Emma Green in Peru by The JMetzger Group

SPECIAL REPORT: EMMA GREEN IN PERU

INTERNATIONAL FEBRUARY 2015

EXPLORER

TREK TO

MACHU PICCHU

Hiking the Inca Trail

EMMA ON THE

AMAZON Dining on piranha, visiting with monkeys, sleeping under the stars

CONTENTS

Introduction

Marketplace Caral

6 8

Huaraz

Amazon Ariquippa Inca Trail On the covers

18 20

Front cover: Emma Green; Hauraz, Peru; late September, 2014. Back cover: Emma Green; Ariquippa, Peru; late November, 2014.

All photography: Emma Kathryn Green. Maps/supplemental research: Unk Locators. February 2015. INTERNATIONAL EXPLORER ■ Emma Green in Peru ■ February 2015

BOLIVIA

AIN NT

La Punta

Surf’s Up! Miraflores

he left in the early morning hours of Aug. 5, 2014 for a country we̓d never seen to live with a family we didn't know. And all of us were a little apprehensive. But deep inside we had a good feeling and we trusted in that. Emma had done such a good job preparing for this four-month stay in Lima, Peru. Immunizations: Check. Bags packed: Check. Passport: Check. The months of preparation were finally paying off. Neither of us had ever traveled abroad, let alone while in college. As parents, we thought it would be difficult to see her take this long journey. PERU, SOUTH AMERICA As the departure got closer, we were surprised to feel more excited COLOMBIA than anxious for her – at ECUADOR least up until the hours just before she was to leave. Even though she Iquitos ● had planned well and was traveling with other students from IU, we sensed in her a growing reluctance and uneasiness. BRAZIL Of course, we understood. ● Turillo She was scared. Who wouldn’t be? Four months ● Hauraz was such a long time. Despite the fears, we Caral ● PACIFIC knew she would have an ●Callao OCEAN ● LIMA ✮ amazing experience. Machu Picchu ● Miraflores We had talked about ● Cuzco how to stay safe, about the lifelong relationships she would make and how Arequipa those connections would ● make the trip memorable. Little did we know how true that would be. It was still dark outside when we left CHILE home. It was very early, and the airport was practically empty. This was it: We had to say goodbye. The trip she had talked about for so long – the trip we all had prayed about – was upon us. We received the call from Emma at 1:30 the next morning. There she was, on the phone sounding as though she were right next door. She had arrived safely and we all felt a huge sense of relief. She told us she was greeted by her host mom, Selma Price, who had waited up for her. Selma told her to use her phone to call home. We knew then that our instincts were right, that she was going to embark on an adventure of a lifetime, and that she would be well cared for. That gave us both a sense of relief and strengthened our belief in the kindness of strangers. DE

EXPLORER

Trujillo

INTERNATIONAL

This magazine is a journal of our dear daughter Emma's

semester-long immersion with the Price family in Lima, Peru, a place we didn't know and a family we'd never met. Her personal account captured on these pages – in her words and in her images – are lessons for those of us who didn't go. Emma, at her young age of 20, had the adventure of a lifetime. This is for you Emma, to always cherish, to always remember.

Mom and Dad

“

Having been in Lima for well over a month now, I’ve begun to realize how easy it is to let time slip by without taking the time to write. ● I want to share this experience with my family and friends to show how blessed I’ve been after ● receiving so much of their support and encouragement. Early in the morning on August 5, 2014, I headed to the [Indianapolis] airport with my parents. There, I met up with two other members of the Lima study abroad program. We boarded our flight to Miami, where we took advantage of a long layover and spent the day in South Beach. After baking in the August sun (Mom: sunscreen thoroughly applied), I boarded the plane for a 5-hour flight to Lima. On the plane ride there, I remember thinking that I wanted to turn back. I was afraid of the challenges I would face in a Spanish-speaking country. What if I’m not fluent enough? What if my host family hates me? What if my real family forgets me? I’m incredibly directionally challenged. What if I get lost? After 6 weeks in Lima, I’ve discovered that without facing these challenges, I would be limiting myself. How else am I supposed to learn and grow?

