The List Eating & Drinking Guide 2016 by List Publishing Ltd

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

EDINBURGH & GLASGOW

EATING & DRINKING Guide Â£5.95

list.co.uk

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CONTRIBUTORS EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Donald Reid CITY EDITORS Jo Laidlaw (Edinburgh), Jay Thundercliffe (Glasgow) EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Paul McLean, Keith Smith, Louise Stoddart COPY EDITORS Jo Laidlaw, Paul McLean, Jay Thundercliffe REVIEWERS EDINBURGH Arts Venues & Attractions Courtney Hyde Peyton, Cat McCabe, Sandy Neil Bars & Pubs Will Bain, Ailidh Forlan, Annie Kelly, Jo Laidlaw, Cat McCabe, Steve Morton, David Pollock, Tracey Reilly, Claire Sawers, Louise Stoddart, Paige Weimer Bistros & Brasseries Tom Bruce-Gardyne, Margaret Craik, Ian Hogg, Courtney Hyde Peyton, Steve Morton, Kirstyn Smith Cafés & Wee Places Jennifer Alford-Thornton, Cat Crawford, Louise Donoghue, Hannah Jefferson, Rachel Kavish, Carol Main, Chris Marks, Carine Seitz Chinese & Far East Jennifer Alford-Thornton, Will Bain, Katie Conaglen Fish Stan Blackley French Claire Ritchie, Justin Tilbury Indian Doug Bond, Courtney Hyde Peyton, Tara Klein, Caroline Rye Italian Rebecca Monks, Julie Morrice Mexican Emma Louise McGettrick, Murray Robertson Round the World Sylvie Docherty, Louise Donoghue, Claire Sawers, Yana Thandrayen Scottish Nick Dunne, Sandy Neil, Colin Renton, Susan Smith, James Teideman Spanish Sylvie Docherty, Louise Donoghue, Yana Thandrayen Steakhouses & Burger Bars Cat Crawford, Elaine Reid Thai Teddy Craig, Courtney Hyde Peyton Takeaway Rob Fletcher, Keith Smith Out of Town Margaret Craik

INTRODUCTION Welcome to The List Eating & Drinking Guide. Again this year, as for each of the last 23 annual editions, we provide our readers with the comprehensive, well-informed and reliably up-to-date guide to the dining scene in Glasgow and Edinburgh – both in print here and online via your smartphone, tablet or desktop at list.co.uk/food. After a successful Year of Food & Drink for Scotland in 2015, there is more focus than ever on what is being served up in the nation’s two biggest cities, with a renewed interest in the quality, variety and accessibility of the country’s produce. One recent trend has resulted in a new section to the guide this year – Steakhouses & Burger Bars. Scotland has long been famed for some of the best beef in the world and many of the restaurants and bars in the guide take considerable care and pride in serving up meat sourced from Scottish farmers and butchers, carrying through to the plate a respect and appreciation of the provenance, handling and quality of the produce. The reviews that make up the listings for the two cities have been freshly researched and written in the ﬁrst three months of 2016. Our 80-strong team of locally based reviewers have been eating out anonymously at nearly 1000 venues across both cities. They are our discerning eyes, ears and palates about town, helping us keep track of the movers and shakers in the ever-evolving and constantly improving eating and drinking scene. You’ll ﬁnd all the notable openings over the last 12 months here (look out for a ’NEW’ logo next to their entry), as well as our latest Hitlists, rigorously and independently assessed highlights of the best places to be found in each section based on our most recent visits. There are Table Talks, too, which this year focuses on the Year of Innovation, Architecture & Design, with insights into the work and philosophy of various individuals working in food and drink who have a particular connection with art and design. The Tiplists throughout the guide will show you where good things are happening in the world of coffee, beer, bargain lunches, takeaway sandwiches and much more – all carefully chosen by our reviewers and editors who’ve been working hard to bring you all the exciting news about dining and drinking in these ever-changing cities. Enjoy.

GLASGOW Arts Venues & Attractions Robbie Armstrong, Kat Borrowdale, Andrea Mullaney, Ellen Renton Bars & Pubs Tiff Grifﬁn (section editor), Gabriella Bennett, Malcolm Jack, Laura Muetzelfeldt, Rowena McIntosh, David McPhee, Kevin Scott, Paul Trainer Bistros & Brasseries Rowan Anderson, Kirsty Bush, Rory McGinley Cafés & Wee Places Jennifer Armitage, Robbie Armstrong, Kat Borrowdale, Laura Campbell, David Kirkwood, Ruth Marsh, Laura Muetzelfeldt, Andrea Mullaney, Ellen Renton Chinese Tiff Grifﬁn, Laura Muetzelfeldt Far East Jane Allan, Andrea Pearson Fish Erica Goodey French Gabriella Bennett Indian Tara Hepburn, Ruth Marsh, Fraser Wilson Italian Sucheta Dutt, Miranda Heggie, Piers Hunt Mexican Andrea Pearson Round the World Emily Henderson, Bronwen Livingstone, Lewis Renton Scottish Martin Cross, Carolyn McTaggart Spanish Malcolm McGonigle Steakhouses & Burger Bars Malcolm Jack, David Kirkwood Out of Town Malcolm Jack PUBLISHERS Robin Hodge, Simon Dessain DIRECTOR, FOOD & DRINK Peter Brown SALES & SPONSORSHIP Sheri Friers (Partnership Director), Brendan Miles, Chris Knox (Media Sales Manager), Rachel Cree, Jessica Rodgers, Jade Regulski, Debbie Thomson DIGITAL Andy Carmichael, Iain McCusker, Sharon Irish, Andy Bowles ACCOUNTS Sarah Reddie DESIGN & LAYOUT Lucy Munro (Senior Designer), Jen Devonshire PRODUCTION Simon Armin

Published by The List Ltd HEAD OFFICE: 14 High Street Edinburgh EH1 1TE Tel: 0131 550 3050 list.co.uk email eat@list.co.uk Extensive efforts have been made to ensure the accuracy of the information in this publication; however, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for any errors it may contain. ©2016 The List Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior permission in writing of The List Ltd. ISSN: 1359-0693 This edition published April 2016. Printed by Acorn Web Offset Ltd, W. Yorkshire

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HOW WE REVIEW

CIRCULATION & DISTRIBUTION Jade Regulski

The List Eating & Drinking Guide values its editorial independence. Unlike other restaurant guides which only cover venues that have paid to be included and where review visits are prearranged and carefully orchestrated, no entry in the Eating & Drinking Guide pays to be included, none is obliged to advertise and none is given sight of its review before publication. Restaurants covered in the guide are chosen on merit and reviewed incognito – to ensure our experience is that of any other diner. Each restaurant is freshly reviewed each year by a different writer from The List’s team. Our reviewers are experienced and knowledgeable, but they’re not professional food inspectors. They’re chosen to reﬂect an informed local diner’s viewpoint, and they are encouraged to express an unbiased and even-handed opinion. No special favours are accorded to the companies that choose to buy display advertising space in the guide – they are treated exactly the same when it comes to their review visit, write-up and Hitlist selections.

Thanks

To all the reviewers, researchers, contributors, photographers, editors and members of The List team who have helped put this year’s guide together. A lot of effort goes on behind the scenes with IT, databases, websites, production, advertising sales, administration and accounts, and each part contributes to the success of the guide. Thanks also to our sponsors Birra Moretti, the Scotch Beef Club, Taste Our Best and the many other supporters of the guide.

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Contents EDINBURGH CITY GUIDE

SECTION

ARTS VENUES & ATTRACTIONS BARS & PUBS

16 19

HITLIST

16 20

BISTROS & BRASSERIES

CAFES

TIPLISTS BREAKFAST

AFTERNOON TEA

OUTDOOR DINING

VEGGIE & VEGAN

GROUPS & PARTIES

LATE DINING

DIETARY REQUIREMENTS

BYOB

SUNDAY LUNCH

CAFES: THE WEE PLACES

CHINESE

FAR EAST FUSION, KOREAN, JAPANESE, MALAYSIAN, VIETNAMESE

FISH

FRENCH

INDIAN

ITALIAN

MEXICAN

SCOTTISH

SPANISH

STEAKHOUSES & BURGER BARS

100

101

THAI

104

105

ROUND THE WORLD

AFRICAN, AMERICAS, EUROPEAN, GREEK, MEDITERRANEAN, MIDDLE EASTERN, MONGOLIAN, POLISH, TURKISH

BRUNCH

GOOD PRE-THEATRE DEALS

COCKTAILS

WHISKY

BEER

ICE-CREAM

TAKING THE DOG

COFFEE

SENSE OF PLACE

BUDGET DINING

PIZZA

WINE BY THE GLASS

MEATINESS

TEA AND CAKE GOOD LUNCH DEALS

92 104

TABLE Talks WILL MCEVOY ED MURRAY JACO JUSTICE CHRIS RUTTERFORD

26 60 72 96

11 BRUNTSFIELD PLACE, EDINBURGH, EH10 4HN

2 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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INTRODUCING THE GUIDE

HOW TO USE THE GUIDE

EATING & DRINKING GUIDE AWARDS 2016

6–7

MAPS

176–189

INDEX

190–192

TIPLISTS GLASGOW CITY GUIDE

106

SENSE OF PLACE

107

NEIGHBOURHOOD DINING 107

ARTS VENUES & ATTRACTIONS BARS & PUBS

SECTION

HITLIST

114

115

117

BISTROS & BRASSERIES

130

CAFES

135

118 131 135

CAFES: THE WEE PLACES

142

143

CHINESE

144

145

FAR EAST FUSION, KOREAN, JAPANESE, MALAYSIAN, THAI, VIETNAMESE

146

FISH

149

FRENCH

151

INDIAN

152

ITALIAN

156

MEXICAN ROUND THE WORLD

AFRICAN, AMERICAS, CARIBBEAN, GREEK, MEDITERRANEAN, MIDDLE EASTERN, MONGOLIAN, POLISH, TURKISH

SCOTTISH

153 157

161

162

166

SPANISH

171

STEAKHOUSES & BURGER BARS

173

DIETARY REQUIREMENTS

107

WINES BY THE GLASS

107

OUTDOOR DINING

108

BUDGET DINING

108

PRE-THEATRE

108

LIVE MUSIC

108

LATE DINING

108

ROMANTIC MEAL

108

TEA & CAKES

116

TAKING THE DOG

121

STEAKS

129

COCKTAILS

132

BREAKFAST & BRUNCH

136

GOOD LUNCH DEALS

139

SNACKS ON THE GO

142

BURGERS

146

KIDS & FAMILIES

148

PIZZAS

154

COFFEE

159

BEER

165

WHISKY & GIN

168

GROUPS AND PARTIES

171

VEGGIE & VEGAN

175

TABLE Talks SARAH J STANLEY JIM HAMILTON CLEM SANDISON ROB LATIMER

122 140 160 174

WINE & BEER 0141 332 4481

The Good Spirits Company bringing Glasgow’s city centre a new independent wine and beer shop. With a specially selected range of wines old and new, and a now wider variety of craft beers and ciders. The List Eating & Drinking Guide 3

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HOW TO USE The Guide

Establishments are grouped ﬁrst by city, then by section (Cafés, Indian, Scottish etc), then listed alphabetically. The information contained in each entry is explained below.

Name of establishment: The coloured asterisk indicates a Hitlist recommendation – our pick of the best in each section. ‘NEW’ indicates venues that have opened in the last year. Telephone number for bookings or enquiries, and website. No Kids: This indicates establishments where children are not allowed. NOTE: all venues licensed to serve alcohol are required by law to specify when and where children are permitted while alcohol is being served. By and large children under 18 are not permitted after about 8pm but the specific times and age groups vary slightly between premises by an hour or two. Most restaurants permit older children to dine with adults. If in doubt you should call the venue in advance.

The review: Our general description and independent overview of the establishment’s setting, background, ambience, décor and style of cuisine, including details about specific dishes, fixed-price meals and other relevant information. Plus/minus points: These symbols indicate our reviewer’s assessment of the high point and low point of their visit or the restaurant in general.

Address of establishment: This includes street address and city district. If there are several branches in the same city, these are normally listed together in one entry. Accredited Taste Our Best venue.

✱ NEW The Glutton 55 Raresteak Street, East End (Map 6: E4, 51) 0141 666 1111, glutton.co.uk | Closed Mon | No Kids | £12 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Deservedly popular, the Glutton has built up a loyal following over the past ten years. Set menus, decent choice, friendly, efficient service and BYOB – it’s all you really need in an informal restaurant. The staples are all here: seafood, red and white meat and vegetarian options. But what marks the Glutton out is the interesting use of sauces and accompaniments. So with your salmon, you might get couscous and an orange caramel butter sauce; a black pudding starter comes with toasted walnuts and a chilli dressing. + Unfailingly friendly service - Desserts a bit of an anti-climax

Indicates membership of the Scotch Beef Club. Map reference: This refers to the restaurant’s location (map number followed by grid reference and point number) on one of the district maps to each city found on pages 176–189. Days closed indicates entire days an establishment is not open for business. Meal prices: Where an establishment serves lunch and dinner, the average prices of a standard two-course meal for one from an à la carte menu are given, as calculated by our reviewers. If only set-price evening meals are offered, this is indicated. In the first instance, we’ve quoted the cost of a fixed price two-course lunch for one. Otherwise, we’ve given the average price of a two-course lunch from an à la carte menu. Drinks are not included in price calculations.

For full details on each establishment listed in the guide, including food served times, child facilities, WiFi access, set menus and social media links as well as individual locator maps and various search functions, go to food.list.co.uk

4 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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Are you passionate about your beef?

If so…you need a Scotch Beef Club restaurant Scotch Beef PGI can be traced back to the farm of birth in Scotland. Our strict ‘whole life’ standards must be met for products to qualify for Scotch Beef status. This means Scotch Beef PGI comes with full traceability and guaranteed levels of assurance.

Look out for the member restaurants throughout this guide wherever you see this symbol:

You can order Scotch Beef at one of our 325 Scotch Beef Club member restaurants, which include many of the most sought after restaurants in the UK.

To ﬁnd out more about Scotch Beef or to ﬁnd a Beef Club restaurant in your area, visit:

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In association with

EATING & DRINKING

AWARDS 2016

NEWCOMERS OF THE YEAR EDINBURGH

GLASGOW

EDINBURGH FOOD STUDIO

EUSEBI DELI

PHOTO: ANGUS BEHM

FOR DEEP ENGAGEMENT WITH OUR FOOD AND OUR FOOD CULTURE

FOR BRINGING HERITAGE, PASSION AND DEDICATION TO ITALIAN DINING

Sometimes something comes along which changes the game. The Edinburgh Food Studio isn’t a restaurant – although its founders Sashana Souza Zanella and Ben Reade can regularly be found cooking up a storm in the form of a fixed-price, fixedchoice menu showcasing their committed approach to sourcing. It’s an idea: a space for sharing, cooking, learning and eating. With meals every weekend, regular guest slots, tastings and events, as well as ongoing research into traditional cooking, the place fairly hums with enthusiasm for great food, great eating and great times. ■ See page 92

To describe someone whose family has been serving Glaswegians with delicious Italian food for three generations as a newcomer seems somewhat odd. But while Italian deli proprietor Giovanna Eusebi may be able to create perfect light and crispy pinza dough in her sleep, it has taken her eight years to make her West End restaurant a reality. But of course, this is the Italian way – take your time, get it right, the wait will make it all the more satisfying. In just a few short months, Eusebi has become one of the city’s liveliest and most joyful places to while away the hours, sharing in the love of good food. ■ See page 158

EL CARTEL CASERA MEXICANA

111 BY NICO

FOR ITS ENERGY, ENTHUSIASM AND SHEER GOOD FUN

FOR INVENTIVE AND AFFORDABLE FINE DINING WITH A SOCIAL CONSCIENCE

Originally opened back in November 2014, a fire put paid to El Cartel’s initial plans to take the city by storm. But like a dark, sexy, vibrant phoenix, they’ve risen from the ashes. Their re-invention of Mexican street food for Edinburgh’s Thistle Street sees fresh, punchy, and spicy hand-pressed tacos and antojitos served up to a soundtrack of pumping hip hop in a darkly glamorous Day of the Dead den. Subtle it isn’t, fabulous it most certainly is. As El Cartel themselves would say, ‘long live tacos, tequila and hip hop’ – we can’t help but agree. ■ See page 83

Kelvindale, in Glasgow’s West End fringes, may not be the obvious destination for exciting dining, but Nico Simeone has stamped his name there in recent years. First with La Famiglia, which became Simply Fish, and now with 111 by Nico, Simeone has demonstrated an accomplished hand as a young chef-proprietor. His latest venture blends high-end dining with an academy element, helping disadvantaged youngsters such as Modou, a Senegalese migrant who quickly went from kitchen porter to visible talent in the open kitchen, dish up exciting, inventive food at incredibly keen prices. ■ See page 133

6 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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The List’s annual Eating & Drinking Guide Awards highlight some of the best dining-out experiences in Glasgow and Edinburgh. Our Newcomer of the Year Awards are selected from restaurants opening in Edinburgh and Glasgow over the past 12 months. The winners are chosen by our experienced team of reviewers and editors for the promise, innovation and quality they bring to the local eating-out scene. Our goal is to recognise not only the eye-catching and glamorous new arrivals but also to highlight more affordable places and, especially, those offering something genuinely new, inspiring and original to the dining experience. The New Bar Awards recognise the cities’ hottest new drinking spots, highlighting them for their focus on good food and drinks, welcoming atmosphere and contribution to their neighbourhood. Our judges’ Special Award, meanwhile, recognises the outstanding contribution of an establishment, enterprise, individual or family to the food and drink world in Scotland.

NEW BAR AWARD EDINBURGH

GLASGOW

SMITH & GERTRUDE

SIX°NORTH

FOR ITS RE-INVENTION OF THE WINE BAR

FOR BLENDING BELGIAN TECHNIQUES AND TASTES WITH SCOTTISH BREWING

This Stockbridge wine bar has breathed much-needed new life into a concept sometimes stuck in the chardonnay-loaded 1980s. Offering an understated, stylish update to one of life’s great pairings – cheese and wine, their carefully curated wine list is presented by knowledgeable and approachable staff who really know one end of a varietal from another. Simple sharing boards complement what’s in the glass, and it’s this straightforward, pared-back approach to everything they do that helps this contemporary little wine bar punch well above its weight. ■ See page 33

Expanding out from their brewery base in Stonehaven, Aberdeenshire, six°north have brought their dedicated brand of Scottish-brewed Belgian beer and Flemish cuisine to Glasgow’s Partick neighbourhood. Named after the fact they are based on a latitude six degrees north of Brussels, it’s clear where their inspiration comes from, and with 30 taps showcasing their wares and other Scottish beers, fridges full of interesting offerings and small plates of enticing food, their new bier halle looks set to have Glaswegians enjoying the flavours of Belgique. ■ See page 126

MALCOLM INNES

al i c e Sp RD

AWA

Outsider by name, outsider by nature? Certainly Malcolm Innes doesn’t seek to court the media or develop a personal brand, preferring to let his ventures express his stylish, progressive and creative approach. And talk they do. Displaying an uncanny ability to give the Edinburgh dining public what they want before they even know they want it, his journey has encompassed the groundbreaking arrival of the Apartment in 1999, the creation of an Edinburgh institution in the Outsider and an adventurous Thai street food concept in Ting Thai Caravan. His new venture, pub-cum-pizza joint WildManWood Pizza, due to open imminently in the precincts of

Edinburgh University, has seen him installing a custombuilt wood-fired pizza oven from Italy and sending his staff on a month-long training course at the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana. Yet despite this sometimes obsessive attention to detail, he has always insisted that the food served in his restaurants is of good quality, exciting and keenly priced. The quirky wine lists, the fashionable fittings, the frisson of controversial decisions, the ambitious plans that never quite came to pass: they’re part and parcel of his determinedly individual approach. Innes has strived to ensure that his part of Edinburgh’s restaurant scene is cultured, forward-thinking and influential; talked-about, gossipped-about and unpredictable. Eating out in Edinburgh would be duller without him. ■ See pages 43, 82 & 105

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 7

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Edinburgh THE FESTIVAL CITY

ith everything from third-wave coffee counters to fine-dining tasting menus (and their associated Michelin stars), Edinburgh is firmly established as the UK’s second great dining city, after London. Each year, the standard gets higher, as chefs, restaurateurs, mixologists and pop-up personalities put their mark on the city, growing their reputations locally, nationally and abroad. Good eating and drinking has become part of the city’s cultural fabric: part of the festival experience, the tourist and daytrippers’ visit, the residents’ routine. The Edinburgh section of this guide covers everywhere from converted police boxes in public parks to the most sumptuous eating experiences. With almost 100 new openings this year – an average of two a week – it’s clear the desire remains strong to experiment, innovate and, above all, strive to create great experiences for eating out. This is coupled with a strong connection to Scotland’s larder and natural produce, as shown by the growing number of restaurants offering fixed, daily-changing tasting menus based on hyper-local, hyper-seasonal produce. And while, at first glance, the surge of the burger may seem to provide a balancing counterpoint to this trend, it’s worth noting that, here too, discerning diners can find careful sourcing and strong ties to the land.

Yet it’s true that we’re still drawn to trotting the globe in search of attractive flavours and inspiring approaches to food. Edinburgh has a long history of providing Indian, French, Italian and Mexican food, but these days you can find cafés, restaurants and takeaways serving Portuguese, Brazilian, Malaysian, Russian and Korean food, to name just some of the options, many of which also bring a cultural connection in the form of art, music and traditional events linked to their country of origin. It’s also worth noting that vegetarian and vegan dining options have never been better; perhaps it’s no coincidence that we’re also witnessing a rise in ethical and conscience-driven approaches to food and drink. These include venues supporting a charity or directly providing training opportunities, local food collectives and a handful of community-led shops and pubs springing up in the city’s suburbs. Meanwhile, out on the streets, farmers’ markets, street food festivals and pop-ups continue to build a more personal connection to what’s on our plates – it’s clear diners and drinkers want to talk to producers, engage with chefs, pick up tips from bartenders, and tap into the energy and spontaneity of more informal food encounters. It’s fitting that, post Scotland’s year of Food and Drink, this adventure continues.

8 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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TIPLISTS The Eating & Drinking Guide team’s recommendations

FOR BREAKFAST • The Bluebird Café Pocketsized neighbourhood café offering coffee and pancakes, pulled pork and meatloaf. 49 • The Blue Bear Superlative Canonmills all-rounder serving up the best in breakfast, brunch and much more. 49 • The Caffeine Drip South African coffee house dishing up authentic, freshly made food in the heart of the West End. 50 • Loudon’s Café & Bakery Loudons is great spot to watch the world go by over a leisurely brunch. 55 • Maxi’s A local café in the heart of Stockbridge cooking good quality Scottish produce, and doing it well. 55

OVER 570 EDIN RESTAUBRURGH CAFES AANNTS, BARS D

• Valvona & Crolla Caffè Bar The ﬁnest fresh ingredients create a deliciously broad menu of bold Italian ﬂavours. 59

Loudon’s Café & Bakery

FOR AFTERNOON TEA

FOR OUTDOOR DINING

• Café at the Palace Impeccably tasteful lunches and afternoon teas, royally stamped by Her Majesty’s marketing department. 16

• Mimi’s Bakehouse Naughtybut-nice family café whips up spectacular cakes, served with a touch of 1950s glamour. 55

• Akva Edinburgh Swedish chain’s biggest venture yet gets everything right with good food, drink and family friendliness. 19

• Casa Angelina Small tearoom with a big character, serving delicious homemade breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea. 60

• Palm Court Afternoon tea comes with a ﬁtting sense of occasion and expected ﬁnesse at one of Edinburgh’s grandest hotels. 56

• The Cumberland Bar Traditional Victorian pub with an excellent leafy beer garden, in the city’s elegant New Town. 25

• Colonnades Opulent lunch or afternoon tea in the stunning Advocates Library; elegant, delicious and excellent value. 18

• The Printing Press Bar & Kitchen Classy George Street venue with a commendable focus on good food and good times. 43

• The Espy Casual, friendly, family-oriented beachside bar/ restaurant with a tiki theme and views of Portobello beach. 26 • Petit Paris Excellent classic dishes at this diminutive French bistro, with prime outdoor seating for sunny days. 73

The Printing Press Bar & Kitchen

• The Royal Dick Bar and Bistro Bistro staples, great beer and gin produced on site, plus tables in the courtyard. 44 • Teuchters Landing Waterfront pub doing Scotland-sourced food and drink, and an excellent whisky selection, too. 35

FOR VEGGIE/VEGAN • The Auld Hoose Traditional beerfocused pub with legendary jukebox, equally famous nachos and plenty of veggie choices. 20

• Moon and Hare The ﬂavours fairly pop from salads, wraps, cakes and smoothies in this peppy new Bruntsﬁeld café. 55

• Restaurant Martin Wishart Now entering its 17th year, this Michelinstarred hotspot is an institution on the Edinburgh ﬁne dining scene. 73

• The Baked Potato Shop With regular queues out the door, this vegan fast food joint has been ﬁlling tatties and tums since 1983. 59

• Paradise Palms Good-time cocktail lounge-vibe in the heart of student land, where vegetarian soul food has spirit, as do the drinks. 31

• Tanjore Delicious South Indian food and good-value dishes, including vegan and gluten-free options, in a café-style setting. 76

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 9

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FOR GROUPS AND PARTIES

FOR LATE DINING

• Café Tartine Adaptable French café and creperie in Leith that transforms into a romantic dinner location. 72

• Jambo Grill and Restaurant Delicious dishes and exotic meats from Central Africa, slightly off the main drag but worth the trip. 85

• Nanyang Malaysian Cuisine Terriﬁcally good food at this bustling, colourful Malaysian restaurant in the Quartermile development. 68

• Mintleaf Vibrant Indian and Thai dishes of equally high standard at this intimately lit venue. 74

• Hanam’s City-centre Middle Eastern restaurant offering various menus in a jovial, family-friendly setting. 85

• Mother India’s Café Tapas-style menu of freshly made dishes, perfect for sharing, in a relaxed and informal establishment. 74

• The New York Steam Packet Relaxed, fun venue with a great value three course set-menu and BYOB policy. 102

• No 1 Sushi Bar Reliable, friendly local sushi joint a stone’s throw from the Cameo Cinema and King’s Theatre. 68 • OX184 Big burgers, beer and beats until the wee small hours at this vast two-level Cowgate hotspot. 31

Hanam’s

• Red Squirrel Strong range of craft beers and burgers with slick, speedy service at this Lothian Road bar. 32 • Thai Orchid Just off the Royal Mile, Thai Orchid demonstrates creativity and attention to detail until the early hours. 105 • The Spice Pavillion Basement New Town restaurant, serving North-West Indian frontier-style cuisine. 76 OX184

FOR BYOB • Khushi’s An Edinburgh institution serving interesting and well-executed Indian dishes for nearly 60 years. 74 • Laila’s Bistro Old Town bistro giving an introduction to the tastes of the Mediterranean and the Levant. 86

FOR DIETARY REQUIREMENTS

Locanda de Gusti

• Nawroz Big Kurdish restaurant with a large selection of mezze, specialising in charcoal-grilled meats. 86

• Locanda de Gusti Dedication to the best ingredients give this unassuming Italian restaurant a life-afﬁrming ﬂavour. 79

• Pomegranate Tuck into Middle Eastern mezze-style food and chargrilled meats at this animated city-centre eatery. 86

• Leo and Ted Smart little café serving a range of UK roasted coffees and delicious cakes, minus much of the gluten. 54

• Punjabi Junction Social enterprise community cafe in Leith where authentic Indian food takes centre stage. 76

• Moon and Hare New Bruntsﬁeld café dishes up top food, with a genuine eye to the dietary needs of diners. 55

• Tuk Tuk Indian street food restaurant, with a Bollywood twist to the décor, serving small plates tapas-style. 76

• The Safari Lounge Beer fans and gluten-dodgers should check out this distinctive Abbeyhill watering hole. 33 • Three Birds Restaurant Deservedly popular, Bruntsﬁeld neighbourhood bistro with an inspired, ﬂavoursome menu. 47 • Union of Genius Edinburgh soup café takes locally sourced ingredients to create betterthan-homemade soups. 63

Tuk Tuk

10 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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FOR SUNDAY LUNCH • Café Mal The hotel dining room that doesn’t feel like a hotel dining room – a relaxed, modern Scottish bistro at Malmaison. 38

• Galvin Brasserie de Luxe Making good on the ‘de luxe’ tag with great service and an upscale take on traditional brasserie dining. 40

• The Cumberland In the city’s elegant New Town, enjoy a traditional Sunday lunch at this atmospheric old pub. 25

• The Honours Martin Wishart puts a sophisticated spin on brasserie dining at his stylish New Town eatery. 41

• The Fountain Popular dining pub with a snazzy countenance and decent beers, perfect for a pre or post-movie meal. 26

• The Ox Varied and interesting menu makes this one of the best destination pubs for food in the capital. 31

Crafted by expertise, Perfected by Speyside.

The Honours

FOR BRUNCH • Brandon’s of Canonmills Pot plants, golden cornices, truffle oil fries and Fife fish at this smart gastropub in Canonmills. 23 • Earthy Market Café Causewayside’s original outpost of wellbeing, promoting seasonal, organic and free-range eating. 52 • Montpeliers of Bruntsfield Contemporary-styled bar and bistro at the heart of its neighbourhood, with lots to shout about. 42 • Nobles Café, Bar & Restaurant One of Leith’s best looking pubs, serving good food and full of oldworld charm. 30 • The Scottish Café and Restaurant Scottish ingredients showcased with the Contini empire’s expected class. 97 • Wild Wood Café Marchmont café newcomer with strong breakfast and brunch choices and an appealing dinner menu. 48

The Scottish Café and Restaurant

“THE GLEN MORAY PORT CASK FINISH

These further Tiplists can be found elsewhere in the guide: Good Pre-Theatre Deals Cocktails Whisky Beer Ice-Cream Taking the Dog Coffee Sense of Place

18 23 26 32 42 50 57 62

Budget Dining

Pizza

Wine by the Glass

Meatiness

Tea and Cake Good Lunch Deal

brings the Master Distiller’s expertise to the fore. Graham Coull sourced the ﬁnest aged Port casks to bring out the very best in his American oak cask matured Glen Moray. The traditional Glen Moray characteristics of ripe fruit and creamy vanilla merge perfectly with the sweet oaky Port wine to deliver a whisky which is subtle and incredibly smooth.”

104

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Edinburgh Food & Drink Events The Whisky Stramash

28–29 MAY THE WHISKY STRAMASH Surgeon’s Hall, thewhiskystramash.com Returning for the ﬁfth year, The Whisky Stramash offers you a chance to sample whiskies from Scotland and across the world in new and innovative ways. 27–29 MAY THE MHOR FESTIVAL Monachyle Mhor, Lochearnhead, mhor.net Lots of activities for kids and adults alike at this Trossachs festival, including The Great Scottish Feast. 10–12 JUN THE WHISKY STRAMASH Edinburgh Juniper Festival, summerhall.co.uk Celebrating World Gin Day, the third year of the Juniper Festival welcomes producers serving up samples of 30 their top products in range of ways. 10–12 JUN CRAIL FOOD FESTIVAL

crailfoodfest.co.uk Food and music meet at this Fife seaside festival with a producers’ market, cookery demonstrations and evening suppers to enjoy. 18–19 JUN POWER OF FOOD FESTIVAL poweroffoodfestival. wordpress.com A festival hosted by community food gardens across Edinburgh. 23–26 JUN ROYAL HIGHLAND SHOW Ingliston, royalhighlandshow. org One of the biggest multi-day events in Scotland, the show is part food festival, part family fun day out. 1–3 JUL SCOTTISH GAME FAIR Scone Palace, Perth, scottishfair.com Three days of falconry, gun dogs, pipe bands, cookery demonstrations, shooting and a myriad of traders and stalls.

7–9JUL SCOTTISH REAL ALE FESTIVAL Corn Exchange, Edinburgh sraf.camra.org.uk Celebrate the hoppy, malty, tasty world of Scottish brewing with over 170 Scottish beers, traditional ciders and perries. 27–31 JUL THE EDINBURGH FOOD FESTIVAL George Square, edfoodfest. com Producers, street food and picnics mix with discussions, demos and debates in the George Square Assembly site for the week before the Fringe. 5–7 AUG FOODIES FESTIVAL Inverleith Park, Edinburgh foodiesfestival.com Michelin-starred and awardwinning chefs cook up a storm at this year’s festival dedicated to epicureans, as well as offerings from local producers and workshops for food lovers young and old.

STREET FOOD, POP UPS & TAKEOVERS THE BIG BLU thebigblu.co.uk/the-van Look out for the Big Blu Pizza van at Dunbar harbour every Tuesday and Thursday and at Tantallon Caravan Park in North Berwick every Wednesday evening. They pop up at a range of events round town too, with their wood-fired pizzas. BUCK AND BIRCH buckandbirch.com Buck and Birch offer ‘occasional dining experiences’ in locations around Edinburgh. Expect a classy sitdown meal, often accompanied by their own drinks, perhaps in collaboration with a local forager. FLAT OUT FOOD flatoutfood.com Regulars around Edinburgh’s farmers’ markets, Belle (that’s the vintage Citroen van) and her owners focus on filling homemade flatbreads with meatballs and veggie balls, topped with salad, sauce and cheese. FOUNTAINBRIDGE STREET FOOD FRIDAYS facebook.com/StreetFoodFridays Spring 2016 will see the launch of Street Food Fridays, weekly events where the Fountainbridge canal basin (behind Akva) will come alive with street food vendors from 11am–7pm.

JONES & SON facebook.com/BespokeBbq A recent takeover at the now-defunct Blackfriars saw the BBQ specialists perfecting their game. With their chilli jam now available at selected outlets, a more permanent presence is hopefully on the horizon. THE PITT facebook.com/pittstmarket The Pitt’s loose collective sees around ten food and drink trucks descending on a quiet back-street car valeting yard in Leith every month. Expect a constantly changing lineup, live music, big crowds and a few firepits thrown into the mix, too. SCOFF FOODS facebook.com/Scoff.Foods Scoff are doing their bit to re-invent Scottish staples for the 21st century. They’re particularly successful when it comes to their tattie scone wrap, which can be filled with the likes of Cullen skink or black pudding and gravy. SHRIMPWRECK facebook.com/shrimpwreck Shrimp buns, fish tacos and sweet potato fries? Yes please. Put fishy on your dishy with ShrimpWreck – you’ll find them in Waverley Station every Friday

Jones & Son

f from 11am–7pm att Waverley l Market, k t jjustt nextt tto platform 2 behind the ticket ofﬁce. SKYLARK STREET FOOD KITCHEN TAKEOVER theskylarkportobello.com The Skylark’s chefs are guaranteed at least one Sunday night off a month, when this cute wee Porty pub turns over its kitchen to a rotating cast of street food players. See Facebook for updates. SUSIE’S WHOLEFOOD WAGON facebook.com/susieswholefood The demise of West Nicolson Street’s Susie’s Diner left a hole in many folks’ lives. But you can now stock up on her brand of veggie, wholefood goodness from Susie’s Wholefood Wagon, based in George Square.

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2tickets for 1 with showguides quote list241

chefs

tasting

SHOPPING

street food

Edinburgh Farmers’ Market

FARMERS’ & FOOD MARKETS • Balerno Farmers’ Market Balerno Main Street and Ogston Hall, balernovt.org.uk 9am–1pm, second Saturday of the month • Edinburgh Farmers’ Market Castle Terrace, edinburghfarmersmarket.co.uk 9am–2pm, every Saturday • Grassmarket Weekly Market Grassmarket, stockbridgemarket.com/grassmarket 10am–5pm, every Saturday • Juniper Green Community Market Lanark Road, junipergreencc.org.uk 9am–1pm, fourth Saturday of the month

with top chefs

edinburgh inverleith park

5-7 august

• Leith Market Dock Place, stockbridgemarket.com/leith 10am–5pm, every Saturday • Morningside Farmers’ Market The Merlin, Morningside Road, morningsidefarmersmarket.co.uk 9.30am—3.30pm, third Saturday of the month • Portobello Market Brighton Park, pedal-porty.org.uk/food/portobello-market 9.30am–1.30pm, ﬁrst Saturday of the month • Stockbridge Market Saunders Street, stockbridgemarket.com 10am–5pm, every Sunday

foodiesfestival.com

0844 995 1111

• The Tram Stop Market outside St Mary’s Cathedral, edinburghmarkets.co.uk 9am–4pm, every Saturday

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OUT OF TOWN A selection of the best places to eat around Edinburgh ARCHERFIELD WALLED GARDEN

DUCKS AT KILSPINDIE HOUSE

Archerfield Estate, Dirleton, archerfieldwalledgarden.com Families could easily spend the best part of a day at Archerfield. There’s a quality café, onsite brewery, deli, gift shop, a big wooden play area, walking trails and lots of room to roam around. But if that all sounds a bit too energetic, there’s also a roaring log fire in the bar and plenty of comfy sofas too.

Kilspindie House, Main Street, Aberlady, ducks.co.uk This family-run restaurant with rooms incorporates a popular café as well as a fine dining restaurant in pretty little Aberlady. It’s an ideal stop-off on the way to the sea or after a day’s golfing, or for a more formal dinner where you can expect classical French techniques married with fine East Lothian produce

THE ANCRUM CROSS KEYS

EDINBURGH LARDER AT WHITMUIR THE ORGANIC PLACE

Ancrum, Jedburgh, ancrumcrosskeys.com The beer garden is a big part of this traditional village pub’s draw. Perched on the banks of the Ale Water in the heart of the Borders, it’s a great spot for enjoying a pint from the nearby Born in the Borders Brewery and some classic pub grub.

Whitmuir Farm, La Mancha, West Linton, whitmuirtheorganicplace.co.uk Organic farm, butchery, shop and deli, with a café which is now run by the Edinburgh Larder group. Expect creative use of the farm’s produce, great home-baking, plus monthly dinners and events.

HERRINGBONE

BORN IN THE BORDERS Lanton Mill, Jedburgh, bornintheborders.com An assured café (with a dinner service at weekends), Born in the Borders showcases great local produce with assured and contemporary cooking. Thanks to the new Borders railway and a deal with an enterprising local taxi ﬁrm, you can make the whole trip by public transport — so you can enjoy the fruits of their own brewery too.

1-3 Westgate, North Berwick, theherringbone.co.uk Eating and drinking in North Berwick is on the up. Bright and beachy Herringbone does a nifty job of being a lot of things to a lot of people – it’s open all day, so whether it’s coffee, lunch, dinner or a warming drink after a day on the beach, you’ll ﬁnd something on the menu to suit.

THE SUN INN Lothian Bridge, Dalkeith, thesuninnedinburgh.co.uk Polished and creative, this former coaching inn does a great line in Sunday roasts with all the trimmings. Beer from Stewart Brewing means you’ll enjoy a quality pint too.

CHEZ ROUX Greywalls Hotel, Muirﬁeld, Gullane, greywalls.co.uk Classic dining in a classic country house hotel. Start your evening with a drink in the library, end it cuddled up with coffee sitting on a deep, comfy sofa. The menu is overseen by Albert Roux, and it’s all delivered in a chocolate-box, Sir Edwin Lutyens-designed hotel. Solid luxury and cooking.

• Deliveroo • deliveroo.co.uk With online and app-based ordering, Deliveroo deliver from dozens of local restaurants – both chains and independents – with an average delivery time of 30–40 minutes.

• Desi Pakwan • 61 Leith Walk, desipakwanonline.com With the chance to watch Punjabi classics being conjured up on the open kitchen’s charcoal grill, it almost seems a shame to have your food delivered.

• Dough • 172 Rose Street, dough-pizza.co.uk New kid on the pizza takeaway block making a big impression with its wood-ﬁred pizzas and slick takeaway options.

• Ichiban • 34 West Preston Street, Causewayside, ichibanedinburgh.co.uk A host of tasty sashimi and freshly rolled sushi options, with plenty of Chinese favourites too for the less adventurous.

• Origano • 277 Leith Walk, origano-leith.co.uk Considered topping combinations and quality ingredients make for great eating and a strong claim for the title of best pizza in town.

• Slumdog • 38–39 Elm Row, Leith Walk, slumdogdelivered.com The slickest subcontinental in town has raised the takeway bar, with specials and street food ably supporting the offerings from the charcoal tandoor.

• Spoilt for Choice • 19 Marionville Road, Meadowbank, spoiltforchoicetakeaway.co.uk Big soulful ﬂavours and a menu of intriguing and unusual dishes means this Afro-Caribbean joint more than lives up to its name.

• The Tailend • 14–15 Albert Place, Leith Walk, tailendedinburgh.co.uk Rightly renowned for its selection of species, the Tailend is also a dab hand at a classic haddock supper.

Farewell to... Places that have closed in the past year

CRAIGIES FARM SHOP West Craigie Farm, South Queensferry, craigies.co.uk A lovely wee farm shop with busy café and play area for the kids year-round, Craigies really comes into its own in the summer months with the fruit-picking season. After picking (and eating) your own bodyweight in strawberries, rasps and goosegogs, there’s even a wee tractor to help you get back up the hill.

TAKEAWAY & DELIVERY

THE WEE RESTAURANT 17 Main Street, North Queensferry, theweerestaurant.co.uk Getting to the Wee Restaurant is part of the experience – take the train over the Forth Bridge, then wander down the cobbled streets to the village. Expect seasonal menus and conﬁdent cooking from a team who’ve been part of the community for the past ten years.

THE BAKEHOUSE CO. BISTRO MODERNE BLACKFRIARS THE BRAZILIAN SENSATION CELADON THE CRAFTERS BARN CREDO CROSS & CORNER FLEUR DE SEL GORGIE CITY FARM CAFÉ HENDERSONS @ ST JOHN’S MEADOWBERRY

NEW SAFFRANI PIERRE VICTOIRE THE PURPLE PIG CAFÉ THE RIPARIAN ROOMS SLIGHHOUSE STAC POLLY BISTRO SURUCHI SWEET MELINDAS TEMPUS TH’EATERY TOAST WILDEST DRAMS

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Food Shops A selection of the best places to buy good food and drink

looking for fresh ideas.

Earthy Market Stores

BAKERY ANDANTE 352 Morningside Road, bakeryandante.co.uk Artisanal bakers – no additives or artificial improvers here – with a great line in sourdough. Often to be found at the Edinburgh Farmers’ Market on a Saturday.

IJ MELLIS CHEESEMONGER • 30a Victoria Street • 330 Morningside Road • 6 Bakers Place, Stockbridge mellischeese.net Treasure-trove of well-sourced European fromage, from mild to stinky with everything in-between.

CRANACHAN AND CROWDIE 263 Canongate, Old Town, cranachanandcrowdie.com The heart-of-tartan location belies a genuine desire to stock diverse, good-quality, artisan Scottish food treats and gifts.

REAL FOODS • 37 Broughton Street • 8 Brougham Street realfoods.co.uk Veggie, vegan, gluten-free, Fairtrade – whatever your dietary requirements, you’ll ﬁnd ethical choices to suit here.

EARTHY MARKET STORES • 33–41 Ratcliffe Terrace • 1–6 Canonmills Bridge • 19 Windsor Place, Portobello earthy.co.uk Like a mini-chain of farm shops in the city, Earthy’s three stores provide a wealth of local, seasonal and organic food.

VALVONA & CROLLA 19 Elm Row, Leith Walk, valvonacrolla.co.uk A landmark Edinburgh deli, this historic Italian/Scottish store is piled high with delicious fresh and speciality food, excellent Italian wine and tasty gifts.

EDDIE’S SEAFOOD MARKET & FISHMONGER 7 Roseneath Street, Marchmont, eddiesseafood.co.uk Where Edinburgh’s sushi chefs buy their produce – but get there early for the pick of the catch.

THE WEE BOULANGERIE 67 Clerk Street, theweeboulangerie.co.uk French bakery in the heart of the Southside — everything from baguettes to buns, all made freshly each day with love.

GEORGE BOWER BUTCHERS 75 Raeburn Place, Stockbridge, georgebowerbutchers.co.uk Traditional butchers where you can pick up haggis, sausages and Scottish game as well as excellent steak pies.

WOODWINTERS 91 Newington Road, woodwinters.com One of a new breed of independent off-licences, WoodWinters specialises in wine and whisky with frequent tastings too.

Look out for the Taste Our Best logo throughout this guide, proudly displayed as a sign that great quality Scottish produce is on the menu, prepared with care and delivered with passion. From restaurants, B&B’s and hotels to visitor attractions, cafés and takeaways, you can sample famous fare made with the freshest, Scottish produce. Choose from hundreds of accredited outlets at visitscotland.com/tasteourbest

Arbroath smokies, Auchmithie

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ARTS VENUES & ATTRACTIONS

list.co.uk

EDINBURGH

ARTS VENUES & ATTRACTIONS There’s been something of a quiet revolution in the eating places attached to Edinburgh’s arts venues. The days of the over-priced scone and wee metal teapot-for-one that dribbles all over the tablecloth are long gone – now, whether you’re visiting a small workshop or one of the city’s biggest attractions, you can expect to be served sustenance that’s worthy of a visit in its own right. Scotland’s larder is one of her biggest treasures; it’s fitting then that so many arts-based eateries around the city choose to feature the best of local produce on their menus, whether that’s a simple soup or a simply sumptuous afternoon tea. Reviewers: Courtney Hyde Peyton, Cat McCabe, Sandy Neil

✱ Bon Papillon 15 Howe Street, Stockbridge (Map 1A: C3, 35a) 0131 538 2505, bonpapillon.com | Closed Mon/Tue | £9 (lunch)

Bon Papillon is like visiting the home of an artist who makes really good cakes, and in a sense it is, with owner Ingrid Nilsson’s studio at the back of the café and her partner Stuart Allan baking inhouse. The walls are covered with the work of local artists and even the toilet boasts a ‘petit gallerie’. The scones and cakes are a real treat – light and full of flavour – and the sandwiches are truly tasty. The chèvre chaud – baked goat’s cheese on garlic toast with a well-dressed side salad – is more than you might expect from a small café and the service has the personal touch you’d hope for. Ingrid and Stuart are happy to oblige the demands of their dedicated local following, putting bacon rolls on the menu despite being vegetarians themselves, and regularly reinstating local favourites when regulars call for them after a menu change. + Top-quality baking

- Such good sandwiches would go well

with a wine or beer

Cafe Hub Castlehill, Royal Mile, Old Town See Cafés

Café Modern One Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art One, 75 Belford Road, West End (Map 4: A2, off) 0131 332 8600, heritageportfolio. co.uk | £8 (lunch)

Nestled underneath the striking National Gallery of Modern Art, Café Modern One stands very much on its own two feet. Art aficionados are, no doubt, delighted to find an above average café in which to recharge between bouts of appreciation, but Modern One also attracts a large local following. Ladies lounge over leisurely lunches and families gather over bakes and buggies. The space is plain, leaving the visual attractions to the garden and gallery, while the focus is on the food. Dishes change daily and include herbs and vegetables from the café’s own garden. Salads are particularly good, combining the likes of roast parsnip and carrot, honey, feta, plums and toasted sesame seeds, and there are always plenty of vegetarian and gluten-free options. The cakes, staples of any café, are plentiful and tempting – look out for the moist and well-balanced Guinness cake. + Fresh, flavoursome food - Busy times (particularly weekends) mean queues

Café Modern Two Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art Two, 73 Belford Road, West End (Map 4: A2, off) 0131 624 6273, heritageportfolio. co.uk | £12 (set lunch)

‘There will be no miracles here’ states the neon entry to Modern Two, one of two parts of the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art. In the café, diners sit among surrealist paintings at the foot of Sir Eduardo Paolozzi’s 7-metre tall Vulcan, with bronze Cleish Castle ceiling panels overhead. Soups, sandwiches, salads and specials change daily, weekly or monthly, but customer favourites, such as a healthconscious Cullen skink, cheese, mustard and herb scones, and hearty toasted brioche croque-monsieur and madame, stay on the menu. Everything is proudly made from scratch in a cupboard-sized ‘scratch kitchen’ using seasonal, Scottish

ingredients – including vegetables and herbs grown across the road in Modern One’s garden. Tea, coffee and cakes, such as Belgian salted caramel brownie and gluten and dairy-free orange, polenta and rosemary cake, are served from 10am. Lunch service starts at noon and there’s also an elegant afternoon tea service from 2.30pm. + A classy brioche croque-monsieur - Bread could be fresher

✱ Café Portrait Scottish National Portrait Gallery, 1 Queen Street, New Town (Map 1B: A5, 63) 0131 624 6421, heritageportfolio.co.uk | £7.25 (set lunch)

Such is the demand for Café Portrait’s pretty sweet treats that, at time of going to press, the gallery gift shop is being ousted to accommodate a new coffee station and more seating. Counter service is friendly and efficient; you’re back to your table before you have a chance to think ‘canteen’ and even among the great and good looking down from the surrounding walls, the food takes centre stage. Arched gothic windows and high ceilings create a light, bright atmosphere to enjoy a hearty sweet potato and chilli soup, or a healthy summer salad of courgette, feta, pea and mint with rocket-lemon dressing. The daily selection of soups, salads, sandwiches and mains (made in-house) are wholesome and imaginative, while afternoon tea involves indulging in the likes of well-balanced spiced berry scones, passion fruit éclairs and bold salted caramel brownies – making climbing the gallery stairs afterwards a bit of a challenge. + Classic sweets with a twist - No guarantee of a table at busy times

Café at the Palace Palace of Holyroodhouse, Old Town (Map 2B: E2, 36) 0131 652 3685 | Closed during the Queen’s residence in Holyrood Week | £10.95 (set lunch)

If you want to experience a bit of the Royal Family brand in Scotland, you could do far worse than Holyrood’s Café at the Palace: a bright, glass orangery, with views to Salisbury Crags, in the mews courtyard where Her Majesty parks her Bentleys on her annual week-long summer visit to Edinburgh. Everything is proper and tasteful: the crockery is delicate, the service kind, the dainties tasty. The menu heralds the Queen’s Scottish subjects who produce food and drink, and parades her dominion’s classics like haggis, neeps and tatties and Perthshire jacket potatoes, as well as luxurious Royal tarts and Holyrood cakes crested by chocolate crowns, and daily specials from cock-aleekie chicken to lamb rogan josh. But the main attraction is afternoon tea at the palace: loose-leaf tea brewed to perfection in warmed teapots, with elegant tiers of smoked salmon and Aberdeen-Angus canapés, triangular de-crusted sandwiches, masterful Ecclefechan tart, eclairs and Victoria sponge, and cheese scones with vanilla cream and rich jam. + The Ecclefechan tart is the work of a master craftsman - Doubt the Queen likes her scones small and crunchy

NEW Café 1505 @ Surgeonshall 18 Nicolson Street, Southside (Map 2B: A5, 17) 0131 527 1686, heritageportfolio. co.uk | £6.50 (set lunch) / £6.50 (dinner)

Summerhall Café (page 19): a venue with a relaxed community feel

✱ HITLIST

Café 1505 on Nicolson Street opened in summer 2015 to mark the quincentenary of the Royal College of Surgeons, who are based across the courtyard in architect Robert Adams’ temple-like Surgeons’ Hall. Inside the café, on white walls with designs of botanical leaves and berries, a timeline tracks 500 years of college history

ARTS VENUES ✱ Bon Papillon Small café and gallery with a big heart and big flavours to match. ✱ Café Portrait Fresh food with plenty of character, perfectly complementing the prestigious setting. ✱ Colonnades An opulent lunch or afternoon tea in a hushed library; elegant, delicious and excellent value.

right up to the museum’s refurbishment last year. The daily-changing menu’s theme is health and nutrition, serving sunny, punchy vegetarian and vegan soups, sandwiches and salads of leaves, grains, shoots, roots and fruits, beside inventive sausage rolls and dairy and gluten-free options, all proudly made from scratch. There’s good value lunch combos to sit-in or take away, or plump for heftier beef stew or stuffed Cajun potato skins, and cakes like a deliciously rich vegan dark chocolate, berry and fondant gateau. Café 1505 also exclusively stocks a light, crisp 1505 Ale infused with liquorice root, bitter orange peel, coriander seeds and cardamom pods, brewed in East Lothian to an 18th-century recipe. + Delectable dishes for vegans, vegetarians and carnivores - Cakes could be hit or miss

City Art Centre Café City Art Centre, 2 Market Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D2, 10) 0131 226 4965, glenfinlas.com | £11.50 (lunch)

Flush up against busy Market Street and only a few steps from the Waverley Station entrance, City Art Centre Café makes a relaxed destination for grabbing a casual bite to eat or a nice bit of homebaking. The light, industrial atmosphere – high ceilings, exposed ducting, bright lighting – is consistent with the museum’s broader tone, as are the full height modernist murals that dress the walls. The daily-changing menu of a hot dish, freshly made soup and salads shows care and attention. The beetroot salad is rosy with carrots and fresh herbs. The squash, aubergine, bean and pesto salad feels healthily restorative and nourishing. Home-baking happily covers the gamut from Victoria sponge, to slices and biscuits. Toffee apples slices are moist with apple chunks and a perfume of cinnamon. Brownies and blondies are substantial rich bars, if perhaps a bit sweet, but the homemade hot cross buns are deliciously spicy, springy and are ideal for providing the carb injection to set you back on your feet to the next point in the exhibition or back into the working world. + Good spot for a bite before jumping on the train - When empty, it can feel a bit cavernous

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ARTS VENUES & ATTRACTIONS

list.co.uk

EDINBURGH

✱ NEW Colonnades Signet Library, Parliament Square, High Street, Old Town (Map 2A: C3, 18) 0131 225 0651, heritageportfolio.co.uk | Closed Sat | £16 (set lunch)

The Colonnades restaurant opened in 2015 in the Royal Mile’s grandly gorgeous Signet Library, described by George IV in 1822 as ‘the finest drawing room in Europe’. With its Corinthian columns, ornate gilded galleries and two-tier windows looking onto Parliament Hall, diners are surrounded by the legal tomes of the Advocates Library. The library is named for an ancient association of Scottish solicitors who are ‘Writers’ to Her Majesty’s Signet: look out for the monogramed Signetum or WS on the silver teapots, sugar tongs and salt cellars as well as the Signet Gin and Signet Blend tea. Lunch is a delicious, elegant affair. A haggis scotch egg, turnip carpaccio and remoulade, potato tuile and parsley aioli is followed by rich, meltingly soft beerbraised beef, spelt risotto, wild mushrooms and celeriac, and a harmonious dark chocolate and orange fondant, candied zest, snap and clementine sorbet. Later there’s an opulent afternoon tea: tiers of savoury and sweet treats, from beef wellington pie to blueberry and violet eclairs. + Sublime smoked haddock and Mull cheddar rarebit - Why did they wait so long to open?

Dovecot Café by Leo’s Dovecot Studios, 10 Infirmary Street, Old Town (Map 2B: A4, 13) 0131 550 3660, dovecotstudios.com/gallery/cafe | Closed Sun | £7 (set lunch)

Firmly established in the minds of many Edinburgh residents as ‘a little place I know’, the inspiring Dovecot Tapestry Studio and its resident café is in a slightly unprepossessing location in a former municipal swimming pool just off South Bridge. A change of operator in 2015 has seen Stag Espresso replaced by the team behind Leo’s Beanery of Howe Street, but there’s every evidence that they have the right mind-set to keep the cultured and discerning clientele of the venue content. Brown paper coffee bags sit artfully among colourful bobbins of wool,

TIPLIST FOR GOOD PRE-THEATRE DEALS • Dine with Stuart Muir Renowned chef doing Scottish classics in a stylish venue above the Traverse Theatre. 92 • Harajuku Kitchen Just up the road from the King’s Theatre, this popular spot dishes up a taste of Japan. 66 • Henricks Bar and Bistro Relaxed Meadows-side bar with a good wine list; popular with the pre-theatre crowd. 28 • Pomegranate Across from the Playhouse, sample Middle Eastern mezze-style food and chargrilled meats. 86 • The Potting Shed Allotmentthemed gastropub, with tasty, seasonal, local food that’s handy for the Festival Theatre. 32 • Sylvesters Again in the Festival Theatre catchment, this friendly bistro has a seriously good kitchen. 46

Milk at Edinburgh Sculpture Workshop: a light, relaxed space for a wholesome lunch or a good coffee

various blackboards have daily specials and suppliers chalked up, while piles of traybakes are tagged with luggage labels on the counter. Leo’s have a partnership with Ted’s Bakehouse, primarily as a source of gluten-free breads (hence the new Leo & Ted’s café at Tollcross), and here they also draw on the Bearded Baker for bagels and Dough-Re-Mi for focaccia and granary for various filled sandwiches. Combine these with large bowls of soups such as yellow split pea and coconut, or dive into a chickpea, beetroot and goat’s cheese salad, either in the main body of the café dominated by a huge contemporary still-life tapestry, or in one of the two hideaway tables for two with a street view. + You’re going to struggle to get out without the traybakes winking at you - Occasional frenetic moments jar in such a calm arena

2016, the Festival Theatre Café’s new look adds warmth to the light flooding in its glass front, and nods to the oh-so-popular Scandinavian style. The menu features a nice range of fresh sandwiches and salads, as well as a short but well-chosen list of seasonal dishes that wouldn’t look out of place in a bistro. The likes of perfectly baked coconut and herb crusted hake with ratatouille or confit pork belly with black pudding and a sweet pear and celeriac mash are a welcome surprise in a café, reflecting an adaptability that serves its location well. The bar is well stocked to refresh the varied theatre crowds from juices for the pantomime to G&Ts for musicals. Although there are no beers on tap, the ever-changing bottled and canned range is carefully chosen and the wine list has something for everyone. + Quality culinary skills in a café - Wines are on the pricey side

first-class refreshment. Take the long way round from the path starting at Waterloo Place, enjoy the vista of Edinburgh and the Forth opening out below as you circle up the hill, then finally reach Milk’s grand doorway, leading to its open-air tables. There’s a soup – carrot and coriander is a typical choice – or toasties on sour-dough bread if warm food is needed; as well as speciality filled sandwiches such as Isle of Mull cheddar with caramelised tomato and balsamic chutney. Home-baking might be glutenfree carrot, coconut and cranberry cake or moist orange and almond with dark chocolate drizzle – just what you need to refuel. Excellent coffee and tea too. + Fantastic views - Just not enough days in the year for outdoor eating

The Drill Hall Café

Filmhouse Café Bar

34 Dalmeny Street, Leith (Map 5B: B3, 13) 0131 555 7100, outoftheblue.org.uk | Closed Sun | £4.50 (set lunch)

88 Lothian Road, West End (Map 4: C2, 39) 0131 229 5932, filmhousecinema. com | £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

21 Hawthornvale, Leith (Map 1B: D1, off) 0131 551 4490, cafemilk.co.uk | £9 (lunch)

The Royal Scots’ Drill Hall was redeveloped by the charity Out of the Blue in 2010 into an arts and education centre with gallery, rehearsal rooms, performance spaces, and a buzzing, right-on café. Instead of the thump of army boots on the wooden floor, today you’ll hear babies gurgling in buggies and scampering toddlers and dogs – but do try not to disturb the artists working in the surrounding studios. The down-to-earth menu is hearty, wholesome and freshly made – enough to sustain a hungry soldier on a manoeuvres, or fuel a poor artist’s epic flight of fancy. The daily-changing chalkboard lists breakfast rolls, and, for lunch, classic sandwiches and soups with bread from Manna House bakery, specials like a warming beef stew with dumplings, and cakes such as a mighty jam and peanut butter cookie sandwich. If that’s not enough to keep you warm, folded blankets are thoughtfully draped on the chairs to throw over knocking knees. + The food is cracking value . . . - . . . but tends towards the heavy

Behind the Filmhouse’s plush red foyer, the Café Bar may feel a little like a students’ union at first, but that’s where the similarity ends. The food is appetising (no offence to the unions) and the bar impressively stocked – the beer selection is notable enough even for CAMRA. Café-standard baked potatoes stand alongside more unusual choices like stilton, nut and spinach nuggets, falafels, and a fruity and flavoursome chickpea and coconut curry. A wide variety of daily specials, including the likes of lobster ravioli, emulate the diversity of the Filmhouse’s screenings, and the breakfast menu is just as broad. Reasonable prices and an imaginative vegetarian range attract a loyal and varied customer base, including crowds from the Usher Hall, to wax lyrical about cinema and culture over a glass or two. + Vegetarian dishes good enough to tempt a true carnivore - Décor could benefit from a little attention

Milk at Collective NEW Festival Theatre Café Festival Theatre, 13–29 Nicolson Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D4, 78a) 0131 560 2937, edtheatres.com/cafe | Closed Sun | £11 (lunch)

Completing their transformation from Th’Eatery with a refurbishment in January

City Observatory & City Dome, 38 Calton Hill, New Town (Map 1B: D6, 46) 0131 629 6022, cafemilk.co.uk | £6 (lunch)

Although this outdoor café requires a bit of effort to actually reach it, the walk up Calton Hill is worth it for the views alone – as well as for the promise of some

NEW Milk at Edinburgh Sculpture Workshop The latest addition to the Milk chain, the café at Edinburgh Sculpture Workshop continues their trend of popping up in unexpected places. Opened in November 2015, the café area is bright and warm, despite the sparse, slightly industrial surroundings. Milk regulars will recognise hearty and appetising choices from their seasonal menus, like a breakfast burrito with chorizo and scrambled eggs or a chicken wrap with a well-balanced sweet/ savoury peanut sauce, while feta, kale, pea and broccoli fritters are fresh and flavoursome in a sandwich or a salad. The outside space lends itself well to a summer pit-stop and passing walkers and cyclists from the Newhaven cycle path often stop to refuel with a coffee and a bit of gooey hazelnut and chocolate brownie – less virtuous than the rest of the menu perhaps, but a welcome boost for the energy levels. + Healthy, tasty dishes made fresh - Dog walkers can’t bring canine companions inside

Milk at The Fruitmarket Gallery Fruitmarket Gallery, 45 Market Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D2, 3) 0131 226 8195, fruitmarket.co.uk/cafe | £11 (lunch)

Complementing its host gallery’s rotating displays of contemporary art, the Milk at Fruitmarket café is bright, open and cheerful. Enter via the colourful gift/book shop to find a space flooded with light from floor to ceiling windows. Focused

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on yummy but healthy eating, this is a café that is truly family-friendly, eagerly supporting the happy exposure to art from an early age. As well as providing low-fat, gluten/dairy/wheat-free options, Milk also has enticing vegetarian, vegan and superfood choices, clearly marked on their changing menu and daily specials board. Homemade soup might be rosy sweet potato and red pepper, creamy and mellow. Peanut chicken is slow roasted, dressed with lemongrass and sweet soy, wrapped in a truly tender flat bread with fresh, vibrant slaw even slaw-haters will love. Need a vitamin charge after all that art? Try superfood salad, with steamed broccoli, quinoa, kale, pumpkin seeds, mint and feta. The kids’ menu includes seasonal vegetable baby purée and small portions of the main menu. Home-baking is delish too, so indulge. + Nice mix of diners, virtuous but yummy food - Only open when gallery is operating

Museum Brasserie National Museum of Scotland, Chambers Street, Old Town (Map 2A: C4, 51) 0131 247 4040, nms.ac.uk | £12 (lunch)

Contemporary furniture and fittings give the Museum Brasserie a modern feel despite the history in the building above its sandstone arches. Seasonal menus also toast the changing exhibitions of the museum and, of course, Scotland. The dishes are mainly classics, including a roast on Sunday, and centre on local ingredients. The Cullen skink is full of flavoursome Arbroath smokies and the burger is topped with Ayrshire bacon, Mull of Kintyre cheddar or Lanark Blue cheese. There are 10 Scottish craft beers on offer, as well as a small, but well-chosen, wine list. Families are well catered for, with a healthier than average children’s menu – dishes come with a choice of chips or crudités and there’s fruit salad for dessert – and the staff read their customers well, sharing a cheerful anecdote or two with those who want to hear them. + Fluffy Isle of Mull cheddar scones - Can have a somewhat muted atmosphere if it’s not busy

The Royal Exchange Coffee House The Real Mary King’s Close, 2 Warriston’s Close, High Street, Old Town See Cafés

St Giles’ Cathedral Café St Giles’ Cathedral, High Street, Old Town (Map 2A: C2, 17) 0131 225 5147, glenfinlas. com | £11.50 (lunch)

The camaraderie of St Giles’ Cathedral, its surrounding courtyard and the wonderful Signet Library, forms an architectural and historic treasure of which Edinburghers are rightly proud. To be able to enjoy a pleasant bite to eat, tucked away in this sanctuary from the Royal Mile, is a bonus. On warm days consider outside dining, but otherwise wander into the crypt level space where kind and welcoming staff present a delicious range of salads, fresh soups, hot dishes and enticing home-baking. A display case hosts up to eight daily-made salads, bursting with flavour. A chipper green salad of softened leeks, spinach, dill and roast tomato is lightly herby with pesto. Another of mushrooms, red peppers and onions is coated in a mellow, sweet dressing of balsamic vinegar and honey. If the quiche of the day is leek, ham and rosemary, grab it before it disappears. Bakes are well-crafted and avoid being overly sweet – the carrot cake is studded with fruit, while the pecan tarts are nutty and crunchy without the typical sticky gloop. This is a café worth seeking out. + Delicious, inventive salads - Indoor seating a bit institutional

The Scottish Café National Gallery of Scotland, The Mound, City Centre (Map 2A: B1, 1) 0131 225 1550, thescottishcafeandrestaurant. com | £16 (set lunch)

Under the National Gallery of Scotland on The Mound sits the Scottish Café & Restaurant: one of four restaurants in Victor and Carina Contini’s empire of Edinburgh eateries. This modern, subterranean yet light café sports sweeping views over Princes Street Gardens. It’s ideal for bringing the parents to show off the city centre and country’s cuisine, before heading out for a spot of culture, warmed by a brekkie of Aberdeen buttery baked with melted Clava brie and smoked ham. The menu champions Scottish producers, changes monthly to reflect the seasons, but also blends an Italian slow food ethic: good ingredients, cooked simply to let the natural flavours sing. Expect sharing platters of Scottish pies and chutneys, cheeses, smoked salmon and charcuterie, while the mixed platter of the day’s soup (thick, creamy celeriac), pâté (velvety duck liver), and sandwich (chicken, parsley and lemon crème-fraîche) makes for a good value lunch for two. + Good people doing good things with Scottish food - Cakes less of a highlight See also entry in Scottish section

The Stand 5 York Place, New Town (Map 1B: B5, 61) 0131 558 7272, thestand.co.uk | No Kids | No food Mon–Wed or Sun eve | £11 (dinner)

The Stand is every inch the classic comedy club, and one that comics love to play. Its basement location is dark and a little dingy, but the music and the crowd are upbeat and there’s plenty on offer to line the stomach before indulging in a little merriment. The menu is mostly a tribute to the Mexican art of folding and toasting tortillas in various ways, with nachos, burritos and the cheesiest Philly cheese steak tacos known to man, all served with a fresh salad to reduce the subsequent risk of heart attack, plus some particularly good chunky chips to bring it back up again. Potato lovers will appreciate the rooster skins, generously filled with the likes of meat or veg chilli, or barbeque pulled pork. There’s also a fine bar selection to help the laughter along, including a house brew by Belhaven and a decent assortment of wines and spirits. + A great night out - If you don’t queue early, you’ll probably end up standing

NEW Story Café Scottish Storytelling Centre, 43 High Street, Old Town (Map 2B: A2, 2)

May 2016 sees a change in the dayto-day running of the café within the Storytelling Centre on the Royal Mile. New operators Comas are an Edinburgh-based charity offering community support to, among other, adults recovering from addictions. Their original project, Serenity Café, operates

Midnight munchies? Check out our Tiplists on pages 9–11 Find Tiplists on other topics through the guide and online

from a discreet spot near the Holyrood Parliament; this is a step up in terms of profile and ambition. While still planning to run it as a mainstream daytime operation with coffees, teas, cakes and familiar lunchtime range of soups, salads, sandwiches and hot dishes, there are also indications that it will enhance its family-friendly aspects in tune with the storytelling focus of the venue as a whole, open in the evening to coincide with shows and festivals, and offer breakfasts, afternoon teas and takeaway picnic boxes. [Not yet open at time of going to press – check list.co.uk/food for updates.]

NEW Summerhall Café 1 Summerhall, Southside (Map 3C: D2, 17) 0131 560 1580, summerhall.co.uk/ summerhall-cafe | £7.50 (lunch)

Having expanded to take over a little more of the old Royal Dick vet school in 2015, the Summerhall Café offers a lot more than coffee and cake. The café counter and gift shop occupy one of two large, light, interconnected rooms, the other being a gallery laid out with solid wooden tables to gather round, couches to lounge on and plenty of space for mini-people to roam. The impressive range of daily specials, soups, seasonal grilled sandwiches and salads are all made in-house and offer imaginative combinations. Sandwiches come filled with the likes of honey, blue cheese, apple and walnut and salads might feature wild mushroom, chorizo and halloumi with basil garlic vinaigrette. Sourcing is thoughtful with a strong local focus: pies are delivered fresh daily by neighbour, the pie man of Summerhall, sweet offerings from Ridiculously Sticky Brownies and gluten-free choices come from Love Pure Cakes. + A menu of great variety - Toilets could do with a lick of paint

Tower Restaurant National Museum of Scotland, Chambers Street, Old Town See Scottish

Traverse Bar Café 10 Cambridge Street, West End (Map 4: C1, 27) 0131 228 5383, traverse.co.uk | Closed Sun | £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

From its roots in an abandoned brothel in the Lawnmarket, the Traverse Theatre has certainly come a long way in its 50 years. Still nurturing fresh writing talent and pushing boundaries on two stages, the theatre’s subterranean café and bar provides a less controversial space, while staying true to its bohemian roots. Hide away in one of the sought-after booths with a glass of wine and your book (or script), grab some decent pub grub before the main event, or simply enjoy a pint and observe the artistic set in their natural habitat. The concise menu covers sandwiches and lighter bites including the Traverse burger which sees a moist Campbell’s meat patty between crisp brioche buns, served with salsa and crunchy onion rings. The Sharers, which include nachos and a Mediterranean platter, echo the convivial nature of the place, encouraging friends to settle on one of the long couches for an evening of putting the world to rights. + Spacious spot to observe the artistic set in their natural habitat - ‘A Play, a Pie and a Pint’ doesn’t run all year round

24 Royal Terrace 24 Royal Terrace, New Town See Bars & Pubs

Zucca 15–17 Grindlay Street, West End See Italian

BARS & PUBS Partly thanks to neighbourhood gentrification and partly due to a desire to stand out to discerning drinkers who are moving away from unimaginative pack ‘em in boozers, Edinburgh’s bar landscape has changed in the last few years. And for anyone who’s not just here for a gassy, generic beer the changes are for the better. Good times and good fun go hand-in-hand with unpretentious cocktails, craft beer, great food and even a focus on families. While the burger is still the pub grub of choice for many, more imaginative options are making their presence felt. And (chin chin) the wine bar is back – rebooted and relaxed for 2016. Reviewers: Will Bain, Ailidh Forlan, Annie Kelly, Jo Laidlaw, Cat McCabe, Steve Morton, David Pollock, Tracey Reilly, Claire Sawers, Louise Stoddart, Paige Weimer

The Abbotsford 3 Rose Street, New Town (Map 1B: A6, 54) 0131 225 5276 | £18 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

When embarking on that infamous Rose Street pub-crawl, perhaps allocate slightly more time to deliberate which of the 103 whiskies you’ll sample inside this friendly Edwardian landmark. Named after the home of Sir Walter Scott, this traditional boozer is renowned for its olde worlde décor, featuring an antique mahogany island bar and the original gold-leaf ceiling. Alongside the relaxed atmosphere, visitors and chatty locals are drawn in by an impressive beer selection, expertly poured from one of six rotating real ale taps, nine lager taps or the European guest keg. An above-average hearty food menu is served downstairs in the often packed pub, or upstairs in the more peaceful, linen tableclothed dining room. The 48 hour marinated beef shoulder accompanies winter ale in the Abbotsford’s popular pie, fish and chips are abundant and there’s haggis, neeps and tatties too. Whether it’s a casual refreshment or a more formal pub meal, both of the Abbotsford’s environments offer a welcome break from the hectic city centre. + A showcase of Scotland’s best beers from local breweries - Underwhelming sharing platters

✱ NEW Akva 129 Fountainbridge, West End (Map 4: C3, 53) 0131 290 2500, bodabar.com/ akva | Deli plate £7.50 (lunch) / £12.50 (dinner)

The empire of local Edinburgh Swedish bars which started out with Leith Walk’s cosy Boda has expanded into its sixth and largest premises, the two-level canalside warehouse formerly known as Cargo. Where its predecessor was decidedly crisp and corporate, however, the sense of homely, unpretentious chintz with which the Boda chain has made its name fits surprisingly well here. A few muffling rugs, some mismatched furniture, a ping-pong table upstairs (there’s a tournament every Sunday at 6pm) and the customarily decent range of craft beers, ciders and cocktails means this is a fun hangout whether there are a couple of dozen people in for open mic night on Wednesday or the place is mobbed after work on a Friday. Other selling points include child friendliness (there’s a The List Eating & Drinking Guide 19

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EDINBURGH

✱ HITLIST

(named after the pioneers of Edinburgh’s brewing and distilling industries) are selfconfessed beer nerds. Stocking a plethora of bottled beers, ciders and meads and with 20 beers on tap, there’s plenty of scope for them to pursue their obsession. Six of the taps are reserved for the output of the in-house micro-brewery, which operates from behind glass walls in a corner of the bar. Despite the glass and steel, it doesn’t feel too industrial, with wood panelling and old pub accessories softening the look. Food is largely carbbased (think burgers, hotdogs and mac and cheese) though those looking for something more adventurous might opt for moules-frites, bunny chow (a South African lamb curry) or grilled flatbreads. With a hefty student (and university staff) discount, tastings, tap takeovers and other themed events, there are plenty of opportunities to nurture your own beer knowledge here. + Cheerful staff who are good ambassadors for their product - Not the place for a quiet pint at weekends

Badger and Co’s mural

The Balmoral Bar Balmoral Hotel, 1 Princes Street, New Town (Map 2A: D1, 2) 0131 524 7100, roccofortehotels.com/hotels-andresorts | £21 (lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Bar Soba

NEW Bar à Vin

✱ Hoot The Redeemer Fun,

87a Giles Street, Leith See Bistros & Brasseries

When you’re paying £14 for a drink, then you should expect that every element is going to be perfect. Luckily they understand that at the Balmoral, so while it’s probably always going to be a special occasion place, it does deliver. Lush banquettes and booths, dim lighting, extremely knowledgeable staff, a cute complimentary tray of moreish nibbles and a comprehensive menu all scream ‘quality’. A Mai Tai is a proper, grown-up drink – strong, not overly sweet, while a Smoky Treacle, containing apple juice, Mount Gay rum and Bowmore whisky is particularly well-balanced. A range of ‘dessert cocktails’ – for when you want to skip the pud and head straight back to the booze – seems like a mighty fine idea too. After all, can anyone think of a reason to say no to a Black Forest Gateau in a glass? Thought not. + The cocktails - The prices

fairground-themed basement bar where the ice-cream and slushies pack a boozy punch.

The Auld Hoose

Bar 50

23–25 St Leonards Street, Southside (Map 3C: E1, 8) 0131 668 2934, theauldhoose.co.uk | No Kids | £12 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

50 Blackfriars Street, Old Town (Map 2B: A3, 9) 0131 524 3252, smartcityhostels. com | £10 (lunch) / £10 (dinner)

BARS & PUBS ✱ Akva Edinburgh’s Swedish bar chain takes on its biggest venture yet, creating a welcoming space for drinkers, diners and families. ✱ The Bon Vivant Two atmospheric sister venues in the New Town and Stockbridge, with smart and stylish eating and drinking options.

✱ Jeremiah’s Taproom A contender for Edinburgh’s best craft beer selection and as such, definitely worthy of your attention. ✱ The Last Word Saloon This low-lit basement bar strikes the right balance between serious cocktails and a pretention-free environment. ✱ 99 Hanover Street A busy, upbeat and popular cocktail bar taking centre stage on Hanover Street. ✱ The Ox A varied, interesting menu and cheerful staff makes this split-level bar one of the best for pub food in the capital. ✱ Paradise Palms Good times abound in this haven of kitsch, where the veggie soul food has as much spirit as the drinks. ✱ Smith & Gertrude Bright, unpretentious re-invention of the wine bar, with cheese, charcuterie and a customer-controlled record player. ✱ The Southern Welcoming Southside local offering a cracking selection of beer and burgers, served by extremely helpful staff. small baby play area at the back), a huge outdoor seating area on the canal, and strong food offerings; highlights include a chunky, Norwegian-style fish chowder, a plate of Swedish meatballs served with mashed potato, dill gravy and lingonberry jam, and a smoked trout and salmon smörgåsbord. + Homely local on a grand scale, with great food, drink and events - In a developing part of town, it hasn’t quite found its home crowd yet

Andrew Usher & Co 32b West Nicolson Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D5, 71) 0131 662 1757, ushersofedinburgh.co.uk | £10 (lunch) / £13.50 (dinner)

The team behind this subterranean bar

Anfora

Dating back to the 1860’s, the Auld Hoose has been recently modernised without losing its charm. Essentially a traditional (and child-free) boozer, the 2016 refurbishment saw new seating installed, along with a kitchen and bathroom overhaul. There’s a diverse clientele, including student society groups and those attracted by a jukebox stuffed full of punk, metal and goth anthems. There are discounts for students and CAMRA members, along with a decent selection of ales and malts dispensed by a good-natured bar team. The food largely focuses on the standards – burgers, dogs, and mac and cheese – with vegetarian and vegan versions of these available too. A plate of nachos, towering high and slathered in chilli, jalapeños, sour cream and guacamole certainly lives up to its reputation as one of the biggest in town, while burgers are competently done. + Pleasant lo-fi blend of modern and traditional - Some of the bench seats are a tight squeeze

Fortunately for backpackers seeking refuge after long hours of travelling to Scotland’s capital, the journey to one of the Cowgate’s liveliest and most hospitable bars is a short one. As well as beds for visitors to the city, Smart City Hostel by Safestay have created an open lounge space for mingling and refuelling. A buffet breakfast for guests is a backpackers dream – haggis is incorporated, to fuel a day of exploring. Their all-day menu attempts to maintain a Scottish theme, offering Innis and Gunn battered fish and chips, and bursting at the brim Buccleuch burgers, among other stodgy options. As for drinks, the recommended cocktails are dangerously priced at £3.50 a pop, while other options include a far too drinkable Star Anise Martini and a good selection of Scottish whiskies and beers. + Live entertainment on two nights of the week - Although the menu clarifies that (g) means gluten-free, the (g) offerings are minimal

Bar G&V NEW Badger and Co 32 Castle Street, New Town (Map 1A: B5, 47) 0131 656 3105, badgerandco.com | £21 (lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Castle Street further swells the ranks of the capital’s mammalian-monikered hostelries with the opening of Badger and Co, in a building which was the birthplace of Wind in the Willows author Kenneth Grahame. Despite what the sign says, the feel is definitely much more Mr Toad than Badger, a roguish gentility pervading throughout. While the refit is a fairly restrained affair, the palette mainly white and riverbank green, there are splashes of vibrant colour and plenty of tonguein-cheek fixtures too. A fine selection of cocktails follows in the same vein, while food comprises British classics with an element of modernity; think ox tongue with a horseradish bonbon. A private dining room (Toad would no doubt approve) also boasts the promise of whole roast beasts for its patrons. Let’s just hope it isn’t anyone Badger knows. [Not open for a full review at time of going to press – check list.co.uk/food for updates.] See the Table Talk feature on p.96 for more about artist Chris Rutterford’s links with

+ Half-priced afternoon tea for children - £12.50 for a rather stale BLT

1 George IV Bridge, Old Town (Map 2A: C3, 22) 0131 220 6666, quorvuscollection.com/gandv-hoteledinburgh | £18 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Remnants of Missoni’s kaleidoscopic colours and patterns may still shine through, but Hotel G&V has very much made its own mark on the city. The main entrance takes you straight to the bar (as every good hotel should), instantly showing off a chic, elegant space. Vibrantly coloured walls lie behind intimate monochrome sofas, making it a fitting spot for both a nightcap or a morning coffee. The contemporary, spherical chandeliers hanging above the bar highlight the mixologists’ carefully crafted cocktails, which change seasonally. Summer’s whiskybased cocktail with nettle vermouth and heather honey is a particular hit, but the range of garnished G&T’s and various wines, including Prosecco on tap, are popular all year round. If you’re feeling peckish, there’s a variety of light bar food, including Italian charcuterie and cheese sharing platters, pizzas, club sandwiches, followed by Italian custard filled doughnuts. Mmm.

104 Hanover Street, City Centre See Far East

17 Queensferry Street, West End (Map 4: B1, 11) 0131 226 1890, lescargotblanc. co.uk | Closed Sun | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Bar à Vin represents a change of pace for L’Escargot Blanc, the West End sister of Broughton Street’s L’Escargot Bleu. The restaurant remains upstairs and the lower floor has been reconfigured into a more informal bar space, a rustic drinking and dining area with suspended glass lights, classic French posters and a homely old wooden bar along one side of the room. Service is casual but friendly, and happy to engage in knowledgeable descriptions of both the food and the drink, both of which are reasons to make a destination of the place even if you’re not dining upstairs. The wine list is excellent and worthy of continued exploration, with 32 French reds, whites, rosés, sweet wines and champagnes available by the glass, while the highlights of the food menu are the boards of fragrant cheeses and fresh saucisson, the latter sourced in France and Scotland. Foie gras, pâtés and artisan Breton sardines with a variety of flavourings (including wasabi, chilli and peanut oil) complete an experience which is reassuringly authentic. + Authentically French, not least in the quality of the cheese and wine - Feels less like a bar than a high-end café with evening service

The Basement Bar and Restaurant 10–12a Broughton Street, New Town See Mexican

Beer & Skittles Basement, 14 Picardy Place, Leith (Map 1B: C5, 38) 0131 556 1289, beerandskittlesbar.co.uk

If you’ve ever wanted to travel the world one beer at a time, you can pretty much do so while sitting in this basement bar. You can even get a World Beer Tour Card to track your progress as you sample their 100 beers from around the globe (not all on the same day, of course. That would be silly). Start with their own craft lager, before moving onto Brooklyn Lager, Estrella and Caesar Augustus. If beer’s not your thing, there’s a solid range of cocktails: Strawberry Fizz is Bottega prosecco, strawberries, vanilla essence and vodka, while the Havana Rum mojitos go down very well indeed. The kitchen here serves up a range of meaty treats with regular specials, like chargrilled green pepper and olive tapenade, and there’s a good selection of sides (read: tasty fries). This is the place to go if you like trying interesting new beers and classic old burgers (and don’t mind walking down some stairs to get to them). + Extensive beer menu - A hotspot for stag do’s

NEW The Beer Kitchen by Innis & Gunn 81–83 Lothian Road, West End (Map 4: C2, 37) 0131 228 6392, innisandgunn.com | £14 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Conceived and run by Edinburgh’s Innis & Gunn craft brewery, the Beer Kitchen is following in the footsteps of competitors like Brewdog in delivering a barfront focal point for the brand. Yet amid the rapidly gentrifying bar scene on Lothian Road, it doesn’t overdo the hard sell; while the Beer Kitchen offers beer tasting sessions, beer flights and growlers

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Cocktail Bar & Kitchen Where classic and cutting edge cocktails come together in elegant surroundings. Creating the perfect setting for bites, lunch and dinner.

