering. “Classic dishes aren’t necessarily there to reinvent the wheel or surprise you with unexpected flavours,” he says.

“They are meant to be reliable staples you know will hit the spot every time. A classic has been popular for so long that people return to the restaurant time and time again to enjoy it.”

The head chef can attest to the longevity factor, too. Argentinian desserts such as alfajores and dulce de leche crème caramel have been on the menu for 12 years without change. “Our menu at San Telmo is ‘simple, done well’,” says Narvaez. “As a result, our desserts don’t change very often. We want customers to know that whenever they visit San Telmo, they can trust us to provide an experience that is just as memorable every time.”

Alfajores are traditional Argentine shortbread cookies with dulce de leche and white or dark chocolate ganache. “We’ve maintained many similarities with the traditional,” explains Narvaez. “[Just] with slight adjustments to the shortbread to make it more dense and slightly less sweet. It has desiccated coconut to finish instead of ganache.”

The dulce de leche crème caramel flan is another classic that has collected a cult following. Like alfajores, Narvaez and the team have altered the dish slightly to adjust it to the tastes of the Australian diner. “We cook the flan slightly less to ensure its consistency is fluffy and creamy,” explains the head chef. “Instead of topping it with whipped cream which is common in Argentina, we finish it with a scoop of dulce de leche and hazelnut praline.”

Over at San Telmo’s sister venue Pastuso in Melbourne, Head Chef Dwi Ayu is serving up the classic Latin American dessert tres leches. “It’s a sweet and fluffy sponge cake soaked in three kinds of milk: cream, evaporated, and condensed,” says the head chef. “Hence the name, which translates to ‘three milks’.”

Ayu sticks to the traditional recipe for the dish, but takes a more modern approach when it comes to the presentation. “We torch the soft meringue to give it a beautiful golden brown appearance and serve it with pisco-macerated berries,” he says. “It balances the sweetness and flavour of the dessert, and also introduces the iconic Peruvian spirit pisco into it.”

Like Narvaez, Ayu believes classic desserts play a role in showcasing a cuisine. “We believe it’s important to offer classic desserts to reflect the national cuisine we represent,” he says. “Peruvian culture is at the heart of everything we do, and offering tres leches allows us to maintain a strong cultural tie while also serving a dessert that is loved by our customers.”

At The Boom Boom Room in Brisbane, Head Chef Lyndon Tyers is serving classic flavours across a Japanese-inspired menu. “Japan has some great flavours when it comes to desserts,” says the head chef. “These can be found in fruits such as cherries, plums, and yuzu. Chestnuts are also common as well as matcha.” The menu lists classic desserts from other cuisines such as mousse and tarts made with Japanese elements. “I like to use the flavours in more modernised desserts. I think Aussie tastes prefer something familiar with a twist of Japanese flavour.” Examples include a yuzu tart with white chocolate ganache and a riff on an éclair with matcha. “We use unique ingredients such as matcha tea powder to add a vibrant colour and an interesting kick to our desserts.”

The venue’s nitro-frozen miso chocolate mousse is another example of teaming a classic Japanese element with a much-loved dessert application. “The miso adds richness to the dark chocolate, which pairs perfectly,” explains the chef. “It is one of the signature dishes at The Boom Boom Room and is definitely one of the highlights of the entire dining experience.”

Classic desserts such as dango and mochi also have a place on the menu. “Our dango is served traditionally, and you can’t beat it,” says Tyers. “Skewered, chewy mochi balls are grilled and doused in a warm, sweet soy glaze — the sweet and savoury aspects are truly captivating.” Mochi is another recognisable classic for diners, but has a Tyers touch. “There are numerous varieties of mochi each with a unique spin,” says the head chef. “Our mochi is very modern, and instead of a solid sweet rice centre, it has a soft, chewy exterior filled with fluffy white chocolate ganache and a tangy passionfruit jelly centre.”

Classic dessert dishes play an important role in showcasing the roots of a cuisine. Whether the desserts are served traditionally or heroed through modern techniques, classic iterations have long been memorable options for diners for good reason.

Create your own classic dessert with Nestlé Docello Panna Cotta Dessert Mix

Inspired by a traditional Italian recipe, the Nestlé Docello Panna Cotta Dessert Mix offers a smooth, creamy, and delightful dessert of exceptional quality. Its simplicity in preparation makes it an ideal base for unique desserts, allowing chefs to add a personal flair with chocolate, fruits, nuts, or coffee.

Part of an extensive range of dessert mixes, Nestlé Docello Panna Cotta Dessert Mix is available through foodservice distributors. For an array of tantalising recipe ideas, visit nestleprofessional.com.au.

Recipe: chocolate mousse cups

Looking to add a classic dessert to your menu? Try Kirsten Tibballs’ chocolate mousse cups using Bulla Thickened Cream.

Makes: 6 x 165ml cups

Preparation time: 25 minutes

Ingredients:

8 butterscotch biscuits, crushed

250ml Bulla Thickened Cream

250g good-quality milk chocolate

300ml Bulla Thickened Cream

100g good-quality milk chocolate

300ml Bulla Thickened Cream

Method

1. Divide the crushed butterscotch biscuits evenly between 6 165ml cups.

2. Boil the cream, then pour it over the milk chocolate. Whisk until the chocolate is completely melted and combined, then allow it to sit at room temperature for 10 minutes.

3. Semi-whip the cream until it has some body but still collapses, then fold it through the chocolate mixture.

4. Divide the mousse evenly between the 6 cups on top of the biscuit crumbs, then place into the refrigerator for a minimum of 1 hour to set.

5. Melt the milk chocolate and use it to pipe a pair of bunny ears for each mousse cup, then allow to set.

6. Whip the cream until it reaches piping consistency.

7. Pipe a swirl of whipped cream on top of the chilled chocolate mousse cups.

• Tyers serves passionfruit and white chocolate mochi

• Alfajores are traditional Argentine shortbread cookies

• Dulce de leche flan has been served at San Telmo for 12 years

• Tres leches translates to ‘three milks’ in Spanish