7 minute read
WHISKY: SLÀINTE MHATH! (CHEERS!)
Slàinte Mhath (Cheers!)
Settle down with a dram of the good stuff as Caoimhe Hanrahan-Lawrence uncovers the secrets of Scotch and Irish whisk(e)y.
Though the exact dates are difficult to determine, the Scots and the Irish have been producing whisk(e)y since at least the 1400s. The Gaelic roots of whisky are evident even in its name, which is derived from the Gaelic phrase uisge beatha, meaning waters of life. Now, Scotland is known as one of, if not the most prestigious producers of whisky throughout the world.
Now, modern Scotch whisky must be distilled within Scotland, made from 100 per cent malted barley, and aged in oak barrels for a minimum of three years, and Irish whiskey is subject to similar regulations. The category boasts centuries of history and prestige, but even now the landscape is evolving, affected by elements such as changing consumer demographics and influences from New World whisky markets.
A different drinker
Australia is quickly developing into a mature and experimental market for Scotch whisky, as Trent Chapman, Beam Suntory Marketing Director Oceania has explained.
“Australians are becoming increasingly open to experimentation as the category grows. We realise it’s not a ‘one size fits all’. There is still brand loyalty, but we are seeing a thirst to try something different, whether that be within your favourite brand’s range or an entirely new selection,” Chapman said.
Many of the people who spoke to National Liquor News noted a change in the demographic of whisky drinkers. No longer just the stereotypical older, affluent man, whisky drinkers are coming from all ages, genders, and economic positions. Mark Bruce, The Dalmore’s Whisky Specialist, said that this is in part due to brands introducing new strategies to appeal to a wider range of consumers.
“We are definitely seeing more younger drinkers coming into Scotch whisky. I think a lot of this has to do with our industry working hard to better understand the younger consumer. With those learnings has come a greater emphasis on creating experiences that drive trial and engagement in person and on social media. I also think that in the past whisky has been considered an older person’s drink of choice and a confusing category to be a part of – brands have done a great job of making their products far more accessible and retailers are doing a good job of making the category easier to navigate,” Bruce explained.
Emma Cookson, Australian Brand Ambassador for Bunnahabhain and Deanston, has noticed that older whisky consumers have been very welcoming to the newer category entrants.
“While at the same time I’ve noticed this acceptance and embracing of modern and younger whisky consumers by the older generations of whisky enthusiasts who want to share their love of the spirit with anyone willing and open to listen,” Cookson said.
Bruce explained how different categories of whisky drinkers choose their whisky.
“I think the majority of Australian consumers are buying the whisky brand they know, trust or have been recommended to and have begun to build a relationship with,” said Bruce.
This is different to the well-informed community of whisky enthusiasts.
“They prefer those drams higher in alcohol, natural in colour and non-chill filtered. They’re wanting to get as close to the distillery and casks as possible – they’ll try as many different types and styles of whisky as possible,” he described.
Rambling through regions
Previously, Scotch whisky has been categorised by various regions, but Spirits Academy National Manager Mark Hickey explained that this has changed over the years.
“In the past, Scotch whisky was best explained by regional flavours rather than the raw materials and how it is produced. These regional flavours were explained as being characteristic to the region – lowland whiskies were light and contained floral and fruity characteristics, whereas Speyside had apples, pears, vanilla and honey, for example. Scotch whisky today is best explained by the decisions which are made by the distillery workers, rather than being a regional expression,” Hickey argued.
However, regional distinctions are still useful for some consumers, particularly those who are beginning to explore the category.
Irish whiskey is going through an amazing boom at the moment and seems to still be gathering speed,
-Jon Minihan, Brand Specialist for Pernod Ricard
A short trip across the Irish Sea reveals another whiskey producing nation in Ireland. There is some friendly rivalry between Scotland and Ireland as to who produced the first whisk(e)y, but suffice it to say that Irish whiskey has a history as old and storied as that of Scotch. Jon Minihan, Brand Specialist for Pernod Ricard, explained what makes Irish whiskey distinct.
“In terms of historical styles, the Irish leant into the single pot still style and Scottish producers leaned into single malt. […] Irish whiskey is meant to be more sessionable than their single malt cousins. Irish whiskey is typically triple-distilled, which results in a smoother and more refined spirit,” Minihan said.
The Irish whiskey industry is flourishing, with new market entrants bringing interest to the category.
“Irish whiskey is going through an amazing boom at the moment and seems to still be gathering speed. We went through a rather barren period with only a handful of distilleries producing over a period of about 60 years, but those times are gone. More and more craft distilleries are popping up and it is fantastic to see,” says Minihan.
Cask creativity
Despite the notoriously strict regulations of Scotch whisky, there have been some exciting innovations in the category. Of course, these regulations ensure the quality of Scotch whisky, as Aaron Castle, Scotch & Cognac Brand Manager for Pernod Ricard, explained.
“There are definitely some strict regulations in place, but these are necessary to preserve the quality of the liquid that is deemed to be a Scotch. It’s amazing to see the results you can get by simply experimenting with different blends, casks and strengths,” said Castle.
Growth in international whiskies is pushing the Scotch category to innovate, as consumers seek out new flavours.
“Especially with these new world distilleries nipping at their heels from Taiwan to India, and of course Australia, there will be more pressure to progress their own innovation and not be left behind,” said Cookson.
Even the most traditional distilleries are experimenting with new things.
“I think like in any industry, the desire for innovation and experimentation is strong, and we’re seeing that with these modern Scottish distilleries who are pushing the boundaries of what is allowed, experimenting with yeast strains, grain types, terroir, and of course cask types. We’ve seen more heritage distilleries experimenting with cask types recently, proving that even the die-hard traditional Scotch whisky brands are adapting and experimenting,” Cookson added.
Excitingly, we are seeing a number of new cask finishes, such as tequila cask whisky. The use of tequila casks for Scotch whisky became legal in 2019 and is featured in new releases such as Deanston Tequila Cask Finish and Chivas Regal Extra Tequila Cask.
“By selectively finishing a portion of the whisky in ex-tequila casks, we end up with something that is deliciously smooth, light, and fruity. It also helps to break down some of the perceived barriers to Scotch, by experimenting with cask finishes that might feel more accessible to non-Scotch drinkers such as tequila,” said Castle.
There is still brand loyalty, but we are seeing a thirst to try something different, whether that be within your favourite brand’s range or an entirely new selection,
-Chapman, Marketing Director Oceania, Beam Suntory
Cookson is optimistic about the introduction of new cask finishes in the future.
“While we won’t technically see a cider cask finished whisky any time soon, I think the introduction of Calvados, Tequila, Sake, and other barrel aged spirit casks will be a really fun time for the Scotch whisky industry as a whole, and I have no doubt that in 20 to 30 years the Scotch Whisky Association will continue innovating, and perhaps permit new types of experimentation within the category,” says Cookson.
