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Ask the Experts
INDICATORS THAT MY TREE IS ALIVE OR DEAD
Question: I know this sounds like a dumb question but how do I tell if a tree is dead? We moved in after the leaves dropped. I am concerned about the tree.
Answer: Remember, there are no dumb questions. This is a good question. Ideally you would be able to wait until spring and tree leaf-out before making any life-ordeath decisions. Here are some tips to help you decide. Bend a couple of pencil- or thumb-size diameter branches. They should be flexible. If they snap, they are more than likely dead. Take your thumbnail or a sharp knife. Cut under the bark layer. A healthy tree should have a green or white and moist appearance. This tells us that the cambium layer is alive. If it is dry and brown, it is dead.
Look for signs of bark falling off the tree. A healthy tree should have the bark intact. Tap the trunk. If there is a thud sound and the bark layer does not give, good news. If there is a hollow sound, the bark is loose, and the cambium layer is dead in that area. Do you see mushroom growth from the branches? Older branches or even the trunk that has been dead for some time will start to decay.
When in doubt wait until spring for a final diagnosis.
SOIL TEST ANSWERS LAWN TREATMENT QUESTION
Question: My lawn service left a note on my door saying my lawn needed lime and they were ready to apply. Do I need this application? I feel like they want my money instead of what’s right for the lawn.
Answer: Did they test your soil to determine the pH level? Did you ask to see a soil test report which indicates the pH level? Without a current soil test indicating the need, NEVER EVER apply lime. Lime raises the soil pH. Area soils already tend to be high which can result in nutrients not being available for growth.
The pH level of the soil regulates nutrient availability. When too low or high those nutrients are bonded tightly and not available for plant growth. Soil testing can be done through any of the metro area Extension offices, usually for a fee of less than $20. Here in Johnson County we have a free soil test program. Before you let them ap-
ply lime either ask for the test or take one yourself (https://www. johnson.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/ soil-testing/free-soil-test.html). gift. Check from time to time and if the soil is dry, water with 10 gallons or so. Water when the soil is not frozen. The good news is root development will start as soon as the temps warm which will to help get a jump on growth.
On a side note, be sure to water the tree during the summer. I pass trees on my way to work that the city planted. Beautiful, properly
planted, but with the drought last summer the homeowner did not find the time to water and by fall they were dead! What a waste of money and time.
Keep aphids in check until the plant can be returned outdoors.
PLANTING TREES IN WINTER
Question: My neighborhood has been devastated by Emerald Ash Borer and the city removed the dead trees. Now they would like to replant. My concern is they want to do this in the dead of winter. Is this advised?
Answer: Trees can be planted year-round. The issue with winter planting is the potentially harsh and dry conditions. If the tree is planted properly, and watered adequately, the winter planted tree should do just fine. The main concern would be a very dry winter and not being watered.
Take the tree from the city as a WHEN TO START GROWING TRANSPLANTS
Question: I am going start a few transplants under grow lights in my basement. When should I start them?
Answer: Growing your own transplants can be fun and rewarding. The timing is dependent on several factors. As a rule, most flower and vegetable transplants take about 6 to 8 weeks from seeding to planting. The best way to determine when to seed is to count backward. Start with the date you plan on planting outside and count back 6 to 8 weeks. That is your planting date. Let’s say you want to start tomatoes and plant outside the week of May 15. Six weeks earlier would be the week of April 3.
The amount of time varies with your growing conditions. Take good notes and adjust the timing in future years. The seed packet may also contain the estimated time needed to produce a healthy transplant. My hunch is most gardeners get excited to plant and start too soon, which results in overgrown plants.
HOW TO MANAGE APHIDS INDOORS
Question: I brought a large tropical hibiscus indoors that was on my patio. Now I have an infestation of aphids. What can I do to help get rid of this pest?
Answer: There are a potential number of hitchhikers that enter our homes on plants during the winter months. Also, indoors they have no natural predators so their populations can quickly spike. The best suggestion would be to apply an organic insecticidal soap. This product is a mixture that suffocates the soft bodied insect. The product works by contact so a thorough spray for coverage is a must. Be sure the application reaches all sides and surfaces of the leaves. It will also take repeated applications to keep the numbers down.
Insecticidal soaps are not a mixture of dish soap and water. These are formulated to be safe on plants and are made from fatty acids. Dish soap can burn the leaf as it can remove the waxy covering on the leaf. I realize the internet is full of recipes for making your own with dish soap, but these are not recommended.
Since the aphids tend to be most prominent at the tips, or the point of new growth, extremely heavily infested limbs can be pruned to also help reduce the population. The goal is to keep the aphids in check until the plant can be returned outdoors in the spring.
DENNIS PATTON Horticulture Agent
Dennis Patton is the horticulture agent for Johnson County K-State Research and Extension. For free information fact sheets, visit www.johnson.ksu.edu, or call the Extension office at 913-715-7000.