Meditation on Migrations

Two winters ago, my dad and I walked to the top of the hill near the headquarters of the Loess Bluffs National Wildlife Refuge. As we approached the top and peered out across the vast floodplains, one thing was clear. From the hill we could make out a large clump of white among the blue water. We continued to watch this large white clump, everything seemingly still and predictable. But, out of nowhere, an eagle flew, gradually approaching the white clump. Madness ensued. Thousands upon thousands of snow geese flew out of the water, revealing their bold black wings and growing progressively louder each moment. After a few minutes, the activity died down. The geese settled back into their previous rhythm, and the eagle left, perhaps successful or perhaps not, I do not remember. But what I do remember from that winter day was the absolute chaos of the moment, one that characterizes Loess Bluffs and one that never gets old.

Nestled in the Loess Hills in northwest Missouri, the humble Squaw Creek flows. It, as well as a few other nearby streams, empty out into a flat area on the eastern edge of the Missouri River bottoms, and the result is spectacular. Thousands of acres of prime wetland habitat are created and maintained in the process, conveniently placed in between two major bird migration highways: the central and Mississippi flyways. These factors culminate to create one of the most important stopover sights for birds in North America.

Loess Bluffs’ significance as a stopover site is perhaps most evident during October and November, as hundreds of thousands of snow geese cycle through the refuge, making their way from their breeding grounds in the high arctic down south to their wintering grounds throughout the Midwest. On some occasions, over a million geese congregate on the wetlands in the area. Joining them are thousands of various waterfowl, hundreds of Trumpeter Swans, and dozens of Sandhill Cranes. They pit stop here to stock up and rest before they disperse throughout the middle of the country; some, however, will be at the refuge for the duration of the winter. During the early winter months, Bald Eagles also utilize the refuge as a migratory chokepoint, and at times, hundreds can be seen patrolling the wetlands, terrorizing those in its path. It is not uncommon to see an eagle snatch a goose, and sometimes eagles and other birds of prey will leave geese carcasses throughout the wetlands as a sign of their success. However, as winter progresses, the chaos slowly subsides and many birds return to their wintering grounds throughout the Midwest.

In the spring and fall, the bird scene is quite a bit different. By April each year, thousands of shorebirds begin to arrive. Loess Bluffs is by far the most reliable place around Kansas City to see waders such as the charismatic Hudsonian Godwit, the tuxedoed Blacknecked Stilt, and flocks of the boldly patterned American Avocet. The hills and the wetlands are also dotted with hundreds of warblers, especially later in the spring. On some days, Yellow, Blackpoll and Tennessee Warblers can be heard at nearly every stop throughout the refuge. Joining them in the spring chorus is a myriad of Baltimore and Orchard Orioles, as well as Dickcissels and Eastern Kingbirds that surround the refuge’s grasslands. On a good day in mid-May, over 140 species can be observed at Loess Bluffs.

As fall turns into winter, things will once again begin to pick up at Loess Bluffs. The geese will return, and so will thousands of their friends. The ducks will also return, as will the swans. And the eagles. Loess Bluffs is simply a glimpse into this ancient migration, a wild place where birds can roam free.

Bald Eagle Flock of Snow Geese

Sandhill Crane

WILL KIRSCH Birding Expert

Will has been an avid birder for five years and has worked at the Wild Birds Unlimited in Leawood, Kansas, for three years. His father introduced him to the hobby and ever since then he has been hooked. He enjoys sharing his extensive bird knowledge with anyone who asks and is very well informed about birding specific to our region. His favorite spots to bird in the Kansas City area are Roe Park, Shawnee Mission Park, Clinton Lake, and Loess Bluffs National Wildlife Refuge.

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