Basement 107 George Street Edinburgh EH2 3ES 0131 297 2630 reservations@copperblossom.com www.copperblossom.com

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to take away as well as offsales (there are 120 beers on their menu in total), the focus seems to be on the experience as a whole. Amidst a fashionable assemblage of bare brick walls, snug booths and a more open area by the bar for lingering barflies, visitors will find a strong wine list, a modest range of classic cocktails and a quality food menu. The emphasis is on meat, but not overpoweringly so - the dinner menu features a range of steaks and a beef curry or a pulled pork belly smoked with Innis & Gunn Original, while a caesar salad with breaded monkfish scampi in place of chicken and a plate of smoked root vegetables with bulgur wheat and beetroot dressing also feature. + Emphasises the ‘kitchen’ part of its name as much as the beer - Lothian Road’s still not the most fashionable neck of the woods

Among the art students, tourists, office workers and . . . dogs which make a regular appearance, the Blue Blazer’s loyal elders will tell you that this place, over the years, has barely changed a bit. On a quiet day, have a gander at the personalised mosaic on the floor, the faded pictures of Edinburgh at the time of opening in 1975 and the whisky barrels plonked around the room. Their seven revolving cask ale taps keep those in search of a local brew happy, with the likes of Fyne Ales Superior IPA and Speyside’s Bow Fiddle Blonde making regular appearances, along with Guinness and all the usual suspects. But what really makes this old-school boozer stand out from the rest is their selection of 80-plus rums from all corners of the world. + A seriously well-stocked bar - Limited food means they sometimes struggle to get bums on seats

Belted

Boda Bar

57a Frederick Street, New Town See Steakhouses & Burgers

229 Leith Walk, Leith (Map 5B: A2, 7) 0131 553 5900, bodabar.com |

The Black Fox 17 Albert Place, Leith Walk, Leith (Map 5B: A4, 20) 0131 553 2268, blackfoxleith. com | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

This bright and spacious Leith Walk bar aims to mix the best elements of a city centre bar and a local, and for the most part it succeeds. There’s a strong cocktail menu which ranges from classics like Negronis and Old-Fashioneds to a range of more playful tiki-themed cocktails. It’s a big space, though, which sometimes works against the bar’s intentions – and it’s not always clear if it wants to be that cosy craft beer hangout or a more commercially focused enterprise. For example, the big screen TVs are there – but they are more likely to be showing a classic movie than the footy. Longtime Leithers may still hold a candle for Priscilla’s, a former occupant of this space, but it’s this skulk of little foxes that’s the future, offering a high-quality, dependable local. + An expansive cocktail menu - The menu isn’t hugely exciting

The Blackbird 37–39 Leven Street, Tollcross (Map 3A: B2, 21) 0131 228 2280, theblackbirdedinburgh.co.uk | £17.50 (lunch) / £18.50 (dinner)

OPEN 7 DAYS - 11AM - 3AM

FOOD SERVED UNTIL 2.30AM EVERYDAY

www.ox184.co.uk

@ox184

184-186 Cowgate. Edinburgh.

ox184

The Blackbird is a very recognisable species in Edinburgh; an old local, rejigged and remade into a new local, appealing to a younger, broader demographic. This one, formerly the Auld Toll, suits its makeover handsomely, with attention to eyecatching detail meaning there’s never a quiet spot for the eye. There’s an impressive cocktail list with a great reputation, particular highlights being The Dreamer (a fragrant rumbased concoction) and their take on the Boulevardier, utilising drink-du-jour, cold-brew coffee. Food is approached with an imaginative sensibility, based around throwing flavours at each other to see if they stick. Raspberries, smoked cheese and walnuts all rub shoulders in a starter salad, while a main of confit duck features crispy plantain, pears and za’atar as accompaniments. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t, but there’s the unmistakable feeling that someone’s having fun in the kitchen, which is nice, as there’s plenty of fun being had out front. + Serious cocktails in one of the best beer gardens in town - Sometimes the flavours don’t stick

As the slightly surprising gentrification of Leith Walk and particularly its bar scene gathers pace, this agreeably odd Swedish-themed bar has been a welcoming home from home for its happy customers for over a decade. There’s a strong emphasis on cocktails including a cocktail of the moment, but whisky drinkers aren’t ignored (with a corresponding malt of the moment) and all the usual tea and coffee options are available. The beer selection changes with the seasons, with more fruit beers in summer and porters in winter. Food, including takeaways, can be brought in since there’s no menu and the cosy back area can be booked gratis for an event or celebration. Themed quizzes have proved popular, with the Harry Potter evening – complete with their own take on the wizard world’s ‘butterbeer’ – resulting in a feverish scramble for reservations. + Laid-back and quirky, ticks all the boxes for a friendly local - Can be a little chilly when quiet

✱ The Bon Vivant • 4–6 Dean Street, Stockbridge (Map 1A: A1, 11) 0131 315 3311 • 55 Thistle Street, New Town (Map 1A: D4, 81) 0131 225 3275, bonvivantedinburgh.co.uk | £20 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

With its flickering candles, Farrow and Ball-style paint hues and striking art deco wall art, the Bon Vivant is an intimate and stylish space. Everything from the décor to the wine-list, in both the original Thistle Street venue and sister bar in Stockbridge, is well thought out. The brief but smartly constructed menu offers canapé style bites (in individual portions or starter sized trios) middles and mains; allowing for either selective grazing or a full-scale blow out. After constructing your own starter of, say, haggis bonbons, squid with pickled cucumber or pork belly bites you can move onto the full-scale delights of duck and Puy lentils or beautifully cooked venison with a port and chocolate sauce. With more than 40 wines by the glass and an alluring cocktail list delivered by award-winning bartenders, there are a myriad of options for indulging in a spot of food and drink pick’n’mix. If you find the choices overwhelming, the knowledgeable, good–natured staff will happily nudge you towards the best possible combinations. + Top-class food and drink with relaxed service - Not many choices for vegetarians

The Blue Blazer 2 Spittal Street, West End (Map 4: D2, 31) 0131 229 5030 | No Kids | £4 (lunch) / £4 (dinner)

The Boozy Cow 17 Frederick Street, New Town See Steakhouses & Burgers

22 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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BARS & PUBS

In association with

EDINBURGH

The Bow Bar 80 West Bow, Victoria Street, Old Town (Map 2A: B3, 27) 0131 226 7667, thebowbar.co.uk | No Kids | £3 pies (lunch)

On the historic curve of West Bow and Victoria Street, the Bow Bar remains delightfully traditional despite the many quirky, hipster-filled establishments that have popped up nearby. That’s not to say their choice of tipples is outdated, however. Somehow, this little nook fits in an astonishing 310 single malts, eight cask ales and six kegs. Keeping things local, they dispense beer from Scottish brewers Fyne Ales, Tempest, Cromarty and others, as well as hunting down bottles of Belgian duppel, German lager and good old, all-American beer. If you enjoy your pint with a pie, get down before 3pm, grab a wee wooden table and get your chops round one from Findlay’s of Portobello. During quieter hours, you may be left with only your thoughts for company, but what better time to appreciate this little treasure in all its glory. + Meet the brewer and tap takeover events show off some of the latest craft beers - Crowded times can be chaotic

Bramble 16a Queen Street, New Town (Map 1A: D4, 95) 0131 226 6343, bramblebar.co.uk | No Kids

Like a fruit between the thorns, Bramble bursts with flavour. Once found – which is a triumph in itself – Bramble goes on to push the boundaries of taste sensation with the likes of pancetta-washed Laird’s Applejack and salted caramel green tea vodka. But don’t be put off by these unusual ingredients. Everything from the sweetness of the Butter-Scotch cocktail to the tangy explosion of the citrusy Beverley Jane has been tried and tested by the knowledgeable bartenders, earning its place on the carefully constructed 22-item list. These exquisite concoctions are just as whacky as Bramble’s drinking vessels, which come in the form of quaint teacups on martini glass stems,

amongst other inventions. This unique candle-lit haven is brought to life by contemporary hip-hop music, and while perhaps it’s fair to say Bramble will test your comfort zone, you’d be a fool to accidentally walk past. + Friendly mixologists to guide you - You’ll have to fight for the intimate cubbyholes

NEW Brandon’s of Canonmills 1 Canonmills, Canonmills (Map 1B: B2, 10) 0131 558 7080 | £15 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

The pub formerly known as Cross & Corner has undergone a smart refurb, leaving it with a new name, new booths (the back room has a separate dining room menu now), pot plants, black ceilings and golden cornices. Cross & Corner had built up its own pretty loyal following, so thankfully some favourites remain (including an excellent sea buckthorn sorbet, served with gin), plus the staff and kitchen team. Brunch is served seven days a week, with new stacks available – a flavoursome potato cake, poached egg and hollandaise with veggie, fish or meat bits balanced on top. A goat’s cheese beignet with harissa mayo makes for a daintily presented brunch option, or there’s hake with chips, clams with pancetta and recommended open sandwiches, with wonderful Archipelago bread from Dundas Street. Desserts are on the steep side at £5–6 but then, Canonmills is sohot-right-now, innit? This dog-friendly, child-friendly, neighbourhood haunt hasn’t lost any of its charms. In fact, it may even have grown some new ones. + Outstanding chips with truffle oil - Expect occasional waits at weekend brunchtimes

The Brass Monkey 14 Drummond Street, Old Town (Map 2B: A4, 15) 0131 556 1961 | No Kids

Home to a cushioned cinema room, selection of board games, dartboard and arcade machine, there’s plenty to do besides drink at The Brass Monkey. However the drinks alone, which are

cheaper than usual and come with a student discount, keep the bar busy. Lively students take to the daily 3pm cinema screenings; popular for the surround sound and BYO film policy, while the remaining nooks and crannies fill up with chatty locals come evening. The offering fulfils basic pub expectations in terms of the usual spirits, wines, bottled ciders and draught beers but their previous lunch deal has recently been replaced by some basic pre-made toasties which even the bar staff couldn’t recommend. + A quirky hangout for a rainy day - Popcorn and sweets brought in from elsewhere banned for movie screening

BrewDog Edinburgh 143–145 Cowgate, Old Town (Map 2A: D3, 86) 0131 220 6517, brewdog.com/ bars/edinburgh | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Opening their second bar in the big, bad capital back in 2011 was a big step in BrewDog’s beginnings. Now, with over 40 bars worldwide and more in the pipeline, the Auld Reekie branch is doing its best to showcase the expanding range. BrewDog memorabilia is scattered around the room to tempt an evergrowing fan base, but the exposed brick, wood and swanky window-style mirrors demonstrate their tasteful style. Draught beers are listed on retro readograph signs above the bar, beside the list of guest beers, allowing you to weigh up your options. Whether you go for a flagship Punk IPA, an amplified Cocoa Psycho, or Oskar Blues’ Death by Coconut, the self-proclaimed beer geeks behind the bar will select the appropriate glass to optimise taste. Food wise, options are fairly limited, but their handmade, crispybased pizzas and richly flavoured ale pies are yet another example of their focus on quality over quantity. + People and their pooches welcome - Good beer doesn’t come cheap

Café Royal Circle Bar 19 West Register Street, New Town (Map 1B: B6, 50) 0131 556 1884, caferoyaledinburgh.co.uk | £20 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Certainly one of the most beautiful pubs in Edinburgh, if not Scotland, the architecture of the Café Royal has been called both innovative and wilful. Some might also add ‘educational’ as the hand painted Doulton life-sized tile portraits of great inventors lining the south wall reminds of the origins of the printing press, the steam engine and the electric motor. Gleaming white marble floors, brass chandeliers and dark wooded surrounds generate a sense of welcoming Victoriana, as does the perpetual clink of glasses from the patrons surrounding the central circular bar. A substantial whisky display and a daily-changing range of real ale keep both local and tourists enthusiastic, hence seating in padded booths is ever in high demand. The menu holds the line between sound Scottish pub fare and oyster bar. And oysters do demand one’s attention as crushed ice bedded platters hosting glistening half shells pass through the room. Despite being a magnet for tourists, Café Royal maintains its genuine local feel and identity and remains a truly special place. + Stunningly beautiful setting to sink oysters and pints - Getting hold of a table can warrant executing a few rugby moves

Café Voltaire 36–38 Blair Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D3, 88) 0131 247 4704, thecabaretvoltaire. com |

The Beer Kitchen by Innis & Gunn (page 20): home turf for the local brand.

Part of the G1 gang which also includes old school Edinburgh pubs Biddy

TIPLIST FOR COCKTAILS • Bramble Candle-lit, Broughton Street basement bar for the adventurous drinker or cocktail connoisseur. 23 • Heads & Tales Underground bar where gin is king, and that’s no bad thing. 27 • The Lucky Liquor Co Casual cocktail bar specialising in seasonal, innovative concoctions. 29 • Panda & Sons Tucked downstairs on a corner of Queen Street, this prohibition-themed cocktail bar offers unusual concoctions. 31 • Paradise Palms Good-time cocktail lounge vibe in student land, where vegetarian soul food has spirit, as do the drinks. 31 • Sygn High-quality cocktails (and late-night pizzas) in the heart of the West End. 35

Mulligans and the Three Sisters, Café Voltaire holds its own charm. Often filled with a sea of people barging past each other to explore the goings-on over two levels, the café sits upstairs and can be of equal madness right up until 3am. While many have their eye on the pricier selection of bottled beers, the bartenders are kept busy with a short, but well compiled list of predominantly rum and gin cocktails (also available by the kettle). Weather permitting, pizzas are carted in from their sister bar around the corner which seem to go down a treat especially alongside 2 cocktails, all for a mere £12. Dress however you please, as the hipster ambience and the once-loved bike hanging on the wall, mean that you won’t feel out of place. + They host an interesting range of events, including deep house yoga and life drawing classes - But the stale booze smell needs sorting before yoga can be considered

The Caley Sample Room 42–58 Angle Park Terrace, West End (Map 4: B4, off) 0131 337 7204, thecaleysampleroom.co.uk | £12 (set lunch) / £18.75 (dinner)

Out west in Shandon, the lively, faintly barn-like Caley Sample Room seems to be having quite a good time. Free from the corporate shackles of its brewery namesake, the bar explores the Scottish micro-brewing scene with enthusiasm, so guest taps range from generic Deuchars (tourists expect it), to more interesting offerings by the likes of Tempest and Fyne. The menu too shows some adventure, with ambitious specials (like hare loin wrapped in serrano ham) tempting alongside pub standards (fish and chips). There’s perhaps occasional evidence of over-reaching, as what’s served isn’t always what’s billed, like the hot-smoked salmon, which, though from a decent source (Creelers, no less), isn’t smoked in-house as promised. It’s ok though; if the good vibes don’t make up for such a faux pas, the outstanding sticky toffee pudding surely will. + Choosing a drink – fantastic beer and wine selections - The food isn’t always what the menu promises The List Eating & Drinking Guide 23

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list.co.uk

EDINBURGH

+ Surprisingly strong Scottish beer

selection - Steer clear if you’re trying to be healthy

and sensible

Clerk’s Bar 74–78 South Clerk Street, Southside (Map 3C: D2, 19) 0131 667 2701, clerksbar.com | £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

Carters Tap: recently refurbished Haymarket bar with a good line in Scottish beers and gins

The Cambridge Bar 20 Young Street, New Town (Map 1A: B4, 42) 0131 226 2120, thecambridgebar. co.uk | £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Forget the stereotypes: the Cambridge offers an unpretentiously warm welcome – quite literally, if you get a seat by the open fire – to all walks of life, including dogs. Vegetarians and meat-eaters alike fight for a place on the snug leather sofas to sample their gourmet burgers. The patty comes in a choice of locally sourced buffalo, 100% Scottish beef, chicken, or bean, with over 20 inventive topping combinations to ensure a towering feast, popularly complemented by Cajun fries. To follow, the fudgy cocoa brownie or Mackie’s ice-cream milkshakes tick all the right boxes. Ask for the tray of hot sauces and test your tolerance with the fiery red-dotted Hot-Headz chocolate habañero. If you can’t handle the heat there’s always a chilled craft beer or Scottish ale from the rotating IPA tap to wash it down. A projector screen showing live sports ensures an excitable, tense atmosphere and when there are no big fixtures on the pub reminisces to 80s and 90s rock classics. + Hard to get a table when the rugby’s on - Leading Edinburgh’s burger boom by example

Candy Kitchen & Bar 113–115 George Street, New Town (Map 1A: B5, 44) 0131 225 9179, candybaredinburgh.co.uk | £8.50 (lunch) / £8.50 (dinner)

Thanks to a prime George Street location and an ‘all food for £5’ menu, Candy Bar is a popular location for students and young professionals. During the day expect a calm break from the shops, but come evening the bar transforms and bustles with young boozers. The American-inspired finger food comes in the form of fried sharing bites, nachos, burgers, mac ‘n’ cheese fritters and club sandwiches, with the likes of waffles and warm chocolate brownies to round off the meal. However, this is by no means the main event. Behold, the 65 long cocktail and shooter menu, which, accompanied by a resident techno DJ set (every Wednesday – Sunday), kicks off the partying spirit. The candy theme runs throughout with decorative sweet jars and quirky alcoholic treats garnished with Sherbet Dip Dabs. Not least, the chatty bar staff keep you sweet during the long

wait for drinks. + Pick and mix of tempting cocktails - Limited options for vegetarians and health-conscious diners

The Canons’ Gait Craft Beer Bar & Kitchen 232 Canongate, Old Town (Map 2B: B3, 29) 0131 556 4481, gait.bar | £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Before their refurb back in 2014, The Canons’ Gait, for many, was just a stop-off for a swift half on the way home. Now, with an enticing menu, contemporary décor and live music most evenings, it’s much more than your average Royal Mile tourist trap. With six rotating beer taps, three regulars, two guest keg beers and a range of trendy bottles from the likes of Colonsay and Loch Ness breweries, they’ve got their beer selection down to a tee. To complement such a fine range of ales is a menu of light bites, including sharing platters, as well as some more substantial grub. The truffle oil macaroni cheese and hop-smoked fishcakes with onion purée demonstrate their efforts to make their own mark on otherwise boring pub grub. Even though wines are not their thing, there is still a generous list, made even more affordable with the option of a carafe. + Food and craft beer pairing evenings - Slightly bland interior

Carters Tap 185 Morrison Street, West End (Map 4: B2, 73) 0131 228 9149, 50mls.co.uk/ carters | No Kids

Once a comfortably old-fashioned snug on Morrison Street which paid vague homage to the Michael Caine film Get Carter, Carters has moved with the times (and the rapidly up-andcoming Haymarket area around it). Built over two cosy split-levels, with the mezzanine hanging low over much of the bar, its makeover is both classic and contemporary. By the bar, there are swivelling stools, mosaic floor tiles and padded knee rests, while behind, the brick is fashionably stripped-back and the beer and gin ranges, in particular, are wellstocked. Six beer taps include three guests drawn exclusively from around Scotland – including Alechemy, Barney’s, Pilot, Stewart’s and Harviestoun – as well as a range of 15 all-Scottish gins and a decent selection of whiskies.

+ Well stocked with Scottish beers - No food

There’s plenty going on at this Southside hostelry; in-house events include open mic sessions, live music, quizzes, and big-screen football action at the weekends. There’s even a function room (offering buffet meals) if you want to host your own bash. The décor has a whiff of Americana about it with pop-art murals and wood cabin-style panelling on the walls. Likewise the menu heads towards the Tex-Mex side of the pub-grub spectrum with a selection of burgers, gourmet hot dogs and smoky ribs. Tables are laden with a great range of spicy sauces and rolls of paper towels; handy for mopping up tangy pulled pork and apple burgers with onion rings or a sharing platter of home-smoked meats including smoked chicken and baby back ribs. There’s a reasonable selection of cask, draught and bottled ales, with an emphasis on ‘beer-miles’ and showcasing local breweries. + Local beer for local people - Slim pickings for vegetarians

The Cloisters CC Blooms 23–24 Greenside Place, East End (Map 1B: D5, 44) 0131 556 9331, ccbloomsedinburgh.com | £12.50 (lunch) /£12.50 (dinner)

Bars best known for late-night revelry can have a tendency to be far less appealing when the sun is up and the beer goggles have been stowed for a few hours’ respite. With its quirky, colourful décor and personable staff, CC Blooms deftly avoids this potential pitfall, offering an impressive range of beers and varied, well-priced food options from its late-morning opening all the way through to 9pm when the emphasis shifts towards cocktails, party drinks and dancing. The unfussy menu takes in favourites like haggis, neeps and tatties (served in a cutesy ration tin), macaroni cheese and a variety of school dinner-style desserts. Those less peckish can opt for wraps or flatbreads at lunchtime or tapas-sized dishes including chicken skewers and pakoras, and visitors to the Playhouse next door have the option of choosing from a short, pre-theatre selection of pastas and curries. + A good-time bar open late every night - Predictably not great for children

The City Café 19 Blair Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D3, 89) 0131 220 0125, thecitycafe.co.uk | £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Amid the Cowgate’s late-night drinking spots, over time the City Café has become a magnet to those starting the night young. With DJs at the weekends blasting out Motown and funk, groups of revellers set up camp in the café’s booths, tucking into ginormous burgers, sharing pitchers of beer and eyeing up the pool table. The real daredevils can sign up for the burger challenge, while the rest of us admire the pictures of previous competitors hanging proudly on the wall by the glowing neon lights. Open bright and early from 9am, the breakfast menu is predominantly American and fills hungry tummies with eggs benedict, royale and florentine, syrupy waffle stacks and full Scottish brekkies. Not surprisingly this, and the reasonably priced kids’ menu, makes it a hit with families – until the serious drinkers arrive, anyway.

26 Brougham Street, Tollcross (Map 3A: C1, 6) 0131 221 9997, cloistersbar.com | Closed Mon |

Funny old thing, fashion. Bars like the Cloisters have ticked along for years and have perhaps never quite been given the recognition they deserve for surfing the wave of the craft beer movement – if not starting it off in the first place. Here, big beards and fancy beer flights are swapped for a quiet expertise, a warm welcome and a rotating range of 19 cask and keg beers from brewers like Pilot, Cairngorms, Alchemy and Black Isle. There’s a nicely edited range of bottled beers from Europe and further afield, and a decent, locally sourced burger to boot. It’s an atmospheric spot for a quiet pint or two, especially when the Edinburgh rain lashes against the window and the open fire flickers invitingly inside. + The fire and the pint - The pew seating isn’t all that comfy

Clouds & Soil 4 Picardy Place, New Town See Bistros & Brasseries

The Compass Bar 44 Queen Charlotte Street, Leith (Map 5A: D2, 28) 0131 554 1979, thecompassleith. co.uk | £5.95 (set lunch)

It’s all change down at the Compass. A significant extension and refurb in early 2016 saw the pub taking over the vacant restaurant next door, almost doubling the space. There’s (finally) a bigger kitchen, plenty of exposed brick, lots more seating plus a comfy sofa area, and a toasty stove for those days when the Leith winds blow down Queen Charlotte Street (so, all of the days). The extra space means space for an expanded drinks list, with an emphasis on bottled beers including selections from cult and kitsch Lagunitas. Food-wise, there’s a pleasant ‘any time’ feeling to the menu, which kicks off with brekkie at 10am and keeps going till the last Leither’s been fed. There’s a strong and ever-changing selection of daily specials, while Thursday night is steak night: two steaks and a bottle of wine for £29. + A fantastically successful re-boot for this much-loved bar - Some locals will miss the compact old space

24 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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BARS & PUBS

In association with

EDINBURGH

NEW Copper Blossom 107 George Street, New Town (Map 1A: B5, 46) 0131 297 2630, copperblossom. com | £17 (lunch) / £19 (dinner)

A new player on the crowded scene around George Street, Copper Blossom is an enticing-looking bar. Accessed through a bright and open basement space, the entire front wall has been replaced by glass, bringing the outside in and the inside out. Indoors there’s a feel of opulent chintz, with white-painted brickwork and flowery cushions – the toilets, cast in marble, with wall-mounted hand mirrors and monochrome décor, are particularly memorable. It’s an aesthetic which extends to the food and the drink; downstairs is a room with a glass door named the Laboratory, bearing equipment whose applications include removing the colour from liquids, creating clear Bloody Marys and Mojitos. The food is of a decent bar food rather than fine dining quality, but there’s good variety on the menu. Starters include beetroot fritters and a tender salt and pepper squid served with aioli, while mains feature a delicately fried cod fillet in a haricot bean and chorizo stew, chicken schnitzel stacked on vegetables, and a range of salads. + Attractive bar with a fun approach to drink creation - The food is merely okay

The Cumberland Bar 1–3 Cumberland Street, New Town (Map 1B: A4, 15) 0131 558 3134, cumberlandbar.co.uk | No Kids (under 5) | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

One for anyone on a literary tour of Auld Reekie. This Victorian New Town pub features in Alexander McCall Smith’s Scotland Street books; its owner

apparently thanked the author in Waitrose once for the boost to business. The leafy beer garden is an excellent place to be when the sun shines on the city’s elegant Georgian grid, drinking a cold gin (they have many), or pints of Scottish craft beer (Alechemy, Pilot, Fyne Ales and Campervan Brewery all make appearances on the taps, see Twitter for real ale updates). In damper, dreicher conditions, the bar’s many wood-panelled nooks and crannies are good for holing up in and enjoying a warming venison pie, haggis bonbons with whisky sauce or Crombies sausage and mash. A dog-friendly spot, popular with well-heeled students as well as locals lingering over a Sunday roast. + Mulled wine under a blanket in the beer garden - Sharing your quiet nook with noisy neighbours

The Devil’s Advocate 9 Advocates Close, Old Town (Map 2A: C2, 15) 0131 225 4465, devilsadvocateedinburgh.co.uk | £22 (lunch) / £22 (dinner)

The Old Town’s closes are magical places to stumble upon – even Edinburgh natives can be surprised by a turn, a twist, a hidden garden, a sneaky short cut or a wonderful bar. Tucked into the bottom of atmospheric Advocates Close, the Devil’s Advocate reflects the mix of old and new architecture outside with its own split-level conversion of a Victorian pump house. Nothing here disappoints – the cocktails are distinctive and carefully made, the bar gleams with a huge range of whiskies (including a range of Japanese blends) and the food delivers confidently (though perhaps there could be a wider range of smaller snacks and nibbles for those who don’t fancy a

full meal). Spiced fried polenta cake is well seasoned and accompanies a pile of wilted greens blanketed with hollandaise in a pleasing mix of indulgence and health, while a salad of roast beef is beautifully dressed with sherry and nigella seeds. All in, this is an experience to be savoured and enjoyed. + Beautiful space in a beautiful space - Some smaller bar nibbles wouldn’t go amiss

Le Di-Vin Wine Bar 9 Randolph Place, West End (Map 4: B1, 6) 0131 538 1815, ledivin.co.uk | Closed Sun | £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

They say ‘in vino veritas’ and there’s plenty on offer here to test that theory. This beautiful old room (the former Oratory of St Anne) is a secret West End den where you can hole up with a date or a mate, share some nibbles and gossip and – most importantly – some excellent wine. The classy surroundings make for a memorable assignation – especially if you can snag one of the sought after tables on the mezzanine level upstairs. There’s not a huge amount of food on offer, but sharing platters of piquant cheese and aromatic charcuterie (with bread, bien sûr) make an ideal foil for all the wine. It gets rowdy after work on Friday, when gin and beer drinkers temporarily outnumber the oenophiles, so might be best avoided at this time if you’re after a quiet word in someone’s ear. Otherwise, this is a handy place to keep in your repertoire of West End bars where atmosphere and elegance are still watch words and where the grape still rules supreme. + So many wines to try - Charcuterie platter will only take you so far – soon you’ll need dinner

Divino Enoteca 5 Merchant Street, Old Town See Italian

Dragonfly 52 West Port, Old Town (Map 2A: A3, 40) 0131 228 4543, dragonflycocktailbar.com | No Kids

Popular with stags hunting down the nearby strip clubs, West Port is an area that is generally best avoided in the evenings. Yet strangely enough, it is here that the charming Dragonfly bar sits, with a modest entrance to a snug drinking hub. Behind the bar, the team are kept busy mixing up a fresh, interesting list of classic and more contemporary cocktails. The raspberry ripple, deliciously sweet and complete with a hundreds and thousands rim, is the girliest tipple on the menu, whilst the wittily named ‘death becomes Herradura’; tequila, Cointreau, lillet, lemon and absinthe, is served straight up – perhaps those stag parties are missing a trick, after all. The second, more intimate room, has its own private bar but is usually booked out, so you can only admire it from afar. But the jumble of flamboyant, Oriental décor, including an exotic purifying plant to the side of the bar, adds to the originality of this Old Town treasure. + Cocktails, wines, gins (accompanied by a choice of tonics), and other spirits - Missing out on the private bar

Ecco Vino 19 Cockburn Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D2, 5) 0131 225 1441, eccovinoedinburgh. com | £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Ecco Vino’s large tavern-style windows facing out onto Cockburn Street give passers-by a tantalising glimpse of the wine haven within. The stacked

bar à vin

Take a seat, relax and enjoy our wines, cheeses and charcuteries served all day. ‘Irresistibly French’ (Joanna Blythman)

Open from 12am till late from Monday to Saturday 17 Queensferry Street, Edinburgh EH2 4QW 0131 226 1890 | www.lescargotblanc.co.uk @Lescargot_Bar

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BARS & PUBS

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EDINBURGH

TABLE Talk

wine bottles on the wall may play their part to lure punters in, while browsing the wine list will hopefully confirm their expectations. Novices will note its categorised layout, which makes decision-making simpler, while experts will be impressed by a broad international selection, accurate tasting notes and the waiters’ ability to pair a wine with any dish. Their new menu has a focus on seafood, with small plates featuring seared scallops, potted crab, wild prawns and veggie aubergine rolls. Mains are split into dishes ‘from the land’ and ‘from the sea’: the seafood platter brings together just about all the seafood and fish on the menu. A lot of thought has gone into the food but Ecco Vino still seems to be shaking off its sea legs: some dishes are served a little hastily, although with good intent. + Staff know the wine list like the back of their hand - The food just needs to bed in a little

demographic than you might expect. A slate-clad bar and expansive windows give a bright and modern feel to what can be a busy wee space. If it’s peace and tranquillity you’re after then best to nab a booth seat, especially if there are events on or large tables in. A visit here should be compulsory for anyone with even a passing interest in gin; the bar holds more than 200 bottles from around the world. Fortunately the clued-up and approachable bar team will happily guide your choices. Meanwhile, from the kitchen, “Bertha” (a blisteringly hot charcoal oven) sends out a steady stream of well-presented gourmet burgers and steaks, all served with beautifully crispy skin-on chips. Look out also for their gin master classes and a seasonal secret gin garden, which provides a botanical haven during the festival. + Fantastic range of gins and a great bar team who’ll help you choose - Noise levels can be distracting

Element

52 Canoes

110–114 Rose Street, City Centre (Map 1A: C5, 60) 0131 225 3297, elementedinburgh.co.uk | No Kids (under 5) | £14 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

13 Melville Place, West End (Map 4: A1, 1) 0131 226 4732 | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

a remarkable 100 more over the next year) Glasgow’s G1 group is becoming a sizeable beast. Ghillie Dhu is its flagship in Edinburgh; a cavernous two floor bar, restaurant and ceilidh venue (public ceilidhs are held every Friday and Saturday night) that manages a slightly camp but uncluttered olde-worldliness without feeling like it’s just there for the goggle-eyed tourists. The menu is designed and prepared in-house and is predominantly predictable pub staples – pies, pasta, grill options – which won’t attract many gourmands, but it’s not the place for them anyway. Likewise, the bar hits dead centre with a range of crowdpleasing beers, wines and cocktails, but doesn’t really define itself with any leftfield options. Still, it’s a busy spot after work on a Friday, and, yes, it’s good for giving it laldy once in a while. + Medieval ballroom chic - It all feels a bit scripted

Greenmantle

WILL MCEVOY ON TV-WORTHY TABLEWARE For as long as I can remember, I’ve always made things and loved art. I also grew up living over the village pub run by my parents and it’s for these reasons I probably feel so at home making artwork for bars, clubs and restaurants. Most of my work comes from word-of-mouth, which is great as I know I must be doing something right. That’s how I first met the chef Mark Greenaway – I was making a giant wooden stag head for a friend of his. Mark asked if I could design and make a platter for one of his dishes on the BBC’s The Great British Menu. He needed something understated but functional to properly frame his dish – the food has always got to be the star, after all. I continue to work with Mark at his new restaurants, even making furniture and sculptures for him. I try always to meet at the bar or restaurant where a new piece is to be. It helps me get a feel for the venue and the client so I can better tailor the artwork. I still consider the tableware I make artworks. I take the same time to develop the concepts as my larger pieces. I get asked a lot what my medium is when I say I’m an artist, and the answer is that I use whatever best suits the project. I don’t limit myself to one material or discipline. The key is understanding and tailoring ideas. ■ Will McEvoy is an artist and sculptor who creates tableware and artwork for restaurants. He works under the name iconicai. iconicai.co.uk

On Edinburgh’s renowned pubbing strip, Element distinguishes itself with a laidback atmosphere, typically appealing to an upmarket clientele. Post-work drinkers are drawn to the ever-growing selection of gins, recommended in the double shot house serve, while twelve hours later, the ultimate hangover-curing Bloody Mary sharing board eases in the weekends. The food menu is a highlight. Starters including potted rabbit and twice-baked Ayrshire of Dunlop cheese soufflé deliver unexpected finesse, whilst main courses like Barbary duck breast accompanied by crispy polenta, cavolo nero, shallot purée and cherry jus, scream everything but typical pub fare. These can be enjoyed in the warmly lit dining room, furnished with tartan cushions, stag horn chandeliers and a mural depicting all things quintessentially Scottish, or in the casual bar area in front of live rugby, golf or tennis – a relaxed environment suitable for whiling away the hours over the popular Sunday lunch + Excellent cooking displayed across a range of dishes - Toilets could do with some attention

The Espy 62–64 Bath Street, Portobello, Portobello (Map 5B: C5, off) 0131 669 0082 | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Join in when you know the words: ‘oh we do like to be beside the seaside, oh we do like to be beside the sea’. Down Porty way, the Espy has a killer view and a killer daily breakfast to match it. Locals and day-trippers alike pile into this tikithemed bar to enjoy cocktails (heavy on the rum) and boozy milkshakes. The menu changes frequently and features generous sharing boards, piled high with salad and pitta strips, as well as the expected comfort grub – burgers and nachos all present and correct. When the sun shines there’s possibly no better place to be than the Espy, and when it doesn’t (we are talking about Edinburgh, after all) it’s still far from a hardship to tuck yourself up in a cosy corner as you wait for the weather to change its mind. + That view - Disappointing beer selection

While gin is definitely having a moment around town, 52 resolutely paddles its own canoe straight down rum river. There’s well over a hundred different brands and ages available, including Scotland’s own Dark Matter, with rum flights and tasting notes acknowledging the spirit’s serious taste credentials. This love of all things rum translates into a mean cocktail too – their Mai Tai is a strong contender for the best in the city – while homemade ginger beer elevates a simple Dark and Stormy to almost cult status. Food-wise though, things are a little uneven, with the odd kitchen error and a pile ’em high mentality on the sharing platters suggesting the odd shortcut when it comes to fresh ingredients. That said, the tiki bar styling, warm welcome and generous side order of kitsch make this a grand choice for a fun night out. + Fun cocktails, fun times - Food quality very mixed

Filmhouse Café Bar

44 West Crosscauseway, Southside (Map 3C: D1, 4) 0131 662 8741, greenmantlepub.co.uk | No Kids (under 5) | £9 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Often playing host to student clubs and societies, Greenmantle is rarely quiet. The bar staff pride themselves on their Scottish hospitality, which coupled with frequently changing guest ales and modestly priced pub grub, also makes Greenmantle a favourite among locals. A small kitchen means they outsource a lot of their food from sister pub the Mash Tun. The usual suspects of mac and cheese, beef and Guinness pie, baked tatties and nachos come in abundance, but these are no match for the show stopping buffalo burgers, direct from Puddledub Farm, Fife. They come stacked on a brioche bun, packed with your choice of onion rings, guacamole, a variety of cheeses, pulled pork, bacon or haggis. The traditional pub décor features fairy lights, an impressive collection of coasters and humorous wall signs, while three large TV screens means no large sporting event is ever missed. + Two for one burgers on Mondays and a challenging Tuesday night quiz - The deep fat fryer smell can linger

88 Lothian Road, West End See Arts Venues

The Fountain 131 Dundee Street, Fountainbridge (Map 4: B4, 54) 0131 229 1899, thefountainbar. co.uk | £11 (set lunch) / £19.75 (dinner)

Part of the Shilling Group , the Fountain is an ex-John Barras pub that’s gone all Farrow and Ball, with an airy and unfussily stylish bar area and a darker, snugger dining room. There’s some decent beers to choose from, both on tap and by the bottle, plus a smattering of cocktails, but the bar doesn’t quite have the geekish know-how that some more specialist joints offer. What it does have is a popular menu, doing the pan-global gastro-pub thing, so a tagine, a laksa and a steak and chips might share a tabletop. Some dishes are a little odd – a risotto made with long grain rice just seems weird these days, and a ham hock terrine served without bread but with butter is, well, missing something – but there’s decent ingredients used, and it shows, especially in a glorious (and enormous) beef shin pie. + Plenty of excellent drinks to pick from - Service can get muddled on a busy night

56 North 2–8 West Crosscauseway, Southside (Map 3C: D1, 1) 0131 662 8860, fiftysixnorth.co.uk | £12 (lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Ghillie Dhu

Situated alongside the University, this stylish cocktail bar attracts a broader

With over 40 bars, restaurants and clubs under their belt (and plans to add

2 Rutland Place, West End (Map 4: B1, 18) 0131 222 9930, ghillie-dhu.co.uk | £9 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

TIPLIST FOR WHISKY • The Bow Bar A long-standing favourite in the city, the Bow Bar offers a wide range of whiskies and real ales. 23 • The Devil’s Advocate Quality food and drink, tucked into one of Edinburgh’s most distinctive closes. 25 • The Guildford Arms Traditional bar where a warm welcome and a bewildering number of whiskies awaits. 27 • Queen’s Arms Classy New Town boozer for a pint watching sport, a wee tipple or cocktails and a meal out. 32 • Scotch Comfortable and unpretentious bar with smart staff guiding you through a bewildering array of drams. 33 • Whiski Rooms With views over the Mound, indulge in traditional Scottish food and maybe a wee nip. 99

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BARS & PUBS

In association with

Guild of Foresters

The Hanging Bat

40 Portobello High Street, Portobello (Map 5B: C5, off) 0131 669 2750, forestersguild.co.uk | £14 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

133 Lothian Road, West End (Map 4: C2, 44) 0131 229 0759, thehangingbat.com | £10 (lunch) / £10 (dinner)

The Guild of Foresters may have stripped away much of the interior of its predecessor, the Foresters Arms, but it’s kept the welcoming ambience of a local pub. The brick walls and bucket seats give it a contemporary yet cosy feel, enhanced by fires in the winter and an open frontage in the summer. It’s got a buzzing atmosphere even on weeknights yet it’s still a comfortable place to bring the kids (until 8pm anyway). The menu features classic Scottish starters of ham hock terrine or liver parfait with oatcakes followed by the likes of pink lamb rump with dauphinoise potatoes, ribeye steaks, and slow-cooked pig cheeks. Pub classics come in two sizes, with the well-cooked and generous Peterhead haddock and chips a local favourite. Open all year round, the beer garden is not to be missed, with its colourful beach huts and synthetic grass making it almost as inviting as the nearby beach. + A beer lover’s paradise - Chef’s specials a little hit and miss

The Hanging Bat is full of nooks and crannies set into split-levels of exposed brick, chunky wood and reclaimed furniture. Depending on your love for all things hoppy, the choice of 158 bottles and cans may be either overwhelming or exciting. However, the staff are more than happy to share their love and understanding, gladly offering tasters of the six cask beers or 14 keg lines. For those who can’t settle on one, there’s a flight (five 1/3 pints) on offer, or bookable beer tastings and brew days for some serious, in-depth beer appreciation. The food is all about meat, with an American accent. That means pulled pork, ribs, or a choice of hotdogs (including the haggistopped Greyfriars Bobby – they haven’t forgotten where they are) and sides of ‘slaw, collard greens or beer mac ‘n’ cheese, but no chips – and apparently you shouldn’t ask. + Beer served in aficionados’ 2/3 pint glasses - The sides are on the small side

NEW Harry’s Bar & Grill The Guildford Arms 1–5 West Register Street, New Town (Map 1B: B6, 49) 0131 556 4312, guildfordarms.com | No Kids (under 5) | £18 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

First up, it’s beautiful and everything you’ve heard about the ceiling, the gleaming dark wood and the brass twinkling in the gentle Edinburgh light is true. But pubs don’t stay open, in continuous ownership, for well over a hundred years just because they’re pretty. Perhaps the fact that the Guildford’s social media pages feature picture after picture of its guest ales, rather than its gleaming gantry, is the key to its success. Beer is a serious business here, with a continuously changing range of cask and craft ales and beers gracing the taps. And while there are some familiar faces, there’s always something new to discover – whether it’s a new brewer or a single cask of something special. The food is resolutely Scottish and perhaps a little dated, but everything’s prepared on the premises and service is swift and helpful. Kudos to a grand old lady. + It is a truly beautiful bar - The food could do with a tiny update

Hamilton’s Bar and Kitchen 16–18 Hamilton Place, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B2, 18) 0131 226 4199, hamiltonsedinburgh.co.uk | £13 (lunch) / £19 (dinner)

This bar has become a busy Stockbridge local since opening in 2008, facilitating drunken catch-ups over cocktails among friends (the long cocktail menu includes a banana and salted caramel Old Fashioned, a pecan and amaretto sour, and plenty seasonal concoctions in Mason jars with stripy straws) and refuelling for those suffering from shopper fatigue. Weekend breakfast options include black pudding schnitzel with fried egg and caramelised apple or avocado with poached egg on sourdough bread with chorizo jam, plus gluten-free sweet potato hash browns with eggs and red pepper salsa. Occasionally, combinations don’t quite gel (admittedly, hake with macadamia nut brittle and salted caramel may be an acquired taste) but the staff are swift to help if anything doesn’t seem right. Vegetarians and those on a gluten-free diet are well catered for, as are dog owners and rugby fans (see Twitter for match viewing plans.) + Unhurried, friendly service - Some fiddlier food combinations don’t gel

7B Randolph Place, West End (Map 4: B1, 5) 0131 539 8100, harrysbarandgrill.co.uk | Closed Mon | £12 (set lunch) / £21.50 (dinner)

The latest addition to the Shilling Group stable of bars has turned convivial West End basement bar Harry’s into a versatile hangout which does an agreeable job of appealing to as many constituencies as it can. As a boozy after-work hangout or a place to go and take in a Six Nations game on the big screen, it does the job through a reasonable selection of beers, cocktails, whiskies and gins. As a place to dine, meanwhile, it’s very well recommended, with the raised dining area of leather-seated booths offering a more formal atmosphere. The food is excellent; a salted, delicately battered calamari is served with wasabi and tabasco on the side, while the braised lamb shank is rich and tender. The sturdy homemade beefburger is accompanied by an inventive chorizo ketchup, while a range of Josper-grilled dinner dishes include whole poussin or sea bass and various steaks, with an optional half lobster (add £15) on the side. + For lovers of smoking areas, the space out back is one of Edinburgh’s best - It’s a West End bar with West End prices to match

Drop by for a selection of gin, wine, cocktails, champagne and curated whiskies all at prices to smile about. Find us in a beautiful Georgian townhouse in the heart of the city.

Heads & Tales 1a Rutland Place, West End (Map 4: B1, 19) 0131 229 3402, headsandtalesbar. com | No Kids | Closed Mon | £8 (dinner)

G.I.Y might not be the word on everyone’s lips down your local B&Q, but give it time. At Heads and Tales, G.I.Y stands for Gin It Yourself, a neat ‘make your own cocktail’ concept that happily overrides any bafflement at the substantial range of gins atop the back bar. During the day, the space is home to the Edinburgh Gin distillery, whose working stills twinkle prettily from behind the main seating area. It’s all wrapped up in a quirky subterranean space; just enough prohibition-style touches to not be annoying; and a compact but perfectly acceptable menu of bar nibbles (the mug of fish and chips goes down particularly well). With evening-only opening, a no children policy, a hard to find entrance (keep your eyes peeled for a solitary, lit plaque above a staircase) and lovely, lovely gins, this feels like a forbidden, adult pleasure – in short, like you’ve died and gone to Gin Heaven. + G–I–Y. Sing it with me - No beer on draft. Ah well, have a gin

24 Royal Terrace, Edinburgh, EH7 5AH e: reservations@24royalterrace.com t: 0131 297 2424 : www.fb.com/24royalterrace : @24royalterrace

www.24royalterrace.com Opening Hours: Sunday - Thursday 11am - Midnight Friday - Saturday 11am - 1am

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EDINBURGH

Hemma

✱ NEW Hoot The Redeemer

75 Holyrood Road, Old Town (Map 2B: D3, 31) 0131 629 3327, bodabar.com/hemma | £13.50 (lunch) / £13.50 (dinner)

7 Hanover Street, New Town (Map 1A: D5, 65) 0131 220 0920, hoottheredeemer.com | No Kids | £7.50 for a cocktail

Now with five other Nordic restaurants and bars around the city, Hemma is part of Anna and Mike Christopherson’s efforts to show Edinburgh a slice of Sweden. Doing its best to blend into the glass office complex next door, at first impressions Hemma struggles to look, what you might consider, typically Swedish. While ornamentation is kept to a minimum, their rarely unoccupied sofa area and charming floral wallpaper reflect Hemma’s translation, meaning ‘at home’. The true colours of Sweden shine through in their menu, which is largely dominated by fish and seafood, but offers other wholesome options, such as chicken skewers with sumac, giant couscous and mint yoghurt. Apart from Idun’s Swedish ciders, the Scandanavian tipples are much like the décor – minimal. But, the zesty cocktails, including a rum based Fife Cherry Bomb, are enough to be getting on with. + Ideal for gathering all your mates together - Service can be a little sloppy

Anyone who’s familiar with Queen Street’s bustling basement cocktail bar Panda & Sons will know on sight that the recently opened Hoot the Redeemer comes from the same stable. A rarity in that it’s a great bar just a few steps off Princes Street, it’s entered via a dark stairway with a disguised doorway – in this case a dummy fortune teller in a glass case which lights up and assails the customer with pearls of debatable wisdom in a broad Scottish accent. The funfair theme continues inside: DJs play on Friday and Saturday from a modified Punch & Judy stall, a vending machine sells alcoholic ice creams, and ‘Pinch ‘n’ Sip’ is an old-fashioned claw machine which lets you play to choose your own cocktail flavours. Decked out with cinema seats and church pews, the room is atmospheric, but the cocktails are intended to be fun and unpretentious – the retro-themed list includes Days of Thunder (vodka, Blue Curacao, raspberries and soda) and Hopped Grasshopper, a fusion of crème de menthe and cacao with added hops. + Fun, unpretentious cocktail speakeasy - Trying to avoid arguing with the ‘fortune teller’ as you figure out the way in

Henricks Bar & Bistro 1 Barclay Place, Southside (Map 3A: B2, 24) 0131 229 2442, henricksbar.com | £12.50 (set lunch) / £16.50 (dinner)

Refurbished in early 2016, new lighting and flooring and a lick of paint have given this venue a warmer, brighter, feel while retaining a relaxed, comfortable atmosphere. Catering to a broad market, including family groups, locals and theatregoers, the menu straddles the pub and bistro genres. Haggis bonbons, fish and chips or well-flavoured burgers will keep the comfort food brigade happy while salmon terrine, gnocchi or witch sole should appeal to those wanting something lighter. Desserts are more adventurous; peanut butter parfait is pleasingly light though a salted maple panacotta with pecan ‘jam’ is perhaps less well judged. There’s a strong emphasis on high quality drinks, with a good selection of cocktails, gins and whiskies and a keenly priced wine list which includes helpful descriptions of the varietals available. Wine buffs should note that Henricks hosts regular wine society evenings, winery dinners and whisky and cigar evenings. + Menu to suit most tastes and a wine list to match - Food doesn’t always hit the high notes

The Holyrood 9A 9a Holyrood Road, Old Town (Map 2B: B3, 21) 0131 556 5044, theholyrood.co.uk | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

The dark wooden bar spans almost the entire length of the main room at the Holyrood 9A – and its length is well utilised, with 25 taps of rotating global and local brews served in four different sizes for optimal sampling. Beer also runs the length of the menu, cropping up in beer-battered onion rings and, more unusually, in mayo, mustard and ice-cream. Bulky burgers in 16 meaty and veggie styles – from classic beef and barbecue to flat cap mushroom, sunblushed tomato and mozzarella – are served in the obligatory brioche bun, on an optional board. Those who want to buck the trend for having their food served in tins, jars or bits of old bric-a-brac can request it on a plate, just like the good old days. Bar games also step back in time, with classics like Connect 4 to help while away a Sunday afternoon over a Bloody Mary – your hangover should cope with the competition after a vast Holyrood breakfast. + Great beer selection - Which beer to choose?

The Last Word Saloon: excellent, unusual cocktails by the fireside

The Huxley 1–3 Rutland Street, West End (Map 4: B1, 20) 0131 229 3402, thehuxley.co.uk | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

The Huxley’s huge windows dominate its little corner and at first glance everything is as you’d expect from a West End bar – a little bit glitzy, a little bit glam, a little bit Friday night. While the menu’s current focus on burgers and dogs seems at odds with the surroundings, sharing a kitchen with sister restaurant Kyloe means good meat – crumbly, well-seasoned burgers that hold their own against a heavy load of toppings. (And watch out for a menu update planned for the spring.) With rooms upstairs, they open early for a busy breakfast service which is popular with tourists and locals alike. Brews like Schiehallion and Angry Orchard cider make an appearance at the taps and there’s a short but classy cocktail list. Are there more cutting-edge bars in town? Sure, but the Huxley knows its stuff and does its stuff well. + Friendly, good-looking West End bar ... - . . . which doesn’t hold a lot of surprises

Indigo Yard 7 Charlotte Lane, West End (Map 4: B1, 8) 0131 220 5603, indigoyardedinburgh. co.uk | £10 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Indigo Yard has survived, and thrived, for 20 years, despite being hidden down a side alley in the West End. This is largely thanks to the attention it pays to its customers and their desires. Never ones to miss a trend, they are into craft beer in a big way, with 27 lines, including four rotating brews, to choose from. The artisan feeling is also reflected in the décor – distressed wood and leather dominate the interesting double-height, split-level space. The atmosphere is welcoming and the menu offers classic dishes done well, from fish and chips or steak pie and mash to haddock risotto with a nicely poached egg. The starters are on the small side, but great lunch and dinner deals and a generous sharing trio of banoffee pie, chocolate bread and butter pudding, and black forest cheesecake make up for it. + The cocktail menu includes a handy glass guide - West End prices on the wine list

✱ Jeremiah’s Taproom

The Jolly Botanist

7–8 Elm Row, New Town (Map 5B: A6, 34) 0131 556 8201, jeremiahstaproom. co.uk | £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

256–260 Morrison Street, West End (Map 4: B2, 69) 0131 228 5596, thejollybotanist. co.uk |

As the craft beer revolution has gathered pace, so has this pub’s inventiveness in helping you enjoy it. Not content with serving three or four cask beers and over half a dozen kegs, they now offer their draughts in two-pint cartons to take away, plus over 40 varieties of cans and bottles in a brightly lit (and wisely locked) chiller cabinet. There’s an American diner feel to the menu with a wide range of burgers and smoked bratwurst hot dogs vying for your attention, all served with skinny fries. The Simon Howie-supplied beef patties can be swapped out for chicken breast or veggie burger, though meat-avoiders may struggle to see past the mac and cheese, breaded and served in a brioche bun. There’s a modest wine list, an above-average cocktail list and it’s kid and dog-friendly too. + Astonishingly wide choice of beers - Calorie-counters may struggle with the menu

Slowly, slowly, Haymarket is undergoing something of a rejuvenation and nowhere is that more apparent than in this splashy reboot of the old Spider’s Web. The Jolly Botanist is an upmarket gin bar, with an impressive multi-page gin menu taking drinkers through over 50 brands of gin, with recipes torn from old books decorating the walls with suggestions for classic gin cocktails. Your average G&T is mostly T – so (rightly) the gin list also suggests a tonic to accompany your tipple as well as a recommended garnish to set the whole thing off: Caorunn with Fentimans tonic and a slice of apple, or Rock Rose with Fever-Tree and a sprig of rosemary being particularly successful pairings. While the decorative whimsy doesn’t always convince, it’s a great option for an after-work or gin-soaked afternoon, perhaps with a sharing platter or two. + Gin, gin’s the thing - Can get very noisy

NEW The Joker and the Thief

Joseph Pearce’s

71 Elm Row, Leith, Leith (Map 5B: A5, 24) 0131 556 3274 | No Kids

23 Elm Row, New Town (Map 5B: A5, 32) 0131 556 4140, bodabar.com/josephpearces | £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

The arrival of the Joker and the Thief in what used to be the Brunswick Lounge is yet another example of the Leith Walk area sprucing itself up. Musical links extend beyond the bar’s name (based on a Dylan lyric) to the décor, with dozens of framed prints of iconic musicians covering the walls. There are eight draughts, plus a further two hand-pumped beers on rotation (usually listed on the blackboard outside). When combined with another 30 to 40 mainly Scottish craft beers and ciders in the fridge, you shouldn’t struggle for choice. There’s no menu but pizzas from nearby Origano can be ordered at the bar. The snug area at the back can be hired for free and although dogs are welcome, your kiddies are not. Some traditions don’t change. + Great place for decent beer and chat - Avoid Wednesday quiz night if you’re after a quiet pint

Locals treat JP’s like a second living room – somewhere to bring the kids during the day, to catch up with friends in the evening, to gather with family over brunch, or even to do a spot of exercise (a jogging club of regulars meet every week). It’s a perfect example of the reinvention of the old man’s boozer for the top of the Walk’s bright young (and not-so-young) things. Part of Edinburgh’s mini-chain of Swedish bars, the menu bears a Scandi influence – expect smörgåsbords (so much more fun to say than ‘sharing platters’), hasselback potatoes and, of course, meatballs served with lingonberry jam. The cocktail list is interesting, with aquavit making the odd appearance, most notably in the Hot Bjorn Borg which packs a chilli punch. Keep your eyes peeled for regular Swedish events too, like August’s traditional crayfish parties.

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BARS & PUBS

In association with

EDINBURGH

+ The Hot Bjorn Borg cocktail (aquavit,

✱ The Last Word Saloon

NEW Leith Depot

chillis, lychee & lime) - Boring beer selection

44 St Stephen Street, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B2, 24) 0131 225 9009, lastwordsaloon.com | £8 (lunch) / £8 (dinner)

138–140 Leith Walk, Leith (Map 5B: A1, 5) 0131 555 4738, leithdepot.com | £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Juniper 20 Princes Street, City Centre (Map 1B: B6, 52) 0131 556 4901, juniperedinburgh. co.uk | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Situated next to Twenty Princes Street (the Royal British Hotel’s in-house restaurant), Juniper stretches across the front of the building, cleverly maximising the views of the iconic Old Town skyline. It’s strikingly styled – although perhaps a little over-designed for some tastes – with different areas featuring banquettes, booths or plush circular sofas. Given the Juniper moniker, it’s no surprise that gin features heavily in the cocktail list, with recommended serves using an impressive array of herbs, fruits and spices. The signature Juniper cocktail has a light, citrus kick topped with apple foam, while those looking for something darker and more mysterious should opt for the Darkest Night, featuring sloe gin, vanilla tincture and cold-brewed citrus tea. To soak up those cocktails the menu offers hearty ‘street food with a twist’; from the luxe comfort of lobster mac ’n’ cheese to native oysters or ox cheek and brie croquettes. + Great range of gins and well-made cocktails - Bar staff can seem a bit disinterested

The Kilderkin 67 Canongate, Old Town (Map 2B: D2, 35) 0131 556 2101, kilderkin.co.uk | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Although not the most glamorous from the outside, The Kilderkin grows on you the more time you spend in their traditionally decked out surroundings. Soothing sounds of Fleetwood Mac and other pop rock favourites play, reflecting the record covers glowing under retro red lamps on the wall. Split into two rooms, it caters for the regulars glued to their creaky bar stools, the students, the quiz goers and the pizza lovers – with £1 pizzas on Mondays, can you blame them? Amongst 155 different rums on offer, they have squeezed in some local brews from Stewart’s Brewery, an affordable selection of wine and the odd cocktail. The kitchen adds their own flair to popular pub grub, using chorizo and black pudding sausages for bangers and mash, and spiced rice for the veggie bhajee burger. + Chatty, knowledgeable staff - 155 rums means the hangover is inevitable

A refreshing alternative to the glitz and suits of the George Street scene, this excellent low-lit basement bar gets the balance just right between taking their cocktails very seriously, while keeping the atmosphere pretension-free. It’s one locals recommend to visiting friends because it offers the double whammy of grown-up, fancy drinks, served in a relaxing stoneclad, sheepskin and leather-lined hideyhole. The Neko to Nezumi is an example of the bar’s many wonderful whisky-based concoctions; a heady hot drink for two people, blending Ardmore single malt with vermouth and spices, filtered through a Japanese coffee siphon. Mezcal and tequila sit beautifully alongside strawberry jam, lime juice and rose liqueur in the Same But Different (£7.50), Peroni Red and Heaven Hill make for a moreish boilermaker (£5) or there’s fernet, pisco or poppy liqueur for sipping. See Facebook for updates on whisky and rum club events, plus live music nights. + Delicious, unusual drinks in a comfortable spot - Eat first as food is limited to cheese boards and snacks

Lebowskis 18 Morrison Street, West End (Map 4: C2, 46) 0131 466 1779, lebowskis.co.uk | £5 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Lebowskis, just off Lothian Road with its concert venues and cinemas, is an Edinburgh must-visit, renowned for its relaxed, laid-back vibe, just the way the Dude himself would like it. Wooden floors and plain tables keep things simple and there are humorous touches like the gilt picture frame around the TV screen in the main dining area. As well as its famous long list of White Russians – most asked for is the Big Lebowski, a double whammy of vodka, coffee liqueur, milk and cream – there are beers, wines and a specially devised cocktail menu including the fruity Merry Berry and marmaladey Burnt Ma Toast. It’s best to be hungry if you want to do justice to the mighty burgers: from seasonal venison to slow-cooked pork, lamb kofta to tasty vegetarian. With weekend brunches, £5 weekday lunches, pub quizzes and live music, Lebowskis mixes things up, drawing in crowds day and night. + The Vedgy Wedgy burger - Which White Russian to choose?

The changing face of Leith’s pub landscape continues with the rough and ready former Meridian beautifully updated as the bright and breezy Leith Depot. The interior is pleasant and welcoming, with high windows, sanded wooden floors, bright-painted walls, steel support beams and reclaimed wooden chairs, while the blackboard-chalked list of craft beers is worth continued exploration. There’s a real community focus, with the upstairs performance area playing host to gigs by local talent, open mic nights on monthly Thursdays and community group meetings, while the food is overtly intended to emphasise healthy if hearty choices. The menu focuses on seafood and vegan and vegetarian options, which includes good, old-fashioned beer-battered haddock with handmade chips and smoked garlic aioli, Scottish mussels by the quarter, half or full kilo, and a fresh fish special of the day. Elsewhere, dishes like the vegan spelt gnocchi and the inventive leek fritters served with lemon zest cream and a fried egg deserve to entice non-meat eaters from outside the Leith heartland. + Great community local with strong seafood, vegetarian and vegan options - It’s stepped into a crowded Leith Walk market

The Lioness of Leith 21–25 Duke Street, Leith, Leith (Map 5B: B1, 1) 0131 629 0580 | £14 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Few pub transformations are executed as skilfully as that of Duke Street’s Lioness of Leith. Reinvented in 2013, its dark stone interior is enlivened by

a bewildering array of eye-catching decoration including a glitterball, chandelier, mounted fake animal heads and trails of pretty white lights. The extensive menu changes seasonally and is very much in gastropub territory with starters including chilli-shredded pork empanada and salt and pepper squid with tempura prawns. There’s organic pie of the day, burger of the day and meaty temptations such as Toulouse sausage casserole, though veggie, vegan and gluten-free options are available and well labelled. The Lioness has a solid range of noteworthy beers including three guest taps and their own Lioness beer (a light, hoppy Belhaven-brewed lager), nearly 50 different cocktails which are particularly popular during weekend brunch and a Majestic-supplied wine list that is pretty decent. + A beacon of colourful light in a sea of grim boozers - The seating can be a little austere

The Lucky Liquor Co 39a Queen Street, New Town (Map 1A: C4, 77) 0131 226 3976, luckyliquorco.com | No Kids

Forget the superstition – as all adherents to the cult of the cocktail know, 13 is the luckiest number especially when it refers to the lucky #13 at Lucky Liquor. 13 cocktails on the list, 13 bottles on the back bar, and a new list every quarter. Keeping it tight means creative, classy choices. There’s also an element of chance – if you request your off-list favourite and they have the ingredients in, fine; if they don’t, then you’ll have had yer chips. (Fear not though, there’s a compact wine list, the usual mixers plus a range of bottled beers and two on the tap – you won’t go thirsty.) Some elements

The Leith Beer Co. The King’s Wark 36 The Shore, Leith (Map 5A: C1, 16) 0131 554 9260, thekingswark.com

58 The Shore, Leith (Map 5A: C2, 18) 0131 554 2425, leithbeerco-edinburgh.co.uk | £5.99 (set lunch) / £11 (dinner)

This much-loved bar – a low ceilinged, dark wooded pub on the waterfront – changed hands at the time of going to press, after Lesley Currie and Mike Greig handed over the reins to PG Taverns in March 2016. PG Taverns (the people behind Haymarket’s busy and successful Jolly Botanist) say the Wark’s loyal customers can expect ‘business as usual’ for now. In the King’s Wark, that generally means excellent pub cooking, an emphasis on Scottish produce – particularly from the sea – and a uniquely cosy, smart but not posh setting. When the snow is falling outside on The Shore, and the red wine is flowing indoors, it’s old country-pub ambience is hard to beat (it’s one of Leith’s oldest buildings, built in 1438). Stone walls add romance and old world charm to their Sunday roasts, hearty hangover breakfasts and unhurried dinners – all round, big boots to fill in this Leith institution. + One of Leith’s best-loved bars - Everyone loves change, right?

While the craft beer movement marches on, this no-fuss pub on The Shore might wrongfoot some customers with its title – it’s less of a specialist beer haven, and more an unpretentious chain pub doing good bargains on food and drinks. Bottles of Erdinger, Blue Moon and Raspberry Bacchus sit alongside Guinness and Tennent’s on tap (the latter makes The Shore feel like a student union at £2.49 a pint on Mondays, Tuesdays and Wednesdays), or there are also earlyweek deals on wine (£7.99 a bottle). Their aubergine and beetroot curry is a good veggie option among the pub grub standards (steak and ale pie, scampi and chips, lasagne with garlic bread) plus there’s a budget lunch special of a sandwich, side and drink for £5.99 every day, which is popular with locals. Thursday nights fill up fast for quiz nights, as do their outside tables on sunny afternoons. + Cheap and cheerful pub grub - Slow-night slumps can lack atmosphere The List Eating & Drinking Guide 29

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of the mix are homemade, like their liqueurs, many of which are available on off-sale to take home and try your hand at knocking up a lucky #13 of your own. (But drink responsibly folks.) + Original, innovative cocktails and a pool table! - Lack of bar seating

Makar’s Gourmet Mash Bar 9 North Bank Street, Old Town (Map 2A: C2, 21) 0131 226 1178, makars-rest. com | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Centrally located at the top of the Mound and a short hop from the Royal Mile, the Makar’s Rest has recently rebranded as a gourmet mash bar. Perhaps not the most glamorous choice in the face of a recent spate of gourmet burger bars and the like, but look below the surface: there’s an interesting and affordable line in traditional and bespoke Scottish dishes. Eye-catching options include a tender braised ox cheek in Stewart’s Stout gravy (Stewart’s are well-represented amid a good line in craft ales and produce a Makar’s Rest lager), a plate of AJ Hornig’s haggis with turnip mash and a honey and thyme sauce, and ‘Bonnie Prince Charlie chicken’ with whisky, mustard and cream sauce. There are four hearty mash sides to choose from, including mustard or black pudding options, while rösti stacks take the place of the traditional burger bun. With a small but bright beer garden to the side, this tourist-friendly choice deserves exploration by anyone. + Good Scottish food options at a reasonable price - The focus on mash underplays the quality of the rest of each dish

Panda & Sons: tucked in a New Town basement, this prohibition-themed cocktail bar offers unusual concoctions

Malone’s Irish Bar 14 Forrest Road, Old Town (Map 2A: C4, 60) 0131 226 5954, malonesedinburgh. com | £5 (set lunch) / £13 (dinner)

With live music every night, regular sponsorship of local university sport teams, lots of student-focused nights, a reliable pint of Guinness and a good value bar menu, it’s safe to say the craic is strong in this one. Sure, Malone’s is far from sophisticated – in fact, in terms of décor it’s a little rough round the edges – but they know what they’re doing and they do it well. The huge bar really comes to life during big sporting fixtures, when rugby as well as Gaelic football and hurling draw in the crowds, but there’s always a genuine welcome from the friendly bar staff who take their responsibilities towards the younger drinking crowd seriously. Foodwise, the focus is on burgers, nachos and sharing platters but there’s also Irish soda bread to accompany the soup and a slowcooked Irish stew for those craving a more traditional taste of home. + Genuinely friendly welcome - It could do with a freshen-up

This established pub, recently under new ownership, is still developing its identity as a contemporary bar/restaurant with a lively neighbourhood feel. Located on busy West Maitland Street, not far from Haymarket station, it’s the sort of place locals meet up in and tourists will drop by for a drink or a meal. The emphasis is on freshly cooked, quality food using Scottish ingredients, with a menu featuring mussels, Stornoway black pudding, ribeye steak, game pie, burgers and sea bass. Vegetarian options, from tarts to burgers and pasta, are also available. Alongside an evolving list of beers, wines and spirits, (including a wide range of whiskies, gins, craft beers and occasionally guest casks) they’ve just introduced a cocktail menu. Downstairs is available for private parties, meetings and events, and the friendly staff here make a big effort to create a welcoming atmosphere. + Friendly atmosphere for locals and visitors - Busy location

Montpeliers of Bruntsfield The Mash Tun 154 Easter Road, Leith (Map 5B: C4, 42) 0131 661 3896, mashtunedinburgh.co.uk |

As a sports bar, the Mash Tun can sometimes be overlooked. That’s a pity because it’s actually a great neighbourhood bar with a friendly vibe and good pub grub. The drinks menu is expansive, including almost two dozen malt whiskies from all over Scotland and around a dozen drinkable wines, all available by the glass or bottle. The beers, all on draught, are a mix of classic and craft. The burgers are some of the best to be found on this side of Edinburgh. Some might say the best aspect is the deals; there is one every night (and day, if you count breakfast and lunch deals), ranging from 2-4-1 pizzas on the quiz night to a Sunday roast for £10. The space itself is large and can feel kind of empty at times; however sporting events always bring a crowd, especially in the summer when there is seating outside. + Burgers, and watching Wimbledon in the summer - Table service pretty much non-existent

The Mercat Bar & Restaurant 28 West Maitland Street, West End (Map 4: B2, 68) 0131 225 8716, mercatbar.co.uk | £7.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

159–161 Bruntsfield Place, Southside See Bistros & Brasseries

✱ 99 Hanover Street 99 Hanover Street, New Town (Map 1A: D4, 92) 0131 225 8200, 99hanoverstreet. com | No Kids

Don’t let the deceptively plain exterior trick you. 99 Hanover’s sultry interior – an exposed brick wall, softened by ruby velvet cushioning, mood lighting and multicoloured patchwork sofas – is anything but boring. This quirky atmosphere comes to life with a daily DJ set which proves particularly popular with young professionals on Friday and Saturday evenings. You can expect drinks that promise to be ‘10 out of 10 fun, 10 out of 5 value and x32 speed’. These are outlined in the foolproof drinks report which unpretentiously displays the ingredients and dilution of each cocktail, alongside an illustration of its vessel. A balanced blend of sweet and sour pervades the cocktail list, featuring drinks like Gin ‘N’ That containing mint, apricot preserve, lemon, crème de pêche and Tanqueray gin, and more unusual combinations which mix tequila and prosecco. If these don’t take your fancy, the spirited bartenders are more than happy to whip up the classics on request.

+ The go-to spot for kicking off the

weekend - Unless you’ve booked in advance, be

prepared to stand

NEW No 8 Lister Square 8 Lister Square, Quartermile, Old Town (Map 2A: B5, 63) 0131 229 4634, no8listersquare.co.uk | £13 (lunch) / £18.50 (dinner)

The Quartermile development may well split opinion right down the middle for its architectural style, but two points seem apparent regarding this new bar right at its heart. One, that despite its central location it’s in a most eerily quiet spot; and two, that No. 8 Lister Square is nonetheless something of an oasis, with two glass-fronted levels offering views out over the square amid comfortable seating, a pool table and televisions showing live sports. It’s both local hangout and destination, with regular live entertainment, a strong cocktail list and a packed but confidently prepared range of lunches, dinners and Sunday roasts. Dishes are rich but flavoursome, for example a starter of salty braised pig cheek medallions served with a sticky cider jus and a chilled apple compote, or a main of chicken Balmoral creatively presented as a roulade. The pineapple and rum tarte tatin served with salt caramel ice-cream is pleasingly indulgent but created with care and consideration, a microcosm of this large but comforting local. + Plenty of outdoor seating and a cosiness which belies its size - In an eerily quiet spot at night

Nobles Café, Bar & Restaurant 44a Constitution Street, Leith, Leith (Map 5A: D2, 15) 0131 629 7215, noblesbarleith.co.uk | £16 (lunch) / £24 (dinner)

This is surely one of Leith’s best looking pubs with its beautiful turquoise stainedglass, Victorian fixtures and dark wood surrounds. But the management didn’t want to rest on its old-world charms – and it certainly has them in spades. Instead, they have sectioned off a back area into a demure bistro, where once there were sofas for lounging on. The cooking aims for the spot between gastropub and fine dining, which sometimes feels over-ambitious but, overall, the eating – and drinking –

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experience is a very good one. Their late serving times are worth remembering too – they do food until 10.30pm on Fridays and Saturdays. Brunch is highly recommended – sweetcorn fritters with poached eggs and bacon, brioche French toast with labna and berry compote, or green chilli and chorizo scrambled eggs keep things interesting, and the team of laid-back bar staff will season your Bloody Mary and Bloody Marias just how you like them. + Sophisticated, good-looking neighbourhood pub - It’s popular, so drop-ins won’t always get a table at night

North Bridge Brasserie 20 North Bridge, Old Town See Bistros & Brasseries

Old Chain Pier 32 Trinity Crescent, Newhaven, Leith (Map 5A: A2, off) 0131 552 4960, oldchainpier.com | £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Just along from the lighthouse at Newhaven harbour, this welcoming waterside pub has excellent views of Fife, and if you get a window table, waves lapping on the beach below. Like its relatively new sister pub, Bar Brig on Leith Walk, there’s lots of rustic wood inside, with a subtle marine-style charm. Seafood is a highlight, with kilo pots of Scottish mussels, bowls of chunky Cullen skink or fish and chips all on the menu, alongside burgers, grazing platters, a stew of the day and a delicious vegan melanzane involtini featuring aubergines, cashews, coriander and mozzarella. Quiz nights draw big crowds, as do their bargain kir royales, bellinis and glasses of prosecco (expect change from a fiver), and their Facebook page is regularly updated with folk sessions, themed dinners and afternoon tea specials too. A recommended spot for Newhaven neighbours, or a daytrip feeling for everyone else. + Blowing the cobwebs away with a weekend brunch outdoors - Toilets are downstairs, a drawback for anyone with restricted mobility

The Orchard 1/2 Howard Place, Canonmills (Map 1B: A1, 1) 0131 550 0850, theorchardbar. co.uk | £16 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Over the road from the Tanfield office complex and a few minutes along from the entrance to the Botanic Gardens, this pub goes for a classic, traditional feel, with a dark wood bar, pot plants and multi-coloured stained-glass panels. The clientele is a mix of staff from nearby offices, maybe looking for a chicken and Ayrshire bacon ciabatta sandwich on their lunch hour, or a decompressing glass of wine after work; rugby fans watching the Six Nations games on the telly and trying out the Scottish and UK guest ales; or locals in at the weekend for Sunday roasts (£16.50) or a drawn-out meal of steak and merlot pie followed by the excellent ice-cream from Over Langshaw Farm in the Borders. Squashy couches in the back are good for lounging and catching up, or there are window seats with a street view for people watching. + Decent pub food in classic surroundings - All eyes turn to the tellys on sports nights

The Other Place 2–4 Broughton Road, Canonmills (Map 1B: B2, 11) 0131 556 1024, theotherplaceedinburgh.com | £15 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

The friendly people behind this unpretentious Canonmills pub want to make it ‘feel like your second home’

– hence the name the Other Place (which could also be a reference to the other pub at the same crossroads, diagonally opposite). The décor is somewhere in between Edinburgh and New York; there’s a historical map of the neighbourhood on the ceiling, with references to the Big Apple all over the menu and bare brick walls. The menu has plenty of American nods too; bowls of brisket beer chilli with melted cheese, pulled pork burritos, hot dogs with barbecue sauce can all be accompanied with fixins of slaw, cajun fries or mini portions of macaroni cheese. The brave can take on The Other Challenge – devouring an Edinburgh Man Vs Foodstyle proposition involving a monstersized triple-chilli cheeseburger and a mountainous pile of sides in under 20 minutes (only eight people have managed in 3 years, apparently.) They also do 120 beers, homemade ice-cream sundaes and bargain £3.50 prosecco with weekend brunch. + A warm welcome from the bar staff - Vegetarian choices are limited

✱ The Ox 49–51 London Street, New Town (Map 1B: C4, 17) 0131 556 9808, theoxedinburgh.com | £12 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

On entering the Ox, you’d be forgiven for thinking it’s just a smart, modern bar but raise your eyes to the mezzanine-level seating and kitchen above and you get an inkling of its true potential. Proudly selfidentifying as a gastropub, the pub part takes place at street level and the craft beer box is very much ticked with Punk IPA and Schiehallion on tap and a good range of bottles. The spacious upstairs area is slightly more sedate in atmosphere and much more gastro. Starters and mains are supplemented by ‘small things’, an assortment of hard-to-resist snacks including smoked applewood and sun-blushed tomato arancini and ‘bigger things’, including steaks and an excellent handmade burger. If that’s not enough choice, there’s a short specials board. The mainly European wine list is compact but varied and the ports and sherries are given prominent billing on the dessert menu to lead you further into temptation. + Great range of small plates if you’re feeling peckish - No cocktails means a walk to George Street for your mojito

Palm Court The Balmoral Hotel, 1 Princes Street, New Town See Cafés

Panda & Sons 79 Queen Street, New Town (Map 1A: B4, 41) 0131 220 0443, pandaandsons.com | No Kids | £5.90 (lunch) / £5.90 (dinner)

This dimly lit basement bar invites everyone – except the strictly forbidden hens and stags – to escape the outside world inside a prohibition-themed vintage barbershop. Everything from the speakeasy façade, to the masquerading bookcase door and the old-fashioned hairdryer lamp screams exuberance, and the fun doesn’t stop there. The formidable cocktails with punning names such as Juan Direction and Monet Talks are garnished with the likes of unexpected paprika and burning incense sticks attached by mini-clothes pegs. Just try not to burn your cheek when you take a sip! These experimental concoctions may not be to everyone’s taste, but the Birdcage – theatrically presented in a glass dome filled with whisky, rhubarb and lemongrass shrub aroma – certainly turns a few heads. The staff encourage a quick turnaround policy although the complimentary salted popcorn may entice you to stay for another round. + Mellis cheeseboards - Can feel intimidating if you don’t have cocktail expertise

✱ Paradise Palms 41 Lothian Street, Old Town (Map 2A: C4, 52) 0131 225 4186, theparadisepalms. co.uk | No food Sun/Mon | £7 (lunch) / £7 (dinner)

Paradise Palms’ neon signs, disco balls and cocktail lounge vibe may transport

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you back to the beautifully tasteless 80s, but there’s nothing flavourless about the menu. Both drinks and food are carefully considered and the staff are passionate about sharing their favourite dishes, hot sauces and drinks. Choosing between the cocktails is a tough job, but is aided by enlightening descriptions. The bright blue Miami Nice is, as the menu promises, like a kiss from Don Johnson and the Buckfast Daiquiri will take your taste buds on a trip. With regular DJs and cabaret nights, this is a party bar for more than just the local students and the vegetarian (and often vegan) menu introduced in early 2016 is a far cry from the rabbit food stereotype. The corn fritters could rival the mighty bacon roll in curing a hangover and the nachos are piled high with fresh salsa and flavour. + They even manage to make Buckfast taste good - Food only served until 8.30pm, so get there early

Pickles 56a Broughton Street, New Town (Map 1B: C4, 19) 0131 557 5005, getpickled. co.uk |

Tucked away in a basement at the bottom of Broughton St, Pickles has been quietly chugging along for the past three years, prized among the city’s in-the-know noshers. There’s mix and match platters of cheeses, meats, and breads; a sizeable list of pâtés, pickles, chutneys and relishes; and a decent, affordable wine list. Preserves are sourced from Fenton Barns in East Lothian, and are precisely arranged alongside bottles of wine on neat shelves behind and around the bar, creating an intimate, cosy space that hums with lively chatter and seems to glow from each nook and cranny. You’ll

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OX184 184 Cowgate, Old Town (Map 2A: D3, 87) 0131 226 1645, ox184.co.uk | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

The smell of the wood fire that greets you when you enter OX184 lends a real warmth to the large, slightly industrial space and the meats grilled over said fire are definitely designed to give comfort. Quality burgers, long boys and steaks follow juicy prawn and chorizo skewers or rib tips. Chunky chips would perhaps do a better job of standing up to the meaty dishes than skinny fries, but the heart of the dishes is right – and will be right there for you up to 2.30am, which is always a good time for a sundae with a giant toasted marshmallow. Like its Fuller Thomson buddies – the Holyrood 9A, the Southern and Red Squirrel – OX184 is big into its beer and much more booze beyond, including a huge range of whisky (the list runs to over 100). The cocktail list is another highlight of the drinking experience here, featuring classics with a twist and a beverage named after each of New York’s five boroughs, of which they’d be surely proud. + Good times and good drinks abound - Paper tray liners, sauce and serrated knives don’t mix

Get your fill of the tastiest live comedy Food served Thursday-Saturday nights and also Sunday afternoon SCOTLAND’S FAVOURITE COMEDY CLUB

LIVE COMEDY 7 NIGHTS A WEEK

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feel very at home. Note: no reservations, except for private bookings. + The ambience, and the pâté (you get to take the jar home if you don’t finish) - House wine

and is planned to reflect the easy-going, friendly community Portobello Palm Tree has established since its opening in 2015. [Not open for a full review at time of going to press – check list.co.uk/food for updates.]

Pilgrim 3 Robertsons Close, Cowgate, Old Town (Map 2B: A3, 12) 0131 557 3768, pilgrimbar.co.uk | No Kids | £7 (dinner)

With a bar built from retro-style suitcases and a choice of old cinema chairs or sofas wrapped in denim jeans to lounge on, at first sight, Pilgrim’s sustainability ethos is on point. Whether or not their choice of local beers is a conscious effort to maintain their eco-friendly vision, their stock of Innis & Gunn and Williams Bros products shows off some of Scotland’s best brews. However, Pilgrim’s offerings on the large are curated to keep their loyal student clientele happy; cheap spirits, wines and a very boozy Long Island Tea make a cheerful start to any night out. Hearty plates of mac ’n’ cheese, cottage pie and nachos are guaranteed to fill hungry tums, but the absence of a chef means that if things are busy, the bar staff may have to close the kitchen early. + A worthy Cowgate pub-crawl stop - The stunt videos on repeat get a little tedious

NEW The Portobello Palm Tree 87 Portobello High Street (Map 5B: C5, off) 0131 657 5669

Portobello beach is many wonderful things, but palm tree-laden is not one of them. So when sitting under a palm tree is called for, head to the cocktail garden of the Portobello Palm Tree for a relaxing pint, a colourful cocktail and, during the summer season, a bite to eat from the grill shack out back. Wooden decking, picnic table seating and umbrellas fill, but don’t cram, this sheltered, sun-catching space, while a laid-back atmosphere pervades. Feeling peckish? The shack’s log-fired oven turns out bubbling, crisp, charred pizza, pairing happily with the many real ale choices on tap. A new menu for this fun pop-up is being launched in late spring 2016

TIPLIST FOR BEER • Andrew Usher & Co Usher’s boasts 20 taps, including six showcasing their own microbrewery lines. 20 • The Beer Kitchen by Innis & Gunn Innis & Gunn’s own brewery bar brings ﬁne food and good beers to Lothian Road. 20 • Guild of Foresters Convivial pub with a great range of Scottish ales and the best beer garden in Porty. 27 • The Guildford Arms One of Edinburgh’s most beautiful old bars, delivering a quality pint and decent pub grub. 27 • The Hanging Bat Beer, beer and barbecue (and more beer). You don’t have to have a beard to drink there, but it helps. 27 • The Joker and the Thief Comfortable bar with great selection of draught beer and Scottish craft beers. 28

The Potting Shed 32 Potterow, Southside (Map 2A: D5, 75) 0131 662 9788, thepottingshededinburgh.co.uk | £9.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Deliberately quirky, the décor of this gastropub puts a fresh spin on the gardening theme, with lampshades made from pots and garden pails, and an eclectic collection of gardening implements adorning the walls. Candlelight softens any rough edges and it’s all just the right side of kitsch (despite the addition of plastic pot plants). Drinks-wise, there’s a broader than average wine list, some creative cocktails and 18 draught or cask ales. The food is very definitely a notch above pub grub, in both ambition and execution. Try a beautifully presented ‘small plate’ of seared scallops, peas, chorizo and sea vegetables or crusty homemade bread with dips or soup. From the ‘big plates’, opt for the comfort of burgers or steak or try a Parma ham-wrapped monkfish with handmade gnocchi. With smart service, a well-crafted menu and a wide range of drinks, there’s plenty to bring you back to this patch of earth. + Beautifully presented food with seasonal and local options - Trying to read the beer blackboard from the back of the room

Queen’s Arms 49 Frederick Street, New Town (Map 1A: C4, 73) 0131 225 1045, queensarmsedinburgh.com | £12 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

This cosy downstairs bolthole appeals to a wide audience – it’s simultaneously relaxed enough for a pint while watching the match yet smart enough for some serious cocktail action or a meal out. The copper-topped horseshoe bar casts a cheerful glow, while the book-lined walls, squashy leather sofas and mismatched chandeliers contribute to its quirky charm. There are half a dozen local cask ales – plus all the usual mainstream options on draught -– along with a serious stash of malt whiskies, a decent wine selection and a cocktail list. While the menu may not stray far from the tried and tested, there are nods to local sourcing, such as the Breadwinner brioche burger buns and Loch Awe salmon. Sharing platters include meat, seafood or a pie of the day with all the trimmings, while the classic burger and fish and chip options come with homemade ketchup and mushy peas respectively. + Reliably good food, drink and service - It can be mobbed at times

Red Squirrel 21 Lothian Road, West End (Map 4: C1, 25) 0131 229 9933, redsquirreledinburgh. co.uk | £15 (set lunch) / £15 (set dinner)

Start with the beers, because here it’s all about the beers. With an ever-changing combination of local taps, The Red Squirrel pretty much guarantee you won’t get bored with your pint. Expect to see a good mix of brewers like Pilot, Williams and Alechemy on the taps, with guest appearances from Belgium and the US too. Staff know their stuff, so if you’re feeling frisky why not ask for them to sort you out with a taster flight? That said, this is a happy-go-lucky sort of place which wears its knowledge lightly – you don’t need a CAMRA membership to drink here. There’s a compact menu, mostly featuring decent quality burgers, kids are welcome and, on an extremely

Lioness of Leith (page 29): a slice of hipster Brooklyn in EH6

busy Thursday evening, service is slick. Oh, and bring the dog for a bowl of water and a biscuit. What more could you want from a city centre boozer? + Knowledgeable, friendly service - Wine list not quite as imaginative as the beer list

The Regent 2 Montrose Terrace, Old Town (Map 5B: C5, 38) 0131 661 8198, theregentbar. co.uk | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)| No Kids (under 5)

The Regent is a comfortable pub. It’s the kind of place you could happily lose an afternoon ensconced in one of the deep sofas reading your book or surfing the web on the free WiFi. Describing itself as a real ale gay pub, there are four real ales on tap, two of which rotate to accommodate guests. There’s also a broad selection of bottled beers, ciders, wines by the glass and non-alcoholic options. Grub comes in the form of quality pub eating. All the standards are well represented with options for vegetarians and vegans plus a selection of daily specials including fresh soup, tarts and curries. The portion of nachos is sizeable, scrumptious and arrives smothered in cheese, cream and guacamole. Sticky toffee pudding is surprisingly light and moist, delicately spiced with a gooey sauce and perfect when washed down with a great cup of coffee. + Comfy sofas might make it hard to ever leave - A little off the beaten track

Rick’s 55a Frederick Street, New Town See Bistros & Brasseries

Rollo 108 Raeburn Place, Stockbridge (Map 1A: A1, 2) 0131 332 1232 | No Kids | £16.50 (lunch) / £16.50 (dinner)

This place is mobbed most nights, proving there was definitely a gap in the market for a smart wine bar doing international tapas in Stockbridge. Locals slink into the narrow, mauve room, keeping its ten tables busy and the

atmosphere lively. Twenty well-picked European and New World wines are available by glass or carafe, (£4–£11.90), but it’s a shame not to sample the food too. Hand-cut chips with aioli, or baba ganoush with tortilla toast keep the wolf from the door, or there’s a sliding scale of bites (haggis bonbons with whisky marmalade, salt and pepper calamari toasts), bowls (Thai prawn curry, halloumi and cashew pomegranate tabbouleh) and plates (sea bream with courgette fritters, beef fillet with parmesan and basil oil, from over-theroad butcher, George Bower). The small space feels cosy and bustling, rather than cramped; a neat trick pulled off by the combination of a mirrored wall, soft lights and cheerful staff. + Red wine with a Sunday roast - On busy nights they might need your table back

The Roseleaf 23–24 Sandport Place, Leith (Map 5A: C2, 21) 0131 476 5268, roseleaf.co.uk | £14 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

The Roseleaf is well worth a visit for its chintzy blend of unhurried service, comforting stodge and fresh ingredients. It’s family run and the staff mean it when they say they ‘try to make everyone feel at home’ – the hungover will find juicy Stornoway black pudding and salty Bloody Marys; vegans can share copious Gorgeous Grazer platters (hummus, garlic mushrooms, salad, dhal, homemade bread and rye crisps), dairy avoiders can try beetroot burgers or ham hock terrine, and there’s a rhubarb and vanilla panacotta for the gluten-free. They have served signature ‘Pot-tails’ here for almost a decade now, and judging by popular Mad Hatters Tea Parties (potent cocktails in teapots, loaded cake stands of finger foods and home-baking, optional hats for borrowing), their twist on high tea is still a big draw. Board games and Scottish beers give extra reasons why it’s a good place for idling in. + Welcoming pub with thoughtfully made comfort food - Picking one thing from the broad menu

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BARS & PUBS

In association with

EDINBURGH

The Royal Dick Bar & Bistro 1 Summerhall, Southside See Bistros & Brasseries

NEW RT’s Bar 24 Royal Terrace, New Town (Map 5B: B6, 37) 0131 297 2424, 24royalterrace. co.uk

‘Our idea of a bar but not a “hotel bar”’ is how 24 Royal Terrace describe RT’s, and you do wonder if the stylish 16-bedroom hotel doth protest too much. Then again, this is a notable and distinctive spot in which to enjoy a drink, whether resident or not. An elevated cobble-way on Calton Hill where tall, elegant Georgian townhouses command tree-filtered views over north Edinburgh and Fife, the street itself has cachet. The street level bar first provides a flash of dynamic colour with its yellow, mauve and electric blue upholstery, before the eye is quickly drawn to the commanding presence of numerous works of 20th-century Scottish art. There are big Bellanies, two or three Howsons, a colourful Cunningham and pieces by John Bratty and Craigie Aitchison. Elsewhere in the hotel, further examples of owner Alan Campbell’s art collection are hung, with a book available to peruse in the bar that offers a detailed guide to each piece. The drinks list is confident and distinctive itself, with Innis & Gunn toasted IPA on tap, two dozen cocktails, wines and a notable collection of whiskies curated by Greg Dillon of greatdrams.com. Coffees, speciality teas and hot chocolates are also served, but no food other than nibbles. + Drinks in a mini-gallery of Scottish contemporary art - Just drinks, and few decent eating choices immediately nearby

The Safari Lounge 21 Cadzow Place, Abbeyhill (Map 5B: C5, off) 0131 661 4741, thesafarilounge. co.uk | £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

A quizzical eyebrow or two must have been raised when this safarithemed gastropub first opened its doors in Abbeyhill in 2013. Despite no opportunity being missed to continue with the African motif (including serving Mombasa Margaritas and Skeleton Coast punch), its quirky range of food, excellent selection of drinks and buzzy atmosphere combine to make a visit a seriously compelling proposition. With six permanent draught beers (including their own WEST Brewery lager) and a further four guest taps, you could be forgiven for overlooking the impressive Scottish and German bottled beer offerings. The short menu eschews run-ofthe-mill burgers in favour of roasted bratwurst hot dogs and (gluten-free) tacos with fillings including pork belly with pickled vegetables and Asian mushrooms with kimchi. Look out too for the specials board where Safari Momofuku, their take on soft-steamed Asian buns, will frequently pop up. Little explorers are welcome until midevening and get their own menu, though there’s more space for buggies away from the narrow front bar area. + Tremendous selection of craft beers - Weekends are busy so book ahead for food

The Salisbury Arms 58 Dalkeith Road, Southside (Map 3C: E4, 28) 0131 667 4518, thesalisburyarmsedinburgh.co.uk | £11.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

This off-the-beaten-track location provides a welcome retreat from Edinburgh’s city centre. the Salisbury Arms offers free on-site parking and

attracts families, students from nearby university halls and locals. This diverse clientele is reflected in the allencompassing gastropub menu, which consists largely of British favourites, although has recently expanded to include homemade pizza and pasta too. Alongside the comforting classics of chicken and ham pie, beer-battered cod and rump steak, more adventurous diners can sample slow-cooked pork belly and seared scallops or duck leg confit and waffle, while regulars may recommend Sunday’s popular trio of roasts. Both the restaurant and the separate bar area are warmed by open wood fires, which along with tartan soft-furnishings and a mellow earthy interior, ensures a cosy country pub feel in spite of the building’s size. + Twenty-five wines available by the glass - Maybe trying to cover too many bases

of the espresso panacotta. Attention to detail makes meals here feel like special occasions – even if it’s breakfast at 9am on a Saturday or their cut-above-the-rest fish and chips or steak pie. When all the elements come together, the dishes are full of flavours you’ll be describing to friends weeks later. Booking can be tricky or impossible, depending on when you ring, so be prepared to prop up the bar with an excellent Tam Yung martini, made with Diplimático Blanco and Koko Kanu rums shaken with red chilli, fresh ginger, lemongrass and fresh lime juice. + Staffed by people who love food – and know what to do with it - A loud table next door can kill the relaxing vibe

NEW Salt Horse Beer Shop & Bar

Shebeen

unpretentious space with a well-stocked bookcase for customer reading and a record player in the corner, where customers are welcome to play music from a vinyl selection which includes Stevie Wonder and the National. The wine list is fat and chosen with discernment, the presence of a range of Cornish Camel Valley varieties emphasising how on-thebutton their choices are, while the food choices extend only as far as cheese and charcuterie, but don’t suffer for it. Their meats are mainly Italian, with Peelham Farm’s Scottish chorizo and fennelseasoned salami in the mix, while the fine cheeses include varieties from across Europe. Sharing boards, nibbles and Edward & Irwyn chocolates all feature, but the flights are a particular selling point – either trios of wines on their own for £11.50 or paired with cheese for £16. + Very pleasing combination of quality and homeliness - Waiting for your turn on the record player

8 Morrison Street, West End See Round the World

Sofi’s

The Shore Bar & Restaurant

65 Henderson Street, Leith (Map 5A: C2, 23) 0131 555 7019, bodabar.com |

57 Blackfriars Street, Old Town (Map 2B: A3, 8) @SaltHorseBar

Replacing Blackfriars in the much-loved bar space once occupied by Black Bo’s, Salt Horse Beer Shop & Bar is planned to open in May 2016. With a shop one side of the dual unit, the bar on the other will have 12 rotating keg lines and a strong mix of UK and imported bottles and cans. Served alongside will be small batch charcuterie, cheeses, house made pickles, breads and seasonal bar snacks and specials. [Not open at time of going to press – check list.co.uk/food for updates.]

