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Column: Troy Rhoades-Brown

10 years young

Troy Rhoades-Brown reflects on a decade as chef and owner of Muse Restaurant in the Hunter Valley.

RUNNING A RESTAURANT can bring an owner wonderful moments, whether it’s the customer satisfaction, a beautiful new dish, financial success or the sense of accomplishment that comes with working with a great team. But this is all challenged by difficult lows, financial mistakes, stress and the gentle reminder that great staff and a busy restaurant are never a guarantee. You haven’t secured it — you have to keep earning it.

Like most first-time owner– operators, it was a difficult start. Muse Restaurant is a large venue and the general demands of a fine dining restaurant in the building are incredibly high. With very little running capital, we were on the back foot from the start. I remember some Friday nights we would have 15 staff on and 15 customers in the dining room, but I knew deep down we were onto a good thing and just had to hang in there. It’s more than likely you will be giving much more to the restaurant than you will be taking from it. But at some point, it’s important for this to even out.

“Muse is something that represents me, my staff and the Hunter Valley.”

As expected, I had very little balance at the start; just long days in the kitchen and trying to take care of the other parts of the business in between. I was prioritising working in thebusiness and putting strongstandards in place and drivingthe team, which instilled therestaurant with a wonderfulculture and values.

By the fourth or fifth year, wehad gained a great reputation,won some excellent accoladesand had a wonderful following.We experienced a shift wherethe restaurant stopped feelinglike we were trading in a touristdestination with high and lowvisitation periods through thecalendar year — the restaurantwas consistently busy year-round.

I have two kids now and it’sparamount to have balancefor myself and pass that on tothe staff as well. We don’t runthe business on any form ofaggression or fear — we run iton passion, care and respectand we make sure everyoneenjoys their job. Everyonehas different expectationsand staff aren’t there to liveyour dream — you need topay attention and help themachieve what they want.

You need to drive your teamwith genuine enthusiasm,passion, care and positiveenergy. I have found myselfchoosing roles within thebusiness that challenge andexcite me. Restaurant servicewith the team still remains myfavourite part of the job, but Ienjoy taking care of the PR, HR,organising events, supportingand working alongside localsuppliers and producers, workingon new dishes, gardening andspending time with my kids.

Everyone’s story and path inthis industry is so unique andthere is no right or wrong towhat you choose to do andwhen you choose to do it. I’mlucky enough to own and workin a beautiful restaurant thatI love. Muse is something thatrepresents me, my staff and theHunter Valley. I’m 33 years oldand feel hungry and passionateabout the industry and there’sso much I still want to give. Museis now 10, and we are chargingforward with a youthful bouncein our step. ■

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