The Jasper Local January 15, 2018 by The Jasper Local

a lt e r n at i v e +

LOCAL + independent

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monday, january 15, 2018 // ISSUE 113

BRRRRING IT! // WHISTLER’S JENNIFER BROPHY WAS STILL SMILING ON HER LAST LAP DURING THE FROSTY’S FAT BIKE RACE AT THE FAIRMONT JASPER PARK LODGE DECEMBER 11. IN -23 DEGREE WEATHER, THE FROSTY’S SERIES KICKED OFF JASPER IN JANUARY. // BOB COVEY

MP Jim Eglinski won't seek re-election Yellowhead’s Conservative Member of Parliament, Jim Eglinski, is hanging up his political sash. On January 9 he announced he won’t seek re-election when federal parliament is dissolved.

Eglinski said he relied on veteran hill staff—particularly his executive assistant, Jeannette Gasparini—to get him up to speed on parliamentary procedures.

“I had a long talk with my wife,” said Eglinski, whose riding office is in Edson. “I want to spend more time with my family.”

One thing he’s learned after 52 years in municipal and federal politics is to check your assumptions at the door.

Eglinski’s entry into federal politics was abrupt. The 69-year-old former RCMP member and Mayor of Fort St. John, B.C. was elected to represent Yellowhead in a 2014 by-election. He was re-elected in 2015. “When I got elected they said ‘here’s your office, here’s your budget, open your office, get going,” he said. “At least in an election year you get a couple of study sessions.”

“I had to learn fast: How do I present? How do I speak on a bill?” he recalled.

“You may think your philosophy is right but I’ve learned to make decisions only after you’ve heard from people. You can’t be hard-nosed in this line of work.” Eglinski is well-known for his commitment to visiting each community in his riding as much as possible. He will be in Jasper next week to visit with local schools. bob covey // bob@thejasperlocal.com

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editorial //

Local Vocal There’s a sign on the Maligne Lake Road that, if I think about it for too long, starts to tick me off. You know the one: it’s an old Parks Canada sign, brown and yellow, with a single image of of a hiker on it. The hiker has a cute little rectangle backpack, a walking stick and is taking a purposeful stride. Hike here, the sign suggests. The reason the sign irks me is because it’s adjacent to the Signal Mountain parking lot at the north end of the Skyline Trail. Unless you are starting or finishing your Skyline adventure, there is no good reason to hike nine kilometres on that hateful fire road while being hemmed in by willows for the grand reward of zero views. Yet every day in the summer, I’m sure, visitors who don’t know any better see that cute little hiker beckoning them, pull over, unload the kids and proceed to wonder why the heck anyone would want to backpack in Jasper National Park. You see, in a place where people don’t always know how to best spend their hard-earned free time, signs are important. By the same token, park literature which describes park activities and assets are also important to the visitor experience. They’re important for the information they contain, and also for the information they omit. Skiing and the Maligne Valley go hand in hand. Not downhill skiing, but the old-fashioned kind: cross country. After all, this is where, in the 1920s, Jasper’s backcountry ski culture was born. Delayed access measures in 2014 closed most of the winter skiing there, but even without the west side of the valley in play there is still much to celebrate. On the right day, Trapper Creek, the Jacques Lake trail and the Moose Lake loop have all the ingredients to transform a casual visitor into a lifetime park ambassador. Yet any signs or indications that the Maligne Valley is an incredible cross country skiing destination which is rich in history are surprisingly few and far between. It might seem like small potatoes to get worked up over the semantics of park promotions, but Jasper skiers have taken their lumps in the Maligne Valley. To many, it’s still a very sensitive subject. Those folks agreed that efforts to save a species at risk were important, and gave up a lot by respecting conservation measures in places they loved to ski. For those putting together next year’s Winter Activity Guide, it might be worth showing that same respect for the places in the Maligne Valley to which skiers are now relegated. bob covey // bob@thejasperlocal.com

Put a hat on: Letter to my younger self It’s minus a million with a savage wind

But you won’t wear boots because they don’t look cool

So you whine and moan until mom gives you a ride Yet when you pass your friends you duck and hide When you go out at night I can’t really relax Knowing the only thing saving you is loitering at Mac’s

Mom bought you a toque like the older kids wear But you won’t put it on cuz it’ll wreck your hair You left your gloves at your buddy’s (you think) last night But you can’t go check cuz you two are in a fight?