Scotch The Balmoral Hotel, 1 Princes Street, New Town (Map 2A: D1, 2) 0131 524 7142, roccofortehotels.com/hotelsand-resorts | No Kids | £23 (dinner)

Serrano Manchego 297 Leith Walk, Leith See Spanish

3 The Shore, Leith See Bistros & Brasseries

✱ NEW Smith & Gertrude 26 Hamilton Place, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B2, 19) 0131 629 6280, smithandgertrude. com | Closed Mon | £11.50 (set lunch) / £12.50 (dinner)

Named after the junction of two Melbourne streets where married owners Duncan and Amy Findlater used to live, new Stockbridge wine bar Smith & Gertrude combines the welltravelled couple’s biggest loves – wine, cheese, music and books. It’s a homely,

One of four Leith links in the chain of six Swedish independent bars across Edinburgh, expect their signature chummy welcome; bar staff make conversation if you’re waiting, and seem genuinely concerned that you enjoy a well-rounded social life. The small room (plus back room, available for private parties, for free) hosts a heaving events programme – clothes swaps, pub quizzes, nights devoted to knitting or playing Cards Against Humanity with strangers, plus a monthly Dog Day, where owners and pets do Sunday afternoon meet-and-greets. Drinks wise, they love

Tucked behind reception and lacking an on-street entrance, Scotch is easily overlooked. Yet this cosy, converted drawing room is the perfect spot to while away a few hours in search of the ultimate dram. It’s a comfortable, clubby space; with the obligatory stag’s head and well-stuffed armchairs in tweeds and golden tones to match the malt’s amber hues. Yes, other drinks are available. And you can order food (think sharing platters, burgers, or a seafood barley risotto) from a short menu prepared by the hotel’s Hadrian’s Brasserie. But really, this place is mainly about the more than 500 malt whiskies which take up an entire wall of the room. Smart staff will happily deliver a digestible crash course in single malts for the novice or engage in detailed debates with whisky aficionados. Whatever your tastes, they’ll match you with an appropriate malt you can savour with a wellchosen bar snack of smoked almonds, charcuterie or salted caramel chocolate. + Massive selection of whiskies . . . - . . . some of them eye-wateringly expensive

The Scran & Scallie 1 Comely Bank Road, Stockbridge (Map 1A: A1, 1) 0131 332 6281, scranandscallie.com | £15 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

On the main drag of affluent Stockbridge, Michelin-starred chef Tom Kitchin’s version of the pub is a very sophisticated one, more like a smart destination country pub than a scruffy local drop-in, but probably just as likely to feature people in muddy welly boots or sleeping labradors on the floor. The cooking is excellent, as are the cuts of beef, the smokiness of the salmon, the size of the oysters and the wobbliness The List Eating & Drinking Guide 33

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list.co.uk

EDINBURGH

special edition cocktails (Pimms cups, hot buttered rums, aquavit to sip on Swedish holidays) and stock single malts, rums and gins, plus a small selection of bottled and draught beers. What you won’t find is any food to soak up the booze (don’t say you weren’t warned), just bags of crisps and nuts, and free popcorn on movie nights. As they put it, Sofi ’s bar just wants to be, ‘the port in the storm, the little squeeze in a hug, home from home.’ + Welcoming spot for catching up with friends, or finding completely new ones - Their snuggly, cutesy vibes may jar with the grumpy or nihilistic drinker

✱ The Southern 22 South Clerk Street, Southside (Map 3C: D2, 16) 0131 662 8926, thesouthern. co.uk | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Part of the Fuller Thomson empire, the Southern shares all the usual company trademarks; a fantastic selection of burgers, a battery of craft beers and a laid-back vibe. The bar has immediate visual appeal, with its high corniced ceilings, pale walls and astragal windows softened by wood furnishings and burnished copper lamps. The breakfast menu features the obligatory fry-up, pancakes or granola. At dinner, select from more than a dozen burger combos served with standard or slightly more virtuous sweet potato fries. Fear not if you’re vegetarian or gluten-free; there are menu options to suit most requirements, including some token salads. With a killer selection of craft beers (from Scotland, the UK, Belgium and USA) and a compact wine and cocktail list, the biggest problem is choosing what to eat or drink. Fortunately, the savvy bar staff will happily dispense top tips on what your next tipple should be.

+ Great staff who provide expert and

friendly advice - Being too full to try the dessert menu

NEW Southpour 1–5 Newington Road, Southside (Map 3C: D2, 22) 0131 650 1100, southpour.co.uk | £15.50 (lunch) / £15.50 (dinner)

Following a takeover by Glasgow’s G1 Group, the charming and very traditional Southside corner bar Reverie has had a comprehensive makeover. It’s now Southpour, although in contrast to the name’s implication, it feels very much like an informal restaurant first and a local boozer second. The curved floorto-ceiling windows give an atmospheric view out over Newington Road, and inside the service is just as bustling. Early indications are that it’s proving an extremely popular spot for local diners, and the uniformed waiting staff remain rushed off their feet during evening service. The choice is diverse and inventive, from starters of nduja sausage, scotch egg or crabcakes with chilli and tomato jam, to mains like a crisp pork belly served with apple pudding and mash or a simple but well-prepared bowl of moules frîtes, the chips chunkily homemade. The brunch menu similarly fuses eclecticism and familiarity (smoked kippers and poached eggs sit alongside sweetcorn nori), while those few who visit just for a drink will find strong wine and craft beer choices. + Efficient food service in a bar built mainly for dining - Lovers of the shabbily intimate old Reverie may be disappointed

NEW Southside Social 42–44 Buccleuch St, Southside (Map 3C: D1, 6) 0131 662 0974,

edinburghsocialpub.org | £5 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Self-billed as the first social enterprise pub in Edinburgh (and potentially the first in the UK), the Southside Social boasts an admirable mission which will help you feel a lot less guilty about staying for that extra pint. Owner Chris Thewlis aims to make the pub the focal point for the community again, whether that’s by simply offering the upstairs room for meetings of local clubs and university societies; by holding nine-week, on-thejob hospitality training courses for young unemployed people; or by giving all the profits to charity. Changes since the days of the old Meadow Bar are largely superficial, but there is a good range of beers and fresh, homemade bar meals with a range of burgers as the centrepiece. + Genuine, commendable effort to put something back into the community - Despite a range of burger fillings, menu options are limited

Spit / Fire 26b Dublin Street, New Town (Map 1B: B4, 66) 0131 556 5967, spitfirebars.com | £8 (lunch) / £11.50 (dinner)

The beginning of 2016 brought some new sensations to Spit / Fire. The walls are still exposing their brick and the lightbulbs their filaments, but new (old) furniture and varied art on the walls have added interest in its two subterranean levels. As ever, the staff’s passion for what they serve brings a constant rotation of new beers to sample. Don’t get too attached though – when it’s gone it’s gone – and the same can be said of your food favourites. Chef Ruaridh Skinner is living an epicurean dream, with carte blanche to experiment and continually change the menu. 2015’s BBQ theme has

been replaced with interesting and tasty choices like Arbor Motueka IPA-battered skate wing with kimchi or rose veal cheek pastrami with blue cheese mash and wild leek pesto. The less adventurous can still line their stomachs with well-prepared staples like burgers and pork pies before slinking down to the whiskey den to enjoy a wild variety of music genres courtesy of regular guest DJs Bourbon ‘n’ Razors. + Knowledgeable and invested staff - Favourites may disappear on you

Stac Polly Brasserie, Wine and Gin Bar 29–33 Dublin Street, New Town (Map 1B: B4, 65) 0131 556 2231, stacpolly. com/brasserie | Closed Sun | £15.90 (set lunch)

The brasserie and gin bar above the traditional Stac Polly restaurant offers a modern, stylish lunch or drinks venue, with clean pine furniture and contemporary landscapes on the wall. It’s an attractive choice for parties and groups looking for a reasonable New Town location to gather for drinks with canapés or sharing platters. There’s also a full-on offer at lunchtime with some of the same dishes as the restaurant below. Starters include baked filo parcels of haggis on a bed of homemade sweet plum sauce or perhaps a warm pickled beetroot, plum tomato and red onion tarte tatin with goat’s cheese for vegetarians. Hearty diners could try a rump of lamb with rosemary-sautéed potatoes for a main course and to finish, experiment with a bite of Chilled Edinburgh Fog, a glass full of Glayva liqueur, mascarpone cream, honey, meringue and fruit compote. + Stylish and comfortable spot - A confused identity doesn’t draw in the crowds

Authentic Georgian Cellar Bar _ Freshly prepared and locally sourced seafood is our speciality Extensive wine list many by the glass, real ales and malt whisky Food served all day until 10pm _ Opening Hours Thursday–Sunday: Midday–Midnight Friday & Saturday: Midday–1am _ 13 Hope Street, Edinburgh, EH2 4EL T: 0131 225 8674 E: info@whighams.com

www.whighams.com

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BARS & PUBS

In association with

EDINBURGH

The Stand

Teuchters

Traverse Bar Café

5 York Place, New Town See Arts Venues

26 William Street, West End (Map 4: B1, 22) 0131 225 2973, aroomin.co.uk | £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

10 Cambridge Street, West End See Arts Venues

Stockbridge Tap

Tucked away in a quiet street off the bustling West End, Teuchters is a pub with laid-back charm, its wooden floors and comfy sofas offering space to relax and chat. The bar offers no less than 100 malt whiskies, a range of craft beers and three guest beers a month plus a good selection of wines. The pub is known for the casual style of its menu – dig your spoon into a mug (yes, a mug) of Cullen skink or haggis neeps and tatties, with an Arran mustard whisky cream sauce on the side. Pies are cooked to order or you can share a platter of meats or Scottish cheeses. Ingredients for the menus are locally sourced and the eggs organic. This is a great neighbourhood pub, with friendly staff and an atmosphere that belies its central location. + Friendly neighbourhood feel, good service - Bar can get busy

Treacle Bar and Kitchen

2 Raeburn Place, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B1, 9) 0131 343 3000 | No Kids | £16 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Some bemoan the death of the traditional boozer, but there are valiant efforts being made in this easygoing, friendly pub to keep the emphasis on hanging out and propping up the bar while drinking an ever-changing selection of great cask ales. The food menu has been ‘gastropubbed’ for sure (fish and chips here is a deliciously crisp catch of the day mixed with triple-cooked chips, seaweed mustard and radish, fennel and rocket salad), but the results are impressive and relatively unfussy – expect large portions and good cooking. Sharing boards from ‘the land’ (pâté, smoked meats, cheeses and pickles), or ‘the sea’ (marinated anchovies, salt cod fritters, seaweedcured salmon, mackerel pâté) are full of flavour and ideal as an afternoon stop-gap or informal tea for two. Sunday roasts are recommended, although fresh ingredients run out fast on busy days, so get along early. + Unpretentious, busy boozer with good cooking - Snooze and lose out on their Sunday roasts and duck fat potatoes

The Street 2 Picardy Place, New Town (Map 1B: C5, 34) 0131 556 4272, thestreetbaredinburgh.co.uk | No Kids | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

This bright drinking den with its floor to ceiling windows is perfect for peoplewatching, drinking and dancing – one of those places where you pop in for a quick one after work on a sunny Tuesday and end up holding court with a cocktail in each hand, until you realise that was your last nightbus trundling past on its way down Leith Walk. Oops. Despite its size though, there’s a real community spirit in this bar – staff are friendly, dogs are welcome, there’s a lively quiz (aka comedy cabaret gameshow) on a Wednesday and decent food options (with a reduced menu served right through till midnight). Things ramp up at the weekend, when the downstairs club really comes into its own: local hero DJ Trendy Wendy has a regular Friday spot, kicking the weekend off as only she can. + Friendly place to kick-start your weekend, or just your night - Cocktails go down a bit too easily

Sygn 15 Charlotte Lane, West End (Map 4: B1, 7) 0131 225 6060, sygn.co.uk | £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Sygn clearly ticks a lot of bar boxes: a good lunch deal for the office crowd; an interesting menu and compact but decent wine and beer list for relaxed midweek nights; DJs and an expertly crafted cocktail list aimed at a younger, pre-clubbing crowd at the weekend. Of course, when you try to be all things to all people there’s a risk of not doing anything well, but thanks to the obvious care and thought that’s been put in behind the bar and in the kitchen, Sygn remains solid. That said, it’s never going to be edgy or out-there. Is that an issue? Well, not for its loyal punters who happily tuck into naughty but nice mac ’n’ cheese bombs (fried cheesy pasta is never a bad thing) and a decent, crumbly burger with a range of toppings, perhaps accompanied by one of the house special cocktails. A decent all-rounder. + It’s a lovely sunny spot in summer - Unimaginative salad leaves

Teuchters Landing 1c Dock Place, Leith (Map 5A: C1, 6) 0131 554 7427, aroomin.co.uk | £10 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

With a farmer’s market now happening in the car park outside on a Saturday, this waterfront pub is a relaxing spot to head into for lunch afterwards, or a hand-warming flat white or Suchard hot chocolate on a cold day. Foodies will appreciate the seafood and shellfish from Sea Magee and Welch fishmongers – available in a large, show-off seafood platter (£30, and a good size for two sharing) or a more reasonable half pot of mussels and Dunsyre blue cream sauce, or battered Shetland scallops on a roll with tartare sauce. Half pint and full pint mugs of stovies, risotto Cullen skink and Lockerbie mature cheddar macaroni remain popular and good value filleruppers, or there are chunky burgers and gourmet hot dogs too. Whisky fans will find their eyes popping at the selection of single malts behind the bar, and the selection of board games and Scrabble makes it a fun place to kill time. + Soaking up sun on the outside deck in the summer - Rugby matches are a big thing here, be warned if you’re not a fan

39–41 Broughton Street, New Town (Map 1B: C5, 30) 0131 557 0627, treacleedinburgh.co.uk | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

When Treacle’s staff are regularly asked why they have a monkey on their sign, their simple response is, ‘Does a monkey need a reason?’ This perfectly captures what this Broughton Street bar and kitchen is all about; doing exactly what they want, the way they want to. Inside, it feels as if a child has had his own way with the interior designer, choosing comic character wallpaper for a wall facing 200-year-old exposed brick, but the space has been cleverly arranged, making it as appealing to brunch-goers as evening drinkers. Their mischievous creativity has also helped shape a diverse menu, where it’s acceptable to drink a vodka Asian Hooker with a large bowl of ramen, or play it safe with a chicken pie and pint of Drygate’s IPA. This may all sound like chaos, but Treacle’s enthusiastic team have a knack for making the unusual seem totally easy breezy. + Each cocktail is served in its own way - More floor staff are needed during busier periods

Under the Stairs 3a Merchant Street, Old Town (Map 2A: C3, 48) 0131 466 8550, underthestairs. org | No Kids | £18 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

With only a small wooden plaque outside acknowledging its existence, Under the Stairs doesn’t give much away until you’re down in its basement depths.

But cast any doubts aside: inside, old wooden tables, vintage-style chairs and a wood-burning stove create a definite home-from-home feel. On the cocktail side of things, they have all sorts of weird and wonderful tipples – a whisky-based ‘Sideboob’ or a ‘beetroot and wasabi Margarita’, anyone? Draught beer is limited, but the wine selection means business, featuring an Austrian grüner veltliner, recommended to go with fish. On the food front, there’s a handful of vegetarian dishes, including chickpea and mango filo parcels with chilli and coconut cream. Otherwise, choose from the likes of duck, stuffed squid and venison. Just like the majority of diners, the staff are young, bohemian types, eager to keep the regular flow of diners happy. + Portion sizes and prices mean a starter, main and pud are on the cards - The quality of food struggles to keep up with the standard of drinks

V Deep 60 Henderson Street, Leith (Map 5A: C2, 25) 0131 563 5293, vdeep.co.uk | £10 (set lunch) / £17.50 (dinner)

Although the zany neon decor flourishes may be OTT, there’s no arguing with the fact that there’s a lot going on in this revamp of an old Leith boozer. While for some the focus is firmly on the fresh, delicious and innovative Indian food – and it’s hard to resist the smells coming from the tables around you – there’s an equal emphasis on beer. The house draughts feature Williams Bros and Drygate, with around eight guest cask and kegs on a constant rotation. You can drink your way round the world with the range of beers and cans too, with Australia, Mexico, Japan and . . . Somerset all

Tigerlily 125 George Street, New Town See Bistros & Brasseries

The Tourmalet 25 Buchanan Street, Leith (Map 5B: A3, 16) 0131 555 4387 | No Kids

Named after a notoriously difficult Tour de France mountain climb (and sister to the Ventoux in Tollcross), this cyclingthemed bar is a friendly, traditional pub, brimming with character. There’s no food but eggs pickled in a variety of brines (dill, fresh peppercorn and lemon anyone?) are available and patrons are welcome to bring in takeaway food (chippies and kebabs excluded). The real attractions are the Scottish, Belgian and particularly German bottled beers, the latter sourced directly with the selection changing every couple of months. Despite its proximity to Easter Road, there’s no football shown, but the big cycling races (grand tours and spring classics) are projected. With Andre the gorilla in the corner, the Battle of Britain being played out on the ceiling, and fish tanks and a tree in the snug, there’s a relaxed quirkiness to this boozer that should appeal, whether you arrive on two wheels or two legs. + Great neighbourhood pub, ideal for a quiet beer - Leaves on the line still keeping the miniature railway from running

Purveyors of Sco ish indy beers, ales and spirits 6 real ale taps, 6 cra kegs Upstairs space free for private pa ies (up to 30)

185 Haymarket Terrace, EH3 8DZ | T: 0131 228 9149

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represented, while cans are available to take out should you wish to continue your journey at home. + Fantastic range of beers and curry - Sport avoiders won’t like the big screen telly See also entry in Indian section

The Ventoux 2 Brougham Street, Tollcross (Map 3A: C1, 2) 0131 229 5066 | No Kids

The Ventoux is a rare thing in Edinburgh; it’s a pub. It’s not a real ale pub, or a cocktail bar, or a gastropub. It’s just a pub. It doesn’t have a kitchen, or a TV, or a range of artisan bar snacks. It doesn’t even have a Twitter feed or Instagram. It does have a theme of sorts, which, like it’s sister, the Tourmalet in Leith, is borne of owner Murray McKean’s obsession with the Tour de France, so there’s loads of cycling memorabilia and bikes all over the place, but despite this it’s no MAMIL hangout nor a fixie-geeks den. And despite the excellent selection of bottled German beer, it’s not a German beer pub. What the Ventoux is, is simply a pub, a pub that knows that you don’t need to try too hard to have a good time. + Lovely staff, great music, top atmosphere - Could be more interesting beers on tap

Victoria 265 Leith Walk, Leith (Map 5B: A2, 9) 0131 555 1638, bodabar.com/victoria |

Roughly halfway down Leith Walk sits the likeable, unpretentious Victoria bar. The vibe is relaxed during the day, with board games and free books available, and a little more buzzy at night as regulars arrive and the noise level rises. They leave cocktails to their sister bar, Boda, just a block away but there’s a

short wine list, teas and coffees, a decent selection of malts and the draft and bottled beer range is refreshed several times a year to keep it interesting. They don’t do food, unless you count free fruit for customers and complimentary biscuits for your four-legged friends, but you can bring in your own. The back area is available for free hire and their Facebook page provides a heads-up for future events, such as the monthly dating night and one-offs like their Dolly Parton-themed evening. + Hassle-free environment to enjoy a drink or two - Very dog-friendly which may not be ideal for everyone

The Voodoo Rooms 19a West Register Street, New Town See Bistros & Brasseries

Wee Buddha 2B Jamaica St, New Town See Far East

The WestRoom 3 Melville Place, West End (Map 4: B1, 3) 0131 629 9868, thewestroom.co.uk | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Edinburgh is blessed with lots of brilliant wee neighbourhood bars. What the WestRoom does so well is make you believe that you belong in this one, even when you’re miles away from home. In fact, if its clever mix of interior design you wish you had in your living room; compact but competent menu; and absolutely faultless, responsive service (nothing vegan on the menu? Call ahead for a set menu of your very own) doesn’t get you fantasising about your very own pied à terre in the West End, nothing will. This is a place to while away an

The Whistle Stop Barber Shop Bar & Diner: looking trim

afternoon with a few nibbles, to grab a quick bite and a wine after work, or to linger over brunch at the weekend. Solid, reliable and none the worse for that: it might even get you humming the theme tune from Cheers as you step through the door. + Call ahead with dietary requirements; they’ll adapt with a smile - Realising you don’t live round the corner when you’ve missed the last bus home

Whighams Wine Cellars 13 Hope Street, West End (Map 4: B1, 16) 0131 225 8674, whighams.com | £12.95 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

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Whighams appeal lies in its atmosphere. It’s been a solid feature on the Edinburgh scene for over 30 years, thanks to a stalwart clientele who know what they like and like what they know. Popular for business lunches and after-work drinks, the cellars also play host to regular jazz, blues and open mic nights and, of course, wine tasting. The wine list is as extensive as you’d expect, with something for all palates and purses, from a £4 glass of red to a £125 bottle of champagne. The daily market menu also offers good value, if a little unimaginative, dishes, featuring the likes of classic prawn cocktail and fishcakes or chicken liver parfait and roast beef salad. The puddings show a little more flair and the mango and passion fruit crème brûlée is a pleasure to crack into. + Alcoves are great for an intimate gettogether - Some dishes are a little bland

Whiski 119 High Street, Old Town (Map 2B: A2, 4) 0131 556 3095, whiskibar.co.uk | £16 (lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Unlike the many souvenir shops nearby selling anything vaguely tartan, Whiski gives a truer representation of Scotland’s offerings, and doesn’t blast out the unavoidable sound of screeching bagpipes while it’s at it. Instead, it provides a snug setting to sip on a pint of local beer from the likes of Williams Bros, sample a dram or two of their 300-plus whiskies or have a glass of wine from an ambitious wine list. In keeping with the native drinks, the food menu is just as culturally rich, scribbled with notes about their focus on serving the freshest produce. The fish for their Cullen skink, fishcakes and sea bass (complete with a beautifully crisp skin), is sourced from the east coast, and their steaks, although a little over-priced, are from the Scottish Borders. Better value is found in their lunch menu, where most dishes can be snapped up for less than a tenner. + Live folk music daily - Vegetarian options limited

NEW The Whistle Stop Barber Shop Bar & Diner 66–67 South Bridge, Old Town (Map 2B: A4, 14) 0131 556 0954, whistlestopedinburgh.co.uk | £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

This corner spot on South Bridge has been something of a dead zone for bars in recent years, but the Whistle Stop Barber Shop deserves to change all that. It’s simply a bar which tries plenty of things out and gets them largely right; from the selection of cocktails and craft ales to an American diner-style menu of food which is both hearty and highly satisfying in the context of a plate of food which goes nicely with a beer alongside it. The homemade steak burgers – reassuringly made of two

COCKTAILS

Served until 9pm daily with Mexican street-food until midnight

£5

(Sun, Mon & Tue)

ONLINE LISTINGS For full opening hours, further details on facilities, individual location maps plus web and social media links, go to

THE STREET, 2B PICARDY PLACE (TOP OF BROUGHTON STREET), EDINBURGH. T:0131-556-4272

WWW.THESTREETBAREDINBURGH.CO.UK

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thinner patties rather than the ball of meat which has become fashionable – feature odd but satisfying combinations like the Southwest Benedict (chorizo, fried egg and chipotle hollandaise) and the Crabby Louis (avocado and white crab meat). Hot dogs, chargrill steaks, nachos, buffalo wings and pizza also feature, and if the thematic style of hair-clipping scissors on the walls and barbershop cages separating the booths feels a little laboured, at least it’s a place which has been quick to stamp its own personality. + Hearty, American diner-themed food - No lunch service outside summer, at the moment

WildManWood Pizza 27–29 Marshall Street, Southside See Italian

The Windsor 45 Elm Row, Leith (Map 5B: A5, 28) 0131 556 4558, windsoredinburgh.co.uk | No Kids

If your local has long since celebrated its centenary year, it must be doing something right. As fashions come and go around it, the Windsor quietly continues to plough its own furrow. There’s no food, aside from toasties and nachos, but there’s a surprisingly wide selection of booze at sensible prices (their four cask ales are all under £4). Complementing the two dozen malts is an even bigger range of British, Spanish and French rums that can be sampled via a tasting board (also available for whisky and gin if you’re feeling adventurous). The mature regulars seem to appreciate the uncomplicated drinking environment, many greeted by the bar staff with a silent nod and an immediate pint pour. Rugby and football are shown across three screens and there are free treats behind the bar for your four-legged pals. Part of a small chain of traditional pubs, including the Blue Blazer, this understated gem is an asset to the neighbourhood. + Perfect place for a quiet pint and a chat - Foodies need to look elsewhere

Woodland Creatures 260–262 Leith Walk, Leith (Map 5B: A2, 8) 0131 629 5509, woodlandcreatures. co.uk | £12.50 (lunch) / £12.50 (dinner)

It’s a period of transition for Woodland Creatures, one of the earliest hipster bar insurgents to have brought a change of character to Leith Walk. Redeveloped in 2013 as a Berlin-style collision of shabby industrial chic and relaxing local hangout with added quirky animal ornaments, that’s the form it still takes at time of writing. Following a takeover towards the tail end of 2015 by local craft brewery Krafty Brew, however, the imminent plan is for the bar to be rebranded as Krafty’s own brewery bar, with a physical redevelopment in the pipeline too. Yet for now Woodland Creatures remains, and it still comes recommended for its fashionable but laid-back atmosphere, a strong selection of gin, wine and craft beer (Krafty are already well-represented on tap and in the fridge), and a decent selection of traditional pub grub, of which the burgers (Cajun-spiced chicken, vegan sweet potato and beetroot, falafel or a sizeable homemade steak beef burger) are highlights. There’s also a Narniaesque smokers’ snug accessed by a cupboard and a strong and regular selection of live music, comedy, open mic and cabaret in the back room. + Hipster but unpretentious, with a strong entertainments programme - Feels a little like a place that’s itching for a change, at time of writing

BISTROS & BRASSERIES There’s more than a hint of French cooking in Edinburgh’s bistros – and, married to the best of Scotland’s larder, that means a match made in heaven. Bistros and brasseries aren’t about fine dining (although there are a handful of venues where both food and prices come sprinkled with the stardust of a five-star hotel or a Michelinawarded chef). But generally, a good bistro remains an informal, neighbourhood place, often family-run, with affordable wines and feel-good food to please the belly and nourish the soul. If you’re in the mood to kick back and enjoy easy eating with friends, this is where to start. Reviewers: Tom Bruce-Gardyne, Margaret Craik, Ian Hogg, Courtney Hyde Peyton, Steve Morton, Kirstyn Smith

A Room in Leith 1a Dock Place, Leith See Scottish

A Room in the West End 26 William Street, West End See Scottish

Aizle 107–109 St Leonard’s Street, Southside See Scottish

Anfora 87a Giles Street, Leith (Map 5A: C2, 24) 0131 553 6914, anforawinebar.co.uk | Closed Mon/Tue | £12.50 (set lunch) / £50 (set dinner)

Now in its second year, Anfora has established itself as one of the capital’s very best locations for enjoying wine. With over two dozen mainly organic and biodynamic choices available by the glass and a further three dozen by the bottle (including the intriguingly-billed ‘game changers’), you can let your curiosity get the better of you. Although the same menu is currently served in both the cosy, candlelit bar area and the atmospheric dining room (once used to sample and price the wines imported to Scotland from Bordeaux), a rumoured re-invention may place more emphasis on small plates. The cooking is classy and elegant; starters of squid salad and spiced crumble, and flavour-rich slowcooked chicken wings both benefiting significantly from the suggested wine pairings. Mains are more substantial and the matching of pork belly on broccoli purée with a Sicilian white wine is an eye-opener. Those less keen on the grape can opt for one of over 30 malts, a Scottish beer (offerings from Williams Bros feature heavily) or something from the compact cocktail list. + Fascinating range of wines - The dining room may be overly formal for some

The Apartment Bistro 7–13 Barclay Place, Southside (Map 3A: B2, 25) 0131 228 6456, apartmentrestaurant.com | £12 (set lunch) / £15 (set dinner)

Fair play to the Apartment – other restaurants have come and gone, but it’s been quietly holding its own in Bruntsfield since 1999, which is no mean feat. And it’s not hard to see why

the formula works: an interesting, wellpriced wine list with plenty of 500ml carafes on offer, solid lunch and set menu deals running through until evening and classic good looks – robustly pale chairs, polished copper fixtures, blood-red walls and spotlit tables – all add up to a reliable choice for midweek dinners or weekend lunches. The food menu, for its part, foregrounds a range of skewers including a lovely veggie sweet potato and citrus halloumi option. Oven-warmed bread and soft, salty olives on a dark wood block make for a strong opener, while bistro classics like flat iron steak and rump of lamb tempt. [Not recently visited.]

✱ HITLIST

BISTROS & BRASSERIES

Apiary Restaurant 33 Newington Road, Southside (Map 3C: D3, 23) 0131 668 4999, apiaryrestaurant. co.uk | £10 (set lunch) / £19.50 (dinner)

Baby sister to well-established older Bruntsfield sibling Three Birds, Newington’s Apiary has a lot to shout about. The bright, high-ceilinged dining room generates a pleasing buzz, with cosy suede-clad booths lining the walls and knowledgeable service setting just the right tone. Packed full of punchy flavours, the eclectic menus draw on global inspiration with a careful thought to local sourcing and dishes designed to stand out from the bistro crowd. Try house special Egyptian dukkah with smoked shallot vinegar sprinkled over artisan bread, confidently balanced monkfish and prawn laksa or a warming wild boar bhuna. Peanut butter and jam from an intriguing list of Over Langshaw Farm ice-creams follows groaning ‘Big Cow’ sharing platters of Borders fillet, marrowbone, mustards and fries. Bloody Mary with rioja float perks up a weekend brunch, with pulled pork mac ’n’ cheese burgers appearing on good-value ‘two courses for a tenner’ daytime deals. In a friendly restaurant whose quirky suggestion bird box encourages diners’ feedback, it’s worth keeping an eye out for the popular half-price tester days when the seasonal menu changes. + Appealing menu that strives to be different - Room feels at its best when it’s busy

The Apprentice Edinburgh College, Granton Campus, 350 West Granton Road, Leith See Scottish

The Atelier

✱ Bijou A pocket-sized gem among the city’s bistros, open for business from breakfast right through to dinner. ✱ The Dome A glorious dining room with a superb kitchen and de-lovely staff – expect a truly lavish time. ✱ Galvin Brasserie de Luxe Brasserie offshoot at the Caledonian Hotel, adding five-star gloss to Parisian bistro style for upmarket casual dining. ✱ Monteiths Delightful Royal Mile cocktail bar and kitchen, with well executed contemporary cuisine, skilfully selected wine and a cosy sophisticated setting. ✱ The Outsider Ever-reliable downtown venue with plenty of flair and a tasty, well-conceived menu. ✱ The Shore Bar & Restaurant Delightful, comfortable, welcoming, classic – eating at the Shore feels like coming home. ✱ Three Birds Restaurant Deservedly popular, cosy neighbourhood bistro with an inspired, flavour-packed menu. ✱ The Walnut Wonderful things come in small packages at this exciting and cannily priced new Leith Walk eatery.

159–161 Morrison Street, West End See Scottish

Badger and Co 32 Castle Street, New Town See Bars & Pubs

Bia Bistrot 19 Colinton Road, Southside (Map 3B: A1, 1) 0131 452 8453, biabistrot.co.uk | Closed Sun/Mon | £9.50 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Bia Bistrot is everything a neighbourhood restaurant should be. Family run, with husband and wife team Roisin and Matthias marshalling the kitchen and a familiar front of house keeping a loyal band of returning regulars content. French in origin, the bistro leans on Scotland’s larder with confident cooking matched to a well-sourced and evenly priced wine list. Roasted bone marrow with red onion jam rewards the à la carte adventurous, alongside hake fillet with smoked haddock velouté and fall-apart, tender slow-braised roe deer. All roads lead to the gooey chocolate and hazelnut brownie, with seasonal stop-offs from the popular specials board for confit duck leg and red wine jus or Borders pheasant with beetroot salad. The comfortable, compact dining room is supported by a

basement level for larger parties, both offering great value lunch and early dining set menu deals. Six years in and still going strong, this Irish-French chefowner combo continue to serve up all the right local dining ingredients. + Ticks all the bistro boxes - Lower level not quite as charming as main room

✱ Bijou 2 Restalrig Road, Leith (Map 5B: C1, off) 0131 538 0664, bijoubistro.co.uk | £14 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

True to its name, Bijou is a real, pocketsized gem among the city’s independent restaurants. The décor evokes a backstreet Parisian bistro, especially if there’s something French and jazzy on the stereo, and despite overlooking Leith Links, you do half expect Amélie to pop in. The wee menu reflects the wee space and features handmade burgers; pasta such as wild mushroom gnocchi; and hot-smoked salmon fishcakes. To finish, try and at least share some sticky toffee pudding and homemade rhubarb ice-cream. There is also an ever-changing mix of specials with 2-3 starters and 4-5 mains depending on the season and the The List Eating & Drinking Guide 37

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whims of James Harrison – as gregarious and hands-on an owner as you could wish for. Add in a talented chef and some wellchosen wines from Great Grog, and it’s a winning combination. A few yards closer into town and Bijou would be mobbed every night. + The sheer quality of the cooking - Location may be far-flung for some

Bisque Bar & Brasserie Bruntsfield Hotel, 69 Bruntsfield Place, Southside (Map 3A: B3, 28) 0131 622 8163, bisquebrasserie.com | £10 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Part of the Bruntsfield Hotel, Bisque tries to maintain its own identity as a stand-alone restaurant, but only partially succeeds. It has its own entrance that leads through a wood-panelled bar with dining booths and TVs, down a few steps to the brasserie itself. Dining here, it’s a little too easy to imagine hotel guests sitting at the same tables for breakfast. Refreshing the slightly functional décor and lighting could do wonders. The seasonally changing menu boasts bistro staples like venison casserole and braised lamb shank with starters such as gravadlax, salmon fishcakes and Cullen skink. The Scotch beef all comes from the Borders, be it 8oz sirloin steaks or the six gourmet burgers, and there’s a decent, diverse wine list with plenty by the glass. In warmer months, Bisque’s best kept secret is al fresco dining on its sheltered patio in the early evening sun. + Dining al fresco on a summer evening - The hotel-like ambience

Very Veggie? Check out our Tiplists on pages 9–11 Find Tiplists on other topics throughout the guide and online

£20 (dinner)

88 Commercial Street, Leith See French

Handily located mid-way between the Grassmarket and the west end of Princes Street, the Bread Street Brasserie has claims as a stand-alone dining destination, though the fact that you enter via the Doubletree Hilton hotel reception does rather nail it as a hotel offshoot. That said, the brasserie is a smartly furnished and pleasant enough spot. Banquette seating and well-spaced tables are comfortable and the staff are keen to make your visit a success. The kitchen deserves praise for a menu that is alert to dietary sensibilities with vegetarian and gluten-free options flagged up, and a special vegan dinner once a month. The lunch and early evening fixed price deals lift a selection of dishes from the main à la carte, with a decent choice of four starters and mains, featuring the likes of beetroot-cured salmon, herb chicken with sweet tomato sauce and parmentier potatoes, and lemon drizzle cake or a cheeseboard with chutney and grapes to finish. + Front of house working hard - Kitchen coasting

Blackwood’s Bar & Grill

Café Cassis

Nira Caledonia, 10 Gloucester Place, Stockbridge See Scottish

Salisbury Hotel, Salisbury Road, Southside (Map 3C: D3, 26) 0131 667 8991, cafecassis.co.uk | Closed Mon | £10.95 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

Blonde

Crème brûlée or chocolate mousse? Pity poor Stephen Hawking. For his Desert Island Discs luxury, he wasn’t allowed both but had to choose. There’s no such problem at Café Cassis, where the house favourite assiette gourmande of five desserts includes tarte tatin, spice icecream, lemon posset and a wee crème brûlée plus the intense chocolate hit of a tiny, gooey brownie. Desserts are a speciality, and these alone would make it worth seeking out this comfortable cafébistro tucked into the basement of the adjacent hotel. Add to this Nantes-born chef Denis Guillonneau’s repertoire of French country cooking and the loyal local clientele that keeps the place steadily busy are really in danger of having to share their favourite neighbourhood dining spot. Beef cheek with its own concentrated braising juices is piled onto wedges of waxy boiled potatoes. A pheasant breast and confit leg come with cabbage and unctuous dauphinoise, while Scottish mussels and queenies shine, simply prepared with shallots and cream plus a chunk of good baguette. Poor Professor Hawking. Just one pud – and no garlicky escargots. + A Francophile treat - Wishing for more regional French wines to match the food

Bistro Provence

75 St Leonard’s Street, Southside (Map 3C: E2, 14) 0131 668 2917, blonderestaurant.co.uk | £12.90 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Hold onto your hats. This unpretentious pair of former shops in St Leonard’s Street with its mismatched chairs and guddle of tables hides a blonde with ambition. The cooking is bold and bright, and the menu studded with the sort of tantalising flavours that require much trans-table fork swapping and promises of a return visit to prevent unseemly squabbling. Rich black pudding and pork belly croquettes get a necessary shot of sweet and sharp from a dod of deliciousness that enquiry reveals to be carrot jam. A gently melting quenelle of aubergine ricotta spiked with jalapeno provides creaminess for a spelt and lentil salad topped with crisply fried halloumi. Confit duck leg is properly unctuous, sauced with a pink peppercorn gravy, jostling with mushrooms and bacon. You’ll think you don’t have space for dessert, but with the likes of flourless chocolate cake or steamed date and pecan pudding on offer, resistance is likely to be futile. Just loosen your belt, refill your glass (decent wine at good prices is a highlight and a house speciality) and plan the return visit. + Magic on a plate - Prominently sited ‘Gents’

Brasserie Les Amis 83 Morrison Street, West End See French

Bread Street Brasserie DoubleTree by Hilton Edinburgh City Centre, 34–36 Bread Street, West End (Map 4: D2, 43) 0131 221 5558, doubletree3.hilton.com | £14 (set lunch) /

menu has changed too: there’s a heavier emphasis on grilling, with more interesting modern Scottish choices. Crab tacos – white meat combined with red chilli, coriander, lime and mango, sitting perkily in crunchy, thin taco shells – do beg a question: why don’t we see more crab on our menus? Paper-thin slices of prime steak carpaccio, scattered with parmesan and drizzled with truffle dressing, tears tenderly under fork tines. Pan-roasted Black Angus New York strip steak is a chunky, deeply flavoured cut, rarely seen in these parts (and that’s another mystery), while West Country lamb rack, while more familiar, is no less a treat. With seared tuna mignon a bit of a standout and rich, indulgent puddings too, it’s safe to say this refresh is a definite success. + Appealing dishes from land and sea - Hard surfaces mean it gets a bit loud

Café Renroc 91 Montgomery Street, New Town See Cafés

The Caley Sample Room 42–58 Angle Park Terrace, West End See Bars & Pubs

Charwood 47 Buckstone Avenue, Fairmilehead, Southside (Map 3B: A4, off) 0131 445 2233, charwood.co.uk | £18 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Set back from the main road heading out towards the city bypass, Charwood is hard to miss with its black sign and tiled, pyramid roof. You can eat in the lounge bar with sport on TV, or in the restaurant where natural light floods in through big windows that look south to the Pentlands. Proud of his Josper grill, the chef majors

on barbecued beef, from the Charwood burger – juicy and suitably charred – to a variety of well-hung steaks. A creamy smoked haddock chowder with leeks makes a fine starter, while for mains, lamb’s liver and shallots is tasty and succulent. There’s also a range of woodfired pizzas, from a simple margherita to the Hot Scot, topped with haggis, jalapeno pepper and mozzarella. If you still have room, there are some very creamy sundaes to finish you off. + The chargrilled meat - The potato-packed fishcake

NEW Checkpoint 3 Bristo Place, Old Town (Map 2A, C4, 54) 0131 225 9352, checkpointedinburgh.com | £10 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

An old shipping container with cut-away sides, parked in this big, white-walled space gives Checkpoint its shanty-chic vibe, reaffirmed by the rickety chairs. There are tables inside the container, though it can get noisy, while daylight floods the rest of the room from windows front and back. Coffee and laptops give way to the ‘daybreak’ menu until 5pm where options include ‘Philfy’ rolls, bowls of noodles, miso broth or smoked haddock chowder, and ‘Po’Boys’ (big, spicy, Louisiana-style sandwiches). A roast vegetable tarte tatin promises more than it delivers, but a mouth-filling ‘Philfy bootleg’ brims with black pudding, bacon, ripe avocado and a poached egg. Evenings give way to ‘substantial stuff’ like haggisstuffed pork belly, rump steak and moules marinière. There are 16 craft beers and 16 wines, almost all available by glass or carafe. + Relaxed feel and mouth-filling grub - Rickety chairs

Café Mal 1 Tower Place, Leith (Map 5A: C1, 9) 0131 468 5000, malmaison.com | £19.95 (set lunch) / £31 (dinner)

Twenty-two years after its opening, Malmaison’s recent £1 million renovation has freshened both rooms and public spaces. The hotel’s popular bar and brasserie, now dubbed Café Mal, are no exception – those familiar with the venue should find the exposed brick and clean modern setting an improvement. The

David Bann: still manages to keep it fresh, friendly and wholesome

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Clouds & Soil 4 Picardy Place, New Town (Map 1B: C5, 35) 0131 629 2728, cloudsandsoil.com | £20 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

On a busy junction at the top of Leith walk with the Playhouse and Vue cinema just a few moments away, the fivestorey townhouse at 4 Picardy Place has been through many incarnations over the years. This latest, Clouds & Soil, sees a stylish bar and restaurant, with a handful of bedrooms above. Entering the building’s hallway, to the left is a buzzy bar serving cocktails and bar food. Venture up to the first floor and you’ll find an elegant dining room with lots of period features. Fern greens on the walls, sash windows with views of Calton Hill and a statement wine bottle chandelier hangs centre stage. On a menu keen to celebrate local ingredients, Cullen skink or scallops are among the starters, while Mellis’ cheese features in the wild mushroom and truffle baked polenta gnocchi, a dish slightly let down by a general lack of definition. There’s a decent wine list which suggests promise; the food just needs to catch up with the grand surroundings. + An elegant Edinburgh townhouse . . . - . . . which could do more with the ingredients

David Bann 56–58 St Mary’s Street, Old Town (Map 2B: B3, 22) 0131 556 5888, davidbann. com | £18 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

There is, thankfully, no sign of teenage angst in this, David Bann’s 14th year, just reliably good food without the attitude. Tucked away from the bustle of the Royal Mile, the restaurant has been dealing in high-quality vegetarian fare since 2002. The dining room in gentle block colours stands as a juxtaposition for the colourful dishes to come; the lack of background music means diners create their own muzak, mainly hums of satisfaction. Try the Aduki bean and mushroom bake, served with a decadently stodgy Tyrol dumpling which, when pierced, oozes sharp Kintyre cheddar. Or the aubergine, chickpea and cashew koftas, not on sticks as expected, but rolled into balls to melt in the mouth, sided with a sharp papaya salad. While you could plump for the chocolate soufflé – ‘It’s been on the menu for years,’ says the duty manager – dessert is a dilemma. A bright raspberry jelly is offset by a surprising tang of passion fruit and meaty Amarettosoaked figs, while the whisky panacotta with warm pear is zesty, warming and wholesome, like the restaurant itself. + Presentation is superb - High turnaround on diners

The Dogs 110 Hanover Street, New Town (Map 1A: D4, 88) 0131 220 1208, thedogsonline. co.uk | £8 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Simple, consistent, fun – the Dogs has been feeding Edinburgh diners modern British fare for eight years with a certain aplomb. Up the steep staircase and into the bright, white-washed rooms, where quirky portraits of the owner’s dog inform the design throughout, the dining is casual but comfy. Recently the lunch menu has been lightened up to favour soups, sandwiches and some traditional choices such as fish and chips. The evening menu remains loyal to longstanding fans of the venue, including mixed fish or Irish mutton stews, panfried salmon with creamed leeks and the heart-stopping, 18 oz grilled ribeye steak with smoked garlic butter and dripping-fried chips (best to worry about the cholesterol tomorrow). Puddings are equally familiar and reliable, be it an orange posset or the rhubarb and ginger crumble with warm custard. It’s not

fancy, but it isn’t trying to be, and it’s friendly and relaxing, which makes for a very pleasant meal. + Really, really good steak and chips - Lunch is a bit low key these days

✱ The Dome Grill Room 14 George Street, New Town (Map 1B: A6, 56) 0131 624 8624, thedomeedinburgh.com | £16 (set lunch) / £30 (dinner)

The rich, Greco-Roman architecture of the former Commercial Bank of Scotland HQ on George Street forms a stunning backdrop when dining at the Dome. The figure of Caledonia sits central on the high pediment outside, which also honours Agriculture, Enterprise and Prudence, the former three perhaps now more at home in the lavish setting within than the latter. Enter the telling hall to be greeted by the magnificent central dome, from which the venue takes its current name, and pause to enjoy the moment. The Grill Room itself sits at the southern apse end, creating a sense of lavish privacy among the select number of tables, with linens gleaming, glasses sparkling, ingratiating waiters attending. What fun! The menu favours the richness of Scotland’s larders unashamedly. Panfried wood pigeon is lightly dressed with walnut, but mind the shot as the menu helpfully instructs. A mound of smoked Shetland salmon, piled high with slender shavings of fennel, is festooned with avocado cream. Mains spotlight roast lamb rump, casseroled Angus venison and lush Buccleuch steak. At this calibre, dining like a successful banker truly has its moments. + Glorious setting, delicious food, delightful staff - If you’re looking for low key, this isn’t it

EH15 The Club, 24 Milton Road East, Portobello See Scottish

Earthy Canonmills 1–6 Canonmills Bridge, Canonmills (Map 1B: A1, 5) 0131 556 9696, earthy.uk.com | £10 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Earthy by name and earthy by nature, this thriving rustic-style café bistro with its rough wood tables and quirky lighting is a little bit Marmite, but if you like it, you’ll be back for more faster than you can say ‘seasonal, local and organic’. A shop that’s like a who’s who of worldwide Fairtrade and artisan produce (with a busy trade in takeaway sandwiches and salads) underpins a sitin menu to take you from breakfast and brunch through to bistro supper. Fresh soups, salads and dips such as sweet potato pepped up with ginger, cumin and pretty pomegranate seeds come with a selection of excellent artisan breads. There’s a notable drinks list (13 wines by the glass) too. Lovely desserts like damson and brioche pudding will leave you replete, though in no shape to run for the bus if you’ve just had a hefty main such as venison ragù with kale polenta. For breakfast, for brunch, for coffee and cake until it’s time for a beer, for snacks, salads and sharing, Earthy is as convivial as a kitchen supper. + Great ingredients, flavours and lots for sharing - A few unloved corners need some TLC

Edinburgh Larder Bistro 1a Alva Street, West End (Map 4: B1, 12) 0131 225 4599, edinburghlarder.co.uk | Closed Sun/Mon | £12 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)

Setting the scene perfectly, the entrance foyer of this Alva Street basement bistro doubles as a kitchen larder packed full The List Eating & Drinking Guide 39

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of family-made chutneys, pickles and preserves. A series of timber and stoneclad nooks and crannies combine to generate a refined rustic charm, with fabric throws draped across soughtafter booths and an appealing roof-lit raised section to the rear. Striving to educate their diners about the quality of Scotland’s harvest, the seasonal menu refreshes monthly, showcasing a handpicked range of regional producers and foraged goodies. Spiced pear and apple vodka aperitif kicks off a reassuringly compact dinner menu with pork rillettes or Arbroath smokie pâté leading to sage infused guinea fowl saltimbocca. Coley fillet with sea purslane and mussel broth appears from a confident kitchen alongside Dunsyre blue cheesecake with honeyed cobnuts and a poached quince tarte tatin. A carefully sourced old world wine list supports a daily-changing lunch offer, with a specials board featuring nose-to-tail dining and a popular Friday night steak and craft beer deal. + Delightful interior, with ambition evident in the kitchen - Front of house could be slightly more engaging

L’Escargot Blanc Restaurant & Wine Bar 17 Queensferry Street, West End See French

Wild Wood Café (page 48): showcasing a strong breakfast and brunch menu and appealing dinner offer

L’Escargot Bleu 56 Broughton Street, New Town See French

Field 41 West Nicolson Street, Southside See Scottish

Marchmont, Edinburgh Neighbourhood Brasserie & Wine Bar, serving excellent food with warm welcoming service.

First Coast 97–101 Dalry Road, West End (Map 4: A4, 57) 0131 313 4404, first-coast.co.uk | Closed Sun | £13.50 (set lunch) / £19.50 (dinner)

Despite a name that suggests a slightly more seafaring theme, Dalry Road’s First Coast is definitely all bistro. Continuing to prepare the dishes that he enjoys eating, chef owner Hector Macrae leans heavily on Scotland’s harvest with occasional forays further east for inspiration. His friendly front of house team reinforces the relaxed neighbourhood vibe, across three simply dressed dining rooms linked by maritime-influenced artwork. An evenly priced wine list supports an appealing dinner menu, with good value lunch and early dining deals and the occasional evening set aside to showcase regional cuisine. Flat iron steak with chipotle butter and Thai chicken salad feature on a compact daytime menu, with pork fillet and salt-baked beetroot or hake in a deep-flavoured shellfish sauce gracing the à la carte menu. Warm flatbread mops up Moroccan aubergine zaalouk, rich oxtail gnocchi partners a star aniseinfused onion purée while a liqueur-laced affogato dessert wraps things up nicely. While arguably not quite in its pomp, there’s still more than enough reason to enjoy this convivial local eatery. + The zaalouk and gnocchi starters - Poorly executed pork belly main

Forth Floor Brasserie 11 Roseneath Street Edinburgh 0131 229 7953 www.therabbitholerestaurant.co.uk TheRabbitHole

Harvey Nichols, 30–34 St Andrew Square, New Town (Map 1B: B5, 58) 0131 524 8350, harveynichols.com | £18 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)|

With its wonderful views out across the Edinburgh rooftops, excellent cocktails and consistently interesting and accessible food, the Forth Floor Brasserie has long been a destination for Edinburgh’s diners. And almost 15 years on, it’s still a treat to sit with a drink in hand, watching as the sun dips beneath the rooftops and the shadows turn the chimney pots black. It’s even more fun to do so while enjoying a plate of simple, contemporary food (although occasional timing issues in the kitchen doesn’t always make this an unalloyed pleasure). A cute little jar of

smoked mackerel rillettes comes with home-cured cucumber and warmed bread, a simple steak comes with great chips and a lamb cutlet is bolstered by its bed of smoky aubergine purée. But changes are afoot on the Forth Floor. A new menu launches in April 2016, promising to make more of the all-day experience and remove distinctions between breakfast, lunch and dinner menus, while aiming to keep the ‘classic bistro feel’ of the food. + Cocktails and that view - Cooking not always consistent

✱ Galvin Brasserie de Luxe Caledonian Hotel, Princes Street, West End (Map 4: B1, 21) 0131 222 8988, galvinbrasseriedeluxe.com | £16 (set lunch) / £26 (dinner)

Mirrors and bentwood chairs nod to Parisian brasserie style but the slickness characteristic of Galvin’s belies its major league hotel proprietors. The menu has three strands. First up are the stars of the Scottish seas in all their simple glory, oysters on ice, lobsters and langoustine with mayonnaise. Next, from the grill, come steaks classically garnished with field mushroom, tomato and watercress, with chips as a side if you wish. But what really sets off a joyous rattling of pots in the kitchen is the handful of French brasserie classics. Plat du jour boeuf bourguignon with purée potatoes, or a cocotte of cassoulet, the beans stewed to creaminess below a crisp-skinned chunk of confit duck and a nugget of boudin noir. Scottish cheeses show in prime condition, while expert apple tarte tatin combines caramelised juicy fruit with crisp, buttery pastry. The busy, bustling atmosphere mightn’t make this your top pick for a romantic dinner à deux, but for any other occasion, (and if it isn’t a red letter one, go for the lunchtime or early evening prix fixe), Galvin’s is hard to fault. + Meticulous take on classic French brasserie dining - Why no Scotch beef?

Hadrian’s Brasserie The Balmoral, 1 Princes Street, City Centre (Map 2A: D1, 2) 0131 557 5000, roccofortehotels.com/the-balmoralhotel | £15.50 (set lunch) / £26 (dinner)

The brasserie of the five-star Balmoral

Hotel is sure to be seriously classy, and Hadrian’s is every inch as polished as you’d expect. What might surprise, though, is how approachable it is. The staff are well-briefed and friendly, so if you’re unsure if a red wine sauce is the thing with roast turbot (it is), or what smoked mash will be like (perfect for soaking up the Innis and Gunn-infused juices of braised beef short rib), they will do a genial job of describing and advising. The clientele – a mix of hotel guests and locals – is necessarily wellheeled, but the lunch and early evening prix-fixe are affordable. Old world big hitters dominate the wine list, but even if you can’t run to Puligny Montrachet at £95 a bottle, you can savour a glass of red presented in a carafe, a civilised half poured for you and the rest left to breathe until you’re ready. Presentation is a treat, whether of a top-notch chargrilled chicken caesar salad or Blairgowrie beef grandly carved at your table for Sunday lunch. + Super-polished brasserie dining - Why the flamenco dancer prints?

Hamilton’s Bar and Kitchen 16–18 Hamilton Place, Stockbridge See Bars & Pubs

Hellers Kitchen 15 Salisbury Place, Southside (Map 3C: D3, 27) 0131 667 4654, hellerskitchen. co.uk | £14 (lunch) / £18.50 (dinner)

Owners Richard and Michelle Heller have got this neighbourhood dining malarkey down pat. Their Southside eatery transitions smoothly from breakfast dishes, through a lunch rush, before segueing into a cool dinner state, replete with fairy lights and acoustic pop covers on the stereo. The food is just as smooth. Chosen from a list of starters as long as your arm, the goat’s cheese salad combines walnuts, beetroot and balsamic dressing in pleasing balance, with no overpowering flavours or textures. For mains, a properly gamey venison haunch from the specials board is cooked to fallapart deliciousness, complemented by crisp dauphinoise potatoes. The veggie burger replaces boring bean for butternut squash and mushroom, these rich textures flanked by a sweet brioche bun. Desserts include white chocolate and raspberry

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cheesecake and a chocolate delice so dense it’s like chomping through a delicious mud pie. + Knows its place very well - Veggie mains limited

Hendersons Holyrood 67 Holyrood Road, Old Town See Cafés

Hendersons Salad Table 94 Hanover Street, New Town See Scottish

Hendersons Vegan 25 Thistle Street, New Town (Map 1A: D4, 86) 0131 225 2605, hendersonsofedinburgh.co.uk | £13.50 (lunch) / £14.50 (dinner)

The latest iteration of the Hendersons brand one-ups its beloved vegetarian locations with a thoroughly vegan incarnation. Just a chuck of a chickpea from their Hanover Street flagship, Hendersons Vegan took over a previously veggie-only site in July 2015. The daily specials board highlights ever-changing soups, soul bowls, desserts and more, while the mains menu is full of surprises: the ginger beer-battered tofu with wasabi pea purée is a spicy treat, and the tempeh and grilled chicory boat with satay has a muleish kick. Their cheesecake is notorious; a raspberry and coconut pleasure belying its dairy-free state, while the silky smoothness of the chocolate and banana mousse is near black magic. If you’re feeling naughty, you don’t have to, as all wines are organic – indeed, the restaurant aims to be fully organic soon. A welcome newcomer to the expanding Hendersons brand. + Don’t feel the need to simply ‘substitute meat’ - More dessert choices, please

Henricks Bar & Bistro 1 Barclay Place, Southside See Bars & Pubs

The Honours 58a North Castle Street, New Town (Map 1A: B4, 40) 0131 220 2513, thehonours. co.uk | Closed Sun/Mon | £18.50 (set lunch) / £40 (dinner)

Parisian-style brasserie dining gets a modern twist and Martin Wishart’s customary flair at his stylish New Town eatery. Pre-dinner aperitifs at the sit-up bar lead to an elegant linear room of contemporary tones hosting the lunch and evening à la carte menu. Chef Paul Tamburrini leads an accomplished kitchen putting a sophisticated spin on traditional French cuisine, with dishes skilfully composed and beautifully presented. Ox cheeks à la bordelaise and blanquette of veal appear as year-round classics, boosted by guest appearances from velvety rich pumpkin risotto and truffled scallop tagliatelle. Inveruriebased Donald Russell’s dry aged beef keeps the Josper grill in full flow, with madeira-glazed chateaubriand and duck fat chips proving a popular option to share. A carefully composed wine list supports early dining fixed menu options and an appealing weekend roast, all seamlessly choreographed by an engaging and polished front of house. While some dishes may stretch the wallet a touch, the quality of the overall experience makes it well worth the effort. + Could be the best risotto in town - Side dishes can push the bill up

Hotel du Vin Bistro 11 Bristo Place, Old Town (Map 2A: C4, 56) 0131 247 4900, hotelduvin.com | £24 (lunch) / £24 (dinner)

Cocooned from the traffic outside, the Hotel du Vin is a refuge for wine-loving Francophiles who can graze on moules

marinière, garlic snails and casseroles washed down with vin rouge. Hard to believe this was once the city poorhouse. The spacious, candlelit dining room feels quite intimate by night with well-spaced tables and walls festooned with maps and retro posters. If daunted by the 30-page wine list with 42 by the glass, help is on hand from the young, enthusiastic staff. The compact, seasonally changing menu offers the same French comfort food as every Hotel du Vin – expect classics like beef bourguignon and cassoulet. But they do it well, from fleshy, succulent mussels (a generous starter or main) to lightly charred steak frites with expert chips. Afterwards there’s a tempting array of pudding wines and port if you’ve run out of space for a tarte tatin or crème brûlée. + Great range of wines by the glass - French menu plays it safe

Howies at Waterloo 29 Waterloo Place, New Town See Scottish

Indigo Yard 7 Charlotte Lane, West End See Bars & Pubs

Iris 47a Thistle Street, New Town (Map 1A: D4, 83) 0131 220 2111, irisedinburgh. co.uk | No Kids (under 6) | £15.95 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

The gnocchi at Iris might just scoop the prize for prettiest dish in Edinburgh. Cubes of creamy goat’s cheese and bright winter squash top a mound of dark green and ruby red spinach and beetroot gnocchi. It’s a rainbow of colours that taste as good as it looks, and goes perfectly with a glass of soft and fruity sangiovese. Edinburgh’s Thistle Street provides competition aplenty, but Iris has been here since 2007 carving out and keeping a wee niche for herself. Décor is simple, streamlined and modern and the dependable à la carte is supplemented by a specials list that changes every three to four days. The kitchen sources well and gets the details right – the puff pastry wrapping a fine lamb loin topped with haggis is crisp, the duck crammed into a paper-thin spring roll is tasty, gooseberries make a pleasantly sharp foil for a crunchy crumble with vanilla bean ice-cream. This is the sort of reassuring place to duck into after a hard day or a long week, and come out with a smile on your face. + Seasonal specials and featured wines - Not a lot of elbow room when busy

“Apart from the food, the atmosphere, the service and the approachable flexibility of the menu, the other commendable thing about David Bann is that his prices represent good value. ” Joanna Blythman, The Herald

56-58 St Mary’s Street, Edinburgh (off The Royal Mile and The Cowgate) www.davidbann.com

0131 556 5888 Eating and Drinking Open 7 Days from 11am

WHISKI ROOMS WHISKY BAR OF THE YEAR SLTN’13 & BII ‘14

Itchycoo Bar & Kitchen 80 High Street, Old Town (Map 2B: A3, 6) 0131 473 6517, radissonblu.co.uk | £18 (lunch) / £27 (dinner)

Sitting just beyond the main doors of the Radisson Blu hotel on the Royal Mile, Itchycoo makes a convenient place to pop in for a bite to eat or a break from seeing the sights. Informal, with a succinct menu of pub favourites, the restaurant and adjacent bar area is patronised by hotel residents, conference attendees and locals making use of the handy central venue. The menu offers few surprises but what it does, it does well. Crisp and tender calamari, sitting in their paper cone, are dipped in the accompanying aioli, but are slightly meagre in portion size, whereas Cullen skink is creamily ample. The Black Isle lamb rump and rib is wonderfully charred outside, pink inside but slightly swamped by its pool of surrounding garlic and broad bean risotto. The 10 oz ribeye ticks all the boxes of expectation, with chips crunchy and tomato sizzling. A perky lemon tart is a pleasant end point to a filling meal. + Useful for tourists and business people - Ambience can feel a bit sterile

Bar – Restaurant – Whisky shop -Fresh local Scottish food served all day -Extensive Wine, Local Beers, Cocktail & Whisky List -Ardbeg Embassy status -Daily Whisky Tastings and Events s B Wh i s u y k WHISKI Rooms a n d y, G i f t s Ham 4-7 North Bank Street (the Mound), O n l i p e rs Edinburgh, EH1 2LP www ne: .w h i sk Reservations: 0131-225-7224 Book Online: www.whiskirooms.com

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Laila’s Bistro 63 Cockburn Street, Old Town See Round the World

✱ Monteiths 57–61 High Street, Old Town (Map 2B: A2, 3) 0131 557 0330, monteithsrestaurant. co.uk | £15 (lunch) / £25 (dinner)

An inquisitive meander under the twinkling lights of its entrance willow arch reveals Monteiths, a delightful basement cocktail bar and kitchen. Timber and pastel tones combine with cleverly mismatched furniture and intimate lighting to generate a cosy sophisticated warmth. The impressive bar shakes a splendid cocktail, from a Speyside treacle Old Fashioned to a rhubarb and thyme negroni, all supported by a respectable range of regional whiskies and craft beers, and a skillfully selected wine list. The kitchen steps up to the plate with confidently composed and well-presented modern Scottish cuisine. Tender lamb rump with smoked artichoke and lamb bacon hits the mark, while spiced lentils and madeira jus add just the right notes to butter-roasted hake. Wonderfully rich Arbroath smokie risotto appears on a focused weekend lunch menu, alongside eggs benedict with brown butter hollandaise and crispy ham hough salad. Attracting its fair share of returning regulars and Royal Mile tourists, this is one of those venues where the kitchen, bar and friendly front of house appear to be working in perfect harmony. + Try the risotto, lamb rump and a glass of passori rosso veneto - Blink and you’ll miss its entrance

Montpeliers of Bruntsfield 159–161 Bruntsfield Place, Southside (Map 3A: A4, 35) 0131 229 3115, montpeliersedinburgh.co.uk | £10 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Combining the elegant heritage of the Grade A listed Scotsman buildings with luxurious contemporary design, boutique furnishings and a location at the very centre of Edinburgh, North Bridge Lofts are the city’s newest and most desirable short-let apartments. Comprising studio, one and two-bed spaces, they are perfectly situated between the old and new town, ideal for exploring the city. Please email us directly to get the best possible price.

28 NORTH BRIDGE, EDINBURGH EH1 1QG INFO@NORTHBRIDGELOFTS.CO.UK WWW.NORTHBRIDGELOFTS.COM 0131 208 8028

Looking after its local community for well over 20 years, Bruntsfield stalwart Montpeliers has got a lot going on. In a venue bursting with great energy, early morning flat whites stretch to late night Margaritas and martinis, with brunch, lunch, afternoon cakes and dinner sandwiched in between. The crisp, contemporary interior really looks the part, with a sprinkling of bistro-style tables spilling outside and a lime green banquette linking the timber and stoneclad dining area. An extensive all-day breakfast and brunch menu features the mammoth Full Monty fry-up, with sharing boards, salads and sandwiches appearing on a well-balanced lunch list. Pan-fried sea bass and confit duck leg add a touch of polish to an evening à la carte packed full of familiar favourites, all matched to a respectable range of wines and dozens of craft beers. As if that wasn’t quite enough, there’s midweek burger and drinks deals, great value lunch and early dining offers and even plans to start delivering your food and wine directly to your front door. + Good all-rounder at the heart of its neighbourhood - Maybe look elsewhere for your quiet night out

Mums Great Comfort Food 4a Forrest Road, Old Town (Map 2A: C4, 58) 0131 260 9806, mumsgreatcomfortfood.co.uk | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

If you think comfort food is just about stodge and carbs, you’ve got it so wrong. Mums covers all the senses: the music is family car journey (Status Quo, Aerosmith, The Cure), the décor steals from the 70s, all geocentric wallpaper and kitsch light fittings. The staff are bigsister and cool-uncle chirpy, encouraging but not forcing indulgence. When it

comes down to it, bangers and mash is the go-to. The spinach, leek and cheddar sausages come nestled on an island of mashed potato, one of 16 choices Mums offers – turns out the sparky garlic mushroom option is a smart choice. For dessert, the caramelised banana split melts into a mush of cream, sprinkles and sauce, screaming ‘childhood’, while the treacle and date pudding is a sticky, solid mass of munch. Mums Great Comfort Food doesn’t claim to be fine dining, but with the sensorial memories it invokes, you won’t care. + The staff have got ‘service with a smile’ down pat - Could be a little less microwave-y

Museum Brasserie National Museum of Scotland, Chambers Street, Old Town See Arts Venues

New Chapter 18 Eyre Place, New Town See Scottish

No 8 Lister Square 8 Lister Square, Quartermile, Old Town See Bars & Pubs

North Bridge Brasserie 20 North Bridge, Old Town (Map 2A: D2, 11) 0131 622 2846, northbridgebrasserie. com | £14.50 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)

The Scotsman Hotel’s North Bridge Brasserie sits proudly housed in a striking former newspaper HQ. Ornate marble and timber panelling line the restaurant and the cocktail-friendly bar, with an elegant wraparound gallery level hovering above. In a room hosting breakfast to evening à la carte, there’s no shortage of menu options, with ambitions to harmonise the bar and dining areas and elevate the combined offer. Pumpkin velouté with blue cheese and walnuts appears on a gluten-free-friendly set menu lunch, triple-deck club sandwiches on the all-day bar menu or check out the three course pre-theatre deal. Dinner has a familiar Scottish slant, showcasing Loch Awe sea trout with Jerusalem artichoke and thyme gnocchi alongside braised Highland beef with baby onions and horseradish. There’s 28-day-aged

TIPLIST FOR ICE-CREAM • Affogato West End ice-cream parlour offering a wide selection of artisan ice-creams, plus cakes, wafﬂes and coffee. 48 • The Beach House Beachfront café serving up delicious breakfasts, soup, sandwiches, cakes and ice-cream. 48 • La Cerise Leith café where practically everything, from soups to ice-cream and cakes, is homemade. 50 • Mary’s Milk Bar Quirky retro hangout with daily-changing creative ice-cream ﬂavours and stunning castle views. 62 • Noodle N Ice Casual Thai dining with a loyal following and a big focus on noodles and icecream, as per the name. 104 • Söderberg Peter’s Yard Stockbridge Scandinavian artisanal bakery with yummy ice-cream, too. 58

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EDINBURGH

ribeye steaks, buffalo burgers from Puddledub Farm or a popular afternoon tea with optional prosecco if that’s your bag. Front of house blends a happy balance between formality and attentiveness in a brasserie that strives but doesn’t quite match the splendour of its setting. + Attractive room with service that aims to please - Some dishes don’t quite hit the mark

No 11 Brasserie 11 Brunswick Street, Leith (Map 5B: A5, 31) 0131 557 6910, 11brunswickst.co.uk | £30 (dinner)

Quietly tucked away in a boutique hotel at the London Road end of Brunswick Street, No. 11 has the quiet air of a refined yet modern club. Brunswick is one of several streets of 1820s terraced houses designed by William Playfair, the great Scottish architect. His understated dignity lives on in the calmly wellappointed dining room here, decorated in muted tones and crisp articulation. The short menu reflects similar style and consideration. Goat’s cheese, pine nut & sun-blushed tomato mousse is tangy and fresh on its crunchy garlic toast, while duck liver and smoked bacon parfait holds a musty, savoury essence cut through by the sweet roast pepper relish. The Finnan Haddie and roast leek risotto is creamy without being overly rich, while chunks of pan-fried venison steak are rosy and tender in their juniper game jus, balanced by fondant potato. Puddings hold their own, a particularly enjoyable mixed berry trifle with Italian meringue drawing to a close a relaxed and soothing evening. + Conscientious kitchen supported by lovely setting - Not well advertised but worth the hunt

The Observatory 2 Greenside Place, Old Town (Map 1B: D5, 44) 0131 525 8200, theglasshousehotel.co.uk | Closed Sun/ Mon | £25 (dinner)

The trek from the Glasshouse Hotel’s foyer to its second floor Observatory restaurant is long. Out of the lift and turn right along the bedroom corridor, past the fireside bar, down the stairs, along another hallway and you’ve arrived. What the journey reveals is a polite, well-dressed room of warm timber tones and olive green upholstery, with great views over Calton Hill. The eveningonly à la carte menu showcases an ambitious kitchen offering contemporary bistro fare, with the occasional flourish evident in the presentation. Try rabbit saddle with lemon thyme hotpot or pan-seared halibut with mussel and leek cream, while caramelised shallots and clapshot mash accompany Brewdog beermarinated beef cheek. An early dining pre-theatre deal features a crayfish and cockle salad with Bloody Mary dressing, alongside pork loin with cider chicory and thyme jus. With emerging plans to set up a pre-dinner drinks ‘base camp’ on the delightfully tranquil rooftop gardens, keep an eye out for the soon to be revealed picnics on the lawn – they’re bound to be popular. + Those views of Calton Hill - Curious night-time hall of mirrors effect from glazing

Olive Branch Bistro 91 Broughton Street, New Town (Map 1B: C4, 21) 0131 557 8589, theolivebranchscotland.co.uk | £18 (lunch) / £22 (dinner)

With its prime corner site, the Olive Branch offers a fishbowl view of Broughton Street through its large plate glass windows. Daylight floods in, and if warm and sunny the outside

tables are snapped up quick, but by night it manages to feel quite cosy and candle-lit. The boxy interior with its exposed brickwork and wooden floor might suggest a bistro chain, but it’s an independent, family-run restaurant. This comes through in the quality of the cooking and a short, inspired menu, boosted by specials on a blackboard. Starters range from marinated olives to soups, salads and a beetroot-stained gravadlax on a bed of rocket. Among the generous mains, a tangy short rib beef with honey and soy sauce is particularly moreish as is the spiced Moroccan couscous. Though the wine list and relative dearth of craft beers could be improved, this is a fine neighbourhood bistro doing the simple things well. + The spicy Mediterranean vibe in the kitchen - The slightly uninspired drinks list

One Square 1 Festival Square, West End (Map 4: C2, 38) 0131 221 6422, onesquareedinburgh. co.uk | £16.95 (set lunch) / £32 (dinner)

Looking out onto Sheraton Square, the Castle and Usher Hall from the comfort of the One Square dining room is rather a treat. Every table has a good view and yet, while overlooking the public square, guests doesn’t feel overly observed in this relaxed setting. Staff extend themselves warmly to reduce that hotel dining room feeling although a business/international traveller sense remains – not necessarily a bad thing. The menu is extensive and rather fun. Tarbert crab salad is light and creamy with beetroot yoghurt. Twice baked Mull cheddar and walnut soufflé is satisfying savoury. Meat eaters will relish the mains. Roast Gressingham duck breast comes in unexpectedly thick chunks of pink, tender meat, alongside expertly braised leg faggot and rich celeriac fondant, while hay-smoked Scottish venison haunch with Talisker purée and roast artichokes is tenderly resonant with a gamey Highland flavour, the artichokes providing an earthy undertone to the noble beast. Braised globe artichoke and spinach Wellington with Golden Cross goat’s cheese offers a pleasingly rich vegetarian option. If you’ve still room for dessert the selection is enticing. + Main courses truly excel - Sides are a bit dear at hotel prices

+ Brilliant use of space - Rammed during the Festival

Tollcross neighbourhood - Explaining the bistro’s name in polite company

The Ox La P’tite Folie

49–51 London Street, New Town See Bars & Pubs

Petit Paris

Tudor House, 9 Randolph Place, West End See French

38–40 Grassmarket, Old Town See French

Porto & Fi

NEW La Petite Mort

47 Newhaven Main Street, Leith See Cafés

32 Valleyfield Street, Tollcross (Map 3A: C1, 16) 0131 229 3693, lapetitemortedinburgh.co.uk | £18 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

NEW The Printing Press Bar & Kitchen

Tucked around the corner from the King’s Theatre, La Petite Mort feels intimate, while a back corridor linking it to Bennets delivers all the benefits of having a great bar on site. As such, there is a wide selection of real ale on tap, single malts and cocktail choices. This cosy gastropub takes that overused phrase quite seriously and delivers. The limited menu features interesting choices, including Scottish game highlighting good local sourcing. A starter of ginger cured, Scottish salmon tartare, balanced with bright cubes of beetroot, makes a colourful welcome to table. The earthy duo of rabbit is mellow but sparked by the vibrant tang of turmeric-laced piccalilli. Sliced breast of duck in soy reduction on a bed of string beans could be slightly pinker but the chunky herbcrumbed fillet of cod is expertly cooked resting on a savoury, melting heap of butter beans, butternut squash, samphire and pancetta, awakened by a flash of chilli. Puddings show a strong finish, with a trio of apple pastry, mousse and crumble particularly fun and filling. + Delightful and tasty addition to the

21–25 George Street, New Town (Map 1B: A6, 57) 0131 240 7177, printingpressedinburgh.co.uk | £18 (set lunch) / £28 (dinner)

As statements go, this splashy refurb of the former Tempus into a 160-seat bar and restaurant is a bold one. Food’s available from breakfast through to bar nibbles till 1am, with the aim of putting eating front and centre of the George Street experience. Doubtless some of this has been planned round the needs of the George Hotel’s guests, but there’s no whiff of the moribund hotel restaurant here. The space is classy and sassy, with a menu based round Scottish produce. Pleasingly that means a strong focus on game, as well as the familiar trinity of salmon/ seafood/beef. Well-cooked scallops are in danger of being overwhelmed by a mountain of barley flavoured with squid ink, while a better-balanced langoustine thermidor tart is oozy and rich. Lamb pie is (welcomingly) simpler – a perfect winter dish – while tender partridge gets an overwhelming hit of spice from its accompanying red cabbage. Desserts are homemade, with a marmalade steamed

✱ The Outsider 15–16 George IV Bridge, Old Town (Map 2A: C3, 45) 0131 226 3131, theoutsiderrestaurant.com | £12 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Given its location, the Outsider could just rely on passing trade: to its credit, it doesn’t. Plenty of thought has gone into both menu and how to make the most of this large, open space. Clever use of spotlights and candles means, despite high ceilings, there’s a cosy feel amid the dark charcoal walls and, if you manage to nab a seat by the far windows, there are spectacular views of the castle. Deservedly popular and good-value lunch specials change daily, featuring dishes like beef cheeks and chilli ragù with berlotti beans, or coley fillet with homemade lemon hollandaise. There is always a freshly-made soup and usually a few wine bin ends too. In the evening, among the ‘chunky healthy lines’, you can expect to find lamb balls with merguez, covered in harissa sauce which adds a spicy Moroccan edge, while steamed mussels are plump and tender with an accompanying tin of chips. Star among puddings is lemon sorbet with a shot of icy vodka. There are some wellchosen wines from Great Grog, a nice range of cordials, but just two or three craft beers.

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pudding stealing the show. Although there are a few teething problems, it seems the Printing Press has hit the ground running, with an ambition as bright and clear as its twinkling chandeliers. + Lots of lovely game - Which means there’s not much choice for veggies

NEW The Rabbit Hole 11 Roseneath Street, Southside (Map 3C: B2, 36) 0131 229 7953 | Closed Mon | £19 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Marchmont newcomer the Rabbit Hole is off to a promising start. This relaxed neighbourhood brasserie draws complementary influences from its Italian and Canadian husband-and-wife team Antonello and Mo. Every square inch of their compact, well-dressed room has been put to good use, with its curving bar, cosy table in the snug and comfy window booths all generating a welcoming warmth. A cheery front of house team that aims to please services a skillful kitchen. Placemat menus reveal a confidently composed all-day à la carte featuring chicken liver parfait and duck leg confit alongside seared scallops with curried cauliflower purée. Familiar classics moules marinière and ribeye steak star alongside the likes of duck breast with orange-glazed chicory, and Tuscan fish stew with saffron potato. As the restaurant begins to find its place, plans are afoot to restyle lunch as a good-value, fixed-price offer, with suggestions of early dining deals and a bespoke bar food menu to come. + Well-pitched local brasserie, full of good intentions - The much-needed draught lobby is on order

The Raeburn 112 Raeburn Place, Stockbridge See Scottish

Redwood Bistro 1 Meadow Place Road, Corstorphine See Round the World

Rick’s 55a Frederick Street, New Town (Map 1A: C4, 74) 0131 622 7800, ricksedinburgh. co.uk | £14 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

After 15 years in operation, this oncecool kid on the Frederick Street block has grown up into a classic lounge bar favourite. Down a few steps and past the outdoor tables, the shiny plateglass doors give on to an atmospheric low-lit space appointed in silvery greys and warm wood tones. Low sofas interspersed with areas for more formal dining make for a relaxed and surprisingly intimate ambience whether the occasion is dining with friends, or splashing the cash on cocktails or a celebratory glass or two of fizz. Grazing is well catered for with charcuterie platters, breads, bowls and sharing boards, while the likes of braised pig cheek makes a tasty preamble to competently executed mains such as hake with mussels and potted shrimp butter. A bubbling pot of boozy cherry crumble with mascarpone is a ‘one portion, two spoons’ treat, while for those with more dash than cash there are deals a-plenty, such as weekly burger and steak nights. + Comfortable, competent and 20 or more wines by the glass - Diners may feel a bit squeezed out on busy weekend nights

The Roamin’ Nose 14 Eyre Place, New Town See Cafés

Rollo 108 Raeburn Place, Stockbridge See Bars & Pubs

The Printing Press Bar & Kitchen (page 43): lively and classy new George Street venue

The Royal Dick Bar & Bistro 1 Summerhall, Southside (Map 3C: D2, 18) 0131 560 1572, summerhall.co.uk/ the-royal-dick | £14 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Across the courtyard at the back, you’ll find Summerhall’s bar and bistro, both open year-round. The restaurant is an airy, L-shaped affair, scattered with wellspaced, second-hand tables and chairs. Former vet students might recognise some of the bones and microscopes displayed, though perhaps not the pith helmets and clay masks which decorate the walls. The menu is less eclectic, with fish and chips with mushy peas or the Royal Dick burger available for lunch and dinner. Later on the dinner choices are then boosted by the likes of beetroot risotto, a slim fillet of sea bass with a sprig of samphire, or a hearty bowl of juicy lamb chops with mint couscous. Starters include mussels in a wine or coconut sauce, mac ’n’ cheese or ‘light bites’ like chips with blue cheese mayo. For drinks there are some great cocktails and a small wine list. As a bonus you can also sip on a Barney’s beer or Pickering’s gin, both of which are brewed and distilled on site. + Barney’s beer brewed on site - Disappointing sea bass

The Salisbury Arms 58 Dalkeith Road, Southside See Bars & Pubs

and brunch features eggs benedict with a truffle hollandaise twist alongside popular lunch favourite moules-frîtes and smoked haddock risotto with squid ink. King scallops with anchovy butter appear on a focused dinner menu, with Burnside Farm roe deer and lemongrass-pickled pear, together with pistachio-crusted lamb rack and salt-baked beetroot. Equally at home rolling out coffee and cake or freshly shucked oysters, this vibrant venue continues to keep its loyal band of returning regulars content. + Appealing venue with strong all-day options - Large central bar dominates main room

Sasso 100 Lindsay Road, Leith See Italian

Shackleton’s Bar & Brasserie 12–16 South Learmonth Gardens, Comely Bank, West End (Map 4: A1, off) 0131 315 2226, channings.co.uk | £20 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

The famous Polar explorer, whose beard has inspired a thousand hipsters, now has a beer and a bistro named after him. You can sip on a Shackleton, brewed by East Lothian’s Belhaven, while deciding what to eat from the all-day menu in this

Salt Café 54–56 Morningside Road, Southside (Map 3B: A2, 2) 0131 281 1885 | £8.50 (lunch) / £24.50 (dinner)

In a compact interior packed full of character and quirky touches, daytime café culture seamlessly stretches into informal evening dining at Morningside’s Salt Café. Reclaimed materials cleverly combine to reveal scaffolding-board bench tables and a sit-up bar crafted from old snooker table slate. Wellsourced menus sway with the seasons, showcasing Scottish produce with an understated confidence. A chilled-out front of house team delivers carefully considered, well-dressed dishes from an ambitious kitchen, all matched to a strong selection of wines. The busy breakfast

compact, basement restaurant that is part of Channing’s Hotel. It has a separate entrance off the street, but there is no real escaping the ‘hotel’ vibe, with its functional bar furniture and surfeit of padded vinyl. Starters are not overly generous and a tiny pair of scallops looked a little lost on a huge plate, but the mains are a definite step up. Lamb rump works well with roast shallots and pea purée, while a duck breast with curly kale and puy lentils is equally tender. To finish, expect time-honoured bistro staples like sticky toffee pudding and chocolate tart. + Lamb rump and pea purée - The basement hotel-bistro vibe

ONLINE LISTINGS For full opening hours, further details on facilities, individual location maps plus web and social media links, go to

list.co.uk/food

✱ The Shore Bar & Restaurant 3 The Shore, Leith (Map 5A: C1, 11) 0131 553 5080, fishersbistros.co.uk | £15 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Some Edinburgh dining spots have earned the right to be considered classics. Reliable, high quality, comfortable, welcoming – dining at the Shore feels restorative. To speak of dark wooden surrounds, starched white table clothes, and ‘bright as a button’ service might sound a bit hackneyed but the Shore feels like the original, like coming home to the mother ship. If classics appeal, try a pile of mussels in unctuous cream, white wine and garlic or the fork-tender beef carpaccio with parmesan, pickled mushrooms and rocket, drizzled with pistachio & truffle dressing – an absolute standout. Vegetarians are rewarded with creamy and savoury broccoli, walnut and blue cheese risotto. Roasted hake, all fish sweetness and too rarely available, rides proudly aloft seaweed & crab risotto with spinach. Mad Pie Mondays offer 2-for-1 bubbling fish or venison pies, and haddock and chips come Japanese-style crunchy coated in panko breadcrumbs. Brioche bread and butter pudding with lavender custard is a great twist on another classic. Consider enjoying these accompanied by live jazz Tuesday and Thursday evenings or Sunday lunchtime. + Eating well in relaxed but stylish surroundings - Hard to resist three courses

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Wild Wood Café

Apiary Restaurant (page 37): eclectic menus full of punchy flavours

The Skylark 241–243 High Street, Portobello (Map 5B: C5, off) 0131 629 3037, theskylark.co.uk | £11 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Some places just feel instantly part of the warp and weft of a community – like they’ve always been there, or should have been. The Skylark is one of those unique creatures and makes Portobello High Street the richer for it. It changes with the day’s light. There are talking library mornings for youngsters, film afternoons for kids of all ages, DJ evenings and local musicians/folk the owners just like. It’s a place that will change around you if you have enough refills (coffee or beer) but each incarnation will feel genuine and right. The menu also changes but always feels nicely homey, giving balanced attention to vegetarians, vegans and carnivores. Mussel popcorn, tempura-coated juicy fellows for dipping in homemade tartar sauce, are excellent, as is the soothing potato dauphinoise gratin as a starter. Steak frîtes, its thickcut bavette steak encircled with two-day wine jus and crisp chips, is ultimate comfort food but burgers made of pulled confit of duck, deep-fried chicken or aubergine and roast pepper give it a run for its money. Indulgently moreish puddings cap things off nicely. + The whole spirit of the place (and the great beer) - Music can get a bit loud on weekend evenings

Overlooking the Festival Theatre, Spoon’s funky first-floor room evokes hints of a 1970’s sitcom set, with décor that is a wonderful work in progress. An eclectic range of mismatched furniture is interspersed with frilly lampshades, flocked wallpaper and a backdrop of quirky curios and long-forgotten artwork. The experienced kitchen draws on a broad range of influences, with simply prepared bistro classics, big on flavour and respectful of season. Blueberry waffles and a popular mixed grill feature on an all-day breakfast, with a splendid Sunday roast as well as weekend brunch staples like eggs benedict and Arbroath smokies. Afternoon coffee and cake complements a fairly focused daytime menu, showcasing home-smoked ham hock with pickled beetroot, and gingercured salmon with pea shoots and apple. As daytime stretches into evening, slowcooked lamb flank with butter bean purée appears on a rustic-style dinner menu, alongside sea bream fillet with saffron cauliflower couscous. With chilled-out service matching casual all-day dining, it’s reassuring to note that it’s only the décor that’s stuck in a self-imposed timewarp. + Appealing all-day options - Some dishes could be more polished

Stac Polly Brasserie, Wine and Gin Bar 29–33 Dublin Street, New Town See Bars & Pubs

Smoke Stack 53–55 Broughton Street, New Town See Steakhouses & Burgers

Söderberg Peter’s Yard Stockbridge 3 Deanhaugh Street, Stockbridge See Cafés

Spoon 6a Nicolson Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D4, 79) 0131 623 1752, spoonedinburgh. co.uk | £13 (lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Sylvesters 55–57 West Nicolson Street, Southside (Map 2A: D5, 68) 0131 662 4493, sylvestersedinburgh.co.uk | Closed Sun | £12.95 (set lunch) / £9 (dinner)

Oooh, aaah. Wow. Yes! Yes! YES! Not Harry meeting Sally, just two very happy diners following up a homemade wild rabbit ravioli starter with a venison suet pudding that’s as comforting and fluffy as a goose-down duvet, and oozing with chanterelle mushrooms and juniper-

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infused gravy. Not food you’d want in July, but by then, the menu will have chased through all the treats and surprises the changing months can offer. Memories of his mum’s Aga coupled with training under Neil Forbes at the Atrium shine through Kieran Sylvester’s cooking. You’re spoilt for choice, whether it’s a generous chicken supreme topping a tottering tower of potato rosti and glossy seasonal roots, or pork cheeks braised to succulence in beer. There’s Eteaket teas, Pickering’s gin from just down the road, and such puddings! How to choose between bread and butter pudding (like mum’s, only pepped up with white chocolate and cranberries) or the wobbly lusciousness-zapped-with-citrus that is mascarpone and orange cheesecake? If in doubt and there’s a Harry-met-Sally moment at a nearby table, just have what she’s having. + Joyful eating - 70s music and lights on the bright side

✱ Three Birds Restaurant 3–5 Viewforth, Bruntsfield, Southside (Map 3A: A3, 33) 0131 229 3252, threebirds.co.uk | £10 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

This Bruntsfield bistro has a cosy, neighbourhood feel with space for just 36 diners, at a squeeze. Attracted by its eclectic cooking, full of big, bold flavours, locals soon beat a path to its door when it opened four years ago. Being busy and relatively pocket-sized means you’ll need to book even on a wet Tuesday night as well as at lunchtime due to the popular £10 two course deal. There’s plenty of spice in the half dozen starters from chilli-fried chicken to pilpechuma-spiced roast aubergine, while the slow-roasted pork belly main course is well matched with sweet chargrilled pineapple. Alternatively choose a big dish to share like the ‘3 birds & beasts’ platter, or pick from the two specials that change every few days. To wash all that down, there’s a compact wine list – all available by the glass, plus five craft beers. + The exuberant, bold, confident cooking - Tables can feel a bit squished

Tigerlily 125 George Street, New Town (Map 1A: B5, 43) 0131 225 5005, tigerlilyedinburgh. co.uk | £10 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

With its name in red neon lights, Tigerlily is a mash-up of cocktail bar, nightclub and restaurant. There’s a DJ on Friday and Saturday nights, mirror tiles on the pillars, low-slung banquettes for groups, and tall tables for couples where even the highest heels will swing free. It’s bright, busy and doesn’t hide its light under a bushel – best dive headfirst into the menu, where among the starters are tasty Orkney scallops on a smear of parsnip purée. Mains include the likes of lobster, crab mac and cheese, assorted burgers and a slightly bland king prawn and monkfish curry. The ‘hot off the coals’ section covers surf and turf, spears (kebabs) and steaks of various magnitudes, right up to the mighty ‘Jurassic’ (500g). The cocktailled drinks list, which runs to many pages, is titled: ‘Drink, drank, drunk’ – advice some follow to the letter – which makes for a lively atmosphere, especially at weekends. + High-energy bling factor - You need to be in the mood

Timberyard 10 Lady Lawson Street, West End See Scottish

NEW Tony Singh at Apex Grassmarket 31–35 Grassmarket, Old Town (Map 2A: A3, 42) 0131 300 3456, apexhotels.co.uk/

apex-grassmarket-hotel/dining | £18 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Those that managed to take time out of their busy 2015 Edinburgh Festival schedule to grab a bite to eat may well have come across Tony Singh’s pop-up at the Apex hotel in the Grassmarket. Now he’s back, with a menu that captures the madness of the festival all year round. Think fish tacos rolling in on ‘taco trucks’, Wagyu beef burgers with truffled onions and fries covered in lashings of Tony’s own chicken tikka massala. All this before you’ve even had a chance to glance at the nostalgic ice-cream floats and boozy, childhood sweetie dessert cocktails. The drinks list is less adventurous and hosts only one Scottish brewer, Harviestoun – strange for a restaurant that boasts about its Scottish roots – although wine drinkers have a more varied choice. Décor feels a little bland, but with a spruce up it could reflect Tony’s playful take on sharing food and offer a pretty exciting dining experience for those bored of the Grassmarket’s tourist traps. + Friendly bunch of staff - Prices are a bit cheeky considering portion sizes are small

Wild Wood Cafe Marchmont

Seasonal produce, exciting brunch, fresh evening menu, great coffee, wines & a very warm welcome. 0131 446 9873 hello@wildwoodcafe.co.uk 146 Marchmont Road, Edinburgh, EH9 1AQ

The Turquoise Thistle Hotel Indigo, 51–59 York Place, New Town (Map 1B: C5, 33) 0131 556 5577, hiedinburgh.co.uk | £10 (lunch) / £10 (dinner)

Within the four-star Indigo Hotel, Turquoise Thistle is a contemporary bistro full of everything you might expect from a place with the word ‘turquoise’ in its name: aptly coloured stags heads and framed thistle prints. Some classic dishes are confidently served up here, with starters including garlic bread and chicken liver pâté and mains like beer-battered pollock and grilled Scottish salmon. Where it truly succeeds is in its grill menu: the 35-day-aged Buccleuch sirloin steak is cooked to exact specifications, accompanied superbly by seasonal wild mushrooms, while the Cajun chickenbreast burger on a ciabatta bun is a lighter yet flavoursome option. The menu is simple yet well-executed, the service attentive and friendly and the décor chic yet unfussy. It’s a good place for New Town lunch or even late night whisky: the bar has a fine selection. + Good choice on the grill menu - Starters are a little heavy

Urban Angel 121 Hanover Street, New Town See Cafés

The Voodoo Rooms 19a West Register Street, New Town (Map 1B: B6, 51) 0131 556 7060, thevoodoorooms.com | No Kids | £16 (set lunch) / £16 (set dinner)

The clubby Voodoo Rooms major on live music, mixology and food, in that order. Sitting above the Café Royal and sharing the same sumptuous Victorian décor, you can eat at one of the padded booths set opposite the long bar, or in the separate cosy dining room. Choose from the likes of gravadlax with pickled fennel, carpaccio of beef, or some juicy baby squid spiced with chorizo and capers to start. For mains, expect bistro staples like burgers or a generous ribeye steak and chunky chips, with a single veggie option like a Moroccan tagine. Alternatively, there are three sharing platters, ideal for picking from while you enjoy a little something from the excellent cocktail list. There’s also the option to mix your own cocktail, plus a small wine list and draught beer range. The volume cranks up on weekend nights, so either eat early or get working on those lip-reading skills. + Tequila-based cocktails - Shouting over the music The List Eating & Drinking Guide 47

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✱ NEW The Walnut 9 Croall Place, Leith Walk, Leith (Map 5B: A4, 21) 0131 281 1236 | Closed Tue | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Whoever noted that wonderful things come in small packages must have predicted the success and joyfulness that is the Walnut. Halfway down Leith Walk, patrons crowd around cosy tables, taking it in turns to read each other the day’s blackboard of engaging dishes. Meaty, cold crab claws with vibrant aioli, rich fish soup with a swirl of rouille or creamy potato and horseradish soup stand out among the smaller plates. But don’t stop there, the big plates are yet to come – a succinct but balanced offering of meat, vegetarian and fish. Slow-cooked beef short ribs tear away from the bone, while beetroot risotto with gorgonzola and walnut pesto is shockingly seductive. Firm roast hake, cooked just so, is coated in a savoury tapenade that counters the sweetness of the fish. A fresh lemony take on Bakewell tart is addictive and the dark chocolate, sea salt and rosemary tart is a showstopper. The Walnut’s BYOB status benefits from the ample wine/beer selection at Tesco’s and Oddbins just across the road. + Stunningly good value for a highperformance meal - You really, really need to book

The Water of Leith Café Bistro 1 Howard Street, Canonmills See Cafés

Whiski Rooms 4, 6 & 7 North Bank Street, Old Town See Scottish

NEW Wild Wood Café 146 Marchmont Road, Southside (Map 3C: A3, 32) 0131 446 9873, wildwoodcafe. co.uk | £12 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Confidently striding onto the Marchmont café scene, new arrival Wild Wood has hit the ground running. The bright, fresh interior, with its powder-blue pastel tones and woodland scene graphics, has a good daytime vibe and strives hard to generate a touch of evening candlelit charm. Owner Emma leads a friendly front of house, pitching in with her signature raspberry and white chocolate cake, washed down with coffee from Stockbridge’s Mr Eion. A strong breakfast and brunch features blueberry and coconut pancakes, caramel saucedrenched French toast and popular eggs benedict with smoky bacon and sriracha hollandaise. The lunch menu matches vegetarian-friendly soups to sourdough open sandwiches, packed with smoked mackerel pâté and apple salsa, or ham and cheese rarebit with caramelised onions. The skilful kitchen takes a mid-afternoon breather before reemerging with an appealing dinner menu, showcasing smoked haddock risotto and duck breast with pak-choi and star anise jus. With a loyal local crowd to satisfy, Wild Wood is showing early signs that it may be packing just enough breakfast, lunch and evening punch. + Great brunch and appealing evening menu - Room still feels at its best during the day

Get up-to-date opening hours at list.co.uk/ food

CAFES Yes, multi-national chain coffee-houses abound, but the independent café scene in Edinburgh remains healthy and strong. Many have their own story to tell: from ethical chocolatiers and tea hunters, to cat cafés, Italian-trained icecream makers and dedicated vegetable growers, the list is varied and long. Some of our canny bakers and baristas are making an impact on the wider world too, with elegantly packaged tea leaves, luxury chocolates and carefully selected coffee beans making their way across the UK and overseas. Meanwhile lucky locals can simply sit back and enjoy the pleasure of a good cuppa on the corner. Reviewers: Cat Crawford, Louise Donoghue, Hannah Jefferson, Rachel Kavish, Chris Marks, Carine Seitz

Affogato 36 Queensferry Street, West End (Map 4: B1, 9) 0131 225 1444, affogatogelato. co.uk | Closed Mon | £6 (lunch)

Located at the heart of the West End, Affogato is a gelateria offering a daily-changing range of authentic icecreams, handmade on the premises. From bestsellers like salted caramel to eclectic specials such as fiery dark chocolate and chilli, flavours are a world away from the usual mint choc chip and synthetic vanilla. Ice-cream aside, there’s a short menu of sweet treats including generously topped waffles and interesting home-baking such as beetroot and chocolate cake. A decent selection of dairy-free gelato are also available, meaning there’s more than lemon sorbet on offer for vegan customers, as well as gluten-free ice-cream cones. Enjoy the cosy seating area, or for takeaway choose from a single scoop for a sunny stroll, to a whole tub for demolishing on the sofa later on. + Grown-up ice-cream featuring old and new favourites - Not for those on the sugar-free bandwagon

additional evening opening planned around a menu that celebrates simple, local food combined with some global inspiration. + Lovely atmosphere - Limited food options at Causewayside

La Barantine • 202 Bruntsfield Place, Southside (Map 3A: A4, 36) 0131 229 0267 | £7.20 (set lunch) • 89 West Bow, Old Town (Map 2A: B3, 36) 0131 226 4927, fb.com/LaBarantine | £8.50 (lunch)

This bite-size Bruntsfield café is a genuine taste of France and the perfect stop-off for morning coffee and croissants. Picturesque patisserie are baked by pastry chef Vincent Alpincourt at La Barantine’s sister café in Victoria Street while his wife oversees business in Bruntsfield. An array of éclairs, tarts and macarons are pleasingly elegant and formal though the atmosphere remains relaxed and friendly. Brunch here is evidently popular, with morning papers out and a pile of pastries waiting at the counter. Lunch too is good value for money. The menu of standard café fare, such as sandwiches and quiches, is enlivened with continental flavours and creative touches. A tartine with sourdough bread, avocado, tomatoes and Bayonne ham is an inspired combination. Brews from jasmine to second-flush darjeeling are served with a timer, for optimum taste, and an indulgent hot chocolate is infused with orange blossom tea. + Pretending to be in Paris while eating a beautful eclair - Not much room between tables in Bruntsfield

The Beach House 57 Bath Street, Portobello (Map 5B: C5, off) 0131 657 2636, thebeachhousecafe. co.uk | £10 (lunch)

Few places offer a view to match the sweep of beach, sea and sky from this bright and spacious family friendly Portobello café. The Beach House serves breakfast and lunch with a flair that ensures it’s busy even when the promenade is deserted. A tangy beetroot soup gets a twist of yoghurt, horseradish and dill drizzle, a smoked salmon sandwich comes with mushy peas on seaweed sourdough, while a brie panini is boosted by homemade ratatouille. The emphasis is on local organic ingredients – the meat and fruit cordials come from Portobello, cakes are baked locally and many of the greens grow in the café’s garden. Mezze platters and breakfast specials change daily, children get their own menu and service is fast and attentive. For early summer 2016, plans are to have a licence in place and for early evening opening with tapas plates, platter and drinks. This is a place for enjoying the view on the plate as much as the one from the window. + A room with a view - Be prepared to queue on a sunny day

Bijou 2 Restalrig Road, Leith See Bistros & Brasseries

Black Medicine Coffee Company • 7/8 Barclay Terrace, Southside (Map 3A: B2, 26) 0131 625 5630 • 2 Nicolson Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D4, 80) 0131 557 6269, blackmed.co.uk | £5.50 (lunch)

Archipelago Bakery 39 Dundas Street, New Town See Cafés: Wee Places

Artisan Roast • 57 Broughton Street, New Town • 138 Bruntsfield Place, Southside • 100a Raeburn Place, Stockbridge See Cafés: Wee Places

NEW August 21 • 89 Causewayside, Southside (Map 3C: D3, 24) 0131 629 2080 • 135 Comiston Road, Southside (Map 3B: A4, off) 0131 629 4044 | £5 (lunch)

Named for the day it opened, August 21 is Earthy co-founder Pete Jackson’s attempt at infusing Edinburgh’s burgeoning café culture with a more inclusive, neighbourhood feel. The Causewayside original, a mash-up of mid-century chic and Victoriana glamour, is a daytime affair, offering a range of hot and cold sandwiches and alluring cookies, brownies and cakes, with coffee from Glasgow-based roaster Matthew Algie. Expect picnicstyle takeaway salad boxes to follow in time for summer too. The second venue in Comiston, which opened early 2016, harbours bigger aspirations, with

August 21: with two new venues shaping up as cool neighbourhood cafés

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EDINBURGH

As well as the busy, student-filled Black Medicine on Nicolson Street, this smaller outpost sits beside Bruntsfield Links. It has a cosy, log-cabin feel with wood-panelled walls and chunky wooden furniture. On clear days, you can soak up the sun streaming in though the south-facing window overlooking the links, or grab some cushions in the ‘tree house’ upstairs. The soft click of laptops compete with the ever-hissing coffee machine, as busy as any in Milan (almost). A simple menu of panini, wraps, melts and bagels is chalked on a board and the pure Arabica coffee beats the pants of any of the generic high street coffee chains. In particular, the smoothies are superb, especially the mixed summer berries, ginger and pomegranate. + The smoothies - Barclay Terrace can feel a bit crammed

The Blue Bear 9 Brandon Terrace, Canonmills (Map 1B: A1, 7) 0131 629 0229, cafebluebear.co.uk | £9 (lunch)

How do you like your eggs? The Blue Bear likes them as every imaginable permutation of eggs benedict. Theirs are an art form, the Royale notable in particular for its generous serving of smoked salmon and smooth hollandaise. It doesn’t stop there: the breakfast/brunch menu (served all day) features full breakfasts through to homemade granola and porridge, and everything in between; waffles with bacon and maple syrup tick the salty-sweet box with aplomb. Lunches include soups, salads, stovies, and a mountainous bowl of chilli nachos as well as light bites and sharing plates. All the baking is done in-house, such as carrot cake rich in walnuts and juicy sultanas. There’s a kids’ menu, a cocktail menu, Steampunk coffee and, to top it all, you can have a game of table tennis downstairs. If you’re looking for an ideal spot for Sunday brunch, you might never want to leave. + Consistently brilliant food, incredibly friendly service - Can get very busy so arrive early to secure a table

with a focus on coffee, tea and scones and the aforementioned ice-cream, plans are afoot to expand both opening hours and menu as the café settles in to its really quite lovely space. Soup, bacon butties, panini and a wee takeaway kiosk for those wanting to grab and go are all on the to-do list, so here’s hoping the great British summer delivers plenty of opportunities for a wander by the water and a cone or a coffee (hunks and lovelies optional, of course). [Not open for a full review at time of going to press – check list.co.uk/food for updates.]

