Travel

Grand Hotel Tremezzo - Lake Como The Grande Dame of the Lake

BY CARON BLUESTONE

Unbelievably, this visit was to be my first. Four days of blissful exploration, pampering, gorgeous views and old school luxury in an idyllic setting. I’ve been to Italy many, many times. Countless summers in Forte Dei Marmi, Alassio and Santa Margarita. Driving from the U.K. with my parents, stopping in France, then to Switzerland and St Moritz for walking in the mountains before descending into Italy for the beach. Family memories that I treasure.

This trip, although somewhat romantic - you can’t help but feel romantic with this backdrop, was however a family trip. Flying into Milan and renting a car was a breeze. Thirty minutes to Luton Airport, where parking is quick and easy, also, it’s mere minutes away from the terminal. No queues and drive-through, pre-departure Covid-19 testing in the car park next door. At the time we travelled, this was needed for entry into Italy, as it is at time of writing. Results were emailed to us, dropping into my inbox before we’d arrived at check-in. The process was stress-free, both upon departure and more so upon arrival, with luggage out quickly and no waiting at passport control. The advantages of smaller airports.

Driving from Milan to lake Como took just eighty minutes. Our transfer and hire car pickup was extremely quick and easy, which makes a weekend in Lake Como a very attractive prospect. Motorway north from Milan, hit Como centre and the rest of the drive meanders through the picturesque, small villages and very narrow streets around the lake. Streets that twist and turn with views that attract a fair few bikers!

We were staying at the grande dame of the lake. An iconic, art nouveau masterpiece, surrounded by some of the most exquisite gardens imaginable. The Grand Hotel Tremezzo. Taking pride of place in Tremezzo, on the western shore of lake Como, with views across the water to the splendid village of Bellagio. Then the Grigne mountains beyond and towards Switzerland in the north and St Moritz again in the central eastern Alps.

This being my first time in lake Como, I was especially excited. Expectations were high, I’d heard only good things. As the hotel comes into view, I knew that I’d chosen well. With the beach club sitting directly on the lake, it’s one-of-a-kind, floating pool, deck chairs and cabanas reminiscent of a bygone era, sit on the beach and surround the chic Giacomo al Lago restaurant. The hotel’s unmissable, signature bright orange awnings that dress the art nouveau facade let you know that you have reached your destination. Built into the hill directly above the lake, it is the most magnificent palace imaginable. We pull into the circular gravel driveway that is flanked with palm trees, where the valets are eagerly waiting to relieve us of our car and to instantly magic away our luggage. We are invited to walk up the grand steps, to a magnificent wood-panelled, glass lift which transports guests to the main lobby of the hotel and into a world of full-on glamour. Walk out of the doors and you have truly arrived. There’s no doubt that this is a palace.

Built in 1910 for the social elite to enjoy, nothing has been spared. The scale and opulence is what strikes you first. The taste with which the exquisite decor has been designed; it’s simply beautiful in every direction that you look. Traditional yet contemporary, brought to life by the juxtaposition of modern, brightly-coloured velvets on sumptuous love seats and Chesterfield sofas, perfect parquet flooring, intricate cornacing and period furniture topped off with vertiginously high ceilings. The enormous, unusual, flower arrangements, the signature orange roses. It truly takes your breath away and is an Instagramers dream. Everything here is photogenic. From the jaw-dropping panorama- turn around and the whole front of the hotel with its floor to ceiling glass panels, is open directly on to the lake and mountains beyond, down to the tiniest details of the brightly-colourful sweets that are housed in delicate, blownglass jars, to which the children delighted in helping themselves one too many times!

Despite the uber-luxurious and opulent nature of the hotel, what really makes for an unforgettable experience is this combination with a warm and totally professional team of staff who make it their job to make you feel immediately at home. Italy is wellknown for being extremely child-friendly but there’s always a risk of snootiness, the higher up the hotel class ladder you climb. At the Grand Hotel Tremezzo, we felt truly welcomed and ours were certainly not the only children at the hotel. They soon made friends in the clubby snooker room, which they quickly discovered whilst exploring the grandiose corridors of the hotel.