Do the girls in your grade really think it’s alright That your nose and ears have severe frostbite? I know being a kid can be kind of confusing But your lack of sense is no longer amusing - Bob Covey

And the sun won’t be up for 20 mins There’s a mile and a half between you and the school

The Jasper Local //

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// Local competition

monday, january 15, 2018 // issue 113// the jasper local// page A3

PROFESSIONAL SKI MOUNTAINEERS WILL PUT ON A CARDIO CLINC MARCH 17 WHEN SKI-MO CANADA COMES TO MARMOT BASIN. //

Marmot to host Ski Mountaineering event Ski Mountaineering is coming to Marmot Basin. On March 17, Marmot Basin will host its inaugural SkiMo competition as more than 50 athletes will descend on Jasper to subsequently ascend and descend approximately 1,800 metres on the ski hill before crossing the finish line.

SkiMo has its roots in ski touring, of course, but the race format means there are certain standards to which each event must adhere. For example, each race covers 1,800 metres vertical (climbing and descending). Up to 10 per cent of a course can be on foot (skis on pack).

While the course has not yet been made official (pending the green light from SkiMo, as it’s known colloquially, is alpine Marmot’s operations and avalanche touring with a stopwatch. Competitors use safety teams), preliminary designs have skins on their skis to climb, then rip them competitors starting near the Fourth off to descend, then do it all over again until Parking Lot, climbing No Show and they reach the finish. A skis-on-the-pack Porteous Way before making the first “bootpack” is also part of the race course. descent into the recently-opened Tres Alex Stieda, a former pro cyclist who will Hombres. take part in the event’s “Masters” category, After climbing out of Tres, it’s proposed said the fitness of the athletes involved is that they’ll ski to Knob Hill, ascend Suzie’s something to behold. and descend Peak Run to mid-mountain. “It is unreal how fit they are,” he said. From there, the unofficial course has skiers “And their skill level is unbelievable too. ascending Chalet Slope to the Eagle Ridge Watching how fast they do their transitions return, from where they’ll boot pack to to how fast they ski downhill after putting Cornice. in maximum effort on the climb is After they ski Cornice, another climb up amazing.” Chalet Slope from mid-mountain will take SkiMo—or randonnée, as it’s known in athletes to the entry to Eagle’s East, from Europe—is a relatively unknown sport in where it is proposed they’ll ski down to the Canada, but Stieda and his colleagues at Lower (Caribou) Chalet finish. Ski Mountaineering Competition Canada Recreational ski tourers are encouraged are working to change that. SkiMo has huge to register for the Heavy Metal category; appeal as a spectator sport, Stieda said, those competitors will climb and descend because fans can get so close to the action. approximately two thirds of the distance “Because the course is lift accessed, you can and elevation of that of the elite class. really set up to enjoy it,” he said. “In Europe Check www.skimocanada.org for more people are out there with cow bells and information. noise makers, encouraging the athletes.” bob covey // bob@thejasperlocal.com

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Local recreation//

EVELYN PASS // N. GABOURY

Winter user questions Parks' ski promotion In 2013, Loni Klettl, along with a handful of Jasper winter enthusiasts, business owners, skiers and conservationalists penned a letter to Parks Canada’s then-CEO, Alan Latourelle. In it, they decried Parks Canada’s plans to close off large sections of Jasper National Park to skiing in the name of caribou conservation. “We know that the closure of these areas is being undertaken only because it is imperative that Parks Canada be seen to be doing something and not because there is a committed belief that the closures will result in the stabilization of the herd,” the letter said. In hindsight, the letter was fairly presumptuous: the writers were projecting certainty that Jasper’s caribou herds were doomed no matter what. There was also a rather desperate tone. “It’s not just wolves who prey on caribou,” it pleaded. “Calves fall prey to bears, wolverine and sometimes even eagles.” But five years on, from a skiers’ point of view at least, it seems that sense of desperation was justified. Parks Canada did enact sweeping caribou closures across Jasper National Park. Following the Tonquin Valley/Portal Creek closures in 2009, delayed backcountry access was implemented in the Whistlers Creek area and the North and South Boundaries in 2013. Then, in late December 2014, came the stump that broke the skier’s binding, so to speak: the Maligne Valley, with its generous snowpack, safe, sub-alpine access and plentiful, panoramic views, was suddenly off-limits to humans. Nearly 100 years of ski history had come to a halt—from November to March, anyway. For those whose hearts sang when