Bon Papillon 15 Howe Street, Stockbridge See Arts Venues

Breadshare Bakery • 11–12 Seafield Road East, Portobello, Portobello (Map 5B: C5, off) 0131 258 5165 • 4 Jane Street, Leith (Map 5A: A1, 3) 0131 538 4518, breadshare.co.uk | £6 (lunch)

Is this the best bread in the world? It really could be – and who’d have thought you’d find it in a wee not-forprofit bakery on the slightly seedy side of Portobello? Breadshare is first and foremost a bakery, but it opened as a café and bread-making workshop in 2015 in a bid to convince locals of the joy (and health benefits) of slow-fermented sourdough bread. If you fancy popping in for a spot of lunch, everything is vegetarian, organic and as locally sourced as possible (they’ve also just started milling their own flour). There’s a choice of stew and soup, which could be a delightfully thick and slightly spicy tomato soup or a rich bean stew, both of which come with a yummy bran scone or cheese scroll. If you’re looking for something sweet, try the fruity vegan teacake or the popular almond swirl. Finally, city-centre bread-lovers can now get in on the action too, thanks to Breadshare’s new bakery and takeaway shop at the corner of Jane Street and Leith Walk. + The healthiest, tastiest, loveliest bread around - It’s all about the bread; don’t expect a varied menu

The Bluebird Café 5 Canonmills, Canonmills (Map 1B: A2, 9) 07749 971847, thebluebirdcafeedinburgh.com | £7 (lunch)

This friendly little place has ambitions as big as the portions of Deep Southern comfort food it doles out. Named after a famous Nashville music venue, the Bluebird Café owes its existence to owner Kylie Macgregor’s love of the food and sounds she discovered visiting the southern states of the USA. Try a stack of Tennessee buttermilk pancakes with crisp bacon and maple syrup for breakfast, or choose from hotdogs, meatloaf burgers, nachos and quesadillas for lunch with a portion of homemade slaw or pulled pork on the side. Everything from the meats to the soups and cakes is handmade, there are vegetarian and vegan options and the menu can be adjusted to dietary needs. There are also occasional live music nights where a two-course meal is served up alongside an acoustic set in what must be Edinburgh’s most intimate venue. + A real Southern embrace - It’s a bit of a squeeze

NEW Boardwalk Beach Club 50 Marine Drive, Silverknowes (Map 4, A1, of) 0131 336 2661 | Closed Mon/Tues

Publicity for the Boardwalk Beach Club’s launch promises ‘hot beach hunks and bikini lovelies plus Luca’s ice-cream’. At least one of these things is true and happening right now down at the Cramond foreshore, as the team put the final touches to their bright and airy café with the killer views. Starting small

23) 0131 558 7111, broughton-deli.co.uk | £11 (lunch)

It’s clear that a lot of love and attention goes into the food in this bright and colourful deli café, with its novel twist on the lunchtime menu: a choice of flatbreads, crêpes, tacos and tarts. Almost everything, from chutneys and marmalades to bread, cakes and baba ganoush, is made on the premises. Deli salads are a big draw, loaded with ingredients like quinoa, mint and beetroot, celeriac, spelt and rocket. There is also a big push towards gluten-free and vegan versions of many of the dishes (do ask, as this isn’t always mentioned on the menu). The deli does a busy take-away trade and if you’re sitting in you need to order at the counter, but they do bring your food to your table. + Salads that shout for attention - GM and vegan achievements barely get a mention

NEW Burr & Co 20 George Street, New Town (Map 1B: A6, 57) 0131 240 7166, theburrandco. co.uk | £6.50 (set lunch)

As part of the George Hotel, Burr & Co, a continental-style café, provides an informal yet classy breakfast, lunch and coffee spot on Edinburgh’s George Street. Sharing its kitchen with the hotel’s in-house restaurant, the Printing Press Bar and Kitchen, customers can enjoy high quality, yet reasonably priced, sweet and savoury treats. Wood-panelled walls, mosaic flooring and marbletopped tables provide a setting akin to a Viennese café. A healthy quinoa and bulgur wheat salad balances sweet raisins with salty capers and black olives, alongside tomatoes, pine nuts and beetroot. To follow, an irresistible lemon meringue pie, with thin and crisp pastry, is filled with zingy and velvety smooth lemon curd, which beautifully offsets the sweet marshmallow-like meringue. An almond milk cappuccino, prepared with Caravan coffee, is smooth and creamy with good depth of flavour. If time is not on your side, worry not; all the delights are available for takeaway. + Exceptionally good baked goods - A bit cramped and noisy when busy

Brew Lab • 6–8 South College Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D4, 81) 0131 662 8963 • NEW Queensferry Street Lane, West End (Map 4: B1, 13) brewlabcoffee.co.uk | £7.50 (lunch)

Minimalist in design but lavish in technique, Brew Lab uses the latest coffee kit and knowledge to create caffeinated gold. Each cup is measured, weighed, and timed to ensure the single origin beans are infused into liquid perfection. Passionate baristas explain the processing of the bottled and tapped cold brew while showing off impressive latte art skills. Food is locally sourced with a selection of Lovecrumbs cakes and pastries sitting prominently on the counter. Union of Genius soups and salads are accompanied by well filled crusty baguettes in meat, veggie, and vegan options. The South College Street café is dominated by students relaxing on sofas and sharing tables while the Queensferry Lane branch is smaller and frequented by local office staff and commuters. With their two locations and a range of coffee-making classes in their training lab, Brew Labs is on a quest to share their caffeine alchemy with the bleary-eyed masses. + Excellent coffee and Lovecrumbs cakes; a match made in heaven - Cold brew coffee on tap only available in the warmer months

Broughton Delicatessen 7 Barony Street, New Town (Map 1B: C4,

Cafe Hub Castlehill, Royal Mile, Old Town (Map 2A: B2, 32) 0131 473 2067, thehubedinburgh.com | £6.50 (set lunch)

Cafe Hub is the food wing at Edinburgh International Festival headquarters. Impressively housed in a former church at the top of the Royal Mile, it is in prime position for the capital’s tourist trade. On sunny days in festival season, the outdoor terrace is inevitably popular and a great spot to grab a coffee and people watch. Inside, there are plenty of sofas and and air of serenity, with light filtering through those huge church windows. Despite hints of sophistication, the wealth of space and boxes of toys make this an inviting spot for parents with young children in tow. The management are keen to encourage a local crowd with lunch deals and student offers. The menu covers all bases, ranging from soup and sandwiches to burgers, or a quinoa and butternut squash risotto. A chocolate brownie is unashamedly sweet but the scones definitely worth returning for. + Excellent scones served with a smile - Not many options for dessert

Café Marlayne 13 Antigua Street, New Town See French

Café Modern One Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art One, 75 Belford Road, West End See Arts Venues

✱ HITLIST

CAFES ✱ Café Renroc This quirky little neighbourhood café attracts locals and tourists with simple, delicious food served up in a relaxed atmosphere. ✱ Di Giorgio Smart, family-run deli café adding a modern twist to traditional Italian favourites.. ✱ Earthy Market Café An oasis of calm and wellbeing promoting seasonal, local, organic, and free-range eating in delightful surroundings. ✱ The Haven Colourful community café bringing quality homemade breakfasts, lunches, coffee and cake to Newhaven. ✱ Leo’s Beanery Award-winning cakes, wholesome lunches, their own blend of coffee, and breakfasts worth getting out of bed for. ✱ Lovecrumbs Outlandishly creative cakes and tarts expertly baked and served in homely, bohemian surroundings. ✱ Milk Popping up all over the city’s arts venues, Milk’s original Morrison Street home maintains its focus on innovative, wholesome food. ✱ Peter’s Yard A mini-chain, both Peter’s Yard and Söderberg are now by-words for quality Swedish baking, pared-back spaces and excellent coffee. ✱ The Roamin’ Nose Lively cafe by day, by night this family friendly place becomes a bustling neighbourhood bistro with a brief but brilliant choice of dishes. ✱ The Water of Leith Café Bistro This bright and bubbly riverside café punches above its weight with an ambitious choice of daily specials. Café Modern Two Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art Two, 73 Belford Road, West End See Arts Venues

Café Nom de Plume 60 Broughton Street, New Town (Map 1B: C4, 18) 0131 478 1372 | No Kids (under 5) | £8 (lunch)

A burst of colour welcomes visitors to this cheerful café, not only from the vivid yellow walls but also from the rich, hearty food served up to as diverse a crowd of diners as you’ll find anywhere in Edinburgh. Deceptively larger than The List Eating & Drinking Guide 49

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its discrete doorway suggests, stepping inside leaves the ordinary city far behind. Food is a world tour of tastes. There’s a French onion soup as dark as burnt toffee; a spicy of goulash laden with hunks of beef and chorizo; Malaysian curry stuffed with chickpeas, okra and beans; and a creamy dollop of smoked mackerel pâté. The specials come and go while standards such as fish pie, mince and tatties, lasagne and chilli stick around all year. Vegan and vegetarian options abound and there’s a well-stocked bar with a full house of beers, wines and spirits. + A menu that travels the world - No place for children under five

For the latest food & drink news Go to list.co.uk/food scones aplenty and a long list of organic, fair-trade teas and unusual soft drinks and smoothies. A brand-new coffee roaster is waiting at the back of the café to start producing delicious aromas and tastes. + Combines individuality with good customer care - Some décor is looking a bit tired

Café Portrait Scottish National Portrait Gallery, 1 Queen Street, New Town See Arts Venues

✱ Café Renroc

Coffee Angel

91 Montgomery Street, New Town (Map 5B: A5, 30) 0131 629 3727, caferenroc. co.uk | £8.50 (lunch) / £9.95 (set dinner)

Café Renroc is all about the welcome. Like popping round to an old friend’s for lunch, this quirky little neighbourhood café attracts locals and tourists with simple, delicious food served up in a relaxed atmosphere. A handful of tables hug the bar on the ground floor, spilling onto the pavement in the summer months, while downstairs reveals the building’s bakery roots with low vaulted ceilings and an impressive restored bread oven. The kitchen deals out generous lunchtime portions of soup, sandwiches, salads and deli boards. Breakfast ranges from porridge and fruit muesli to a full fry-up. An ever-changing Friday night bistro menu tempts with choices such as pumpkin and sage ravioli or devilled whitebait. There’s a brief but useful wine list and a choice of craft beers, plus a selection of teas and coffees. Kids portions are available and even dogs are welcome. + The feeling that it’s all been done just for you - A tight squeeze on a busy night

Café Tartine 72 Commercial Quay, Leith See French

TIPLIST FOR TAKING THE DOG • The Blue Bear Canonmills café, serving up great brunch and more, gives a warm welcome to doggy clientele. 49 • The Bon Vivant Sister venues in New Town and Stockbridge, where doggies get their water in 22 a cut-glass bowl. • The Espy So dog-friendly that canines can almost outnumber the humans at this Portobello 26 beachside bar/restaurant. • The Lioness of Leith Settle in with your furry friend at this Leith favourite for a delicious brunch or a quick pint. 29 • The Ox There’s dog bowls and biscuits for your pup at this destination pub, one of the best for food in the capital. 31 • Pickles Tucked downstairs on Broughton Street, this cosy, affordable wine and cheese bar is properly dog-friendly. 31

• 24–27 Brandon Terrace, Canonmills (Map 1B: A2, 8) 0131 622 6235 • 99 Nicolson Street, Southside (Map 2A: D5, 72) 0131 622 6235, coffee-angel.co.uk | £6.50 (lunch)

Cuckoo’s Bakery (page 52): with a new branch in 2015 in Bruntsfield

Café at the Palace Palace of Holyroodhouse, Old Town See Arts Venues

The Caffeine Drip 10 Melville Place, West End (Map 4: B1, 2) 0131 538 9579, thecaffeinedrip.com | £6.50 (set lunch)

Bringing a splash of South African colour to the very Edinburgh West End, the Caffeine Drip is as far away from bog standard cafés and dreary sandwich shops as you can get. All the food, including soups and cakes, is made from scratch using fresh ingredients in a kitchen many restaurants would envy. It shows too, with huge doorstep club sandwiches filled with spicy pulled pork and sour pickles while the boerewors rolls feature traditional South African beef and pork sausage made to an authentic recipe by a local butcher. The coffee’s up to scratch too, impeccably sourced from Peru, Honduras and Ethiopia with Fairtrade, Rainforest Alliance and organic certification. The vegan and gluten-free options don’t feel like an afterthought, and the breakfast menu is well worth checking out if you’re looking for a venue for that pre-9am meeting. + Fresh food made from scratch - Upstairs area lacks atmosphere

and Claire Wilson prepare practically everything on offer themselves, from the soups, sandwiches and warm savouries, to the ice-creams, sorbets and cakes. And the care they put into their food shows. Hearty soups, such as potato and leek, are nourishing and tasty with nice pieces of both veg filling the bowl. Homemade chilli con carne, or one of many salads, top fluffy baked potatoes, while made-toorder sandwiches provide a lighter option. But it is probably the range of homemade cakes, ice-creams and sorbets that lure most inside. Lemon meringue, harnessing Claire’s dad’s lemons from the south of France, is truly tempting. Or wrestle with the rainbow of options in the ice-cream counter, with mango, strawberry, pistachio, chocolate and more to enjoy. + Choosing between home bakes and icecreams - Only open weekdays

18 Nicolson Street, Southside See Arts Venues

Checkpoint 3 Bristo Place, Old Town See Bistros & Brasseries

Connect Café

The Chocolate Tree 123 Bruntsfield Place, Southside See Cafés: Wee Places

8 St Mary’s Street, Old Town See Round the World

City Art Centre Café Café Voltaire 36–38 Blair Street, Old Town See Bars & Pubs

City Art Centre, 2 Market Street, Old Town See Arts Venues

Cairngorm Coffee

Cobbs Marchmont

• 41a Frederick Street, New Town • 1 Melville Place, West End See Cafés: Wee Places

2–6 Spottiswoode Road, Southside (Map 3C: A2, 33) 0131 446 0188, cobbsbakery. co.uk | £7.50 (lunch)

Castello Coffee Co 7 Castle Street, New Town See Cafés: Wee Places

La Cerise 199 Great Junction Street, Leith (Map 5A: B3, off) 0131 555 6065, lacerise.biz | Closed Sat/Sun | £8 (lunch)

This lovely corner spot on busy Great Junction Street beckons patrons inside to a cheery daytime eatery festooned in cherry and green. La Cerise is a family affair, where husband-and-wife team Martin

Colonnades Signet Library, Parliament Square, High Street, Old Town See Arts Venues

Circus Café 1505 @ Surgeonshall

Don’t mistake the monochrome branding and uncluttered interior of Coffee Angel for off-the-peg corporate design. This independent chain of two keeps it simple but focuses on consistently well-made coffee, plus cake and handmade wraps, salads and hot paninis to eat in or take away. The flagship branch at Canonmills occupies a sunny corner and its full glass frontage floods the space with light all year round. Popular with office workers and students, the baristas perform a brisk morning and lunchtime trade but, at the weekends, locals linger over toasties and bagels enjoying the comfort of the leather sofas in the window, or seasonal outdoor seating. With a second branch in the city’s Southside, you can pick up their signature strong but balanced coffee and snacks whether on your way to the Royal Botanic Gardens or Arthur’s Seat. + Calm and quiet space for coffee and contemplation - Sparse interior could use a few personal touches

An airy L-shaped room with a charming array of higgledy-piggledy tables and chairs, Cobbs is an off-shoot of an Inverness family firm that boasts hotel and bakery outlets. Tucked off the main Marchmont Road drag in student central, brunch is served until 3pm and runs from proper porridge to a full-on bacon, sausage and haggis feast. Eggs benedict are nicely done, with lightly cooked spinach and a tangy hollandaise. Soups, sandwiches and more substantial dishes are served until 5.30pm, with decent options for vegetarian and vegan diners. There are cakes and

153–155 Comely Bank Road, Stockbridge (Map 1A: A2, off) 0131 315 2003 | Closed Sun | £6.50 (lunch)

A reputation for home-baking and a wholesome community ethos bring in a steady flow of returning locals to this corner café and gift shop. Wooden tables and warm red walls make for a relaxed homely interior and a seat beside the expansive windows is a perfect opportunity for people watching in this sedate quarter of town, just away from the busy Stockbridge thoroughfare. A simple menu of sandwiches and soup uses bread from Au Gourmand and locally sourced chutneys and jams. Try the Mull Cheddar toastie with leeks, onion and garlic. Pudding provides a dilemma for the sweet-toothed with the likes of a densely rich beetroot and chocolate cake or an airy Victoria sponge. Though it may not be culinary genius, the combination of wellprepared, thoughtfully sourced ingredients and genuinely friendly staff make this a neighbourhood favourite. + Great value lunch served by friendly staff - Child friendly but no high chair

Contini Ristorante 103 George Street, New Town See Italian

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PUT THESE ON YOUR HIT LIST Enjoy some of the best cafés in Edinburgh. Our cafés offer delicious food – from imaginative salads and mouth-watering dishes to fresh-from-our-ovens baking. All made from scratch daily and served in some of the city’s most beautiful and inspiring environments.

Café Modern One Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art 75 Belford Road

Café Modern Two Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art 73 Belford Road

Café Portrait Scottish National Portrait Gallery 1 Queen Street

Check website for café opening times heritageportfolio.co.uk/cafes

Stables Tearoom Hopetoun House South Queensferry (Open seasonally) / cafesbyheritageportfolio

Café 1505 18 Nicholson Street

/cafesbyhpl

Where everyday meets extraordinary Experience the glamour and grandeur of Colonnades at the Signet Library – stunning historical setting, an exquisite range of fine teas and coffees, delicious lunch and what is known as the Finest A fternoon Tea in town. “I have had many afternoon teas in Scotland and beyond but today at Colonnades really was THE BEST EVER. The decor was GORGEOUS, the atmosphere relaxed. Our server was EXTREMELY friendly and helpful being ever attentive without being obtrusive. And – finally – the food – absolutely sumptuous.” Patsy B via TripAdvisor

Join the conversation #MyColonnades 1 Parliament Square, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh EH1 1RF Reservations: 0131 226 1064 colonnadesedinburgh.com

Open Sunday to Friday 11am – 7pm

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NEW Coro The Chocolate Café • 5 Howard Street, Inverleith (Map 1B: A1, 2) 0131 629 3050 • 13 Frederick Street, New Town (Map 1A: C5, 64) corochocolate.co.uk | £9 (lunch)

You could stop off at Coro for a soup and sandwich lunch – both are tasty enough and plenty of people do – but you’d be missing the point. This is the place for a chocolate fix. Forget the exclusive chocolatiers offering trays of finely crafted confectionary, this sweet spot reminds people that chocolate should be fun. Each morning they melt their dark, milk and white Belgian chocolate and spend the rest of the day encouraging customers to swirl it, pour it and dip things into it. Waffles, crêpes and chocolate fondues are all big sellers, along with hot shots of liquid chocolate served up with chilli, paprika or ginger. There’s also a long list of milk shakes, cakes and sundaes and, if you’ve got room, you can design your own handmade chocolate bar. They host children’s parties too, but this place is really kids’ stuff for grown-ups – and with a second branch planned for Frederick Street this summer, there’s no excuse not to get your chocolate on. + Release your inner Charlie Bucket - Beware your inner Augustus Gloop

Cucina LC 68 Haymarket Terrace, West End (Map 4: A3, 61) 0131 467 2671 | Closed Sat/Sun | £10 (lunch)

Cucina’s ownership may have changed but the same staff continue to satisfy appetites and sugar cravings from early morning until late afternoon. The lunchtime queues are evidence of the popularity of this establishment in an area where competition is intense. A

cheery and efficient team keeps things flowing, serving up perennial favourites from a lengthy menu. Salads and sandwiches can be tailored to individual tastes, there’s a quiche of the day – sausage and bacon is one regular offering – made on the premises, or flavourpacked soups such as Thai chicken with coconut. Tables are usually snapped up by those with a little more time on their hands, and the window alcove is a comfy space with settees, newspapers and a shelf crammed with books which, together with cakes and traybakes made on the premises, accompanied by good coffee, offer an excuse to linger. + Something to suit all tastes - Narrowing down the options

Cuckoo’s Bakery • NEW 116 Bruntsfield Place, Southside (Map 3A: B3, 31) • 150 Dundas Street, New Town (Map 1A: D1, 32) 0131 556 6224, cuckoosbakery. co.uk | Closed Mon | £8.70 (lunch)

At the foot of Dundas Street, this dainty little tea shop is a popular draw for the cake eaters of Edinburgh. Stepping into the perfectly pastel world of scrumptious treats, the cuckoo announces the hour and diddy little pots arrive conveying an impressive selection of teas sourced from local suppliers. The brunch features eggy French toast, crisp Ayrshire bacon and maple syrup, while lunch sees doorstep sandwiches, soups and melts all using equally high-quality ingredients. Cupcakes are clearly the star of the show. Regulars like Red Velvet and Vanilla Vanilla make way for guest stars such as the prize-winning raspberry and white chocolate. Across town, the cult of the cupcake endures in their Bruntsfield sister shop which opened its retro-cool

doors in 2015. Focusing more on the cake side of the market, they are quickly enlisting the Southside’s yummy mummy population in the celebration of all things sweet. + Perfect for a super-cute afternoon tea - Focused towards the sweet of tooth

NEW Cult Espresso 104 Buccleuch Street, Southside (Map 3C: D2, 13) cult-espresso.com | £5.50 (lunch)

Hiding behind a deceptively small frontage at the bottom of Buccleuch Street, this hip, split-level venue features bierhalle-style tables and seating: it’s a far cry from Cult’s original incarnation as a kiosk in Dalmeny train station. Single origin coffee from suppliers including Bonanza, Roundhill and Five Elephant, is the order of the day here, expertly converted from bean to cup by Bert and Ernie, their two Mahlkönig K30 grinders. There are 15-plus teas, a number of shakes and smoothies, and a decent choice of tasty soups, sandwiches, salads and quiches too. It’s also one of only a handful of serious coffee bars to serve up that other early morning essential, the bacon roll.

with earthy truffled mushrooms and a floral avocado pesto, while a main of ribbons of pasta with a pile of meatballs in a tangy tomato sauce delivers a punch of Sicilian flavours. The portions are generous and the hospitality is as warm and authentically Italian as the food. There are also burgers, ciabatta and salads, a tempting selection of homemade cakes which change daily and a full breakfast menu along with plenty of children’s options. Choose from the wine list or bring your own – on weekends the kitchen stays open till late. + Hot pasta smothered in silky avocado pesto - Last orders come early during the week

Dovecot Café by Leo’s Dovecot Studios, 10 Infirmary Street, Old Town See Arts Venues

The Drill Hall Café 34 Dalmeny Street, Leith See Arts Venues

Earthy Canonmills 1–6 Canonmills Bridge, Canonmills See Bistros & Brasseries

✱ Di Giorgio 1 Brandon Terrace, Canonmills (Map 1B: A1, 6) 0131 624 4666, digiorgios.co.uk | £11 (lunch)

There’s a touch of Manhattan drama about this smart Italian deli café (formerly known as the Circle). Picture windows frame a long, narrow dining room with bare brick and stone walls rising to an elaborately corniced high ceiling. The food lives up to the setting, mixing traditional homemade Italian favourites with a touch of culinary theatre. A starter of crostini comes topped

✱ Earthy Market Café 33–41 Ratcliffe Terrace, Southside (Map 3C: D5, 29) 0131 667 2967, earthy.uk.com | £12 (lunch)

The phrase ‘farm to fork’ is taken literally at Earthy Market Café. Owned and operated by the director of Phantassie farm in East Linton, most produce is farm-fresh and organic. What can’t be plucked from the ground is locally and ethically sourced. The café feels like a farmhouse with high ceilings, exposed beams, and chunky wooden tables; it’s

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sausages sent from Germany, alongside hunks of homemade bread. While soups and sandwiches are prepared in-house, bread and cakes are sent daily from their sister café in Gullane, all made to the exacting standards of konditormeister, Falko. + Memorable cake with cherry and almond tea - Seating at the rear of café is a little less inviting

Festival Theatre Café Festival Theatre, 13–29 Nicolson Street, Old Town See Arts Venues

The Forest Café 141 Lauriston Place, Tollcross (Map 3A: C1, 1) 0131 229 4922, blog.theforest.org. uk | £6 (lunch) / £6 (dinner)

La Cerise (page 50): Leith café where practically everything, from soups to ice-cream and cakes, is homemade

bright, airy and welcoming. There’s a generous garden with outdoor seating, a conservatory, and a market upstairs selling a wide variety of wholesome groceries. Soups, sandwiches, and sharing boards showcase the produce with at least five seasonal salads on offer daily. Roasted sweet potato and red quinoa fritters make a surprisingly substantial lunch while the Borders beef burger balances out the mainly vegetarian and vegan menu. With a sister restaurant in Canonmills and another market in Portobello, Earthy is making Edinburgh a tastier, healthier place. + Dietary requirements and preferences catered for deliciously well - Feeling virtuous after salad may lead to overindulgence on home-baked cakes

cooked breakfasts for early birds, plus a changing daily selection of homemade cakes such as gluten-free brownies and lemon sponge. A vision for local produce extends to foraging courses and a commitment to partnering with Scottish food producers. Meat is sourced locally including beef from the Borders, where the Larder run the eatery at Whitmuir Farm, in addition to their popular bistro in Edinburgh’s West End. + A passion for Scottish produce - Cakes lack creativity of savoury options

Falko (Konditormeister) Embo 29 Haddington Place, Leith Walk, East End See Cafés: Wee Places

Eteaket Edinburgh Larder Café 15 Blackfriars Street, Old Town (Map 2B: A3, 7) 0131 556 6922, edinburghlarder. co.uk | £7 (set lunch)

A handy escape from the tourist bustle of the Royal Mile, the Edinburgh Larder is a breath of fresh air with its sunny yellow chairs and bright windows. While soups and sandwiches may at first glance seem predictable café fare, they prove more impressive on the plate. An authentic commitment to Scottish seasonal produce is clear and, even in the less plentiful seasons, a winter salad of beetroot, kohlrabi and lentils is fresh and well conceived alongside a Connage crowdie cheese sandwich. There’s porridge or full

event, sandwiches and simple smoked salmon or chicken salads are served in generous portions, too. The cakes are homemade with multiple gluten and dairy-free options and some inventive combinations; from pear, parsnip, pecan and ginger to courgette, mint and lime. Afternoon tea can also be enlivened with a range of tea-themed cocktails, including an iced chai White Russian . + A treasure trove of teas to explore - Décor could do with some fresh touches

The Forest café is a non-profit, volunteerrun art and event space which includes a vegetarian/vegan café. Anyone is welcome to display work, perform, or hold an event here – in return, everything is free to attend. The small menu boasts vegan chilli, wraps, salads, and soup. Hungry patrons won’t be disappointed by the falafel or burrito plates loaded with three types of salad and fresh hummus. There’s also a selection of tasty cakes from Garvald bakery, a charity for adults with additional needs. The space is warm and comfortable but would benefit from a lick of paint and a good tidy – it feels more like a student common room than a café, though the lunchtime regulars don’t seem to mind. And while its appearance may not be to everyone’s taste, certainly the inclusive ethos, welcoming spirit, and well-priced meals will win anyone over. + Tasty veggie/vegan food and always something interesting going on - You’ll love it or hate it

41 Frederick Street, New Town (Map 1A: C4, 71) 0131 226 2982, eteaket.co.uk | £9 (lunch)

Almost a decade since Eteaket founder Erica Moore set out in search of a superior cuppa, the Eteaket tea brand has found legs of its own and supplies stylishly packaged leaves as far afield as Japan. Meanwhile the basement tea shop continues much the same as ever, humbly serving a vast variety of weird and wonderful brews, made to exacting specifications. From the Chocolate Abyss with coconut flakes to chilli rooibos, small pots with pleasing aromas come with a timer to achieve optimum taste. Though tea is predictably the main

185 Bruntsfield Place, Southside (Map 3A: A4, 39) 0131 656 0763, falko.co.uk | Closed Mon/Tue | £9 (lunch)

A steady trickle of customers to the bakery counter shows a dedicated following for Falko’s traditional German rye breads, sourdoughs and freshly baked pretzels. While this authentically continental coffeehouse and bakery may have been in town long enough to have lost its novelty factor, the counter of flamboyant cakes, from fruitladen apfelkuchen to rich chocolatey sachertorte, has certainly maintained its appeal. A nostalgic interior with dark wood panelling, vintage kitchen paraphernalia and candles burning at the door make for a comforting invitation to stop for a pot of Viennese coffee and a generous slice of something sweet. Lunches are of a similarly authentic persuasion. A wurst salat is packed with gherkins and cheese and made with

Fortitude Coffee 3C York Place, New Town See Cafés: Wee Places

Glass & Thompson 2 Dundas Street, New Town (Map 1A: D3, 38) 0131 557 0909 | £5.45 (set lunch)

Positioned next to a Dundas Street art gallery, Glass & Thompson is a favourite with the New Town set. The menu is somehow elevated beyond standard café offerings: scrambled eggs with smoked salmon and dill or porridge with maple syrup are just a couple of the breakfast options, while the lunchtime menu includes savoury tarts, platters of pâté, salami or Greek salad, as well as sizeable soup-and-sandwich lunch deals. It’s licensed too, with a concise choice of wine and beer, and quite pleasingly the only spirit available is a good old G&T. The home-baking, in particular, is impressive and a doorstep-sized slice of

® ® 20th Anniversary Year 45times since 1996. 1996. times in in the the last last 67 years years and and 11 12 times times in in 19 20 years years since IfIfwe have not yet had the pleasure of your company we have not yet had the pleasure of your company

19 Elm Row, Edinburgh, EH7 4AA 0131 556 6066 - sales@valvonacrolla.co.uk Shop online at www.valvonacrolla.co.uk for mainland UK free delivery The List Eating & Drinking Guide 53

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chocolate-chip banana bread made with yoghurt is worth returning for alone, as is the coffee. + Food choices are a cut above the rest - More expensive than the competition

+ That toastie - Those calories

NEW Jeelie Piece 12 Leven Street, Tollcross (Map 3A: C1, 15) 0131 261 8067, jeeliepiece.scot | Closed Mon/Tues | £7.50 (set lunch) / £7 (dinner)

The Grassmarket Café

Jeelie Piece is new to the Tollcross café scene but it’s on an ambitious mission to stir things up. The mother-and-daughter team opened in January, aiming to create a local, ethical, and community-focused café. They’re at the farmers’ market every Saturday, picking up organic veggies, artisan cheeses, and local charcuterie. The food is packed with flavour. There are delicious vegan soups and daily specials like avocado hummus on toasted sourdough with rocket, lime, and black pepper. It’s almost good enough to tempt you away from a perfect grilled cheese filled with a blend of cheddar, mozzarella, and crowdie – they need to patent that bad boy. With local art on the walls, independent Scottish musicians on the stereo, and lots of plans for evening happenings and daytime workshops, expect big things from this wee piece. + Vegan chocolate cake good enough to fool the most fervent of dairy lovers - No alcohol licence, yet

The Grassmarket Centre, 86 Candlemaker Row, Old Town (Map 2A: B3, 44) 0131 225 3626, grassmarket.org | £7 (lunch)

Although it is very good at being one, the Grassmarket Café is so much more than just a café. A social enterprise for people who may otherwise be marginalised by society means that your typical full-on Scottish breakfast or neatly presented toastie and salad at lunchtime aren’t only feeding locals and tourists in the heart of the Old Town, but providing properly paid employment to help people into the job market. Made-to-order sandwiches and wraps with popular fillings, such as spicy tuna and red onion, or chicken and smoked bacon, come with field fresh greens, tomatoes and chopped peppers, although they don’t particularly need the additional accompaniment of tortilla chips and slightly viscous salsa. Cakes and tray bakes are bought in locally and work happily in partnership with satisfying coffee or Fairtrade tea. + Social enterprise products for sale, including re-crafted church pews - Official stop point for en-masse tour groups

La Locanda 61 Cockburn Street, Old Town See Italian

NEW Leo & Ted ✱ The Haven 9 Anchorfield, Leith (Map 5A: A2, off) 0131 467 7513, havencafe.co.uk | £7 (lunch)

This is an exceptionally busy, bustling wee café, given its position on the main road on the edge of Newhaven. Its eclectic interior (decorated with bric-abrac and antiques lovingly sourced by owner Natalie’s dad), friendly service and top-notch grub has clearly wooed the locals. The excellent value breakfasts have everything you’d want with freerange eggs, locally sourced meat and veggie alternatives. This alone makes it worth a visit at the weekend, when it’s been known for queues to extend out the door, but you also won’t want to leave without trying the famous pancakes. These are thick, fluffy and accompanied by bacon and maple syrup for breakfast or packed full of berries, Nutella or banana for a sweet treat later in the day. Everything is homemade in the openplan kitchen, including a good selection of sandwiches, a tasty soup of the day – perhaps tomato with pesto – and lovely cakes. + Thick, fluffy, fruity beautiful pancakes! - Food might go cold while you’re on the lengthy trek to the toilet

NEW Hendersons Holyrood 67 Holyrood Road, Old Town (Map 2B: C3, 30) 0131 557 1606, hendersonsofedinburgh.co.uk | £8.50 (lunch)

This contemporary expression of Hendersons brings decades of vegetarian cooking know-how into bright, new, upbeat surroundings at Holyrood. As an off-shoot of this Edinburgh culinary institution, there is a reputation to maintain here, as well as a fresh energy and a laid-back but progressive identity that clearly has a wide appeal. The eclectic mix of tweed upholstery, brightly coloured chairs and reclaimed wooden panels on the walls reflects a similarly varied customer base from professionals behind laptops and groups of students to young families. A recognisably accomplished salad bar makes for a creative pick-and-mix accompaniment to potato croquettes or a focaccia pizza and hits the spot in Hendersons time-

Earthy Market Café (page 52): making Edinburgh a tastier, healthier place

36 Leven Street, Tollcross (Map 3A: C2, 20) 07500 221009, leoandted.co.uk | £7 (lunch)

honoured fashion. The menu includes tried and tested meat-free recipes as well as options exclusive to this Holyrood branch, such as a beetroot and hummus wrap, and everything is, of course, organic and homemade with vegan and gluten-free options. + Accomplished vegetarian food in laidback surroundings - Fill up on salad as there’s not much cake to choose from

bar is a magnet for students and tourists in the Grassmarket. On a grey day, it’s the perfect antidote to the weather. With a defiantly bright and cheerful interior and a menu that oozes with vitamins, it’s almost guaranteed you’ll feel better by the time you leave. A revitalising salad of raw curly kale, baked butternut squash and uncooked quinoa is packed with added nuts and fruit and works harmoniously with a tangy sweet dressing to make it all pleasure and no pain. Even the more unusual medleys of freshly squeezed fruit and vegetables prove a treat. Try a revitalising warm juice of beetroot, fennel, apple and lemon. This little ray of sunshine could be easy to miss, amid the imposing architecture and plethora of eateries in this part of town, but it has deservedly earned itself a healthy reputation with locals. + Bright friendly staff - Cakes not quite as creative as rest of menu

Leo & Ted is the smallest of the Leo’s Beanery bunch, which now includes the larger café in the New Town and the Dovecot gallery café. But though it be but small, it is mighty; almost all the cakes (many gluten-free) are baked here at Ted’s bakehouse. It’s a cosy, hip little place with all the reclaimed accents hand-crafted by the owners – the slate counter came from an old pool table and the drinks menu from a salvaged window. On offer all day is a choice of breakfast bagels, courtesy of the Bearded Baker, fresh scones, and filled croissants. At lunch they up the ante with two more filled bagels and a choice of soup. Coffee is paramount with the exclusive ‘Leo’s blend’ roasted by Hands On Coffee in Cornwall in one hopper and a guest roast in the other. + Distinctive coffee roasts from across the UK - Most of the seats are stools at high tables which may not work for everyone

Italian On The Mound

23a Howe Street, New Town (Map 1A: C3, 34) 0131 556 8403, leosbeanery. co.uk | £9 (lunch)

Hendersons Shop & Deli 92 Hanover Street, New Town See Cafés: Wee Places

Henri of Edinburgh 48 Raeburn Place, Stockbridge (Map 1A: A1, 4) 0131 332 8963, henriofedinburgh. co.uk | £6.95 (set lunch) / £11 (dinner)

Popular with locals and young parents looking for a comfortable spot to have some grown-up chat, Henri’s is also a regular destination for Edinburgh’s restaurateurs keen to take advantage of the owner’s sourcing contacts and nose for quality. If you can make it past the tempting deli, the space just beyond is bright and open with duck egg blues and pale country woods. Breads from Le Petit Francais and Au Gourmand are put to good use with Henri’s own smoked mackerel pâté and caperberries. Farmhouse ham and brie de meaux are everything you would expect from a French baguette – crisp, yielding bread filled with gooey brie served with beautifully dressed greens and cornichons ticks all the boxes. The tartine sees Argyll smoked salmon and creamy avocado atop crunchy sourdough, once again demonstrating it’s all about the great ingredients at Henri’s. + Deli next to the kitchen makes for a delectable feast - Alfresco dining can be a bit of a squeeze

Hula Juice Bar and Gallery 103–105 West Bow, Old Town (Map 2A: B3, 37) 0131 220 1121, hulajuicebar. co.uk | £6.95 (set lunch)

When the sun’s shining, the Hula juice

15 Bank Street, Old Town See Cafés: Wee Places

Jacob Artisan Bakery • 62 Haymarket Terrace, West End (Map 4: A3, 62) 0131 347 8884 • 42 South Bridge, Old Town (Map 2A: D3, 84) 0131 337 1791, jacobsbakery. co.uk | £9 (lunch)

Having initially carved out a name for himself producing skilfully crafted pastries, tarts and gateaux – including Hungarian-style cookies inspired by his wife Erika, Jacob Philip now has two coffee houses bearing his name. And while the frangipane tarts and cinnamon buns are still a major draw, he hasn’t rested on his laurels, instead expanding the menu into a fulsome, dayround offering. Pies, stews and salads complement a range of hot and cold sandwiches made with their own bread, including a particularly time-intensive, long fermented sourdough that works wonders as part of a cured smoked ham and Emmental toastie.

✱ Leo’s Beanery

This café lies on a sunny corner of the New Town and boasts heaps of charm and a commitment to good food. Leo’s is a family affair; a husband-and-wife team churn out Taste of Scotland award-winning cakes and brownies. The basement location is surprisingly bright and filled with delightful personal touches like old family photos on the walls and reclaimed sewing tables for dining atop. The breakfast menu features free-range eggs and Bowers meat, as well as comforting specials of peanut butter, banana, and cinnamon on chunky wholemeal toast. Lunch is just what you want; fresh soups, quiche, salads, and giant doorstop sandwiches filled with delectables like Blue Murder cheese, bacon, and pear chutney. Gluten-free bread, rolls and bagels are always on offer, as are glutenless cakes, and those star brownies. + Gluten-free brownies leave you pondering the point of gluten

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- Finding room for cake after the giant

sandwiches

Liggy’s Cake Company 20 Deanhaugh Street,, Stockbridge, Stockbridge See Cafés: Wee Places

Loudon’s Café & Bakery Lochrin Square, 94b Fountainbridge, West End (Map 4: C3, 52) 0131 228 9774, loudons-cafe.co.uk | £11 (lunch)

Is there anything better than a leisurely brunch? Enjoy it in a spacious room flooded with natural light, complimentary papers, Artisan roast coffee, a laid-back vibe, and you’re probably eating at Loudon’s. The quintessential brunch dish of eggs benedict is served all day with six different toppings such as savoury chorizo and black pudding. Weekday breakfasts include Loudon’s own veggie sausages and homemade granola while the lunch menu is wellbalanced with burgers, salads, quiches and soups. Weekends are dedicated to the art of brunch with every table, sofa, and window seat packed with families and groups of friends. Every slice of bread, piece of cake and crumble of cookie is baked downstairs, including the glutenfree options; get there early enough and you may catch a glimpse of the bakers in action. + Varied and delicious baked goods made in-house - Weekend brunch is a little too busy

✱ Lovecrumbs 155 West Port, Old Town (Map 4: D2, 30) 0131 629 0626, lovecrumbs.co.uk | £5.50 (lunch)

A reputation for outlandishly creative and well-executed baking brings in a wide range of customers to this popular hangout near the Grassmarket. While sister café Twelve Triangles focuses on breads and doughnuts, Lovecrumbs remains dedicated to its original vision of an unadulterated menu of cakes and tarts, supplied daily by their kitchen in Leith. A chocolate and rosemary tart is balanced well to make it a flavour combination that works to the last mouthful and a hazel, plum and polenta cake is the perfect accompaniment to a bowl of coffee. A relaxed homely ethos pervades and the flask of hot water served with a cup of lemongrass and marigold tea means no further invitation is needed to sit here and while away a few hours with a book or a group of friends. Extra seating on a pile of cushions in the window or at an old piano all add to the rustic charm. + Exceptionally well-baked, inventive cakes - Some décor getting rough around the edges

Machina Espresso 2 Brougham Place, Tollcross See Cafés: Wee Places

Mademoiselle Macaron 22 Grindlay Street, Tollcross See Cafés: Wee Places

Maialino 34 William Street, West End See Cafés: Wee Places

Maison de Moggy 17 West Port, Old Town See Cafés: Wee Places

NEW Mallow Valley 278 Morrison Street, West End (Map 4: B2, 66) 0131 629 5859 | £6 (set lunch)

To paraphrase Woody Allen, cheesecake is a bit like sex: even when it’s bad, its pretty good. No such problem faces Mallow Valley, a bright, candy-striped café; one of several venues turning

Morrison Street into one of Edinburgh’s most eclectic dining drags. Here be cheesecake in a thousand different flavours, to tickle any wanton sweet desire you might have: lime and coconut, chocolate and almond, butterscotch and Irn-Bru, for the misguidedly patriotic. If you’ve just been chucked, update your Tinder profile here – hefty portions and a homemade feel to the buttery biscuit base make this the perfect destination for those needing succour. Milkshakes and hot chocolates groan with marshmallows and afternoon tea is wildly popular. Savoury items are limited to sandwiches, which are pleasant, if perfunctory, compared to the mallowy cheesecakes: definitely the main event. + It’s a suntrap on a nice day - You may feel a shade bilious on leaving

The Manna House 22–24 Easter Road See Cafés: Wee Places

Le Marché Français 9a West Maitland Street, West End See French

Mary’s Milk Bar 19 Grassmarket, Old Town See Cafés: Wee Places

Maxi’s 33 Raeburn Place, Stockbridge (Map 1A: A1, 7) 0131 343 3007 | £8 (lunch)

It’s hard not to notice the cracked tiles covering Maxi’s walls – an extraordinary feature left over from the fishmongers who were based here at the turn of the century. There are other interesting quirks too; an old chemistry classroom door, hand-crafted tables from reclaimed wood, stained glass windows. But it’s not just the décor that makes Maxi’s noteworthy – this is a laid-back family business, passionate about working with local suppliers to serve the best of Scottish produce. The breakfasts (served until 3pm!) feature Bowers sausages and black pudding, free-range Scottish eggs, and Ayrshire bacon. Cheese in the quiches and sandwiches comes from Mellis, coffee from Artisan Roast, and soda from Roots of Edinburgh. All the cakes are homemade with the courgette, lemon curd, and pistachio the stuff of legends, though the carrot cake will do in a pinch. + Thin-crusted quiche and accompanying punchy red slaw - Delicious Ayrshire bacon, served a bit too crispy

✱ Milk 232 Morrison Street, West End (Map 4: B2, 72) 0131 629 6022, cafemilk.co.uk | £8.50 (lunch)

cake with cream cheese icing. + Inventive and adventurous café food - Get there early for a seat

NEW Moon & Hare

Mimi’s Bakehouse

Some would have you believe vegan, veggie and gluten-free food is earnest, boring and bland: lunching at Moon and Hare proves they couldn’t be more wrong. The flavours fairly pop from salads, wraps, cakes and smoothies, while owner and chef Shannon Denson is a breath of fresh air, determined to make healthy eating pleasurable. A colourful, flavoursome salad, like the quinoa, cucumber, radish and pomegranate, is almost fluffy in its lightness but still has some crunch. Broccoli, almond and cranberry, has a mellow sweetness and tang. Particularly delicious is a Tuscan wrap of cannellini beans, spinach, sun-dried tomato, olives and pesto, which softly melds together without losing distinction of ingredients. Cakes are gluten-free but still open and light, while smoothies range from virtuous to just plain yummy (and happily don’t fall back on lots of banana). A delicious addition to the neighbourhood. + Healthiness rarely tastes this good - Not open in the evenings

• 63 The Shore, Leith (Map 5A: C2, 19) 0131 555 5908 • 250 Canongate, Old Town (Map 2B: B3, 26) 0131 556 6632 • NEW 277 St John’s Road, West End (Map 4: A3, off) 0131 334 7474, mimisbakehouse.com | £11 (lunch)

Cakes and tarts are the main event at this naughty-but-nice family-run café chain, which includes their Picnic Parlour in the Old Town and a brandnew branch in Corstorphine. It all started in the original Leith bakery though, with its views into the kitchen where you can watch a team of bakers whipping up platefuls of sugary creamy creations: diners at Mimi’s worship at a sponge altar. That’s not to say there isn’t a good choice of savouries on offer though. Homely standards such as macaroni cheese and stovies compete for attention alongside afternoon (or before noon if you prefer) teas piled high upon three-tiered cake trays. The portions are generous, but don’t worry if you can’t finish that last slice – the waiting staff will happily box it up for you to take away and enjoy later. Everything is made in-house from fresh, locally sourced ingredients including sausages, fruit and veg and cheese from Edinburgh. It’s a big and cheerful space but it gets busy, so book ahead. + Watching them make cake - You can forget that diet

Mint Café 3 Exchange Buildings, 3 Semple Street, West End (Map 4: C2, 49) | Closed Sat/ Sun | £7 (lunch)

Set slightly off the main drag of Fountainbridge, Mint Café is frequented by regulars (many of them office workers in the area) who flock back for their homemade offerings. The space is flooded with light, with a roomy whitetiled interior and white furniture. Hearty bowls of soups such as cock-a-leekie or Tuscan bean are served with artisan bread, and can also be enjoyed as a cup with a sandwich option. The ‘seriously good cheese toastie’ is exactly that – chopped leeks, red and white onions and garlic toasted between Henderson’s organic sourdough rye bread, with delicious Mull cheddar. Playing on the theme, they also serve Aero mint tiffin and an After Eight mint hot chocolate. Other homemade cakes include fruit loaf or date slice, but the standout dessert is a simple scone served with Galloway Lodge raspberry jam. + The toasties and scones - Closed at the weekends

167 Bruntsfield Place, Southside (Map 3A: A4, 37) 0131 228 9250, moonandhare.co.uk | £8 (lunch)

New Town Deli • 42 Broughton Street, New Town (Map 1B: C4, 22) 0800 073 1211 • 23 Henderson Row, New Town (Map 1A: D1, 31) 0800 073 1211, thenewtowndeli.com | £8 (lunch)

While most places with huge menus do lots-of-things-not-very-well, the New Town Deli is doing lots-of-things-verywell. The Henderson Row branch (a smaller sister operation is on Broughton Street) bustles with a thriving breakfast and lunchtime trade, and the lists pinned to the wall behind the counter detail everything from breakfast and brunch rolls, to eggs on toast or a full breakfast. There’s lively smoothies, a choice of wraps and baguettes, and club sandwiches are listed beside homemade burgers (beef, meatloaf, chicken, falafel). Chilli and fries is extreme comfort food, a hangover essential. Cakes and cookies rub shoulders with traybakes, while the deli counter is filled with bright fresh ingredients: chunky green guacamole, herby pesto, velvety hummus, zingy salsa, cheeses, meats, roasted vegetables. In short, there’s something for everyone. A reflection of their friendly and welcoming attitude, seating is centered around a large communal table in this dependable and cheerful neighbourhood local. + Staff who serve right up until the doors close - Can get very busy

The stylish and understated décor of Milk fits with their tagline of ‘fresh, seasonal, local, homemade food’. Their original site on Morrison Street has now been joined by numerous ventures in art spaces, including the Fruitmarket Gallery, the Collective Gallery, Edinburgh Sculpture Workshop and Jupiter Artland (see write-ups in Arts Venues). With breakfast, hot stuff, seasonal soups, burritos, sandwiches, salads and home-baking, they offer much more than your basic café. There’s great gluten-free options like tasty feta, kale, pea and broccoli fritters served with herby slaw, rosemary and cumin-roasted vegetables, date and black sesame hummus and dukkahspiced nuts. Or try the Indian burrito of black dhal with yoghurt, rice and dhal muth. Coffee is good too; enjoy it with a vegan choc truffle slice, courgette and poppyseed cake, a flapjack, a brownie, or a slab of rich chocolate and stout The List Eating & Drinking Guide 55

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NEW Noir 1 Palmerston Place, West End (Map 4: B2, 71) cafe-noir.co.uk | £6 (coffee and cake)

Bright and roomy, with a smart marble counter and a mix of wooden and chequerboard-tiled flooring, Noir is an elegant space. Their avowed aim is to make specialty coffee accessible, so while they’ll happily discuss the relative merits of one of their single origin offerings over the other (they’re fullypaid up proponents of the ‘third-wave’ coffee movement) ultimately the plan is to ensure Joe and Jill Public enjoys their daily cup. Coffee maestro Dean James will be a familiar face for anyone who has frequented Artisan Roast, Machina Espresso or Cult Espresso, having worked at all three, and that pedigree is reflected in the quality of the coffee served up. Excellent pastries, cakes and more from the nearby Patisserie Maxime, and a neat little deli selection that runs to meat and cheese platters, means you won’t want for something suitable to accompany your high-end caffeine fix. + Great coffee - Not being on your daily commute

No. 33 33 Deanhaugh Street, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B1, 12) 0800 073 1211, thenewtowndeli.com | £8.50 (lunch)

No. 33 has quickly established itself as a super wee Stockbridge café. Friendly staff who clearly know their local crowd, stretch early morning coffee past a busy lunchtime scene, towards a small but perfectly formed collection of afternoon cakes. A sprinkling of timber benches and high-level window seats, snuggle against a simply composed backdrop of white walls and exposed brickwork, with a splash of primary colour. Halloumi, hummus and roast peppers, or prosciutto, brie and sunblush tomato are packed into an appealing array of bagels, croissants and flatbreads, all matched to well-made, daily-changing soups. Homemade sticky date cake proves hard to resist, alongside gluten-free brownies, honey and walnut marlenka and the everpopular Portuguese custard tarts. In a part of town that’s spoilt for café choice, this is a venue doing more than enough to stand out from the crowd. + Chicken, bacon and guacamole focaccia - Can be tricky to get a seat

New Town (Map 2A: D1, 2) 0131 556 2414, roccofortehotels.com/thebalmoral-hotel | £35 (afternoon tea)

Whether it’s the elegantly proportioned domed room with palm trees and Venetian chandelier, or the harp music drifting from the balcony, time at the Palm Court seems to move at a pleasantly slow pace. A subtle attentiveness from staff and a steady flow of edible fineries all adds to a feeling of serene relaxed occasion. While morning coffee or a light lunch is possible, afternoon tea is a memorable treat. From an amuse bouche to tiered towers of savouries, cakes and scones and finally a trolley of homemade sweets and colourful macarons, the list feels pleasingly endless and indulgent. Pastries are baked with seasonal variation, such as a delicate pumpkin and meringue pie, and everything from the bread to sorbet to rose petal-flecked marshmallows is made in-house. Each layer of components is delivered separately with a fine-tuned friendly competence and generous supplies of tea and coffee. + A smoky cup of Scottish-grown Dalreoch white tea - This level of finesse inevitably comes at a price

The Pantry 1–2 North West Circus Place, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B2, 30) 0131 6290 206, thepantryedinburgh.co.uk | £15 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Some places just fit so naturally in their skin. The Pantry nestles into the nature of Stockbridge fully and easily. Stepping inside is like wandering into a chum’s front room. A chum who cooks well, that is, and is always happy to have you drop in unannounced. The Pantry has recently started doing evening meals at weekends but it remains primarily a daytime gathering point. Parents with kids, couples and friends meeting up to chew the fat and catch up on life, enjoy casual, yummy food like the Vegetarians Anonymous plate, with its selection of tempting roasted veg, guacamole, poached eggs and delicious nibbles.

Carnivores settle firmly into slowcooked pulled pork with bourbon BBQ sauce or brisket quesadilla with kidney beans, guacamole and cheese. Feeling munchy? Give in to crisp, warm, homemade waffles, with mixed berry compote and clotted cream piled high on top. And as there is never a wrong time for cake – indulge in masses of home-baking worth every calorie. + So gosh darn relaxing - Leaving

The Pastures 24 Marchmont Crescent, Southside (Map 3C: A2, 34) 0131 623 3606, thepasturesedinburgh.co.uk | Closed Sun | £5 (set lunch)

It’s easy to miss this tiny café, but what a shame that would be. The Pastures is a lovely little place with just a few tables and a friendly, local following. The classics which make up a full or veggie breakfast are ready and waiting for you to mix and match. There are baked potatoes, sandwiches, panini and daily specials of hearty fare like mince and tatties to keep you going at lunchtime. Everything is served up with a healthy dose of banter from Jane; the owner, chef, and live entertainment. All the baking takes place at the Wynd Café, their larger site in Dunfermline. A slice of their seeded beetroot loaf cake, a cup of Artisan roast coffee, and a side of Jane’s West Coast warmth is the perfect recipe to melt the frostiest of Edinburgh mornings. + Delicious home-baking and friendly locals - Limited seating

Pâtisserie Maxime 6 Queensferry Street, West End (Map 4: B1, 15) 0131 225 6066, patisseriemaxime.co.uk | £6.95 (set lunch)

Cyril Barthelme first came to Edinburgh as a student. He liked the city so much that he decided to stay. And now, more than six years later, his patisserie is keeping locals and tourists happy with classic lunchtime food, satisfying the cravings of those drawn in by a stunning display of cakes that provides

Patisserie Madeleine 27b Raeburn Place, Stockbridge See Cafés: Wee Places

Pekoe Tea 20 Leven Street, Tollcross 55 Raeburn Place, Stockbridge See Cafés: Wee Places

Pep & Fodder 11 Waterloo Place, New Town (Map 1B: C6, 48) 0131 556 5119, pepandfodder. com | £5 (set lunch)

With striking lime green tiles and wooden crates stacked with focaccia on the walls, Pep & Fodder is an immediate breath of fresh air and well worth remembering for a coffee-stop in this part of town. A row of high benches lend themselves well to a laptop and a cup of tea, while a couple of wooden tables with window seats make an inviting spot for weekend brunch. Some genuine food know-how from the Bon Vivant group of Edinburgh eateries means that soups, rolls and cakes are a notch above the average sandwich bar and a row of pre-prepared baguettes are polished off speedily by local office workers in the lunchtime rush. Fillings are the usual suspects plus some creative touches, and side salads are changed daily. A mix of butternut squash, spinach, beetroot and spicy almonds is pleasing alongside a toasted chicken pesto roll. Leave room though for a memorable peanut butter and coconut brownie. + A treat to get a great cup of coffee in this part of town - Get there before the lunchtime rush

✱ Peter’s Yard 27 Simpson Loan, Quartermile, Southside (Map 2A: B5, 67) 0131 228 5876, petersyard.com | £8 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

NEW Ostara

‘Fika’ is an essential part of Swedish life. Both a noun and verb, it means to take a break with coffee and something sweet. It’s a habit this Swedish café is trying to instil in the heart of Edinburgh, and judging by its popularity, it’s succeeding. The high ceilings, long sharing tables, and full-length windows make this a stylish venue for cake and conversation. All the breads, buns, and biscuits are kneaded to perfection in the bakery at sister venue Söderberg, a stone’s throw away. Breakfast consists of cinnamon buns, continental trays, and wholesome granola with Katie Rodgers yogurt. Lunches are hearty and healthy open sandwiches, salads, and delicious soups such as beetroot and horseradish. And if you’re just after a pause to your day, go Swedish and do the fika thang – strong coffee with a parsnip cake or Kanelbull (cinnamon bun). + Falling in love with the baking, taking the baking home - On a nice day it can be difficult to get a seat

52 Coburg Street, Leith (Map 5A: B2, 29) @ostaracafe |

Bringing some neighbourhood conviviality back to this relative backwater of a cobbled-street in Leith, this new café-bistro has an easy-going nature and a refreshingly engaged attitude to local suppliers, services and residents. Walkers wandering off the nearby Water of Leith walkway won’t do badly either, with a menu ranging across early morning Puddledub bacon rolls, scrambled eggs on toast, generous lunchtime salads, baked sweet potatoes, Bearded Baker bagels and Archipelago Bakery cakes alongside teas from Pekoe and coffee from nearby newcomers Williams & Johnson coffee. Proprietors David McVey and Carey Morrison share duties front-of-house and in the half-hidden kitchen; with a full licence, expect occasional evening eating or events to be popping-up before long. [Not open for a full review at time of going to press – check list.co.uk/food for updates.]

Palm Court The Balmoral Hotel, 1 Princes Street,

an insight into the talents at work in the kitchen. It’s a bright airy space, similar in style to the establishment in Alsace which inspired Cyril. The French jazz that provides the soundtrack, plus a menu that is unmistakably Gallic in the choices it offers, transport visitors across the Channel, rekindling holiday reminiscences of that croque monsieur in a beachside bar, tasty soups in a village café and, of course, macarons and gateaux such as verrine and tarte citron. + Food and sounds that trigger memories of France - Sometimes sells out of macarons

Piecebox The Pantry: a popular gathering point in Stockbridge for relaxed food

2 Polwarth Crescent (Map 4: C4, off)

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0131 629 6284, piecebox.co.uk | £12 (lunch)

Located in Polwarth, Piecebox is a cosy, bustling space with mismatched furniture and a shabby chic vibe. Catering to visitors staying in nearby B&Bs as well as a local crowd, the menu covers club sandwiches, soups, jacket potatoes, macaroni cheese, fajitas and burgers – but the focus here is very much on their all-day brunch. There are eggs in various guises, pancakes, French toast, breakfast rolls, porridge and full Scottish breakfasts. There’s also lots to choose from for vegetarians, such as a sweet potato and courgette fritter stack or Piecebox Light – toasted rye bread with poached eggs, chilli plum tomato, halloumi and sautéed greens. Freshly baked cakes and sweet treats include chunky slices of Victoria sponge or blueberry cake for that afternoon sugar hit. + Lots of brunch choices - Overcooked eggs

Polentoni 38 Easter Road, Leith (Map 5B: C5, 40) 0131 661 6182 | Closed Sun | £9 (lunch)

Starting life as a bakery in 2014, this busy little café has bowed to the demands of the lunchtime crowd and found its true calling serving traditional rustic Italian home-cooking to an appreciative mix of locals and office workers. Substantial breakfasts include roast pork belly with eggs and salsa verde or a stew of cannellini bean, red pepper and tomato. Lunch includes pasta with chicken liver, white wine and rosemary ragù, or gnocchi in a threecheese sauce. The cakes and pastries deserve a mention – all are cooked overnight on the premises – plus there’s a tempting selection of cured meats and cheeses at the small deli counter if you only want a sandwich. With an expanded seating area, and occasional forays into evening opening, this little place is growing fast. + A great alternative to soup and sandwiches - The scramble for a lunchtime table

Porto & Fi 47 Newhaven Main Street, Leith (Map 5A: A2, off) 0131 551 1900, portofi.com | £16 (lunch) / £18.50 (dinner)

Serving the communities of Newhaven and Trinity, this light and airy cafécum-bistro by the sea provides a welcome destination for meeting friends in an area otherwise limited for dining out. Whether you’re just after a good coffee and something delicious from the tempting display of cakes and traybakes, or looking for a more substantial meal, the flexible menu offers plenty of possibilities for light lunch or the full three courses. Tempting dishes include pan-fried salmon with puy lentils, brown shrimps, sun-blushed tomatoes and coriander, or duck breast with roasted beetroot, kale, sweet potato mash and red wine reduction. The success of their modern Scottish bistro menu has seen Porto & Fi extend its evening opening hours until 10pm at weekends, a move sure to be welcomed by its loyal followers. + A haven of all-day quality cooking in Newhaven - A loyal local following means booking ahead is advisable

Punjabi Junction 122–124 Leith Walk, Leith See Indian

✱ The Roamin’ Nose 14 Eyre Place, New Town (Map 1B: A2, 12) 0131 629 3135, theroaminnose.com | £15 (lunch) / £21 (dinner)

TIPLIST FOR COFFEE • Artisan Roast From three outposts around Edinburgh, Artisan Roast serve up some of the best coffee in town. 59 • Brew Lab Employing scientiﬁc methodology and precision equipment to meticulously craft their coffee. 59 • Cairngorm Coffee City-centre independent coffee shop with passionate staff and inventive toastie combinations. 59

Our Edinburgh Larder teams work closely with local suppliers and producers to bring you the best of the Scottish landscape on a plate. www.edinburghlarder.co.uk

Café 15 Blackfriars Street Edinburgh, EH1 1NB 0131 556 6922 Open 7 days | M-F: 8am–5pm, S&S: 9am–5pm

• Fortitude Coffee Welcoming space with clued-in owners, where coffee dominates but tea and food also ﬁnd a place. 60 • Machina Espresso Tollcross haven for serious coffee drinkers and gearheads who like their wares served with a smile. 61 • The Milkman At the foot of Cockburn Street, a tiny pitstop with excellent coffee and charming service. 62

This neighbourhood café and bistro tries to do it all and pretty much succeeds. Daytimes are busy with locals and office workers tucking into brunch or a lunch menu of pasta, warm salads, burgers and Italian bites including homemade pesto and tapenade, cured meats and cheeses. Come evening, the kitchen steps up a gear to produce a brief but brilliant choice of fish, meat, burger and vegetarian dishes, like risotto with beetroot, orange zest and gorgonzola; or prawns, mussels and clams in a sweet, boozy broth of garlic, herbs, onion, wine and Disaronno. It’s a bustling family-friendly place overseen by an engaging and attentive staff. Add in a smart but affordable list of good Italian wines alongside a wide choice of bottled beers, cocktails and liqueurs and you’ve got an irresistible neighbourhood eatery. Dunroamin? You will be once you’ve dined here. + Peerless neighbourhood dining - The brief dinner menu leaves little choice for vegetarians

Rocket Café 41 Morningside Road, Southside (Map 3B: A2, 3) 0131 447 0377, rocketcafe. co.uk | £6.25 (set lunch)

Rocket Café has a relaxed vibe from the moment you enter, with staff who are friendly and efficient no matter how busy it gets. Wooden tables and school chairs host a mix of families, regulars and the local office crowd. The menu is sizeable, keen to cater for vegans, vegetarians and with plenty of glutenfree options. Breakfast offers French toast, rancheros and specials like the benedict – streaky bacon, hollandaise, soft fried egg and spinach on ciabatta. For lunch, sandwiches, bagels, burritos, nachos and salads are all freshly prepared. The Wahaca club sandwich is a winner, crammed with chicken breast, chorizo, mayo, guacamole, mozzarella, tomato and fresh leaves, served with tortilla chips, sour cream and salsa. A range of sweet treats and baked goods are also available, with the gluten-free orange polenta cake particularly good. + Lots of great choice for breakfast and lunch - Need to get in quick to grab a table

Bistro

Whitmuir

1a Alva Street Edinburgh, EH2 4PH 0131 225 4599

Whitmuir Farm, Lamancha West Linton, EH46 7BB 01968 661 147

Open Tues-Sat | L: 12–2:30pm, D: 5:30–10pm

Open 7 days | 10am–5pm

the chocolate cafe Chocolate is about pleasure, and maybe a simple treat, but most of all, chocolate should be fun

ZDIìHV FUHSHV IRQGXH SDQFDNHV FDNHV 5 Howard Street Edinburgh, EH3 5JP 13 Frederick Street, Edinburgh, EH2 2EY 0131 629 3050 coro_tcl@outlook.com

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EDINBURGH

Ronde Bicycle Outfitters 66–68 Hamilton Place, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B1, 20) 0131 260 9888, rondebike.com | £5.90 (lunch)

The walls of Ronde Bicycle Outfitters are lined with the white tiles of the butcher shop it once was. Situated at the front of the store, its café offers respite for bike enthusiasts and mere mortals alike. Cheerfully kitted out with bare wooden tables and benches, and offering a pared-back menu of tasty homemade soups (one vegetarian, one meat – and what’s not to love about smoked sausage and pea?), pastries, inventive daily cakes (think spiced apple and pumpkin), and teas and coffees, it’s a relaxed affair with friendly, chatty staff. A large screen enables projections of major cycling events like the Tour de France and Giro d’Italia and the café also hosts bike-related exhibitions and readings, making it something of a place-to-be for those who know their fixies from their mountain bikes. And if cycling’s your thing, their bike club can be found refuelling there on Saturday afternoons. + Inventive cakes with a gluten-free option - Limited menu

NEW The Royal Exchange Coffee House The Real Mary King’s Close, 2 Warriston’s Close, High Street, Old Town (Map 2A: C2, 14) 0131 225 0672, realmarykingsclose.com | £9.50 (lunch)

Given its location, it’s hardly surprising that the Royal Exchange Coffee House sets its sights predominantly on the tourist market. Yet locals would do well to remember this pleasant spot off the Royal Mile for a decent cup of coffee, quick sandwich and a bun. Part of the Real Mary King’s Close complex, its elegant wood-panelled café is housed in what used to be Edinburgh Council’s licensing department. Not the most creative of menus, the choices are straightforward and traditionally Scottish. Haggis, neeps and tatties take pride of place alongside a Scotch mince pie or daily dish of the day such as stovies. Soups changes regularly, but expect the likes of Cullen skink or mushroom. From the panini list, there are regular favourites such as ham and cheese or a tuna melt, with haggis and cheese for the more adventurous palate. + Excellent gift shop shares same site - Fruitless fruit scones

St Giles’ Cathedral Café St Giles’ Cathedral, High Street, Old Town See Arts Venues

The Scottish Café and Restaurant National Gallery of Scotland, The Mound, New Town See Scottish

The Scottish Café National Gallery of Scotland, The Mound, City Centre See Arts Venues

NEW The Secret Herb Garden 32a Old Pentland Road, Southside (Map 3B: A4, off) 07525 069773, secretherbgarden.co.uk | £8 (lunch)

As the name suggests, there is a definite feeling of discovery about a visit to the Secret Herb Garden, from the pigs wallowing at the entrance, to shelves stacked high with jars of colourful dried herbs and petals. While tea and scones are pleasant in the wooden café and craft shop, the more adventurous option is to take them picnic-style in

the glasshouse. Enamel mugs of soup and homemade soda bread are delivered to garden tables or secluded nooks with well-worn sofas. Meanwhile the kids can play among the fruit trees and borage flowers. The lunch menu is limited with good reason, as everything really is made from scratch, mostly using produce from the garden. Even the beer is brewed locally, using homegrown herbs, and salads are brimming with edible flowers. Cakes are hard to choose between, with a varied array including sticky ginger loaf and courgette, mint and lime cake. + Sharing the good life over a cup of herbal tea and cake - More savoury options, please

NEW Serenity Café The Tun, 8 Jackson Entry, 111 Holyrood Road, Old Town (Map 2B: D3, 32) 0131 556 8765, serenitycafe.co.uk | £7 (lunch)

Set back from the bustle of the Royal Mile and its hordes of tourists sits Serenity Café, a relaxed and welcoming community venue staffed by volunteers. The café was set up by a small group of people in recovery in 2009, supported by the charity Comas and is the first of its kind in Scotland, run by people in recovery for people in recovery, as well as members of the public. Enjoy a hearty all-day breakfast, baked potatoes or an incredibly tasty, toasted triple-layer club sandwich with salad, while the blackboard announces a host of daily specials. The café is family friendly, with a selection of toys, and is a good place to come and relax and read one of their books or chill on a comfy sofa. The menu has members and nonmembers prices and offers great value for this normally premium-priced part of town, as well as the opportunity to support this valuable project. + Great-value prices and opportunity to support an excellent project - It’s a little out of the way

Smith & Gertrude 26 Hamilton Place, Stockbridge See Bars & Pubs

Social Bite • 131 Rose Street, New Town (Map 1A: B5, 55) 0131 226 7527 • Shandwick Place, West End (Map 4: B1, 23) | social-bite.co.uk | Closed Sat/ Sun | £6 (set lunch)

Social Bite bills itself as a ‘sandwich shop with a difference’. One in four of the staff are – or have been – homeless and 100 per cent of profits go to five charities, including Shelter Scotland. In their original Rose Street premises (there’s a second outpost in Shandwick Place), they offer baguettes, sandwiches and hot dishes, including an impressive haggis, neeps and tatties with whisky sauce. Choose soup of the day – maybe lentil and bacon or broccoli and stilton – posh noodle pots with vegetarian or spicy Mexican chicken options and salads. All of the food is homemade and freshly prepared, and there are vegan and gluten-free choices. There’s a steady flow of office workers during the week but they’re closed at weekends. Do your bit by popping in for lunch or coffee and cake. + Good food, charming staff - Very limited seating at Rose Street

Söderberg Peter’s Yard Stockbridge 3 Deanhaugh Street, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B2, 16) 0131 332 2901, soderberg. uk | £8 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

With all things Scandinavian on trend, Söderberg Peter’s Yard is giving the people of Edinburgh a taste of Swedish

La Barantine (page 48): a bite-size café offering a genuine taste of France

artisanal baking. The Stockbridge branch (additional outlets can be found at Quartermile and Queensferry Street) is a haven for local residents looking for quiet respite, a bite to eat and excellent coffee. Owner Peter Ljungquist oversees the production of an array of traditional handmade goods from their bakery every day, featuring their signature kardemummabulle (a sticky, cardamominfused bun); mazarin cake (moist with almonds); enormous sweet, savoury and spelt scones; and on a Friday, sourdough pizzas fresh from the oven. Vegetarians, vegans and meat-eaters alike are well catered for, and soups, open rye bread sandwiches and inventive salads change daily. As you’d expect, muted greys and subway tiles, bare wood furniture and floors, and classic light fittings make for an appropriately tasteful environment to enjoy these Scandi treats. + Don’t leave without sampling the cardamom bun - The small space means it’s often busy

Söderberg Pizza at the Bakery

of pizza toppings such as mozzarella, prosciutto and spinach, or fishy treats like Scottish smoked salmon, crèmefraîche, capers and dill. Scandi-cool décor, large windows, and a relaxed atmosphere makes this a welcome addition to the Quartermile dining scene. + A winning twist on pizza - The stylish, but unsegregated, bathroom space might put some off

Spoon 6a Nicolson Street, Old Town See Bistros & Brasseries

Story Café Scottish Storytelling Centre, 43 High Street, Old Town See Arts Venues

Summerhall Café 1 Summerhall, Southside See Arts Venues

TriBeCa 88 Bruntsfield Place, Southside See Steakhouses & Burgers

Söderberg Quartermile, 1 Lister Square, Old Town (Map 2A: B5, 65) 0131 228 1905, soderberg.uk | £8 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Union of Genius

Having brought Swedish baking to the Quartermile in a big way with Peter’s Yard and Söderberg bakery, Peter Ljungquist is now treating us to a lesserknown but equally delicious Swedish delicacy: sourdough pizza. There’s no bones about the focus here, the pizza oven is in the centre of the room and produces stone baked pizzas quickly, thanks to their thin crusts. There are options to suit all appetites at lunch, with a choice of two, four, or eight slices, plus open sandwiches and salads. From Thursday to Saturday, there’s an evening menu with a wider choice

Urban Angel

8 Forrest Road, Old Town See Cafés: Wee Places

121 Hanover Street, New Town (Map 1A: D4, 94) 0131 225 6215, urban-angel. co.uk | £13.50 (lunch)

Relatively unassuming from the outside, Urban Angel nevertheless plays host to a constant stream of lunching and brunching regulars, thanks to a reputation now over ten years in the making. From a deli-style front of house into two basement rooms, it is a rabbit warren of inviting spaces for laid-back daytime dining. Wooden tables and a scattering of candles burning on castiron fireplaces make for a warm rustic

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In association with

EDINBURGH

vibe with hints of contemporary style. The same classic and contemporary balance is reflected in the menu. A brunch of kedgeree partners creamy smoked haddock alongside a medley of nutty lentils, quinoa and rice. Daily specials might include a steak sandwich topped with a colourful confetti of roast peppers and served with a generous pile of freshly cut chips. Desserts come in the form of an equally tempting lineup of cakes, such as a slice of lemon, poppy seed and thyme. + Well-sourced produce, exceptionally cooked - Trying to save room for those cakes

Valvona & Crolla Caffè Bar 19 Elm Row, Leith Walk, New Town (Map 5B: A5, 33) 0131 556 6066, valvonacrolla. co.uk | £14 (lunch)

Valvona & Crolla has been bringing the finest Italian deli foods to Edinburgh’s kitchens since 1934 and the addition of this caffè bar 20 years ago extended that service to your plate. Portraits of the forefathers of this pillar of the capital’s epicurean establishment watch over a mostly older crowd and their families, who repeatedly return to this bright dining hall. After two decades, the décor may be a bit tired but the ingredients – from local farmers or direct from Italy – are as fresh as ever. Try a breakfast of freshly baked pastries or Italian sausage and frittata, or a leisurely lunch from a wide seasonal selection including stuffed deep-fried courgette flowers or mozzarella and tomato filled Sicilian rice balls. There’s a comprehensive wine list or you can choose a bottle from the shop for a modest corkage fee. Desserts are not to be missed and the coffee packs a punch too. Bravissimo. + Big Italian flavours from the freshest ingredients - Get distracted in the deli and you might not find the caffè

Valvona & Crolla Ristorante 11 Multrees Walk, New Town See Italian

✱ The Water of Leith Café Bistro 1 Howard Street, Canonmills (Map 1B: A1, 4) 0131 556 6887, thewaterofleithcafebistro.com | £10 (lunch) / £13 (set dinner)

This neighbourhood café punches above its weight with a menu that many restaurants would struggle to beat. Not content with mere soup and sandwiches (although both are available for those wanting a quick lunch) husband-and-wife team Mickaël and Ana Meslé deliver an ambitious choice of daily specials, including braised pork cheeks and a rabbit and pistachio terrine. The regular menu includes steak and chips, mussels and pork burgers with a three-course special available at weekends, plus there’s a separate choice for the young ones. Locally sourced high-welfare ingredients get a strong showing, and there’s a spread of freshly made quiches, cakes and desserts and a small but smart selection of beers, wines and spirits. The bubbly atmosphere inside this bright riverside café flows from a team who serve up delicious food with genuine pride and an extra helping of happiness. + Very special daily specials - If only it stayed open later

Wild Wood Café 146 Marchmont Road, Southside See Bistros & Brasseries

The Zulu Lounge 366 Morningside Road, Southside See Cafés: Wee Places

CAFES: THE WEE PLACES Here are the wee spots that are so easily missed, but are well worth discovering. Peppered across the city are the bitesized patisseries, the policebox coffee-stops and the cool gelaterias. Seating is often sparse, but it’s usually worth waiting for a table or grabbing and going. From perfect pistachio macarons to artfully churned homemade ice-cream and expertly baked crusty bread, a lot of work is going into creating big reputations for these little places. Reviewers: Jennifer Alford-Thornton, Louise Donoghue, Hannah Jefferson, Rachel Kavish, Carol Main, Chris Marks

Affogato 36 Queensferry Street, West End See Cafés

✱ Anteaques 17 Clerk Street, Southside (Map 3C: D1, 11) 0131 667 8466, anteaques.co.uk | Closed Mon–Thu | £6 (lunch)

Anteaques has that rare quality: once discovered, it’s never forgotten. Part antique shop, part tea room, you sit at tables clothed in white linen surrounded by gorgeous antiques and curios. There are 80 loose leaf teas on offer in this enchanting establishment, served in large glass teapots with proper china tea cups and saucers, and delicate silver spoons. Scones are baked across the road at the Wee Boulangerie and are served with clotted cream and jams from the south of France - try the divinely floral violet or rose petal varieties. You can indulge in truffles from the Chocolate Tree or French confectionary in the form of crystalised rose, violet, or lavender petals. With only four tables it is advisable to book in advance; you don’t want to be turned away from an experience this good. + Enjoying fine tea surrounded by beautiful things - Restricted opening hours and no toilet on site

✱ NEW Archipelago Bakery 39 Dundas Street, New Town (Map 1A: D3. 97) 0131 281 0341, archipelagobakery. co.uk | Closed Sun | £9 (lunch)

There is something so welcoming about Archipelago Bakery. Perhaps those Georgian New Town windows, flooding the shop with brightness, or the crisp white woodwork and furnishings make the difference. Just as likely, it’s the heartwarming smell of bread baking that makes you want to linger long after finishing soup, cakes or a latte. More an artisan bakery with a café than a café doing home baking, Archipelago’s delightful owner/ lead baker Caroline Walsh is driven to deliver high-quality breads. Pain de campagne, miller’s sourdough with malthouse and seeds, spelt with courgette, reflect in their texture, crusting, and flavour the unmistakable results of a slow 24-hour rising process, a million miles away from supermarket bakeries. A regular turnover of continental breakfasts, vegetarian lunches of frittata muffins, stuffed baguettes and roasted vegetable salads, and afternoons of coffee and many cakes keeps tables humming and the takeaway service buzzing. A lovely addition to the neighbourhood.

