Travel

Travel Lisbon – Ritz Four Seasons

BY CARON BLUSTONES

With travel now back in full flow, at least for those who are vaccinated, I felt obliged to chase the sun over October half term. Where better to go than Portugal? Lisbon to be precise. The second-oldest capital in Europe, where a fascinating history can be found in every tile and cobblestone. This trip was to be our second, having been five years previously, to the city that has so many facets, that I was already planning the third visit, before even having left. Lisbon has so much to give- five days just wasn’t enough. Day trips to the surrounding areas that include Sinatra and it’s UNESCO World Heritage castle and palaces and the lively, coastal resort of Cascais with it’s stunning, wild beaches are so easily accessible and add to the experience of this wonderful destination.

Let’s start with logistics. Lisbon is really easily accessible. A two-hour flight, then only fifteen minutes to the centre from the airport. We flew from Luton, a quick jaunt up the M1 from our base in North London. Valet parking was booked cheaply through Holidayextras (www.holidayextras.com/) - in the multi-storey car-park - a minute from the terminal and we were off! Luton is a great little airport for quick trips. Often less queues, plenty of facilities. We treated ourselves to the lounge, this trip. No. 1 Lounges has a really lovely space in the centre of the terminal where we sat in peace and enjoyed a tasty breakfast before boarding our early flight. (https://no1lounges.com/). This meant that we could hit the ground running once our luggage had been dropped off.

I also pre-booked a luxury transfer with Blacklane to meet us on arrival in Lisbon. Taxis are extremely cheap in the city - no need for Uber - just hail one. However, as a family of four with three suitcases, it made much more sense to opt for comfort, luxury and flexibility. Ours came in the form of a black, seven-seater Mercedes minivan. You book through the app and can change a booking up to an hour beforehand. The prices are reasonable, the drivers are reliable and professional and you can count on them being there waiting for you, given the one hour of complimentary waiting time. (www. blacklane.com/en/)

Our base for five exceptional days was The Four Seasons Hotel Ritz. Having stayed before, it was a no-brainer. Perfectly positioned above the city centre, atop one of Lisbon’s seven hills with views onto Eduardo VII park, boasting a brand new outdoor pool- an oasis in the city - which was added this year, it’s the perfect, family choice. Built in 1959 by the dictator Salazar, to show off luxury in Lisbon, the hotel exceeds expectations. The main Aveninda de Liberdade with its ornate

Art Deco Bedroom

pavements and glossy designer boutiques is within easy walking distance and the main museums and sights simply a short taxi ride away.

The Four Seasons Ritz is everything that you would expect it to be. Impeccable in every way. From the moment you walk through the doors, you are greeted with a feeling of opulence; marble floors, high ceilings and a wonderful mix of art-deco and Louis XVI style in classic, muted colours. Local contemporary artwork - tapestries, paintings and sculptures, adorn the common spaces, making up one of the largest and most important privately-owned collections in the country. Comfy sofas, spectacular flower arrangements and a clubby bar offer an all-encompassing experience. The back of the hotel boasts huge terraces looking out towards the park. Perfect for enjoying the warm, Autumn sunshine.

An art-deco theme runs through the hotel to the beautifully-appointed guest rooms, most of which have generous balconies from which the views, especially the sunrise and sunset over Lisbon, are nothing less than spectacular. Our interconnecting park view rooms were the epitome of stylish, serene luxury. Deep, pile carpet in an eye-catching geometric 50’s pattern, velvets and teals, and electric curtains. Of course, there are all the mod cons too - large flat screen TV’s, charging points by the beds and Nespresso machine, Bulgari toiletries replenished daily in the huge, cream marble and chrome bathrooms, complete with oversized bathtubs and walk-in showers. Arriving back after long days of sightseeing was a pure joy. These rooms are so much more than functional. They feel like the best a home could be. Most nights we settled in watching movies and let dinner come to us! Kosher food is available on request.

The weather in October this year hit 26 degrees most days with clear blue skies abound. Escaping the dreary weather in London and sitting by the stunning, new outdoor, palm tree-flanked pool, it felt hard to leave the hotel. Facilities here are second to none. There’s a modern, indoor pool attached to the spa, floor to ceiling windows looking out to the park beyond, the SPA itself, where you can sauna, steam or ice and on the rooftop you will find a fitness centre to rival the best in class. The cherry on the cake comes in the form of an outdoor running track with a view and an outdoor gym. Nothing has been forgotten. The most avid sports person can train hard here, in luxury. From one on one pilates, yoga or boxing sessions to state of the art equipment set across a series of modern, glass-walled, gym studios, this is state of the art.