Every space in this Belle Epoque triumph has a unique feel and personality. Statement furniture, luxurious Como silks, the elegant dining rooms and splendid halls are a joy in themselves. What is extremely appealing about the hotel though, is definitely the homely feel. You want to sit down, relax, take everything in and enjoy the surroundings. No feeling of being in an ornate museum here. Every detail adds value, creates wonderful memories.

The views to the back of the palace are as extraordinary as those to the front. For this is the park side. The verdant park that extends high up to the top of the hill - a fifteen minute easy trek with a surprise at the top - well worth the walk if you don’t mind heights - the secluded, awe-inspiring second, heated outdoor pool, the tennis court and outdoor pizza restaurant are all ensconced in its exotic greenery. Plenty of sun beds set in intimate corners, attentive staff at hand and views again to the lake beyond the hotel.

Once checked in, we took the fabulously ornate, back lift up to the fourth floor and to our interconnecting rooms. We could have walked up the fabulous staircase with huge windows and garden views but left that for

Pool with a view

Lush Green Gardens

later. The corridor, decorated to perfection, a giant arrangement of beautiful red roses and the hotel’s signature scent fills the air. Opening the doors we weren’t disappointed. You would think that with such a grand entrance, the bedrooms would have to be a let down, but to the contrary, things just kept getting better and better. Both of our interconnecting bedrooms had small balconies with seating, both had huge windows and both had views to die for. Waking up each morning to picture-perfection of the lake is an experience in itself.

The luxury and sumptuousness of the decor in communal spaces is carried through to the bedrooms. Electric blinds, huge marble bathrooms with deep tubs and really powerful showers and my personal favourite, the hotel’s own luxury toiletries. Pretty bottles and generous sizes of everything that you might need, including their signature scent in a pretty perfume bottle, which I had to bring home and in fact, am wearing as I write. Everything that you would expect from an uber-luxurious hotel is at your disposal.

We stayed in May, the week we were there temperatures were better than pleasant. Short sleeves, no need for cardigans, swimming in the heated back pool and sunbathing were all a pleasure however, I have to mention the magnificent and award-winning T Spa and indoor to outdoor infinity pool, complete with grotto and hydromassage. Accessed via the front lift and sitting one floor below the ground floor, facing, of course out on to the lake. Day beds for relaxing and watching life on the lake through the floor to ceiling windows. The Spa offers everything that you could wish for from a spectacular, Italian white Lasa marble hammam suite, the extravagant and highly glamorous Mosaico Studio for everything hands, feet and hair and a yoga studio. Plus a full heat experience with a sauna, steam room and ice fountain. Pampering here is not a problem and the treatments and facilities are state-of-the art and beautifully appointed. A visit or three is obligatory!

With five distinct bars and restaurants, all with optimum atmosphere and those jaw-dropping views; some outdoors, some in, the hotel has the capacity to cater to kosher guests with new pots and pans for each. Sit out on one of the terraces and feel totally and utterly indulged.

Although we could have stayed within the hotel and its grounds, there is so much to offer outside. You can simply stroll from the front door to visit the stunning museum of Villa Carlotta with its fascinating botanical gardens. This truly is a must do. Over three hundred years old, the villa combines a historical, artistic and botanical heritage on Lake Como. There’s both a longer and shorter walking tour through the gardens which offer a true kaleidoscope of colour. They offer a family experience too with tours and games to attract the younger visitors.

Each day we did something different. Making the most of our four nights. For the shopaholics, make the short drive across the border and into Switzerland to Mendrisio, where you will find FoxTown. A vast outlet mall bursting with designer bargains from the likes of Prada to Zegna to Ralph Lauren. We all came away with something and spent far too much money, but oh what good value!

We were away over my husband’s birthday and so were particularly well-looked after with plenty of wonderful surprises, but by far and away the most unforgettable was our private boat tour around the lake. The children were enchanted and I’m certain that they will keep cherished memories. Stepping onto the traditional, gleaming wooden venetian motor boat; classic and so very stylish, you feel as if you are living la dolce vita at its best. Utterly spoiled, we sat back and enjoyed the wind in our hair, the late afternoon sunshine and a fantastic tour of the lake, the lakeside villas, historical homes and their histories, some obligatory stories of George Clooney and of course the children got to steer the boat! I had never been one for boats, however, this truly luxurious experience converted me within seconds of stepping aboard. Our captain was a superstar and captivated all our attention throughout.