+ Wonderful bread, baking and many

gluten-free treats - When they run out, they run out, so

come early

✱ HITLIST

Artisan Roast • 57 Broughton Street, New Town (Map 1B: C4, 27) 07590 590667 • 138 Bruntsfield Place, Southside (Map 3A: A4, 34) • 100a Raeburn Place, Stockbridge (Map 1A: A1, 3) 07542 314280, artisanroast. co.uk | £7 (lunch)

As its name implies, Artisan Roast is seriously all about coffee. At their Bruntsfield branch, hessian sacks proudly hanging on the walls tell that beans come from Guatemala, Indonesia and Brazil, but the craft roasting is done in the heart of Edinburgh. Such is the reverence for connoisseur quality coffee that food seems sidelined by the prominence given to the mighty bean. Organic soup, made by bean roaster Piotr, is always vegetarian and served with soft sourdough bread that has just the right crispness to its crust. Lightly curry-spiced lentil and spinach is just one example from his repertoire – just watch out for the whole cardamoms. Meltingly flaky pain au raisin are huge, with coconut and blueberry or apple and almond cakes strong competitors for something sweeter to soak up the brew. Also at Broughton Street and Stockbridge. + Beans for sale so you can relive the coffee buzz at home - Cakes disappear very fast

The Baked Potato Shop 56 Cockburn Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D2, 13) 0131 225 7572 | £4.99 (set lunch) / £7 (dinner)

Just like stepping into Santa’s workshop, it’s as if the little potato helpers in this cosy Cockburn Street nook have been working day and night to cook the piles of baked tatties here. As a vegan joint, the classic beef chilli and tuna mayo fillings are a no-go, but normal or garlic butter potatoes can be loaded with cheesy baked beans, (soya) egg mayo or healthy quinoa and avocado salads. Don’t be fooled thinking you can pop in for a light bite: a small potato is essentially a large, a medium is a big ’un-and-a-half. And a large? Well, kudos to anyone who manages a large. You can replace spuds with bread rolls or salad, and finish it all off with homemade vegan cakes and traybakes. It’s a lunchtime fave for many, but with only one small corner table, sitting-in on busy days isn’t likely. + It runs like clockwork, so there should only be a short wait for your tattie - Potatoes aren’t always cooked right through

CAFES: WEE PLACES ✱ Anteaques Charming tea room and antique shop serving and selling 80 fine teas in delightful surroundings. ✱ Archipelago Bakery Artisan New Town bakery committed to all the joy that properly made bread can bring. ✱ Casa Angelina A small tearoom with a big character, serving delicious homemade breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea in a vintage setting. ✱ Fortitude Coffee Compact, welcoming space run by knowledgeable owners, where coffee dominates but tea and food also find a place. ✱ 181 Delicatessen Compact and quality, this wee deli/café focuses on sourcing great produce. ✱ Pekoe Tea A tea-lover’s dream, dedicated to the art of enjoying the humble leaf in all its glory. ✱ Union of Genius Community café with a great ethos and six soups on the menu every day. TARDIS as a quality fast food joint. Of course it’s weather-dependent – the box serves largely as a takeaway when it’s wet and windy – but on a good day it’s the perfect place to grab some great grub and watch the world go by. + Soulful Scottish street food served with skill - The experience is very weatherdependent

Breadshare Bakery La Barantine 202 Bruntsfield Place, Southside See Cafés

4 Jane Street, Leith, 0131 538 4518, breadshare.co.uk See Cafés

NEW Barnacles & Bones

Brew Lab West End

Cathedral Lane, New Town (Map 1B: C5, 39) 07736 281893 | Closed Mon/Tue | £7.50 (lunch) / £7 (dinner)

Queensferry Street Lane, West End See Cafés

Set among the trees on the pedestrianised area in front of St. Mary’s Cathedral, Barnacles & Bones serves up soulful Scottish street food from a converted police box. The process is simple: choose between crab in lemon mayo, sourced straight from the boat in Fife, or slow-cooked, hand-pulled short rib beef from Bower’s butcher in Stockbridge. Then, choose how you want it served: on tarragon-salted fries, in a Manna House roll-of-the-day, or with quinoa and rocket salad. With daily specials like crab mac ’n’ cheese and sweet things like chocolate brownies, there’s an impressive amount of food coming out of a seriously small space – think Doctor Who’s

NEW Cairngorm Coffee • 41a Frederick Street, New Town (Map 1A: C4, 70) 0131 629 1420 • 1 Melville Place, West End (Map 4: B1, 4) cairngormcoffee.com | £6.50 (lunch)

Cairngorm sits high within Edinburgh’s independent coffee scene, particularly with the opening of a second, larger branch in Melville Place in March 2016. In the original Frederick Street venue, the interior displays hints of après-ski and Highland bothy. Coffee sacks loop above the seating area, signposting the café’s credentials while creating a cosy nook to enjoy your book or chat with friends. Sustenance comes in the form of crunchy, cheesy sourdough melts. The List Eating & Drinking Guide 59

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EDINBURGH

TABLE Talk

The popular cheese and bacon toasties face stiff competition from unusual combinations such as stilton, bacon and pear with Edward & Irwyn chocolate which delivers a hearty lunch fit for a mountain climber. The guest filter is creamy and subtly fruity and lives up to the passionate recommendation made by the knowledgeable staff. With a team that clearly take great pride in their product, one cannot help but find their enthusiasm justifiably contagious. + A truly damn fine cup of coffee - You’ll need to walk up Arthur’s Seat to burn off the calories

✱ Casa Angelina 42 London Street, New Town (Map 1B: C4, 16) 0131 558 1002, casaangelina. co.uk | Closed Mon | £9 (lunch) / £19 (afternoon tea)

EDWARD MURRAY ON HOW ARCHITECTS AND DINERS CAN BE FRIENDS I came to Edinburgh to study architecture and, on graduating, thought that was the career I would follow. Although lucky enough to get a job in a fantastic little office, it became slowly apparent that architecture wasn’t for me – I lacked the patience necessary to work on something that might take years to complete. There’s an enormous crossover between the two subjects. Restaurants are, after all, buildings and the architecture is as important a part of the experience as the food or service. The nature of the space in which someone dines is intrinsic to their experience of the meal. The Gardener’s Cottage grew out of a belief that dining should be an inclusive, social activity, and should connect diners to one another, to chefs and producers, and to a time and place. One of the things I really enjoy about architecture and food is that, although both are fundamentally necessary things that can be considered from a functional point of view, they are also both deeply complex socially, politically and emotionally. They also relate directly to what it is to be human. As long as chefs and restaurateurs recognise and respect the importance of architecture and the necessity of provoking and inspiring it, and architects view the production, transformation and consumption of food in the same way, they should get along famously. ■ Edward Murray, with Dale Mailley, is the co-owner and chef at The Gardener’s Cottage, Edinburgh (see page 94). thegardenerscottage.co

If the cake counter and vintage armchairs don’t give it away, the mismatched crockery, strainers and doilies make it clear that Casa Angelina’s aim is to show you the proper way to take tea. The setting is traditional but the food has a modern twist. Salads come stuffed with superfood ingredients such as alfalfa and quinoa. Everything from the ketchup in the bacon sandwiches to the horseradish crème-fraîche in the hot-smoked salmon rolls is handmade on site. There are vegan and gluten free choices galore and ingredients are seasonal, local, free from additives and organic wherever possible. But the real showstopper here is the afternoon tea; a sumptuous spread of cakes, scones and sandwiches washed down with pots of loose-leaf tea. The back room can be booked for parties and for a tearoom, this place also makes a great cup of coffee. + A small place with a big character - Tucked in a basement, it’s easy to miss

Castello Coffee Co 7 Castle Street, New Town (Map 1A: B5, 53) 0131 225 9780 | £5.50 (lunch)

Tucked away at the pedestrian end of Castle Street, Castello is a popular café with tourists, shoppers and coffee purists alike. The interior is compact and bijou, with just enough room for a couple of tables, while the alfresco space possesses one of Edinburgh’s finest castle views. Owner Sandro’s vegetarian credentials are evident in the high proportion of meat-free soups, wraps and filled croissants. Pesto, basil and goat’s cheese focaccia is fresh and surprisingly light. Cakes and pastries are locally sourced, and the chocolate brownie is particularly moist and luscious. The vibe is easy going, but when it comes to the production of that cup of coffee, things are taken extremely seriously. + Independent and with a passion for keeping it local - No toilet

The Chocolate Tree 123 Bruntsfield Place, Southside (Map 3A: B3, 32) 0131 228 3144, choctree. co.uk | £6 (lunch)

Now well established as artisan chocolatiers, Alastair and Friederike Gower have not slacked on their ethical focus, still travelling to Madagascar and Peru to ensure their beans are sourced according to their ecological and ideological principles. The tiny shop-cum-café is as much a showcase for their wares as anything else and they are unapologetic that their prized chocolate bars take precedence over seating. It’s worth taking a gamble on a table being vacant, though, just for the hit of a thickly indulgent chocolate shot with churros. Vintage tea cups and colourful paper chocolate boxes add

Edinburgh too.

For new openings Go to list.co.uk/food

hints of indulgence without being fussy or formal. Bakes from sea salted caramel tarts to carrot cake are mostly gluten free and the counter is also stocked with a pleasing selection of macarons and homemade ice-creams and sorbets. + Churros partnered perfectly with an intense chocolate shot - Lack of table seating

Cuckoo’s Bakery 7116 Bruntsfield Place, Southside See Cafés

NEW Deadly Donuts 21 Argyle Place, Southside (Map 3C: B2, 37) 0131 221 0459, fb.com/deadlydonuts | Closed Mon

Best knowing that ‘deadly’ is considered a compliment in owner Freddie Spindler’s native Tayside: think of it as synonymous with wicked. It’s probably a truth that you can’t take doughnuts deadly seriously: they’re never going to be anything other than an indulgence, even among sweet treats. That said, made freshly and with care they’re a million miles from supermarket alternatives. Also, the flavour possibilities are endless: you can go classic with sugar, or sophisticated with honeycomb and burnt butter icing, or give the taste buds a joyride with maple cream and bacon (yup, real bacon). Spindler, a classically trained chef with experience in European kitchens of some renown, set up this small unit in Marchmont in 2015 with few frills: a coffee machine sends out brews from Ayrshire’s Roundsquare roasters, there are a handful of mixed tables and chairs, and the décor mixes reclaimed chic with bric-a-brac. Doughnuts, made each day in the back kitchen and not sold elsewhere, are the mainstay: there are also bagels (an obvious hole-some partner) and, starting in spring 2016, a chance to engage with Spindler’s cheffing past, with multi-plate ‘Deadly Nights’ on Saturday and Sunday evenings, at a fixed price with BYOB available. + Killing me sweetly - Do nut touch more than one at a single sitting

NEW Dough 172 Rose Street, New Town (Map 1A: B5, 51) 0131 225 1588, dough-pizza.co.uk | £6 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

With a constant stream of happy customers proudly bearing their steaming takeaway pizza boxes, Dough has quickly established itself as one of the city’s best pizza shops. Dropping by to pick up is a fun experience, as you watch your pizza dough being rolled out to a 14-inch disc, being scattered with toppings, then emerging triumphantly and perfectly crisp from the flaming wood-fired oven. It’s even better to sit at one of the four tables and watch it happening time after time, with variations on super-fresh and tasty toppings ranging from the usual suspects to more creative Tuscan fennel sausage with wild Italian broccoli or cured pig’s cheek and artichoke. The menu lists 23 combinations and there are also weekly-changing specials. And if Rose Street isn’t part of your usual journey home, they deliver across most of

+ Help yourself to fresh basil at the

counter - Near impossible to choose what to

have

Embo 29 Haddington Place, Leith Walk, East End (Map 5B: A5, 26) 0131 652 3880, embo-deli.com | Closed Sun | £8 (lunch)

This comfy wee place has been pulling them in for nearly two decades but still feels like it has something new and interesting to offer the lunchtime crowd with its take on fast, tasty fresh food. Mediterranean flavours with a twist of something more exotic are at the fore, with grilled veg, cured meats, halloumi, falafel and hummus all playing their part on the menu. Stick to a choice of wraps, rolls and nachos or build your own salad or platter from whatever looks good in the deli cabinet. There’s a delicious choice of baked goods from a small army of local suppliers – look out for the spinach and feta muffins, a great accompaniment to the soup of the day. The weekday lunchtime turnover is fast and it’s worth the wait for a seat. Weekends are a more leisurely affair so get here early to bag your place + Those savoury muffins - Stools and high tables discourage lingering over lunch

NEW Filament Coffee 38 Clerk Street, Southside (Map 3C: D1, 10) 0131 281 5140, filamentcoffee.com | £5.50 (lunch)

With its simple white and grey colour scheme, concrete flooring, some ironically naff furniture and too-coolfor-school staff, Clerk Street’s Filament (formerly a much-loved Old Town pop-up) certainly earns a full house in barista bingo. But any worries this hip hangout is all scene, no bean, are neatly sidestepped thanks to some excellent coffee (supplied by Has Bean, Square Mile and guest roasters including Edinburgh’s Williams & Johnson) and equally fine cakes, such as a gloriously moreish chocolate and peanut butter effort, which come courtesy of local home-baker Suki Bakes. Pastries are from North Berwick’s Doorstop Bakery, and there’s a handful of bagels from the Bearded Baker available too, topped with spreads, or as well-judged filled versions, while tea, fresh smoothies and juices complete the liquid lineup.

✱ Fortitude Coffee 3C York Place, New Town (Map 1B: B5, 62) 0131 557 3063, fortitudecoffee.com | £6 (lunch)

Edinburgh’s café scene has blossomed in recent years, and Fortitude Coffee is a prime example of the passion and expertise that ensures caffeine addicts are well catered for in the city. Matt Carroll and wife Helen have cleverly transformed a former shoe repair shop into a compact but welcoming space close to the bus station and tram terminus, with opening hours now extended to include weekends. One large and two smaller tables dominate the café while bar stools account for the remaining places. Wall-mounted boards offer tips on what to order, the techniques used to make the drink, its source and tasting notes. The shelves are packed with coffee and associated paraphernalia available to buy. Guest coffees change each week, while Fortitude also offers an array of teas and hot chocolate as well as soups from Union of Genius and well-sourced food including bagels, baguettes, panini, scones and cakes. + Coffee created with knowledge and passion - Seats are at a premium

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while a couple of chaise longues aspire to decadence, but perhaps the most pleasing feature here is the outlook towards Edinburgh Castle. + Quirky macaron flavours - The café’s very small so not much personal space

Maialino 34 William Street, West End (Map 4: B2, 78) 0131 477 7778, maialino.co.uk | Closed Sat/Sun | £7 (set lunch)

Mademoiselle Macaron: flamboyant macaron flavours, from whisky to Irn-Bru, at this bite-sized coffee shop

Goya23 30 North West Circus Place, Stockbridge See Spanish

Hendersons Shop & Deli 92 Hanover Street, New Town (Map 1A: D4, 86) 0131 225 6694, hendersonsofedinburgh.co.uk/deli.php | £8 (lunch)

Hendersons Shop and Deli, Edinburgh’s institution for veggie fare, offers a clean and bright interior after a recent refurbishment. French-grey walls, white tiling and marble tops showcase its colourful and vibrant fare, while old bookcases and racks display local artisan produce and freshly baked loaves. Available for both sit-in and take-away, the food here is healthy and fresh, including seasonal salads, soups, wraps, veggie burgers and a hot daily special. Flavours of aromatic aniseed stand out in the chickpea, fennel and black bean salad and there’s a hint of smokiness in a salad of butternut squash, wild rice and tofu. Vegan and gluten-free chocolate cake to accompany an almond milk cappuccino show Hendersons take dietary requirements seriously – in fact, there are multiple dairy-free milk options, aside from the usual soya: despite being over 50 years old, Hendersons approach is anything but dated. + Plenty of vegan and gluten-free options - Cakes are a bit dry

Italian On The Mound 15 Bank Street, Old Town (Map 2A: C2, 19) 0131 220 4400 | £7.50 (lunch)

Laughter echoes above the sound of sizzling cheese in this compact and welcoming family-run café. If you’ve just climbed the Mound, they’ll see you sustained with one of their many filled baguettes, ciabattas, focaccias or flatbreads. Roasted vegetables, pesto and mozzarella; pastrami, dill pickle and jarlsberg; or the now legendary no.9 are just some of the possible filling combinations. Southern Italian cuisine sings out in their choice of salamis and other speciality ingredients. Arancini (Sicilian rice balls) and Nonna’s very own meatballs (made using the secret family recipe) will sate any homesick Italian. The chocolate brownies are pretty special here, with bitter dark chocolate and crunchy nuts, or try the homemade

cannoli – delicate ricotta-filled tubes of joy with candied peel surprises, perfect washed down with a well-made cappuccino. + Heartwarming regional Italian fare - With so much choice, the feeling you’ve missed out

here, with plenty of different brews including Postcard Teas’ cleverly sourced concoctions and coffee from ultra-cool Swedish roasters Koppi. See the Table Talk feature on p.72 for more about designer Jaco Justice

Machina Espresso Kampong Ali Kopitiam North Bridge Arcade, 7–9 North Bridge, Old Town See Far East

NEW Liggy’s Cake Company 20 Deanhaugh Street,, Stockbridge, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B2, 15) 0131 332 2223, liggyscakes.co.uk | £4.50 (lunch)

There are few occasions in life where cake isn’t called for: in sorrow and celebration, its sweet buttery carb-y goodness is always apposite accompaniment. So hasten to Liggy’s Cake Company, where a sugary mouthful awaits. Acting primarily as a showroom for the jaw-dropping wedding cakes baker Elizabeth Morgan confects, their Stockbridge café will nevertheless happily fulfil your desires for a prettily formed cupcake or traybake and a cup of coffee. Flavours are traditional, tried and tested pairings: chocolate, lemon & poppyseed; carrot and cream cheese; vanilla and raspberry; or millionaire’s shortbread. Sponges are light as air, decorations decidedly girly and gilded, icing a shade too sugary, but no matter: you’ll be too hyped up on sweet vibes and caffeine to care. + Carrot cake is a knockout - Icing is decidedly pastel and frou-frou

NEW Lowdown Coffee 40 George Street, New Town (Map 1A: D5, 68) 0131 226 2132, fb.com/ lowdowncoffee | £6 (lunch)

The interior of this George Street basement coffee shop, conceived by local designer Jaco Justice, is a supersleek affair. It eschews the bare-brick industrial chic of many of its counterparts for a more polished, elegant look, including some smart seating and top-end finishes. In keeping with the minimalist surroundings, the food choice is fairly sparse, focusing on some hot savoury options and a carefully curated selection of some of the best in local baking, including treats from Suki Bakes. Coffee and tea are both given due consideration

2 Brougham Place, Tollcross (Map 3A: C1, 11) 0131 229 3495, machina-espresso. co.uk | £7.50 (set lunch)

If coffee’s your thing, Machina Espresso is your place. Choose between espressobased drinks or pour-overs made in a Chemex. There’s a friendly and calm ambience, with locals popping in for a chat and a takeaway or sitting in for Union of Genius soup and Manna House bread. The toastie menu offers fillings of chorizo, manchego, and rocket; or goat’s cheese, spinach, walnuts, and honey. If you’re inner child needs a treat try the Nutella and marshmallow. Décor comes in the form of some serious coffee brewing gear, some of which looks more like chemistry equipment, all of which is on sale here and at their warehouse. And if you don’t know how to use your new kit, there are training courses available to bring out that inner barista. + Well-executed coffees made from a selection of carefully curated roasts - Attention to detail takes time, you may be kept waiting

Mademoiselle Macaron 22 Grindlay Street, Tollcross (Map 4: C1, 33) 0131 228 4059, mademoisellemacaron. co.uk | Closed Mon | £7.50 (set lunch)

Hidden just far enough away from the rumble of Lothian Road, Mademoiselle Macaron is still something of an undiscovered phenomenon. When the small shop front and café is quiet, though, Mademoiselle and her team are kept busy packaging up painstakingly delicate boxes of rainbow macarons to be shipped across the city and further afield. Playful flavours and bright colours have an obvious appeal and variations from traditional raspberry to whisky or Irn-Bru seem to be gathering a reputation for themselves. While the menu here has an inevitable bias, a choux bun in the shape of a swan or a Paris-Brest puffed up with cream are both tempting alternatives alongside a cup of coffee. A wooden Eiffel tower protruding from the wall and a scattering of viewfinders with French scenes add notes of fun,

Maialino is a little piece of Tuscany in the West End. Owner Claudio Sapienza is keen to share his passion for the best Italian cured meats, cheeses, homemade chutneys and seasonal ingredients with regulars who live and work in the area. In this tiny café and deli, Claudio and his team offer tasty homemade soups, salads, paninis, toasties and sandwiches. The Angry Giuseppe sandwich is a delicious mix of spianata calabrese (extra hot salami), brie de meaux, rocket and roasted red peppers, or go for the Italian / Scottish combination of speck with Mull of Kintyre cheddar and sun-blushed tomatoes. For breakfast, the Tuscan pancetta roll is a favourite, and there’s also a range of Italian produce to peruse in the deli. If you’re looking for a taste of Italy in Edinburgh, look no further. + Great Italian sandwiches - Only a couple of seats inside

Maison de Moggy 17 West Port, Old Town (Map 2A: A3, 39) , maisondemoggy.com | No Kids (under 10) | £12 (set lunch)

If you’re a cake lover, you wanna watch out for Elodie. She’s small and cute but she’s a wily one; she’ll sneak up behind you and suddenly your peanut butter brownie from the Ridiculously Sticky Brownie Co will be no more. Ironically, it’ll be you that gets the blame from Laura O’Neill and her band of kitty protectors, who lay down strict rules, number one of which is don’t feed the furry ones. To be fair, this is more of a cat experience than a café and the cakes are a mere distraction from the feline fancies that you pay your £7 entry fee to hang out with. Look out for Chinchilla Persian Guillaume, who has the softest fur, or pure white Norwegian Forest Cat Jacques. Nonetheless, an impressive effort has gone into sourcing local tea, coffee and fresh cakes from top-notch Edinburgh bakeries for you to munch on in between strokes – just don’t leave anything unattended! + Elodie, Guilllame, Jacques and Philippe - You can’t just pop in, booking is a must

The Manna House 22–24 Easter Road (Map 5B: C5, 39) 0131 652 2349, themannahousebakery.co.uk | £8 (lunch)

The breadbasket overflows in this bright and cheerful wee place that’s been serving up freshly baked sweets and savouries for over a decade. Everything here is handmade in-house, using traditional techniques and as many local ingredients as possible. You eat in a working bakery, with the kitchen team kneading, shaping and baking in full view of the customers. The Manna House offers a mix of home baking and French patisserie, so along with a delicious choice of rolls, loaves and pastries you’ll also find a show-stopping selection of éclairs, operas, tartes and macarons. A savoury counter serves soups and sandwiches, quiches, frittata and big bold salads. It’s cash only, and you can’t reserve a table. But you’ll not wait long for one at this smashing little bakery that shows there’s so much more to great baking than a savoury slice. + More choice than you can shake a French stick at - There’s no loo The List Eating & Drinking Guide 61

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EDINBURGH

Mary’s Milk Bar

NEW The Milkman

19 Grassmarket, Old Town (Map 2A: A3, 41), marysmilkbar.com | Closed Mon | £7 (lunch)

7 Cockburn Street, Old Town (Map 2A: C2, 4) 07772 077 920 | £3

Having progressed from art school in Edinburgh to ice-cream school in Italy, Mary now pours her creative genius into weird and wonderful tubs of gelato at her Grassmarket milk bar. Tourists will inevitably be stopped in their tracks by this quirky little retro hangout with stunning views of Edinburgh Castle. Meanwhile, curious locals return to check out a daily-changing lineup of ice-creams. In berry season, staff collect fruit at a local pick-your-own, fresh for the churn. In the colder months, they toy with a plethora of alternative flavours from red bush tea to white chocolate and thyme. All are artfully concocted in the café’s small kitchen. For a treat, try the Bomb; smooth ice-cream encased in a crisp chocolate dome. Cones and sundaes can be pleasingly paired with a malted milk coffee or hot chocolate as well as a choice of milkshakes and floats. + Fun for grown-ups as well as kids - No toilet

You’d be forgiven for not noticing the Milkman at first glance. Nestled away at the bottom of Cockburn Street, it’s Tom Thumb-tiny but well worth seeking out. The décor is rustic and chic: all exposed brickwork and wooden tables (the few that there are, but you’ve got that it’s tiny, right?) and the coffee bar takes centre stage. At the moment, the menu is mostly pastries and cakes (the raspberry brownie in particular is worth a try), but there is also a range of savoury croissants if you’re after a light bite for lunch. Big plans are in place though: the owner aims to add a range of soups and sandwiches to the menu. The coffee here is top-rate, and the baristas all well-trained in the art of caffeine. This place may be small but it is mighty alright. + Excellent flat whites - You may have to battle for a table at busy times

Mimi’s Picnic Parlour 250 Canongate, Old Town See Cafés

NEW Meltmongers 80 Bruntsfield Place, Southside (Map 3A: B3, 29) 0131 466 9992 | Closed Mon | £9 (lunch)

Think cheese. Lots of gooey mature cheddar and gruyère, oozing out of fresh sourdough bread. Meltmongers is serious about all things melted. With a minimalist interior and only eighteen covers, this American-inspired café keeps proceedings intimate and incredibly friendly. The grilled cheese concept evolves: from the cheddar-filled classic; to melts crammed with brie and caramelised onions; and lemony grilled chicken and Jarlsberg. Plans are in place to introduce a breakfast menu, and their range of fried desserts feature the meltmallow: a Nutella, banana and marshmallow sandwich of dreams. These can be washed down with Hershey’s chocolate milk and Karma Cola’s Fairtrade sodas. + A quick, stop-by lunch - Realising your homemade toasties will always disappoint in comparison

TIPLIST FOR SENSE OF PLACE • Cannonball Restaurant & Bar Contemporary Scottish cuisine and whisky with Royal Mile and Castle views. 92 • Colonnades Opulent lunch or afternoon tea in the stunning Advocates Library; elegant, delicious and excellent value. 18 • Le Di-Vin Wine Bar Elegant and atmospheric West End bar in a beautiful old room that’s still a well-kept secret. 25 • The Forth Floor Brasserie Bright, contemporary restaurant, brasserie and bar with killer views across the New Town. 40 • The Gardener’s Cottage Social dining and seasonal cooking; imaginative and delicious, it won’t disappoint. 94 • RT’s Bar A notable collection of Scottish contemporary art in a classically located Georgian townhouse. 33

New Town Deli 42 Broughton Street , New Town See Cafés

Nutan’s 42 Home Street, Tollcross See Indian

Oink • 82 Canongate, Old Town (Map 2B: D2, 34) 07584 637416 • 34 Victoria Street, Old Town (Map 2A: B3, 28) 07771 968233, oinkhogroast. co.uk | £4 (lunch)

With a whole roasted pig in the window it’s fairly obvious what this place is about: slow roasted hog rolls and that’s about it. The hogs are reared at the owner’s family farm, Slighhouses in the Borders, where they also grow the grain they feed on. The hogs are roasted at the farm for 15 hours then delivered to Oink daily; you can’t get fresher than that. Victoria Street is mainly a takeaway with a handful of seats (and queues out the door), while Canongate is larger and a better choice for sitting-in. Both locations have the same options: choice of roll, size (as in how much meat you want), toppings like haggis or stuffing, and a choice of four sauces. The meat is moist and tender having roasted in nothing but some salt and its own juices. And whatever you do, don’t forget to ask for some super-crispy crackling. + No gluten-free rolls, but if you bring your own they’ll fill it - Very popular – expect queues (though they do move quickly)

✱ 181 Delicatessen 181 Bruntsfield Road, Tollcross (Map 3A: A4, 38) 0131 229 4554 | Closed Sun | £11 (lunch)

Rounding the bend as Bruntsfield and Morningside collide is this compact deli and café with only four much-in-demand tables. Serving produce that is almost impossible not to buy on the way out to enjoy again at home, 181 Delicatessen focuses its priorities on quality food with flavour that is fresh and natural. Brunch makes for difficult decisions. It’s a toss up between toasted bagels with Inverawe smoked salmon and cream cheese or a choice of imaginative, daily-changing, crisp pastry quiches – morbier cheese, apple and walnut is a genius combo. Cheese and ham sandwich is hardly a fitting description for 181’s version with Fife’s Puddledub gammon and Blarliath cheddar plus the added bonus of homemade beetrooty coleslaw. For

The Milkman: a tiny wee pit-stop coffee shop near Waverley Station

the larger appetite, the Producers Platter offers pretty much the lot, while the savoury theme segues into home-baking, with the likes of brie, walnut and parsley scones. + Great produce, imaginatively used - Not a lot of seating

The Pastures 24 Marchmont Crescent, Southside See Cafés

Patisserie Madeleine 27b Raeburn Place, Stockbridge (Map 1A: A1, 8) 0131 332 8455, patisseriemadeleine.com | Closed Mon | £4.10 (lunch)

Bejewelled éclairs, a rainbow sweep of macarons and chocolate globes with a mirror glaze almost perfect enough to see your own reflection are more than enough to commend this otherwise unassuming patisserie in Stockbridge. A minimalist beige interior lets the cakes do the talking and a well-stocked cabinet is motivation enough to bring shoppers through the door. While front of house retains a calm air of sophistication complete with French music playing and a few carefully chosen pictures and paper lamp shades, pastry chef Arnaud Djavanshir is working hard in the back kitchen to ensure a steady stream of painstakingly perfect pastries. Happily, they’re as pleasing on the palette as they are on the eye and there will be no regrets over a coffee teamed with a chewy pistachio macaron. + A pistachio macaron to write home about - Not much elbow room

✱ Pekoe Tea • 20 Leven Street, Tollcross (Map 3A: C2, 18) 0131 477 1838 | Closed Sun | • 55 Raeburn Place, Stockbridge (Map 1A: A1, 5) 0131 629 2420, pekoetea.co.uk | Closed Mon | £4 (lunch)

Apparently you’re not meant to drink tea cold and in two gulps after forgetting

about it all morning. Who knew? Pekoe Tea did. They have around 100 teas on their books and supply around 50 Edinburgh businesses. They import their Indian and Chinese teas directly and source all others through dedicated agents. Enjoying a cuppa in their shops is like relaxing in someone’s front room (if that someone was a self-proclaimed tea nerd like the staff at Pekoe). They will try to get you ‘tea drunk’ (yes, it’s a thing) on the earthy Pu Erh, a fermented Chinese tea, served in a tiny clay pot with a tiny saucer to drink it from. If you don’t want to get too giddy you could try the Scottish Earl Grey, blended in partnership with the Secret Herb Garden where all the botanicals are grown. + 10% discount if you take the tea you drank home - Small 10g bags of tea only available online

Pig in a Poke 95 Rose Street, New Town (Map 1A: C5, 59) 0131 226 1616, piginapoke.co | £5.90 (set lunch)

There are few things in life that provide such simple pleasure as pork between bread – whether that be a well-made bacon sandwich with real ketchup, a proper snapping hotdog with mustard, or a ham sandwich on granary bread. So it takes a bold enterprise to set its stall so completely on a single dish like Pig in a Poke does. And, with the explosion of places dishing up pulled pork these days, this relative newcomer with its simple hog roast offerings faces stiff competition. They succeed by doing exactly what you’d hope, delivering well-cooked meat, in a well-fired bun, with stuffing, crackling and apple sauce. Sure, you can have your pork served in other ways (in a wrap, panini or even on its own for the carb conscious) and with a host of other condiments, but why bother? As with many simple joys in life, the original way is still the best.

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+ A well-executed classic sandwich - When the pork’s gone, it’s gone

Tupiniquim

The Skylark

The Green Police Box, Middle Meadow Walk, Lauriston Place, Old Town See Round the World

241–243 High Street, Portobello See Bistros & Brasseries

Twelve Triangles

Social Bite 89 Shandwick Place, West End See Cafés

Söderberg • Quartermile, Old Town (Map 2A: B5, 66) 0131 228 5876 • 31 Queensferry Street, West End (Map 4: B1, 10) 0131 228 1905, soderberg.uk | Closed Sun | £7 (lunch)

The Söderberg bakeries are a satellite of the larger Peter’s Yard cafés, with branches in the West End and the Quartermile. Petite and stylish, their glass counters are filled with goodies – scones, cinnamon buns and mazarins – delicious cakes filled with almond paste. The shelves are loaded with a variety of breads (white sourdough is the regulars’ top choice), and they also serve focaccia topped with ingredients like olives, brie and red pepper. The fillings of cheese, meat and vegan sandwiches rotate daily, with the extremely tasty salmon laxora on white sourdough always available. Earthy soups such as root vegetable and barley are served with coarse rye bread, and there is also a salad option. You can pick up some Swedish granola, jams and marmalades – and the coffee is really good too. + Salmon laxora sandwich - Only a couple of chairs in the West End branch

Thyme 44 Earl Grey Street, Tollcross, Tollcross (Map 4: D2, 47) 07946 819982, lunchthyme.co.uk | Closed Sat/Sun | £5 (lunch)

Thyme is on a mission to make lunchtime more interesting for the hungry commuters, office staff, and students of Tollcross. The colourful menu boards list 50 different sandwiches, wraps, rolls, baked potatoes, and salads; all are made fresh to order and can be customised. Breakfast boasts bacon rolls, smoothies, and yoghurt pots with fresh fruit and granola. Salads are popular at lunch with the choice of mixed leaves, couscous, or both, under a crayfish Caesar or harissa chicken. Home baking includes chocolate nutty honeycomb bars, the perfect combination of salty and sweet. Dietary requirements are well catered for with a menu dedicated entirely to vegan, gluten free, and dairy free options. Takeaway is the main focus, though you can sit on a bar stool at the window. + Huge range means you’ll never get bored - Even with five different soups they sell out on a cold days

ONLINE LISTINGS For full opening hours, further details on facilities, individual location maps plus web and social media links, go to

list.co.uk/food

90 Brunswick Street, Leith (Map 5B: A5, 23) 0131 629 4664, twelvetriangles. co.uk | £5.50 (lunch)

After a coffee and a doughnut fix? This is the place. Twelve Triangles stands on the shoulders of the nearby Lovecrumbs bakery and offers a small, but perfectly formed, selection of breads, pastries and doughnuts along with fine tea, artisan coffee and rich hot chocolates. The menu changes daily according to the whims of the bakers and whatever flavour combinations take their fancy. Plum, walnut and gorgonzola focaccia anyone? Pistachio custard doughnut or perhaps a cinnamon bun with cream cheese icing? It’s a shopfront rather than a kitchen, but everything is freshly baked a short stroll away. This is a simple concept in a tiny space done well enough to have built up a loyal customer base and word of mouth brings a plentiful supply of newcomers through the door. + Paradise for doughnut lovers - A place for pudding, rather than lunch

✱ Union of Genius 8 Forrest Road, Old Town (Map 2A: C4, 59) 0131 226 4436, unionofgenius.com | Closed Sun | £6 (lunch)

Like the Stone Soup story where everyone contributes to the pot, Union of Genius is part of the community. They’ve been crowdfunded twice, donate 200 litres of soup monthly to a local charity, offer free soup for returning their compostable takeaway pots, and will happily share recipes with you. The café is small with a few bar stools and a large wooden table to share as a steady stream of takeaway customers come and go. There are two fresh salads and six soups on the menu: three change daily, two monthly, and the caldo verde – kale, chorizo and potato – is always on. Can’t decide between Armenian lentil and Ghanaian chicken? Have the soup flight with your choice of three soups and Dough-Re-Mi bread. There are veggie, vegan, and gluten free options, while a continually expanding wholesale business means you can now find Union of Genius soups in 30 cafés across Edinburgh. + Soups for most dietary requirements - Vegan chilli rarely on offer at the café – get it from the George Square van

CHINESE At first glance many of Edinburgh’s Chinese restaurants are only vaguely distinguishable from one another; the same menu, the same wallpaper, the same prawn crackers. But some restaurants do stand out, whether they’re doing the classics better than most others or because they’ve thrown out the rule book and refused to dull down their food to placate Western palates. Whether you are an intrepid eater seeking the authentic, or more nostalgically craving the familiar, Edinburgh’s Chinese scene has it all. You might just need to scratch the surface first. Reviewers: Jennifer Alford-Thornton, Will Bain, Katie Conaglen

B&D’s Kitchen 214 Dalry Road, West End (Map 4: A4, off) 0131 261 9248, bdskitchen.co.uk | Closed Mon | £10.20 (lunch) / £13.50 (dinner)

B&D are husband and wife Betty and David Law, whose diminutive restaurant at the Gorgie end of Dalry road is one of the few places in town that is likely to satisfy those after traditional Chinese cuisine. Most of the menu is predictable UK-friendly stuff, but get to the last page, and their selection of specialities shows a place that dares to do it like it might be done in China. So, if your interest is piqued by the likes of steamed ribs with cleansing bitter melon, or supple slices of home-cured pigs trotter and a delicious dipping sauce, look no further. The caveat is that many dishes need to be ordered 24 hours or more in advance, so planning ahead is advised, but when there’s treats like aubergine with umamirich nuggets of fermented shrimp at the end of it, the preorder anxiety is surely worthwhile. Don’t worry if you haven’t had the forethought, though – the daily available menu includes some decent freshly cooked staples, and B&D are happy to cater for all palates, however adventurous. + A warm welcome and some unexpurgated Cantonese cuisine - Having to preorder means impulsiveness isn’t allowed

China Red The Zulu Lounge 366 Morningside Road, Southside (Map 3B: A4, 5) 0131 466 8337, thezululounge.com | £6.50 (set lunch)

6 New Market Road, Slateford, West End (Map 3A: A1, off) 0131 443 8883 / 0131 443 8887, chinaredbuffet.com | £8.99 (set lunch) / £14.99 (set dinner)

In the heart of Morningside, the Zulu Lounge dishes up breakfast, lunch and a variety of traybakes and sweet treats with a South African spin. Settle into its cosy interior and choose from an array of freshly made soups, salads and sandwiches, or try the South African speciality, the boerewors roll with tangy tomato-based chakalaka sauce and chutney. Go for the same at breakfast and add an egg for good measure. For a traditional treat, koeksister is a sweet syrupy donut, or select from a choice of cakes, such as Malteser caramel shortbread. Or try their inventive and tasty Zulushakes – milkshake favourites including vanilla and Oreo cookies, which can be jazzed up with some Skittles or Smarties. If you’re lucky enough to get the bench in the window, settle in on a high stool and watch the world go by. + Boerewors roll for breakfast or lunch - Only a few high stools inside

Belly rumbling? Got a brood of starving kids to feed? Over-imbibed last night? China Red will do you proud. It’s all-you-can-eat but with a difference: you sit at a booth as a double decker conveyor belt trains a selection of dishes by – hot mains on the top level, cold starters and desserts below – for self service. The belt’s trip is a nine-minute odyssey that dishes up Chinese, Korean, Japanese and Thai fare (though Eton Mess and pepperoni pizza chunt by as well, suggesting a pleasingly borderless attitude to the food’s origins). Flavours tend towards the broad – king prawns in sweet and sour sauce don’t stint on the sweet, beef in black pepper sauce packs a pleasingly fiery punch. Salmon sashimi is plump and fresh and markedly better than many sushi joints in town. Nothing is precisely remarkable, but everything tastes fresh and gratifying, a rarity for buffets. Soft drinks are bottomless, waiters attentive, surroundings modern,

✱ HITLIST

CHINESE ✱ Imperial Palace A real insiders tip, the Imperial Palace deserves its reputation as one of the best Chinese restaurants in town. ✱ Karen’s Unicorn Spanning traditional Chinese and a more contemporary style, Karen’s Unicorn strives for high-quality cuisine. ✱ Stack Dim Sum Bar Madeto-order tasty morsels in a bijou joint just off Leith Walk. and there’s soft-serve ice-cream you can be-deck with Ice Magic chocolate for pudding. A cheerily abundant treat. + Something to please almost every palate - Deep-fried food grows soggy on the conveyor belt

NEW China Red 30 Grindlay Street, West End (Map 4: C1, 35) 0131 228 8688, chinaredbuffet.com | £8.99 (set lunch) / £14.99 (set dinner)

Brand new out of the box for 2016, China Red’s new venture at Grindlay Street (opposite the Lyceum Theatre) is a stylish, modern Chinese buffet restaurant. With the feel of a swish bar – low lighting and a range of enticing cocktails – it’s a little bit different and perhaps not quite what you might expect from the traditional all-you-can-eat. Two large oval islands in the centre contain over 40 dishes, from tender duck to tangy chicken curry, beef in a spicy black bean sauce to satay chicken. The options are endless and the temptation to refill your plate again and again is hard to resist. The quality of food is high and attentive staff regularly rotate around the restaurant ensuring the dishes are hot and fresh. If you fancy something sweet to finish, you’re well served here, with options including rocky road, chocolate muffins, carrot cake, mango sorbet or ice-cream. Or why not all of the above – no one’s judging, right? + Wide variety of dishes and good value - Getting up and down so much reduces the sense of occasion

China Town 3 Atholl Place, West End (Map 4: B2, 77) 0131 228 3333, chinatownedinburgh. com | No Kids (under 7) | Closed Tue | £9.30 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Entering China Town on a quieter night can be a little foreboding; the hush, the extravagant drapery and the curlicued high-backed chairs all lend the impression that this might be the kind of fancy-dan, high-end restaurant where Michelin pretensions are present in all but the boring food. Don’t be alarmed though, any hush in this place is there because customers are quietly savouring the quality of Thomas Chan’s cooking, which is anything but boring. There’s a combination of the authentic and anglicised on the extensive (perhaps The List Eating & Drinking Guide 63

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over-long) menu, but Chan is a dab hand at both, preparing everything to order from his impressive array of watercooled wok burners, so even sesame prawn toasts feel fresh. Mo po do fu comes with beef or pork, and is slippery and rich, while a sizzling pork belly dish is cleverly balanced with spice and sweetness. There’s sweetness too in the service, which is natural and unhurried, and a good deal warmer than first impressions would suggest. + Initial impressions swept aside with warm service and soulful food - More daring dishes on the menu, please

Chop Chop 248 Morrison Street, West End (Map 4: B2, 70) 0131 221 1155, chop-chop.co.uk | £8.50 (set lunch) / £18.50 (dinner)

Ten years ago, Chop Chop opened its doors and introduced a grateful Edinburgh to the joy of the northern Chinese dumpling. Folk talked of the spangly tabletops covered in big Manchurian banquets, punctuated by an endless stream of dumplings. The buzz has dwindled but the dumplings remain, and remain delicious. Served boiled (jiao zi) or fried (guo tie), they’re addictively and satisfyingly savoury. This is needed, as other dishes can suffer from an injudicious hand with the sugar, as in a decidedly gloopy, overly sweet, northern beef dish. Still, there’s lots that’s worth rooting out, like the deliciously slippery aubergines with garlic or the soft wheaten noodles, and clued-up staff are more than happy to help newcomers navigate the menu. All in all, it’s got to be handed to Chop Chop for remaining one of the all too few places which attempt to open our

palates to the vastness of regional Chinese cuisine, even if that means leaving with a week-long craving for more jiao zi. + Testing your chopstick skills by dipping dumplings - The sugar hangover that follows some dishes

Golden Dragon Restaurant 21 Castle Street, New Town (Map 1A: B5, 54) 0131 225 7327, thegoldendragon.eu | £20 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

In a prime central location, just a hop, skip and a jump from Princes Street, The Golden Dragon has been serving up nostalgic Chinese comfort food to Edinburgh residents and tourists since the sixties. Up a set of stairs, the bright interior is decorated with the trappings you’d expect from Chinese restaurants of old. The comprehensive Cantonese menu includes all the comfort-eating staples – crisp prawn toast is golden and comes straight from the fryer, the salt and chilli prawns are generous, butterflied and coated in a light savoury crust. Lemon chicken hits the comfort button jackpot and delivers up sweet, succulent breast meat in a light sauce with smatterings of crunchy vegetables to provide textural interest. Staff are courteous and welcoming, and if you happen to be dining around Chinese New Year, be sure to try the nian gao, a simple steamed pudding which is considered good luck. The higher the rise, the more prosperity one can hope to attain. + Chinese comfort eating - Not for the adventurous of palate

✱ Imperial Palace

Golden Dragon Restaurant: Chinese comfort food in a prime location

36 Inglis Green Road, West End (Map 4: A4, off) 0131 443 6898, imperialpalace. org.uk | Closed Wed | £7.80 (set lunch) / £14.50 (dinner)

Way out west, past Haymarket, past the Caley, past the Corn Exchange, lies what could be Edinburgh’s best Chinese restaurant. Housed in a bizarre mocktemple atop a Chinese supermarket, the capacious Imperial Palace is a remarkably busy place; all 120 seats are frequently fully occupied with a lively cross-cultural, inter-generational mix of diners after real Chinese cuisine. It’s easily worth the two bus rides (plus) to get there for the quality of its Cantonese and Szechuan food and, most especially, for its star offer: dim sum made inhouse. A lazy susan loaded with (for example) sumptuous king prawn cheung fun, handsome char siu bao and juicy pork har kow makes for one of the most fun and tasty lunches in town. And because it’s freshly made, it doesn’t leave that jittery and slightly shameful feeling that can occur following the more suspicious all-you-can-eat buffets. In fact, the food in the Imperial Palace is about as far away from the buffet brigade as you’re likely to get; it’s just a shame that’s the case with its location too. + All hail dim sum - Being the designated driver

✱ Karen’s Unicorn

(Formerly Indian Cavalry Club)

‘Quality Chinese cuisine and a pleasantly tranquil ambience’ - The List 3 Atholl Place, Edinburgh EH3 8HP

0131 228 3333 (Restaurant Bookings) 0131 228 8883 (Takeaway)

www.chinatownedinburgh.com CERTIFICATE OF EXCELLENCE 2 YEARS RUNNING 2013 & 2014

d! Hitliste

IN THE LIST EATING & DRINKING GUIDE 2013, 2014 & 2015

8b Abercromby Place, New Town (Map 1B: B4, 67) 0131 556 6333, karensunicorn.com | Closed Mon | £9.95 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)

Situated at a rather happening little crossroads in the New Town, Karen’s Unicorn strives to exceed expectations from the get go. The large Georgian interior is cleverly split into two dining areas. Candlelight, muted greys and crisp linens create an intimate, and elegant, dining experience. Chilli squid delivers aromatic and restrained heat which builds rather than punches. The precise cooking of the calamari offers early insight into the chef’s delicate touch. Duck in plum sauce, a menu staple, delivers sweetness but is never cloying. The intense

flavour of the tender roast meat is perfectly complemented with honeyed citrus liquor. Hake with asparagus is succulent pieces of tender fish gently coated in a subtle ginger veneer. Once again, the chef’s sympathy with the ingredients ensures the clean taste of the sea endures and is nicely matched by crunchy greens and lotus root. No matter how full, the reimagining of the traditional banana fritter is a must. Topped with candyfloss and floating in a light syrup sauce, the brittle golden orbs crack apart to reveal an intense banana purée within. + Well-rounded wine list for all budgets - You may not have room left for dessert

Kweilin 19–21 Dundas Street, New Town (Map 1A: D3, 97) 0131 557 1875, kweilin. net | Closed Mon | £15 (lunch) / £17.50 (dinner)

With its paper lanterns, uniformed staff and large Chinese murals on the wall, Kweilin is the dignified elder statesman of the Chinese dining scene in Edinburgh, a brief it fulfils in its cooking as well as its aesthetic. A comprehensive and unapologetically traditional menu offers everything you’d expect in a British Chinese restaurant – chow mein, clay pots, sweet and sour, with the restaurant calling attention to its seafood as a speciality. And so it is: scallops with cashew nuts in a crisp noodle nest are lovingly braised, steamed sea bass gloriously melting to taste and prawn dumplings with lightly glutinous wrapping hugging delectable prawn. If fruits of the sea don’t tempt you, vegetarian spring rolls are crisp, light and boast delicately fresh veg. Cantonese roast duck is a particular standout: charred and crunchy skin encasing tenderly perfect flesh. There’s nothing revolutionary on offer, and prices aren’t thrifty, but the quality is uniformly terrific, and you’re handed a steaming hot face towel at meal’s end: sometimes old fashioned customs can’t be beat. + Those seafood specialities - It’s old-school Chinese, for better or worse

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Kwok Brasserie 44 Ratcliffe Terrace, Causewayside, Southside (Map 3C: C5, 30) 0131 668 1818, kwokbrasserie.co.uk | Closed Mon | £9.40 (lunch) / £12.50 (dinner)

With its gold cornicing and incarnadine walls, this little Causewayside local gives a lavish first impression. Once past the high-falutin décor, there’s little to differentiate the menu from the rest of the pack, though changing specials may offer some interest to the intrepid; dishes like the beef belly hotpot or the fiercely garlicky steamed langoustines aren’t your average fare. Being of Hong Kong provenance, the Kwok family (headed by the ebullient Rebecca) are proud of their dim sum. Of these, unusual beef dumplings come as little spheres of meat, which, when dipped in their accompanying sauce, are more than a little redolent of Lorne sausage with HP sauce. For the more traditional diner, a surefire menu of classics is available, with particular attention paid to spicy-sweet Szechuan dishes. This is a real neighbourhood joint when it comes down to it, loved by its regulars, but perhaps not worth a traipse across town. + The cosiness and personality of the place - The chewy prawn toasts

Loon Fung 2 Warriston Place, Canonmills (Map 1B: A1, 3) 0131 556 1781/557 0940, loonfungedinburgh.co.uk | £8.50 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

In the heart of Canonmills, Loon Fung has been serving up quality Cantonese food to Edinburgh residents for over 40 years. Brimming with old-style charm, muted colours combine with

subtle lighting to create a retro, intimate ambience. Fresh fish is a matter of great pride. The scallop with ginger and spring onion belies the simplicity of the description and sees a steamed, buttery scallop and coral resting in an aromatic jus which delivers an exceptionally appetising contrast to the naturally sweet shellfish. Crisp monkfish, with an option of two dipping sauces, is lightly spiced atop a bed of crisp vegetables. Beautifully tender, once more the chef’s deft hand with seafood is on display, although let down a little by a rather simple sauce. Service is friendly but not intrusive, the experienced staff eager to help and share their wealth of knowledge. For the fish of the day alone, this spot just over Canonmill’s bridge is worth a little detour. + Great customer service - Requires a bit of a detour

Noodle N Ice 24–25 South Bridge, Old Town See Thai

Saigon Saigon Restaurant 14 South St Andrew Street, New Town (Map 1B: B6, 53) 0131 557 3737, saigonsaigon.co.uk | £8.99 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

In a prime central location just off Princes Street, Saigon Saigon has become a draw for tourists and local office workers thanks to the great value lunch buffet and dim sum. On the inside, red is the colour of the day. A deep burgundy hue envelops the geometric ceiling and architectural features. Lacquered art adorns the walls, creating a bright, old-style interior. The place bustles as energetic staff dash about delivering piping hot

food to their patrons. Paper tablecloths are whipped away to make way for the next set of hungry customers. Prawn and bean curd rolls arrive equator-hot with succulent chunks of prawn and creamy tofu rolled in a crisp outer shell accompanied by a tart dipping sauce. Northern Chinese dishes feature throughout the day and, for more adventurous diners after a taste of authentic Chinese home-cooking, there’s chicken claws, golden tripe and black fungus among many other options. + Vast choice in a bustling atmosphere - Service a little impersonal

✱ Stack Dim Sum Bar 42 Dalmeny Street, Leith (Map 5B: B3, 12) 0131 553 7330 | Closed Wed | £12 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Just off Leith Walk’s main drag, Stack Dim Sum Bar is an unassuming wee joint, but well worth a detour. Stack offers an array of boldly flavoured steamed or fried dim sum, all cooked to order. The char siu bun is a delightful example of its form, light and pappy on the outside with sweet, melting pork innards. Each wobbly, gelatinous bite of the radish slice is offset by a fiercely spicy sauce, while the red bean paste trio is a juxtaposition of crispfried exterior and delectably sweet bean paste interior. And don’t think about giving the sensational chicken claws with black pepper a miss: slow braised to a tender, treacly morsel that’s lip-smacking and complex. Chive dumplings suffer from a brash porky taste, but it’s a rare slip. If sharing’s not your bag, there’s larger stir-fried noodle dishes to choose from, but that feels like a missed trick: the dim sum

offer a multitude of enticing mouthfuls, coaxing you to eat till your zipper bursts. + So many tastes, so many textures, so so good - Not a location to head to if dieting

Wing Sing Inn 147–149 Dundee Street, West End (Map 4: B4, 55) 0131 228 6668 | £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

To borrow a phrase from Star Wars, Wing Sing Inn may not look like much, but it’s got it where it counts. This unassuming Chinese restaurant and takeaway hunkered down near Fountain Park boasts some staggeringly satisfying Chinese cuisine. The interior is pure run-down conference room chic, but if your soul needs the succour of that other Holy Trinity – oil, carbs and meat – enter here. A Szechuan chicken dish comes with batter light and crunchy, with a hint of fire in its peppery coating. Salt and pepper tofu has yielding, soft tofu encased in a salty shell. Then there’s the swooningly good steamed sea bass in soy – with plump juicy flesh and a sweetly salty sauce: simple perfection. Dumplings have pleasing fillings but come in a gelatinously thick wrapping. If you’ve an adventurous palate, this is your joint – there’s pork intestines, frog legs, jellyfish and tripe to be found among dishes more familiar to Scottish taste buds. Portion sizes mean desserts don’t get a look in: you’ll be unbuttoning your trousers before you’ve even finished the starters. + Fresh, authentic Chinese that’s uncompromising on flavour - You may be too full to move afterwards

A high standard buffet restaurant with an oriental twist, serving a range of cuisines in two Edinburgh based locations. t Sushi t Chinese t Japanese

t Thai t Korean t Dim Sum

30 Grindlay Street Edinburgh EH3 9AP 0131 228 8688

Also offering:

t Desserts t Karaoke

6 New Market Road Edinburgh EH14 1RJ 0131 443 8883

China Red a t New M arket Road is the ﬁrst re s in the tauran UK to t have a air-co fully nditio ned d o decke ubler rotati onal food b elt!

www.chinaredbuffet.com

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FAR EAST FUSION, JAPANESE, MALAYSIAN, KOREAN Recent years have seen Edinburgh’s once paltry Far Eastern dining scene blossom. Where a decade ago there was a mere gaggle of Japanese restaurants scattered across town, now Malaysian, Korean and Vietnamese food shine. That means there are new and difficult decisions to be made: ramen or pho? Ssam or nasi lemak? High-end or home-spun? Tough choices, made tougher by pretty good standards across the board – after all, where there are four different places to get a decent bibimbap, you know there’s a lively scene going on. It’s exciting times for Asian dining in Edinburgh (unless you’re terminally indecisive). Reviewers: Jennifer Alford-Thornton, Will Bain, Katie Conaglen

Bar Soba FUSION 104 Hanover Street, City Centre (Map 1A: D4, 87) 0131 225 6220, barsoba. co.uk | £8.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Bar Soba’s dining space lies down a set of stairs beneath its buzzy cocktail bar. There’s a nightclub vibe with dim lighting and dance music on the decks, while its interior reflects an eclectic mix of styles – exposed light bulbs, neon and metal juxtaposed with Georgian panelling. Alongside the long communal benches, there are cosier touches such as leather armchairs to inject warmth into the space. The eclecticism extends to what’s on the plate, with a selection of pan-Asian street food including dedicated vegetarian and gluten-free menus. The sharing platter contains a broad mix of deep-fried delicacies – spring rolls are dainty and satisfyingly brittle, the chicken satay is lush and the sweetcorn and coconut fritters are crunchy with subtle hints of spice. Thai fish’n’chips is fusion incarnate, with sea bass fillet merged with a flavoursome blend of prawns and lime leaf in a light tempura batter. Accompanied by chilli fries and a refreshing mango salad, the fish’s natural delicacy remains intact and the combination of crisp skin and rich prawn delivers a truly standout dish. + Everything freshly prepared on site - Not ideal for a quiet romantic meal

Bonsai Bar Bistro JAPANESE 46 West Richmond Street, Old Town (Map 2B: B5, 19) 0131 668 3847, bonsaibarbistro.co.uk | £11 (lunch) / £14.95 (dinner)

A night at Bonsai somehow feels a bit like having dinner in the flat of a Japanophile student; it’s cosy, there’s Japanese ephemera everywhere (kanji banners, manga posters, a metal Godzilla with scimitar glaring balefully from a height) and there’s an easygoing, natural way about the place. This should be no surprise, as they’ve been getting into the swing of their neighbourhood niche for a remarkable 16 years now. The cooking isn’t always flawless, but mostly it’s worth going back for, and the bento boxes and lunch deals offer outstanding value for money. What’s more, some imaginative dishes have worked their way onto the expansive menu. So alongside the staples of sashimi, katsu and sushi – the unagi always a highlight – you might find specials like the delicious futomaki, with crisp sea bass skin and rich truffle mayo, or sunny slices of pickled golden beetroot complementing salmon tataki, an innovative combination proving that this elder of Edinburgh’s Japanese scene still has a bit of youthful exuberance left in it. + Light and crisp tempura aubergine - Globby duck gyoza

China Red FUSION • 30 Grindlay Street, West End • 6 New Market Road, Slateford, West End See Chinese

Hakataya JAPANESE 120–122 Rose Street South Lane, New Town (Map 1A: B5, 52) 0131 629 3320, hakatayauk.com | £8.50 (set lunch) / £18.95 (dinner)

Keep your eyes peeled for Hakataya: this Japanese restaurant is hidden in plain sight down a side lane off Rose Street, and if you’re a fan of food from the land of the rising sun, to miss it would be missing a trick. Handsomely appointed, with cosy tables and a bright mural featuring Mount Fuji on the wall, it’s a pleasing getaway in the heart of the city, offering an expertly select choice of ramen, sushi and yakitori. The fairly priced bento box offers cloudy, warming miso, sticky rice, and tempura vegetables. The batter on the veggies is thicker than customary but crunchily delicious all the same. The ramen has a rightful reputation as some of Edinburgh’s finest, with an intricately flavoured broth that’s not too salty. Tonkotsu ramen comes crowned with soft, yielding slabs of char

siu pork. Sashimi is simply done but perfect: salmon squishy, vibrantly pink and unctuous to taste, tuna so fresh it dissolves on the tongue, everything at peak temperature, though starkly tiny portions of each mean these are fleeting delights. + Seriously fresh sashimi - £6 for a bottle of beer feels cheeky at best

comforting broth with crunchy, breaded prawns, crab, sea bass and squid on the side, which delivers up a generous and exceedingly filling meal. Moriawase tempura sees feathery battered prawns and wispy vegetables accompanied by a delicately seasoned dipping sauce. What the venue lacks in atmosphere, it makes up for with prompt and polite service. + Generous portions at good prices - Can feel a little functional

Harajuku Kitchen JAPANESE 10 Gillespie Place, Tollcross (Map 3A: B2, 23) 0131 281 0526, harajukukitchen. co.uk | Closed Mon | £12.95 (set lunch) / £14.90 (dinner)

The simple, chic, light-wood interiors of Harajuku Kitchen are a world away from the frantic garishness of their namesake Tokyo district, and this is no bad thing: here is a calm, tranquil oasis in Bruntsfield, a popular spot with locals seeking a taste of Japan. Orders are sent out as and when ready, so there’s no starters or mains here: simply a succession of elegant and intriguing flavours and textures. Beef tataki is pinkly rare and pleasingly soused in a sherried citrus ponzu sauce, while the more herbaciously inclined will thrill to the finely textured vegetarian gyoza, which have the gleeful slipperiness of a really great kiddie meal, dipped in a mouth-shrivelling vinegar sauce. Sophisticated, and lovingly arranged beside ginger, soy and wasabi, come fresh assorted sashimi, succulent and boasting a lovely, cool mouth-feel. If you’re a bit faint of heart for raw fish, the vegetarian gourmet maki offers the sweet taste of kanpyo (calabash) and fluffy omelette, wrapped in pearlescent-grained, delicately seasoned rice. If you’ve a cavernous belly, opt for the dashi-broth udon noodle soup: oh my, so umami! + Lovingly prepared delicate dishes - Sashimi portions aren’t for those looking to fill their boots

Kampong Ah Lee Malaysian Delight MALAYSIAN 28 Clerk Street, Southside (Map 3C: D1, 9) 0131 662 9050, kampungali.com/ sister-restaurant | Closed Tue | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Translated as ‘Lee’s Village’, Kampong Ah Lee promises ‘Malaysia Delight’ via the bold yellow sign on the everbusy Clerk Street. Inside this modest diner, basic pine tables, bright lights and flowery wallpaper create a friendly and relaxed atmosphere. Staff are happy to accommodate personal preferences when it comes to the level of heat in their dishes. Crisp chicken wings arrive in generous portions, resting in rich honey liquor. Deep-fried tofu promises much on the outside but within the bean curd is a little soggy. Spicy king prawns come as a decent-sized portion, the large, meaty, part-shelled prawns sitting atop a medium-heat stir-fry, teeming with dried red chillis. Sambal beef delivers more of a kick, with tender beef, chillis and prawn paste all combined in a tangy sauce with okra and crunchy onions for added texture. Ah Lee is a no frills spot which offers a taste of home to Edinburgh’s Malaysian community and is clearly a popular destination judging by the satisfied smiles on the faces of families, students and locals in-the-know. + Convivial atmosphere - Someone please shut the front door

NEW Kampong Ali Kopitiam Hay Sushi

MALAYSIAN

JAPANESE

North Bridge Arcade, 7–9 North Bridge, Old Town (Map 2A: D2, 12) | £7 (lunch)

15 Dalry Road, West End (Map 4: A3, 64) 0131 337 7522, haysushi-edinburgh. co.uk | £9.90 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

With Haymarket station’s façade visible from your table, Hay Sushi is well situated for travellers seeking a quick lunch or a pre-evening bite to eat. The interior is simple and understated with a few flashes of neon, Japanese art and the ubiquitous paper lanterns which adorn the windows. Octopus balls are crisp golden orbs which belie the light and fluffy centres. Countered by tangy Tokyo sauce, they provide a filling and satisfying starter. Tuna sashimi is glossy, ruby-coloured and melts in the mouth. Seafood ramen is a rich and

Tucked into the North Bridge Arcade, this no-frills café offers a welcome break from the crowds at lunchtime. Part of the Kampong Ali stable, the café features a pared-down menu of simple Malaysian food which is perfect for a speedy, spicy lunch pit-stop. Softly unctuous roti canai is traditional Malaysian street food, usually served with a simple curry sauce as it is here, but you could also go large and add a chicken curry or beef rendang – slow cooked, savoury and perfect for a nippy day in the city. Big bowls of laksa are also on offer, as well as satay and soupy noodles. At first glance, prices seem high, but you’re getting far more

15 Roseneath Street, Edinburgh EH9 1JH | Tel 0131 281 5613 | saikokitchen.com | 66 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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than a wee sandwich here – it’s a filling lunch which will spice up the rest of your day. + Nicely spicy - A few more frills wouldn’t hurt

✱ HITLIST

Kampung Ali Malaysian Delight MALAYSIAN 97–101 Fountainbridge, West End (Map 4: C3, 50) 0131 228 5069, kampungali. com | Closed Tue | £7.80 (set lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Kampung Ali Malaysian Delight might be described as the more grown-up of the three sister restaurants located between Fountainbridge, Clerk Street and, most recently, North Bridge. Refurbished to further emphasise their street food leanings, the interior includes decorative street lighting and road markings on the floor. The colourful combination of styles on display is a good reflection of Malaysian cooking itself which blends Chinese, Malay and Indian cuisines to great effect. There’s a joyful quality to the food which carries through to the generous portions. A starter of moist chicken skewers smothered in a hot satay sauce bears no resemblance to the generic peanut butter coating you may be accustomed to. Red curry chicken is mild, tender meat in a lightly spiced milky broth with rich aubergine and crunchy okra. Malaysia spicy squid delivers quite the kick thanks to the chilli-packed dark sauce which engulfs the firm seafood. Do try to leave room for the Kaya pancakes – light, roti-style flatbreads filled with a Malaysian coconut curd, this is comfort food at its best. + Joyful blend of cuisines in a cosy atmosphere - Could get overlooked in its awkward junction location

✱ Kanpai JAPANESE 8–10 Grindlay Street, West End (Map 4: D1, 32) 0131 228 1602, kanpaisushi.co.uk | Closed Mon | £14.20 (lunch) / £18.50 (dinner)

Edinburgh’s Japanese scene is generally too homespun to do a serious job of showcasing the famous elegance and understatement of the Japanese restaurant kitchen. Not so Kanpai, where clean lines and confident service suggest anything but home-spinning, and whose food is all about finesse, from the super-fine batter coating the tofu, to the delicate crisp yam noodles. Sushi here seems far more than the sum of its parts, even though those parts are pretty noteworthy; chef Max has pretty high spec for his fish, requiring, for instance, Irish sea mackerel and Japanese tuna. Such attention to sourcing results in the cleanest tasting sashimi around, even though you’ll have to leave your sustainability hat at the door. A sensibly concise drinks list (including some superb sake) complements rather than confuses the enticing menu, and service is as smooth and elegant as the rest of the package, thanks to the watchful eye of maître d’ Christophe. Of course it comes at a price, but not an outrageous one, and really, it’s not easy to find this standard anywhere else in town. + Wanting to eat everything on the menu - Having your wallet tell you to stop

Kim’s Mini Meals KOREAN 5 Buccleuch Street, Southside (Map 3C: D1, 2) 0131 629 7951, kimsminimeals. com | Closed Sun | £18 (dinner)

For three bustling hours, six days a week, this tiny family restaurant throngs with customers after their fix of Korean specialities like kimchi, bulgogi, kimbap and, yes, spam. The no-bookings policy means there’s rarely a night without

FAR EAST ✱ Kanpai Sophisticated, stylish, and seriously skilled, Kanpai is the high achiever of Edinburgh’s Japanese scene. ✱ Saiko Kitchen Fresh, bountiful, flavoursome panAsian street-style dishes in funky surrounds. ✱ Sushiya Sleek and stylish Japanese restaurant with an unwavering attention to detail. ✱ Vietnam House Restaurant Fabulous pho and superlative spring rolls: huge on flavour, easy on the wallet. a queue, and though the vibrancy and energy of the service (headed by the dynamic Harkwoon Kim) makes it move reasonably quickly, the strict 8.30pm kitchen closure means you want to get there early. The food is handsome recompense for the wait, with a complimentary soup and outstanding pickles whetting the appetite for the treats to come. Among these, dolsot bibimbap – a spitting-hot stone bowl layered with rice, vegetables, meat and egg, mixed at the table – is a particular highlight, as is the alarming sounding but completely delicious kimchi jigae, a fermented cabbage and spam stew. Though tasty, this is rustic food, so don’t expect the seasoning of the pa jeon to be perfect, or the mussels in the bokkeumbap to be be juicy and tender, but do expect it to be generous, comforting and full of character. + A good Korean pickle is one of life’s finer things - The gamble of getting in in the first place

NEW Maki & Ramen NOODLE & SUSHI BARS 13 West Richmond Street, Southside (Map 2B: A5, 18) 07548 628685 | £13.30 (lunch) / £13.30 (dinner)

If, like most right-thinking people, you believe that sometimes there’s no salve greater than shovelling mouthful after mouthful of hot, slippery, perfectly seasoned noodles into your gob, then rejoice, friend: Maki & Ramen is the mothership, calling you home. Sitting bar-style in the restaurant’s narrow surrounds – a funky, brightly decorated spot that whispers of Tokyo – the focus is chatter and nosh. Vegetarian, beef, or seafood ramen come in bowls big enough to house a goldfish – the broth savoury and bolstering, noodles tangled and plentiful. But there’s more than just restorative ramen to satisfy you: yakitori (octopus balls) are a deep-fried, cheesefilled seafood glory, while beef tataki smacks of earthiness and chicken skewers are pleasing, if meagre in portion. Staff are impeccably helpful and cheery, and there’s bottomless free green tea to wash The List Eating & Drinking Guide 67

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everything down. Affordable, enjoyable, and fast – the perfect quick-fix meal. + Food for the soul as well as the belly - No maki on offer at the time

Nanyang Malaysian Cuisine MALAYSIAN Unit 1, 3–5 Lister Square, South Pavilion, Quartermile, Southside (Map 2A: A5, 64) 0131 629 1797, nanyangrestaurant.com | £6.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

If you’ve given the sleek, some would say soulless, Quartermile development a body swerve when it comes to eating out, then you’re missing a trick: Nanyang’s is terrifically good. Salt and chilli crab comes with the crunch of a tempura-light batter and a pleasing, just-this-side-ofspicy tang. Roti chenai is soft and fluffy as a cloud, albeit a cloud that rains butter. The Malaysian chicken curry is distinct, lighter and with a sour creamy freshness to it that holds it apart from any of its punchier Indian counterparts. Grilled sea bass, disrobed from a bamboo leaf cloak, is as unctuous and compulsive a dish as you could hope to find. The fish is buried under a tar-black onion and pepper concoction, sweet and sticky and singing with lemongrass. Black rice pudding is sticky sweet with a lingering saltiness on the tongue: an exotic remodel of the school dinner treat. + Food is outrageously good - Desserts don’t reach high standard of mains

No 1 Sushi Bar JAPANESE 37 Home Street, Tollcross (Map 3A: B1, 7) 0131 229 6880, no1sushibar.co.uk | £12.50 (set lunch) / £22.90 (set dinner)

Just across the road from the Cameo Cinema, No 1 Sushi would make for happy pre-screening nosh if you’re looking for something light but bolstering. Its environs are clean and a shade utilitarian, but offset by the bright, colourful range of sushi on offer. Miso soup is a warm, restorative start, the cloudy broth good and umami. Vegetarian dumplings offer a piping bean curd, onion and cabbage filling in a light, lovely wrapping (too many dumplings fall prey to chewy casings, but not these bad boys). They’re delightful dipped in an intensely salty, smoky and piquant sour sauce. Sashimi comes thinly sliced and delicate, albeit a bit too cold for optimal taste. Salmon and avocado maki are toothsome morsels – the rice is well seasoned and cooked, with individual grains apparent on the tongue rather than the homogenised mush of supermarket sushi. If you’re of the inclination to make sushi a little less virtuous, the Tokyo roll boasts golden breaded chicken and lashings of mayonnaise on top. It’s likely a Westernised bastardisation, to be sure, but damn fine all the same. + The sushi rice is a standout - Sashimi comes too cold

Ong Gie KOREAN 22a Brougham Place, Tollcross (Map 3A: C1, 12) 0131 229 0869, onggie.com | Closed Sun | £12 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Cooking your own tea isn’t what everyone looks for when they’re eating out, but for those that do, Ong Gie leaves the competition standing; here you can fry, boil or grill your dinner at the table. Owner Wan Koo and team are happy to demonstrate how to use your tabletop infra-red grill, assuaging any anxiety that the combination of hot surfaces and taking responsibility for your own dinner might create. For those that aren’t up for the DIY option, there’s plenty on the menu that doesn’t require self-cooking, like some splendid, shapely dumplings, and jabche, a delicious glass noodle dish

chock full of finely diced vegetables and slivers of beef. But flipping slices of meat (of all sorts – pork belly, prawns, ox tongue) on the grill adds a real element of fun to the meal, and though the grill doesn’t seem to get hot enough to brown ingredients to perfection, rolling the results up in bitter lettuce with rice, kim chi and a lip-smacking bean sauce makes for a pretty tasty dinner, no matter what sort of cook you are. + Duelling with chopsticks over the choicest bits off the grill - Infra-red grills don’t give the meat a satisfying sizzle

✱ Saiko Kitchen VIETNAMESE 15 Roseneath Street, Southside (Map 3C: A2, 35) 0131 281 5613, saikokitchen. co.uk | Closed Sun/Mon | £12.45 (lunch) / £12.45 (dinner)

Marchmonters, be advised: this should be your new local lunch-spot, your go-to place for a wholesome, tasty weeknight dinner. Inspired by owner Natalie Florance’s love of Vietnamese street food, Saiko Kitchen offers bountiful bowls of pan-Asian goodness at cheerful prices. Starters are robust: Thai fishcakes a particular standout, tasting – praise be – of fish, something of a rarity in many other fishcakes. They’re lightly flavoured with onion and chilli and fried to perfection. Similarly, the panko-breaded chicken is oh-so-crunchy and perfectly seasoned. Mains are belly-fillers: the Hanoi chicken broth a lip-smacking bowlful of lemongrass-infused broth, chunky chicken, and liberal coriander and chilli. The sticky hoisin chicken salad is a mountain of tangy chicken, julienned vegetables, crunchy noodles and vermicelli. If you’re a student with a grumbling tummy, this dish could set you up for the night . . . and possibly well into the next day. Sweet tooth? A dessert of banana and peanut butter ice-cream cake is a swooning send-off to an altogether delightful meal. An inexpensive restaurant that invites repeat visits. + Healthy hearty servings - No alcohol licence yet – this food is screaming for a cold beer

There is no getting around the fact Sushiya is small. That said, what it lacks in space, it makes up for with a sleek and stylish fitout of dark woods and whitewashed walls. As cool jazz plays on the stereo, perch on one of the high stools for a bird’s eye view of the sushi chef as he works his magic. Starters such as seaweed salad with sesame will get the tastebuds tingling. The springy texture and light dressing makes for a healthy yet gratifying entrée. Panfried dumplings are feather-light and complemented by a sharp dipping sauce. Emaki sushi is presented as bouquets of seafood joy, encased in a crisp seaweed cone containing moist rice, crunchy veg and smoky, unctuous eel. The sashimi selection takes things to a whole other level and really ought to be mandatory – ruby-red slices of succulent tuna, transparent, iodine-rich sea bass and gleaming salmon which melts like butter, are perfect reflections of the restaurant’s meticulous attention to detail. + The fish! - A little snug JAPANESE

In the heart of Edinburgh’s Old Town, Tang’s is a traditional Japanese restaurant with views of Greyfriars Bobby from its first floor window. Over the years, it has become a destination for foreign students and tourists looking for a hearty bowl of ramen after pounding the city streets and the exhibitions at the nearby museum. Spread across two floors, the unfussy interior reflects a simple, paredback aesthetic with one exception – the rather eye-catching bamboo wallpaper. Agedashi tofu arrives crisp and golden, floating in a rich, sweet and salty broth with sparks of seaweed and spring onions. The curdy centre is creamy and yielding. As the crust soaks up the moisture from the soup, the coating takes on a pleasing sticky spider-web quality. Nasu miso (fried aubergine with miso sauce) is charred and softly textured, the sharp salty miso providing a perfect foil for the rich oily flesh. Pork katsu don sees plump rice, fried onions and egg topped off with a deep-fried pork cutlet delivering a substantial, flavoursome dish. + Katsu don portions big enough to sustain pre-exam cramming - A chilly space in the winter months

44 Candlemaker Row, Old Town (Map 2A: C4, 49) 0131 220 5000, tangsgohan. com | £26 (lunch) / £26 (dinner)

VIETNAMESE

Tang’s

✱ Vietnam House Restaurant 1–3 Grove Street, West End (Map 4: B2, 74) 0131 228 3383, vietnamhouse.co.uk | £14.25 (dinner)

For new openings Go to list.co.uk/food

Here’s one of those hot-tip, secret restaurants that’s so consistently thrumming with happy clientele you realise it’s on the verge of not being a secret any more. With thatched-grass ceiling providing a Vietnamese hut vibe, gorgeous paintings on the wall and vibrant wallpaper, to step into Vietnam House is like, well, stepping

Sodaeng KOREAN 94 Buccleuch Street, Southside (Map 3C: D1, 12) 0131 629 1190 | Closed Sun | £10.50 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Sodaeng has sort of gained a bit of a lastpicked reputation, being something of a shy kid next to it’s noisier neighbours on the Far Eastern hotspot that is Buccleuch Street. It’s not necessarily deserved though, and what it might lack in atmosphere (it’s pared-down interior doesn’t exactly buzz with life) it more than makes up for in its light and vibrant food. Bibimbap here is choc full of fragrant herbs, slivers of beef and delicious, crisp, golden-needle fungus; and there’s the lovely snap of Chinese cabbage in the aromatic, anise-infused pork bone broth. Pretty much everything, from crackly fried squid to slippery rice noodles, sings with freshness, and a meal leaves you feeling lively even if you order too much and can’t help but eat it all (a genuine risk).There’s no license, but there is a sensible £1.50 per person BYOB policy (why doesn’t everywhere do that?), and if you forget to go to the offy, they do import a delicious selection of teas; try the toasty barley Bori Cha. + Crunchy, lively, fresh food - Not much spark in the service

✱ Sushiya JAPANESE 19 Dalry Road, West End (Map 4: B3, 63) 0131 313 3222, sushiya.co.uk | Closed Mon | £14 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Saiko Kitchen: breezy, funky joint serving vibrant pan-Asian street foods

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into an extremely welcoming house. And a brilliantly catered one at that: fresh spring rolls burst with mint, prawn and veg, and elicit groans of pleasure when dipped into a peanut sauce edging towards decadence with its caramel overtones. Pho comes fortifying and in every variety you could hope for. Braised catfish is so tender it falls apart on the fork, and smacks of ginger, sesame and stickily sweet shallot. Braised chicken drumsticks yield just as readily, making for a mouthful of rich flesh, subtle coconut, and zesty lemongrass – a divine dish served atop a mountain of glutinous rice. For dessert, don’t pass on the lemon sorbet – cutely presented in a frozen lemon, the tart and creamily smooth pud cleanses the palate delectably. + Vibrant food in oh-so-cosy surrounds - If you’re after a beer, remember to bring your own

NEW Wee Buddha FUSION 2b Jamaica St, New Town (Map 1A: C3, 36) 0131 538 1215, fb.com/Wee-Buddhapub-kitchen-1890965537795581 | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Filling the gap left by Iglu, Wee Buddha opened its doors at the start of 2016. With more of an upcycle than a complete facelift, they have retained the original bar and brought modern touches through copper lighting and understated nods to the titular Buddha. The vibe is relaxed yet attentive with advice on offer to navigate the tightly curated selection of craft beers. An Asian theme runs throughout the food and cocktail list, which features ingredients such as lychees, sake and Szechuan pepper. The menu is succinct and the portions are generous. Haggis wontons are crunchy and, when matched with the hitachino nest rice beer, the hints of sake and berries complement and balance the intense filling. Crisp six-spice bean curd is perfectly seasoned with a subtle kick. Incredibly moreish, you could happily snack on these crisp cubes of tofu all evening. Wee Buddha already has a strong sense of self, a sort of grown-up pub that encourages you to stick around and enjoy yourself. + A proper grown-up bar - Selection of larger dishes limited

Yes Sushi JAPANESE 89 Hanover Street, New Town (Map 1A: D4, 90) 0131 220 1887, yessushi.co.uk | £9.90 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Freshly steamed complexions beam, as families and friends gather around bubbling cauldrons to enjoy the Japanese equivalent of a fondue evening. The sukiyaki (hotpot) attracts a loyal following, thanks to the generous portions and convivial atmosphere in this bustling city centre restaurant. The à la carte presents a wide range of cooked and raw options. Ebi gyoza are light parcels of crunchy chestnuts with chunks of juicy prawn. Perfectly crisp, the dumplings are accompanied by a fiery dipping sauce and provide a hearty start to the meal. The yakimono beef skewers, are less successful – the beef a little bland from a lack of marinating time. Teriyaki eel comes engulfed in an unctuous, molasses-rich sauce atop a bed of well-seasoned rice and delivers a filling main. Miso soup is warming and stocky, and, given the name above the door, it would be rude to ignore the large selection of sushi on offer. The maxi tuna roll is spicy, swathed in malleable seaweed, and just like the Cadbury’s Eclair advert of old, contains a secret tuna surprise hidden within. + Buzzy atmosphere - Service a little hit and miss when busy

FISH In recent years, many of Edinburgh’s dedicated fish and seafood venues have been lost to menu diversification and the current trend for all things burger and steak – that’s not all bad news, as diners can increasingly find decent, wellsourced fish and seafood across a wide variety of restaurants and food styles. The venues that have resisted this change and stuck with fish and seafood as their focal point continue to maintain a high standard, offering something from the sea for everyone, from individual oysters by the shuck to elegant fine dining, from solid surf-andturf to beach shack and street food experiences. Reviewer: Stan Blackley

Barnacles & Bones Cathedral Lane, New Town See Cafés: Wee Places

C-Shack 3 Pier Place, Newhaven, Leith (Map 5A: A2, off) 0131 467 8628, cshack.co.uk | No Kids (under 5) | Closed Mon | £21 (lunch) / £25.50 (dinner)

Slightly hidden opposite Newhaven harbour, C-Shack is a dinky waterfront eatery with a cool beach-hut vibe. Its pale blue and plain wood décor make the small space feel open and uncluttered, while the compact menu contains three short-and-simple sections featuring fish, seafood and surf-andturf. These are complemented by blackboards featuring daily-changing market specials and a clutch of desserts that are worth leaving room for. The food here is unfussy yet well presented, showcasing C-crowd satisfiers such as mussels, prawns, haddock, sea bass and monkfish, as well as crab and lobster sourced from directly across the road. It’s hard not to like this place and what it does, despite a slight lack of attention to detail at times. Tempura should be super crisp, and smoked salmon would benefit from being served with a wedge of lemon, but the charm and warmth of the place makes these little things easily forgivable and forgettable. See if you can get down to C-Shack, as it makes an enjoyable and worthwhile trip to the seaside for those who prefer scallops in their shells to sand in their shoes. + Charming seafood shack that keeps things simple - Lack of attention to detail at times

Ecco Vino 19 Cockburn Street, Old Town See Bars & Pubs

✱ Fishers in Leith 1 The Shore, Leith (Map 5A: C1, 10) 0131 554 5666, fishersbistros.co.uk | £15 (set lunch) / £24.50 (dinner)

Fishers in Leith is the smaller, more mature sister to the bigger, brasher Fishers in the City, and she’s all the more attractive for it. Laid out over two unusually shaped, dark woodlined rooms in the ground floor of a 17th-century watchtower on Leith waterfront, this classy older sibling has been producing reliably good fish and seafood since 1991 and shows no sign of changing her ways. À la carte starters of skate wings and salt cod brandade are satisfyingly salty, just how food from the sea should be, while mains of coley

and gurnard in bouillabaisse and Loch Etive sea trout are full of fishy flavour. The Fishers Favourites menu features time-honoured, tried-and-tested crowdpleasers such as oysters and mussels, fish soup and fishcakes, seafood platters and steaks, while veggie diners are well catered for with their own menu. With an extensive wine list, a good value set lunch deal, and some seriously satiating desserts, old lady Fisher offers up something to satisfy everyone. When seafood is this gratifying, it’s hard to pass up. + Good seafood served with understated style - It’s difficult to leave!

Fishers in the City 58 Thistle Street, New Town (Map 1A: D4, 80) 0131 225 5109, fishersrestaurantgroup.co.uk | £14 (set lunch) / £27 (dinner)

Fishers in the City has gained a loyal clientele over the last 15 years through its winning formula of simplicity and reliability. It’s ‘Fishers Favourites’ menu contains crowd-pleasing seafood staples such as mussels, fish soup, fish cakes and fish and chips, while the à la carte menu offers an opportunity to push the boat out a bit more, with pan-fried cod, whole lemon sole, ovenroasted sea bass and sharing platters of hot shellfish and paella. This place exudes a quiet confidence, but there are hints of complacency from the kitchen, with ‘hand-cut chips with lemon and rosemary salt cooked in beef dripping’ arriving at the table tasting almost as bland as caterpack freezer fries. Some of the more unusual dishes shine though, such as red winepoached halibut – the jus adding a pleasing purple exterior and unexpected meatiness to the fish. With a separate vegetarian menu, decent lunch and pretheatre deals and plenty of wines by the glass, Fishers in the City won’t be changing its formula any time soon, so it’s really up to how you interpret what it does – utterly dependable or a little bit dull? + When it ain’t broke, don’t fix it - Things can become boring when they never change

✱ HITLIST

FISH ✱ Fishers in Leith Longestablished, reliable and unashamedly fishy eatery serving serious seafood in waterfront Leith. ✱ The Mussel and Steak Bar Characterful Old Town eatery where you should expect to eat some of the best surf-and-turf in town. ✱ The Mussel and Steak Bar 110 West Bow, Grassmarket, Old Town (Map 2A: B3, 43) 0131 225 5028, musselandsteakbar.com | £10.95 (set lunch) / £27 (dinner)

When an eatery’s name contains particular foods, it’s a safe bet that you should eat those foods when you go there. The Mussel and Steak Bar is a prime example. Despite being perfectly positioned to catch the tourist trade, the owners have avoided the temptation to become yet another churn’em-through Grassmarket pitstop. Instead, they’ve

NEW Kilted Lobster 112 St Stephen Street, Stockbridge (Map 1A: C2, 21) 0131 220 6677, kiltedlobster.com | £23 (dinner)

A 2015 arrival at the quieter end of St Stephen Street in Stockbridge, Kilted Lobster is an example of a breed seldom seen these days: a simple, few-frills seafood bistro with nautical motifs and fishy artwork against a Mediterranean-blue colour scheme. Open seven days for dinner as well as weekend lunches, a relatively short menu mixes chowder, turbot or crab risotto options with pigeon breast, confit belly pork or gluten-free gnocchi. Lobster (‘kilt’ in the uncompromising Glaswegian vernacular of owner-chef Colin Hinds), comes as a half or whole with caramelised green beans and confit sweet potatoes, with Fridays heralding a £1 glass of champagne deal with the dish. The restaurant is also a venue for Hinds’ social enterprise project, Cooking Up a Storm, which sees complimentary meals served to Edinburgh families and individuals facing food poverty and isolation issues, as well as kitchen training opportunities for disadvantaged youngsters. [Not recently visited.]

