Growing Garlic

Growing Garlic incredibly easy, culinary convenience

If someone asked me which vegetable or fruit requires the least amount of work for the most amount of monetary value, my answer would always be garlic. Not only does a single head of organically grown garlic cost close to a dollar at the store or farmers market, but growing garlic also requires minimal effort and maintenance – just a little patience.

You see, garlic has a different growth pattern than other vegetables we’re used to planting. For the biggest heads of garlic, we typically plant in the fall. The plants develop roots before winter weather sets in, then rest over the frigid winter months. When the soil warms in early spring, they spring back to life, push out leaves and continue growing until we harvest the entire plant in mid-summer, nine months after planting.

In Kansas City, the ideal time to plant garlic is in early October, so now is the time to head to the garden center or online store to purchase what is called “certified seed garlic” bulbs. While garlic can be grown from actual seeds collected when a plant blooms, you’ll get a full bulb of garlic much faster by planting individual cloves of seed garlic from a bulb. Each clove you plant will grow into a full head over the course of about nine months. It’s important to buy certified seed garlic rather than plant the extra cloves that started sprouting in your pantry because the cloves at the store are often treated with a growth inhibitor to prevent sprouting while in transit or at the grocery store. In addition, there’s no guarantee that the variety sold at the store is ideal for growing in our climate.

Once you’ve purchased your seed garlic bulbs from the garden center or they’ve arrived in the mail, get ready to plant. Ensure the soil you’re planting in is loose and has plenty of organic matter like compost. I also like to add in some slow release organic fertilizer like Espoma Garden Tone at planting time to give the cloves a boost as they develop roots. To plant, break apart the large head of garlic into individual cloves, leaving the papery wrapping on each clove. Choose the largest cloves to plant and save small cloves for use in the kitchen. The larger the clove, the larger the eventual head of garlic. Plant the cloves about three inches deep and four to six inches apart with the pointy end of the clove up.

A few weeks after planting, when the soil has cooled down for winter, I cover the planting area with two to three inches of shredded fall leaves from our lawnmower. This helps the soil retain moisture over the winter. If you don’t have access to leaves, straw or dried grass clippings are good options as well. Other than mulching, no care is needed over the winter.

In spring, pull back some of the shredded leaf mulch to allow the tiny green sprouts to see the sun, and apply a slow release organic fertilizer on top of the soil. Worms and spring rain will help the fertilizer make its way down to the roots of the plants. When summer arrives, check on the garlic and ensure the soil stays relatively damp, but not soggy. In May or June, some varieties will produce scapes, which are circular stalks that grow out of the top of the plant. When you see these, pinch them off at the area where they meet the plant’s leaves. If left on the plant, scapes will produce flowers and rob the growing garlic bulb of some of its energy. Luckily, scapes are edible and quite tasty! They’re often grilled or blended into garlic scape pesto sauce.

In late June to early July (for Kansas City gardeners) you’ll notice the lower half of each plant’s leaves have dessicated and turned yellow or brown. This means it’s time to harvest! Stop watering the plants for a few days to make the harvest process less muddy, then

grab your garden fork or shovel. Gently dig about six inches away from the main stalk of the plant and pry up the soil to free the head of garlic. Brush off as much soil as you can with your hands or a soft bristled brush. Do not wash your newly harvested cloves as this can invite mold and mildew.

After you finish harvesting, it’s time to cure the garlic and dry the outer layers of skin to ensure it stores for as many months as possible. To do so, either lay it out horizontally or hang it up by its green leaves in a dark room with plenty of air circulation for four to five weeks. My favorite way to cure garlic is to rubber band four to five plants into a bundle by their leaves and hang them from hooks

on the ceiling of my garage, where I have a fan circulating air at all times. It makes for quite the aroma when opening the garage door, but the smell dissipates quickly and I’ve never had any problems with mold or rot.

Plus, my husband loves to joke that we’re the safest house on the block when it comes to vampires.

After several weeks, cut the roots and tops off of the bulbs and store them in a cool, dark area until use or share the bounty with friends and family!

CHELSEA DIDDE RICE Gardening Enthusiast

When Chelsea isn’t at work as a senior communications specialist, she is an avid gardener who enjoys teaching people how easy it can be to garden. You may reach her at chelseadidde@gmail.com.