11 minute read
AESTHETICS: RETINOL
The ‘R’ Word
If there was a holy grail ingredient in skincare, for most it would be Retinol. We talk to skin experts on how they use and prescribe it.
Dr Samantha Davidson, GC Dermatology Clinic
As a dermatologist, do you recommend retinol to every skin type, even sensitive skin?
Retinol is a well studied, efficacious active ingredient, that I recommend most patients over the age of 30 incorporate into their skincare regime. At this point we are looking at maintaining skin integrity, minimising the loss of collagen and elastin, preventing pigmentation and encouraging healthy keratinocyte (skin cell) turnover. Younger people may use retinol for acne prone skin, oily skin, enlarged pores and pigmentation issues, but this age group doesn’t necessarily ‘need retinol’.
Dr Samantha Davidson, GC Dermatology Clinic
Sensitive skin types can usually tolerate a retinol and actually benefit from its effects in strengthening the skin barrier, however, I would recommend patients start slowly and gradually build up to frequent use. They can start with twice weekly application and increase from here. The key is consistency in application, which is more important than frequency. Rosacea and acne-prone patients can definitely benefit from retinol as it decreases sebum (oil production) which is a key component in causing these conditions.
I wouldn’t necessarily recommend retinol to all skin conditions as this includes a large array of complex, medical conditions, for which retinol is not suitable, for example patients with more eczema prone skin, are likely to avoid retinol when they have active flares. But all skin types (dry, sensitive, oily, normal, etc) can usually include retinol in some form.
There are a lot of retinol products with varying price points out there, are they all the same?
There are products with price points for all budgets, but more expensive doesn’t necessarily mean better. CeraVe products are formulated for sensitive skin, so don’t include fragrances or additional preservatives that may increase the cost of the product. They have active ingredients that are well studied and have been long demonstrated to work in conjunction with Vitamin C and Retinol.
What kind of patient would benefit more from a retinal than a retinol?
Retinal is a stronger active ingredient than retinol, however with that increased strength often comes increased irritancy, less stability and increased sun sensitivity. Some peoples’ skin types can tolerate retinal, but most people are unable to use it as frequently, which then decreases efficacy.
It is better to use a product that is not as strong, more frequently, and gain consistency with your application and skincare routine, than to use a stronger product less frequently.
If you get regular facial treatments, it’s often recommended to not use any actives the week prior and post treatment, which disrupts the regularity of retinol use. How should patients navigate this?
First check with the person doing your skin treatments, as if they are very frequent, they may be mild treatments, in which case you don’t need to stop your retinol. Alternatively, if you do have regular skin treatments, these are designed to improve structure of your epidermal layer (skin barrier) and the retinol can work in conjunction with this and then the retinol only needs to be stopped for two - three days after a procedure.
If you are having a treatment such as a medium - deep chemical peel or an ablative laser, it is advisable to cease your retinol three to five days prior, and not recommence retinol until peeling or crusting of the skin has ceased. Recommencing skincare with an encapsulated retinol (such as CeraVe retinol) is great at this point as it is formulated for sensitive skin with Niacinamide and Hyaluronic acid to hydrate and sooth the skin whilst the retinol becomes active. Most people do a series of these once or twice per year so that the rest of the year they can utilise their retinol consistently.
Dr Howard Murad, Founder of Murad
What makes a retinoid product effective?
Retinol is well-known as the gold standard for anti-aging ingredients, that’s why my patients ask for it frequently. However, I saw a significant need for a new product that worked more quickly and didn’t cause irritation and dryness. After years of research and development, I’m proud to say we have finally perfected the science with our revolutionary line of Retinol products: Retinol Youth Renewal Serum, Retinol Youth Renewal Eye Cream, Retinol Youth Renewal Night Cream, and the latest, Retinol youth Renewal Eye Masks.
Dr Howard Murad, Founder of Murad
What’s exciting about this revolutionary new product range is that it gets to work quickly and without any of the irritation of traditional retinol formulas. The serum was the number one retinol product in the U.S. three years in a row and is clinically proven to deliver results in 2 weeks. And the serum and night cream reduce the appearance of wrinkles 3x better when used together.
What’s different about Murad’s retinol?
Many retinol formulas rely on a single form of retinol and may take several weeks to deliver results, and cause irritation. Retinol is not stable, and this makes it a more difficult ingredient to work with. Murad’s range of retinol products overcome these traditional drawbacks with its breakthrough Retinol Tri-Active Technology.
BEFORE
AFTER TWO WEEKS
It’s comprised of a fast-acting retinoid, time-released retinol, and a booster to optimise performance and quickly deliver visible results with minimised side effects. These results include a visible reduction in the appearance of wrinkles and dramatic improvements in texture, tone, and radiance. On top of this, all our products include antiinflammatories, antioxidants, and hydrators.
Retinoid Superstars
These professional retinoid skincare heroes pack a punch.
