Finding Respite at 4,000ft

By Bonnie Woods

For some, it’s a soothing massage at the spa. For others, it’s a good book and a glass of wine or a warm day on a white sand beach. For me, it’s hiking. The woods provide a sense of peace and disconnection I didn’t know I needed in this digital age, and the vertical climb itself, a physical challenge that can’t be replicated indoors. Not only that, it’s free, healthy, and enjoyable with others or in solitude.

With quite literally hundreds of trails in the lakes region, there is something for everyone regardless of experience level. If you don’t consider yourself the outdoorsy type, you may be surprised how hiking can differ from other activities in the same vein as camping. There is a cathartic nature to being in nature (pardon the pun) particularly when there is an element of physical challenge involved. Hiking forces your complete attention. While hiking, you may find yourself enjoying life unplugged for a few hours, it may spark an inner competition to improve upon your own completion time, or perhaps you’ll simply enjoy the change of scenery from your normal walking or exercise routine. No matter the reason, many people find that hiking is just the respite they’ve been looking for.

Some approachable hikes in the area with a good bang-foryour-buck ratio are Lockes Hill Trail in Gilford, Mount Major just up the road in Alton, and Red Hill Fire Tower Loop Trail in Moultonborough. Lockes Hill is the easiest of the three, taking just about an hour to complete, yet it offers beautiful views of Lake Winnipesaukee with the Whites off in the distance. I recommend hiking clockwise to give yourself a gentler climb, saving the slightly steeper side for your descent.

Mount Major is one of the most popular hikes in the area and is a step up from Lockes Hill in terms of length and difficulty. Scenery-wise, it surpasses Lockes with its wide-open summit offering sweeping views of the lake and surrounding mountains from multiple vantage points. The trail starts off relatively flat before it turns sharply to the left and up the mountain. Depending on your fitness level, you can take the first left up the steeper Blue trail or the second left up the longer Yellow trail. The Blue trail has some rock scrambles towards the top, so best stick to Yellow if you are on the fence. Bring layers! Mount Major is known for having a particularly windy summit.

Over in Moultonborough, the Red Hill Fire Tower Loop Trail is comparable in difficulty to Mount Major and has some lovely historical structures along the way. Views of the surrounding mountains and lakes at the top are good but only partially visible unless you climb the three-story fire tower at the summit.

For those seeking a greater challenge, New Hampshire is home to 48 mountains that are over 4000 feet in elevation.

Many hikers set out to complete all 48 both as a personal test and to earn the coveted badge of honor that comes with formal submission to the Appalachian Mountain Club.

Mount Moosilauke is considered one of the easier 4000-footers and is only an hour or so from the lakes region. The climb is moderate and consistent with no particularly steep or technically difficult portions which makes it a great option for new hikers. It is suitable for older children and dogs and is very well maintained with established trails and markings. Don’t let the term “easy” fool you! This is still a substantial hike that requires physical fitness, preparation and basic hiking skills.

The most common and least challenging route to the summit is up the Gorge Brook Trail from the Ravine Lodge Trailhead. As the name implies, much of the ascent is alongside a lovely flowing stream providing some quintessential mountain charm. You’ll cross over the Baker River and Gorge Brook several times, but each crossing features a sturdy wooden bridge with handrails for safe crossing. Further up, you’ll entire the Alpine zone where the trees get a bit stumpier and the trail gets a bit rockier. Eventually you’ll emerge through the trees onto grassy terrain as you approach the summit.

You’ll be handsomely rewarded for your efforts with stunning 360-degree summit views from Moosilauke’s rocky peak. To the northeast is Franconia Ridge, to the east Waterville Valley, and to the west Vermont. Its large summit leaves you and the other hikers you’re sure to share it with plenty of space to relax, fuel up and soak it all in. If you’re lucky, you’ll get a clear day with a blanket of clouds just below.

Being above the treeline is a truly humbling experience, so try not to let the significance of this moment pass you by. Few people get to experience the serenity and beauty of an exposed mountain summit. This barren landscape can be harsh and unforgiving, with whipping winds and little protection from the elements, but its fragile ecosystem of lichen, moss, flowers, and grasses softens the harshness. A beautiful juxtaposition courtesy of Mother Nature!

Once you’re ready to pack up, you’ll have the option of hiking back out the way you came or turning your hike into a loop via South Peak. The short jaunt over to South Peak is marked by cairns that will guide you back down to the treeline. The loop adds a minimal amount of mileage and elevation gain but comes with fantastic views of Moosilauke, giving you the opportunity to relish in the glory of the peak you just summited!

After a quick stop at South Peak, the descent of the loop trail brings you down a gentle carriage road, then forks left onto Snapper trail. There are a handful of gentle water crossings, but like the ascent, nothing notably challenging or technically demanding. In the final stretch, you’ll connect with the Gorge Brook trail which heads back to the Ravine Lodge and your vehicle.

The Gorge Brook trailhead is subject to seasonal road closures, as are many roads in the White Mountains in the Fall and Winter. Unless you are an experienced winter hiker, you should consider delaying any plans to hike mountains of significant elevation until Spring.

If you’re just getting started, don’t underestimate mother nature’s power especially up here in the Whites. It’s impossible to list all elements of hiking safety here, but here are a few quick tips:

Carry the ten essentials: navigation, sun protection, insulation, illumination, first aid kit, fire starter, repair kit and tools, extra food, water and emergency shelter.

Check out available resources. The AMC’s Comprehensive White Mountain Guide is a great resource for this region in particular. As a starting point, the AllTrails web and app-based platform is a useful tool for searching and filtering hikes based on location, length, difficulty, etc. Always doublecheck against an official map to confirm routes.

Monitor mountain weather in the days and hours leading up to every hike, especially this time of year. Moosilauke had snow and ice in late September this year! And it is windy at the summit year round. Conditions can change on a dime and often vary substantially from the temperatures at the trailhead. If you have to turn back mid-hike, celebrate a good attempt rather than lamenting an unsuccessful summit.

Always inform someone of your planned route and expected completion time and alert them upon completion once you have cell service to do so.

Consider taking a backcountry skills or hiking preparedness course.

Above all, be safe, go at your own pace, and ENJOY. How lucky we are to have such beauty in our backyards!

Bonnie is a casual hiker on weekends and marketing consultant by day. She lives in Laconia with her boyfriend Daniel and 8-year-old Wheaten Terrier Rory.