“ If you aren’t in over your head,

how do you know how tall you are? T. S. Eliot

●

”

Thankfully, when I first arrived in Lima to meet my host family, I knew that I had gotten lucky. My host mom, Selma, was the first to greet me when I arrived late that night. We exchanged a few e-mails before my arrival, but I felt so relieved to finally meet her face-to-face! Something that I’ve always been taught growing up is, “give, and you will receive.” After spending a lot of time with Selma, I’ve found that so many of her daily actions validate this aphorism. What she considers an inability to say “no,” I’ve witnessed as a gift for which others are truly grateful. The following day I met my host dad, Augusto. We were sitting down for lunch when he asked me to write down my last name to clarify the spelling. As I’m writing out ‘Green,’ I look up to see him staring at my hand. Host parents: He says, “You can’t Selma and Augusto Price honestly tell me that’s the way you hold a pencil” (translation). After admitting that yes, in fact, I do write with the pencil lying in between my middle and ring finger, he proceeds to teach me the “proper” way. Augusto’s character is best described by his light-hearted nagging. We hit it off immediately. I am so thankful to be able to share this experience with my roommate Coleen, who is also from IU. Her free-spirited nature and love for life has taught me to worry less and enjoy more! I have so much to learn from the people who surround me each day, and also from the thriving melting pot of Peruvian culture.

”

Emma K. Green Blog post September 18, 2014

INTERNATIONAL EXPLORER ■ Emma Green in Peru ■ February 2015

The Marketplace

“

A feast for the senses!

…The food! The food here is wonderful. Lunch is the biggest meal of the day, and there has been something new to try each day. Two nights ago we ate Rocoto Relleno, stuffed Rocoto peppers with egg whites, meat, onions, and olives. Delicious. Here in Lima, there is such a great appreciation for the food – its preparation, flavor, history – everything! … Food is a major topic of conversation in Peru. Augusto, my host dad, constantly praises my host mom, Selma, for her cooking and the wonderful dishes she prepares. “Que rico!” or “How delicious/rich!,” he always says. …

”

Excerpt of email from Emma to her aunt, Juli Metzger. August 14, 2014.

INTERNATIONAL EXPLORER ■ Emma Green in Peru ■ February 2015

“

… I’ve only been here for 9 days and I already feel that I’ve learned a great deal of Spanish. I’m improving every day. My host mom, Selma, told me that she has seen a huge difference in my speaking over the course of just one week. That was so exciting for me to hear! I can’t wait to compare my Spanish today to my Spanish in four months. I’ve never had so much fun learning. Constantly trying to focus on and translate a

different language being spoken is exhausting, but I like the challenge. …The university here is called La Pontificia Universidad Catolica del Peru, or PUCP. According to my host dad, Augusto, it is the best private university in Peru. And it’s very nice! A population of 26,000. …

Immersion

“Talking the talk”

”

Excerpt of email from Emma to her aunt, Juli Metzger. August 14, 2014. INTERNATIONAL EXPLORER ■ Emma Green in Peru ■ February 2015

Caral, Peru

Early September, 2014

● Turillo

●

Hauraz Caral ●

LIMA

●Callao

✮

●

PACIFIC OCEAN

Miraflores

The Sacred City of Caral-Supe is located 175 km (109 miles) from Lima. The 5000-year-old 626-hectare (1,546-acre) archaeological site is situated on a dry desert terrace overlooking the green valley of the Supe river. It dates back to the Late Archaic Period of the Central Andes and is the oldest center of civilization in the Americas. Exceptionally well-preserved, the site is impressive in terms of its design and the complexity of its architecture, especially its monumental stone and earthen platform mounts and sunken circular courts. One of 18 urban settlements situated in the same area, Caral features complex and monumental architecture, including six large pyramidal structures. A quipu (the knot system used in Andean civilizations to record information) found on the site testifies to the development and complexity of Caral society. The city’s plan and some of its components, including pyramidal structures and residence of the elite, show clear evidence of ceremonial functions, signifying a powerful religious ideology. Source: World Heritage Convention/UNESCO