The day that we arrived, frazzled from a heavy work week - not that I needed an excuse(!), I booked myself in for the ESPA Holistic Total Body Care treatment. Leaving the kids behind with their Daddy, I rushed out of the room in my fluffy bathrobe as fast as I could! 80 minutes of pure bliss; cleansed, polished, showered and massaged with the ESPA signature oils, off I drifted into a state of utopia. Some spa treatments simply pay lip service to fancy descriptions but this one delivered in spades and I’m no easy customer.

Rejuvenated and ready to go, we hit Lisbon and it’s many sights. The hotel concierge provided us with an electronic guide via email and off we went. First stop, Bairro Alto, the artist’s quarter dating back to the 1500’s. Here you will find its hilly streets, bohemian boutiques and the Bica funicular, the oldest in Lisbon. Be prepared to walk but for your efforts you will be rewarded with vivid street art and majestic views to the river.

The centre of Lisbon is divided into several neighbourhoods. Each with its own distinct essence. Baixa is the most central. Completely rebuilt after an earthquake in the eighteenth century, it is packed with unusual and unique stores, hat shops and shoe shops, haberdashery stores that have a feeling of yesteryear and the iconic Marquis of Pombal Square. Between Bairro

New Outdoor Pool - An Oasis in the City

Alto and Baixa lies Chiado. The Montmartre of Lisbon. Full of cafes, theatres and museums.

On the recommendation of the concierge we took a tuk tuk tour. These have become extremely popular in Lisbon, all are safe with seatbelts and obligatory licensing, but pick wisely because some tour guides are better than others. By chance we came across Ella. (www.instagram.com/ellatrip_portugal) Having lived in Dublin, her English was perfect and her knowledge of the city, it’s history and monuments coupled with a true passion for the job made her one-hour tour the highlight of our trip. She whisked us up to the enchanting Alfama; the city’s medieval district, once inhabited by the Romans, with its narrow streets and village-like charm to the castle, Sé Cathedral and beyond, up to the Portas do Sol viewpoint. Breathtaking views of terracotta roofs and the sparkling river beyond.

Another day we headed to Belem, directly on the waterfront. Here you’ll find some of Lisbon’s most important museums and galleries. Wide-open boulevards sit beside the Tagus river. Not only is Belem the site of maritime legends but also an important part of Lisbon’s modern cultural offering. Explore the Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology and the Cultural Centre of Belem, then head to the Mosteiro dos Geronimos where Vasco da Gama is buried. It’s beauty dates back to 1501, when it took almost a century to complete.

For the children and the adults alike, we also spent one incredible afternoon at the Oceanario, totally immersed in it’s all encompassing underwater world. It’s the second largest aquarium in Europe, set over two floors; everything rotates around one vast, central aquarium. From the upper floor, view the sea creatures that live closer to the surface, then head down to the depths to see the deep sea creatures. It houses over 450 species, including sharks, stingrays, manta rays and even glowing jellyfish. With an emphasis on education and sustainability, it’s an unmissable experience and well worth the ten-minute taxi ride from the city centre.

We also spent one morning out of the city completely, as well as out of my comfort-zone and took the children to the treetop adventure at Adventure Park. (www.//adventurepark.pt/en) Completing the circuit, under the cool canopy of the forest was an exhilarating experience. Once I had been coaxed off the first platform - my head for heights is terrible - it was full steam ahead, the children, off in front without a care in the world. I certainly felt the adrenaline rush and a huge sense of accomplishment as I whizzed down the zip-line at the end. The experience is impeccably run and a qualified team-member is with you every step of the way. Harnessed up, you feel very safe indeed and there are three circuits of varying difficulty, so something for everyone. Back with our feet upon the ground, they called us a taxi that arrived within minutes and we were back in Lisbon proper, fifteen minutes later. Ready to hit some more sights.

Lisbon is a true treasure trove with an abundance to offer every taste and generation. Five days is really not enough time to truly appreciate it. One thing that you can be sure of is that the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz is the perfect base from which to start.

https://www.fourseasons.com/lisbon/

Running Track with a View