On The List… Jericoacoara, Brazil

ON THE LIST Jericoacoara, northern Brazil

WORDS MIRIAM TYMIEC Photo: Wake Up Stoked

We don’t ‘dare to hope’ at the moment, but if we did then we would expect to be able to get away and travel this autumn. That would coincide with Brazil’s windy season and if you are dreaming of a ‘kiteeat-sleep-repeat’ kind of holiday in warm weather, then this Brazilian getaway, Jericoacoara or Jeri for short, is as good as it gets.

While the whole coast north from Fortaleza has one kite spot after another, Jeri, a former fishing and hippie village, is one of a kind for its vibe and atmosphere. It is all built on sand and sits in between dunes in a national park. During the bumpy ride through these dunes and desert scenery, you wouldn’t expect to find what awaits you at the end of the ride – you’ll watch the surfers or a spontaneous capoeira show, see the sun sink into the ocean from the main dune, then wander barefoot on unpaved sandy roads and buy the famous Brazilian cocktail caipirinha on Caipi Street, and maybe catch some live music.

There is wind all day every day during the season, and compared to the more southerly spots the wind is stronger and the windy season lasts all the way into January. From August until December or January you can expect 20 to 30 knots of side onshore wind on a daily basis, with the wind picking up slowly during the day and reaching its peak around 2 or 3pm until 5pm, when it gets a bit lighter towards sunset. There are multiple downwind options, and in fact Jeri is not a classic kite-straight-from-your-door spot, as it is more a starting or ending point for your downwinders. In the bay of Jeri itself you are not allowed to kite, only windsurfing and surfing are allowed, so you will have to go downwind of the main dune to start your downwinder. This can get quite gusty so is more ideal for intermediate riders. For beginners there are plenty of kite schools in Jeri as well as Preá, a village upwind from Jeri.

Condition-wise you can mostly expect choppy water that is flatter in the morning, getting choppier as the wind picks up in the afternoon. You can also find small wind-waves and flat-water lagoons along your downwinders. One downwinder highlight is from Jeri to the lagoon of Guriú, a tide-dependent lagoon, which has a few beach shacks to refuel yourself with a coconut or soft drink. If you still have energy you can make your way back out to the ocean and continue your downwinder to Tatajuba lagoon. But make sure you do this with an experienced guide who knows the tides, as it gets tricky getting back to Jeri at high tide. A cost you will need to factor in is the beach buggies or 4x4s for your daily downwinders. The drivers all charge pretty much the same price and it is hard to bargain, so if you are on a tighter budget it makes sense to share a buggy or 4x4 to split the cost.

Photo: Josh Hillman

Photo: Josh Hillman

Fly into Fortaleza then take a private transfer by 4x4 (4.5 hrs) or the bus (7 hrs). If you are feeling adventurous you can rent a car, however, for the last 45 minutes you’ll need a local guide to drive your car through the dunes and you’ll have to park it outside the village, so it’s only worth it if you want to explore various spots.

If you want to stay in Jeri to enjoy the nightlife and restaurants there are many options from budget to luxury. If you would prefer to stay at Preá check out Rancho do Peixe, one of the most atmospheric hotels and chill-out areas, although you can also find various options for all budgets in Preá.

If you come during the windy season you will most likely need a 6 to 9m. The wind gets stronger in the afternoon.

It is boardshorts-only kind of weather but bring along a rashguard as the sun is intense.

A beer is around 2 USD but I would recommend going for one of the gazillion caipi options, starting at 3 USD, with various fruits you have probably never tasted before.

Wanna join us for a downwinder?

I should have brought my 15m.

Staying There

In the Bag

Rubber

Beer

Most Likely to Hear

Least Likely To Hear

There are also many organized downwinder tours by passionate kiters who know the best spots and do daily kite trips. Driving with your own rental car, even if it is a 4x4, is quite risky, and you see tourists getting stuck in the sand with an incoming tide on an almost daily basis during high season!

Another beautiful downwinder is Barrinha to Preá, or Preá to Placa, or even all the way to Jeri for the more advanced riders, which has some beautiful stretches of flat water in between the waves and is one of my personal highlights and my favorite sunset ride. Expect to be almost alone on your downwinders, while in the lagoons or at Preá it is a bit more crowded, though nothing like other spots around the world. If you are not into downwinders and prefer to stay at one spot and kite outside your hotel, or if you prefer a quieter vibe, then Preá is the place to go. You can still get to Jeri by taxi for dinner and parties and come back at night. Plus you can drive to Preá with your own rental car as most of the village has proper roads.

Accommodation-wise you have loads of options in Jeri, from fancy hotels to small pousadas (the Brazilian version of bed and breakfast). For restaurants you have a wide variety for all budgets, from street stands to top-end restaurants, serving local and foreign food. A few highlights are Casa da Pedra for tapiocas, a crêpe made from cassava root, the lunch buffet at Club Ventos where you can watch the windsurfers and surfers, açai in Naturalmente, dinner in the fairytale Na Casa Dela, delicious fish and seafood at Peixe Brasileiro or sushi at Kaze. There are also a few supermarkets if you want to cook yourself. Jeri is a nice place to meet new people as a solo traveler and you will also find many non-kiters, usually Brazilians from southern Brazil, coming to mix along with the watersport-addicts. The only time of the year I would avoid Jeri is around New Year when it gets flooded with people, prices skyrocket and the whole vibe changes! ■