A match made in Bourgogne

A match madein Bourgogne

The historic region of Bourgogne offers sommeliers an extensive range of wines, ensuring there is a pairing for every occasion.

BOURGOGNE IS LAUDED for its wellknown appellations such as Chablis, Meursault and Gevrey-Chambertin. But wine professionals who dig a little deeper will uncover dozens of hidden gems and be rewarded with a diverse range of wines, all of which pair exceptionally with seasonal produce and dishes.

The 84 Appellations d’Origine Contrôlée (AOCs) are well worth decoding. A thorough understanding will allow sommeliers and front of house professionals to unlock the rich diversity of Bourgogne’s terroir and the expertise of its winemakers. A wine professional who can discern the difference between a white wine of Bourgogne from the Grand Auxerrois and one from the Côte Chalonnaise will be well placed to make the perfect pairing.

The Régionale appellations are responsible for 52 per cent of production in the region. Among them, you’ll find the Bourgogne and Mâcon plus geographical denomination which identifies certain areas that have specific characteristics and stricter production rules. The Bourgogne appellation features 13 geographical denominations, including Bourgogne Chitry and Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise. The Mâcon appellation covers a wider region, comprising 27 geographicaldenominations such as La Roche-Vineuseand Verzé.

When it comes to AOC Régionale plusgeographical denomination, the originscan be extremely precise: some wines aremade from grapes grown on very smallerparcels of land, which means there is amore defined notion of terroir.

“Even within a restricted region, there are many different terroirs and expositions,” explains Thiébault Huber, former sommelier, chairman of the Winegrowers and AOCs Syndicate inBourgogne (CAVB) and the winemaker behind Domaine Huber-Verdereau. “There can be a huge difference, especially north to south, between Grand Auxerrois and Mâconnais. It’s a gift to the consumer; there are so many types of wine to pair [food] with.”

Here, Huber shares his tips forfinding the perfect match with fiveof Bourgogne’s hidden gems.

BOURGOGNE CHITRY, CUVÉE OLYMPE, 2017, OLIVIER MORIN

Made of 100 per cent Chardonnay grapes, this wine is grown on clay limestone marls of the upper Jurassic period. The 2017 vintage has exceptional minerality and a saline mouth as well as an intense nose with white flower aromas. Fat and elegant, the wine is fresh with great balance, making it a wonderful match for seafood.

“This kind of wine could be perfect with Scandinavian food, fish and sushi with this acidity,” says Huber.

In fact, Bourgogne Chitry is highly flexible. “Many Bourgogne Chitry are very easy to drink as an aperitif,” Huber says. Generally, Huber suggests pairing Bourgogne Chitry with fresh, acidic food. The saline wines from this appellation are perfect for enhancing the flavours of native Australian produce such as fingerlime, saltbush or seaside greens such as karkalla and samphire.

MÂCON-VERZÉ, 2016, DOMAINE LEFLAIVE

Mâcon-Verzé made with 100 per cent Chardonnay grape is a Mâcon plus geographical denomination. The buds usually burst seven to 10 days earlier in Mâcon than they do further north, making for richer, rounder wines. Winemakers tend to age the wines in stainless-steel tanks, leading to highly expressive and aromatic wines.

While the Mâcon-Verzé pairs well with seafood and creamy cheeses, Huber says the richer wine can stand up better to heavier dishes that involve more cooking, for instance Kurobuta pork; squid ink risotto; lightly smoked vegetable purees or a mild XO sauce.

For those adventurous enough to attempt a contrasting match, Huber says a dry goat cheese could work well: “The Mâcon-Verzé will be very rich, so here, we’re more in the clash zone. The intensity will be matched.”

The Mâcon-Verzé can adapt well throughout several courses, but if spice is on the menu, it is best to make the switch to a red Bourgogne wine.

BOURGOGNE HAUTES CÔTES DE NUITS, 2017, DOMAINE NUDANT

Known for their fruity characteristics, Pinot Noir from Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits are easy to drink and the region has remained popular over the years. “The 2017 vintage is a complex wine with spicy notes,” says Huber. “If someone doesn’t like white, this could be a delicious aperitif by the glass. It will also pair particularly well with grilled, barbecue-style meats, cooked with just a little pepper and salt.”

RULLY “MONTMORIN”, 2016, DOMAINE JEAN CHARTRON

According to Huber, Côte Chalonnaise, where Rully “Montmorin” is situated, produces both white and red wines but is better known for the former. The region’s winemakers age their Chardonnays in barrels longer than Bourgogne Chitry and Mâcon-Verzé, creating a riper wine with a little more complexity and stronger oak characteristics.

Like the Bourgogne Chitry and the Mâcon-Verzé, the 2016 Rully “Montmorin” is also an ideal companion for fish. With minerality that appears immediately on the palate and lingers until the final note of salinity, Huber says the wine is truly enjoyable with scallops, lobster, abalone and razor clams.

Rully “Montmorin” is best appreciated between four and five years after bottling, Huber says, when the nose is much more open and aromatic. Its subtle oakiness and good balance of acidity make it effortless to pair.

SAVIGNY-LES-BEAUNE, 2015, DOMAINE PAVELOT FRERES

The village of Savigny-les-Beaune is a little less famous than the nearby villages of Aloxe-Corton or Beaune, but its wines are well worth exploring.

Made with grapes from several parcels in the village with very diverse geography, soil type and exposure, this wine has good complexity. Fresh, extremely versatile with an aromatic nose, the palate is dominated by fruity notes which is a typical characteristic of the Savigny vineyards.

“Wine from this area is able to support food that’s a little spicy,” says Huber. “Thai and Mexican will be perfect with Savigny-les-Beaune. However, it’s not a wine suited as an aperitif — it’s a little too full-bodied.”

Huber recommends dishes with strong, gamey meats or aromatic sauces such as coq au vin or duck. “The 2015 is a very nice vintage,” he adds. “But if you need a red that’s a little stronger, choose something from Grand Auxerrois that’s less than five years old. You’ll still have the fresh red fruit as well as some tannins and a big structure that is able to support a spicier, gamey dish. If you have an older wine, you should find a dish that’s a little softer on the spice notes or a riper cheese for sure.”

Each of these five wines has its own identity, making them a good representation of Bourgogne wines; sommeliers and other hospitality professionals can be assured of their quality, terroir and value.

With endless pairing possibilities that suit current local trends and dining styles, as well as a range of cuisines and produce, they are an excellent choice for restaurants looking to refresh their wine lists ahead of spring and summer.

To learn more about potential food and wine pairings, follow Bourgogne Wines on social media and make use of the organisation’s e-learning facilities on the website.

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