they thought of traversing the heady horizons of the Bald Hills, or their first reconnaissance over Evelyn Pass, or zipping down crazily on Jeffrey’s Creek, desperation had turned into devastation. “I feel shackled,” Klettl wrote not long after the “Christmas closures” came down. “This park is trying to harness our wild spirit of exploration.” To the credit of park managers of the day, the shutdowns did not come without efforts to find other skiable alpine areas not affected by conservation measures. In the wake of the closures, there was also considerable resources put into new ski offers in the valley bottom. Decoigne, a former warden station on the park’s west boundary, for example, was propped up as a cross country option. Grooming followed. Marmot Meadows at Whistlers Campground was rebranded as a winter “hub”—think skating, fire pits and skiing—and visitor experience personnel were consulting with local experts as to the viability of Pyramid Mountain and slopes above the Miette Hotsprings. As well, JNP’s then-Superintendent, Greg Fenton, accepted a proposal by two local skiers to turn a decrepit park asset into a ski cabin in the Miette Pass area. For a while, skiers held out hope that even without the Maligne Valley, skiing would still remain a priority for park managers. Three years later, Decoigne is but a numb memory of frozen feet; an ambitious “expert” cross-country track in the sensitive aspen forest behind Marmot Meadows has been abandoned; and anyone still curious about Pyramid Mountain ... well, they can go for it, if they have the legs and the lungs. As for the cabin proposal, as Klettl says, that document “fell into the meltwaters of the Miette.”

Klettl, Jasper’s loudest and proudest ski promotor, defender and writer, says that since the caribou closures and Parks Canada’s subsequent efforts at placating the winter user, alpine skiing and touring seems to have fallen off Jasper’s radar significantly. To emphasize her point, she notes that nowhere in the Maligne Lake section of JNP’s latest Winter Adventure Guide is the word “ski” to be found. For their part, Parks Canada says its activity guides are designed to capture the imagination and spirit of a broad audience of current and potential visitors and that they are not meant to list every activity that can be practiced in the park. “Skiing is possible in the Maligne Valley and skiers looking to access this more challenging ski experiences are welcome to visit the Visitor Information Centre or consult a variety of trail guide books written by experienced users,” communication staff said in an email. Klettl knows this, of course, but wishes that Parks Canada would show some enthusiasm for the gains that she and other users made when places like Trapper Creek and Moose Lake were designated as ski destinations in the Maligne Lake area. Achieving those designations was a big deal for winter users when the closure boundaries were being drawn. “That was a real score,” she said. Instead, skiing in that area isn’t talked about— at least that she can see. Certainly the Winter Guide’s omission of the sport in the very place where Jasper’s powder pioneers first laid tracks indicates the park’s aloofness to the activity, she says. “I think it’s intentional,” Klettl said. “For some reason they’ve chosen other things for people to come here to do.” bob covey // bob@thejasperlocal.com

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Local food//

Jasper and food tourism the perfect pairing Estelle Blanchette wants the world to eat in Jasper. For the last few years, as part of her overseas marketing work with Tourism Jasper, Estelle Blanchette would often hear about up-andcoming trends in tourism. Like wine, some of these were half corked (segway tours, anyone?), while others seemed to have a satisfying, lingering finish.

sumptuous sweets. If her experience tapping into global tourism markets has taught her anything, it’s that visitors are hungry for this type of offer.

community means there’s more than one way to serve a poutine, as Blanchette, a Quebec expat, knows intimately.

