PERFECT PAIRINGS

PERFECT PAIRINGS

The right white wine can create a winning match with your favourite dish

WHITE WINE AND FOOD

If you have been led to believe a steak tartare and white wine can’t match – think again. Of the many wine and food pairing experiences I have conducted or encountered, one stands out as a ‘How did that work?’ experience. The pairing was steak tartare and Chablis (Chardonnay/ white Burgundy – no oak). Keep reading.

Wine and food pairing can be categorised as either ‘complementary’, ‘contrasting’, or ‘matching’.

A complementary match means the wine or beverage stand happily side by side, with neither having any particular impact on the other: think shepherd’s pie and a fruity Merlot.

Contrasting food and wine is when the food and wine each offer a different set of attributes resulting in new synergies, without compromising the structure or flavour of either the wine or the food. A simple example is the pairing of a high acid white wine with residual sugar (like a German Riesling) harmoniously contrasting with Cajun spiced crab cakes.

Matching is what is generally thought of when food and wine pairing is discussed. Both wine and food have structural attributes in common, and the food changes the taster’s perception of the wine (or vice versa) in a positive way. The steak tartare match that I loved worked in a similar way; a dry, high acid white wine contrasting the fatty, richness of the meat, also piercing the richness of the accompanying egg yolk and matching the impact of mustard.

“If it’s smoked – bring on the oak” is a classic phrase which highlights how a white wine with barrel fermentation or barrel-aged characters can work well with smoked, charred, seared, burned or caramelised foods. This is because the preparation or cooking techniques makes the wine taster think the oak in the wine has become less assertive, smoother, sweeter and more integrated – think smoked trout and oak-aged Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc; chargrilled pork with a Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay.

Many white wines suit appetisers, starters and moderately weighted main courses. A key point to consider is the weight and intensity of the food, and then match a wine that has similar attributes. Caesar salad and Sauvignon Blanc work well together because Sauvignon Blanc is a high-impact wine, and the red wine vinegar, parmesan cheese and lemon juice in a

Caesar Salad are high impact ingredients. A wine with high acidity is needed to balance the acidity in the food. Off-dry Riesling is also an excellent choice. Sweetcorn fritters with crème fraĭche can be great with Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer or Chardonnay. Pinot Gris often has a little residual sugar, making the wine just off-dry in style and medium-weight. Sweetcorn is sweet too and fritters generally medium weight, and the creamy, slightly acidic topping creates a balanced mouthfeel.

However, if you change your fritter’s topping - change the wine. Sweetcorn fritters with tomato chutney requires a wine with more weight and sugar, or a fruity core to contrast the spice and acidity of chutney. Gewürztraminer can be the perfect wine for this pairing. Sweetcorn fritters with a rasher of smoked bacon or a creambased sauce will require a wine with a lot more weight and richness. This is where Chardonnay steps in, matching the weight of the cream and the charring of the fritter while providing a fruity contrast in taste.

Sweet wine as a pairing for food other than cheeses or dessert can be a fun journey. Hot and sour soups pair beautifully with sweet wine, as do classic Indian and Thai foods, or a rich duck liver pate.

To achieve successful wine and food pairings, always consider the weight and intensity of both the food and wine, acidity levels, cooking mediums and seasonings. The key to success is have fun – and don’t forget to taste before you serve. Some theoretically successful pairings can go horribly wrong!

“CONSIDER THE FOOD’S WEIGHT AND INTENSITY... [LIKE] CAESAR SALAD WITH SAUVIGNON BLANC”