Bellagio is a must and kills two birds with one stone. The ferry stop is a ten minute stroll from the hotel, the ride directly across to Bellagio takes a mere ten minutes, so grab a seat upstairs and enjoy. Being situated at the heart of the lake, directly opposite the hotel, Bellagio, or the ‘Pearl of Lake Como’ is famous for its two villas - Serbelloni and Melzi but you can’t help but fall in love the minute your eyes meet the boats and the waterfront scene that greet them. Bellagio is a maze of cobbled streets and boutiques, green-shuttered colourful buildings, parks and picturesque churches. It is unmissable and for this reason, can get busy. So plan your visit well and be prepared to walk, walk, walk!

In the blink of an eye, our trip was over. Travelling as we did during covid, before the quarantine that exists as I write on entry to Italy- hopefully to be dropped for UK citizens soon, we felt totally and utterly at ease and safe. The hotel follows the protocols strictly, they even produce their own signature orange sanitiser. Also, the common areas are all so wide open and airy. Breathing in fresh lake air, never felt so healthy. A long linger in the hotel shop, your last chance for stylish Italian purchases, plus the chance to take away some very luxurious Grand Hotel Tremezzo souvenirs; they produce many little luxuries in their signature scent as well as colour and Milan airport beconned. A trip of a lifetime from start to finish. A one in a million hotel that truly leaves you with exceptional and the sweetest of memories. I cannot wait to return. This is where you stay for Lake Como. It’s the ultimate. I assure you of that.

www.grandhoteltremezzo.com

Starting rates: Rooms available from EUR 700/approx. £600 per night + VAT; free cancellation up to eight days prior to arrival.

The iconic Grand Hotel Tremezzo

Water-on-the-water, floating pool on the lake

SHOPPING LIST

SUMMER BODY

One of my top, go-to brands is Olverum. Their iconic bath oil, beloved of celebrities and Royals, is exactly what’s needed to keep summer limbs hydrated and supple. The body polish launched this year is the perfect antidote to skin that had been in lengthy hibernation. Spa-quality products that harness decades of green wellness expertise. The divine polish combines sustainably sourced papaya enzymes with hydroclay and bamboo extract along with a nourishing cocktail of essential oils. Available at https://www.spacenk.com/ uk/home

GLAMOUROUS RESORT WEAR

For full on glamour by the pool, head to the inimitable Melissa Odabash. Her beach, swim- and resort wear collections are worn by those in the know, the world over. Cool kaftans, beautiful beachwear and super stylish accessories. If you want the best of the best, this is your place. https://www.odabash.com/

COVID TESTS

Pre-Departure

For pre-departure PCR testing we used Collinson. They are the UK’s leading Covid-19 travel testing provider and government approved for mandatory and test to release PCR tests. This makes a huge difference, as they work with a large network of labs, they’re able to process at scale. They have testing centres at Heathrow Terminals 2 and 5, Stansted, City, Luton , Manchester and East Midlands airports, as well as APH Gatwick and the 02 Arena. These guys are consummate professionals and I highly recommend them. https://www.collinsongroup.com/en/ covid-19-testing

ITALIAN SIDE

Back into our car and off to a quick drive-through covid testing centre next to the airport. Swabbed from the car and results within 15 minutes, whilst you wait. Parkin Go is where you need to book. They offer cheap, quick and easy testing at many airports. Book online here https://www.parkingo.com/en/ rapid-antigen-molecular-swab

AIRPORT PARKING

We almost always drive and drop. With the kids and the luggage - we have a large car, it’s easier and you are in control! Back to Heathrow, where the queues were nowhere to be seen and a quick call to Meet and Greet had our car waiting for us in the T5 car park, steps from the terminal door. www.holidayextras.com/

Suite overlooking Lake Como