“The UK is obsessed with food,” she said. “So is Australia. Culinary tourism

By all accounts, guided culinary tours is one “What’s fun about this such concept that has is that you have no idea been heating up in the what we’re going to eat.” travel world. So when Blanchette was finally introduced to culinary in Jasper is tourism by way of a funky food adventure in completely Gastown, in downtown Vancouver, she said a untapped.” light bulb went on in her brain. Notwithstanding “It hit me. I thought ‘Jasper needs this,’” she dietary issues, said. DIBS! BLANCHETTE IS CLAIMING YOUR YAM FRIES, AND A NEW CULINARY TOURISM BUSINESS. // BC Jasper Food A few dozen conversations with local chefs Tours’ clients will and restauranteurs later, and Blanchette has be encouraged the components of what she hopes will be a “I’m a bit of an expert,” she laughed. to “trust the chef,” meaning they won’t know winning recipe for a new business. Jasper the menu beforehand. That’s all part of the Jasper Food Tours will lean heavily on Jasper’s Food Tours will pair great dishes with local adventure, Blanchette says. diversity. With more than 60 kitchens in town mountain culture. As an aperitif, Blanchette “What’s fun about this is that you have no idea employing chefs, cooks and serving staff from will fill guests in on Jasper’s delicious all over the world, Blanchette is excited to what we’re going to eat,” she said. historical gossip, of which there is plenty to expand people’s view on what Rockies dining And even if diners do know the basic menu, dish, she assures you. can be. “It’ll be as much of a story telling tour as a food they still might not have any idea what’s “We’ve got eclectic, unique and globallyin store. Jasper Food Tours’ Le Poutine tour,” Blanchette said. inspired food because we have people who Tour will give Blanchette an opportunity to By guiding up to 12 guests on a walking have come here to work from all over the introduce this Quebecois speciality to folks tour around Jasper’s downtown, Blanchette world,” she said. “We just have to market it.” who may have never experienced how fries, plans to make four foodie stops where guests cheese curds and gravy can be a peak dining Bon appetite. will experience classic cocktails, eclectic experience. Jasper’s creative Francophone bob covey // bob@thejasperlocal.com appetizers, palate-pleasing proteins and

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FEATURE // STORY DAVID HARRAP // BANNER PHOTO BY TOMAS KULU

Forthco

Twice In SOMETIMES MAGIC HAPPENS ON SPECIAL NIGHTS. March 31, 1999. That was the night they came, invading our dreams with hints of nightmare. I woke with a start. “Did you hear that?” I shook my son awake. I didn’t know how long we had slept but the inside of the tent was covered with frost from our breathing. “Wolves. You were right!” I whispered to Liam who was now wide awake and propped up on his elbows, half out of his sleeping bag, transfixed as I was by the sound outside the tent. “It was their tracks.” Earlier in the day we had seen fresh tracks down by the creek. Although I had disagreed Liam had insisted they were wolf tracks. We listened in silence, afraid that any noise we made would cause the howling to cease. We didn’t want it to end, for we didn’t want it to be our imagination. The howling was more than just a beautiful sound, it was the voice of the wilderness night. But it was more than a voice even, it was a sensation, an electric feeling jarring the soul to its very core. Howling big and wild as the mountains themselves. Listening. Shivering with the thrill of it all. I told Liam I was going outside to howl. Howl and they howl back in turn. You can do that with wolves, as if you are speaking with them, feeling their words, understanding their song, learning the teachings of Wolf for us to find our way: for it was the Ojibwe belief that Maengun would show the dead the way to heaven. Yes, the howling of wolves is more than just a pretty sound. It had snowed a little since we went to bed, and as I crawled out snow fell off the tent and down my neck. Our log bench by the fire pit had a dusting of fresh snow, the embers of our fire still glowed red, and the discarded bones from the sizzling pork chops we had gorged on for supper had turned to ash. But the weather had cleared and I could see the moon wandering through the passing clouds: a full moon, the second of the month, the second blue moon of the year. Why, twice in a blue moon—of course! The fleeting blue moonlight, the long

shadows in the trees, the dusting of fresh snow, it was all so perfect. This was the night

wolves would come. I howled and a wolf howled back; I howled again, and again a wolf answered. I went back in the tent and we held hands listening as the howling came through the walls with the moonlight. Romulus and Remus wide awake with the wolves of Pork Chop Hill. At first the howling was a chorus of dissonant voices, but as we listened it changed to a beautiful cantata thundering and filling the air. The music swelled and echoed, haunting the night, becoming the lament for the dying wilderness, a lament

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UJA

oming Attraction:

n A Blue Moon for the blood and madness of earth itself. For even as we listened cruise missiles were slamming in thunder and flame into yet one more country, attempting to dislodge yet one more crazy dictator. “How many do you think?” I whispered.

