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Ionian www. t h e i o n i a n . c o m
FΔΩRΡΕEΑEΝ T A KE ON E
Peter Jeffrey
Andy MacKellar & Ann Rowe Tel: +30 697 693 6477 Email: info@ionianwebworks.com Web: www.ionianwebworks.com
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The Ionian
Travel, yachting and lifestyle magazine for the Ionian Islands and adjacent mainland Greece. Vol. 5, Issue 6 – Oct. 2014 Publisher and Editor Barbara Molin Advisory Board Yannis Dimopoulos Justin Smith Layout Ryan Smith Advertising advertising@theionian.com www.theionian.com
We make every effort to ensure the accuracy of each issue. However, we cannot be held liable for any errors or omissions. The contributors' opinions are their own. Printed in Greece.
Season's End
Editorial
It's nearly October as I write this and so another summer comes to an end. The last charter flights will soon take the remaining tourists back home, most of the tavernas will close their doors, the yachts will be put back on their stands in the boat yards until next spring, and the rainy season will begin. Maddie Grigg describes this well in her article, Autumn in Corfu. Also, Andy James has a suggestion for those lucky people who remain in the Ionian - hiking Pantokrator, the highest mountain on Corfu. Read about his experience in Pantokrator: Leviathan or Chameleon. And so, farewell until spring, hope to see you back in the Ionian. Happy reading... ≈≈_/)* Barbara Molin
Pantokrator Leviathan or Chameleon ANDY JAMES
Pantokrator. The word is evocative of a prehistoric leviathan rising from the deep and in some respects that is not far from the truth. This magnificent name is that borne by Corfu's highest mountain. On days when its lower flanks are shrouded in early mist one could almost believe that the dark brooding rock above was indeed something otherworldly. Something to be feared. At over 900 metres above sea level, Mount Pantokrator is the highest point of the upland massif that commands the north-eastern region of Corfu. Approaching from the south and west I could see its distinctive conical peak from many miles away. It is hardly surprising then, that the panoramic views from its summit are breathtaking in their expansiveness and clarity. To the north-west the Diapontia Islands of Othonoi, Ereikoussa and Mathraki can be seen and, quite remarkably although I didn't see it, on the clearest of days the heel of Italy's 'boot' appears as a line on the distant horizon 130 km away. To the east, seemingly within touching distance, yet around 10 km distant lies Albania; this forbidding country rendered beautiful by sunshine, and the peace on the mountain from which I saw it. Looking towards the south, having walked through a
communications installation, my pulse quickened. Beyond the island of Vido and Corfu Town, the whole of central and southern Corfu was presented, with the Paxi Islands appearing as tiny emeralds set in a sapphire sea. In reality the mountain's name owes nothing to legend or sea monsters. Pantokrator is believed to derive from the Greek panto meaning 'eternal' or (as pan) 'all', and krator meaning 'ruler', 'power', or 'strength'. While some sources offer 'eternal ruler' and other variants, the most common translation is the very apt 'allpowerful', as Pantokrator's height and commanding position has been used by people for many hundreds of years. A monastery was built here in 1347: no mean
feat given the inaccessibility of the mountain nearly 700 years ago. Even today, the approach is along narrow, tortuously hair-pinned and steep roads that challenge many drivers, let alone the hardy souls who cycle or walk. Imagine the difficulty of man- or mule-hauling building materials through the steep wooded valleys and up the rocky flanks that we consider picturesque, but which in the 14th century would have been tough to cross. The Angevin Monastery stood for nearly 200 years prior to its destruction early in the 16th century. It was replaced in the late 17th century by the Ipsilos Monastery which remains atop the very summit of Pantokrator to this day, although the present facade is less than 200 years old. New forms of 'religion' have found their place on Corfu's roof in recent years: popular tourism and communications. While the souvenir shop and cafĂŠ have at least been built with some sympathy for the monastery, the same cannot be said for the mass of communications antennas and attendant generators and administration huts nearby that impede the southern aspect. Indeed I heard a fellow visitor comment: "huh Mount Pantokrator should be re-named Mount Portakabin." While the dozen or so huts and their aerials are a hundred metres or more from the monastery, the biggest eyesore of all is the massive redand white-painted steel pylon planted within the courtyard, right in front of the monastery. Despite distractions, the Ipsilos Monastery is a gem. Inside I saw paintings and other icons of great richness and quality. Together with the panoramic views these made the effort of reaching the summit more than worthwhile. I found the beauty and tranquility of the monastery's interior made me forget the more worldly constructions outside. The words "Nearer, My God, to Thee" were never more true. Perhaps, after all, this magnificent mountain top is big enough for pilgrims, tourists and communications engineers alike. Each, in their own way, is an important element of modern Ionian life. While the pylon is a blot, the monastery retains its power to move the soul. Pantokrator, the all-powerful chameleon, should be on every visitor to Corfu's must-see list.
Autumn in Corfu
MADDIE GRIGG In October, the island of Corfu takes on a different feel. There are only a few holiday makers to be found, enjoying the last days of sunshine under clear blue skies, as the villagers begin to work on clearing their ground for the olive harvest. Men and women who have spent a long summer working in hotels and tavernas, beach bars and souvenir shops, return to a more sedate pace of life. In November they will be able to light bonfires – not allowed all through the spring and summer months for fear the flames will take hold and spark a bigger, more dangerous blaze. During the hot months we see fire engines at strategic spots on the island, just waiting for the call. These firemen, in my opinion, are all heroes. When fire takes hold in the Greek countryside, it really rages. It’s in October when we like to start rediscovering the island again, when the crowds have turned their back and headed for home. On a trip down south of the island – overlooked by the guide books but a real treasure chest if you follow the clues – there is a smell of autumn in the air, although the days are warm and, for us, hot enough to swim. Lefkimmi, Corfu’s second town, dozes. And down by the river, the mullet swishes along the murky water in front of closed-up tavernas. An old widow in black, with a scarf on her head for protection from the sun, can barely walk in her garden when standing. But, on her hands and knees with a hoe, she makes good progress in cleaning the soil. Further down the road, young men, sitting in leather and raffia chairs, drink iced coffee in
an incongruous cafe bar, looking out across an odd architectural mix. A police 4 x 4 cruises up and down, up the street and over the bridge and back again, looking for Lefkimmi Vice. There is none, now the young Brits have deserted Kavos, that fleshpot fake, that sin city strip a few kilometres away. In the autumn and winter, Kavos is like a deserted outpost in the Wild West, where the gold rush is over. Everything is closed. We wander through its streets and then take the road to Petriti and along to Boukari, a pretty place to stop and take in the beautiful seafront ambience at one of the tavernas. The coastal road along here is enchanting, whatever time of year. And then it’s back up to Benitses, which has changed so much in recent years (for the better) and over the Kaiser’s Bridge, along the winding road to Corfu Town. Here, we’ll park near the Liston and stroll in front of its promenade of arches and enjoy a coffee while we watch the world go by before heading up north and back to our home. Corfu is lovely all year round but there is something very special about the Ionian out of season.
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