6 minute read
The new old world
WITH ITS ANCIENT SOIL AND HISTORIC VINEYARDS THE BAROSSA IS AN OLD WORLD WINE REGION IN A NEW WORLD COUNTRY AND ANDY YOUNG TAKES A LOOK AT HOW THE REGION IS PERFORMING AND WHAT YOU CAN LOOK FORWARD TO FROM THE 2018 VINTAGE.
The Barossa is a key Australian wine region, important to the industry as a whole and important to many retailers with the sales opportunities and revenues that wines from the region bring.
Chateau Tanunda’s view across the Barossa.
It’s a region that brings to life Australian wine in a unique way, from its powerhouse Shiraz to its elegant Riesling as well as Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon, Semillon and Chardonnay, the Barossa justifiably has the tag of one of the world’s great wine regions.
When Adelaide was named recently as one of the world’s ‘Great Wine Capitals’, the Barossa was an integral part of that process. It’s with good reason as well that the Barossa is so well regarded, not just in Australia but around the world: Penfolds Grange and Henschke Hill of Grace are two wines that are some of Australia’s most premium and sought after, and both are Barossa Shiraz.
Since 1842, wine has been a way of life in Barossa and today the region is home to more than 550 grape-growing families, supplying grapes to more than 170 wine companies. Many of those families are now in the sixth generation and still working the same plot of land and utilising the wonderful soil that the region offers.
One winery that is making the most of the terroir that the Barossa offers is Château Tanunda, which is a showcase of the Barossa’s genuine wine culture over three centuries, having been built in 1890. Privately owned by the Geber family and sold in 45 countries, Château Tanunda is an icon of the Barossa, and as such has produced a range which highlights the diversity of the region’s soil which is among the oldest and most diverse in the world. The Terroirs of the Barossa range, showcases the unique nature of the Barossa’s terroir, as the winery’s owner John Geber explains, “We take grapes from the Ebenezer district, Eden Valley, the Maranaga district and Greenock, all districts that make up the Barossa. These are four different wines, all the same variety, made by the same winemaker, with the same gentle basket-pressed process, and aged in the same French oak barrels but producing very different flavour profiles.
Geber adds, “A true discovery of the Barossa, these wines are comparable to some of the best single vineyard styles in the world. The Ebenezer District Shiraz was recently judged the best 2016 Barossa Shiraz by wine writer Huon Hooke, with the 2016 vintage regarded as the best since 1998.”
THE 2018 VINTAGE
So while we already know what to expect from the 2016 vintage, what can we look forward to from the 2018 vintage? Many of the region’s winemakers welcomed the ‘Indian summer’ that was experienced with above average temperatures in March and early April, as Trina Smith the Winemaker at Jacob’s Creek explains, “In the Barossa there were higher than average winter rainfalls, but less than average spring and summer rainfalls. January and February were warm and dry, which led to slightly lower crops than anticipated.
“However, the ‘Indian summer’ of March and early April was well received with average temperatures and only a small amount of rain in the Barossa and Eden Valley. It was perfect for ending the 2018 vintage.
“Highlights include some lovely vibrant flavours and colour in the Shiraz parcels from the Barossa Valley. The Chardonnay from Eden Valley is maintaining its acid, and showcasing the characteristic citrus and grapefruit notes.”
Yalumba’s Head of Winemaking, Louisa Rose was similarly excited by how both the reds and whites are looking for this year’s vintage, saying, “Flavours and colours in reds are wonderful, and natural acids in the Eden Valley whites surprisingly high, with early standout varieties this year including Riesling, Chardonnay, Shiraz, Grenache and Cabernet.”
Torbreck’s Chief Winemaker, Ian Hongell said that the cold and dry start to winter, followed by above average rain in July and August, plus further rainfall as the temperatures started to warm up had “resulted in good canopy growth and bunch formation”, which set the vineyards up well for the summer months. The lack of further significant heatwaves meant that the season progressed well.
He adds, “The Torbreck 2018 vintage commenced on 12 February, harvesting Semillon from the Philippou vineyard in the western edge of Rowland Flat. By the beginning of April, our other white varieties of Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier had all been picked. Good flavours were achieved across the sites and show great vibrancy and texture.
“Yields have been slightly down due to the drier conditions over summer, however the slow ripening from the mild temperatures has allowed for great colour and flavour development.”
A vineyard picnic at Jacob’s Creek.
The optimism for a strong 2018 vintage continues at Château Tanunda as well with what Geber describes as “one of the most exceptional long Indian summers in recent memory”. Adding, “Warm days and cool nights. Deep red colours and great balance in the wines. With vintage ending on 2 May the patient pickers can expect great flavours”.
KEY VARIETALS
It’s easy to point to the key drivers from the region as being Barossa Valley Shiraz and Eden Valley Riesling and there is no doubting the quality and importance of these wines. The 2018 Australian Liquor Stores Association (ALSA) and IRI State of the Industry Report, highlighted Shiraz as the second highest growth varietal in 2017 – secondly only to rosé. Over the course of 2017 the Shiraz segment grew by five per cent, adding $27m, so it remains a massively important grape for Australian retailers, but Smith says that the winemakers are always looking to introduce good quality wines.
Understanding white wines from the Barossa.
“Shiraz is very important to us as the Barossa is Jacob’s Creek’s home. There were also some lovely diverse Grenache and Tempranillo coming out of the Barossa in 2018. For whites, Eden Valley is very important to us, for both Riesling and Chardonnay, but in regard to new white varietals at present we are more looking into the Adelaide Hills. We are always experimenting and looking for different varieties in varying regions.”
A similar sentiment comes from Geber, who says “we are highlighting that the Barossa is much more than Shiraz. We have some of the oldest and rarest producing vineyards in the world. The 1858 Field Blend, for example, we believe could be the oldest field blend in the world, made up of Mourvèdre, Grenache and Malbec. As far as we know, the Malbec could be the oldest Malbec in the world”.
View of Barossa Hills.
EXCEPTIONAL ELEGANCE
Wines from the Barossa are as elegant and powerful as ever and remain hugely important to retailers, especially with the ALSA-IRI Report highlighting that wines priced $20-$29.99 are showing the strongest growth of all the price brackets.
Geber explains, “This is a critical [price] point to be involved in. When you compare our Barossa quality/price ratio, we compete equally with the best of Napa and Bordeaux which are at least twice our price. With greater consumer awareness of responsible drinking retailers can encourage consumers to drink one great bottle of Grand Barossa rather than two average cheaper wines”.
In summing what makes the region so special, Geber adds, “Barossa has much variation and is a mini wine world in a region. We at Château Tanunda will always be heavyweight boxers but we will be an elegant heavyweight boxer like Mohammed Ali – we have weight and exceptional elegance”.
Chateau Tanunda’s vines.