The King’s Wark 36 The Shore, Leith See Bars & Pubs

Passionate about Seafood 61-65 Rose Street Edinburgh EH2 2NH Reservations 0131 225 5979 157 Hope Street Glasgow G2 2UQ Reservations 0141 572 1405

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created a welcoming and relaxed dining space out of a small and unusually shaped, two-floor Old Town shopfront, which specialises in quality, Scottish surf and turf. You’ll find exactly what you expect here – kilo pots of mussels steamed in four different sauces and chargrilled, 38-day-matured rump, ribeye, sirloin, fillet and T-bone steaks. However, the menu goes well beyond this, offering scallops and salmon, haggis and ham hock and satisfyingly stodgy desserts. The changing daily ‘specials’ also manage to live up to their name. With an extensive drinks list and an excellent fixed-price lunch deal, this often-busy, bustling space provides some of the best eating to be had in the Grassmarket area. + It’s great when places live up to the promise of their names - Can feel a little packed-in when it’s busy

Mussel Inn 61–65 Rose Street, New Town (Map 1A: C5, 62) 0131 225 5979, mussel-inn.com | £7.95 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

This popular Rose Street restaurant has been packing in and feeding hungry punters since 1998. Popular with office workers, shoppers and especially tourists, its menu features a range of straightforward seafood options, such as scallops, sea bass, oysters, prawns, shellfish pasta and surf and turf, as well as changing daily specials. But the stars of the show here are the eponymous mussels, sourced from Shetland and the west coast. Grab them steamed or grilled by the kilo or half kilo with a variety of sauces, from traditional white wine, shallots and cream, to more exotic Moroccan chilli, garlic, ginger, coriander and cumin. The Mussel Inn has hit onto a winning formula, as is evidenced by the crowds of fingerlicking diners, so this isn’t the place to come for a slow or quiet meal. But with good value set lunch and pre-theatre menus, plenty of outdoor seats in the summer months, and everything else you’d expect from an efficient, crowdpleasing, city-centre eatery, the Mussel Inn shows no sign of slowing down or changing what it does anytime soon. + Eat the mussels: the clue is in the name - Not the place for a leisurely treat

Ondine 2 George IV Bridge, Old Town (Map 2A: C3, 23) 0131 226 1888, ondinerestaurant.co.uk | Closed Sun |

£21.95 (set lunch) / £42 (dinner)

Ondine’s classy, low-ceilinged interior nicely combines corporate crispness with casual comfort. Deep colours, dark wood and dim lighting create a deluxe but dignified feel in which to eat from a well-balanced, if slightly predictable, menu of fish and shellfish, which is prepared simply yet with considerable style. A chunky fillet of pan-fried Cornish sea bass is flaky to the fork, seared Isle of Mull scallops shine, served in their shells, while a bowl of grilled Tarbert langoustines is marvellously multisensory and satisfyingly strenuous to eat, but would benefit from the probably-too-rustic inclusion of a finger bowl. The imaginative wine list contains some unusual options, non-fish-eaters are well catered for, and the friendly, efficient team makes the whole enterprise seem effortless. Eating here isn’t cheap, but fresh fish and fine seafood of this quality are increasingly hard to come by, so it feels like a special treat. Talking of which, check out the ‘oyster happy hour’ from 5.30–6.30pm Monday–Friday, when the bivalves go budget and are great value at only £1 a shuck. + Fresh fish and shellfish prepared simply, yet with considerable style - Eating here isn’t cheap, so it may only be for a special treat

FRENCH Edinburgh’s long history of excellent French restaurants is well documented. There are homely bistros to be found in tucked into the city’s nooks and closes, while at the other end of the spectrum a handful of Michelin-starred thoroughbreds exhibit a distinct French influence. The cuisine here can be at once familiar and exciting: from a comforting bowl of fish soup with all the trimmings, to indulgent confit duck and robust cassoulet – not to mention an unreconstructed tarte tatin or crème brûlée – it’s all to be found on French menus around the city. We’ll help you navigate straight to the places that serve the best. Reviewers: Claire Ritchie, Justin Tilbury

Bar à Vin 17 Queensferry Street, West End See Bars & Pubs

Bia Bistrot 19 Colinton Road, Southside See Bistros & Brasseries

The Ship on the Shore 24–26 The Shore, Leith (Map 5A: C1, 12) 0131 555 0409, theshipontheshore. co.uk | £22 (lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Tempting though the outside picnic tables are (and you’ll have to fight for them on a sunny evening), the interior of this long-standing favourite shouldn’t be missed. The dark wood-panelled interior, brightened with wall-lining nautical charts and ephemera, unequivocally says ‘seafood’. This all-day eatery places a heavy emphasis on shellfish and hearty eating, be it kedgeree in the morning or a selection of grilled and pan-fried fish and shellfish throughout the day. Crustaceans, served both hot and cold, as starters or lavish platters, have their own menu, but juicy fish deftly batterfried, and abundant mussels, in balance with their wine bath, hold their own (at a significantly lower price). Puddings complete the indulgence – cheesecake and crème brûlée hold the mainstay position, while a trio of desserts are perfect for two diners or the indecisive. [Not recently visited.]

✱ Bistro Provence 88 Commercial Street, Leith (Map 5A: B1, 2) 0131 344 4295, bistroprovence. co.uk | Closed Mon | £12.95 (set lunch) / £22.50 (set dinner)

A little piece of Leith that is forever Provence, this small but ambitious bistro is bringing some Gallic sunshine to Commercial Quay, where sprigs of lavender and carefully curated bric-abrac combat the polished homogeneity of these converted bond warehouses. Michael Fons, who is both proprietor and lead chef, is a man of boundless enthusiasm and passion. His attention to detail shines through in the food which, while strongly influenced by the country-cooking style of Provence, is created with an exactitude and flair that is far from one-note. A canapé of bleu d’Auvergne and walnut on an Arran oatcake is a complementary blend of Scottish ingredients and French panache, while starters include a chunky, herby terrine with a sharp spike of saltiness delivered by a judicious scattering of capers and a hit of sweetness from a red onion confit. Mains offer a homemade Toulouse sausage with a mountain of cloudy mash or a crisp-skinned and richly gamey guinea fowl. Finish with a delicately rich raspberry frangipane or a buttery slice of bitter chocolate tart with salted caramel ice-cream. + Incredible value for money - Can be a bit chilly

NEW Brasserie Les Amis 83 Morrison Street, West End (Map 4: C2, 48) 0131 228 7517, brasserielesamis.co.uk | Closed Sun | £14.95 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

Kilted Lobster (page 69): seafood bistro with a social conscience

Brasserie Les Amis feels instinctively a lot more French than it has any right to, given its location. It’s a classy, accomplished proposition – clean lines, white tablecloths, playful use of mirrors to combat the limited space and an alluring deli counter. There’s none of the fabled Parisian aloofness here: the welcome is warm and friendly, the staff incredibly attentive and nothing is too much trouble. Dishes look the part too. A (perhaps slightly anonymous) lamb cutlet arrives on a disc of lentils, the

✱ HITLIST

FRENCH ✱ Bistro Provence Ignore the urban setting, this is rich, robust, country cooking prepared with care, creativity and heart. ✱ L’Escargot Blanc Restaurant & Wine Bar Superb Scottish produce meets French style in one of the most welcoming dining rooms in town. The Auld Alliance in its purest form. ✱ The Pompadour by Galvin Luxurious inside, incredible views outside, and a richly varied, expertly curated gourmet experience. ✱ Restaurant Martin Wishart Still at the top of their game, Martin Wishart and team calmly and confidently set the bar for all newcomers. ✱ 21212 Imagination, creativity and showmanship are to the fore at Paul Kitching’s Michelin-starred restaurant with rooms.

whole lifted by a judicious drizzle of sharp, herby port jus. Brie and asparagus quiche is a rich blend of buttery pastry and soft cheesy filling countered by a sweet/sour red onion marmalade. Of the mains, onglet steak is compact but deliciously lean and accompanied by a lightly dressed salad that almost outshines the crisp, thick fries. Finish things off with a rhubarb crumble – served on a wide, flat dish, this is a delicate balance of caramelised and sugary crunch and tangy fruit. + Well curated and very reasonably priced wine list - Very tempting to overdo it on the baguette

Café Cassis Salisbury Hotel, Salisbury Road, Southside See Bistros & Brasseries

Café Marlayne 13 Antigua Street, New Town (Map 1B: D5, 42) 0131 558 8244, cafemarlayne. com | £17 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

A casual glance at its modest vestibule, would suggest that this is little more than a café. However, further in there’s a sudden opening out into the warm heart of the restaurant. Also, despite its presence in a row of restaurants that specialise in cheap and quick meals for Playhouse patrons, Café Marlayne offers something counterintuitive and unique: a bold menu. Impressive in its range and depth, it suggests a place determined to do a small number of things extremely well. And so it proves. A starter combining smoked mackerel with pears and a Szechuan peppercorn dressing sets the bar high – an unlikely

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l’escargot bleu & blanc -YLUJO [^PZ[ \ZPUN [OL ILZ[ VM :JV[SHUK HUK [OL ÄULZ[ Scottish seasonal larder from top quality local suppliers 56 Broughton Street Edinburgh EH1 3SA 0131 557 1600 www.lescargotbleu.co.uk

17 Queensferry Street Edinburgh EH2 4QW 0131 226 1890 www.lescargotblanc.co.uk

@Lescargot_B

E N J OY T H E V E RY B E S T O F

F RE N C H & S C OT T I S H C U I SINE BOOK ON LIN E AT:

Tudor House 9 Randolph Place Edinburgh Tel: 0131 225 8678 www.laptitefolie.co.uk

9 Randolph Place. Tel 0131 538 1815. www.ledivin.co.uk

Virginie, the owner regularly visits Ethiopia and supports 800 orphans with a feeding program info@laptitefolie.co.uk | info@ledivin.co.uk

WE LOOK FORWARD TO WELCOMING YOU We are a privately owned restaurant with a passion for sourcing top quality local ingredients to bring you inspired menus and classic cuisine; all served in the relaxed environment of our restaurant. Our wine list offers a carefully chosen selection of French wines. Directly opposite the Edinburgh International Conference Centre, our customers have appreciated the design and conviviality of the restaurant itself while delighting in the delicious food and wines offered; all served by our friendly staff. 83 MORRISON STREET, EDINBURGH 0131 228 7517 (OPPOSITE THE EICC)

11 BRUNTSFIELD PLACE, EDINBURGH, EH10 4HN

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TABLE Talk

but finely judged combination of textures. Of the main courses, juicy, charred lamb rump with crisp, vanilla-braised chicory is paired with a sharp, herby and garlicky sorrel pesto that cuts right through the richness of the meat. Alternatively, a ribeye steak is accompanied by sweet onions, a softly fiery horseradish sauce and salt-baked walnuts providing a crunchy, buttery counterpoint. We’re back in café land for dessert, but the clementine cake is a citrussy delight. + Busy and bustling even on weekdays - All this excellence doesn’t come cheap

planning ahead for. A salted caramel tart is a memorable, soft, endorphin-releasing chocolate truffle, seeded with crunchy salt flakes and atop a rich, caramel and light flaky base. And then, of course, there are the crêpes – freshly made and deliciously sweet – you’ll be glad there’s some soft seating nearby to collapse onto. + Transforms into a very romantic dinner location - Uncoordinated service can lead to repetitive questions and some delays on a busy day

Castle Terrace Café Marlayne 76 Thistle Street, New Town (Map 1A: C4, 72) 0131 226 2230, cafemarlayne.com | £10.50 (set lunch) / £19.50 (dinner)

JACO JUSTICE ON LETTING FOOD AND DRINK CLIENTS BECOME STORYTELLERS I’ve worked across a broad range of Scottish cultural and arts projects but it was originally interior architecture I studied, before spending my twenties immersed in design-led career paths that still shape my work’s outlook and approach. From designing flyers for late-90s clubland to screen-printing T-shirts for Barcelona skateboarders, it’s about breathing it all fully in and complete absorption for me. I can still distinctly recall the bobbly, woollen fabric of modular couches I encountered in French Novotels on family holidays. Now many of those styles are on-trend and used by food and drink peers without understanding the pedigree. It makes me hungry to keep moving forward, research deeper and work outwith the shadow of pastiche. At Jaco & Co., we pride ourselves on helping clients become storytellers, from a business’s birth in a simple logo and tone of voice to cohesive interior architecture that speaks that language. That means having the contact book to either commission a sculptor to make a space come alive or a graffiti artist to detail the table edges. My arts experience, be it providing exhibition spaces for fashion designers such as Pam Hogg, concert settings for conceptual music artists like Actress, or hosting major festival events, allows me to now approach each project with the flamboyance of Cecil Beaton coupled with the precision of Donald Judd. ■ Jaco Justice is owner and creative director of Jaco & Co., specialists in commercial interiors, brand identity and art direction. jaco.co

On this cobbled side street parallel to the establishment and old money of George Street, Cafe Marlayne brings a bit of a bohemian vibe to the table in the heart of town. Low ceilinged, with chandeliers, exotic jungle-themed wallpaper and an inviting – if intimate – confusion of tables, it’s a speakeasy kind of a restaurant. Thai fishcakes kick things off with judicious spiciness, their lemongrass-fragranced succulence accompanied by sweet mango; or alternatively, a warm salad of caramelised figs offsets its sweetness with the creamy sharpness of goat’s cheese and orange. The main courses pale a little by comparison, but a standout is the cod fillet, which finds a delicate marriage with a light pistachio and pine nut crust. Desserts offer up an exemplary crème brûlée that is an exemplar of the form – all sweet creaminess and brittle, chewy caramelisation – and a deliciously rich, buttery and salty sticky toffee pudding that will send you stumbling off home over the cobbles with a slightly dazed feeling of contentment. + Very reasonably priced for its location - Get there early – it fills up fast in the evening

33–35 Castle Terrace, West End See Scottish

Chez Jules 109 Hanover Street, New Town (Map 1A: D4, 93) 0131 226 6992, chezjulesbistro. com | £7.90 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Café St Honoré

In a world of hipster culture full of fake authenticity, Chez Jules comes across as the real thing, not an imitation. This candlelit cellar with its red gingham table cloths is properly French – there are no ersatz old booze adverts; instead there’s the handwritten story of someone’s Uncle Jules on the wall, alongside a map of France helpfully annotated with domaines of the wines on the mostly French list. The menu covers the spectrum of classics, from escargots, frog’s legs, and steak tartare to confit de canard, steak-frîtes, and saucissons. Generous portions of salad, charcuterie and baskets of bread are presented free of charge on arrival. Chocolate mousse or crème brûlée should see you right for dessert – or there’s a French cheese plate if you want to do things properly. This place is unreconstructed but it’s all the better for it. The cheap-as-frîtes lunch menu might be the thing that first draws people in, but the friendly hospitality and honest cooking are also worth a mention. + Classic French food in a fun setting - You might miss some of the action if you’re tucked away in a corner

34 North West Thistle Street Lane, New Town See Scottish

✱ L’Escargot Blanc Restaurant & Wine Bar

Café Tartine 72 Commercial Quay, Leith (Map 5A: C1, 4) 0131 554 2588, cafetartine.co.uk | £20 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

This is the place to be on a sunny afternoon – light streams in through the windows, and the low-ceilinged, whitewalled room feels like a breath of fresh air. Sofas are mixed in with sturdy, rustic tables, and an open crêperie means you can start contemplating dessert from arrival. The emphasis is on relaxed, good time dining. A starter of broccoli and rosemary soup is wholesome and mildly medicinal while also rich and soothing. Still hungry? Try one of the café’s substantial and impressive burgers. Alternatively, the caesar salad is an exemplary expression of the form, with light, crisp lettuce, chicken slightly caught around the edges, crunchy croutons and sharp, salty anchovies. Come dessert you may regret that burger – these are worth

Brill Breakfasts? Check out our Tiplists on pages 9–11 Find Tiplists on other topics throughout the guide and online

17 Queensferry Street, West End (Map 4: B1, 11) 0131 226 1890, lescargotblanc. co.uk | Closed Sun | £11.90 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

Cosy candlelit tables, old-style posters for classic movies and French liqueurs lining the walls, the impressive roomtemperature cheese board on display for all to admire – this place ticks all the boxes for a relaxed dinner. Especially if you bag a window table with a great friend and watch the world pass by below. There has been a well-regarded French bistro on this spot for many years, the latest of which – open since 2009 – is the little sister of Broughton Street’s Bleu. Provenance and sourceability are watch words here: the produce is proudly Scottish with few exceptions: rabbit from France, and snails too when the Barra ones are in hibernation. The hearty food covers all the French bistro classics – fish soup, tartiflette, cassoulet, and sausages all feature heavily. Nice touches like complimentary amuse-bouches and petit fours with coffee – even with the cracking value set dinner – are an unexpected treat, and the addition of a wine bar at street level adds much to the restaurant’s appeal, providing both a warm welcome and an informal spot for an aperitif or plate of charcuterie at any time of day. + Reliably excellent cooking in an elegant and charming atmosphere - It’s incredibly easy to eat until you hurt

£12.90 (set dinner)

This much-revered bistro in Broughton Street serves two functions: on one hand it’s home to true French cooking, produced with obvious passion and soul; and on the other, it’s a supplier of excellent Scottish produce, sourced with pride and dedication by owner and local food hero Fred Berkmiller. Although the surroundings feel slightly more rustic than its elegant West End sibling, the menu is similar and serves all the expected Gallic classics with a slight Caledonian slant. So you get Isle of Lewis mussels served ‘Cullen skink style’ with smoked haddock, or a duo of Borders roe deer and pigeon. Provenance is writ large in l’Escargot: it’s now well known that the snails come from the tiny Scottish island of Barra (as far as possible), and you’re as likely to find North Ronaldsay mutton on the menu as you are confit duck and French cheese. Desserts are along the classic lines of crème brûlée or prunes in Armagnac – but it won’t take much to be persuaded instead into a spot of fromage, from a cheeseboard that’s temptingly laid out in full view of this charming restaurant. + Fantastic fromage - Unsurprisingly, not much for vegetarians here

Galvin Brasserie de Luxe Caledonian Hotel, Princes Street, West End See Bistros & Brasseries

La Garrigue 31 Jeffrey Street, Old Town (Map 2B: B2, 1) 0131 557 3032, lagarrigue.co.uk | £14.50 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)

The string of award plates on the wall and certificates in the window are testament to this highly regarded restaurant’s popularity. An Old Town favourite since 2001, La Garrigue has stayed fast where other much younger venues have fallen by the wayside. At the helm has always been the steady hand of Jean Michel Gauffre – surely one of the most affable restaurateurs in Edinburgh. Having tried his hand at other venues in Leith and the New Town in recent years, Gauffre seems content to stick with the original these days. He may have taken a small step back from the day-to-day running of the restaurant, but he’s still very much behind La Garrigue’s identity and popularity. Known for his knowledge of and passion for the Languedoc region of France, Gauffre now escorts wine tours over there once a month. La Garrigue’s menu is a showcase of Languedoc cuisine – with staples like fish soup, cassoulet, roquefort soufflé, and saucisson, it’s familiar and comforting French food, rich and filling but not presented without finesse. Many people will be defeated long before dessert, but it’s worth keeping room for some of the beautifully made patisserie, such as choux buns filled with Nutella cream or lavender crème anglaise. + A comprehensive tour of Languedoc food and wine - When it’s quiet, you can hear the fridges hum – music would help

Henri of Edinburgh 48 Raeburn Place, Stockbridge, Stockbridge See Cafés

The Honours 58a North Castle Street, New Town See Bistros & Brasseries

Hotel du Vin Bistro 11 Bristo Place, Old Town See Bistros & Brasseries

L’Escargot Bleu 56 Broughton Street, New Town (Map 1B: C4, 20) 0131 557 1600, lescargotbleu. co.uk | Closed Sun | £12.90 (set lunch) /

The Kitchin 78 Commercial Quay, Leith See Scottish

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chestnut purée, a beautiful melody of gamey meat and honeyed sweetness. Desserts offer a tarte tatin that is a pitchperfect expression of the dish, with soft, buttery apples and a flaky, caramelised pastry. + Dig online to find discount vouchers that take the sting out of the bill - Delicious as it is, why only serve the tatin for two?

✱ Restaurant Martin Wishart 54 The Shore, Leith (Map 5A: C2, 17) 0131 553 3557, restaurantmartinwishart. co.uk | Closed Sun/Mon | £28.50 (set lunch) / £80 (set dinner)

Bar à Vin: the ground floor of L’Escargot Blanc reconfigured as a high-end stop for wine, cheese and charcuterie

Maison Bleue 36–38 Victoria Street, Old Town (Map 2A: B3, 29) 0131 226 1900 • NEW 370–371 Morningside Road, Southside (Map 3B: A4, 6) maisonbleuerestaurant.com | £9.90 (set lunch) / £26 (dinner)

A modest frontage belies the labyrinthine interior within as Maison Bleue weaves its blend of French and North African magic over several floors in this Old Town venue. The main door opens on to a bar area with comfortably louche furnishings that encourage you to stretch out and relax, so much so you may have to bite your tongue to avoid calling out for a hookah. Led by incredibly attentive staff to your table, through the dark wood surrounds and artfully mismatched furnishings, you’ll find your table crisp of linen and quickly topped with some fresh bread and a jug of water. Open with breewats à la Marocaine – a spicy take on spanakopita, crisp and filled with goat’s cheese and spinach and matched with a tart harissa paste. Of the mains, the brochettes of chicken fresh from the chargrill are a smoky, succulent feast, but are outshone by a deeply aromatic and richly spiced merguez, all accompanied by ratatouille and couscous. Of the desserts, the sticky toffee pudding is a suitably disreputable but charming finish. Finally, news just in – this landmark restaurant is stretching its legs, with a second branch – dubbed Maison Bleue Le Bistrot – planned to open in Morningside in early summer.. + Genuinely charming and idiosyncratic use of this Old Town venue - Nice as the bar is, the cocktails are on the expensive side

Le Marché Français 9a West Maitland Street, West End (Map 4: B2, 67) 0131 221 1894 | Closed Sun | £6.95 (set lunch) / £14.50 (dinner)

Step out of Haymarket station, cross the road and enter the bright red frontage of this friendly neighbourhood bakery, deli, shop and café. Operating since 1998, Le Marché has a bit of everything for the Francophile. Shelves are lined with an interesting range of French wines, while a simple daily menu features classics such as slowly casseroled confit de canard and roast potatoes, or beef bourguignon for lunch or weekend

supper. The baked treats make having a sweet course tempting, be it the éclair au chocolat, filled with chocolate cream, the crème brûlée or, alternatively, the homemade crêpe maison with Grand Marnier, chocolate sauce or honey and lemon. While service is friendly, the venue has a slightly worn-in feeling and would benefit from a general refresh. + French classics on the menu - Could use a bit of sprucing up

Petit Paris 38–40 Grassmarket, Old Town (Map 2A: A3, 38) 0131 226 2442, petitparisrestaurant.co.uk | No Kids (under 5) | £12.90 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Petit by name, petit by nature – this tiny Grassmarket bistro is phenomenally popular, especially when warm sunny days make outdoor dining a pleasure rather than a chore. Inside there are just 48 covers spread over two floors, with simple table settings, modest furnishings and a large blackboard detailing the day’s specials. The food is classically French, offering few surprises but then none are really necessary. You could start with snails, or perhaps fish soup with garlic rouille, cheese and croutons, or crayfish tails immersed in garlic butter – with excellent French bread for dipping, of course. Move on to Toulouse sausage with mash and a creamy mustard sauce, possibly a steak with peppery wedges, or the fish of the day. There’s also a Mediterranean veg and goat’s cheese pie for the non-meat lovers. Desserts are familiar and comforting – vanillaspeckled crème brûlée, crêpe with Nutella or a mixed fruit tart – and there’s fromage too, bien sûr. Nothing much has changed here since the restaurant opened almost 20 years ago, and the crowds of visiting tourists and loyal locals are testament that nothing needs to. Petit Paris is rustic and simple and French to its core. Magnifique! + Rustic simplicity at its best - Not always warm enough to take advantage of the outdoor tables

La P’tite Folie Tudor House, 9 Randolph Place, West End (Map 4: B1, 6) 0131 225 8678, laptitefolie.co.uk | Closed Sun | £12.50 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

For 13 years, La P’tite Folie has been

producing French menus with style and panache. Blessed with a marvellous dining room that continues to delight, its tall multi-paned windows lend the space a bright and airy atmosphere by day and reflect flickering candlelight by night. While maintaining a sense of French tradition, La P’tite Folie clearly has fun with its menu, playing with genres and featuring unusual options. To start, a salad of boudin blanc with haricot beans fricassée and red chard inverts standard expectations, while pan-fried tuna gets a slightly eastern feel with soya, garlic and honey. The more traditional roast breast of barbary duck sits contentedly on spiced chicory and beetroot, while panseared sea bream is perkily at home with fennel and lemon confit, wilted spinach and a tarragon dressing, extending the anise of the fennel. The wine list is particularly well-suited to the menu and, of course, La France factors heavily among the selection to great success. + One of the prettiest dining rooms in town - Not open on Sundays

✱ The Pompadour by Galvin Caledonian Hotel, Princes Street, West End (Map 4: B1, 21) 0131 222 8777, thepompadourbygalvin.com | Closed Sun/Mon | £29 (Fri only set lunch) / £47 (dinner)

After the dramatic sweeping staircase leading up to the Pompadour, the room itself is surprisingly modest in size. Delicately appointed in typically understated Victorian style, with delicate white cornicing and pale green walls, the room leaves the lion’s share of the heavy lifting to the spectacular views out over the castle and the Edinburgh skyline. Contemplate the view over an amuse-bouche of cheese and chorizo gougères, light, soft and exquisitely spiced alongside chicken liver pâté with a Sauternes jelly and parsnip crisp, an exact balance of rich, sweet and salty. Starters offer a crab lasagne that is creamy and luxurious enough to be a main in its own right, or a ballotine of foie gras which is generous to the point of overindulgence. Things really hit their stride with the main courses, the high point a breast of pheasant with roast parsnips and

Now entering its 17th year, Restaurant Martin Wishart is an institution on the Edinburgh fine dining scene. The vibe is one of consummate professionalism from the moment you step in through the narrow doorway off the cobbled street of the Shore. A judicious use of mirrors opens up the room while muted tan walls exude a calm assurance that verges on the anonymous. However, it does allow the food to shine, and there are stunning treats in store, especially if you take the plunge and try the six course tasting menu. An amuse-bouche of beetroot meringue with a horseradish cream filling detonates on the tongue in a controlled explosion of sweet and sharp and a brief blast of fire, while squid a la plancha is exquisitely juicy, smoky and rests on a warm reservoir of creamy rouille, lentils and Lomo de Bellota. Roast quail is pink, succulent and delicate, accompanied by a textured corn purée, and just outshone by a roast breast and crisp pastilla of duck. Desserts offer the polar opposites of sharp, sweet lemon bergamot crémeux or spiced, smooth Valrhona chocolate. + Still an entirely unique experience - Service is smooth, professional and thoughtful, but a little impersonal

✱ 21212 3 Royal Terrace, New Town (Map 5B: A6, 36) 0845 22 21212 or 0131 523 1030, 21212restaurant.co.uk | Closed Sun/ Mon | £22 (set lunch) / £49 (set dinner)

Since moving to Edinburgh in 2009, Paul Kitching has amused and bemused 21212’s customers in equal measure. For a start there’s the name, which comes from the number of options originally available for each course at dinner (although technically it should now be 31313). The chef’s creativity has won a host of accolades including the coveted Michelin star, and the restaurant with rooms has become one of the capital’s dining landmarks. But if there can be a sameness to many of the high-end restaurants in town, this place is genuinely different. On the surface, it might feel like the trappings are too ‘out there’, but once you get to the heart of the offer, it’s just great produce cooked really well, with a lot of imagination and flair. It’s certainly never boring. But the menu’s playfulness might need a bit of decoding. So here you get dishes called the likes of ‘ABC’ – asparagus beignet, chicken, crisp ‘salad cream’, ‘garlic 1,2’ and fresh romaine juice. Or perhaps ‘BBC’ – beef, beef corned, tender best fillet, Scottish roots on thyme, horseradish mayo and prune purée. There’s a tendency towards an excessive number of elements on the plate, but the extensive wine list is impressive, the staff are ebullient, and the food is both fun and delicious. It’s a winning combination, and it’s worth making the effort to understand it all. + High-end dining with a refreshing sense of humour - A bit of background music would be nice The List Eating & Drinking Guide 73

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INDIAN Edinburgh’s increasingly diverse selection of Indian restaurants ranges from basic cafeterias to upmarket bistros, with the best examples by no means restricted to the city centre. The overall trend for casual, small-plate dining has had an impact here, and the best places offer far more than the staples of rogan josh and tikka massala (tempting though they may be on a cold night). Venues increasingly reference Indian regional cooking and veggies and vegans are usually well catered for. It’s also worth noting some of the city’s best value set menu deals can be found here, often enhanced by the option to BYOB. Reviewers: Doug Bond, Courtney Hyde Peyton, Tara Klein, Caroline Rye

Agoon Pani 91 Henderson Street, Leith (Map 5A: C2, 22) 0131 553 3980, agoonpani.co.uk | Closed Mon | £20 (dinner)

With its large picture window, whitepainted wood and feature wall, Agoon Pani could pass itself off as the latest gentrified Leith bar. Refurbished in 2015, it’s actually one of the city’s newer Indian restaurants, one that takes in an unusually broad range of dishes from across the subcontinent, interestingly listed with their geographical origin. Kitchuri is the Bangladeshi variant of a widely made dish of gently spiced lentils, rice and egg. Seasoned with ghee, it’s a comforting, earthier version of its British offspring kedgeree. Similarly, appetisers such as delicately spiced hotpots or spiced onions with homemade ketchup make a pleasant alternative to the standard classics found elsewhere on the menu. Indeed, it’s a pity the rest of the menu doesn’t stray far from the ubiquitous bought-in desserts and Cobra beer. + Good choice of appetisers and mains - . . . not matched by desserts or drinks

Britannia Spice 150 Commercial Street, Ocean Drive, Leith (Map 5A: A2, 1) 0131 555 2255, britanniaspice.co.uk | £9.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

In the heart of Leith close to its naval near-namesake, Britannia Spice serves a wide range of Indian and South Asian cuisines. Housed in an old whisky bond warehouse, the nautical theme continues with uniformed waiting staff and décor featuring a ship’s wheel, rigging and brass finishes. The extensive menu covers dishes from Bangladesh, Northern India, Thailand and Nepal. Standard starters are all present and correct, but an onion bhajee of shredded onion and spices is a highlight, light and crisp but leaving room for the next course. Mains include a decent selection of vegetarian options including the vegetable sambar, well balanced and just the right shade of heat. Conveniently located near Ocean Terminal, it’s a handy spot after a day shopping or exploring the Shore area. Popular with locals, office workers and visitors, it’s size and choice mean it’s a good option for large parties. + Big menu with something for everyone - Large space may lack atmosphere for couples or lone diners

Kama Sutra 105–109 Lothian Road, West End (Map 4: C2, 41) 0131 229 7747, kamasutrarestaurants.com | £7.95 (set

lunch) / £18 (dinner)

In the middle of busy Lothian Road, Kama Sutra is a large, jolly venue serving up generous portions of Indian classics. While bigger groups make effective use of the generous dining area, smaller tables are not lost in the midst and staff work hard to look after every table. The menu is extensive but not overwhelming, differentiating Indian traditional cuisine from that of British influence but enjoying both. Starters are a particular success: pakoras of chicken, mixed vegetables or haggis are large and crispy in their chickpea batter. Sarsoon ka jingha, tandoored king prawns, have a spice kick which adds a bit of fire while not overpowering the sweet gentle flesh of the prawns. For veggie choices, dahl tarka marke, yellow lentils with cumin and asafoetida, is quiet and mild with an unexpected zest of lemon cutting through. Good sized chunks of paneer, firm but never rubbery, sit happily in their fenugreeked spinach bath. And of course you’ll find the traditional choices here too, in large portions and across the scale of mild to madness. + Starters are particularly tempting - Puddings could benefit from some homemade attention

Kebab Mahal 7 Nicolson Square, Old Town (Map 2A: D5, 78) 0131 667 5214, kebab-mahal. co.uk | £10.50 (lunch) / £10.50 (dinner)

Forget Kebab Mehal’s understated appearance, this is a venerable Edinburgh institution beloved by generations of locals, students and fans of simple Indian food. Trading for more than 35 years, the shopfront supports an active takeaway, glass cases displaying piles of pakoras and samosas, while tall doner kebab rotisseries dominate the wall behind. But step further inside and a clutch of Formica tables and counter areas host a busy turnover of committed fans. Sizzling hot, juicy mushrooms, chicken or fish coated in thin, crunchy batter make an excellent start, as do crisp, vegetable-filled samosa. Mains cover the bases. Mild chicken curry is a popular favourite, but the slightly spicy chicken tikka karahi is lighter and punchy. Lamb biryani with accompanying curry sauce is wetter than average but filled with tender meat. Nothing is fancy, but dishes are ample, well prepared and feel as though there’s family in the kitchen intent on nourishing their guests. If you’ve still room, a tender piece of honeyed, nutty baklava is just the ticket. + Simple food delivered with charm and kindness - Popularity may mean waiting for a table

Khushi’s 10 Antigua Street, New Town (Map 1B: D5, 41) 0131 558 1947, khushis.com | £13 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Despite the unfortunate loss of their Victoria Street restaurant to fire back in 2008, the resilient family team re-opened three years later in this, their sixth incarnation. At the top of Leith Walk, the large restaurant’s eclectic interior combines bentwood-style furniture and monochrome flooring with oriental lanterns, and luxurious turquoise and gold silk damasks. The menu reflects this, featuring old favourites like jalfrezi alongside more unusual offerings. To start, prawn kolhapuri delivers succulent marinated king prawns coated in a light crispy batter, with aromatic cumin and curry leaf. A main of home-style chicken curry is simple, yet satisfying, with roast cumin, onion and tomatoes. To help refresh the palette, there are the ever-popular lassis plus a few more interesting fruit-based concoctions. Edinburgh’s Indian scene has developed

Navadhanya: newcomer with a fresh and innovative take on Indian food

since Khushi’s first opened its doors nearly 60 years ago, but reliably tasty food, a bustling atmosphere and BYOB with no corkage explains its continued popularity. For those with special dietary requirements, there’s a full allergen list. + The unusual, enticing starters - Being so busy, service can be slightly abrupt

Mezbaan South Indian Restaurant 14/14a Brougham Street, Tollcross (Map 3A: C1, 4) 0131 229 5578, mezbaan.co.uk | £9 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Focusing on South Indian dishes with plenty of spice, Mezbaan could easily be missed among the many different international eateries dotted along this stretch of road in Tollcross. Inside, it’s a small but friendly neighbourhood restaurant with attentive service. The menu is varied, including pork and beef dishes that reflect the diverse cuisine of the region. Starters include the medu vada, a traditional doughnut of ground lentils and spices, served with rich sambar stew and coconut chutney, while the chilli beef is slow cooked and tender, with lots of smoky, chargrilled onions and peppers. The chicken wajid ali has plenty of flavour, rich but well balanced with the addition of fenugreek, coconut and poppy seeds, while cafriel lamb is coated in a fresh sauce of spinach and mint. Huge, light and crisp dosa pancakes are also an option for main courses or a cheap lunch. With generous portions and excellent cooking, Mezbaan is good value for something a bit different. + Great value local that doesn’t skimp on flavour - Steep stairs mean there’s no disabled WC

✱ Mintleaf 28 Bernard Street, Leith, Leith (Map 5A: D1, 13) 0131 555 5552, mintleafrestaurant.co.uk | £19 (dinner)

A large venue with high ceilings is made intimate by soft candlelight, oriental lanterns and an open fire, and adorned with luxurious deep reds, rich velvet and silk damasks. A kitchen with two head chefs delivers both Indian and Thai cuisine to equally high standards. Simple elegant white crockery alongside refined silverware accentuates the colourful dishes. A starter of sea bass tenga, delicately pan-fried fish with crispy caramelised skin, comes dressed in a

blanket of spicy sweet and sour sauce with a generous twist of lime. Tender lamb pieces in the gust korai are cooked in a rich sauce of well-balanced spices, with peppers and onions adding a touch of sweetness. The pla gaeng keow warn showcases a Thai green curry sauce freshly made with aromatic coriander. Pistachio kulfi is homemade: creamy and dense, with a scattering of crunchy pistachio pieces adding textural contrast. From start to finish, Mintleaf delivers fresh and delicate, yet robust, dishes across both Thai and Indian menus. + Execution and freshness of dishes - A double menu makes choosing hard

The Mosque Kitchen 31–33 Nicolson Square, Southside (Map 2A: D5, 74) 0131 667 4035, mosquekitchen.com | £10 (set lunch) / £6.50 (dinner)

The Mosque Kitchen is a no-frills establishment; a large canteen-style dining room, serving meat and vegetable curries, on paper plates with plastic cutlery, at low prices. Although basic, the curries are cooked fresh daily, served in generous portions, and are tasty and satisfying. The rice, cooked with massala spices, is fragrant and a popular choice with a simple curry sauce for £2.50. The humble tarka dhal, traditionally prepared lentils cooked with onion and garlic, is a standout dish. While lunchtime queues are common, quick counter service with ready-to-go food means waiting time is minimal. Clientele varies from students and tourists seeking budget meals to business people after a quick, satisfying lunch. At the weekend, downstairs opens up as an all-you-caneat buffet for £10, with proper cutlery and crockery. The curries are largely the same as on offer upstairs, with a salad bar adding slightly more choice. Special dietary requirements have been carefully considered. All dishes are cooked in olive oil, many are gluten and dairy-free, and vegans are spoilt for choice. + Great for special dietary requirements - Environmental impact of all that disposable tableware

✱ Mother India’s Café 3–5 Infirmary Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D4, 82) 0131 524 9801, motherindiascafeedinburgh.co.uk | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

When going for an Indian, it can be easy to revert to tried and tested dishes,

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overindulge, or leave with a doggy bag. But the tapas-style menu at Mother India’s Café allows you to start with a few smaller dishes and proceed from there. A range of lamb, chicken, fish and vegetable dishes are served quickly by friendly, unobtrusive staff while the café setting leads to an informal ambience where the food takes centre stage. Dishes taste clearly distinguishable: in the patina lamb, refreshing mint complements the heat from the spices, while the flavour of the tender lamb still comes through. A special of trout arrives wrapped in foil to reveal delicately cooked fish topped with aromatic lime and coriander, crisp skin and a subtle smokiness. It’s enticing – you could easily picture yourself working through the entire menu, experiencing different flavours on every plateful. Gets very busy at weekends. + The daily specials are truly special - Its popularity means it’s quite noisy

Namaste Kathmandu 17–19 Forrest Road, Old Town (Map 2A: C4, 57) 0131 220 2273, namastektm. co.uk | £7.25 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

In the student heartland of Forrest Road, Namaste Kathmandu showcases both Indian and Nepalese cuisine. Traditional Indian mainstays like dopiaza and aloo gobi are here but it’s the more interesting Nepalese dishes that are worth stopping by for, such as the lamb bheda tona, marinated overnight for extra succulence in yoghurt and herbs. Vegetarian options aren’t a footnote either; there’s a decent selection of mains and starters in both cuisines. The momo dumplings are fried but light and elegantly presented, and the tiny cones of spiced, cumin-flecked poppadums are perfect to enjoy alongside your BYOB. Ideal for an impromptu

dinner on the way home from town, it’s unpretentious but still different enough to feel a bit special. The downstairs private room offers space for larger groups. + Great service even when busy - Toilets could do with a bit of TLC

NEW Navadhanya 88 Haymarket Terrace, West End (Map 4: A3, 60) 0131 281 7187, navadhanyascotland.co.uk | Closed Mon | £9 (set lunch) / £26 (dinner)

Navadhanya, a newcomer to Edinburgh’s Indian restaurant scene aims for fine dining cuisine. The interior is sophisticated and contemporary, with a minimalist décor of contrasting creams and dark wood. Inspired by regional Indian dishes and making the most of Scotland’s larder, the menu offers a refreshing twist while retaining authentic flavours. Their innovative combinations are a far cry from the usual curryhouse offerings. Tandoori-grilled salmon to start delivers fish delicately marinated in paprika, roasted cumin, mustard and curry leaf, alongside a sweet mango sauce. A main of kali mirchi ka lobster, meaty chunks of lobster tail in a rich sauce of shallots, tomatoes and crushed red peppers is bold in heat, but without masking the flavours of the sea and spices. The high standard continues through to desserts, with homemade pistachio and mango kulfi providing a dense yet light, refreshing finish, while polite and courteous staff ensuring a memorable experience all round. + The refined, innovative dishes - A bit on the pricey side

NEW Nutan’s 42 Home Street, Tollcross (Map 3A: B1, 9) 07814 603938 | Closed Mon | £8.50

(lunch) / £8.50 (dinner)

It may be small but you can’t miss Nutan’s in the line of shops and cafes near the Cameo Cinema in Tollcross. Bold and bright both inside and out, this colourful eatery offers authentic, homecooked Indian food. The menu is short but good value, with starters focusing on pakora and samosas, the latter a generous pasty-sized version, full of spiced potato and chickpeas. The meat and veggie mains vary depending on daily specials but the chicken korma is especially good. Full of flavour and spice and cooked to a medium heat, it’s a world away from the traditional sweet, creamy and often bland versions on offer elsewhere. Ideal for a quick bite before the cinema or theatre, it’s also handy for a cheap takeaway on the way home on this side of town. + Good for impromptu but authentic cheap eats - A casual option that won’t be to everyone’s taste

Pataka 190 Causewayside, Southside (Map 3C: C4, 31) 0131 668 1167, patakarestaurant. co.uk | £16 (dinner)

Something of a Causewayside institution, Pataka celebrates a quarter of a century in business in 2016. Its Charles Rennie Mackintosh-inspired interior still feels light and modern, setting the scene for something slightly different than your average curry house. With a strong Bengali influence, the menu offers traditional favourites but the house specialities are where the real interest lies. A chicken puri starter, with lots of spices and coriander on puffed flatbread, is punchy and full of flavour, while the ghobi bora is deep-fried but light, allowing the cauliflower to shine through.

✱ HITLIST

INDIAN ✱ Mintleaf Delicate yet robust cooking, the Thai/Indian double menu will please those who can’t decide between the two cuisines. ✱ Mother India’s Café A tapasstyle menu of distinguishable and enticing dishes, in a relaxed and informal space. ✱ Spice Lounge Kitchen Revel in the unexpected: a superb meal with enormous attention to detail lies hidden in the hills of Corstorphine. ✱ Tanjore Delicious, affordable South Indian dishes with many vegan and gluten-free options. ✱ V Deep Fresh, adventurous Indian cooking in a revamped old boozer, served up with craft beers and a glitterball.

Take a culinary journey and discover the art of modern Indian dining. www.navadhanya-scotland.co.uk

Delivering an authentic Royal Indian dining experience to its patrons with impeccable courtesy and hospitality. Navadhanya, 88 Haymarket Terrace, Edinburgh, EH12 5LQ _ 01312817187 info@navadhanya-scotland.co.uk

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Tandoori murgh chicken, roasted and tender from the tandoor, shows a similar lightness of touch in the kitchen, with smart presentation to boot. The main restaurant is on the small side but a private dining room caters for large parties, or if you just fancy a takeaway for one, there’s a full menu and delivery. + Great neighbourhood restaurant - Pickle tray a little disappointing

Punjabi Junction 122–124 Leith Walk, Leith (Map 5B: A1, 4) 07865 895022, punjabijunction.org | Closed Sun. | £5 (set lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Community enterprise Sikh Sanjog set up Punjabi Junction on Leith Walk to help empower and inspire minority ethnic women in the community. The café offers a short but interesting menu including starters, curries and a thali option. Poppadums are light and crisp, with homemade pickles and chutneys. The methi chicken with fenugreek is a revelation, full of flavour and great value for lunch or an early dinner and there are daily vegetarian specials too. It’s worth leaving room for the taster plate of handmade Indian sweets to finish; all almond, cardamom and cinnamon goodness. Inside, it’s a basic but cheery set up, or you can enjoy at home with the option of takeaway via Deliveroo. The café is very much at the heart of what they do here, but Punjabi Junction also offers cookery courses, outside catering, volunteering and training. + Local gem benefitting the community - Early closing hours may limit its appeal

Rivage 126–130 Easter Road, Leith (Map 5B: C4, 41) 0131 661 6888 | Closed Tue | £15 (dinner)

A wee bit off Leith’s beaten track, Rivage’s unfussy, low-key façade could easily be missed. Inside, neutral walls, exposed brickwork and well-spaced dark-wood tables give centre stage to the tandoor – diners can see the chef in action and appreciate the pleasant aroma drifting through the restaurant. A varied, yet manageable, menu offers a good balance between vegetable, chicken, lamb and seafood dishes, though starters vary in standard. The kareli gosht, lamb shank in a spiced yoghurt sauce, falls off the bone, although the individual components of the dish don’t quite come together. The seafood mooli sees mixed shellfish and pieces of monkfish, cooked in a subtly spiced coconut sauce. While Rivage doesn’t hit all the high notes it remains popular thanks to friendly, yet unobtrusive staff, and reasonable prices. + Dishes neither oily nor salty - The quality and execution of the starters

Ronaq 10–12 Craigleith Road, Stockbridge (Map 1A: A1, off) 0131 332 3362, ronaqrestaurant.co.uk | £8 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Down in Craigleith, Ronaq is simple and modern from the outside, while inside all is bold and flamboyant: ornate silver wall hangings, cornicing and chandeliers against rich purples and blacks. The menu is fairly typical of a Western curry house, although the presentation of the dishes is a notch above. For those who can’t decide, the thali – four meat or vegetable dishes served with accompaniments – is a great choice. In particular, the vegetable dishes, while simple and familiar, standout. The saag dhal, well-spiced and full of flavour, proves that humble ingredients, when cooked well, are satisfying and delicious. Although the garlic chicken chilli balti, aside from extra garlic, is fairly undistinguishable from the Punjabi aloo gosht (lamb and potato), both deliver a good chilli kick. All in, it’s an enjoyable and relaxed experience with well-presented, tasty food – exactly what you want in a neighbourhood joint. + Warm and welcoming staff - Little differentiation in some dishes

✱ Spice Lounge Kitchen 1 Craigmount View, Corstorphine (Map 4: A3, off) 0131 476 9999, spiceloungekitchen.co.uk | £6.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

201 2, & 20 2013 14!

Amid the bungalows of suburban Corstorphine is not where you anticipate finding one of Edinburgh’s better Indian restaurants. So it’s a delight to discover what local residents have known for a while, and with a well-serviced bus stop and private parking attached, transport is not an issue. The open and spacious dining room does tend towards a rather enthusiastic pink, but, hey, embrace the moment and buy in. The food is wonderful, the staff eager to please and assist with any special requests. Starters are substantial. The preparation of each is given dedicated attention and care, so perhaps the plentiful meat or vegetable platters of tender fritters, puffy samosas and pakoras and moist kebabs, accompanied by distinctive and delicious homemade sauces, isn’t really an overindulgence. Succulent lamb shakuti from Goa is rich with coconut milk, heightened with Goan spices. Dreamy dhaba chicken is gently infused with fragrant cumin. Charming owner Jas Singh is justly proud of the high quality and scope Spice Lounge Kitchen delivers and his enthusiasm is as contagious as his food is addictive.

+ A menu worth exploring again and

again - Not being able to eat as much as you order

The Spice Pavilion 3a1 Dundas Street, New Town (Map 1A: D3, 37a) 0131 467 5506, thespicepavilion. co.uk | £9 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

The Spice Pavilion focuses on NorthWest Indian frontier-style cuisine. Minimalist décor of creams, red accent walls, wood, and exposed stonework, create a bright and fresh ambience within this basement restaurant. A large menu covers a lot of bases – a reduced offering of more distinct dishes would simplify choosing. To start, jingha pakora – deepfried king prawns in a golden, crispy, spiced batter with a trio of tasty dips. For mains, the chutney fish tikka triggers the senses before it even reaches the table, the aroma of the salmon fillet heralding its arrival on the sizzling plate. The fish, marinated and grilled in the tandoor with green chilli, fresh mint and a coconutbased chutney, is delicately cooked and flavoursome. On the vegetarian side, roast aubergine dopiaza offers chunky aubergine, steamed then roasted in the tandoor with peppers in a spicy, garlicky sauce. With fresh and well-executed food, great service, consideration for dietary requirements and a fantastic lunch deal, the Spice Pavilion is a strong option. + Three-course lunch for under £9 - Boring selection of bought-in desserts

✱ Tanjore 6–8 Clerk Street, Southside (Map 3C: D1, 7) 0131 478 6518, tanjore.co.uk | £8 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

This unassuming space, featuring terracotta and beige marble tiles and oriental wall hangings, feels more like a café than a restaurant. Despite bustling with conversation, it feels calm, relaxed and homely, with a pleasant aroma of herbs and spices. The South Indian menu lists an array of vegetarian dishes, many vegan and gluten-free. Rice and lentils are ground into batters to make typical South Indian delicacies like dosas and idlies. The massala dosai is a large, crispy, wafer-thin savoury crêpe, stuffed with seasoned potatoes, herbs and spices, and accompanied by a delicious trio of chutneys and a bowl of sambar. A hit. Be sure to leave room for dessert when the dosai features again, this time served warm with sweet banana, cinnamon and toffee sauce. For lunch, the thali, both vegetarian and non-vegetarian, brings several dishes to the table at once. Aside from the lovely food and atmosphere, Tanjore’s no corkage BYOB policy and fantastic value makes it a popular choice – booking is advised. + Some unusual choices you don’t see elsewhere - Décor is a little tired

10 to 10 In Delhi 67 Nicolson Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D5, 73) 0131629 1130, 10to10indelhi. co.uk | £5.95 (set lunch) / £8 (dinner)

With every surface festooned with colourful textiles, 10 to 10 in Delhi is a jewel box of casual neighbourhood dining. Warm and winsome staff somehow find room for the many diners awaiting a cosy table, including dedicated locals, hungry students and international visitors who have tracked down this charming curry house. Generous plates continually flow from the tiny kitchen. Roti rolls, filled with curry, offer a light but pleasing snack. Hungrier? Choose either chicken or chana massala, spilling over with chickpeas, luxuriating in a light, creamy curry sauce, popped up with coriander. The lamb shamb, full of slow-cooked lamb and bright tender peas,

is sheer comfort food. If you can’t make up your mind, the meat or vegetarian platters, for one or two, offer multiple bowls of curry, filled to the brim, joined by basmati rice or garlic naan. Cheesecake, flavoured with mango, may not seem typically Indian, but as little is typical here at 10 to 10, just roll with it – if you can find the room. + Absolutely charming dining room - Not great for larger groups

Tuk Tuk 1 Leven Street, Southside (Map 3A: B1, 14) 0131 228 3322, tuktukonline.com | £12 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

With Indian street food served tapasstyle, Tuk Tuk offers a welcome alternative to traditional Indian dining. A bright and bold menu of over 30 dishes brings this corner of Tollcross just that little bit closer to the sights and sounds of Bombay. Inside, it’s a stripped-back, modern interior with Bollywood posters on the wall and help-yourself cutlery in buckets. It’s difficult to be disappointed by dishes such as rich butter chicken served in cute copper pans, or gilafi lamb kebabs, light, herby and straight from the tandoor. With this sort of dining, there’s always the risk of ordering too much, having to juggle plates into position and ditching the wine cooler to free up space, but at Tuk Tuk it just adds to the convivial atmosphere. BYOB, lots of long tables and a slightly raucous feel make it a great venue for larger groups. + Modern take on Indian food - Can feel a bit cavernous on quiet nights

✱ V Deep 60 Henderson Street, Leith (Map 5A: C2, 25) 0131 563 5293, vdeep.co.uk | £10 (set lunch) / £17.50 (dinner)

‘Tearing, sharing and experimentation’ is the exhortation behind the menu at this revamped Leith boozer, with small plates, sides and lots of adventurous flavour combinations presented alongside a great range of craft beers. There are temptations all over the shop; coconut chutney for dipping your poppadoms, spicy South Indian chicken thighs smothered in tomato and ginger ketchup, rich, tomatoey butter chicken, mussels in a chilli and garlic butter sauce and a tender slow-braised pork shoulder with

TIPLIST FOR BUDGET DINING • China Red (Grindlay Street) Stylish new Chinese buffet with over 40 tempting dishes, offering great value. 63 • Los Cardos Tex-Mex takeaway food with a Scottish twist on Leith Walk, and the option to eat in or at a nearby bar. 83 • Maki & Ramen Bustling noodle joint offering steaming hot ramen and freshly made sushi at keen prices. 67 • The Mash Tun Unpretentious neighbourhood sports pub with good beer, good grub, and a good pub quiz. 30 • Pilgrim Eccentric interiors, cheap booze and weekend DJ’s gives Pilgrim a loyal student clientele. 32 • Tupiniquim Police box by the Meadows serving up 100% gluten-free crêpes with a sunny, healthy Brazilian spin. 88

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Relatively upmarket but unstuffy, Vinyasa feels more relaxed bistro than traditional curry house. Tasteful, contemporary décor and refined renditions of familiar dishes, served in restrained portion sizes, make for a restaurant better suited to date night than lads’ night out. Shatkora lamb combines Bangladeshi pickle with green chilli to create complex sour, pickle flavours and not just heat. The majority of the menu is comfortably familiar but the standard of cooking takes even basic dishes to another level. Pakora are noticeably crisper and less oily than those frequently found elsewhere, whilst tarka dhal is sensitively spiced, providing just enough lift to the earthy lentils. The forgettable desserts are the only low point but these can easily be skipped and are more than compensated for by the eager, upbeat service. There’s also a good-value lunch menu and it’s worth checking the website for frequent special offers. + Vibrant, fresh, well-executed classic dishes - Dull desserts

Voujon

V Deep: fresh, adventurous Indian cooking in a revamped old boozer

107 Newington Road, Southside (Map 3C: D3, 25) 0131 667 5046, voujonedinburgh.co.uk | £18 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

massala vinegar. A £10 daytime thali deal allows for a filling, colourful overview, or they do an excellent brunch menu of bacon and egg ‘Naanwhiches’, breakfast bhajees and a Full Indian with pork bhangras, massala baked beans and West Indian black pudding. Perhaps the neon flourishes and banter-filled menu won’t suit everyone, but that’s their loss. While they’re seeking solace elsewhere, the rest

The formal table settings and Villeroy & Boch cutlery at this neighbourhood restaurant create a surprisingly grand first impression. Not every dish that follows matches those raised expectations but there are some definite highlights. There’s a surprisingly diverse and good value wine list and a strong emphasis on fish and vegetarian dishes in keeping with its Bengali origins. Breads are a notable highlight with some of Edinburgh’s best naan breads coming from their clay

of us can fight over the glitterball booth and get munching on some of the best Indian food in the city. + Genuinely innovative, addictive food - Missing out on the Tuesday 2-for-1 deal

Vinyasa 34 St Marys Street, Old Town (Map 2B: B3, 23) 0131 556 6776, vinyasaedinburgh. co.uk | £8.50 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

indian flavour, indian style...

oven: fresh, not too dense and delicately smoky. Also noteworthy are the excellent value complete dinners at £32.95 (vegetarian) or £36.95 (non-vegetarian) for two people. Specify the level of spice you prefer, along with your likes/dislikes and the chef will put together a selection of starters and mains. This is a popular option among the tourist clientele from the nearby guest houses, as well as those seeking simple, good value. + Excellent breads - Not as fancy as first impression

Zest 15 North St Andrew Street, New Town (Map 1B: B5, 60) 0131 556 5028, zestrestaurant.co.uk | £7.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Tucked across the road from the National Portrait Gallery, Zest offers a modern take on Indian cooking with a focus on Bangladeshi cuisine. Inside, it’s light and airy with a contemporary and colourful feel. There are some reliable starters including chicken kebabs, marinated with spices, and sabzi pakora with a light and crisp coating. However, it’s the mains where Zest really excels; the green herb chicken is served with heaps of coriander and flavour, while the mutar saag is hot but balanced, allowing the chilli and spinach to come through. The poppadums and hot lime pickle are good too, and even better with a slim glass of cold beer as you browse the menu. Ideal for popping in after work or to take the load off your feet after a hard day’s shopping, this is a reliable city centre option if you fancy something different to the chains or tourist traps. + Above average Indian food in relaxed surroundings - No wheelchair access

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www.ronaqrestaurant.co.uk 10-12 Craigleith Road | Edinburgh | EH4 2DP

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There’s a long, proud history of Italian cuisine in Scotland. In Edinburgh, the marriage of Scottish and Italian produce and eager diners familiar with the best of Italian regional cuisine has led to a selfconfident, stylish strand of cooking emerging. As well as the comforting, accessible, familiarity required for nights when you just want a bowl of pasta and a red wine, there are also opportunities to push the boat out and experiment with subtle flavours, new ideas and fresher-than-fresh ingredients which are given room to shine. Reviewers: Rebecca Monks, Julie Morrice

Al Dente 139 Easter Road, Leith (Map 5B: C4, 43) 0131 652 1932, al-dente-restaurant. co.uk | Closed Sun | £10.50 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Al Dente does well to make a small space on Easter Road feel like a genuinely Italian eatery. There aren’t many bells and whistles here: the décor is plain and subdued and the food favours simple freshness over flashiness. ‘Al dente’ means ‘on the tooth’, and is most often used to describe the firm texture of perfectly cooked pasta. So as you’d expect, here the pasta is never pre-cooked. There is always a wide choice of specials to choose from, and while the à la carte has all of the staples you might expect (bruschetta, pasta, risotto), there are some interesting dishes on there too. The melanzane ripiene is a starter of deep-fried aubergine with mozzarella cheese, tomatoes, basil and garlic, while orata al sugo e olive nere is a sea bream fillet in tomato, basil and black olive sauce. There’s a solid and good-value early bird menu here (though the à la carte is also reasonably priced). Al Dente is the teeniest bit off the beaten track, but worth hunting down if you’re a fan of fresh, unfancified Italian cuisine. + Good blackboard specials - Small space

Amarone 13 St Andrew Square, New Town (Map 1B: A6, 55) 0131 523 1171, amaronerestaurant.co.uk | £14.95 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

If you like a large serving of glitz with your pizza then Amarone is your place. This vast zhooshed-up former bank building is all marble, mirrors and

leather, making a restaurant that feels spacious, elegant and comfortable. The cooking lives up to the ambience: well-presented, confident cuisine that tastes as good as it looks. The starter of carpaccio and rocket is a pretty plateful of translucent pink beef, tangy leaves and carpenter’s curls of delicious parmesan. Scallops wrapped in pancetta are paired with a sun-dried tomato and chilli sauce that pings with heat and sweetness. Vegetarians may feel a little unloved by the relative lack of choice but tortelloni with wild mushrooms and ricotta is lifted into a superior league with a lip-smacking white wine and truffle reduction. Puddings are not the high point here, but there’s affogato with a choice of liqueurs and respectable Italian standards such as tiramisu and panacotta. + Sense of style and great food - Can get busy and noisy at weekends

La Bruschetta 13 Clifton Terrace, Haymarket, West End (Map 4: A3, 65) 0131 467 7464, labruschetta.co.uk | Closed Sun/Mon | £14.95 (set lunch) / £21.95 (set dinner)

La Bruschetta is the very definition of old school, from its maroon décor to its leather-bound menus. It attracts healthy numbers of local regulars, and it’s easy to see why: this is the kind of place where the waiters know your name, your drink of choice and are happy to talk you through the menu, the wine list, or even your day. In keeping with the traditional feel, the food is classic and rustic: there are four choices of bruschetta to start (from a simple tomato, oregano, garlic and oil to all that plus Italian sausage, mozzarella and asparagus) while seafood features heavily for mains. Linguini al frutti di mare is particularly well done, while the taglioline al salmone is suitably decadent, cooked in a cream-brandy sauce with garlic, lemon and chilli. The set menu is available Tuesday to Saturday, and is good value if you’re after something simple and classic, from lasagne al forno to Italian omelette. It’s easy to see why people return to this old haunt: its old school charm is hard to beat. + Friendly local feel - Often booked up

Café Domenico

Cannonball Restaurant & Bar Cannonball House, 356 Castlehill, Royal Mile, Old Town See Scottish

Civerinos Italian Street Food & Pizza Slice Bar 5 Hunter Square, Old Town (Map 2A: D3, 91) 0131 220 0851, civerinos.com | £18 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Honest and laid-back, with excellent service and food as authentic as you’d find in Italy, Civerinos has a hipBrooklyn-pizza-joint vibe. And if pizza is your thing, this is the real deal. A choice of 11 are made to order, with a couple available by the (massive) slice. Snacks and starters include calamari, meatballs, zucchini fritters and polenta & rosemary chips, the latter two dishes served with a tomato sugo you’ll later obsess over how to recreate. Mint & chilli feta salad is flavoursome and fresh, while the meat & cheese platter is laden with traditional Italian produce (and the option to add a side of sugo which you’d be mad to ignore). Of course there’s a range of pasta dishes, among them a 12-hour slow-cooked beef ragu, and if you’re still hungry after that, the Italian zeppole hot donuts & cinnamon sugar served with whipped vanilla cream will put you right. Brilliant at any time of the day, but Civerinos really comes into its own at night: communal tables bustle with life and DJs play at weekends until the small hours. + Great ‘slow fast food’ and top service - Having to leave

✱ Contini Ristorante 103 George Street, New Town (Map 1A: B5, 57) 0131 225 1550, contini.com/ contini-ristorante | £12.50 (lunch) / £19 (dinner)

If it’s something of a challenge to reproduce the welcome of a local trattoria in a cavernous former banking hall, Victor and Carina Contini are the people to make it work. Tables are neatly filed among the vast corinthian columns and, while there’s not a lot of elbow room, the atmosphere is so relaxing, the staff so positive, the food so promptly and perfectly presented, that no-one worries. The menu changes monthly to reflect ingredients sourced from artisan producers in Scotland and Italy. Burrata – an ultra-creamy

mozzarella – is ambrosial, served with salty speck; fresh ravioli hold their spinach-and-ricotta filling perfectly in a luscious pool of butter, sage and caramelised almonds. Tagliata di manzo is a feast for the eyes as well as the stomach – steak sliced into revealing pink louvres under a lacy throw of rocket and parmesan – while grigliata di mare is a generous, high-quality plateful of fish and shellfish enlivened with chilli, garlic and lemon butter. Contini is also big at breakfast time, offering everything from traditional full Scottish to cutting-edge organic porridge with spinach and hazelnuts, not to mention killer scrambled eggs and faultless coffee. + Unique combination of style and warmth - More space between tables would be nice – get a booth!

✱ Cucina G&V Royal Mile Hotel, 1 George IV Bridge, Old Town (Map 2A: C3, 22) 0131 240 1666, quorvuscollection.com/ gandv-hotel-edinburgh | £15.95 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

If you like your Italian restaurants trattoria-style – all terracotta walls and spaghetti with meatballs – don’t go to Cucina. Here, the food is as modern and clean-cut as the space itself (it’s located in the oh-so-swanky G&V hotel), and every dish is an intricately designed adventure in contemporary Italian cooking. Starters of note include scallops with cauliflower panacotta and braised octopus salad, while mains include pan-fried guinea fowl and stone bass in saffron sauce. There’s also a small, but refined, selection of risotto and pasta. The food offers its own take on classic dishes: tagliatelle is served with pork ragù, not simply tomatoes or spinach; while venison comes with potato layer cake and black cabbage. And while the restaurant itself is almost intimidatingly well-designed, with interesting modern art prints lining the brightly coloured walls, the service is impeccable. From the second the maître d’ takes your coat at the door, to the moment the waiter drops off a heartshaped sweet treat with the bill, dining at Cucina is a stylish affair indeed. + Interesting dishes made from highquality ingredients - Can be a little pricey

30 Sandport Street, Leith (Map 5A: C2, 7) 0131 467 7266, cafedomenico.co.uk | Closed Sun | £10 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

With red gingham tablecloths and characterful service, you could be in an advert for pasta sauce at Café Domenico. The food is good and there’s plenty of it – starters are for sharing unless you have a serious appetite on you. Warm goat’s cheese, black pudding and fig salad is a great bowlful of flavour and texture, with sweet slices of beetroot and tangy rocket leaves adding to the mix. Seafood is a speciality with fabulous fish and shellfish coming from local supplier Welch’s. The specials board is the place to find the catch of the day, and linguine with king scallops, prawns and avocado is a satisfying foray into the deep – chunks of fresh seafood, creamy avocado and perfectly cooked pasta in a velvety sauce. The kitchen can be equally proud of its veal Milanese, a textbook compilation of moist, tender veal and a rough, crispy coat of breadcrumbs, partnered by an aromatic hillock of pappardelle with wild mushrooms and cream. If you can contemplate squeezing anything else in after all that, there’s affogato, sticky toffee pudding and banoffee pie. + Great fish, well cooked - The temptation to over-eat

Amarone: big, buzzing restaurant with some lively cooking

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Di Giorgio 1 Brandon Terrace, Canonmills See Cafés

Divino Enoteca 5 Merchant Street, Old Town (Map 2A: C3, 47) 0131 225 1770, divinoedinburgh.com | Closed Sun | £20 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

Just in case your Italian isn’t up to snuff, ‘Divino Enoteca’ translates as ‘divine wineshop’, which is fitting as this restaurant boasts an impressive wine list. But don’t bother asking for a bottle of house – it doesn’t exist. The staff – welltrained and it shows – will happily suggest a bottle to suit your taste (and budget, if you’re using ‘house’ as code for ‘cheap but nice’). Fittingly, the restaurant looks like an archetypal wine cellar: all oak floors and stone walls, with lovely leather chairs and well-placed candles making things feel homely. The menu offers a fairly standard selection of antipasti (the beef carpaccio with rocket, parmesan and truffle oil is a highlight), and diners can enjoy smaller-sized pasta to start. There isn’t a huge choice of pasta for mains section, but Divino does a good job with meat and fish: balsamic-glazed lamb rump and pan-fried pollock on braised fennel and brushed tomato are two highlights. The portions are filling and the food wellexecuted, but it can be pricey: don’t put your wine goggles on before you get your money’s worth. + Expansive wine list - Not much selection on the food menu

La Favorita 325–331 Leith Walk, Leith (Map 5B: A3, 15) 0131 554 2430, vittoriagroup.co.uk | £10 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

The original Leith Walk pizzeria, La Favorita continues to produce pizzas of great quality with a serving of superfriendly service on the side. The pizza menu is extensive, and includes several non-tomato ‘white’ options. Whatever your preference, they’re very good, with great bases and gluten-free options too. Starters feature calamari fritti which brings anchovies to the party along with squid, a combination that’ll have you craving for more. Most pasta dishes come as starters or mains, plus there are meat and fish mains to be found in among the carbs. The proof of the pudding is in the eating and La Favorita’s tiramisu is a must. The restaurant is especially popular with families and for good reason: children are welcomed with (literal) open arms and their kids’ menu features favourites including smoked salmon pasta with broccoli in a creamy sauce, of which you’ll feel compelled to taste several forkfuls (just to make extra sure it’s ok, you understand). + Great pizza and friendly welcoming service - Mains don’t always live up to pizza standard

Jamie’s Italian Assembly Rooms, 54 George Street, City Centre (Map 1A: D5, 69) 0131 202 5452, jamieoliver.com/italian | £12.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Jamie’s is to Italian restaurants what James Corden is to American primetime TV: a cocky English cultural-imposter who should be really annoying but is actually quite good. Ok, he’s done the time in Italy, he’s written the book and he can count Gennaro Contaldo among his mentors – and it’s this commitment to the cause that shows in the menu. Innovative ingredients sit among more traditional dishes; meat or vegetable sharing ‘planks’, ‘Italian Nachos’ (fried ravioli stuffed with cheese and served with a spicy tomato sauce), a crispy squid coated in such a delicious salty-peppery crunch that it could be served twice the size and still

leave you wanting more. Homemade pasta dishes include the classics, as well as a lemony crab spaghetti with capers, chilli and fennel; while other mains feature chicken cacciatore, turkey Milanese and harissa-spiced aubergine that must have popped over on holiday from North Africa. Among the desserts, drunken sour cherry frangipane is the star; and they mix up a very respectable espresso martini too. + Fresh ingredients, excellent dessert - Sizeable venue means service can be a little slow

La Locanda 61 Cockburn Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D2, 8) 0131 622 7447 | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

La Locanda is an intimate wee place – one of the smaller branches of the Crolla family tree, it has a capacity of just 20. Fortunately, the tables are well-spaced, and it never feels claustrophobic, staying just the right side of cosy. It’s a favourite with tourists, thanks to its prime location on Cockburn Street, but the service is friendly and welcoming. The relatively small menu is full of old staples: it’s all about easy Italian here, with the usual suspects of mozzarella salad to start and pasta for main, but that’s no bad thing. The chef clearly knows good Italian food, and the well-edited the menu reflects that. If you plan on visiting, go hungry: the portions are unapologetically large (three balls of mozzarella in a starter), and you’d be wise to save room for dessert, since the excellent ice cream is (naturally) from the Crollas too. + Great service - Small menu

✱ Locanda de Gusti 102 Dalry Road, West End (Map 4: A4, 58) 0131 346 8800, locandadegusti.com | Closed Sun | £12.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

You could trip over the fresh produce in Locanda de Gusti. There it is, proudly displayed just inside the door – boxes of gleaming aubergines, tomatoes and lemons, waiting to be whisked into the kitchen and transformed into dishes that retain all the freshness and flavour the raw ingredients promise. Chef-patron Rosario Sartore has gone back to basics at his Dalry Road trattoria with a daily-changing menu that majors on high quality Scottish meat and fish, and vegetables sourced from his native Campania. A starter of smoked mozzarella with tangy tomatoes and whole garlic cloves betrays its peasant origins with flavours as bracing as sunshine and sea air. A little futon of slow-cooked pork belly is feathery, meaty and melting, barbed with rosemary and served with a dish of crushed potato and chunks of fried courgette – no flourishes, just great food cooked with love. Pizza dough is made 24 hours ahead; bread is baked on the premises; everything tastes good and feels like it is doing you good. + Wonderful food in a lovely atmosphere - You have to book well ahead to get a table

is text-book unctuous. The specials board is brief and some of the main courses might hint at a lack of passion in the kitchen but a ravishing crème brûlée ticks all the flavour and texture boxes and service is genuinely conscientious. + Warm, relaxed atmosphere - Feeling that the kitchen might run on auto-pilot

✱ HITLIST

✱ Nonna’s Kitchen 45 Morningside Road, Southside (Map 3B: A2, 4) 0131 466 6767, nonnas-kitchen. co.uk | Closed Mon | £15 (lunch) / £25 (dinner)

Chic blond wood and clean architectural lines give Nonna’s corner restaurant a relaxing modern flavor. But scratch the surface and it has an old-fashioned Italian heart that is all red-checked and straw-basketed. Tradition, family and good ingredients are the foundations of this neighbourhood stalwart and thirdgeneration Gino Stornaiuolo is keeping the comfort food coming and the exuberant warmth intact. There is a menu del giorno, a well-conceived children’s menu, an extensive à la carte and a changing list of specials longer than most people’s memory – all of which underpins a genuine desire to give everyone food they will enjoy. For lightness, gnocchi may be made with ricotta instead of potato but the brimming, cheesy plateful is still as gently embracing as a squishy sofa. Seafood is carefully sourced and celebrated both in pasta dishes and in stand-alone splendour. Gamberoni are tender and tangy with baby tomatoes and shreds of chilli; and a luscious slab of halibut is served on a patchwork of rosemary-spiked, thinly sliced potato and seared Mediterranean vegetables. + Warm atmosphere and satisfying food - Book well in advance for weekends

ITALIAN ✱ Contini Ristorante Celebrating the Italian-Scottish tradition of great food and warm hospitality at this grand George Street room. ✱ Cucina Colourful, contemporary Italian restaurant, located within the G&V Hotel on the Royal Mile. ✱ Locanda de Gusti Dedication to the best ingredients and the joy of eating give this unassuming Italian restaurant a life-affirming flavour. ✱ Nonna’s Kitchen Family-run restaurant where an extensive menu and great ingredients means there’s always something delicious to eat. ✱ Origano Popular Leith Walk Italian decked out with rustic-chic furnishings where they really, really know their pizza.

Fresh Italian Food s Served with Love

Mia 96 Dalry Road, West End (Map 4: A4, 59) 0131 629 1750, mia-restaurant.co.uk | £8.95 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)

Airy and quietly stylish, Mia accommodates a lot of people in a large space divided by its central bar and kitchen. On the tables, antique shop side plates are prettily mismatched and the menu comes inside an original vintage album cover – think country-and-western compilations to Elton John classics. As menus go, it’s a long-player – all the usual Italian staples are there alongside some more imaginative combinations. Scallops with creamy white cannellini beans is a winner and the melanzane alla parmigiana

OW ROW IN A RO RS IN YEAR 4 YE

45 MORNINGSIDE ROAD EDINBURGH EH10 4AZ

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Two fantastic locations, same delicious dining.

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All your Italian favourites served in style!

113 Brunswick Street 19 George IV Bridge (0131) 225 1740

325-331 Leith Walk Edinburgh (0131) 554 243

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9 Baxters Place Edinburgh (0131) 557 9998

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Halfway down the hill between the surge of George Street and the bustle of Stockbridge, it’s easy to overlook but has a loyal following among local residents in the evening and office workers at lunchtime. The menu includes Italian standards alongside dishes inspired by good Scottish ingredients, so rack of lamb and fish and chips sidle up to penne puttanesca and pizza quattro formaggi. The wine list is short but filled with good value quaffable vino. The starter of warm, creamy black pudding in a pillowcase of silky parma ham is a well-judged mixture of mouth-filling flavours and the duck breast with jammy cherry compote is roasted to yielding perfection and served with good garlicky veg. Risotto marinara is robust and generous with the shellfish, but perhaps a little lacking in finesse. Puddings are carefully executed if the exquisite panacotta is anything to go by. + Freshly prepared, good-quality cooking - Beyond pizza, not much to excite vegetarians

Polentoni 38 Easter Road, Leith See Cafés

NEW Rigatoni’s by the King’s Rigatoni’s by the King’s: cool, sleek Tollcross newcomer

NEW Novapizza Vegetarian Kitchen 42 Howe Street, New Town (Map 1A: C3, ) 0131 237 5695, novapizza.wix.com/ novapizza | Closed Tue | £6 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

This 2015 arrival is proving a boon to Edinburgh’s veggie diners and a handy option for snacks, takeaway and easy evening meals on the route between the New Town and Stockbridge. Attractively priced and generously topped pizza is the mainstay, with a handful of pasta dishes, bruschetta and a specials board broadening the choice. Sold in 12-inch rounds or by the slice, with toppings including four cheese with mushroom, Norma (tomato, aubergine and ricotta) or veggie pepperoni, the pizzas are properly fired and crispy, while calzoni also arrive puffing steam and just charred on the edges. There’s a vegan menu, a wine list limited to a couple of bottled beers and £10 wine and a couple of dessert choices including vegan and gluten-free ice-cream. Décor in the narrow, 20-cover restaurant is off-theshelf Italian with back-street scenes of old Rome and red-checked tablecloths. + Fresh, filling pizza - Power-pesto

✱ Origano • 236 Leith Walk, Leith (Map 5B: A3, 6) 0131 554 6539, origano-leith.co.uk | £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner) • 277 Leith Walk, Leith (takeaway & delivery only) (Map 5B: A3, 10) 0131 555 1009

It can be hard to make antipasti seem interesting and original, but Origano manages it. Sure, their sharing platters are all meats and breads (as you would expect), but they are made of highquality, flavoursome ingredients. The breads are infused with rosemary and garlic, and there is a wide selection of cured meats, from Parma ham to salami. Other starters include salads and garlic bread, but it’s clear where their specialities lie. And speaking of specialities: the pizza here is something of local legend. With three size options to choose from, there’s something for every stomach and there’s a good range of toppings to boot – everything from

your classic Margarita to something a little more special (they aren’t afraid to bring out the truffle oil). The restaurant can be a little crowded, and you will need to book in advance, but there’s a reason for that: it just might be the best pizza this side of Leith Walk. + Excellent pizza - Not much space

Osteria Del Tempo Perso 208 Bruntsfield Place, Southside (Map 3A: A4, 40) 0131 221 1777, osteriadeltempoperso.co.uk | £10.50 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

When in Bruntsfield, do as the Romans do. With a sister restaurant just south of Rome, this eatery prides itself on authenticity; wine and selected ingredients are sourced directly from producers in Italy. So is the vintage bike displayed on the wall – it’s (apparently) a symbol for ‘everything that’s good’. Diners are offered a glass of prosecco upon being seated, which is a nice touch if you want to wet your whistle as you wait (and wait you will – everything is cooked to order). Antipasti is encouraged to start while an excellent selection of homemade pasta makes up the bulk of the main course options. There are some interesting Italian takes on Scottish seafood and beef (the sea bass with lemon and tarragon and bistecca di manzo are most intriguing). The dessert selection is made up of simple, well-executed staples, with panacotta and ice-cream leading the charge. This dining experience is all about traditional dishes done well, and is meant to be savoured. As such, the menu starts with a reminder not to rush – after all, ‘osteria del tempo perso’ means ‘inn of lost time’. + Authentic Italian ingredients - Portions are a little large

30–32 Leven Street, Tollcross (Map 3A: C2, 19) 0131 228 6694, rigatonis.co.uk | Closed Mon | £9.95 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

Entering the low-lit, cool, sleek interior of Rigatoni’s by the King’s, you’re met with songs of Italian crooners over the stereo. The younger sibling to the well-loved Rigatoni’s by the Queen’s (Hall), this new Italian entry to Tollcross hits many of the right notes with neatly priced weekday lunch and pre-theatre menus and an evening menu that combines traditional favourites with a touch of invention. To start, hefty gamberoni piccante, vermillion in their wine, tomato and chilli-doused shells, might be slightly messy work but worth it. Spaghetti con vongole, laden with delicate little clams nestled in white shells, are sea briny fresh. Yes, there’s good pizza to be found but also succulent veal scallopine blanketed in a creamy sauce thick with mushrooms. Branzino all’ acqua pazza practically engulfs its plate, its fillet of pan-fried sea bass vying with langoustine, prawns, mussels and clams for space and attention. Daily-made panacotta, tiramisu and cheesecake rewards cleanplate club finalists. + Beautifully executed dishes fill the menu - Daily-made tiramisu goes quickly

TIPLIST FOR PIZZA • Civerinos Italian Street Food & Pizza Slice Bar Hip restaurant doing Italian street food that’s the real deal. 78 • Di Giorgio Smart, family-run deli/café adding a modern twist to traditional homemade Italian favourites. 52 • Dough Cute wee pick-up, sit-in or delivery pizza shop with a wood-ﬁred oven and a great range of toppings. 60 • La Favorita Neighbourhood family restaurant offering top pizza, Italian favourites and great hospitality. 79 • Origano Popular Leith Walk Italian, decked out in rustic-chic furnishings, where they really, really know their pizza. 81 • Söderberg Pizza at the Bakery Söderberg’s sourdough pizza serves up a slice of Swedish delights. 58

Sasso 100 Lindsay Rd, Leith (Map 5A: A2, off) 0131 552 2111, sassoedinburgh.com | Closed Mon | £22 (lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Named for Abruzzo’s famous Gran Sasso mountains, this pleasant spot does feel slightly like a mountain chalet, with a lengthy bar area blending into a main dining room, accented with a mountainous mural and an inglenook fireplace. But what really stands out is the people. Ernesto warmly welcomes each guest, clearly wishing to make newcomers feel part of the family. Despite only opening in March 2016, there is already a feeling of a soon-tobe-favourite local around the place, while the menu also brings a smile. Homemade gnocchi with gorgonzola and radicchio is piled glistening high on the plate. The popular linguine ai fruitti di mare crowds mussels, clams, prawns and calamari into a sauce of cherry tomato with a chilli edge. Crisp pizza abounds, or try a more substantial main such as the venison loin with vanilla celeriac. Crowd-pleasingly traditional Italian puddings complete a jolly meal. + A welcoming destination for friends and family of all ages - Saving enough room for pudding

Papavero 18 Howe Street, New Town (Map 1A: C3, 35) 0131 225 8204, papavero-restaurant. co.uk | Closed Mon | £8.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Papavero means ‘poppy’ in Italian and this welcoming little restaurant does poke its head above the crowded field of run-of-the-mill pizza and pasta joints.

11 BRUNTSFIELD PLACE, EDINBURGH, EH10 4HN

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EDINBURGH

Taste of Italy

It’s been a Leith institution since it opened in 1970 and, unlike its more touristfocused sister restaurant on George IV Bridge, Vittoria has managed to hang onto its ‘friendly local eatery’ vibe over the years. The à la carte menu has a strong selection of traditional Italian foods to choose from, with antipasti like insalata caprese to bruschetta to start, and pizza, pasta and risotto for main. The pasta options are particularly strong – the penne dello chef is a well-flavoured combination of chicken and smoked salmon, the rigatoni alla siciliana is cooked in a sauce of tomato, capers, olives, aubergines and peppers, and lasagne lovers are well catered for, with a stellar veggie option to go alongside the traditional lasagne di mamma. The pizza menu is expansive, though there is nothing particularly special or unique here. If you’re after a good quality Italian with no frills, bells or whistles, this is the place to go: dependable and classic. + Extensive menu - Toilets are quite a trek away

9 Baxter’s Place, New Town (Map 1B: D5, 43) 0131 557 9998, vittoriagroup.co.uk | £8.50 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Just a hop, skip and a jump away from the Playhouse, Taste of Italy is ideal for a quick bite that will sustain you way past any thoughts of interval refreshment. Generous portions begin with starters of rice-filled, cheese-oozing arancini or a full round of focaccia with heaps of parmesan shavings and rocket before getting onto the mains. Pizza and pasta are the staples, with margherita, primavera or a meaty twist on mac’n’cheese sitting alongside the less predictable, such as chef’s favourite tagliatelle, with its lashings of spicy sausage, or gnocchi with bacon and leeks in goat’s cheese sauce. Although there’s no choice of pizza base – it’s more soft and doughy than thin and crispy -– there are plenty of toppings to choose from, either as listed or of your own creation. For burger-lovers, there are six set variations or, again, you can self-select. Tempting gelato sundaes are a speciality, using the restaurant’s own creamy, Madagascan vanilla ice-cream recipe in partnership with fresh fruits and decadently sweet decorations. + No bookings means quick turnaround of tables - Only three wines to choose from

NEW WildManWood Pizza 27–29 Marshall Street, Southside (Map 2A: D5, 76a)

NEW Tutto Matto 16 Nicolson Street, Southside (Map 2B: A4, 16) 0131 557 5246, tuttomatto.co.uk | £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

From a suitably modern, spacious shopfront in the Southside of Edinburgh, Tutto Matto wants to take you ‘round the world in 22 pizzas’ – a feat which is accomplished well through an ambitious, wide-reaching menu. Some of the more classic pizzas here are named after Italian cities (the Milano has salami and mozzarella, the Salcissia has spicy sausage and chilli paste), and these work as a solid, familiar base on an inventive menu which features some unusual choices. The Amalfi, for example, has white pizza sauce with scampi, squid and crab, while the Marrakech has cumin and cinnamoninfused tomato sauce with spiced merguez sausage, herbed goat’s cheese and chillis. Of course, the Edinburgh has a good helping of haggis, ye ken? It’s a bold menu, but they pull it off well, with goodquality ingredients (all pizza sauce is made from San Marzano region tomatoes). If pizza isn’t your thing, there’s a fairly standard burger and pasta selection, though you’d be missing out on the pull of this place: good quality pizza that dares to experiment beyond the traditional. + Interesting pizza options - Starters aren’t very inspired

Valvona & Crolla Caffè Bar 19 Elm Row, Leith Walk, New Town See Cafés

Valvona & Crolla Ristorante 11 Multrees Walk, New Town (Map 1B: B5, 59) 0131 557 0088, valvonacrolla.co.uk | £20 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

At the end of the glitzy wind tunnel that is Multrees Walk stands the bustling Valvona & Crolla VinCaffè. At the back of the caffè, a staircase leads up to a slightly spartan dining room where serious but simple Italian cooking makes its way onto the plates of a regular clientele. A sharing plate of verdure misti is a voyage around lovely ingredients presented without fuss – roasted red peppers, lemonspiked courgette, crisp chicory, yielding squash and crunchy polenta chips. Pasta goes beyond the usual suspects with pappardelle balanced prettily on top of a fulsome beef ragù. A Puglian lamb stew is rich and melting and cleverly served

Nonna’s Kitchen (page 79): big-hearted family-run restaurant

with crispy swords of focaccia. There is a monthly regional menu which wends its way around the map of Italy to hit the highs of seasonal produce and there is an emphasis on slow food and organic ingredients. Evening dining can be a little Marie Celêste-like as shoppers and workers disappear but there are plans to liven things up with special food events. + Skilfully conceived dishes, excellent choice of wines by the glass - A bit lifeless in the evening

Veritas Vino Ristorante 18–24 Deanhaugh Street, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B2, 14) 0131 315 2860, veritasedinburgh.com | Closed Mon | £23 (lunch) / £23 (dinner)

Often mentioned in ‘best places to live’ lists, Stockbridge is home to a growing number of quality restaurants. Contributing to this undoubted attraction of the area is Veritas, a cosy and welcoming basement Italian which is a cut above the usual neighbourhood dining spot. Managed by lead chef, Gabriele Dianetti from Rome (a protégé of predecessor Riccardo Verrecchia) Veritas serves solidly Italian-kitchen homecooking, with much of the food sourced on the doorstep. Fresh fish (Dover sole, but could just as easily be swordfish or calamari) is picked up every morning from Armstrong’s, just along the road, and falls off the bone perfectly, skillfully flavoured with white wine, lemon and capers. A tagliere of meats, grilled vegetables and cheeses is ample for two, while other typical dishes include a fulsome stew of cannellini beans and leeks or Italian sausage with roast potatoes.

+ Unpretentious yet very good cooking - A bit too dark to read the menu

Vittoria (George IV Bridge) 19 George IV Bridge, Old Town (Map 2A: C3, 46) 0131 225 1740, vittoriarestaurant. com | £11.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

What do Leith Walk and George IV Bridge have in common? They are both home to a Vittoria restaurant. Unlike its East Side sister, the Old Town establishment feels like a bit of a tourist trap, something that is reflected in its ambience: there is nothing in the way of local charm here, but if you want a good view of a historic Auld Reekie street as you pick at your olives, this is the place for you. That said, the service is professional and polished from the start, and all staff are well versed in everything from the wine list to the specials board. The menu is notably large, with a good selection of everything that comes to mind when you think Italian (pizza, pasta and risotto: the big three). Notable dishes include linguine alla pescatora, which combines fresh pasta with chilli tomatoes, mixed seafood and shellfish, and the fresh filled pasta of the day. The pizza menu is extensive, with over 20 varieties to choose from (including a deluxe range for when you want something more than a margherita). This is the place to go for clear-cut, by-the-book Italian food; no quirks, no surprises. + Large menu selection - Not very atmospheric

Vittoria (Leith Walk) 113 Brunswick Street, Leith Walk (Map 5B: A4, 22) 0131 556 6171, vittoriarestaurant. com | £11.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

ONLINE LISTINGS For full opening hours, further details on facilities, individual location maps plus web and social media links, go to

list.co.uk/food

Malcolm Innes’ Edinburgh’s eateries, including the Apartment, the Outsider and Ting Thai Caravan, have always been noteworthy affairs, so odds are his latest project will be worth checking out sooner rather than later. Located in the former Olive Tree on the corner of Marshall Street, the interior of the building has been almost entirely rebuilt. Fitted with a custom-designed wood-burning oven, fired by beech and oak chips, it is capable of temperatures approaching 600ºC and staff spent a month in Naples training at the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana (where they finished top of the class). Other plans include a heated sun-trap terrace and beer, wine and prosecco on tap. While pizza will be mainstay, the menu is shaping up to be an all-day offering from breakfast through to late dining, with brunch items, grilled dishes and salads all available too. [Not open for a full review at time of going to press – check list.co.uk/food for updates.]