DOCTOR BABOR PRO A Retinol Concentrate
Retinyl palmitate and stable retinol esters (in the form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate) work to protect the cells from oxidative damage and prevent premature ageing in this wonder-filled concentrate. With this perfect blend of two innovative retinoids, it can achieve direct access into the cell, making it the ultimate anti-aging hero. This blend is amazing for blackheads, whiteheads, stubborn texture, and our favourite- balancing and regulating oil flow. Daily use encourages cell turnover, stimulates collagen synthesis, and refines skin texture. This is a true all-rounder, appropriate for all skin types as initial tolerance can be introduced slowly.
Ultraderm Rapid Retinol Concentrate
Rapid Retinol Concentrate contains a synergistic blend of Retinol (1%), Peptides, Liposhield and other performance actives to assist rejuvenate, refine and illuminate the skin. It helps promote a more youthful complexion by reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and pigmentation whilst improving skin laxity and dryness. It also works as a barrier to prevent oxidative stress from blue light emissions.
- Muntaha Bourke, Beauty on Queen
Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Night Cream
A fast-acting retinoid, a time-released retinol and a retinol booster helps fight lines and wrinkles, even skin tone, and boost radiance. Niacinamide and Dipeptide strengthen the skin’s protective barrier, while leaving skin with a firmer, more lifted appearance. Murad’s potent-yet-gentle formula equals results that are impressive, not aggressive.
Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Retinol Serum
The Retinol used in the new Dynamic Skin Retinol Serum is a 3.5% Retinoid Complex containing Retinol, which improves texture and firmness and fades the appearance of dark spots, as well as Encapsulated Retinol Spheres, which carry time released Retinol to improve fine lines and wrinkles, and even skin tone. The addition of Granactive Retinoid, a stable retinoid ester further reduces fine lines, wrinkles, pores, and the appearance of dark spots as well as skin smoothness, and 10 HAS/ hydroxysteric acid (Retinol Booster) works to boost the already potent abilities of Retinol. This formula is a high-dose, fast-acting multi-retinoid serum with a skin health approach for resilient skin with fine lines and wrinkles, rough skin, open pores, dark spots and uneven skin tone.
Medik8 Crystal Retinal
Medik8 Crystal Retinal harnesses retinaldehyde, a next generation vitamin A molecule. Unlike retinol, which must first be converted to retinaldehyde and then to retinoic acid within the skin, Crystal Retinal only requires one conversion to retinoic acid. Delivering results up to 11 times faster than classic forms of retinol, retinaldehyde rapidly resurfaces the skin while helping to plump the complexion. Delivered in a crystal encapsulation system, the active is time-released throughout the night. This means retinaldehyde is just as gentle on the skin as retinol but has effects similar to prescription-strength retinoic acid.
Unlike other forms of vitamin A, retinaldehyde also has the added benefit of having direct bacterial action, making it the ideal anti-ageing ingredients for blemishprone skin. Medik8 Crystal Retinal is suitable for all types of skin and is available in five strengths – from Crystal Retinal 1 formulated for sensitive skin right up to Crystal
SkinMTX Intense RejuvorA
SkinMTX Intense RejuvorA is a vitamin A complex that uses a unique encapsulation system to effectively deliver retinol into the skin without causing sensitivity or irritation. The triple protection system stabilises retinol and minimises its exposure to the environment which leads to oxidation, ensuring it is delivered efficaciously and effectively into the skin.
Intense RejuvorA Cream demonstrates a vast improvement in efficacy and stability compared to conventional retinol, helping provide stellar protection against free radical damage, minimising the appearance of lines and wrinkles, brightening of the skin, and overall improvement of skin texture, tone, and hydration levels.
The formulation has also been infused with duo-vitamin ascorbyl glucoside and the blend of 10 natural calming essences of BioCalm10™ for optimum skin rejuvenation results. It’s also proven to have high stability, even in high temperatures. With impressive clinically-proven results exhibiting a 97% higher stability level, 15% higher skin regeneration benefits, 15% anti-wrinkle action, and a 50% reduction in skin irritation, SkinMTX Intense RejuvorA Cream provides intensive retinol
mesoestetic post peel 1% retinol concentrate
mesoestetic’s post-peel 1% retinol concentrate has a high retinol concentration in a lightweight serum texture that is designed to help enhance the results of the mesopeel professional peels and be used to visibly brighten, moisturise and unify skin tone at home. The post-peel 1% retinol concentrate is a retinol based formula that helps combat visible signs of ageing, with rebalancing benefits and antioxidant support.
Thanks to a precise combination of active ingredients, it significantly improves the appearance of wrinkles and skin elasticity while helping visibly plump the complexion. It improves the appearance of skin texture and visibly softens wrinkles and expression lines. Vitamin E and B5 have an antioxidant and rebalancing effect, while Centella asiatica has restoring properties.
Skinbetter Science AlphaRet Overnight Cream
Multiple award-winning AlphaRet® Overnight Cream is a complete one-step nightly treatment containing scientifically validated, revolutionary retinoid technology to target skin aging. Suitable for all skin types, the cream features a unique ingredient that is made up of a retinoid combined with an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that provides visible skin rejuvenation with little-to-no irritation. The product is particularly effective on dry and dehydrated skin as well as ageing skin.