INTERNATIONAL EXPLORER ■ Emma Green in Peru ■ February 2015

Huaraz, Peru

Late September, 2014

“

● Turillo

●

Hauraz Caral ●

LIMA

●Callao

✮

●

PACIFIC OCEAN

Miraflores

Last weekend, a group of friends and I travelled to the city of Huaraz. We left Thursday night and took a 7-hour bus ride to the city where we arrived early Friday morning at our hostel, Jo’s Place. I loved all of the colors! The sky was blue and the sun was shining! The owner of the hostel was wonderful and gave us recommendations of places to travel outside the city. We decided to take advantage of our first day there, so we dropped off our bags and left for a 3-hour bus ride south of Huaraz to Pastoruri Glacier. While riding up Peru’s Cordillera Blanca, I couldn’t take my eyes off of the massive landforms that surrounded the bus on either side. Mountains. Are. Huge. The landscape was stunning. We were dropped off at an elevation of 4,800 meters where we began our one hour trek to Pastoruri Glacier. The trek up to Pastoruri was a lot more difficult than it should have been because we were still adjusting to the high altitude, but we made it! I took loads of pictures, but once I reached the glacier I put my camera away and just sat … so peaceful … that lasted for about 2 minutes until I saw a different view or angle or the clouds moved or I just felt like I had to add to the hundreds of photos I had already taken. Our group was told that within the last 20 years, Pastoruri glacier has shrunk to half its original size and will likely be completely gone within the next decade. Pastoruri was once packed with tourists that would scale, ski, and play on the ice. Climbing or touching the glacier is no longer permitted in order to prolong its existence. After spending our day in Pastoruri, we arrived back at our hostel, planned our day for Saturday, slept, then left for Huascarán National Park — also in Peru’s Corillera Blanca — where we trekked for a breathtaking 3.5 hours to Laguna 69. On my way to the lagoon, I passed waterfalls, rivers, lakes, mountains, ruins, grass, snow, dirt, rocks, trees, plants, flowers … How can there be so much nature in one place all at once? I absolutely loved it. This was by far my favorite day spent outside of Lima. Having taken advantage of our weekend in Hauraz so far by exploring nature, we wanted to also check out the historical and cultural significance of Huaraz by visiting the ruins of Chavín de Huántar. The archeological site of Chavín de Huántar, located in the Peruvian Andes of the Cordillera Blanca, was home to the civilization of Chavín between the 15th and 5th century BC. While there, we learned about Chavín as an important religious center throughout the Andean region. This pre-Colombian site is known for its elaborate and symbolic architecture including stone sculptures and columns.

”

Emma K. Green Blog post, October 5, 2014

INTERNATIONAL EXPLORER ■ Emma Green in Peru ■ February 2015

Huaraz, Peru

Late September, 2014

INTERNATIONAL EXPLORER ■ Emma Green in Peru ■ February 2015

Trujillo, Peru

Early October, 2014

Turillo Francisco Pizarro founded Trujillo in 1534, and he thought so highly of this patch of desert he named it after his birthplace ● in Spain’s Estremadura. Spoiled Hauraz by the fruits of the fertile Caral Moche Valley, Trujillo never ● had to worry about money ●Callao – wealth came easily. With LIMA life’s essentials taken care of, ● thoughts turned to politics and Miraflores life’s grander schemes; the city has a reputation for being a hotbed of revolt. The town, about 830 km (515 miles) from Lima, was besieged during the Inca rebellion of 1536 and in 1820 was the first Peruvian city to declare independence from Spain. The behemoth Chimú capital of Chan Chan is nearby, though little remains of what was once the largest adobe city in the world. Other Chimú sites bake in the surrounding desert, among them the immense and suitably impressive Moche Huacas del Sol y de la Luna (Temples of the Sun and Moon), which date back 1,500 years. ●

✮

PACIFIC OCEAN

Source: lonelyplanet.com

INTERNATIONAL EXPLORER ■ Emma Green in Peru ■ February 2015

Miraflores District, Lima, Peru Mid-October, 2014 ● Turillo

●

Hauraz Caral ●

LIMA

●Callao

✮

●

PACIFIC OCEAN

Miraflores

INTERNATIONAL EXPLORER ■ Emma Green in Peru ■ February 2015

La Punta District, Callao, Peru

Late October, 2014 ● Turillo

●

Hauraz Caral ●

LIMA

●Callao

✮

●

PACIFIC OCEAN

Miraflores

La Punta is one of seven districts that make up the Constitutional Province of Callao. It is located on a peninsula in the western part of the province and is almost entirely surrounded by the Pacific Ocean, except on its eastern side, where it is bordered by Downtown Callao. It is about 15km (9.5 miles) from the city of Lima, Peru. The first inhabitants of La Punta were fishermen, but is now mostly an upper middle class district, where Callao’s most prestigious families have historically lived. La Punta was at one time known as “Punta del Callao” (the point/end of Callao). On October 6, 1915 La Punta was officially established as district of the Constitutional Province of Callao. Source: limaeasy.com