But there was only the shadows in the trees and the sparkle of snow where the blue moonlight fell. Back in the tent we lay listening to the howling: building and building, reaching crescendo then stopping as the sounds died away into the stillness. There was now a special kind of silence, a deepening silence that breeds guilt in those who have heard. Only Liam and I had heard, yet the voices had gone out far beyond our little camp, high in the mountains. It was a requiem for the great northlands, a cry of pain, tears shed for earth itself. The song of wolves. Not just a pleasant sound to send shivers to those listening, as if it were some musical tape, but a song for the teaching. Just a few hours before we had thrust boastful vaunts to the wind, declaring ourselves princes of Windy Wildlands, kings of Pork Chop Hill. But as we slept with the howling of wolves puncturing our dreams it wasn’t that way at all. For unlike wolves, kings rule neither sky nor mountain. David harrap // info@thejasperlocal.com

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Liam thought six, seven at the very least, but it was hard to tell. For howls were coming from above us as well as down by the creek. The mournful sound of the wolves rising and dying, splitting and deepening the frozen silence of the mountains. I went outside again in the hope of seeing the animals: the burning yellow eyes as they came slinking and snarling along the ridge of Pork Chop Hill, hackles bristling against the moon. Wolves howling up a chorus as if they were saying grace before dinner. I heard and saw it all in an instant of wild imaginings.

A BLUE MOON IS THE NAME GIVEN TO THE SECOND FULL MOON IN A CALENDAR MONTH. BLUE MOONS OCCUR ON AVERAGE ABOUT EVERY COUPLE OF YEARS. THE RARE EVENT—TWICE IN A BLUE MOON— IS WHEN THERE ARE TWO BLUE MOONS IN THE SAME YEAR. THIS WILL HAPPEN IN 2018 (JANUARY AND MARCH), 2037, AND 2094. LAST CENTURY TWO BLUE MOONS THE SAME YEAR OCCURRED IN 1915, 1961, AND 1999. Jasper’s David Harrap is the author of The Littlest Hiker in the Canadian Rockies. If he’s not howling at wolves in the wilderness, you may be able to find him picking up pork chops from the local grocery store.

The program is volunteerbased, with local groups, organizations and businesses preparing the food, setting up the room, serving and cleaning up each week. EVERYONE IS WELCOME!

with support from

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Local community //

Annual Filipino party showcases star talent, strong community ties The end of the old year and the beginning of the new is a time when families, friends and neighbours come together and reaffirm the bonds of community that make small towns like ours such special places to live.

tables as adults feasted on a dizzying array of Filipino delicacies. The atmosphere was one of pure joy and good will.

The jovial tone was maintained with expert flair by the evening’s MC, Michael Ross. With In a sense, the health of a his quick wit and community is reflected in the energetic personality, ways its members come together Ross was consistently to celebrate the significant hilarious. His Englishmilestones that mark the passing language jokes had the audience in stitches, but “Over the last several when he switched decades, Jasper’s Filipino to Tagalog population has come (the official to form a pillar of our language of the community.“ Philippines) people were nearly falling off of the seasons. To that extent, the their chairs! December 22 Filipino Christmas If the MC’s ad libs Party was as strong a sign of weren’t enough, the community vitality as you could effervescent energy of hope to see. children ensured that For more than six hours that unalloyed happiness evening, the Jasper Activity remained the event’s // JASPER’S FILIPINO COMMUNITY CELEBRATED THE SECOND ANNUAL PASKO SA PARTY DECEMBER 22. INCREDIBLE FOOD AND A REMARKABLY TALENTED LINE UP OF ENTERTAINERS HIGHLIGHTED THE NIGHT. // Centre’s Multipurpose Room central theme. The echoed with laughter and with old Kris Kringle. Their ranging in age from ‘early teens’ kids danced, played good cheer. Children in their excitement was infectious, to ‘it’s impolite to ask’ showed off games and lined up to review Christmas best darted between reminding us all what makes the their steps and their community their naughty-to-nice quotient holiday season so special. spirit. By the end, everyone (including your correspondent) But what really set this party was on their feet and dusting off apart—besides, of course, the “The Macarena.” incredible spread of food— was the lineup of talented entertainers that graced the Activity Centre stage. It has been observed that, for a town of its size, Jasper is home to a disproportionately large number of artistically talented people. The dance and musical performances on the evening of December 22 suggested that this claim would still hold true even if we only included performers of Filipino heritage! Ballad singers, rock musicians, hip-hop dancers and K-Pop choreographers kept the crowd entertained for several hours. The level of commitment required to pull off such a show was an incredible testament to the sense of community animating the party. No less than seven dance troupes

