Homegrown Delicacies: Part One

Rose Report

Recently, I was walking in the woods with a customer, discussing woodland restoration, when she mentioned that people had been trespassing, and were seen leaving with bags of plants, likely destined for the kitchen. It didn’t take long to find what they were after. I’m not going to reveal what the plant was, other than to say that there are many native plants that are sought after by top-notch and tinkering chefs and even more people who are willing to risk fines, jail time, and perhaps a loaded shotgun to poach them. Harvesting plant parts from public property, if not expressly allowed, is against the law, as is trespassing on private property. The perfect solution: grow and harvest wild edible plants yourself.

Let’s start with herbal teas. Wild strawberry leaves and linden flowers are two favorites of mine, and both are super easy to grow. Native strawberry (Fragaria virginica) (not the non-native “strawberry” groundcover present in some lawns) is easy enough to harvest, if you can lean over to pick them from the ground without pulling a muscle in your back. Linden (Tilia spp.) requires reaching up or standing on a ladder. First order of business, be safe. Linden trees bloom in early summer. Their flowers are delicately fragrant, like jasmine, and are pollinated by moths at night and bees by day. For the best flavor, strawberry leaves and linden flowers should be dried before steeping in water at 180° for three minutes, either together or separately. Mmmm-mmm good!

Another favorite tea is sassafras (Sassafras albidum). A six-inch portion of half-inch diameter (or smaller) root is harvested, washed, and cut into 1/8th inch slices. The freshly harvested and chopped root smells like wintergreen or root beer. Steep two tablespoons of chopped root in a quart of pure water, heated to 170°.

Another customer recently asked for stinging or wood nettle (Laportea canadensis)—the floodplain species that stings and itches pinkish red skin and boiling in two separate pots of water to remove the nasty stuff that will give you a bad stomach ache. Both are tender and delicious early in the season.

My son used to grab and eat handfuls of wild garlic when he was one—is the prettiest, with its purple or blue flowers. They should be your best friend in the garden, because they fill the gaps between other plants, creating stability in the garden; a blanket of protection against weeds. They are also host like crazy if you brush up against it on a walk wearing shorts. But there’s nothing tastier than steamed nettle leaves, dripping with butter, salt, and pepper, or added to a broth with arugula and stale bread (see Marcella Hazan’s The Classic Italian Cook Book). Surely somebody will start selling wood nettle plants at the local farmer’s market when people discover how tasty they are. Other yummy steamed green come from wild goldenglow (Rudbeckia laciniata) and pokeweed (Phytolacca americana).

Note that goldenglow is a mild laxative, and take caution when eating pokeweed. Pokeweed contains toxins and requires harvesting only very young shoots and leaves, stripping off the outer

SCOTT WOODBURY Horticulturist

little—you know, those weedy onions that show up in old fields and gardens. Have you ever tasted it? If you ask me, it’s pretty potent stuff with a harsh aftertaste. For more refined palettes, there are wild leeks (Allium tricoccum), which is available at some native plant nurseries. It takes a few years to grow a small patch, but it is well worth the effort. While waiting for the patch to grow, harvest only a few leaves at a time to flavor an omelette or salad. In a few years, you’ll be harvesting bulbs as well.

In the book Stalking the Wild Asparagus, author Euell Gibbons wrote that a half cup of chopped violet leaves has the Vitamin C content of five oranges. In spring and early summer, I love adding violet leaves and flowers to a salad. The leaves get tough by mid-season. Any species will do, but common violet (Viola sororia)—the weedy plants for great spangled fritillary butterflies. I also like adding young, tender leaves of chickweed, plantain, strawberry, spiderwort, lamb’s quarter, and dandelion to a salad—what amazing texture and flavor this combination has! Top it all off with redbud flowers for a festive, delightful early-season salad.

A conversation about wild edible plants wouldn’t be complete without talking about berries and other fresh fruit. Look for my next article, “Homegrown Delicacies: Part Two,” where I will cover them in detail. In the meantime, know that there are many that you can easily grow in your garden, including serviceberry, elderberry, red mulberry, Missouri gooseberry, strawberry, golden currant, pawpaw, persimmon, and wild plum. Oh dear, my mouth is watering thinking about it.

Happy gardening y’all!

Note: These resources on native edibles are intended as general information only. As with any foods, there is a potential for allergic reactions when consuming native edibles. Always seek the advice of a health professional with any questions about touching or eating any plant matter.

Scott Woodbury was the horticulturist at Shaw Nature Reserve for 30 years and stepped down from that position in June 2022. He continues to work on contract for Shaw Nature Reserve to carry out native landscaping education and has launched his own business called Cacalia: Native Garden Design and Wilding. Find suppliers of native plants, seeds, and services at the Grow Native! Resource Guide: www.moprairie.org.