Zucca 15–17 Grindlay Street, West End (Map 4: C1, 34) 0131 221 9323, zuccarestaurant. co.uk | Closed Sun/Mon (except performance days) | £11.95 (set lunch) / £15.95 (set dinner)

Zucca knows how to get the most out of its location. Next to the Lyceum theatre, this restaurant is popular with pre-theatre diners looking for a quick bite, and that’s exactly what it offers. The menu is fixed, with a small but solid selection of starters, mains and desserts. The service is smart and speedy: you’re no sooner in the door than you can be out and back on your way to see whatever panto, play or performance you’ve got lined up. That said, thought has gone into the menu. While Italian staples such as bruschetta and mushroom risotto do feature, there are also some more unusual dishes which can make dining here a memorable affair, rather than a place to stave off hunger until the interval. Notable starters include marinated swordfish loin with a fennel, orange and pomegranate salad and pig’s head terrine with plum and apple chutney. For mains, the chef ticks all the boxes of Italian regional cuisine, one area at a time: fettucini, gnocchi, risotto. The ribeye of beef is served with a generous amount of olive oil, but remember to order a side, or it’s meat and nothing but meat. + Fast, friendly service - No à la carte menu

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MEXICAN

In association with

EDINBURGH

MEXICAN It’s a game of two halves, as the man once said. Edinburgh’s Mexican restaurants can be split into the pleasingly familiar, dedicated to the art of folding, filling, frying and baking tortillas around your choice of fillings, accompanied by a jug of Margarita and a party atmosphere; and a new wave of small, street-food focused places which have the soft taco, the bespoke cocktail and punchy hot flavours at their heart. Either way, you’re assured of a good time – this is easy, fun food, best enjoyed with friends, with a beer, with an empty belly. Reviewers: Emma Louise McGettrick, Murray Robertson

NEW Barburrito • 119 Lothian Road, West End (Map 4: C2, 42) 0131 228 8269 • 6 Shandwick Place, West End (Map 4: B1, 17) 0131 226 4289, pintomexican. com | £7.70 (dinner)

Formerly Pinto Mexican Kitchen, the two Edinburgh branches of this fun, fast and friendly Mexican burrito bar were taken over by Barburrito towards the end of 2015. The focus remains on street food that is fresh, quick and easy to order. Everything is prepared in front of you by amiable and enthusiastic staff. On offer are quesadillas, tacos, nachos and burritos (with or without tortilla), with a choice of fillings from grilled halal chicken, pulled pork, grilled steak, spicy shredded beef or vegetarian. Add to that your choice of vegetable toppings and salsa which ranges from a mild pico de gallo to the extra hot ‘mule kick’r’. Crisp tacos come stuffed with chicken, all the trimmings and finely grated cheese, and a slightly under-toasted quesadilla is fit to burst with succulent pulled pork. Although primarily a takeaway and delivery restaurant, there’s plenty of space to sit and there’s a small selection of alcoholic drinks on offer, including the obligatory Corona with lime wedge. + Fast, friendly service - The napkins are tiny

The Basement Bar and Restaurant 10–12A Broughton Street, New Town (Map 1B: C5, 32) 0131 557 0097, basement-bar-edinburgh.co.uk | £18 (dinner)

The Basement has been a popular fixture in the New Town since the mid-90s. Its centrally positioned bar delineates the restaurant from the hustle of the main pub area and, despite its subterranean location, the Basement is a warm and inviting venue. Connoisseurs of Mexico’s famous liquor have 19 tequilas to choose from, and anyone averse to a slammer can try a tequila cocktail instead. Starters are generously portioned and ideal for sharing, not least the totopos, a mountain of corn chips adorned with Monterey Jack cheese and jalapeños. For mains, it’s probably best to stick with traditional Mexican fare, and vegetarians are well looked after with copious alternatives to chicken, beef and steak. The burrito is more tightly packed than a budget airline traveller, while portions of the crispy pork belly are less generous. For dessert, avocado ice cream is a surprisingly refreshing accompaniment to the chocolate and chilli brownies. + Generous portions of traditional Mexican dishes

- When it’s busy, service can be very

slow

The Blue Parrot Cantina 49 St Stephen Street, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B2, 22) 0131 225 2941, blueparrotcantina.co.uk | Closed Mon/ Tue | £16 (dinner)

After 23 years tucked away in a basement on St Stephen Street in Stockbridge, it’s no wonder that the Blue Parrot Cantina has accrued such a loyal band of local supporters. From the rustic and stripped back décor to the traditional menu, the mantra of ‘if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it’ rings true. Expect a charming but cheeky welcome from the open kitchen and an attentive but relaxed service style. The dimly lit blue and terracotta space, and the trip back outside to the bathrooms, all add to the charm and appeal of this cantina. While much of the menu offers up Tex-Mex favourites, with the usual suspects of quesadillas, nachos and burritos, there are also unexpected discoveries, notably the pescado baja, a fresh haddock fillet in a jalapeno and coriander sauce, sealed under a lime breadcrumb topping. Margaritas, mojitos and boozy desserts laced with Kahlua and tequila make this Stockbridge hideaway a bit of a favourite for celebratory meals. + Tasty Tex-Mex in a charming setting - Chilly trip to the bathroom

✱ Bodega 62 Elm Row, Leith Walk, Leith (Map 5B: A5, 25) 0131 556 7930, ilovebodega.com | Closed Mon/Tue | £16.50 (dinner)

While many Mexican offerings in Edinburgh focus on traditional flavour combinations, a trip to Bodega breaks the mould. The starters/sharers still offer a nod to old school with guacamole or black bean and melted cheese dip, both served with corn tortilla chips. But the soft taco selection reveals the international and street food influences which place this establishment ahead of the pack. Again, there are some traditional notes, but there’s also globetrotting flavours such as Japaneseinspired avocado tempura with wasabi mayo, while a glance at the specials board steers closer to home with pankocoated haggis and sriracha. Each taco unveils a new adventure but remains perfectly cooked and balanced. Desserts once again highlight the versatility of the kitchen with traditional churros or innovative crocodile pie; a silky smooth lime and avocado treat. This Leith Walk taqueria is a festive, colourful yet snug space, with its relaxed and cheery service and BYOB policy creating a celebratory atmosphere. + Never a dull mouthful - Snug room means booking ahead is highly advised

✱ NEW El Cartel Casera Mexicana 64 Thistle Street, New Town (Map 1A: C4, 79) 0131 226 7171, elcartelmexicana. co.uk | £13.50 (lunch) / £13.50 (dinner)

It’s not easy being the new kid on the block and even less so when fire ravages your restaurant after just a few months of opening. But El Cartel has risen from the ashes and is spearheading a fresh approach to Mexican in the city, moving away from tired Tex-Mex to offer a more authentic street food-style menu of soft hand-pressed tacos and antojitos (snacks). Just across the street from sister venue The Bon Vivant, its dark grey interior is smattered with kitsch and colourful paraphernalia. All dishes on the concise menu can be shared, including the likes of baja cod tacos with chipotle crema and pomegranate salad, and quesadillas filled with chorizo, sweet potato and cow’s milk soft cheese. The

daily-changing specials board is also worth checking out, with approachable staff happy to guide you through your options. Hip hop beats and an extensive selection of tequilas, mezcals and frozen cocktails guarantee a party vibe. + Concise menu means you can try just about everything - No bookings, but you can drink in the Bon Vivant while you wait

✱ HITLIST

NEW Illegal Jack’s 44–45 St Patrick Square, Southside (Map 3C: D1, 3) 0131 629 2722, illegaljacks. co.uk | £15 (dinner)

Originally opened on Lothian Road in 2009, Illegal Jack’s was forced to close down five years later after a flood in the flat above brought down its ceiling. Unable to raise funds through traditional means (grrr, banks), owner Jack Muir set up a Kickstarter campaign to reopen the business. Six months and a touch over £80,000 later, and St Patrick Square is now home to the brand new Illegal Jack’s. Much of the produce is locally sourced, including Perthshire steak, West Lothian haggis and Barney’s beer which is brewed just 400 metres down the road. Even the habanero peppers are supplied by a family-run business in Cumbria. The haggis makes a great filling for immaculately crisp quesa minis, served piping hot with a cooling sour cream. Steak fajitas come with plenty of veg and an assortment of toppings pleasingly arranged in colour-coordinated bowls, and the enormous burritos are filled with a choice of meat fillings, plus vegetarian options including veggie haggis, chilli and sautéed veg. There’s plenty of space to sit down to enjoy your food, and you can wash it down with beer from a menu on weekly rotation. + The quesa minis are sublime - Mix of table service and counter service can be confusing

✱ Los Cardos 281 Leith Walk, Leith (Map 5B: A3, 11) 0131 555 6619, loscardos.co.uk | £7.20 (dinner)

Inspired by a holiday in Colorado, Los Cardos (Spanish for ‘the thistles’) has been a popular Tex-Mex destination on Leith Walk since 2010. Although primarily a takeaway and delivery restaurant with limited seating space for 10, diners are welcome to enjoy their meals in nearby bars Victoria, Boda and Sofi ’s. The menu features burritos, fajitas, quesadillas and soft tacos with a choice of steak, chicken, pork, Macsween’s haggis and vegetarian fillings. Those wishing to lay off the carbs might wish to dive into a burrito bowl (actually a large box), generously portioned with succulent Aberdeen Angus steak, fajita-style vegetables, sour cream, cheese and fresh pico de gallo salsa. The quesadillas arrive precision engineered with just the right amount of vegetarian haggis, enveloped in melted cheese within a handsomely grilled tortilla. A selection of salsas are available with something for every palate, and the tortilla chips are wonderfully fresh and crisp. Portions are excellent value, friendly staff more than happy to talk you through your options, and even when it’s busy the service is remarkably efficient. + Superb food at great prices - Delivery doesn’t cover the whole of Edinburgh

Mariachi 7 Victoria Street, Old Town (Map 2A: B3, 26) 0131 623 0077, mariachi-restaurant. co.uk | £10 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

The picturesque and colourful Victoria Street is home to the equally vibrant Mariachi. Sitting just up the hill from Edinburgh’s Grassmarket, it offers the perfect place to get the party started with

MEXICAN ✱ Bodega Leith’s neighbourhood taqueria offers fresh and fiery soft tacos inspired by international flavours. ✱ El Cartel Casera Mexicana Fresh Mexican street food, tequilas, mezcals, frozen cocktails and lively vibes all under one tiny roof on stylish Thistle Street. ✱ Los Cardos Leith’s ever-popular Tex-Mex institution serves up a superb fusion of Mexican and Scottish food.

space for 100 diners, a private party room for hire and an outdoor patio ideal for sipping Margaritas and other cocktails. The menu is a selection of the expected Tex-Mex favourites – nachos, burritos, tacos, fajitas and enchiladas – with a selection of fillings including chicken, shredded pork or beef. There’s also a large grill section with steaks and burgers, all served with a Mexican twist. Portions are very generous but look to the starters and salads for some lighter options including corn on the cob coated in chipotle mayo or the citrusy fresh king prawn salad with just a hint of chilli. Mariachi extends a warm welcome to everyone, making it a city-centre hub for celebrations. + Party ambience and plenty of food - Some dishes are a little quantity over quality

Miro’s Cantina Mexicana 184 Rose Street, New Town (Map 1A: B5, 49) 0131 225 4376, miroscantinamexicana.com | £8.50 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Situated within the hustle and bustle of Rose Street, Miro’s has offered up what it describes as traditional and modern Mexican food for a quarter of a century. Colourfully but tastefully appointed, the restaurant makes the most of its limited space, offering a cosy, intimate dining experience that is atypical of this popular tourist hotspot. And on the odd days when the Scottish summer plays ball, the tables come out for diners wishing to soak up the street’s atmosphere. The menu is a rather daunting affair: as well as quesadillas, nachos, enchiladas and fajitas, the ‘platos tipicos’ section throws even more choice into the mix, with dishes including slow-cooked lamb, paella and fish of the day. Starters are large enough to serve as main courses, although you’d then miss out on the fajitas with sizzling sirloin steak strips. The ground pork and beef meatballs are enormous, and they’re accompanied by plenty of rice, salad and tortillas. Should you have room for dessert, the churros to share round things off nicely. + Huge portions, lovely surroundings - Not the best quality steak The List Eating & Drinking Guide 83

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MEXICAN

list.co.uk

EDINBURGH

ROUND the WORLD This globetrotting selection showcases some of the most exciting tastes on offer in the city – from the meze dishes of Turkey, Greece and Lebanon, to the exotic meats of Africa, with a twist to the comfort food of North and South America. So take a chance – try a new country (or even a new continent), experience new flavours and explore menus full of unfamiliar dishes. More often than not they won’t disappoint, and their low-frills, homecooking approach (often with generous BYOB policies) also mean they won’t break the bank. Reviewers: Sylvie Docherty, Louise Donoghue, Claire Sawers, Yana Thandrayen

✱ Beirut MIDDLE EAST 24 Nicolson Square, Southside (Map 2A: D5, 77) 0131 667 9919, beirutrestaurant. co.uk | £7 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

El Cartel Casera Mexicana (page 83): lively vibes on stylish Thistle Street

Pancho Villa’s 240 Canongate, Old Town (Map 2B: B3, 28) 0131 557 4416, panchovillas.co.uk |

For over a quarter of a century, Pancho Villa’s has been a colourful fixture on the Royal Mile. Brightly appointed and set slightly back from the main road, on a sunny day it’s quite possible to forget you’re dining in the centre of Edinburgh. There’s a tapas theme to proceedings and, except for the tomato soup, the starters menu is very much focused on sharing, with dedicated ‘combination plates’ and a copious assortment of nacho-based dishes. Certainly, the guacamole portion is a little too generous for just one diner. As for the mains, there’s an embarrassment of choice with enchiladas, tacos, burritos, quesadillas and fajitas, plus an assortment of ‘house favourites’. The camaron tacos are packed with big, juicy prawns which more than hold their own against the hot sauce (many of the dishes have a mild alternative) and their crisp fries are perfect for sharing. A bountiful dessert menu brings things to a close with options including churros, apple and cinnamon chimichanga, and a deliciously rich, tequila sticky toffee pudding served with two portions of ice-cream. + An abundance of choice - Carne enchilada rather swamped by rice and refried beans

El Sabor 237 Cowgate, Old Town See Round the World

Sabor Criollo 36 Deanhaugh Street, Stockbridge See Round the World

Taco Mazama Mexican Kitchen 38 Hanover Street, New Town (Map 1A: D5, 66) 0131 629 1892, tacomazama.co.uk | £5 (set lunch) / £10 (dinner)

The Edinburgh sister to the popular Glasgow chain offers a welcome haven for hungry shoppers or those looking to fuel up before a night on the tiles. The

casual ‘order at the till’ set-up and the simple three-step menu creates a relaxed vibe from the outset. With burritos, fajitas, quesadillas, tacos, salads, burrito bowls and nachos to choose from, and fillings ranging from shredded beef chilli to tofu, the menu dishes up a plethora of combinations so there really is something for everyone. This casual city-centre Mexican kitchen, with a wall dedicated to their giant burrito-eating challenge, is not one for those seeking a long relaxing meal but rather a quick stop to refuel at pocketfriendly prices. The constant stream of diners passing through its doors means a speedy but fun experience during any visit to Taco Mazama. + Budget-friendly city centre munch - Not one for long lingering meals

Viva Mexico 41 Cockburn Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D2, 7) 0131 226 5145, viva-mexico.co.uk | £9.50 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

At the ripe old age of 32, Edinburgh’s original Mexican is still as lively and welcoming as ever. The super-central location means there is rarely a quiet moment here. The split-level set up offers a choice of backdrops; upstairs is candlelit and romantic while downstairs is big and brightly decorated, the perfect setting for a lively celebration. The menu is a collection of the usual suspects when it comes to Mexican cuisine along with chef’s specials and their famous fajitas which, even though they admit they’re not technically Mexican, are here due to popular demand. Those wishing to try something a little lighter will be satisfied by the selection of seafood dishes including camarones (king prawns) which can be cooked to order in a choice of three sauces. The diversity of the menu and the space itself mean that when it comes to Mexican dining, Viva Mexico remains many things to many people. + It’s versatile – good for date night or a party - Service can be slow on busy nights

This well-established Lebanese restaurant has a deserved reputation for producing authentic, high-quality Middle Eastern cooking. It’s more formal than many of its counterparts but the welcome is warm and the service swift. Set in a spacious whitewalled room with exposed wooden beams, there’s an almost overwhelming selection of hot and cold mezze on offer. Alongside the usual stuffed vine leaves and hummus there are more unusual dishes such as marinated chicken liver, or pickled baby aubergines. Main courses range from a selection of grills to stews, each dish distinctly spiced, as well spicy Lebanese sausages, quail and sea bass. A generous portion of traditional meatballs is moist, the sauce spiked with preserved lemons and the plate decorated with sumac. The Lebanese puddings are worth trying too, whether it’s rice pudding infused with rosewater or the pistachio and coconut creation that is Beirut Nights. The quality and range of dishes ensures that Edinburgh’s only specialist Lebanese restaurant retains a loyal following. + Distinctive dishes cooked with real commitment - Menu is very lamb-heavy

Bell’s Diner NORTH AMERICAN 7 St Stephen Street, Stockbridge See Steakhouses & Burgers

Boteco do Brasil BRAZILIAN 47 Lothian Street, Old Town (Map 2A: C4, 53) 0131 220 2487, botecodobrasil. com | £5.95 (set lunch)

A slice of Rio de Janeiro is alive in the capital. This is a colourful reconstruction of a Brazilian bar and eatery where the music is uplifting, footballs hang from the ceiling, one TV screen shows a game in action, the other happy carnival scenes. Grab a booth to share tapas, a beer or cocktails. Enjoy plates of lightly spiced fishcakes and grilled vegetables with extra garlicky bread. Love your meat? There’s plenty here with mains including whole roast chicken, marinated sirloin with mash and a feast stew of ribs, sausage, smoked beef and salt bacon. Those prepared to wait a bit can have a traditional ‘Bauru’

burger with spicy molho sauce and side of refried beans. Or choose a plate of salty deep-fried fish, calamari, and tiger prawns on a bed of salad or chips. Desserts are for the sweetest of teeth and include torta do chef – rich balls of a condensed milk and chocolate mix topped with whipped cream. A boteco for a fun night out that doesn’t take itself too seriously. + The décor and overall party vibe - The stale beer smell

Buffalo NORTH AMERICAN 12–14 Chapel Street, Old Town See Steakhouses & Burgers

✱ Calistoga NORTH AMERICAN 70 Rose Street North Lane, City Centre (Map 1A: C5, 58) 0131 225 1233, calistoga.co.uk | £12 (set lunch) / £27 (set dinner)

This one’s a gem – and an almost hidden one at that. On the lane behind Rose Street, between Frederick and Castle Street, most people don’t know Calistoga is there – it feels like a real treasure when you track it down. Calistoga is a Californian restaurant (named after Robert Louis Stevenson’s honeymoon spot north-west of Napa) with Sideways wine store attached (named after the wine roadtrip movie). Lovers of fine wines should do themselves a favour and book an informal Wine Tasting Dinner (starting at £34, for four excellent wines to taste before a very good-value three course dinner) or one of their Winemaker’s Dinners (meet and greet the growers, and geek out on wines). The selection of organic, small batch, unusual and delicious wines is impressive, as are the prices. Liquids aside, the cooking is memorable too. Scottish produce is carefully selected and given a Californian spin; tender braised beef is served in dainty spring rolls with an Asian chilli dipping sauce, a gourmet macaroni cheese is pepped up with jalapeños, clams are drizzled in a fantastically salty caper sauce and the coconut and basil mousse is presented with a miniature serving of pineapple salsa. + Wine heaven, and the dining’s mighty fine too - Cobbled streets and upstairs toilets won’t suit wheelchairs

Circus MIDDLE EAST 8 St Mary’s Street, Old Town (Map 2B: B3, 25) 0131 556 6963, circusedinburgh. com | £14 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

This place really comes into its own during the summer months, being one of the few places near the Royal Mile to have outdoor seating in a pretty garden courtyard, away from the traffic. The garden’s open year round, though, so customers can sit outside in the winter if they’re hardy enough. Situated as it is in tourist central, the menu aims to please all tastes. It’s nominally a Mediterranean café/bistro with some mezze, piquant Turkish beef sausages or unusual filo rolls filled with tangy cheese and herbs. But there’s also plenty of paninis, pasta dishes and burgers too. Cooking is fairly simple; grilled salmon comes with few adornments, lamb kebabs are gently spiced but standard fare. You can also just pop in for a coffee and homemade cake if a full sit-down meal isn’t what you’re after. Plus, there’s regular storytelling and live music events here and it’s worth checking out what they’ve got on during the Edinburgh Festival. + The garden space - Limited wine list

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ROUND THE WORLD

In association with

EDINBURGH

Diner 7 NORTH AMERICAN 7 Commercial Street, Leith See Steakhouses & Burgers

Empires TURKISH 24 St Mary’s Street, Old Town (Map 2B: B3, 24) 0131 466 0100, empirescafe. co.uk | £12.95 (set dinner)

This Turkish restaurant in the heart of the Old Town – a sister establishment to the Middle Eastern-influenced Circus just up the street – has a quirky interior offering a bit of wow factor with its painted glass lights, scatter cushions and cosy mezzanine. Diners can choose from a host of mezze, such as the Mediterranean feast or party menu, which feature the likes of hummus, dolma (stuffed vine leaves), sucuk (airdried Turkish sausage) or feta peppers, all served with warm bread and salad. The lamb moussaka is a hit, with layers of aubergine, courgette, tomato and potato in a creamy white sauce, but the muska borek (spinach and feta cheese pastries) are a little dry. Desserts are limited to lokum, (cubes of Turkish delight) or syrupy baklava, but both are worth trying with their apple tea. With its relaxed atmosphere and attractive BYOB policy, this is a popular city centre spot for parties. + Lamb moussaka - Slightly dry muska borek

52 Canoes NORTH AMERICAN 13 Melville Place, West End See Steakhouses & Burgers

✱ Frontier Restaurant NORTH AMERICAN 8 Gillespie Place, Tollcross (Map 3A: B2, 22) 0131 228 1145, frontierestaurant. co.uk | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

From the owners of Mums Comfort Food, Frontier is their American cuisine outpost in Tollcross. With a saloon-like feel, the décor is sparse with leather banquettes and sheepskin rugs draped over chairs. King of the starters is buffalo chicken wings doused in a moreish marinade, served with ranch

dressing. For mains, the ‘Quentin’ is a succulent hot dog covered with treacle bacon, cheddar cheese and English mustard, dished up with hand cut fries and ruby slaw. Burgers are six-ounce beef patties chargrilled with all the standard embellishments, plus the more unusual options of basil and blue cheese. Aside from all the meat, they’re also making a concerted effort to expand their vegetarian offering with a sweet potato and black bean burger and a crisp halloumi ‘notdog’. Fill your boots and wash it all down with a couple of Frontier craft ales (from Belhaven), a frozen Margarita or a milkshake. + Great American cooking and tipples - Bird art not to everyone’s tastes

Hanam’s KURDISH 3 Johnston Terrace, Old Town (Map 2A: B3, 30) 0131 225 1329, hanams.com | £9.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Slap bang in tourist central, with no tartan or shortbread in sight, the walls here are adorned with bright, coloured tapestries and a large menu filled with Middle Eastern food for sharing. Hanam’s is a popular place to chow down for locals and visitors to the city. To start, dip oversized flat bread into hummus and smoky baba ganoush, or nibble a cigar-shaped hot cheese borek pastry, flavoured with parsley, feta and mozzarella. The overwhelming mains selection caters for vegetarians, fish and meat eaters alike. Kurdish and Iranian-style kebabs are a key feature, the vegetables marinated in tomato and lemon juice and the lamb tasty and tender. Portions are generous, so try to leave room for dessert. Pieces of Turkish delight-style cubes arrive with ice-cream, or finish off with a palate-cleansing rose water sorbet. The restaurant is BYOB with no corkage charge, but offers a selection of nonalcoholic beers and wines. Should it take your fancy, partake in a puff of the shisha to round off, with a range of flavours to try. + Newly renovated and friendly - Pace yourself, portions are large

Indaba

TIPLIST FOR WINE BY THE GLASS • Bar à Vin / L’Escargot Blanc West End favourite with Scottish produce shining in French bistro classics. 20 • The Devil’s Advocate Quality food and drink in an imaginative space, tucked into historic Edinburgh close. 25 • Edinburgh Larder Bistro Basement setting for Scottish sourced food and carefully selected old world wines. 39 • Henri of Edinburgh Airy space for brunch, lunch or a glass of wine in Stockbridge, with cheese and charcuterie. 54 • Leith Chop House A wellthought-through range of wines to suit the top-quality cuts of meat on offer 101 • Smith & Gertrude Quality music, cheese, charcuterie and wine at this laid-back reinvention of the wine bar. 33

FUSION 3 Lochrin Terrace, Tollcross (Map 3A: B1, 8) 0131 221 1554, edindaba.co.uk | Closed Sun | £20 (dinner)

Like your tapas? At Indaba, they’re done with a twist. The owners are a charming husband-and-wife team: Begoña, a chef from Spain, and Charlton from South Africa, who looks after front of house. Influences from both countries feature here, along with Scottish touches. Maybe nibble on dried boerewors and boquerones (pickled anchovy fillets) to start, ordering an extra plate of salted roasted almonds while chatting and checking out the menu. There’s always a fish of the day and the specials board changes regularly – fluffy truffle potato croquettes are a delight. Pan-fried chorizo has a lip-smacking cider and onion sauce, patatas bravas are nicely spicy and halloumi salad keeps things fresh. But hang on, what’s this? Macsween’s haggis meatballs with spinach and pine nuts, (veggie and non) have snuck in too. If the old waistline is struggling a bit towards the end, go for the trio of half-portion desserts to share, or one of their bespoke ice-creams or sorbets from Over Langshaw Farmhouse in the Borders. + The open kitchen and genuinely pleasant staff - Not really set up to cater for kids or disabled customers

NEW Jambo Grill and Restaurant AFRICAN 169–173 Gilmore Place, Tollcross (Map 3A: A2, off) 0131 228 6088, jambogrill. co.uk | Closed Mon | £18 (dinner)

Jambo Grill served the good people of Falkirk for over three years, before relocating to Edinburgh in 2015 to bring their impressive Central African food to a wider audience. Run by a talented husband-and-wife team, the welcome is warm from Serah and the cooking is accomplished from Frances. The menu concentrates on Kenyan cuisine – with a couple of Nigerian and South African dishes too. There are exotic meats like zebra, goat, buffalo, ostrich, wild boar, kangaroo and crocodile, alongside mchuzi wa mbuzi, a goat curry with the most tender meat. Nyama choma (lamb on the bone), roasted or fried, is a taste sensation, served with a selection of side dishes and homemade sauces. The quality of the food continues throughout all the courses, and their South African malva pudding is a deliciously lighter version of a sticky toffee pudding, served with sweet vanilla sauce and vanilla icecream. With African music and décor as a backdrop, why not wash all this fabulous food and new flavours down with an African beer or cocktail. + An explosion of new flavours - Zebras on the walls and zebras in the pies

Khublai Khan Mongolian Barbecue Restaurant MONGOLIAN 43 Assembly Street, Leith (Map 5A: D1, 14) 0131 555 0005, khublaikhanedinburgh.co.uk | £22.95 (set lunch) / £24.95 (set dinner)

If you’ve ever been to a safari park and fancied eating its contents, then this is the place for you. Exotic meats – responsibly sourced a sign assures us – such as zebra, llama and camel, along with more prosaic beef and venison are on offer. Based on a concept from the modern Far East rather than 13th-century Mongolia, dishes of raw ingredients, spices and sauces are assembled by diners with help from a recipe list and cooked in front of you on a huge griddle. There are a myriad of combinations to be concocted and you can eat as many helpings as you can manage. The meat is all cooked ‘well done’ so it can be hard to distinguish the different types. The huge cavernous restaurant has been styled to look like a Mongol palace, a novelty that attracts birthday parties and leaving-dos but there’s also a more intimate dining area near the front. Starters and puddings are made in-house and are a cut above the bought-in variety. + Great homemade puddings

✱ HITLIST

ROUND THE WORLD ✱ Beirut Authentic Lebanese food, worth visiting for the mezze alone. ✱ Calistoga Laid-back Californian restaurant with excellent food and wine – and a great wine store too. ✱ Frontier Restaurant Great American comfort food: all the classics, with the welcome addition of frozen Margaritas and tasty milkshakes. ✱ Knights Kitchen Tightly packed nook of colour, energy and freshly cooked dishes from across Africa. ✱ Pera: Turkish Mangal & Meze Bar Shoebox-sized Turkish BYOB café doing excellent breakfasts, mezze platters and barbecued meats. ✱ Spitaki A new spitaki or ‘little house’, this Greek taverna’s delicious, simple mezze dishes will bring on the Santorini flashbacks.

- Not a place for vegetarians

✱ NEW Knights Kitchen AFRICAN 126 Nicolson Street, Southside (Map 3C: D1, 5) 0131 667 7278, knightskitchen. co.uk | Closed Mon | £12 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

The journey from market stall to permanent premises is generally one to be celebrated: owner Christine Longstaff’s passage with Knights Kitchen in the last year has happened with particularly infectious energy and enthusiasm, carrying with it a growing audience of admirers and enthusiasts. Students, ex-pats and market-stall converts converge on the small Nicolson

11 BRUNTSFIELD PLACE, EDINBURGH, EH10 4HN

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Street café-restaurant that has been fitted out in shebeen-chic of rough wood, reed thatch, African print cloth and carved wooden face masks. Across the menu are dishes capturing the colour and vibrancy of the continent, including cinnamon and corn pancakes with various toppings served for breakfast and brunch, okra fritters as a side and sharing plates of Masai Mara meats or African curries, including a Durban-inspired ‘bunny chao’ of chilli served in a scooped out bun. Ugali (maize meal) or cassava chips are staples in Africa but exotics here, and great foils for the cooking that’s palpably fresh, skilled and vibrant. Treats abound, from nibbly, fiery dried sardines to sweet Kenyan mandazi doughnuts. Out of Africa, a place that delivers on its promise of nourishment for the soul. + Food full of African energy - The pumping soundtrack can take the energy to a slightly deafening level

Laila’s Bistro MEDITERRANEAN 63 Cockburn Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D2, 9) 0131 226 5097, lailas-bistro.co.uk | £13 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Behind the cheery pale green exterior is a relaxed Middle Eastern-meetsMediterranean eatery where you can find dishes from Italy to the Levant. The olive green walls paired with natural materials give the place a cosy feel, working well as both a day and evening venue. The food is simply prepared grilled meats and fish with grains; the pomegranate rice is particularly good, flecked with dried fruit and tart pomegranate molasses; bulgur wheat is enlivened with spices and stock. There’s a concise selection of mezze – standout dishes are the smoky baba ganoush with Iraqi bread, and the delicately flavoured stuffed vine leaves. Salads and wraps keep the lunchtime tourists happy and, in an effort to cater for all tastes, there’s an incongruous list of burgers in the ‘bistro classics’ section. Sweets range from bought-in chocolate fudge cake to elegant saffron and cardamom ice-cream. While Laila’s may be the younger, less sophisticated sibling of Hanam’s and Pomegranate, it delivers uncomplicated food suited to informal dining and, with BYOB too, it can make for a cheap evening in the Old Town. + Friendly atmosphere, great location - More mezze dishes, less chip dishes please

My Big Fat Greek Kitchen GREEK 6 Brougham Street, Tollcross (Map 3A: C1, 3) 0131 228 1030, mybigfatgreekkitchen.co.uk | Closed Mon | £19 (dinner)

My Big Fat Greek Kitchen, a little taste of the Mediterranean in Tollcross, is under new ownership. But as it’s been taken over by previous chef Kostas Retsas, the menu – largely consisting of traditional dishes – remains pretty much unchanged. Start with a selection of dips and warm pitta bread – garlicky hummus, tangy tzatziki and the less well-known creamy feta and chilli dip, tirokafteri. Popular favourites such as their moussaka with minced beef, aubergines and potatoes topped with an impressive bechamel sauce or the tasty lamb klefiko cooked on the bone, do not disappoint. Psaronefri, a fillet of pork stuffed with halloumi and marinated in olive oil and lemon sauce, is less traditional but still delivers punchy flavours. With its exterior themed in the blue and white colours of Greece and a simple interior showcasing views of the home country, this restaurant proves popular with loyal regulars and theatregoers alike. + Simple Greek food and friendly service - Tables can be a bit cosy

Nawroz KURDISH 26–30 Potterow, Old Town (Map 2A: D5, 76) 0131 667 2299, nawrozrestaurant. com | £7 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

A spacious glass-fronted Kurdish restaurant near Edinburgh University and the big Fringe venues, the décor here is traditional Middle Eastern and the atmosphere informal. Among the large selection of hot and cold mezze, the falafel stand out, being light and vibrantly spiced, unlike the heavy pucks sold in some supermarkets. The style of food is homely, with big portions of meat in piquant sauces and dried lemons or pomegranate dressing adding a tangy edge. A point of difference in

Kurdish cuisine is that meat is cooked on a charcoal grill, infusing it with extra smokiness. There’s certainly plenty of different kebabs to choose from, but despite the meat focus, the vegetarian dishes are far from an afterthought, with interesting aubergine and okra dishes. With a private dining area, Nawroz specialises in catering for large parties and group dining is certainly the best chance to sample all the mezze. There’s an outdoor seating area for shisha pipe smoking that’s popular in the summertime. + Great mezze selection - Very busy during the Festival

The New York Steam Packet NORTH AMERICAN 31 Rose Street Lane North, New town See Steakhouses & Burgers

✱ Pera: Turkish Mangal & Meze Bar TURKISH 57 Elm Row, Leith (Map 5B: A5, 27) 07756 122730, turkishrestaurantedinburgh. co.uk | Closed Mon | £5.95 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Besides the ubiquitous Turkish kebab, Edinburgh locals used to have to fly to Turkey (or London’s Stoke Newington, at the very least) to find proper Turkish cooking. Now, there are several options in the capital, including this excellent Leith Walk café. It’s shoebox-sized and frills are limited to some pretty coloured lamps and protective ‘evil eyes’, which only adds to the no-fuss charm. Breakfasts are recommended, including fabulously salty Turkish spicy sausage (sucuk), salami, eggs, cheese, warm bread, jam and tea, or upsize to the Sultan’s Breakfast with extra tahini dip and olives, or a veggie alternative. Hot mezze platters are a good overview for under a tenner, with squeaky halloumi, courgette, feta and mint fritters and pastrami and mozzarella pastries, or pick and mix from delicious icli kofte (deep fried bulgur balls stuffed with spiced lamb and walnut) or refreshing kasik salad (tomato, cucumber, onion,

Pomegranate MIDDLE EAST 1 Antigua Street, New Town (Map 1B: D5, 40) 0131 556 8337, pomegranatesrestaurant.com | £8.25 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

It’s big, it’s bright, and it’s well suited to cater for the crowds heading to neighbouring bars and the Playhouse theatre. Part of the Middle Eastern restaurant trio that includes Hanam’s and Laila’s, this is not one for romantic tête-à-têtes, but good for groups, catching up with a friend, or a bite after work. It’s a sharing type of a place, so get in about the mezze-style food en masse. An array of tasty tapas dishes includes a lemony hummus, crunchy fatoush salad or salty halloumi cheese with olives. Qozy lamb stands monolithic and proud on a bed of rice and naan, the meat tender and plenty of it. Chargrilled mains feature a large selection of kebabs as well as varied wraps; the slightly dry falafel wrap is well matched to the accompanying salad and chilli and garlic dips. Fresh mint tea and a plate of sticky, sugary pastries is a satisfying end, coupled perhaps with a sit on the outside decking to puff on one of the shisha pipes. + Pretty big portions and perfect for a party - Could do with dimming the lights a notch

The Portobello Palm Tree FUSION 87 Portobello High Street See Bars & Pubs

Redwood Bistro NORTH AMERICAN 1 Meadow Place Road, Corstorphine, West End (Map 4: A3, off) 0131 281 2576, redwoodbistro.com | Closed Sun/Mon | £11 (lunch) / £19 (dinner)

This relaxed neighbourhood restaurant is in a fairly unlikely spot for Californian dreaming, just by PC World and Tesco in Corstorphine. While traffic snakes past the roundabout outside, inside the walls are decorated with posters of Santa Cruz and Napa Valley and the menu is full of sunlightsoaked produce from the Golden State. San Franciscan owner-chef Annette Sprague (some will remember her first restaurant, Stockbridge’s popular Redwood) wanted to create a local bistro where friends could socialise – and the steady stream of Corstorphinites seem to approve. Reflecting Californian cooking trends, expect plenty sweetsavoury flourishes (spicy caramel bacon popcorn, or twice-baked cheese soufflé with poached pears and spiced pecans both work nicely with a glass of their Californian chardonnay), Eurasian influences (prawns and mussels with fresh pasta, fennel, tomatoes, ouzo and chilli-lemon panko crumb) and Mexican nods (spiced duck comes with pipian mole verde sauce). The long wine list includes a couple of interesting cabernet sauvignons and pinot noirs from California or there’s San Francisco’s Anchor Steam for beer drinkers. + They take group bookings to create a holiday-feel on special occasions - No lunch, just coffee and cake on Tuesday and Wednesdays

Los Argentinos AMERICAS 28–30 West Preston Street, Southside (Map 3C: D3, 21) 0131 668 3111, losargentinossteakhouseinedinburgh. co.uk | £20 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Located in Newington, Los Argentinos, as you may have deduced, is an Argentinian steakhouse. The décor is simple and doesn’t scream South America but the emphasis is very much on the famed meaty fare popular in that part of the world. With that in mind, set your expectations accordingly as there’s little else on the menu, other than sirloin, ribeye, fillet or rump cooked to your liking. It’s all about the steak here. A pot of chimichurri sauce is a spicy concoction, placed on each table and recommended for all dishes. Surprisingly, the chorizos caseros starter is the standout dish on the menu, and the empanadas (traditional meat and corn pasties) are a close second. There are straight steaks or combination dishes which offer various cuts of steak with assorted sauces, all served with salad, fries or baked potatoes. Regulars flock back for the quality of the meat and the very attentive service. + The chorizos caseros - Desserts are not homemade

parsley and walnuts with sumac and pomegranate dressing). Lamb and chicken dominate the mangal (charcoal barbecue) mains and there’s tagines for vegetarians. Leave space for sticky baklava and potent coffee, or an indulgent bubbling chocolate soufflé. + Plans to expand downstairs - Can be a tight squeeze at peak times

Boteco do Brazil (page 84): delivering South American tastes and sounds

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EDINBURGHâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S KURDISH & MIDDLE EASTERN RESTAURANT

â&#x20AC;¢ Fixed price lunch deal â&#x20AC;¢ Loyalty card scheme â&#x20AC;¢ Extensive Dry Bar and BYOB policy â&#x20AC;¢ Delivery service via Deliveroo

3 Johnston Terrace, Edinburgh, EH1 2PW (just beside Edinburgh Castle)

T: 0131 225 1329 or 07888 677 613 E: hanams@hotmail.co.uk

www.hanams.com

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www.pomegranatesrestaurant.com

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63 COCKBURN STREET, EH1 1BS OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK WWW. LAILAS-BISTRO.CO.UK FROM 12PM â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 10PM TEL:0131 226 5097 SNACKS, LUNCH & DINNER

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Reekie’s Smokehouse NORTH AMERICAN 20 Holyrood Road, Old Town (Map 2B: B3, 20) , reekiessmokehouse.co.uk | Closed Sun/Mon | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Pulled pork is continuing to trend right now, and the team behind this informal American-style BBQ joint are giving it a Scottish spin. You can douse your crumbly pulled pork or tender beef brisket in their made-from-scratch Whisky Jerk sauce, Irn-Bru BBQ sauce or even a Buckie Broon sauce. Sides are homemade and excellent; the coleslaw is crunchy, lightly mustardy rather than overly creamy, and laced with apple, or there are smoky beans with hunks of meat and whisky, which go particularly well with a pulled beef pastry sausage roll from the specials board. Meat is definitely the star here (quality, local meats are cooked low and slow, with love, on an American-built smoker) but for vegetarians who don’t baulk at the meaty scents in the café, there’s smoked veggie haggis to enjoy. Craft beers from Scotland (Tempest, Williams Bros etc) are on offer alongside Scottish rum, gin and whiskies, or there are milkshakes for the sweet-toothed. Leave room for owner Felicity’s gooey brownies and blondies if you can, recommended with a Pekoe tea or small-batch coffee from Home Ground in Cardross. + Carnivorous heaven for fans of smoky, salty, tender meat - Sometimes run out of meat on extrabusy days

NEW El Sabor AMERICAS 237 Cowgate, Old Town (Map 2A: D3, 85) 0131 629 4810

A new arrival in the Cowgate, with

founding links to Stockbridge’s Sabor Criollo – but now its own venture – this is a bar, diner and club with a strong Latin American flavour. With a dedicated area upstairs for dance classes and club nights, music is a key part of the mix, while the full offer of drinks and food – centred on Mexican and Central American dishes – was under development as this guide went to press. [Not open for a full review at time of going to press – check list.co.uk/food for updates.]

Sabor Criollo AMERICAS 36 Deanhaugh Street, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B1,13) 0131 332 3322, saborcriollo. co.uk | £9.90 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Hidden away in a Stockbridge basement, this colourful little restaurant recreates the relaxed vibe of a Latin American cantina with salsa on the stereo and a cheerfully informal atmosphere. Despite its location in one of the most wellheeled parts of the city, the food is very reasonably priced, with most mains under £11. The menu is made up of the type of Mexican and Venezuelan dishes that people would cook at home, such as pabellón crillo, a slow-cooked beef stew with richly flavoured black beans. All the Mexican favourites are here such as enchiladas and fajitas, the latter arriving sizzling hot to the table, the meat lifted by a spice coating. Starters go beyond the ubiquitous nachos, with homemade croquettes (chicken or cod) and street tacos made with black/blue corn and topped with piquant sauces. The dessert list looks like a bit of an afterthought, with chocolate fudge cake or a simple banana flambé, so save the calories for one of the cocktails for a more authentic Latin taste.

Award Winning Cookery School in Central Edinburgh From one day workshops to a six month diploma we have something for you

7 Queen Street, Edinburgh EH2 1JE. For booking and information, visit: www.entcs.co.uk call: 0131 226 4314 or email: info@entcs.co.uk

THIS LANE CALISTOGA Speciality Restaurant of the Year

Tel - 0131 225 1233 www.Calistoga.co.uk

Pomegranate (page 86): and array of Middle-Eastern mezze-style food + Authentic Venezuelan slowly

simmered black beans - The dessert list

Shebeen AFRICAN • 103 Dalry Road, West End (Map 4: A4, 56) 0131 629 3030 • 8 Morrison Street, West End (Map 4: C2, 45) 0131 629 0261, shebeenbar. co.uk | £11 (lunch) / £21 (dinner)

If you’re in the mood for meat, meat and more meat, then Shebeen is the place for you. Their previous incarnation in Leith has now become three restaurants – one in Dalry, one in Dalkeith and this unimposing restaurant front in Morrison Street. They pride themselves on the quality of meat they serve, with all butchering and mincing done inhouse. Opt for the sharing platter starter, otherwise described as a ‘bucket of meat’, consisting of BBQ spare ribs, homemade boerewors, grilled pork belly and beef sosaties (meatballs). The meat of the ribs falls off the bone, the boerewors are perfectly spiced and moreish – in fact, everything is good. This is definitely the standout dish and the gargantuan mains that follow are more meat and lots of their special sauces to go with it. Be aware though, that with regulars, tourists and resident South Africans, it can be difficult to get a table. Subject to availability, you can also buy their own biltong and boerewors direct from the kitchen. + Paradise for meat lovers - Not much choice for vegetarians

✱ NEW Spitaki GREEK 133–135 East Claremont Street (Map 1B: D1, 68) 0131 556 9423, spitaki.co.uk | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

A new spitaki or “little house” popped up last year in what used to be the old Elbow bar, and word of mouth has been driving a well-deserved drove of diners to its front door since. Run by Christos Babalis and David Hastings, the Greek taverna keeps things simple; the splitlevel interior is done out in shades of holiday-memory blue and green, with whitewashed walls, but it’s the delicious mezze dishes that really bring on the Santorini and Kos flashbacks.

Salty cheese saganaki (fried kefalotyri cheese in breadcrumbs) is intensely moreish; standout grilled octopus with ladoxydo dressing (anchovy and shallot vinaigrette) is beautifully fresh; the gigantes (butter beans in tomato sauce) are rich and herby, and sausage-shaped keftedes (minced pork and beef kebabs) go particularly well with a dollop of creamy tzatziki. It’s food designed to be shared informally (bad news if you wanted to hog that baklava plate), so invite friends, or better yet, book out the entire upstairs mezzanine for a sprawling Mediterranean get-together. + Holiday vibes and delicious, simple Greek cooking - The day they took the sardines off the menu

Tápame GREEK 19–20 Teviot Place See Spanish

Tupiniquim BRAZILIAN The Green Police Box, Middle Meadow Walk, Lauriston Place, Old Town (Map 2A: C5, 62) , tupiniquim.co.uk | Closed Sun | £8 (lunch) / £8 (dinner)

This police box at the top of Middle Meadow Walk serves up 100 per cent gluten-free crêpes, with a sunny, healthy Brazilian spin. Tropicalia sounds emerge from the tiny cabin’s radio, as do freshly squeezed juices for £3 (ask for lemongrass or ginger kicks in your beetroot and orange, or apple and carrot juice, depending on what’s in smiley owner Fernando Miranda’s fruit bowl that day). There are myriad ways to get your five-a-day here, with purple sprouting broccoli, butternut squash, spinach, red peppers and cherry tomatoes showing up regularly in the daily crêpe specials, alongside spicy sausage, jalapeños, marinated lamb, chicken and lots of melted cheese. For the sweet-toothed, they do options with strawberries, chocolate, bananas and more. Saturdays are feijoada days (a traditional Brazilian beef stew with beans and spices) and if the weather is feeling cooperative, you can eat your takeaway in the sunshine on their fold-up chairs (summer months only).

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Because of its location – in the heart of student-land, and also the epicentre of festival-land during August – queues are common, but the wait is worth it. + Friendly service and healthy, monstersized crêpes - Their doors might be closed on very windy days

Yellow Bench POLISH 31 Crighton Place, Leith Walk, Leith (Map 5B: A3, 17) 07510 861842, yellowbench.co.uk | Closed Tue | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Named after the bright bench outside, this blink-and-you’ll-miss-it Polish diner feels like a proper neighbourhood restaurant. Busy with regulars, it has the homely intimacy of eating out in someone’s living room. The menu has undergone a revamp, so gone are the crêpes and weekday lunchtime opening, with the focus now on a concise menu of traditional Polish favourites with a pan-European twist. The dish that most embodies this approach is the fried pierogi (filled Polish dumplings) stuffed with haggis. There are nods to French, Hungarian and Greek cuisine and, depending on the specials, you might have pierogi with a Russian or Italian filling. The food tends towards the hearty, with rich slow-cooked stews and substantial soups, and the flavours are big too. Staff are friendly, helpfully guiding diners through what could be unfamiliar culinary territory, providing informative suggestions on what to try. + A good introduction to Polish food - There’s just one pudding of the day

Yeni MEDITERRANEAN 73 Hanover Street, New Town (Map 1A: D4, 89) 0131 225 5755, yenirestaurant. com | Closed Sun | £9.95 (set lunch) / £12 (dinner)

This stylish family-run restaurant conjures up the flavours of the Mediterranean and Middle-East through freshly cooked hot and cold mezze dishes from Turkey, Greece, Lebanon and Italy. The food here is a mixture of home-cooking from owner Ruya’s grandmother’s recipes, and the

TIPLIST FOR MEATINESS • Blackwood’s Bar & Grill Delectably smoked Scottish fare in a plush, New Town parlour, ideal for intimate dates. 90 • The Caffeine Drip South African coffee house and bakery serving authentic, freshly made food, and speciality meats. 50 • Leith Chop House Destination dining for meat-lovers, showcasing the best of British with alluring informal style. 101 • Pig in a Poke Get your meat ﬁx at this tiny café serving one of life’s simple pleasures: pork between bread. 62 • The Printing Press Putting a strong emphasis on game among its array of wellpresented dishes 43 • Reekie’s Smokehouse American-style BBQ joint with a Scottish spin, where they like to cook meat low and slow. 88

contemporary creations of her chef and husband Stuart. Diners are encouraged to share dips, salads, grilled meats and stuffed pastries, such as borek (fried filo pastry rolls stuffed with feta cheese and herbs). Banquet meals include the very popular Yeni Sofrasi which adds a couple of mains to the mezze selection – a tender chicken kebab and iskender, their version of the famous Turkish kebab shop dish of chopped pitta bread topped with garlic yoghurt and tasty strips of lamb, covered in herby tomato sauce. If you can manage it, squeeze in a syrupy chocolate baklava for good measure. + The banquet meals - Authentic dishes work best

Zara’s Mediterranean Bistro TURKISH 176 Rose Street, New Town (Map 1A: B5, 50) 0131 225 2333, zara-turkishcuisine.co.uk | £8.45 (set lunch) / £21.50 (set dinner)

Named after owner Seyhmus Aslanalp’s daughter, this little Turkish restaurant on pedestrianised Rose Street depends a lot on passing trade, so the owner is sometimes outside, enticing diners in. Although it can lack atmosphere on quiet nights, the food certainly holds its own. Their mezze hits the spot with bowls of creamy cacik (yoghurt and garlic) dip, sweetly moreish ispanak borek (spinach and feta filo pastries) and delicious karniyarik (aubergine stuffed with mince, oven-baked in a tomato sauce). Lamb meatballs come with Moroccan chickpea and ginger sauce, chicken kofte are roasted with herbs then chargrilled, or there’s Turkish Lady’s Thigh – a shapely curve of beef, coated in spices. Aslanalp is a warm host, happy to give recommendations if you don’t know your yaprak dolma from your mantar dolma (one’s a stuffed vine leaf, the other’s a mushroom and sausage bake, since you asked.) A Turkish yoghurt drink is a good mouth cooler with spicier dishes, or there are tempting sweet options like baklava, kazandibi (caramel pudding) and kunefe (sweet cheese pastry). + Richly seasoned, authentic Turkish cooking - Careful not to drop in during their wintertime midweek, mid-afternoon break

Zuhus EUROPEAN 29/30 South Bridge, Old Town (Map 2B: A3, 11) 0131 557 3750, zuhus.co.uk | £11 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Chicken restaurants have become a big deal over the last few years and with the notable success of one particular chain, local restaurateurs are looking to get in on the action. Zuhus is a venture located on South Bridge, from the family responsible for Kebabish in Dalry. The interior has a clean, stylish and spacious seating area with a room next door for cooking and placing your order. As expected, chicken dominates the menu, but there are also burgers, pittas and wraps with a Mediterranean influence. Their speciality peri peri chicken comes in four heats on the spiceometer – daredevil, hooting hot, marvellous medium or mellow mild. A sharing platter offers one or two whole chickens and a choice of sides. Choose from sweet potato fries (with the option of peri peri powder), corn on the cob, coleslaw or homemade garlic bread. With a mixed clientele of students, regulars and passers-by, this is really good chicken spiced to your liking. + Tasty chicken to sit-in or take away - Can get cramped on Friday and Saturday nights

SCOTTISH From rising stars to Michelin stars; proven track-records to new arrivals; the Scottish restaurant scene in Edinburgh continues to flourish. Highquality ingredients from Scotland’s larder combine with the impressive talents of the city’s chefs and diners are spoiled for choice, whatever their budget. The recent arrival of several stylish venues run by ambitious individuals offering imaginative menus at keen prices has raised the bar even higher. It’s no time to rest on one’s laurels, even for the most established restaurants – which of course is great news for those seeking wonderful food.

✱ HITLIST

SCOTTISH ✱ Aizle One of Edinburgh’s most exciting restaurants: stays unpretentious while showcasing fine sourcing and presentation.

Reviewers: Nick Dunne, Sandy Neil, Colin Renton, Susan Smith, James Teideman

✱ Café St Honoré A taste of Paris with 97% sustainable and mostly Scottish ingredients, this is a top choice for ethical eaters.

A Room in Leith

✱ Castle Terrace A sophisticated, light and airy restaurant, with consistent quality and style on the plate.

1a Dock Place, Leith (Map 5A: C1, 5) 0131 554 7427, aroomin.co.uk | £20 (set dinner)

A Room in Leith and sister venue A Room in the West End stick firmly to a Scottish vibe, reflecting the Highland roots of the owners. However, the menu in Leith favours seafood. The restaurant is divided into two areas – the front section is more traditional in appearance while the rear is L-shaped and more modern. Sharing platters – meat, seafood and veggie – are popular choices, while à la carte carries a fixed price tag. The focus on simple use of good quality produce does not hamper the imagination on show in the kitchen. Starters feature an innovative offering in the form of a cheese pancake with chickpea, salsa and pesto that will satisfy more than vegetarian diners. Mains include plenty to satisfy carnivores, but the Shore front location means that seared sea bass with Shetland scallops, risotto and garlic toast is among the leading options. A selection of top notch Scottish cheeses is an excellent way to round off, while those seeking a sweeter finale could opt for a sumptuous chocolate cheesecake. + Sharing platters a perfect way to sample the menu - Lunch now served in Teuchters Landing pub

A Room in the West End 26 William Street, West End (Map 4: B1, 22) 0131 226 1036, aroomin.co.uk | £13.50 (set lunch) / £20 (set dinner)

While Teuchters bar upstairs heaves with drinkers, the restaurant below is an oasis of calm. The room, lightened by a mural, has three romantic nooks for those seeking a more intimate atmosphere. A quirk of this place and its associated establishments is the concept of food in mugs – whether that be olives to accompany a pre-meal dram from the list of more than 100, or the rustic chips served as a side order. But it’s back to a traditional bowl for chunky Cullen skink that is creamy and thick with a subtle flavour of lightly smoked haddock. After that hearty starter, the skill in the kitchen is on show with attractively presented mains which are packed with flavour. Roasted Burnside Farm roe deer haunch appears as three slices of expertly cooked meat, served with a mini venison haggis tart that adds a balancing flavour to a dish served alongside potato gratin and Madeira gravy. Finally, the choice of desserts is a little limited but a moist

✱ Edinburgh Food Studio Innovative space for cooking, eating and sharing with meticulous sourcing, great food and a fabby drinks list too. ✱ Field Playful contemporary Scottish cooking at a reasonable price, served in a simple Southside dining room. ✱ The Gardener’s Cottage Social dining and seasonal cooking – so imaginative, interesting and delicious you’ll never be bored or disappointed. ✱ The Grain Store Top Scottish dining in one of Edinburgh’s most intimate, romantic restaurants on picturesque Victoria Street. ✱ The Kitchin Michelin-starred, thanks to a relentless focus on using the finest ingredients to produce beautifully presented food. ✱ Number One Classy and classic city centre fine dining with a Michelin star and exceptional service. ✱ Timberyard Professionally presented home-grown produce and impeccably sourced ingredients in a cool warehouse conversion. apple, cinnamon and vanilla sponge is certainly worth a try. + Layout suitable for large groups as well as couples - Choice of desserts is limited

The Abbotsford 3 Rose Street, New Town See Bars & Pubs

Acanthus Macdonald Holyrood Hotel, 81 Holyrood Road, Old Town (Map 2B: D3, 33) 0131 550 4500, macdonaldhotels.co.uk | £26 (lunch) / £26 (dinner)

In 2015 Acanthus replaced Rocca as the restaurant at the Macdonald Holyrood Hotel, its dining concept moving from Scottish-with-an-Italian-twist to simply The List Eating & Drinking Guide 89

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Scottish. Unchanging though is the inescapable feeling you’re eating in a big chain hotel restaurant, which of course you are. Constantly courteous uniformed staff ask how long you’re staying, where you’re from: go with it, have fun, pretend you’re on a romantic break, say you’re off to Britannia tomorrow. With slick, unstoppably smiley service, thick napkin laid, start with textures of beetroot and apple, Crowdie cheese crumbled over, or confit duck or chicken terrine with pistachio crumb. The Scottish theme continues with chicken with a turnip and haggis bonbon and Talisker whisky jus, and pork belly with kale and spiced apple; then finished with cheese or chocolate fondant. It’s early days yet, but helmed by ambitious head chef John Maltby (star of Masterchef: The Professionals) Acanthus is striving to find its feet as a dining destination for visitors and locals alike. + Slick service throughout - May feel a bit corporate chain hotel for some

✱ Aizle 107–109 St Leonard’s Street, Southside (Map 3C: E2, 15) 0131 662 9349, aizle. co.uk | Closed Mon/Tue | £45 (set dinner)

Aizle practises the art of ‘bistronomie’ – Parisian for bistro plus gastronomy. If that sounds pretentious, Aizle really ain’t. The focus is firmly on the food. The dining space, with its touches of tartan and tweed, gives no clue to the joys to come. There’s no menu but a blackboard listing the month’s ‘harvest’ that will get you Googling: daikon? Monk’s beard? Togarashi? Before the show, bread raises the bar: soda with whipped duck butter and sticky seaweed salt. Wow. Then comes the parade, each dish an Instagrammable picture for a post-modern exhibition. Highlights? Too many. There’s amazement at every turn, excitement at what’s next, each ensemble an art form, many tastes rapturous. Among a trio that could be three separate starters, a pot of wild garlic custard topped with duck ragù. There’s caviardribbled, samphire-dressed turbot on Arran Victory potato purée. Craupaudine beetroot, dehyrated to paper; the cherry mustard muse to a duo of 40-day aged beef and dark ox cheek. Or how about the looks-like-sushi blood orange jellywrapped ricotta roll with matching sorbet and spritely meringue tuiles? Whatever Aizle calls its art, it’s tempting to call it a masterpiece. + A procession of progressive, postmodern dishes - Some may be thrown by the lack of a ‘menu’

Amber Restaurant The Scotch Whisky Experience, 354 Castlehill, Royal Mile, Old Town (Map 2A: B2, 34) 0131 477 8477, amber-restaurant. co.uk | £9.95 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

Within the basement of The Scotch Whisky Experience, the hue of Scotland’s favourite tipple dominates the colour palate of this unpretentious, rustic dining space. With bare brick walls and pale oak flooring, the dimmed lights and flickering candles of the restaurant are at odds with the incandescence of the adjoining bar; both tourists and locals alike gravitating like moths towards the 400 or so bottles of whisky lining its walls. The lunch menu showcases meat, cheese and seafood platters as well as Scottish tapas – appealing finger-food for those who’ve just finished a whisky tour upstairs – while the evening service is more focused on group bookings and family get-togethers. Scottish produce is to the fore on a menu including traditional favourites all served in wee pots as alternatives to starters: Cullen

rooms of old. A sedate exercise in magnolia with only sixteen covers, it’s a quiet space in which to sample a concise menu focusing on quality Scottish produce, sourced from within the city as well as from trusted Highland suppliers. A juicy starter of slow-roasted pork belly is enlivened by a fennel seed rub, while a main of crisp-skinned supreme of chicken is well-cooked but slightly let down by a Jenga tower of soggy sweet potato chips. The quality of the ingredients is evident however; a simple sea bream dish represents the super-fresh seafood on offer. Pudding choices include warm banana loaf with toffee sauce and a tart passion fruit crème brûlée, served with a buttery sable biscuit, perfect for dipping. The sourcing at the Atholl is to be admired but some might find the food, like the restaurant itself, just a little bit . . . beige. + A chef passionate about great Scottish produce - It can be quiet and lacking in atmosphere Castle Terrace (page 92): freshly refurbished and upgraded in 2016

skink, haggis and warming lamb stovies, the meat meltingly tender. Orkney sirloin steak is served with dauphinoise potatoes and wild mushrooms, while baked halibut with herb dumplings is enhanced by a creamy bisque sauce. Desserts, however, can seem a bit of an afterthought. + Whisky pairings suggested by knowledgeable staff - Occasional timing issues in the kitchen

Angels with Bagpipes 343 High Street, Old Town (Map 2A: C2, 16) 0131 220 1111, angelswithbagpipes. co.uk | £15.95 (set lunch) / £26 (dinner)

Behind its small Royal Mile façade, Angels with Bagpipes is a warren of intimate, low-lit dining rooms, decorated with muted shades, marble, and a nude bronze angel playing the bagpipes. The tempting, seasonal menu is reassuringly short. Dishes please both the palate and the eye: artful constructions (or deconstructions) deftly cooked with imagination and flair for flavour and texture combinations. Expertly seared scallops pair with creamy celeriac and crispy Parma ham, while tender, pink lamb harmonises with powerful goat’s curd, anchovy and almonds. A red, bloody venison loin is more than a match for white pudding croutons, smooth turnip mash, succulent, earthy chanterelles and buttery, salty sprout leaves. The sides are excellent: crisp, salty fries and rich, velvety mashed potato which demand the dipping of one into the other. Alas for deconstruction though – one pud (a chocolate brownie, peanut butter ganache and salted caramel ice-cream) was so deconstructed it was no longer recognisable. + The fresh, punchy steak tartare - The lamb seemed a little young and bland

The Apprentice Edinburgh College, Granton Campus, 350 West Granton Road, Leith (Map 5A: A2, off) 0131 559 4030, edinburghcollege. ac.uk | Closed Sat–Mon and outside term-time | £7.50 (set lunch) / £14.95 (set dinner)

So this is where it begins. Students with a passion to enter the wonderful world of food and drink give days, months, years of their lives to train as chefs and staff in the restaurant industry and you can see them in action here. As the restaurant fronting the Edinburgh College’s hospitality school, trainee chefs advance their skills under the ever watchful eyes of their mentor chefs. Producing lunches,

dinners and a five course ‘Masterchef’ dinner on Wednesdays and Thursdays helps chefs and hospitality staff transition from training to professional experience. And diners are the beneficiaries, having the fun of watching the action in the kitchen via live video link as well as eating some impressive food. Forget staying at home with your favourite cooking show – come down to Granton for the real thing, plus a side order of delicious food, attentive service and a commitment to please. + A great bargain and great fun - Diners must be seated no later than 6.45pm

The Atelier 159–161 Morrison Street, West End (Map 4: B2, 75) 0131 629 1344, theatelierrestaurant.co.uk | No Kids (under 5) | Closed Mon | £14.90 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

Flash, bang, pow, wow! Get your phone out because you’re gonna wanna Instagram pictures of this meal. The Atelier’s chef (Maciek Zielinski) likes an adventure and his experimental menu and stylish establishment is an unexpected addition to this West End neighbourhood, known more for a good curry than cutting-edge cuisine. The upside is really good quality Scottish produce with a scattering of foraged accoutrements, and very good value. A Jerusalem artichoke, truffle and smoked leek amuse-bouche is a taste sensation and a trailer for what’s to come. First up, lightly cooked scallops presented like a work of art, piled high with Serrano ham, figs, more Jerusalem artichoke and nasturtium. Next fresh wild trout sits atop a colourful concoction of mini Scotch egg, rhubarb, quinoa, and fennel beside a pool of star anise hollandaise. Finish with a poached pear with saffron beside churros, chocolate sauce and sushi ginger ice-cream. The Atelier provides plenty of food for thought but does it all work? You decide. + Wonderful, weird and beautiful presentation - Not for the faint hearted

The Atholl at The Howard The Howard Hotel, 34 Great King Street, New Town (Map 1B: A3, 14) 0131 557 3500, thehoward.com | £32 (lunch) / £32 (dinner)

With high corniced ceilings, a grand marble fireplace and starched white tablecloths, the Atholl, located in a tranquil side-street in the New Town, is an elegant reminder of the hotel dining

Blackwood’s Bar & Grill Nira Caledonia, 10 Gloucester Place, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B2, 29) 0131 225 2720, niracaledonia.com | £30 (dinner)

Blackwood’s Bar & Grill, a plush New Town salon within Gloucester Place’s Nira Caledonia Hotel, smokes Scottish beef, shellfish, game, and even water buffalo, in its charcoal-fuelled Josper grill. The idea is to chargrill the meat fast and hot, crisping the outside and leaving the inside juicily tender, infusing the whole with the warm aroma of a forest campfire. The baroque parlour, once home to Blackwood’s Magazine writer John Wilson, feels like a cosy, hushed club – ideal for confiding dinners and dates. ‘Our diners are often welltravelled,’ its menu begins, but ‘our dishes are more stay at home’ – expect Puddledub pork, Gartmorn duck, Perthshire wild boar, ‘Highland Drovers’ 21 day aged steaks, and, naturally, a loch of seafood. The good-value set dinner includes the heavenly starter of Jospersmoked Shetland mussels, fragrant, soft, and sweet in a moreish liquor of creamy, tarragon, shallots, garlic and East Lothian cider. Equally strong is truffle butter and hot or cold-smoked salmon on fresh bread, and a rich, dark chocolate fondant with cooling pistachio ice-cream: all evidence of an imaginative chef who cares. + Exceptional smoked mussels - Not great chips

Blonde 75 St Leonard’s Street, Southside See Bistros & Brasseries

✱ Café St Honoré 34 North West Thistle Street Lane, New Town (Map 1A: C4, 78) 0131 226 2211, cafesthonore.com | £14.50 (set lunch) / £27 (dinner)

Vive la Vieille Alliance, found just off Thistle Street in the guise of Neil Forbe’s Cafe St Honoré. This is the sort of place you’d expect to see Lorraine cross-wearing French resistance fighters plotting the overthrow of the Vichy government over a hearty coq au vin and a bottle of Beaujolais. Other than the Beaujolais though, pretty much everything you’ll consume is actually Scottish. A well-known proponent of the slow food movement, Forbes is aiming for 97% sustainability - you won’t even find imported olive oil here. The quality of the ingredients is allowed to shine through in a light chicken and ham hock terrine starter pleasantly supported by celeriac remoulade. Likewise a subtly seasoned Perthshire Sika deer is melt in your mouth tender, accompanied by

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cheese and vegetables from the Continis’ Kitchen Garden in Lasswade, lobster thermidor mac’n’cheese as well as bar bites after 5pm and whisky tasting options. For the latter, there’s also now a special Glengoyne whisky room in the basement which offers an adaptable space for private dining or gatherings. [Not open for a full review at time of going to press – check list. co.uk/food for updates.]

✱ Castle Terrace creamy fondant potato and offset with a rich Stornoway black pudding. Retro desserts with a modern twist include a fantastic vanilla rice pudding with almonds, raisins and home preserved rhubarb. All of this comes at a very reasonable price, even without the brilliant-value Café Classic menu, which is available all night. + A beautiful showcase for Scottish ingredients - Take pity on the starving vegetarian

Cannonball Restaurant & Bar Cannonball House, 356 Castlehill, Royal Mile, Old Town (Map 2A: B2, 35) 0131 225 1550, contini.com/contini-cannonball | £16 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

A bit of internal reworking in the first quarter of 2016 has seen historic Cannonball House, owned by The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo and run as a three-storey bar and restaurant by Victor and Carina Contini, take on a sleeker, more elegant tone with a greater whisky presence and a greater focus on lunch and dinner. Vintage tattoo posters line the stairs that lead from the street-level bagpipes to the Continis’ rarefication in the rafters. Try for a table with a castle view, but if not, no matter – others in the airy dining room have sea views over the Old Town rooftops. The menu of rich but contemporary dishes revolves around an exhaustive Scottish sourcing policy across seafood, meat, game, vegetables, cheese and even condiments. The street-level bar, now with a coveted corner seat offering views right down the Lawnmarket, has filling lunchtime plates including a tart with crowdie

33–35 Castle Terrace, West End (Map 4: D1, 28) 0131 229 1222, castleterracerestaurant.com | No Kids (under 5) | Closed Sun/Mon | £29.50 (set lunch) / £65 (set dinner)

Recently renovated, Castle Terrace is one of the city’s most sophisticated restaurants. Its bright and airy interior features a beautiful blue and white etching of Edinburgh Castle, in lieu of a view. The introduction of a chef’s table in the huge new kitchen downstairs takes the experience to the next level for true epicureans. You can ask to enjoy a course there, as well as getting tips from the chefs on how to create their stylish dishes, such as the slightly spicy roe deer pâté starter which comes encased in a chimney of pastry and set off by a lovely pear sauce. The extensive à la carte mains include a choice of land and sea but it’s hard to see past paella Castle Terrace style, packed full of fishy delicacies from a tasty octopus morsel to squid, salmon and monkfish, all set off on a light, subtle spelt risotto. Equally impressive is a caramel soufflé dessert, playfully topped with popcorn and ice-cream. To sample chef Dominic Jack’s offering without breaking the bank, the £29.50 lunch menu is both excellent and excellent value. + Beautiful food presented with class and creativity - Diners are bit packed in – request a window or end table

Copper Blossom 107 George Street, New Town See Bars & Pubs

David Bann 56–58 St Mary’s Street, Old Town See Bistros & Brasseries

NEW Dine with Stuart Muir Saltire Court, 10 (1F) Cambridge Street, Tollcross (Map 4: C1, 26) 0131 218 1818, dineedinburgh.co.uk | £14.50 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)

After 14 years as executive chef at Harvey Nichols Forth Floor Restaurant, Stuart Muir is now ploughing his own furrow in plush surroundings beside the Traverse Theatre and Usher Hall. The space has undergone a high class refurbishment: up a welcoming staircase is a stylish, dark-walled dining room divided into two spaces – the rear houses the champagne and cocktail bar (open to non-diners), while in the front section an apple tree centrepiece adds to the character. This feeling of quality continues with dishes created from top-notch locally sourced ingredients. Artistically presented starters could include delicate smoked salmon fishcakes, packed with flavour and an ideal opening. Mains area an opportunity for the chef to display his talent. Braised shoulder of lamb is shredded, the meat is reconstructed in the style of a ham hock, the flavour is enhanced by rapeseed oil and tapenade. Desserts lean heavily towards the Scottish classics – a sumptuous sticky toffee pudding served with salted caramel sauce is a perfect way to conclude. + Great value fixed-price menus - Parking costs can hit the budget

FOR TEA AND CAKE • Casa Angelina Small tearoom with a big character, serving delicious homemade breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea. 60 • Dovecot Café by Leo’s Daytime café in Edinburgh’s famed tapestry studio serving soup, sandwiches and bakes. 18 • Lovecrumbs With a reputation for creative bakes, this laid-back coffee house is a haven for the sweet-toothed. 55 • Milk More than just your average cafe – Milk has inventive choices for breakfast, lunch and a sweet treat. 55 • Mimi’s Bakehouse Naughtybut-nice family cafe whips up spectacular cakes and comforting savories. 55 • Pekoe Tea Pekoe is a tealover’s dream, dedicated to the art of enjoying the humble leaf in all its glory. 62

The Dining Room The Scotch Malt Whisky Society, 28 Queen Street, New Town (Map 1A: D4, 84) 0131 220 2044, thediningroomedinburgh.co.uk | No Kids (under 14) | Closed Sun | £21.95 (set lunch) / £39 (set dinner)

Unsurprisingly, the Scotch Malt Whisky Society revolves unequivocally around Scotland’s national drink. However, its city centre restaurant also offers a showcase for top-notch cooking using fine ingredients from the nation’s larder. The dining area is a bright, highceilinged space with large windows framed by plaid curtains. Cotton tablecloths and good quality glasses confirm that both food and drink are taken seriously here. An amuse-bouche with matching whisky sample launches a parade of Scottish produce represented in a skilful manner by James Freeman, chef since 2004. Starters include thinly sliced mallard duck served with sloe gin, orange and beetroot, a marriage of textures and flavours that is sweet to the taste. Among the mains is a combination of sprouts, onions in buttermilk, barley and ale – each element making a delicious contribution without overpowering the star of the show, moist roast partridge. Desserts are an artistic triumph, with delicate carpaccio of rhubarb as easy on the eye as it is on the palate. And, given the venue, there is no better way to round off the meal than with a dram. + Tasting menu with matching whiskies or wines - Surcharge for groups of six or more

The Dogs 110 Hanover Street, New Town See Bistros & Brasseries

The Dome Grill Room 14 George Street, New Town See Bistros & Brasseries

EH15 The Club, 24 Milton Road East, Portobello (Map 5B: C5, off) 0131 344 7344, theclubedinburgh.com/eh15restaurant-bar | Closed Sat–Mon | £7.50 (set lunch) / £7.50 (set dinner)

Twenty Princes Street Grill & Smokehouse (page 98): fine dining scenery

TIPLIST

Fancy spotting the star chefs of the future? Then get down to EH15 where Edinburgh College’s catering and

hospitality students are put through their paces. The training restaurant on the Milton Road campus delivers a weeklychanging menu designed to showcase skills ranging from pastry to pasta, with a focus on local produce. Dishes are attractively presented and the young waiting staff are eager to please. Dining times are limited, to fit round the rest of the student’s schedules, so plan ahead and, while quality is high, be prepared to tolerate the odd wee wobble. That said with a menu as keenly priced as this and the genuine ‘try hard’ spirit the students show, any tiny errors are easy to forgive. + A tasty way to support up-and-coming talent - Dining space is rather lacklustre

✱ NEW Edinburgh Food Studio 158 Dalkeith Road, Southside (Map 3C: E4, off) 0131 258 0758, edinburghfoodstudio. com | Closed Sun–Wed | £35 (set dinner)

Sometimes something comes along that changes the game. The Edinburgh Food Studio isn’t a restaurant (though chef/ proprietors/forces of nature Sashana and Ben cook a set tasting menu-style dinner at least three times a week). It’s an idea: a space, a showcase, a home for memories, a platform for connecting. Don’t expect smoke and mirrors though. At its heart is a simple philosophy – put the ingredients at the heart of the cooking. That means a weekly, if not daily, changing menu. Whole beasts are bought, mum’s garden is raided for fruit, an allotment is tended and each and every ingredient from a primrose flower to an English cauliflower is individually sourced. There’s also a research programme collecting food memories from old folks, collaborations with food luminaries like JP McMahon, whisky and wine courses and tastings (the drinks list is exemplary), poetry nights with food, international interns sharing their own traditions and research . . . the place crackles with energy, buzzes with ideas. If that sounds exhausting, you don’t have to go deep – you can simply enjoy your tea at one of two communal tables, and enjoy it you will. But something important is happening here. And it’s good. It’s very, very good. + The energy, the sourcing, the food - Communal tables won’t suit everyone

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SCOTTISH

In association with

WHISKI Bar & Restaurant

A RESTAURANT BASED IN THE HEART OF EDINBURGH SERVING QUALITY, FRESH, INNOVATIVE BUT CLASSIC FOOD. SCOTTISH AND MODERN EUROPEAN FOOD WITH A TWIST

_ 18 Eyre Place New Town, Edinburgh EH3 5EP 0131 556 0006 info@newchapterrestaurant.co.uk

Multi award winning whisky bar and restaurant Fresh Scottish food served all day Over 300 whiskies Live Scottish music every night “the ultimate Scottish experience” 119 High Street (Royal Mile), Edinburgh, EH1 1SG T: 0131 556 3095 E: info@whiskibar.co.uk

www.whiskibar.com follow us on twitter @whiskibar

HARVEY NICHOLS The Forth Floor at Harvey Nichols offers the best in contemporary eating and drinking in Edinburgh, with unparalleled views of the city skyline. Book now to dine at the Forth Floor Restaurant, Brasserie or Bar by calling 0131 524 8350 or by visiting harveynichols.com

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Edinburgh Larder Bistro 1a Alva Street, West End See Bistros & Brasseries

â&#x153;ą Field Listed in The Sunday Times Top 100 Restaurants 2015 SLTN Wine Award 2015 RĂŠmy Martin VSOP Award for Best Newcomer in the UK One of The Daily Telegraphâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 2 Best Places to dine in Edinburgh Wedgwood is more than just a restaurant, it is a hidden gem on Edinburghâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s prestigious Royal Mile. Paul and Lisa have a passion for food and hospitality and offer the complete dining experience in warm and intimate surroundings. t 0QFO EBZT B XFFL t .POEBZ 4BUVSEBZ QN QN VOUJM MBUF t 4VOEBZ QN QN VOUJM MBUF

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41 West Nicolson Street, Southside (Map 2A: D5, 70) 0131 667 7010, fieldrestaurant.co.uk | Closed Mon | ÂŁ12.95 (set lunch) / ÂŁ22 (dinner)

If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re happy to forgo the faff of wine waiters and whatnot, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find fine dining for a fraction at Field (if it did silver service, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d be talk of Michelin stars). Its stage is simply set with straightforward surrounds: a front room-feel with a big black cow on one wall, black flock on the other; the service is pro; the bread warm; the wine list not marked up past reason. Pre-theatre itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a steal, Ă la carte still a quality deal. Scottish larder showcased, the menu reads like a joy â&#x20AC;&#x201C; one of those from which youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d be happy having anything. There are no passengers, instead purple potatoes, celeriac purĂŠe, harissa mayo, sage jus . . . from sea bass to baby beets, stars and support share spotlights. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s classy, composed, contemporary cooking â&#x20AC;&#x201C; skilful not showboating, playfully post-modern: artichoke cheesecake, venison rissole, goatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cheese beignets, chicken confit ravioli. Continue: citrus ĂŠclair with blood orange sorbet, rhubarb and custard mille-feuille with Birdâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s custard icecream: every element excels, to the end. + Michelin-star quality for much less - Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll have to book, even on weekdays

Field Grill House 1 Raeburn Place, Stockbridge See Steakhouses & Burgers

97â&#x20AC;&#x201C;101 Dalry Road, West End See Bistros & Brasseries

See the Table Talk feature on p.60 for more about The Gardenerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cottage chef and coowner Ed Murray

2 Rutland Place, West End See Bars & Pubs

â&#x153;ą The Grain Store

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For decades a sad, empty stone cottage, designed by architect William Playfair, sat below Calton Hill at 1 Royal Terrace Gardens. Then in 2012 two chefs â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Dale Mailley and Edward Murray â&#x20AC;&#x201C; resurrected this New Town but and ben, adding its own kitchen garden. The Gardenerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cottage champions seasonal cooking and social dining. Excitement begins as soon as you enter, past Kilner jars of curious jams, essences and sauces of vibrant, natural colours, towards long, candlelit communal dining tables. There, you are in full view of the open kitchen as it creates imaginative dishes from whatever the foragers or farmers bring in. When booking (as you must, and in advance too) they ask for your dietary requirements, because you get what youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re given. Be reassured though: the daily-changing seven course dinner, Ă la carte lunch, and weekend brunch will be at best excellent, at worst interesting, but always fun. To give an idea: a Douglas fir aperitif is followed by oyster tempura with scurvy grass mayo; wild garlic soup and a winkle dumpling; superlative, tender roe loin and cod; cleansing rhubarb and yoghurt sorbets; a thinking manâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Scottish cheeseboard; and finally sea buckthorn meringue and alexanders pastille. + Melting, buttery cod and succulent, pink venison - Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no espresso â&#x20AC;&#x201C; just a pot of coffee

Ghillie Dhu First Coast

ÂŁ25

thegardenerscottage.co | Closed Tue | ÂŁ22 (lunch) / ÂŁ40 (set dinner)

Forth Floor Restaurant Harvey Nichols, 30â&#x20AC;&#x201C;34 St Andrew Square, New Town (Map 1B: B5, 58) 0131 524 8350, harveynichols.com/ restaurant/edinburgh-dining | ÂŁ25 (set lunch) / ÂŁ30 (dinner)

Atop Harvey Nichols, that New Town shrine to prestige and glamour, the Forth Floor Restaurant has been striking a pose since 2002. Crisp white tablecloths, subdued lighting and unobtrusive dĂŠcor create a pleasantly understated yet exclusive atmosphere, reassuringly akin to many of the capitalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s other fine dining experiences. This is obviously no run-of-the-mill department store eatery, but where is the swank and spectacle you might expect, given the restaurantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s location? Satisfyingly, the pizzazz is provided by the food itself - seasonal Scottish produce intricately plated with precision and flair. Delicate octopus carpaccio with crispy potato string and harissa mayonnaise is pretty enough to frame and hang on the wall; the flavours, however, not as punchy as the presentation. Contrastingly, a piquant goatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cheese mousse harmonises elegantly with both the spiced sweetness of a gingerbread crumb and earthy beetroot. A deconstructed confection of treacle sponge, compressed apple and clotted cream ice-cream hits the sweet spot, but the disassembled elements of time-honoured favourite cranachan underwhelm; each mouthful a reminder that great flavour, unlike some foodie fads, will never go out of fashion. + Fine Scottish ingredients, beautifully presented - Not all dishes provide the same feast for the palate as for the eyes

â&#x153;ą The Gardenerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cottage 1 Royal Terrace Gardens, New Town (Map 5B: A6, 35) 0131 558 1221,

30 Victoria Street, Old Town (Map 2A: B3, 25) 0131 225 7635, grainstorerestaurant.co.uk | ÂŁ14 (set lunch) / ÂŁ40 (dinner)

Oysters, foie gras, pheasant, venison, halibut and lamb â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the Grain Store lays out the finest Scottish produce on a menu set to impress. Its candle-lit nooks and crannies, traditional furnishings and a sprinkling of fairy lights creates the a special atmosphere for intimate romantic liaisons or cosy family gatherings. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no surprise that this is one of Edinburghâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oldest Scottish restaurants, celebrating its 25th anniversary in 2016. Given its location on one of the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most picturesque streets, it could easily rest on its laurels, but head chef and co-owner Carlo Coxon certainly canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be accused of that; his skills are as fresh and modern today as ever. Crispy roasted pork belly beautifully complements seared king scallops as soft and smooth as butter. A tender saddle of lamb, crisp on the outside, is supported by a subtle chorus of devilled kidney, kale and glazed carrots. Despite appearances thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nothing overpowering or heavy about this menu, so a light tarte tatin makes a fantastic finale. Quite simply, the Grain Store remains one of the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finest restaurants. + Beautiful food in a lovely atmosphere - High prices â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a great-value lunch menu

Hellers Kitchen 15 Salisbury Place, Southside See Bistros & Brasseries

Hendersons Salad Table 94 Hanover Street, New Town (Map 1A: D4, 86) 0131 225 2131, hendersonsofedinburgh.co.uk | ÂŁ11 (set lunch) / ÂŁ15 (dinner)

Established in 1962, this is the UKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

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✱ The Kitchin 78 Commercial Quay, Leith (Map 5A: C1, 3) 0131 555 1755, thekitchin.com | Closed Sun/Mon | £29.50 (set lunch) / £70 (dinner)

Café St Honoré (page 90): a piece of Paris reclaimed for Scotland

second oldest vegetarian restaurant and, like its offshoots (which now include the refurbished upstairs deli/sandwich bar, bakery, round-the-corner vegan bistro, new café on Holyrood Road and occasional market stall), espouses an ethic of ‘Eat Better, Live Better’. The Salad Table, set below street-level with a low-ceilinged, U-shaped layout, remains the most traditional element of the operation. Its daytime canteen service, blackboard menu, evening music sessions, décor and vibe has been left mostly untouched as the management within the Henderson family has shifted a generation over the last few years and change has been focused on other parts of the business. For more than two generations of Edinburgh loyalists, however, that’s just the way they seem to like it. The selection behind the glass counter is of wholesome soups and salads, savoury pizzas, stroganoffs, quiches, lasagne and specials, including vegan and glutenfree choices, with desserts as well as an array of cakes. Evenings take on a slightly more formal aspect with table service and an à la carte menu, with a list of beer and wine that includes local, organic and biodynamic options. + Hearty, wholesome stalwart - Disappointing moments of detachment by kitchen and staff

Howies (Victoria Street) 10–14 Victoria Street, Old Town (Map 2A: C3, 24) 0131 225 1721, howies. uk.com | £10.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Howies is a stalwart of the Edinburgh restaurant scene, and has been offering up classic Scottish cuisine since 1990. Its Victoria Street branch, ‘carved out of rock that Edinburgh Castle perches on above’, flourishes with tartan, there’s Scottie dog art and a grand chandelier fit for a banqueting hall in Glamis or Dunsinane; while a Paris print alludes to Auld Alliance approaches – cassoulet, chicken liver parfait, potatoes dauphinoise and lyonnaise, crème brûlée. The menus mix tourist-pleasers like Cullen skink and haggis, neeps and

tatties with Scottish-drawn dishes plus some wider choices. Starters include hot smoked salmon, mussels of the day and a warm bistro leaf salad with wood pigeon breast and black pudding croutons. Mains feature a hefty haunch of Glen Lyon venison and an unfortunately dry chicken breast stuffed with spinach and garlic cream cheese. Desserts go from banoffee pie to should-be-sharper rhubarb panacotta. Lunch and early dining deals are attractive, but get in quick for the latter. + Lunch and early dining deals - Early dining deal doesn’t last long

Howies at Waterloo 29 Waterloo Place, New Town (Map 1B: C6, 47) 0131 556 5766, howies.uk.com | £10.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Enjoying a location just a few steps from Princes Street, and an ideal stopping-off point for passers by seeking sustenance after a stroll on Calton Hill, this branch of Howies also attracts custom from nearby offices and hotels. By day, light streams through large windows, illuminating the substantial two level space, while candles lend a more intimate feel in the evening. The excellent-value lunch and early dining deals are popular, with slick service ensuring those with limited time still enjoy themselves. A menu built around local produce is enhanced by a specials blackboard, with a good number of vegetarian and gluten free options available. BYOB is also popular. Warm wood pigeon salad with bacon and black pudding croutons is a simple, well-executed starter. Mains include a catch of the day, which could include pollock served on a bed of creamed vegetables with sweet potato fondant. Sweet-toothed diners can sign off with substantial puddings or perhaps a lighter rhubarb panacotta with ginger biscuit and nut brittle. + Perennial favourites at a consistent standard - It can be noisy when full

Kilted Lobster 112 St Stephen Street, Stockbridge See Fish

A decade of running his eponymous restaurant has brought Tom Kitchin celebrity status and a Michelin star. He remains unwaveringly committed to showcasing Scotland’s finest produce. That philosophy extends to a dining room, enlarged in 2015, boasting highquality yet understated design features. A window looking onto the kitchen reveals a focused team while waiting staff deliver efficient but discreet service out front to diners who may equally be enjoying the great value set lunch, fixed price dinner or à la carte. A map of Scotland tracing the provenance of ingredients arrives at the table, followed by an amuse-bouche which precedes an impressive dining experience. Dishes vary according to season but may typically include fish such as warm hake pâté with shellfish and watercress velouté, boasting flavours that explode in the mouth and linger beyond the final tasty morsel. Mains feature stunningly presented hare pithivier – golden pastry encasing rich meat, served with pumpkin sauce balanced by rhubarb’s acidity and the sweetness of roasted vegetables in red wine. Among the technically accomplished desserts is feather-light apple crumble soufflé and coffee in the bar area is a delightful finale. + Inspired Scottish dishes of the highest order - Have to book well in advance if you want a specific time

Kyloe Restaurant & Grill The Rutland Hotel, 1–3 Rutland Street,

West End See Steakhouses & Burgers

Leith Chop House 102 Constitution Street, Leith See Steakhouses & Burgers

The Magnum Restaurant & Bar 1 Albany Street, New Town (Map 1B: B4, 64) 0131 557 4366, themagnumrestaurant.co.uk | £12.95 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

So inviting are the Magnum’s cascading fairy lights and velvety interior that you almost wish for weather terrible enough to keep you there all night, nursing a glass of wine and chatting to the staff in its cosy bar. Divided into separate bar and dining areas, upstairs serves a decent, broadly Scottish menu while the bar below boasts old wood tables and a fine selection of whiskies for afterwards. The effect is of an intimate local where you’re made to feel at home while dining with friends. The menu descriptions somewhat overstate the dishes, which are well cooked – though with few surprises. Notable exceptions include the crispy duck egg accompanying pork belly with braised lentils and a cranachan cheesecake, moreish enough to forgive its slightly dated presentation. The whole experience is elevated by the warmth of the dining space and the easy charm of the staff. Upstairs can be sectioned off for private parties and there’s pavement seating for 20 outside making this a rare find in Edinburgh: snug, convivial winter dining plus perfect summer drinking opportunities. + Unstuffy intimate ambience - No prizes for innovation

An evening of Scottish entertainment, hospitality and history

A Delicious Scottish Banquet Royal Warranted Caterers Scottish Music & Traditional Dance Show Address to the Haggis Stunning Historical Surroundings Complimentary Drinks Weekly at Surgeons’ Hall from May to October 2016

Individual, Group and Private Bookings ookings all welcomed welccomed

For Booking Enquiries please contact ntact ctt tthe he Slàinte Slà lài àin inte team inte tea eam m T: 0131 527 3434 E: slainte@surgeonshall.com @surgeonshhall hall.com com m W: www.slainte.scottishnights.com hnights.com The List Eating & Drinking Guide 95

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EDINBURGH

TABLE Talk

The Makar’s Rest 9 North Bank Street, Old Town See Bars & Pubs

McKirdy’s Steakhouse 151 Morrison Street, West End See Steakhouses & Burgers

Michael Neave Kitchen & Whisky Bar 21 Old Fishmarket Close, Old Town (Map 2A: D3, 90) 0131 226 4747, michaelneave. co.uk | Closed Sun/Mon | £9.95 (set lunch) / £28 (dinner)