Over the last several decades, Jasper’s Filipino population has come to form a pillar of our community. Whether Temporary Foreign Workers, Permanent Residents, naturalized citizens or Canadians born to Filipino parents, Filipino families have made major contributions to Jasper’s social, cultural and economic vitality. The second annual Filipino Christmas Party is just one such contribution and a crystal-clear example of how the integration of newcomers is a process through which communities grow into something more than what they were before. If you can, I highly recommend getting your name on the guest list for next year’s party! Doug Olthof // doug@thejasperlocal.com

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local hockey //

Are the JPL Hawks the Vegas Golden Knights of the JHL? THE JASPER HOCKEY LEAGUE IS HALF WAY THROUGH THE 2017/18 SEASON AND MOST OBSERVERS JUST HAVE ONE QUESTION: WHO THE HECK ARE THESE HAWKS?

having a post-game chat with hawks nation

Bird in a cage: Hawks d-man Collin Booth uses his large wing span to get to loose pucks //bc

JHL fans who don’t actually play in the league (there are a couple) will have noticed a few things about this season: First of all, there seems to be a lot more parody between teams. While the current standings are admittedly lopsided, most would agree that the games are generally more competitive,

more balanced and altogether more interesting than in years previous. The league’s top administrator, Commissioner Troy Mills, who spends much of his day thinking about these types of things, believes that a few key offseason moves have tipped the balance away from the twoteam domination the JHL has (boringly) played host to in the past. By the way he holds his stick you’d think this Hawk would have a This brings us to the second proclivity for butt-ending opponents. Turns out he’s pretty nice. point about this season: CerUnlike players on most JHL teams, who, if tainly one of the most disrupting acquisithey’re lucky, recruit a handful of half-intertions, in terms of making one team stronger, ested girlfriends to the final playoff game of has been the Hawks’ pickup of goaltender the year (you heard it here first: Super SunJake Melanson. Melanson is big, athletic day is March 18), the Hawks roll with a posse and, for an 18-year-old, fairly experienced of puckheads who will come to the arena at between 9:45 p.m. on a Wednesday. Sure it helps that the pipes. karaoke falls on the same night but regardBut a solid less: these Hawks have chicks. netminder Part of what those fans most certainly are isn’t the there to see was on full display when the only reaHawks surprised the Beavers on January 10 son the in an 8-5 dustup: part-way through the first Hawks frame, centreman Tanner McBurney’s helmet look like flung off during play to reveal his long, illusthe Vegas trious hair. Dude’s got killer flow. Of course, Golden when his lid was jarred loose for a second Knights of time on the very next shift there was some the JHL. suspicion that he was doing it on purpose, Like the but it should be noted that not one fan comGolden plained. Knights, While the Hawks have been happy to have they’re McBurney and his sweet lettuce back, they’ve made up of also benefited from the strong play of dean Ontarfender Tyler Milanovik. Milanovik’s ability to io-centric move north in a hurry compliments the long roster reach of fellow d-man, the caged-wonder, unknown Collin Booth. Booth, who needs to keep his to (and thereby underrated by) the majority grill in one piece so he can sell expensive of the league; they combine speed and slick bottles of wine in the evenings, is the epitpassing to confound slower, one-dimensional ome of the Hawks themselves: he’s young, teams; and they have the most fired-up fanplays hard and when he shakes his oppobase in the JHL. In fact, their fan turnout nents’ hands in the post-game line-up, they might be the most impressive part of the have no idea who just beat them. Hawks’ game. bob covey // bob@thejasperlocal.com

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