A Family Affair

THE LE BRUN FAMILY HAS BEEN MAKING MÉTHODE TRADITIONELLE IN MARLBOROUGH FOR 40 YEARS, BUT ITS HISTORY IN PRODUCING PREMIUM BUBBLES GOES BACK MUCH FURTHER...

The No.1 Family Estate wine journey began in New Zealand in the 1970s, but the Le Brun family’s winemaking history reaches back more than 335 years to the Champagne region of France, with the first record of a Le Brun planting vines in Champagne in 1684.

From a young age, Daniel Le Brun was immersed in the family vineyards and Champagne production in the village of Monthelon. He studied winemaking and oenology at the Champagne school in Avize. After listening to tales from seasonal grape pickers he visited New Zealand, saw the huge potential and decided to emigrate. Considering he was the eldest son, his decision came as a deep shock to his family and neighbours.

“I was convinced right from the start that New Zealand could produce a world-class sparkling wine,” says Daniel.

Arriving in New Zealand in 1975, Daniel began investigating the regions, with a view to planting his first Méthode Traditionelle vineyard.

When he made his way down to Marlborough “his excitement at what he discovered was palpable and unstoppable,” says Daniel’s wife Adele. “The writing was on the wall – he saw in Marlborough a combination of climate and soils that could create a MéthodeTraditionelle to rival those wines of his native Champagne.”

But first, a wedding. Kiwi Adele and Daniel were married in 1979 in Rotorua, and in June 1980, daughter Virginie was born. Four months later the time was right, and the family moved to Marlborough, and in possession of his Rotorua-grown nursery vines, Daniel finally planted his first Méthode Traditionelle vineyard, under his first venture, in Marlborough’s Wairau Valley.

Daniel’s second Méthode vineyard in Marlborough, and his second venture, No.1 Family Estate, is the only winery in New Zealand dedicated exclusively to the production of Méthode Traditionelle, or as it was referred to then, Méthode Champenoise.

“There were no Champagne varietals grown in Marlborough at the time,” says Adele. “It was predominantly Müller-Thurgau, a small amount of Sauvignon Blanc and some Riesling.”

Daniel Le Brun, winemaker and owner

“When Daniel first arrived in New Zealand, the growing techniques and production methods used in Champagne were unknown here. He was a pioneer for classic Méthode Traditionelle as a commercial venture and became known in the industry as the ‘crazy Frenchman’.”

Some of the ‘crazy’ label was brought about by him planting his vines close together to put them under stress, which ultimately produced better quality fruit. Another ‘crazy’ moment was the shock and horror he caused by unearthing a hill, where Daniel built two underground cellars in which his future Méthodes would undergo their second fermentation in the bottle, in cool and stable conditions, as is the norm in Champagne.

Daniel was also the first winemaker to import Champagne yeast into the Southern Hemisphere as well as specialised equipment from the region, which included a machine for disgorging the frozen plug and gyro pallets that gently tilt and turn the bottles, replicating the riddling process - once done painstakingly by hand.

The only New Zealand sparkling wines available on the market at that time were created in a ‘soda stream’ method, by adding CO2 to create the bubble. Champagne bubbles, or mousse, are created during the second fermentation inside each bottle. The Champagne method should take at least two and a half years from picking the grapes to release.

“Which incidentally Daniel did by hand for the first couple of years in Marlborough,” adds Adele.

“In the early days it was impossible, unlike now, to purchase suitable (classical) Méthode Traditionelle varietals from growers,” says Adele. “After planting our 30 acres in 1980 it took three years before the first harvest. Daniel worked tirelessly. After spending the day setting vineyards for absentee developers, he continued after hours, from 5pm until sometimes past midnight on our own vineyard. There were no weekends for the Le Brun family. The neighbours called me ‘the widow’.”

The Le Brun family, from left: Virginie, Daniel, Adele and Rémy The No.1 Family Estate cellar door in Marlborough

“The challenges along the way have been varied and plentiful, as in any pioneering venture over a 40-year span. From the Rogernomics economic policy in the 1980s and backlash from the Rainbow Warrior to reinventing ourselves as No.1 Family Estate, New Zealand’s only Méthode Traditionelle specialist.”

Fast-forward those 40 years, and No.1 Family Estate is still the only winery in New Zealand committed exclusively to producing premium Méthode Traditionelle wine, but noone is calling Daniel crazy these days.

Just like his family who still reside in Champagne, Daniel has continued the family tradition, becoming an award-winning Champenoise winemaker. His passion shines through in his work as he produces some of the highest quality Méthode Traditionelle in New Zealand.

“Looking back over four decades in Marlborough, there’s a sense of achievement seeing Daniel’s dream of Marlborough grow and become a reality,” says Adele. “The whole team at No.1 Family Estate, who are all considered family, share the same vision and dedication to quality, in particular Lee Dobson who joined us aged 17. With mentoring and education support by Daniel, Lee is now our winery manager and works alongside Daniel in the winemaking team.”

“This year celebrated 20 years since the launch of our Cuvée No.1. It is renowned throughout New Zealand and has received multiple trophies, gold medals and five star awards since its release on Bastille Day in 1999.

“Of course the accolades accumulated over the years are a testament to the quality of our Méthode Traditionelle, but it must be said, apart from those who called Daniel the ‘crazy Frenchman’, there were those who were happy to see Marlborough attracting the attention of French wine growers, many of whom gave us incredible support and lifelong friendships to this day.”

Carrying on the family traditions, Adele and Daniel’s son Rémy has joined the winemaking team and is mentored by both Daniel and Lee. He is currently finishing his bachelor’s degree in viticulture and oenology and is managing the vineyard in Marlborough, making him the 13th generation of Le Brun family vignerons.

Previously working as an actress, daughter Virginie has also joined the family business, as global brand ambassador in London from 2013 to 2017 and now as the domestic and international sales director.

“Family has always been at the core of what we do,” says Virginie. “To quote mum, ‘we are first and foremost a family business’.”

“Mum and papa have achieved remarkable success, not only as pioneers but as individuals who set benchmarks in their fields. So it is with absolute certainty I say, I could not have a better mentor than my mother, and I know that is the same for Rémy with papa.” “Our history as a family producing Méthode Traditionelle (and Champagne, in France) runs many generations deep. It reflects that we as No.1 Family Estate remain not only true to our lineage in Champagne, but also our dedication to quality control and our belief in Marlborough as the Champagne of the Antipodes.”