INTERNATIONAL EXPLORER ■ Emma Green in Peru ■ February 2015

Amazon Rainforest Iquitos, Peru

Early November, 2014

COLOMBIA ECUADOR

Iquitos ●

AN DE IN TA

N OU SM

BRAZIL

● Turillo

●

LIMA

●Callao

✮

●

Machu Picchu Miraflores ● Cuzco

●

BOLIVIA

PACIFIC OCEAN

Hauraz Caral

Arequipa ●

The Amazon rainforest is a moist broadleaf forest that covers most of the Amazon Basin of South America. The basin encompasses 7,000,000 square km. (4.34 million square miles) of which 5,500,000 square km. (3.4 million square miles) are covered by the rainforest. The region includes territory belonging to nine nations. The Amazon represents over half of the planet’s remaining rainforests, and comprises the largest and most biodiverse tract of tropical rainforest in the world, with an estimated 390 billion individual trees divided into 16,000 species. The city of Iquitos lies in the heart of the Peruvian Amazon Rainforest. Linked to the outside world by air and by river, Iquitos is the world’s largest city that cannot be reached by road. Iquitos is a prosperous, vibrant jungle metropolis that is about 1,015 km. (630 miles) from Lima. Source: lonelyplanet.com

CHILE

INTERNATIONAL EXPLORER ■ Emma Green in Peru ■ February 2015

Amazon Rainforest Iquitos, Peru

Early November, 2014

INTERNATIONAL EXPLORER ■ Emma Green in Peru ■ February 2015

Ariquippa, Peru

Late November, 2014 Caral ●

●Callao

✮LIMA ●

Miraflores

Arequipa ●

PACIFIC OCEAN Arequipa is Peru’s second largest city and was founded in 1540. It is well-known for its glistening white buildings made from sillar, a white volcanic rock, which gives the city its nickname“La Ciudad Blanca” or “The White City.” Arequipa is 1020 km (about 635 miles) from Lima. The city is surrounded by 3 volcanoes; El Misti, still active at 5,822 meters (19,101 feet), the higher and extinct Chachani at 6,075 meters (19,872 feet) and Pichu Pichu at 5,664 meters (18,583 feet) which is also inactive. The Incas highly respected these volcanoes because the melted water from their snow-capped peaks form the headwaters of the mighty Amazon River, thousands of kilometers away. One of the most popular attactions for tourists is the Plaza de Armas and Cathedral. On the north side of the Plaza is the impressive, twin-towered Cathedral, founded in 1612 and largely rebuilt in the 19th Century after being repeatedly damaged by earthquakes and fire. Source: andeantravelweb.com

INTERNATIONAL EXPLORER ■ Emma Green in Peru ■ February 2015

Inca Trail Machu Picchu, Peru Early December, 2014

The Inca Trail is by far the most famous trek in South America and is rated by many to be in the top 5 treks in the world. In just 43km (26 miles), the trail, located in the Andes mountain range about 500 km (315 miles) from Lima, it manages to combine several types of Andean environments including lush cloud-forest, alpine tundra and subtropical jungle and, of course, a stunning mix of settlements, Inca paving stones, Incan ruins and tunnels. The terminus of the trail at the Sun Gate cannot be beaten: Machu Picchu, the mysterious “Lost City of the Incas”.

BRAZIL

● Turillo

●

Hauraz Caral ●

●Callao

✮

●

Machu Picchu Miraflores ● Cuzco

N OU SM

●

LIMA

BOLIVIA

IN TA Arequipa ●

PACIFIC OCEAN CHILE

INTERNATIONAL EXPLORER ■ Emma Green in Peru ■ February 2015

Source: incatrailperu.com

INTERNATIONAL EXPLORER ■ Emma Green in Peru ■ February 2015

Inca Trail Machu Picchu, Peru Early December, 2014

INTERNATIONAL EXPLORER ■ Emma Green in Peru ■ February 2015

INTERNATIONAL

EXPLORER SPECIAL REPORT: EMMA GREEN IN PERU FEBRUARY 2015