CHRIS RUTTERFORD ON PAINTING COWS FOR A LIVING I have worked professionally in the art industry for well over 20 years, originally mainly as a magazine editorial illustrator. At a certain point in my career, I wanted to make the transition to larger, more ambitious artworks but I didn’t really feel any aspirations to be a ‘real’ artist and present my art within galleries. Working with restaurants and bars providing custom-made artwork for businesses is not second prize for me – it feels like a far more worthy venue for my type of art. Unexpectedly, I have developed a line in life-size cow painting. I also transform quarterly the landmark cow that resides at the west end of Princes Street for Kyloe restaurant. Kyloe estimates 30 people an hour stop to have their photo taken with the cow. My main speciality, however, is in murals. I’ve produced around ten in the last five years, most of which reside in cafés and restaurant spaces. Recently I painted a 16ft x 8ft mural for the newly launched Badger & Co. pub of the characters in Wind in the Willows. In the same week, I painted a 16-metre-long Jock octopus attacking a café in Glasgow. Artwork in the restaurant business is not just about icing the cake. It can have a transformative effect. In a competitive marketplace, bland solutions don’t offer any guarantee of success – they can make restaurants invisible. Spectacular artwork is a tried and tested technique to ensure public spaces have an edge in the marketplace. ■ Chris Rutterford is an artist specialising in creating work for public spaces. chrisrutterford.com

Isn’t it annoying when young folk achieve stuff you can only dream of before they’re even 25? Fortunately for talented Michael Neave, it hasn’t put his customers off. Settling down to peruse the menu over a pre-dinner drink in the whisky bar above the restaurant, it’s hard to believe this classy, mature and confident venue and menu has been created by one so young. Downstairs the modern, spacious restaurant offers distinctly Scottish dishes in a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere. West coast scallops make a strong and popular starter, and meat lovers won’t be disappointed if they follow that with a beautifully cooked Aberdeen-Angus steak set off with dauphinoise potatoes, and juicy, lightly grilled cherry vine tomatoes. A crisp-skinned, soft and flaky halibut fillet on a lightly seasoned shellfish bisque is ideal for those with a less ambitious appetite. Sticky toffee soufflé is set to impress for dessert, as is a sweet wee banana tarte tatin complemented by a rum and raisin Chantilly cream. + Good quality Scottish fare . . . - . . . which at times is more safe than creative

Monteiths 57–61 High Street, Old Town See Bistros & Brasseries

The Mussel and Steak Bar 110 West Bow, Grassmarket, Old Town See Fish

Seasons: memorable food and drink with Scottish-Scandi innovation

NEW New Chapter 18 Eyre Place, New Town (Map 1B: A2, 13) 0131 556 0006, newchapterrestaurant. co.uk | £9.50 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Since its opening at the end of 2015, New Chapter has established a loyal following by combining good quality produce, skilful cooking and a chilled ambience. The 35 cover upper section is a bright, welcoming space, with exposed brickwork and a cosy alcove with room for two tables. Downstairs features two private dining areas offering specially created group menus. Offering great value – particularly at lunchtime – means diners have flocked in and that this is one place where booking really is essential. The talent in the kitchen is evident in starters that showcase the quality of the ingredients – hand-dived Ullapool scallops combine with pork and black pudding terrine, curried apple and a cider foam to produce an exquisite balance of flavours. Fish options feature prominently among the mains, while beef cheek and ox tongue is enhanced by a bourguignon sauce. Desserts are a thing of beauty, but for the sweet-toothed diner, mandarin cake with chocolate orange ice-cream takes some beating. There are good wines offered by the glass or bottle to suit all budgets. + Exceptional value, particularly at lunch times - Peak times booked out several weeks in advance

NEW Norn 50–54 Henderson Street, Leith (Map 5A: C3, 26)

A new opening planned for May

2016, Norn is the project of chef Scott Smith in the venue vacated last year by the Plumed Horse. Having served time in restaurants including Geoff Smeddle’s Peat Inn, Smith has also worked in business in a bid to broaden his experience. His plan is to serve no-choice four and more course menus led by the daily offerings of small Scottish suppliers and foragers. It’ll be a relatively informal affair, with chefs serving tables and a bar top doubling up as the pass and an informal kitchen table. The name, Norn, evokes an ancient Norse-related language of the Northern Isles and northern Scotland – Smith, from Aberdeenshire, may have many plans keyed into the zeitgeist of modern Scottish cuisine, but is glad to evoke older inspirations from his homeland. [Not open for a full review at time of going to press – check list.co.uk/ food for updates.]

showcasing the skill of a chef who takes simple, high-quality ingredients to create a dish brimming with taste. Detail is also evident in mains such as wild turbot with salsify, bacon and oxtail ravioli where the meat and fish components are a blissful marriage of flavours. Dessert is another triumph, featuring options like Valrhona chocolate tart 2001 with praline and white chocolate – visually stunning and especially significant for head chef Brian Grigor. A good wine selection is available by the glass and bottles are priced from £30 (although the list does go up to four figures). Then, with coffee comes one final flourish – a petits fours trolley guaranteed to tempt even the most sated diner. + Service and cooking of a spectacularly high standard - Restaurant only open in the evening

No 11 Brasserie ✱ Number One 1 Princes Street, New Town (Map 2A: D1, 2) 0131 557 6727, roccofortehotels. com | £70 (dinner)

The man from Michelin doesn’t award stars lightly, so Number One’s guests are assured of a memorable experience – lasting up to four hours if you choose the tasting menu. Most tables are set along the sides of the richly decorated dining room, with banquette seating looking onto the airy space. The à la carte menu includes starters like hand-dived scallops embellished by peat-smoked haddock and leek oil,

11 Brunswick Street, Leith See Bistros & Brasseries

One Square 1 Festival Square, West End See Bistros & Brasseries

The Outsider 15–16 George IV Bridge, Old Town See Bistros & Brasseries

The Pantry 1–2 North West Circus Place, Stockbridge See Cafés

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EDINBURGH

Get seasonal suggestions Go to list.co.uk/food

The Pompadour by Galvin Caledonian Hotel, Princes Street, West End See French

The Printing Press Bar & Kitchen 21–25 George Street, New Town See Bistros & Brasseries

Purslane 33a St Stephen Street, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B2, 25) 0131 226 3500, purslanerestaurant.co.uk | No Kids (under 6) | Closed Mon | £14.95 (set lunch) / £25.95 (set dinner)

Villagey little Stockbridge is surprisingly sparse on fine dining establishments, so wee Purslane on arty St Stephen Street shines out. Chef Paul Gunning comes with impressive credentials from his training in Michelin star restaurants across the UK and France, and brings his own flair to good Scottish fare. This is evident on the exciting and good value six course tasting menu as well as a well-rounded à la carte. Starters from the latter include a soft pink duck breast on a shallot tarte tatin or a melt-in-the-mouth poached salmon with aubergine purée. Fish lovers may follow that with a lovely tangy and slightly spicy light bouillabaisse packed full of prawns, scallops, monkfish, sea bream and plenty of precisely cooked veg, or there’s a mouth-watering sweet and tender apricot and sage stuffed loin of pork. Desserts are beautifully presented, like a stripy tower of poached rhubarb and rosemary panacotta or an unusual fruity slice of carrot cake beautifully accompanied with a crèmefraîche sorbet. + Fine dining away without the exorbitant price tag - It’s small – expect to get to know your neighbours

The Raeburn 112 Raeburn Place, Stockbridge (Map 1A: A1, off) 0131 332 7000, theraeburn.com | £17 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

After many years of dereliction, the Raeburn Hotel was restored in 2015 and transformed into a boutique hotel. Alongside the well-stocked bar, outdoor terrace and private dining space, the restaurant was a main element of this reinvigoration. It’s a classy-looking space – a blend of bare stone walls, wooden floors and blue studded banquettes – catering predominantly to hotel guests and corporate groups and can therefore lack in atmosphere, even on busy week-nights. The menu reads well with gastropub faithfuls such as fish and chips, burgers and steaks sitting alongside Scottish seafood staples salmon, mussels and Cullen skink, however timing issues in the kitchen, as well as wavering quality of some key ingredients, can lead to disappointment. Afternoon tea is a popular choice and on Sundays there are brunch and roast options available. + A smart space for bigger groups - Some of the cooking isn’t as polished as the surroundings

Reekie’s Smokehouse 20 Holyrood Road, Old Town See Round the World

Restaurant Mark Greenaway

- The grandeur doesn’t create the most

69 North Castle Street, New Town (Map 1A: B4, 39) 0131 226 1155, markgreenaway.com | Closed Sun/Mon | £20 (set lunch) / £38 (dinner)

relaxed atmosphere

- If only it was open later in the evenings See also entry in Arts Venues & Attractions

Salt Café

The Scran & Scallie

54–56 Morningside Road, Southside See Bistros & Brasseries

1 Comely Bank Road, Stockbridge See Bars & Pubs

The Scottish Café and Restaurant

NEW Seasons

Restaurant Mark Greenaway attracts mixed reviews and responses: some are thrilled by it, some don’t get it, some are positively irked by aspects of the approach. The main dining space is smallish, a New Town drawing room with contemporary but not flamboyant design touches and upmarket dressed tables. At lunch and early evening there’s a very respectably priced Market Menu (£20 for two courses) which has glimpses of both the ingredients (well-sourced and Scottish, on the whole) and the elaborate presentation of the main à la carte. Full immersion, in the form of an eight-course tasting menu, is north of £60, with paired wines taking it to £100. Ambitious, showy, intricate and certainly distinctive, Greenaway uses dramatic colour, twists, tricks and intriguingly engineered gadgets and crockery to deliver his dishes, with waiters providing instructions and explanations along the way. You may encounter egg boxes, lab flasks and bits of tree, as well as sometimes overegged branding, such as Mark’s Winter Vegetable Garden and Mark’s Chocolate Roks and Moss. Moments of memorable tastes (a truffle custard, a percolation of oxtail broth) are mixed with others that are much harder to catch, a high-wire culinary journey that reaches a firmer platform in desserts, where Greenaway’s creative enthusiasm and imagination feels best showcased. Offering an alternative, private option for groups of six to 16 is the new, intimate Balvenie Room, while a chunky hardback recipe book by Greenaway full of stunning-looking dishes, Perceptions, is due out in summer 2016. + An exciting antidote for those done with Scottish sameyness or foraged frugality - More personality than personal touch

National Gallery of Scotland, The Mound, New Town (Map 2A: B1, 1) 0131 226 6524, thescottishcafeandrestaurant.com | £15.95 (set lunch)

This country is blessed with a bountiful backyard – a great resource ripe for a plundering. The Contini family are fully aware of this. Underneath the National Gallery, their pantheon to all things seasonal, sustainable and Scottish is all about great quality local ingredients sourced from small suppliers – all neatly pinpointed on the large map of Scotland propped up at the entrance – as well as from their own plentiful kitchen garden. All pine, pillars and traditional textiles, this bright, airy, split-level restaurant mirrors the sophistication of its food ethos, and there are some real high points on their seasonally-changing set-lunch menu. Moreish breaded haggis is nicely complemented by a silky celeriac purée and piquant pickled turnip, while homesmoked pigeon breast perched on a thyme potato rosti is faultlessly cooked, with a sherry vinegar dressing packing a punch. Pan-fried cod sits on a bed of root vegetables, circled by a moat of delicate saffron broth and Lochleven mussels. Afternoon tea and Sunday roast menus are popular alternatives and can, alongside lunch options, be enjoyed outside during warmer months. + Passion and enthusiasm for well-sourced food, matched quality cooking

36 Broughton Street, New Town (Map 1B: C4, 24) 0131 466 9851, seasonstasting. co.uk | Closed Mon/Tues | £18.50 (set lunch) / £30 (set dinner)

Opening at the tail-end of 2015, Seasons is further evidence of the ongoing reinvention of the capital’s Scottish restaurant scene. There’s no haggis, neeps and tatties on the menu here: only fresh, seasonal ingredients sourced from small suppliers and foragers in Scotland and Scandinavia. These are all listed on a neat little scroll, from which Swedish chef Alex delivers ever-changing five, seven or ten course tasting menus, with inventive drink pairings an optional extra. The Scandi influence isn’t limited to the kitchen; the restaurant itself is, by design, floor to ceiling pine. (You expect at any moment to be smacked with a handful of birch twigs.) ‘Toast skagen’ – salty smoked shrimp with pickled red onion, garlic aioli, sourdough crisps and a playful dill meringue is a triumph, an additional fishy hit delivered by a smattering of herring roe, while seared hand-dived scallops combine harmoniously with spiced lentils, squash, crispy seaweed and foraged sea herbs. White chocolate ganache and a delicate red wine-poached pear nestle within a bed of almost savoury pomegranate and seed granola to produce another in a procession of inventive, enticing dishes. + A genuinely exciting culinary experience - You’ll be too full for a nightcap in the basement bar

See the Table Talk feature on p.26 for more about Restaurant Mark Greenaway’s tableware designer Will McEvoy

Restaurant Martin Wishart 54 The Shore, Leith See French

Rhubarb Prestonfield House, Priestfield Road, Southside (Map 3C: E5, off) 0131 662 2211, prestonfield.com | £20 (set lunch) / £52 (dinner)

If Walter Scott was dating Jane Austen, you might just see them sitting by the window overlooking the beautiful garden of this grand Georgian dining room. Panelled walls, a huge chandelier and Regency portraits are a backdrop to deep-red velour chairs and thick, white tablecloths laid with silver cutlery and candlesticks. It all delivers the opulent interiors people have come to expect of James Thomson’s hotels and restaurants. The effect is mirrored by a menu of quality ingredients, all presented like works of art. A duck terrine with a scoop of fois gras starter is decorated with teardrops of port jelly and macerated kumquats. A roast shoulder of Iberico pork with a smoked ham croquette is accompanied by marbles of neeps and Granny Smith apple. Meanwhile, vegetarians may follow an applewood smoked cheese starter with an elegant glass of mushroom parfait topped with truffled leek. There’s a lot going on to create the wow factor here, but a consistent theme holds it together well. Finish up with an exquisitely frilly caramelised banana bread and a post-prandial coffee in the simply awesome tapestry room upstairs. + Imagining you’re Elizabeth Bennet or Mr Darcy

Located in the heart of Edinburgh’s New Town, The Magnum Restauraunt & Bar prides itself on combining Scotland’s best local ingredients with a mixture of classic and contemporary flavours, providing warm and welcoming surroundings, an appetising lunch and dinner menu offering Scottish dishes, as well as featuring fresh seasonal game and seafood.

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Stac Polly 29–33 Dublin Street, New Town (Map 1B: B4, 65) 0131 556 2231, stacpolly.com | £15.90 (set lunch) / £32 (dinner)

This rustic Alpine style restaurant with terracotta flooring, stone walls and oldfashioned prints on the walls offers a cosy contrast to the stylishness of the New Town above. It’s a popular spot with tourists, offering up a traditional menu complete with typical Scottish ingredients that include scallops, Loch Fyne oysters, lamb and beef. It’s not too bad for vegetarians either, with a couple of starters to choose from including a healthy-sized, but not particularly flavoursome, vegetable cake in breadcrumbs with a red onion, coriander and lemon salsa. Bite-sized baked filo parcels of haggis are a good starter for those looking to dip their toe into Scotland’s famed traditional dish. Mains are a step up with a tasty red quinoa and fennel stew rather oddly accompanied by steamed broccoli, roast potatoes and a blood-orange aioli, while the dish of the house is a well-cooked pink in the middle fillet of Aberdeen-Angus beef. Desserts are a mixed bag: the highlight is an enormous dark chocolate teardrop, bursting at the seams with a strawberry and mascarpone mousse. + Uncomplicated, traditional typical Scottish dishes - It’s beginning to look a little 1990s

Steak 14 Picardy Place, New Town See Steakhouses & Burgers

Timberyard: a prime location for professionally presented and impeccably sourced food and drink

what’s on the plate. This is fine dining, capable of competing with the big guns in town; ideal for those who like fancy food but get irritated by the accompanying layers of fancy service. It’s also worth doing a quick sum and realising that, with only 50 spots on the stools available per week, booking ahead is essential. Currently BYOB only. + A new concept for fine dining - Trying to get a spot on the stool

Steak on Stones 12 Picardy Place, New Town See Steakhouses & Burgers

The Stockbridge Restaurant 54 St Stephen Street, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B2, 23) 0131 226 6766, thestockbridgerestaurant.co.uk | Closed Mon | £30 (dinner)

It’s tucked away at basement level in a side street off the main cobbled thoroughfare, but that hasn’t stopped the Stockbridge Restaurant harvesting numerous accolades in the 12 years since chef/owner Jason Gallagher took the helm. Countering the impact of dark, exposed brick, two large mirrors create a feeling of space and large prints of works by the Edinburgh colourists adorn the walls. The art extends to the kitchen, which delivers a stylish fixed price menu – with BYOB on Sundays replacing a substantial wine list categorised by style rather than region – and à la carte options. A delicate amuse-bouche precedes starters such as discs of moist pork belly, cheeks and fillet, enhanced by diced black pudding and sweet potato purée. Mains could feature flavour-packed duck breast with confit leg, fondant potatoes, mushrooms and Savoy cabbage which showcase the chef’s skills. A pre-dessert comes before a twist on perennial favourites including banana tarte tatin: six chunks of scorched fruit, served on end in a pastry case and accompanied by a butterscotch sauce that will satisfy even the sweetest tooth. + Clever presentation of traditional Scottish classics - Lunchtime opening by prior arrangement only

NEW The Table 3a Dundas Street, New Town (Map 1A: D3, 37) 0131 281 1689, thetableedinburgh. com | Closed Sun/Mon | £60 (set dinner)

It’s a simple enough concept – a paredback dining room with ten seats round a communal bar top open to the kitchen area, a single sitting and plenty of time to talk to the chefs as they prepare your food. What’s interesting about Sean Clark’s new venture is that, while the approach feels casual, there’s nothing laid-back about

✱ Timberyard 10 Lady Lawson Street, West End (Map 4: D1, 29) 0131 221 1222, timberyard.co | Closed Sun/Mon | £30 (set lunch) / £55 (set dinner)

Timberyard is the Radford family’s conversion of a big old brick warehouse and former timberyard – hence the name. The vibe is post-hipster, post-industrial, gentrified dockland district: timber, timber everywhere; hefty bare white tables; tree trunks for drinks stands. By night, low lighting brings surprising intimacy for the size, while the private dining ‘shed’ is particularly snug. The Radford ethos is laudable: what’s not home-grown, smoked or hung is spotlessly sourced. Each dish on a variety of tasting menus comprises a list of always artfully arranged, often intriguing, ingredients – a lexicon of foraged foodstuffs from knotroot to woodruff. So, after lashings of creamed Crowdie butter on freshly-baked bread, there’s mackerel, horseradish, buttermilk, cucumber and apple. There could be duck – confit and breast – with elderberry, beetroot, mushroom and chard; or beautifully pink lamb, celeriac, shallot, kale and treacle-like black garlic. Finish with sea buckthorn, buttermilk and crowdie, wash it all down with organic wine or a couple of cracking cocktails, and hear the appreciation of your constitution, for it is, indubitably, all good. + Home produce and unquestionably faultless sourcing - No choice of dessert on four and sixcourse menus

Tower Restaurant National Museum of Scotland, Chambers Street, Old Town (Map 2A: C4, 50) 0131 225 3003, tower-restaurant.com | £18.95 (set lunch) / £38 (dinner)

There’s a knowingly civilised air about the Tower Restaurant, reminding diners that below this long, stylish room of tiled columns, cleverly spot-lit tables and artistically-designed seating, a similar atmosphere holds sway in the multifarious galleries of the National Museum of Scotland. Daily brunch and afternoon tea menus are popular ways

to enjoy spectacular views of the castle, especially from the rooftop seating area during the warmer months. The à la carte and set menus showcase the very best that Scotland has to offer with lamb, game, Aberdeen-Angus beef and an abundance of seafood options. A generous crab and prawn cocktail, piled high with crab meat, is delicate yet flavoursome, while lobster thermidor, served simply with chunky hand-cut chips, and scallop dishes use fresh west coast seafood available. The scallops are pan-seared expertly and paired with crispy ham and skordalia potatoes, although the accompanying bouillabaisse sauce isn’t quite as refined. A peanut butter parfait with chocolate sauce and salted caramel popcorn is elegantly decadent – a classy way to end a classy meal. + A sophisticated, stylish setting – and what a view! - Ethical sourcing doesn’t always come cheap

The Turquoise Thistle Hotel Indigo, 51–59 York Place, New Town See Bistros & Brasseries

Twenty Princes Street Grill & Smokehouse 20 Princes Street, City Centre (Map 1B: B6, 52) 0131 556 4901, twentyprincesstreet.co.uk | £20 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Twenty Princes Street blends old and new, modernising the grand old Royal British Hotel’s Victorian ballroom with leather and walnut booths and shiny marble tables. Suave, slick waiters top up sparkling cut-glass tumblers for tourists and business travellers in black suits and dresses, while chef Tony Sarton’s interesting and inventive menu also blends old and new. A Scottish brown crab is artfully deconstructed as tea and toast: the shell turned into a pot of strong, sea-salty broth; the brown meat into delicate mousse; the white into a creamy, refreshing parfait to spread on a tiny bread loaf. Glass cloches are lifted in a puff and huff of hickory smoke to reveal tender, blood-red Border beef carpaccio, softboiled quails’ eggs, pickled walnuts and crunchy baby onion rings – theatrical and fun. More traditional mains also shine: a well-seasoned, succulent ribeye steak is seared to 450˚C in the much-vaunted charcoal-fuelled Josper grill and oven, while a sublime seafood box of half lobster with scallops, mussels, cockles and fresh, sweet langoustine is cracking value. Finally a fragrant basil sorbet, strawberry jelly and balsamic reduction, makes you want to come back for more. + Fluffy, crispy triple-cooked chips

- Sweet ale gravy diminished a sublime

steak

The Walnut 9 Croall Place, Leith Walk, Leith See Bistros & Brasseries

Wedgwood the Restaurant 267 Canongate, Old Town (Map 2B: B3, 27) 0131 558 8737, wedgwoodtherestaurant. co.uk | £12.95 (set lunch) / £28 (dinner)

There’s nothing unusual about bread and butter pudding with ice-cream appearing on a menu. But when it’s listed among the starters you know this is a chef with imagination. Paul Wedgwood’s iteration features Isle of Mull cheddar and onion, while fennel is the dominant flavour in the ice-cream. Mains are another opportunity for the boss to show skills honed in the decade since he took the reins of this two-level establishment – a frequent award winner – which has been decorated in subtle homage to nature and the owner’s passion for foraging. A wine list with a lower mark-up than many similar establishments is another draw for diners including tourists and year-round regulars, who feast on mains such as three identically sized cylinders of tender rabbit which come neatly wrapped in pancetta and enhanced by chestnuts, barley, mushrooms and carrot purée. On the dessert list, a moist butternut squash cake with spiced pear and rosemary ice-cream is another playful deception of the taste buds by a chef at the peak of his powers. + Cleverly crafted food and a wine list covering all price points - Deciding between the naturally lit upstairs or more formal downstairs

NEW The Wee Restaurant Edinburgh 61 Frederick Street, City Centre (Map 1A: C4, 76) 0131 225 7893, theweerestaurant. co.uk

A decade on from launching one of Fife’s favourite dining spots – North Queensferry’s Wee Restaurant – chefproprietor Craig Wood is crossing the Forth to open a sister venue in the city centre. Heading up the new kitchen on Frederick Street, in the premises previously home to Fleur de Sel, is Wood’s former colleague Michael Innes, who returns to the capital after a spell in Girona at the much-lauded El Celler de Can Roca as head of production. Expect an extension of the original venue’s ethos, rather than a whole new direction, with a continued focus on great ingredients and simple, well-executed cooking. [Not open for a full review at time of going to press – check list.co.uk/food for updates.]

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Whiski Rooms 4, 6 & 7 North Bank Street, Old Town (Map 2A: C2, 20) 0131 225 7224, whiskirooms. co.uk | £19 (lunch) / £25 (dinner)

Whiski Rooms by name; whisky rooms by nature. A triumvirate of rooms in fact – a shop, tasting chamber, and welcoming restaurant, dedicated to championing this iconic Scottish spirit from atop The Mound. Framed distillery advertisements from days gone by adorn the exposed brick walls, with assorted Scottish paraphernalia decorating the rest of the dark wooden interior. Catering to tourists and patriotic locals alike, the menu focuses on unpretentious Scottish fare, such as starters of haggis spring rolls, Cullen skink and cured salmon, though a main of slow-cooked lamb shoulder with potato fondant is energised by a particularly unScottish olive tapenade. Whisky sauces and chutneys are key components of the popular steak and burger dishes, while whisky pairings are recommended for choices like steak and ale pie and the ubiquitous haggis, neeps and tatties. Desserts aren’t left out of this whisky-fest – the inventively deconstructed cranachan still delivering that traditional boozy back note. For non-whisky drinkers there is a nicely varied wine list and an ample range of Williams Bros beer on offer. + If you love whisky you can’t go wrong - The food might not excite more adventurous palates

Wildfire Scottish Steak & Seafood Bistro 192 Rose Street, New Town See Steakhouses & Burgers

The Witchery by the Castle Castlehill, Royal Mile, Old Town (Map 2A: B2, 33) 0131 225 5613, thewitchery.com | £18.95 (set lunch) / £40 (dinner)

History abounds in this 16th-century Castlehill house, where King James VI burnt hundreds of women for witchery. Through a heraldic Royal Mile close a single menu serves two theatrical, gothic dining rooms. Down a stone staircase, under a painted ceiling of bagpipe-toting cherubs, sits the civilised and sun-lit Secret Garden, built on an abandoned schoolyard. Upstairs lurks The Witchery – a medieval feasting den where candlelight sparkles on silverware, crystal, crimson leather and oak salvaged from a Burgundy chateau. The auld alliance continues with the grand cellar, cheeseboard and menus. Impeccably smart, discreet waiters serve elegant, excellent (expensive) Argyll oysters Rockefeller, Buckie crab, Cairngorm venison, aged Border ribeye, followed by trifle and l’opera gateaux. A £35 three course table d’hote features slightly humbler delicacies like terrine of duck confit, apple jelly and gingerbread, and a chocolate orange marquise, arabica and vanilla anglaise, and espresso jelly. A good-value two course lunch and pretheatre menu features the like of Iberico charcuterie, pea velouté and truffled mac and cheese. + The best steak in town . . . - . . . and it should be for £38

Got a group to book? Check out our Tiplists on pages 9–11 Find Tiplists on other topics through the guide and online

SPANISH Spain’s food is based round its regions, so it makes sense that Edinburgh’s selection of Spanish restaurants showcase produce and cooking styles from all corners of the country. Andalusia is well represented in a couple of small, family-run restaurants as well as in the larger chains, while produce and influences from Galicia, Castile, Valencia, Madrid are also in evidence. With some restaurants offering a more modern take on tapas and others opting for the menu and style of a traditional bodega, there’s lots to choose from – usually accompanied by a fine selection of Spanish wine, beer and sherry. Reviewers: Sylvie Docherty, Louise Donoghue, Yana Thandrayen

Stepping into Goya23 is like stepping into another age, yet with all the luxuries of the 21st century. The interior is polished, with rustic touches on display like the decorative Spanish tiles embedded in the imposing, dark-grained counter. As purveyors of fine Spanish products, the shelves are stacked high with tempting delicacies, many of which are available to enjoy on the premises. To the rear, there is a seating area with a few tables and a heavy, butcher’s block-style dining bench. Prop yourself on one of the high stools and enjoy a glass of cava with some tapas, or one of the casked sherries with a platter of the shop’s prideand-joy – the jamón Ibérico. Try the oleic acid-rich Acorn Reserve, aged for over 36 months, which arrives with artisan bread and melts on the tongue. Add some cheese and dulce de membrillo drizzled with olive oil, and you could quite easily forget where you are. + The best of Spain on your doorstep - Dealing with the Edinburgh weather when you finally step outside

✱ HITLIST

SPANISH ✱ Rafael’s Soul food Spanishstyle in this no frills, no fuss, homely Stockbridge eatery. ✱ Tapa Great selection of tapas from around Spain using wellsourced ingredients.

Malvarosa Café Andaluz 77b George Street, New Town (Map 1A: C5, 61) 0131 220 9980, cafeandaluz.com | £14.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

A popular George Street haunt, Café Andaluz is part of a chain of Spanish eateries with branches across Scotland. Their Edinburgh base, with opulent Moorish-style décor of dark woods, mosaic tiles, large vases and even a statue of a bull about to charge, aims to transport you to a tapas bar in Southern Spain. The menu is often revised but popular dishes such as tortilla española, honey and mustard chicken, or their meat, fish, shellfish or seafood paellas (for two) remain. Unsurprisingly, there’s a mixture of tapas staples – calamares are good with a twist of chorizo mayonnaise, pimientos de padron (small green peppers with sea salt) are moreish and tasty, and their churros (hot doughnut sticks with a hot chocolate dip) are a delight. Other dishes don’t quite hit the mark, and while there are moments of authenticity here but also telling indications that you’re in a chain restaurant. + Great churros - Large groups can dominate the space

El Quijote 13a Brougham Street, Tollcross (Map 3A: C1, 5) 0131 478 2856, quijotetapas.co.uk | Closed Mon/Tue | £18 (dinner)

In 2010, a group of friends from Seville with experience in the catering industries in Spain and Scotland, decided to set up their own place in a bustling Tollcross street full of restaurants. The result is El Quijote, offering tapas characteristic of southern Spain. The space is cosy, the welcome warm and the service very laidback (sometimes in the extreme), with a menu offering dishes in tapas or main meal sizes. Wild mushroom croquettes are served with a three-cheese sauce or melt-in-the- mouth Iberian pork cheeks in a vegetable stew. End with tarta de Santiago, a traditional almond cake from Galicia made with a recipe dating back to the Middle Ages, or a flan dessert with caramel custard. Mixed platters of cheeses and meats, using imported specialities from Spain alongside local Scottish produce, are worth checking out, as is the carefully selected wine list. + Authentic dishes from Southern Spain - Not the place if you’re in a hurry

262 Portobello High Street, Portobello (Map 5B: C5, off) 0131 669 7711, malvarosa.co.uk | Closed Mon/Tue | £8.40 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Malvarosa is a lesson in how to create a vibrant neighbourhood restaurant; Alvaro Bernabeu greets everyone with a warm welcome and seems to know most of his diners personally. Most importantly, it serves food you really want to eat and come back for again and again, as shown by the steady stream of Portobello locals filling up the tables. Great care is taken with all aspects of the menu; the bread is made on site and flecked with chorizo or olives. Sourcing is mostly local with the exception of some specialist Spanish products such as cured hams and cheeses. The tapas span many regions of Spain from the smoky fabada bean stew of Asturias in the north to lightly spiced haddock cooked in an Andalucían style, enlivened with the tang of sherry vinegar. Vegetable tapas are particularly good such as the meltingly soft baked aubergine. Delicious paellas have that all-important crust on the base, the rice retaining a good bite. There’s a concise but decent selection of Spanish wines to choose from too. + The friendly vibe and good Spanish food - Very busy on weekend evenings so booking’s essential

✱ Rafael’s 2 Deanhaugh Street, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B2, 17) 0131 332 1469, rafaels-bistro. wikidot.com | Closed Sun/Mon | £22.50 (set dinner)

Beavering away in the small kitchen

at the back of this Stockbridge eatery is the eponymous chef and owner of Rafael’s Bistro. Here is a man with talent and cheer, who left his native Spain many years ago to set up shop in Edinburgh. With passion in spades and a clear love for what he does, Rafael serves up simple, well-executed and unpretentious food in cosy surroundings, with calm guitar music setting the mood. Dishes change daily and are presented on a chalked-up blackboard, the man himself eager to talk you through the choices. Standouts include a small, perfectly seasoned vegetable stew starter, his mother’s divine recipe of chicken wrapped in serrano ham with port sauce, or a brie and leek Wellington. Team any of these with a glass of the valuefor-money house red and you’re on to a winner. A welcome side of vegetables arrives to accompany all mains and keep your fingers crossed that the warm chocolate tart is on offer when you visit – it really is something else. Leave feeling happy, relaxed, and just the right side of full. + Lovely welcome, lovely homemade Spanish grub to match - You’ll want to return, but may need to book ahead

Serrano Manchego 297 Leith Walk, Leith (Map 5B: A3, 14) 0131 554 0955, serranomanchego.co.uk | £25 (lunch) / £25 (dinner)

After the tram work cloud that hung over the area for a couple of years, Serrano Manchego is one of a handful of relative newcomers contributing to Leith Walk’s

Goya23 30 North West Circus Place, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B2, 28) 0131 220 0984, goya23.co.uk | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

11 BRUNTSFIELD PLACE, EDINBURGH, EH10 4HN

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rebirth as a going-out destination. It’s big, bright and busy, with large windows looking out onto the street from the simple, stylish tapas bar within. The vibe is modern and youthful, a contemporary take on a traditional Spanish institution. Catering to its Scottish clientele, there’s table service by some very enthusiastic and knowledgeable Spanish staff. It excels in giving its customers wellchosen, quality produce (think hams, cheeses and olives) rather than being about flashy cooking, with food coming from all corners of Spain rather than favouring a particular region. Tuck into the likes of croquettes, fried squid or a notable grilled cod in a pepper and tomato sauce. With its excellent wine and sherry list, you could just drop in for a drink and a few nibbles, although once you start, you might not want to stop. + Stylish and modern, a great hang out - Can be noisy at weekends

✱ Tapa 19 Shore Place, Leith (Map 5A: C2, 20) 0131 476 6776, tapaedinburgh.co.uk | £15 for two (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Evoking the tastes of the best tapas from across Spain, the team behind Tapa demonstrate a real passion to bring authentic and unusual dishes to Edinburgh. Cuts of pork (from the Iberian black pig) rarely used here, such as presa and the buttery rich secreto, are deftly griddled to retain the full flavour of the meat. The cooking is contemporary with reductions and salsas decorating the plates. Vegetarians won’t be disappointed with innovative creations like the popular berenjenas con miel, melting slices of aubergine covered in light batter and drizzled with honey. Portion sizes are large, think raciones rather than traditional tapas, although there is a range of bite-sized cured meats and cheeses to whet the appetite. The low hum of chatter as people share food adds a convivial atmosphere. Set in a 19thcentury bonded warehouse, it’s a grand space with white walls broken up with colourful posters, the overall feel one of modern stylishness. Great care is also taken over the drinks selection, with an exciting range of Spanish gins alongside the sherrys and Spanish wines. + High quality and unusual tapas - To try everything, you might need a group

Tápame 19–20 Teviot Place, Old Town (Map 2A: C4, 61) 0131 220 6804, tapame.co.uk | £7.50 (set lunch) / £11 (dinner)

The dark-wood interior of this unassuming little tapas/mezze bar is a far cry from its former incarnation as the diner-esque, Favorit. The pick-n-mix selection of Spanish and Greek dishes covers the full spectrum of vegetable, seafood and meat bases. A bowl of fat, salty olives and toasted bread topped with tomato is a good place to start. Fans of the potato are in luck, with classic patatas bravas on offer or tatties done Greekstyle with oregano and grated kefalotyri cheese. The house salad is a fresh fusion of serrano ham, almonds, oranges and peppers while bakaliaros (battered salt cod) has a nice crisp exterior, the fish falling apart as you bite into it, with a beautifully garlicky sauce on the side. A stack of spanakopita, meanwhile, has a deliciously delicate minty flavour. For tapas, these are generous portions and, though there’s not a huge choice, the options are tasty and well executed. There’s a value for money lunch deal too, perfect for time-poor hungry shoppers, office workers or tourists. + The open kitchen turning out moreish food - Toilets are down a steep set of stairs

STEAKHOUSES & BURGER BARS Edinburgh’s love of a meat feast shows no signs of slowing down. Pleasingly though, a continued emphasis on sourcing means lots of restaurants are getting behind Scottish producers – and quite right too. Steak remains a perennial favourite and the gourmet burger is no newcomer either, but there’s a lot going on round the edges. From hard shakes, stacked burgers and chilli fries to dripping chips, dryaging and Josper grills, there’s enough that’s new to tempt all palates, from the upmarket to the down and dirty. It’s a crowded market; who’s raising the stakes? Reviewers: Cat Crawford, Elaine Reid

Bell’s Diner 7 St Stephen Street, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B2, 27) 0131 225 8116, bellsdineredinburgh.com | £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

When you find a restaurant where generations of families return regularly you know you’ve found a gem. Bell’s Diner has been serving up epic burgers since 1972 and long may this Edinburgh institution continue. Located in Stockbridge, it has a wonderfully cosy and welcoming interior with simple wooden tables and ruby red walls. A blackboard announces a host of specials and a friendly waitress effortlessly buzzes around ensuring everyone is well cared for. To start, the mushroom soup of the day is thick and creamy while the pâté comes with a generous pile of oatcakes. But the main event is the burgers, with a variety of sizes from the 4oz for kids right up to a belly-busting 8oz for the ravenous. They’re served with or without bun, with a side salad and a pleasingly large pile of fries. To finish, desserts are well worth leaving room for – pancakes served with chocolate sauce and ice-cream are a particular delight. Only problem: it gets busy, so be sure to book ahead. + Friendly, attentive staff - It’s tricky to get in without booking ahead

NEW Belted 57A Frederick Street, New Town (Map 1A: C4, 75) 0131 260 9748, beltedburgers. co.uk | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

At Belted it’s all about the beef – Belted Galloway beef from Dumfries and Galloway to be more specific. Following the success of their Carlisle branch and fully traceable field-to-fork principles, the family-owned Belted comes to Edinburgh in spring 2016, laying down stakes in the old Ciceri & Sons workshop on Frederick Street. The underground venue features exposed brickwork, Edison lightbulbs and several humorous nods to the iconic black and white cows on the family farm. Clearly proud of their Scottish heritage, the menu includes haggis balls with whisky mayo and the Bru Burger which sees pulled pork slow-cooked in Irn-Bru with BBQ sauce, atop 100% prime Scottish beef. There are chicken, vegetarian, and gluten-free options as well as the very familyfriendly offer of complimentary Ella’s Kitchen baby food. When all the eating is done, you can sidle over to the Pen Bar to enjoy one of the many local craft

beers, ciders, draughts and cocktails on offer. [Not open for a full review at time of going to press – check list.co.uk/food for updates.]

Blackwood’s Bar and Grill Nira Caledonia, 10 Gloucester Place, New Town See Scottish

The Boozy Cow 17 Frederick Street, New Town (Map 1A: C5, 63) 0131 226 6055, boozycow.com | No Kids (under 5) | £20 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

From the red-lit, cage locker entrance to the low-slung, graffiti-plastered interior, there’s a murky aesthetic to Boozy Cow playfully reminiscent of a nefarious subterranean movie bar where you just know someone will come to a bad end. But despite its prison-slang neonsignage, blood-drenched kitchen window and hipster paint-job, nothing here is taking itself too seriously; it’s all geared to provoke you into having a good time. The menu’s pure dude food; served on trays to share, you’re invited to pile it high and get down and dirty with your hands (cutlery on request). Come in for weekly live music and DJs or prop up the bar and shoot the breeze with cocktailslinging bartenders – there’s certainly plenty to talk about. With cocktails ranging from the peanut butter-infused bourbon PB&J to the Bacardi, lime and Irn-Bru reduction Disco Bru, it’s part funked-up Deep South classics, part student party pre-loading, but it’s hard not to be seduced by the sheer fun of a cocktail in a customised tin with a flying saucer on top. + All profits go to local kids charities - Even the pickles are deep-fried

NEW Bread Meats Bread 92 Lothian Road, Tollcross (Map 4: C2, 40) 0131 225 3000, breadmeatsbread. com | £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

Bread Meats Bread on Lothian Road, next to the Filmhouse, is the latest in a string of gourmet burger joints taking Edinburgh by storm. The interior is smart, modern and filled with copper lights and lightbulb signs, creating a young, trendy feel. The restaurant audibly bustles (this isn’t a good place to come for a quiet chat) as steam rises from the open-plan kitchen and groups laugh and catch up over a tasty bite to eat. There’s a smart nod to Edinburgh here with the burger names ranging from Sunshine on Beef to the epic Lothian Wolf with cheese, bacon and the gorgeous pulled-pork topping rising high above the locally sourced beef. For sides, there’s a hefty selection from buffalo fries to squeaky fried cheese or classic poutine (chips, cheese curds and gravy) which come in generous portions, so don’t over-order. The restaurant doesn’t take bookings and does get busy but the service is swift so you shouldn’t have to wait too long to grab a table and tuck in. + The incredible burger toppings - Tables are packed together

✱ Buffalo 12–14 Chapel Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D5, 69) 0131 667 7427, buffalogrill.co.uk | £12 (lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Having been a key landmark on the Edinburgh steak and burger scene as Buffalo Grill since 1986, loyal diners might have been alarmed by the restaurant’s recent sale in 2015. But fear not, the iconic eatery in Chapel Street (but not Stockbridge) is back with new owners, a fresh, modern interior, invigorated menu and a slight name change. Black-and-white Native American prints hang on the mellow walls in this friendly and inviting

restaurant where the temptation is to linger long after your meal has finished. Reassuringly, customers regular to Buffalo Grill will recognise that firm favourites remain including their beautiful locally sourced teriyakirump steak served with a sublime wild mushroom and tarragon sauce. The burgers are incredibly tasty too, especially when topped with their blue Monday cheese, wrapped in a springy brioche bun and accompanied by chips. To finish delve into their divine Dime bar cake or crêpes with banana liquor. Grab one of the window booths if you can (book ahead, you have been warned) and enjoy. + The friendly, welcoming feel of the place - If you’re looking for über-trendy burger bars, this isn’t for you

Burger • 94a Fountainbridge, Tollcross (Map 4: C3, 51) 0131 228 5367 • 91–93 Shandwick Place, West End (Map 4: B1, 24) 0131 228 1429, burgeruk. co.uk | £9 (lunch) / £9 (dinner)

With a philosophy of sourcing produce locally, from their tasty brioche buns to their Stirlingshire beef, Burger are updating the fast food experience. The interior has a trendy diner feel to it, with wooden tables, teal-green seats and upbeat music on the stereo. It’s great to find dairy and gluten-free options on offer combined with an ethical hat: all their packaging is 100% recyclable. With branches in both Fountainbridge and Shandwick Place, you’ll find an enticing selection of toppings and sauces to let you build your own unique burger or hot dog creation – from beef chilli to spiced black beans to grilled onions. Combine that with the wealth of sides on offer from cheese fries to chipotle slaw and you’ll find yourself with a table covered in bowls and sauce pots, and perhaps longing for a plate rather than just a metal tray. Take advantage of the specials which change every two weeks and try the homemade milkshakes (also available with a choice of toppings) which are thick, tasty and indulgent. + The wealth of topping and side options on offer - The chipotle slaw is a little overwhelming, even between two

✱ Burger Meats Bun 1 Forth Street, New Town (Map 1B: C5, 29) 0131 556 7023, burger-meats-bun. co.uk | Closed Mon | £10 (set lunch) / £11 (dinner)

Sitting on Forth Street, Burger Meats Bun is the perfect place to satisfy your burger craving. The tables here are well spaced and there’s a lovely laidback feel to the place. Keeping things refreshingly simple, the menu offers a concise number of options using locally sourced ingredients, with beef from The Aberfoyle Butcher to free-range chicken from Gartmorn Farm. Options include the epic Big Cheese, Chic Chic Chicken and Nae Meat burgers, all served with or without a tasty brioche bun. To accompany, there’s a choice of sides from sea-salted, triple-cooked fries to a creamy bowl of slaw. Be sure to try the thick milkshakes or one of their cocktails, with the Buck (gin, lime juice and ginger ale) providing a wonderfully tangy accompaniment to the food. Having been around a couple of years, the service here is smooth and the experience slick, from the paper towels on each table to mop up the flavoursome BMB sauce to the welcome sight of forks and knives, too often left behind in the modern gourmet burger joint. + The juicy, tasty burgers - The menu may be a bit neat for some

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EDINBURGH

NEW Field Grill House 1 Raeburn Place, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B1, 10) 0131 332 9977, fieldgrillhouse. co.uk | No Kids (under 5) | Closed Sun/ Mon | £13 (set lunch) / £26 (dinner)

Nestled amid Stockbridge’s bustling main thoroughfare sits relative newcomer Field Grill House (opened autumn 2015), sister restaurant to the Southside’s Field. The L-shaped layout holds a number of dark wooden tables, contrasting against the neutral sage green wood panel walls. The seasonally changing à la carte menu offers an array of innovative and inviting dishes including goats cheese panacotta with walnut crumb, truffled honey, apple and goat’s cheese beignet to start (yes, that is all just one dish). For mains, there is a focus on their succulent, locally sourced, 35-days aged steak served with a portobello mushroom, bursting red tomato and your choice of sauce and side. To accompany, chips are wellseasoned and comfortingly fluffy, while carrots roasted in honey and sesame seeds are a delight. Don’t fancy steak? There are a number of equally appealing options from roast cod to duck. To finish, the baked Alaska is visually impressive – beautiful crown-like spikes concealing a melting sorbet. With an extensive wine list in its armour, it’s worth planning ahead and organising a taxi home. + The lyrical and intriguing menu - Your wallet will feel a bit light by the end of the night

Frontier Restaurant 8 Gillespie Place, Tollcross See Round the World

✱ HITLIST

STEAKS & BURGERS ✱ Buffalo Back in a big way – expect superb steaks and gourmet burgers from this re-invigorated reliable. ✱ Burger Meats Bun Locally sourced ingredients and a menu aimed at quality over quantity equals some of the capital’s best burgers and fries. ✱ Steak Sophisticated city centre dining and sublime Donald Russell steaks served in an impressive, cavernous interior. ✱ Wannaburger Early adopters of the quality fast food format, this independent, family-friendly joint serves tasty burgers and shakes with a smile.

Kyloe Restaurant & Grill The Rutland Hotel, 1–3 Rutland Street, West End (Map 4: B1, 20) 0131 229 3402, kyloerestaurant.com | £34 (lunch) / £34 (dinner)

Kyloe Restaurant & Grill: where the cow is king at the West End

NEW Byron

Charwood

29–31 North Bridge, Old Town (Map 2B: A2, 5) 0131 556 3444, byronhamburgers.com | £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

47 Buckstone Avenue, Fairmilehead See Bistros & Brasseries

Byron owner Tom Byng set out to recreate the ultimate comfort of the no-fuss proper hamburgers he’d come to love in the States. As the trend for premium burgers intensifies in the UK, his second Scottish opening is entering the market already on top of its game. A prime location on the corner of the Royal Mile and a sleek refit that pays homage to the history of the old bank building it inhabits have set the tone for Byron to make good on its promise to ‘do one thing, and do it well’. The signature recipe of four cuts of British beef produces a juicy and flavor-packed burger that’s accompanied by the kind of classic condiments which really satisfy your cravings – American BBQ sauce, crisp onion rings, chipotle mayo, tangy pickles and a choice of cheeses, wrapped in a soft bun that took 38 recipe attempts to perfect. There’s a good selection for less carnivorous guests, a revolving menu of craft beers and ludicrously long milkshakes you can upgrade with bourbon, Baileys or rum. + Not a chopping board or mini galvanized bucket in sight - Maple and salted popcorn milkshake so big it left no room for dessert

7 Commercial Street, Leith (Map 5A: C1, 8) 0131 553 0624, diner7.co.uk | Closed Mon | £14.50 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

The Cambridge Bar 20 Young Street, New Town See Bars & Pubs

Diner 7

Celebrating a decade on Commercial Street this year, this straight-talking American-style diner continues to offer good value burgers and steaks from the chargrill, alongside daily specials and retro desserts. Leithers and those lucky enough to stumble upon this relaxed local enjoy classic burgers (in two sizes) with a choice of toppings, including interesting options like jalapeño salsa or gherkin mayo. Steaks are Scottish, well-priced and served with chunky chips or potatoes and salad. Specials like chicken, chorizo and cherry tomato kebabs with butternut squash risotto show chef/owner Joe is more than just a grill chef. There’s a welcoming and laid back vibe, with light airy surroundings and comfy booth seating. Staff are accommodating and unhurried, making it easy to while away the time listening to blues and jazz and perusing the selection of daily papers. Brunch is served on Sundays until 2pm and the main menu starts as soon as the kitchen’s open, making this the perfect place for late and early risers alike to enjoy a weekend get together. + Super laid back local serving quality meat - So much chicken it could hardly fit in the bun!

Given that Kyloe prides itself on its mastery of all things bovine, it’s no surprise that the décor at this upmarket grill follows suit, with leather and cowhide finishes to the fore. Engaging staff are eager to explain the various options on offer, complete with the chance to, ahem, meet the meat – the raw beef is displayed proudly on a huge board. It’s a neat touch, catering both for diners baffled by the range of choice and those interested in the provenance of the produce. To begin, Scottish charcuterie – courtesy of Peelham Farm and Hardiesmill – gets the juices flowing, a worthy precursor to the main event. Steak of the week, a cold-smoked pavé, arrives with an enticing crust, although slightly pinker inside than their own medium-rare recommendation. It’s a fine, flavoursome piece of meat, however, complemented by cracking dripping-cooked chips and a rich bone-marrow gravy. Desserts, such

as chocolate pithivier with rum crème anglaise, are undoubtedly tempting, but after all that meat, you would probably need four stomachs of your own to find room for it. + Quality steak and one of the best castle views in the capital - Chips, sauces, sides; the cost of these essential extras soon adds up See the Table Talk feature on p.96 for more about artist Chris Rutterford’s links with Kyloe’s painted cow

NEW Leith Chop House 102 Constitution Street, Leith (Map 5A: D2, 27) 0131 629 1919, leithchophouse. co.uk | £20 (lunch) / £30 (dinner)

Down a quiet Leith street, September 2015 saw this hotly anticipated new opening presenting their up-to-date take on the classic steak house. Billed as a bar and butchery, the solemn black exterior gives way to a slick urban bar space where you can perch for cocktails or craft beer before heading through to the clamour of the dining room.

The new Buffalo Char-Grill restaurant has re-opened and we look forward to welcoming all old & new customers alike.

12-14 Chapel Street, Edinburgh, EH8 9AY buffalogrill.co.uk | 0131 667 7427 The List Eating & Drinking Guide 101

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EDINBURGH

Having scoured the best of local farms for the best of British, the Chop House is unapologetically meat focused. Custombuilt dry-aging fridges displayed behind glass invite you to feast your eyes on great ribs of beef slowly tenderizing over Himalayan salt, while you ponder whether to opt for brown butter hollandaise or bone marrow gravy. In addition to the usual prime cuts, sharing joints are sold by market weight and price, aged for a minimum 35 days and permeated with the smoky char of an open-flame grill. While sides of spicy kimchi or roasted beetroot slaw complement the otherwise proteinpacked menu, vegetarians might best leave this one to their meat-loving friends. + Crispy, dripping chips – animal fats are back! - It’s pricey (look out for midweek deals)

Los Argentinos 28–30 West Preston Street, Southside See Round the World

McKirdy’s Steakhouse 151 Morrison Street, West End (Map 4: B2, 76) 0131 229 6660, mckirdyssteakhouse. co.uk | £25 (dinner)

There’s nothing quite like being looked after by family and that’s what you get at McKirdy’s Steakhouse. Generations of brothers and sons have worked together, in their butchery since 1895 and at the restaurant they’ve run since 1999. Attracting a loyal crowd of locals and those lucky enough to wander in, the restaurant buzzes as diners tuck into an impressive array of lovingly served dishes. Their award-winning haggis stack served with bourbon sauce is impressive. For mains, choose from succulent fillet steak, racks of ribs or thick juicy burgers. The quality of the meat shines through and the

Bread Meats Bread (page 100): gourmet burger joint offering towering creations using locally sourced beef

McKirdys are right to be proud enough of their produce to give it the family name. To finish, there’s homemade deserts including sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice-cream. If you’re looking for a modern swish interior you won’t find it here – the décor probably hasn’t changed much over the years – but in the words of Bridget Jones’ Mark Darcy ‘we like you just the way you are’.

COME

ALONG & TRY OUR

New MENU

+ Friendly, family-run restaurant serving

high-quality meat - Slightly dated interior might not appeal to all

Miller & Carter Cramond Brig, Queensferry Road (Map 1A: A1, off) 0131 339 4350, millerandcarter. co.uk/millerandcartercramondbrig | £11 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

Sitting proudly on Queensferry Road near Cramond and the Almond River, Miller and Carter is a smart, stylish restaurant. There’s a warren-like feel to the layout as the tables are split across several sections and levels which creates plenty of cosy nooks. The staff are knowledgeable, swift and genuinely interested in the 30-dayaged Scottish beef they serve. It sits proudly at the forefront of their offering – the head chefs have even graduated from Miller and Carter’s very own steak school. With choices from ribeye to sirloin to chateaubriand, the carnivorous diner is well catered for here, but the included sides – from a crispy onion loaf to the rather odd lettuce wedge (a large chunk of iceberg with a hefty dollop of dressing) – feel a bit out of place. With a generous number of non-steak options, including sea bass and barbecue-glazed chicken, as well as a tempting selection of both alcoholic and non-alcoholic cocktails, this restaurant has a wide appeal and bustles happily with conversation as couples, groups and families catch-up after a busy day. + Diverse menu with wide appeal - Underwhelming starters

OX184 184 Cowgate, Old Town See Bars & Pubs

The ROYAL DICK IS OPEN AGAIN ! The Royal Dick was once the Small Animal Hospital of the Dick Vet School. Now creatively transformed into a completely unique destination bar/restaurant. The decor is a quirky mix of art from all over the world, and is now a bar like no other in Edinburgh, or indeed anywhere.

Aside from a wonderful array of craft beers, boutique spirits and a hand selected wine list to compliment our menu, we also serve a selection of Barney’s beers, brewed onsite. The Royal Dick is unique with our ‘Pickering’s Gin on Tap’ delivered directly from the Summerhall Distillery.

From noon until 10pm you can enjoy our brand new menu. For reservations call 0131 560 1572 or email trd@summerhall.co.uk

The New York Steam Packet 31 Rose Street Lane North, New Town (Map 1A: D5, 67) 0131 220 4825, newyorksteampacket.co.uk | Closed Sun | £14.50 (set dinner)

Tucked away on a lane off Rose Street, up a spiral staircase lies the good ship New York Steam Packet, a lively and friendly restaurant decorated with a New York nautical nod. The restaurant offers a great value three-course set menu, including somewhat unexpected starters: haggis balls served with whisky mustard dip, and thick, creamy sweet potato and coconut soup. For mains there’s succulent sirloin steak with lashings of peppercorn brandy sauce

or one of the juiciest burgers in town, covered in cheese and partnered with impressive golden fries. There’s no license here but they do have a BYOB policy which works well for groups looking for a good-value, social get-together. There are restrictions to note – tables need to be back after two hours and the restaurant is closed on Sundays unless there’s a group booking, but like all well-run ships, there’s nothing wrong with a little bit of order. + Great value and fun atmosphere - Restricted menu and opening hours

Shebeen • 103 Dalry Road, West End • 8 Morrison Street, West End See Round the World

Smoke Stack 53–55 Broughton Street, New Town (Map 1B: C4, 28) 0131 556 6032, smokestack. org.uk | £12 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Whether it’s the fun, unpretentious atmosphere, the convenient location or the generous portions which amply line your stomach before you set about the classic cocktail list; now in its sixteenth year, the Smoke Stack certainly seems to know how to please its punters and keep them coming back. Forget home-made bitters and concept cocktails, this is Daiquiri, Mule and Mojito territory and you’re clearly encouraged to unwind – there’s nothing like a giant lightbulb sign spelling out ‘WINE’ to signal the start of the weekend, after all. They are, however, serious about sourcing. Scotch Beef and local producers are name-checked across the menu and a sustainable manifesto demonstrates genuine commitment. The menu may seem a little dated, with calamari, nachos and garlic bread to start before burgers, steaks, fajitas and fish, but if you’re hankering after an old favourite you’re almost certain to find it here. Sugar avoiders beware: for pure, retro nostalgia the dessert menu is hard to resist. + Soda floats provide a real revivalist sugar rush - With these portions, prepare to pile on the pounds

✱ Steak 14 Picardy Place, New Town (Map 1B: C5, 37) 0131 556 1289, steakedinburgh.com | £37 (lunch) / £37 (dinner)

Despite a smart but unassuming exterior, Steak, situated centrally near

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After alfresco? Check out our Tiplists on pages 9–11 Find Tiplists on other topics through the guide and online

The Playhouse, has a truly impressive cavernous interior design. High ceilings with suspended wooden beams on thick twisted ropes and candles dotted throughout create a low-lit, sophisticated atmosphere, while a green banker lamp adorns each table building a warm glow across the large room. Soul music plays softly in the background as a team of friendly staff offer a highly professional service. To start, the ham hock terrine with poached egg and brioche soldiers is tender with well-balanced flavours, while the platter of cured and smoked salmon is both visually pleasing and succulent. But where this place really packs a punch is with its glorious steak. Cuts of beef, selected and hand cut by Donald Russell and matured for 21-35 days, are this restaurant’s gem with sirloin, fillet and ribeye on offer - juicy and full of flavour. To finish, desserts offer a sweet and delicate contrast to the thick steaks, with the lemon tart being a particular highlight, full of zing and tang. Delicious. + The sublime Donald Russell steak - Take a deep breath when they hand you the bill

Steak on Stones 12 Picardy Place, New Town (Map 1B: C5, 36) 0131 556 1289, steakonstones.co.uk | No Kids | Closed Sun/Mon | £34 (dinner)

Entering through a glamorous reception area, the high-ceilinged, exposed brick dining room of Steak on Stones offers the chance to enjoy prime beef from the same Royal warrant supplier as swanky sister restaurant Steak, while unwinding and embracing the interactive novelty of hot lava stone cooking. Once you’ve chosen your cut, or perhaps been tempted by the special exotic meat of the month, sit back and savour the tantalising smells and sizzles from the tables around you, while you wait for the kitchen to slice up your steak and deliver your personal volcanic rock. The menu is simple and portions are modest; a mini tureen of mussels with shallots, bacon, white wine and cream or three curls of soft salmon gravadlax with dill and mustard sauce to start and a choice of mini doughnuts or warm plum crumble to finish. Sides and sauces are ordered separately and range from an essential basket of homemade chips and classic Béarnaise, to the more unusual Brussels sprouts with cream and raisins. + Cooking your steak your way - Don’t try holding hands over a hot volcanic rock!

NEW TriBeCa 88 Bruntsfield Place, Southside (Map 3A: B3, 30) 0844 357 7777, tribecabarandgrill. com | £11 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

New kid on the block TriBeCa is bringing a slice of the Big Apple to the heart of Edinburgh’s Bruntsfield, with a yellow NYC taxi on the wall and American styling throughout. It’s hard to get past the drinks menu without tackling one of their colossal snow blizzard milkshakes which are sweet and creamy and made for sharing. With a build-your-

own gourmet burger option, the diner is in control of producing their own meaty tower with tantalising toppings from pastrami to brisket to blue cheese. But if the burgers aren’t your thing, the fillet steak is well worth a try with the 28-day-aged Scottish beef melting under the knife. As well as being a hotspot to catch up in the evening, TriBeCa is also a brilliant place for brunch, offering something to tempt every tastebud from The Original Brooklyn (fresh pancakes with maple syrup) to The Williamsburg (Loch Fyne smoked salmon and scrambled eggs on toast). + The excellent fresh pancakes - Food a little slow coming out of the kitchen

Twenty Princes Street Grill & Smokehouse 20 Princes Street, New Town See Scottish

✱ Wannaburger 7–8 Queensferry Street, West End (Map 4: B1, 14) 0131 220 0036, wannaburger. com | £5.99 (set lunch) / £7 (dinner)

As the popularity of the upscale burger joint continues, Wannaburger have been in the game for a decade and are already well into their stride. Early adopters of the posh burger, a decision to focus on their light and spacious West End venue saw something of a restyle, dispensing with plates and cutlery and moving to smaller burgers that cook more quickly and allow a faster service (you can double up for a very reasonable price if you want more beef for your buck). Great for all ages with a moreish menu featuring smoky or chilli hotdogs plus good vegetarian options alongside classic beef and chicken burgers, it’s everything you want in a fast-food joint without the nagging concerns over transnational corporate domination. For a little more than you’d pay in the big-boy chains, you get a vastly superior patty, cracking chips and seriously good milkshakes. It’s independently owned, serves locally sourced Scotch beef and daily fresh buns: all the fun of the fair without the guilty conscience. + Root beer for the kids, real beer for the adults - Take an extra napkin, the burgers are stuffed to bursting

Wildfire Scottish Steak & Seafood Bistro 192 Rose Street, New Town (Map 1A: B5, 48) 0131 225 3636, wildfirerestaurant. co.uk | No Kids (under 5) | £14 (set lunch) / £27 (dinner)

Based in the centre of town near the west end of Rose Street, Wildfire attracts a mix of tourists and locals in the know. The interior is petite but warm and incredibly welcoming; managing to secure a table here does feel a bit like winning a golden ticket, so book ahead. To start there’s a range of tempting options from creamy Cullen skink to haggis with a Drambuie sauce, while for mains there’s a focus on 21-day matured Aberdeen-Angus steak available in fillet, sirloin and ribeye along with a choice of peppercorn or blue cheese sauce. The succulent steak comes with a wealth of fries or delightfully thick-cut chips and a well-dressed salad. There’s also an array of specials on the mobile blackboard to peruse. To finish take advantage of the cheese board from IJ Mellis or the superb sweet selection – an impressively light chocolate and almond cake served with zingy compote is particularly worth saving space for. There’s also a generous whisky selection and interesting wine range. + Warm, friendly welcome - Not a huge amount of space between tables The List Eating & Drinking Guide 103

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THAI

list.co.uk

EDINBURGH

THAI With a few notable exceptions, the pace of Edinburgh’s Thai dining scene seems to have slowed in recent years, as a range of upstarts from other Asian cuisines demand more attention and airspace in the capital’s toughly competitive environment. But there’s still much to recommend, whatever floats your boat. Whether it’s the lively buzz of a casual streetfood based dinner, Royal Thai traditions of rich decoration and a slower pace, or whether you’re keen to explore a more modern tradition that bridges the gaps between the two, Thai always satisfies. Reviewers: Teddy Craig, Courtney Hyde Peyton

Absolute Thai 22 Valleyfield Street, Tollcross (Map 3A: C1, 17) 0131 228 8022, absolutethai. co.uk | Closed Sun | £18 (dinner)

For all that it is handily located for the King’s Theatre and offers a good value pre-theatre menu to capitalise upon this, family-run Absolute Thai has the feel of a neighbourhood restaurant. Its food is also available to takeaway so hungry locals have the option of picking up some Thai comfort food for an evening in. Whether you eat in or take away though, the wide-ranging menu should offer something to tempt even the most nervous of Thai cuisine beginners. The dim sum starters are delicate but satisfying, though for some the accompanying sauce may be piquant enough to work better as a dipping sauce. From the main courses, the pla rad prik monkfish sees battered and fried monkfish served in a sweet and tangy tamarind sauce. Diners should note that the restaurant is unlicensed but it does operate a BYOB policy, with a corkage charge of £2.50 for bottles of wine or 50p to £1 on beers.

TIPLIST FOR A GOOD LUNCH DEAL • Chez Jules Serving up all the French classics in a popular candlelit basement in town. 72 • Edinburgh Larder Bistro Cracking value lunch deals using some of the best produce from around Scotland. 39 • Michael Neave Kitchen & Whisky Bar Distinctly Scottish menu from a young chef just off the Royal Mile. 96 • Navadhanya Newcomer Navadhanya brings something fresh and innovative to Indian cooking in the capital. 75 • New Chapter Opened in late 2015, this place is focused on creative Scottish cuisine and excellent value for money. 96 • Wedgwood the Restaurant A passion for good quality ingredients and innovative cooking shines through here. 98

+ Ideal pre-theatre option for King’s

Theatre - Plan ahead if you’d like a drink with your meal

Chaophraya Edinburgh 33 Castle Street, New Town (Map 1A: B5, 106) 0131 226 7614, chaophraya.co.uk | £13.95 (set lunch) / £28.50 (set dinner)

It’s good to know there are restaurants out there that can suit pretty much any occasion. Whether you need a cosy corner for a catch-up with pals, a showstopping castle view to impress a date, a cocktail bar for a celebratory drink, or a touch of elegance for dinner with the in-laws, Chaophraya could well be your place. It’s so big and has so many areas that you could probably visit a number of times, sit in a different area each time, and feel like you’ve been at a different restaurant. Polite and helpful service brings unity to the experience, however, and when it comes to the food, there’s a whole lot of class going on. Beautifully presented, the dishes cover all Thai bases, from tod mun pla (fish cakes) and prawn satay appetisers, through a mouth-tingling som tum salad, to zippy stir-fries and aromatic curries. Sea bass steamed with ginger and chilli in a banana leaf is a simple delight, while a traditional hearty prawn red curry is elevated by plump slices of grilled aubergine. Desserts may lack some of the wow factor, but by that point you’ll probably have been won over anyway: that castle view really is spectacular. + Those views - It can get pretty noisy in the glass room

Dusit 49a Thistle Street, New Town (Map 1A: D4, 82) 0131 220 6846, dusit.co.uk | £13.95 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

A warm welcome awaits you as you step into the Dusit’s cosy but elegant dark wood surroundings. Director Len Timson describes the restaurant as offering a contemporary, rather than a traditional, take on Thai cuisine and that distinctiveness comes through from the first glance at the menu. Appetisers with names like ‘lady in the garden’ and ‘pretty duck’ can’t help but catch the eye and raise a smile. Thankfully, that smile will still be in place after sampling the dishes on offer too. The aforementioned pretty duck (aka ped chom yong) combines tender duck with the sweetness of fresh mango and pineapple and the crunch of cashew nut. Meanwhile, from the mains, seafood lovers will enjoy the talay sam rod, which brings meaty monkfish together with king scallops and jumbo prawns. Dusit also makes a real effort when it comes to its wine list, which is extensive and includes a dessert wine. This is a restaurant offering the extra touches to ensure it stands out. + Quirkily named appetisers raise a smile - Does takeaway, but no delivery

Krua Khun Mae 29 Cockburn Street, 1 Craig’s Close, Old Town (Map 2A: D2, 6) 0131 225 7007, kruakhunmae.co.uk | £7.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Krua Khun Mae is located just off Cockburn Street, down one of the famous thoroughfare’s atmospheric closes, offering a welcome retreat from the hustle and bustle of the city. Inside, the tables are attractive and unusual, with glass tops covering individual decorations beneath. The quality of the food matches up to the pleasant atmosphere and will please traditionalists or those looking for more of a fusion touch. If you’re in the latter group, the crispy wonton with haggis

and cheddar accompanied by sweet chilli sauce is perhaps the ultimate in Scottish-Thai comfort food; one of those dishes that feels like it shouldn’t work but really does. If that sounds a little on the heavy side, it’s easy to steer things back to more delicate flavours and textures with the classic simplicity of pad Thai. Alternatively, if you’re craving a curry, the gaeng pha (jungle curry) perfectly combines heat with the aromatic qualities of fresh galangal. A restaurant that’s a treat for the eyes and for the tastebuds. + Wonderfully aromatic gaeng pha - BYOB only available Sun-Thu

Mintleaf 28 Bernard Street, Leith, Leith See Indian

Noodle ‘N’ Ice 24–25 South Bridge, Old Town (Map 2B: A3, 10) 0131 281 0301 | £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

In busy South Bridge, Noodle ‘N’ Ice is a casual Thai eatery looking after students, tourists and hungry locals with steaming noodle dishes and a lot more besides. The laid-back venue features seating at long, adjacent tables and bench seating at first and main floor levels – perfect for larger groups as well as pairs of dining chums. The menu is divided between light bites and mains with food arriving as it’s ready from the kitchen, rather than in a strict order. Thai fishcakes hold a nice flavour of fish and shellfish, while crunchy sweet potato fritters are easily munched away. Their signature noodle n ice pad see ew is chicken and noodle comfort food, given a kick by ample crushed peanuts and chilli flakes. Pad kra pao, with veg, tofu, chicken, beef or king prawn is a bit less spicy than standard, but no doubt this could be adjusted when ordering. Pad prew wan combines seared chicken with sweet and sour pineapple in generous portions. Many flavours of S Luca’s ice cream await the clean plate club finalists. + Who doesn’t love noodles and ice cream? - Bench seating is not for lingering over a meal

Passorn 23–23a Brougham Place, Tollcross (Map 3A: C1, 10) 0131 229 1537, passornthai. com | Closed Sun | £10.75 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

Understated, calm and discrete, Passorn is a soothing escape from hectic Tollcross. The simple, modern décor reflects attention to detail and is executed with confidence, much like the eye-catching plates emerging from the kitchen. At times, food artistry can become distracting or a displacement for something lacking elsewhere, but not at Passorn where the harmony on the plate works at every sensory level. Start with seared scallops, springy with moisture and laced with an attention-grabbing dressing of mint, coriander and kaffir lime leaf. Spicy Thai tenderloin beef salad is powered by lemongrass, chilli and Passorn’s tamarind dressing. Mains include traditional curries, such as the moreish red choo chee curry with jumbo king prawns and Thai sweet basil. From the wok, their signature dish, the spicy pad cha, can be toned up or down to suit palates and is particularly good with crisp sea bass, where the mixed Thai herbs, chilli and Thai eggplant bathe the fish in their spicy complexity without overwhelming it. Black rice pudding completes a stylish meal. + Beautifully prepared and presented dishes - Not inexpensive

✱ NEW Passorn Brasserie 97 Hanover Street, New Town (Map 1A: D4, 91) 0131 225 1430, passornthaibrasserie. com | No Kids (under 5) | Closed Sun | £13.95 (set lunch) / £27 (dinner)

Seven years ago, owner and executive chef Cindy Sirapassorn, had the inspiration to open Passorn in Tollcross resulting in great reviews, buzzing tables and a very busy life. This year she’s spread her wings to open a sister operation, Passorn Brasserie, in citycentre Hanover Street, and oh, what a treat awaits. The décor is similarly elegant to the original, while staff are attentive and engaging, helpful with any menu queries and encouraging culinary adventure in a menu that trumps expectations. Start with some signature dishes – sam sa bai are seared, handdived, Orkney king scallops, blanketed with a creamy sauce of delicate Thai seasonings. Pla chao wang, crisp sea bass salad with coriander, cashews and mango, spills forth sweet and zingy out of its glistening tower. Ped ma kha, generous rounds of duck leg, deep fried and topped with tangy tamarind sauce, is deeply flavoured, fleshy and not fatty. A well-constructed wine list cleverly hits value and quality, matching the Thai menu with verve. + Working your way through this delightful menu - Finding they are fully booked

Spirit of Thai 44 Grindlay Street, West End (Map 4: C1, 36) 0131 228 9333, spiritofthai.com | £11.50 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

Spirit of Thai’s pretty, understated interior has a calming effect the moment you enter. Starters include the old favourite satay gai, skewers of tender chicken under a generous dousing of peanut sauce. Vegetarians need not be concerned by the initial apparent dearth of suitable options. There are dedicated sections further down the menu with choices including tom yam pakruam, a spicy hot and sour soup with a heavy hit of lemongrass. For mains, gaeng daeng pakruam (mixed vegetable red curry) possibly trumps phad krapao tha-lay, a medley of seafood stir-fried with basil leaves and chilli. Conveniently placed for the Traverse, Lyceum, Usher Hall and Filmhouse; if you’re planning a matinee, the three course set lunch is a good bet. + Typical Thai friendliness and welcome - Calmness can stray into blandness

NEW Street Box 53 Raeburn Place, Stockbridge (Map 1A: A1, 6) 0131 332 0031, streetboxedinburgh.co.uk | £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

From the ashes of the now-closed Ruan Siam, a tiny hole-in-the-wall Stockbridge café which predominantly focuses on takeaway/delivery has emerged in the form of Street Box. For those mourning Ruan Siam, you’ll find many of the old standards available here. In addition, there’s some street food, mostly apparent in the starters, and the menu as a whole here has a more rustic feel to it. Gai haw bai teauy delivers pandam leafwrapped parcels of honeyed chicken and just a hint of whisky, while gra beoung talay fills triangular wheat parcels with moist crab and king prawn. Most of the standard curries and stir fries are here, served with chicken, beef, pork or king prawn, and while the sauces on occasion are a bit thin, the flavour is good. Additionally, there’s also some chargrilling to investigate, as chicken, beef or duck are served up with tangy sauces. + Interesting starters that make good snacking - Not much room if you want to dine in

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THAI

In association with

EDINBURGH

Suree Thai 42 St Stephen Street, New Town (Map 1A: B2, 26) 0131 226 5111, sureethai.co.uk | Closed Mon | £19 (dinner)

Up a short flight of stone steps, large Georgian windows brighten Suree Thai as they look on to intimate St Stephen’s Street in the heart of Stockbridge. The small, tasteful dining room is semidivided into two spaces enabling both to feel cosy but not crowded. The menu is filled with traditional Thai curries and stir fries, satays and tom yums, but less often seen, and great shared as a starter, is the warm larb salad of chicken or pork, which has just enough chilli heat to wake up the palate, tempered by lime leaf and mint cool. Talay pud kee mao, piled with many scallops, mussels, squid and prawns, is coated in a mildly spicy sauce piqued with a splash of red wine, while the red Thai curry roast duck, accented with plump lychees and pineapple, is flavoursome if a bit fatty. Clearly popular with locals for dining in and delivery, the restaurant hums even on quieter evenings, while staff provide thoughtful care for their customers + Friendly neighbourhood Thai, working to please - Puddings are a bit of a non-starter

Thai Lemongrass 40–41 Bruntsfield Place, Southside (Map 3A: B2, 27) 0131 229 2225, thailemongrass.net/edinburgh | £9.95 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

This traditional Thai restaurant in Bruntsfield features a warm and cosy interior, simply but stylishly decorated with wooden tables, red place mats and the obligatory big gold Buddha. The

extensive menu has a seafood focus with a good selection of meat and a sprinkling of vegetarian options. A Thai sampler starter comes with three separate tangy sauces that bring out the flavour of the likes of satay, spring rolls and prawn cakes. A spicy green curry comes with your choice of chicken, prawns, pork or beef, while jumbo king prawns are steamed very lightly in white wine and served unaccompanied. Desserts include mango ice-cream or a chilled banana in a sweet coconut milk and palm sugar sauce. A safe, pleasant choice for neighbourhood Thai dining. [not recently visited]

Earthy pedt duck rests alongside thick slices of citrusy yellow mango, red peppers and stems of Thai basil. Kanom Thai, a selection of homemade sweets, is an unexpected and rare delight, reflecting Thai Orchid’s overall care and attention to detail. + Super attention to detail, balancing flavours and colours on the plate - If only the wine list was as adventurous as the food

Thai Orchid

Making the most of its elegant New Town townhouse setting, Time 4 Thai enjoys treating its customers to a bit of luxury and over-indulgence, the cool, neatly appointed design miles away from the low-key Thai street food venues elsewhere in town. Here deals are struck, alliances forged, assignations made, in the evenings and over the rather fun executive four course lunch menu. Engaging and unusual options nestle up again traditional favourites – deep savoury, shredded pork neck is joined by lightly seasoned chicken satay as a generous starter. Thai fish cakes reject the spongy texture so often presented and are soft and lush instead. A warm salad with sirloin or chicken breast drizzled with a spicy sauce and languishing with lemongrass and scallions makes a super interlude before facing up to rich mains. Stir-fried duck with crispy basil leaves is lean and splendid, heady with the earthy flavour of duck. The sautéed cluster of king prawns paddles in an unctuous pool of red curry enriched with coconut cream that never overwhelms its delicate seafood. Breathe deep and enjoy being pampered. + Attention to detail throughout - A bit pricey but worth it

5a Johnston Terrace, Old Town (Map 2A: B3, 31) 0131 225 6633, thaiorchid.uk.com | £9.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Opposite the Festival Hub and only minutes from the Castle and Royal Mile, Thai Orchid enjoys an enviable location. The modern décor is understated, distinctive, attractive. Lighting fixtures, so often a lost design opportunity, are sophisticated and atmospheric. Simple Thai ornamentation sets a relaxing mood for the pleasures of the meal to come. Kanom buang yuan, a crispy thin crêpe holds finely minced prawns, stirfried with dried coconut, tofu and bean sprouts, together forming a moist, filling accented by a sweet vinegar sauce. Hoy shell ping, generous portion of scallops, char grilled but juicy inside, hold the imprint of their garlic, ginger and sesame marinade without overpowering their delicate flavour. Pad cha pla, chunks of firm, sweet monkfish shine through the spicy sauce of fresh red chilli, garlic, ginger and clusters of green peppercorns.

ONLINE LISTINGS For full opening hours, further details on facilities, individual location maps plus web and social media links, go to

list.co.uk/food

✱ HITLIST

Time 4 Thai 45 North Castle Street, New Town (Map 1A: B4, 45) 0131 225 8822, time4thai. co.uk | £11.80 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)

✱ Ting Thai Caravan 8–9 Teviot Place, Old Town (Map 2A: C4, 55) 0131 225 9801 | £8 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

A stone’s throw away from Bristo Square, Ting Thai Caravan is perfectly located for students and its style and pricing reflect that. But whatever stage

THAI ✱ Passorn Brasserie A sophisticated addition the Thai dining scene, reflecting innovation, flair and fine dining with local produce. ✱ Ting Thai Caravan Ting Thai’s pop-up roots shape its mission to supply great value street-food in a fun, informal, wallet-friendly way.

of life you’re at, it’s hard not to fall in love with delicious, reasonably priced Thai food served in a no-frills, streetfood style way. This restaurant started life as a pop-up takeaway, and while it doesn’t offer fine dining, it certainly offers fun dining. The music choice is an eclectic mix of the staff’s own playlists, the seating plan crams in tables and food arrives in takeaway-style cardboard containers. The classic pad Thai emerges steaming hot from the open-plan kitchen, with the goong version sees the addition of meaty, juicy prawns. A good array of side dishes are on offer, including a very moreish roti flatbread with chilli jam. Gluten-free diners will also be impressed by the number of clearly marked options available. Two things to be aware of: the restaurant can’t be booked and is cashonly. + Fantastic value - Only takes cash so plan ahead

Ting Thai Caravan: delicious, no-frills, street-food style Thai restaurant that’s easy on your budget but big on fun and flavour The List Eating & Drinking Guide 105

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Glasgow CITY OF

he last year has been a busy one for Glasgow’s restaurants, cafés and bars, with many taking the chance to join in 2015’s national Year of Food and Drink. New and exciting places have sprung up – or popped-up – to showcase their offerings, with a noticeable determination to get Scotland’s renowned larder into their kitchens and onto our plates. Full of independent operators, many of whom are Glasgwegian to the core, the hundreds of bars, cafés and restaurants featured in the following pages demonstrate a bewildering collection of dining options. From converted police boxes and neighbourhood cafés cooking with flair and imagination to several independent coffee roasteries and high-end fine-dining restaurants, Glaswegians are spoilt for choice when looking for options to go out, eat good food and enjoy themselves. Over the last couple of years the city’s pop-up scene has flourished with new operators springing

CULTURE

up recently to take over kitchens or feed the willing masses in unusual locations. Established restaurants are getting in on the act, too, with new dining festivals such as Let’s Eat Glasgow and the Glasgow Restaurant Festival happening over the last year (see pages 110 and 111 for more on pop-ups and events). As these dining and drinking trends come and go, and areas of the city rise up to signal their credentials, it’s our job at The List to keep track of the scene, reporting on what is new and exciting. We also give an annual update on what old favourites across the city are busy creating and cooking up for our enjoyment. We’ve highlighted the favourites across each section with our Hitlists, while the Tiplists throughout the guide identify the places our reviewers noted have particular strengths to discover, whether it be a cup of tea and cake, a great steak, enticing vegan food or a place to go with the kids or the dog. Here’s to good eating and drinking, and a taste of this great city.

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TIPLISTS The Eating & Drinking Guide team’s recommendations

FOR A SENSE OF PLACE • Café Gandolﬁ Glaswegian dining institution proudly championing the best of Scottish produce since 1979. 130 • Hutchesons Luxurious dining in Merchant City landmark, featuring café, brasserie and glamorous cocktail bar. 132 • Rogano One of Glasgow’s oldest restaurants, this art deco venue offers classic dining with a touch of old-school glamour. 150 • Ubiquitous Chip A trailblazer in sourcing and creativity, and still one of the best venues for a special dining experience. 170 • The Vintage at Drygate Craft brewing meets innovative cooking in this East End beer wonderland. 128 • The Western Club Restaurant Elegant restaurant with clever cooking, focused on local and seasonal produce. 171

OVER 400 GLA RESTAUSRGOW CAFES AANNTS, BARS D

Hutchesons Bar & Brasserie

FOR NEIGHBOURHOOD DINING

FOR DIETARY REQUIREMENTS

• Bibi’s Cantina Lively little cantina with a big heart, conﬁdent traditional cooking and a range of speciality tequilas. 161

• Michaelangelo’s Tucked away in a corner of Clarkston, Michaelangelo’s authentic cuisine and delicious seafood is worth travelling for. 159

• Bar Soba Buzzing West End bar-diner serving inventive panAsian food, with a genuine eye to the needs of diners. 146

• La Brava Informal and friendly, La Brava’s Italian deli-bistro vibe promises a relaxed drink, snack or meal in a quiet, leafy suburb. 157

• The Sisters Jordanhill A relaxed local restaurant with a modern twist on nostalgic Scots recipes using carefully sourced ingredients. 169

• Martha’s Superfood gets the fast food treatment at this canteen, from porridge pots to rainbow salads. 138

• Ian Brown Food & Drink Friendly, casual, neighbourhood place, with the Scottish-inspired dishes of a true destination restaurant. 169

• Wee Lochan Café-bar by day, brasserie-style restaurant by night, celebrating seasonal Scottish produce with a global twist. 170

• North Star Step off Queen Margaret Drive and into the authentic taste of a bustling Mediterranean canteen. 138 • The Project Café Brings a village vibe to the city, with imaginative home-cooked veggie dishes at great prices. 139 • Red Onion Impressive city centre bistro committed to local produce, with extensive glutenfree and vegan menus. 133

Ian Brown Food & Drink

• Roots and Fruits Deli, shop and small café with an emphasis on local produce and catering for special dieters. 143

FOR WINES BY THE GLASS • Boudoir Wine Bar Individual booths and a friendly and stylish atmosphere pervades in this continental-style wine bar. 118

• Hotel du Vin Bistro A grand townhouse hotel with bags of style and top-end dining – a real specialoccasion venue. 169

• Porter & Rye Top quality, highly aged meats set the tone for a stylish bistro experience in the heart of Finnieston. 175

• Black Dove Lively bistro in the heart of Shawlands serving impressive food, joined by an extensive wine list.

• The Italian Caffè Sleek and stylish modern Italian, with a fantastic range of wines by the glass and enticing small dishes for sharing. 158

• Vroni’s Wine & Champagne Bar Vroni’s offers well-chosen wines and champagnes in a romantic and secluded setting. 129

130

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FOR OUTDOOOR DINING

FOR BUDGET DINING

• An Clachan Rustic and welcoming café housed in a charming Kelvingrove Park building, with daily specials and luxury cakes. 135

• Brel Bar-bistro providing a slice of Belgium down the cobbles on Ashton Lane, with one of the city’s most popular beer gardens. 118

• Saramago Café Bar Cool, creative hang-out inside the CCA, with exciting animal-free dining, plus bar and outdoor terrace. 116

• Banana Leaf This Old Dumbarton Road spot serves up some of the best value and tastiest curries in the city. 152

• Art Lover’s Café Elegant café for impressive lunching in a Mackintoshdesigned visitor and events attraction in Bellahouston Park. 114

• Dandelion Café A Southside park café with locals and regulars standing in line for some of the best home-baking in Glasgow. 136

• WEST Brewery Beer hall and brewery serving Bavarian-inspired food and home-brewed beers in striking Glasgow Green building. 129

• Lucky 7 Canteen Chilled-out canteen style restaurant serving great value home-cooking, craft beer and cocktails. 122 • Restauracja U Jarka Terriﬁc Polish cuisine, guided by the seasons, prepared with love and served with warmth. 165 • The 78 Comfy sofas, laid-back service, good music, craft beers and low prices at this West End vegan café-bar. 126 • The Shandon Belles Informal, cosy basement bistro from the Two Fat Ladies group, with a bargain set menu. 134 • The Vic Café Bar Hubbub of creative activity at the GSA that specialises in reinventing classic comforting dishes. 116 Banana Leaf

FOR PRE-THEATRE • La Bonne Auberge Bistrostyle restaurant adjoining the Cowcaddens Holiday Inn offering various menu deals. 151

WEST Brewery

• The Butterﬂy and the Pig Chintzy décor meets granny’s home cooking in this famous bar-cum-restaurant. 119 • Citation Split-level venue which contains a ground-ﬂoor tavern and more opulent dining room upstairs. 130

FOR LIVE MUSIC • Bloc+ With opulent burgers and hot dogs that would make Lenin blush, Bloc+ capitalises on a renegade spirit with great ale. 118

• The Gannet Contemporary Finnieston restaurant with inventive Scottish-inspired menu and cool bar. 168

• King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut Legendary rock and indie music venue, with surprising lunch and early dining offerings. 122

• Restaurant at Blythswood Square Fine dining in elegant surroundings of a ﬁve-star hotel in Glasgow’s city centre. 169

• Mono Long-established music bar with live bands, a record shop and vegan-friendly dining, plus ﬁzzy pop brewed in-house. 125

• Two Fat Ladies in the City Simple, old-school dining near Blythswood Square, specialising in ﬁsh and shellﬁsh. 150

• Nice ‘n’ Sleazy This distinctive late-night music bar has partnered with Babu for an outstanding Glasgow food collaboration. 125 • Slouch Late-night bar with music on its mind manages to be both popular and eclectic, with market and late night menus. 127 • The 13th Note Café/Bar A wellestablished vegan bar-restaurant popular with musicians, veggies and food-lovers alike. 128

Nice ‘n’ Sleazy

The Gannet

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FOR LATE DINING • The Calabash Restaurant No-frills canteen-style restaurant serving ﬂame-grilled meats and other African specialities. 164

• Ho Wong Long-standing upmarket restaurant, close to Broomielaw, serving Chinese favourites and lesser-known specialities. 145

• Charcoals With a warm, friendly welcome, and top-notch food, this city centre curry haven makes diners feel like VIPs. 152

• Kebabish Grill Scotland’s largest grill adds spectacle and char to one of the Southside’s most popular family-friendly curryhouses. 154

• The Hanoi Bike Shop The only dedicated Vietnamese restaurant in town offers taste-crammed food with a creative twist. 147

• Stravaigin Café Bar Full of boho charm, embodying the best of bistro dining – bold ﬂavours, creative dishes and keen prices. 134

Crafted by expertise, Perfected by Speyside.

The Calabash Restaurant

FOR A ROMANTIC MEAL • Brian Maule at Chardon d’Or Upmarket ﬁne-dining restaurant serving classic French food in suitably formal environs. 151

Brian Maule at Chardon D’or

• Cail Bruich Among Glasgow’s top dining experiences, where exceptional local sourcing underpins a winning formula. 166 • Gamba Refined environment near Blythswood Square, serving fish and seafood in all manner of wonderful ways. 150 • The Honours High-end brasserie from chef and restaurateur Martin Wishart with classy food and service. 132 • Mother India Synonymous with curry in Glasgow, expect excellent food to match the stunning surrounds. 154 • La Parmigiana Classic Italian fine-dining, with stylish interior, high-quality cooking and an extensive wine list. 159

“THE GLEN MORAY PEATED SINGLE MALT

These further Tiplists can be found elsewhere in the guide: Tea & Cakes Taking the Dog Steaks Cocktails Breakfast & Brunch Good Lunch Deals Snacks on the Go Burgers

116 121 129 132 136 139 142 146

Kids & Families Pizza Coffee Beer Whisky & Gin Group & Parties Veggie and Vegan dining

148 154 159 165 168 171 175

adds a great dimension to the Glen Moray Classic range. Crafted with the same dedication and expertise that has made Glen Moray a highly respected single malt for decades, the combination of peat smoke with classic sweet and fruity Speyside ﬂavours creates an intriguing and satisfying taste experience. Glen Moray with a twist!”

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Glasgow Food & Drink Events North Hop

3–26 JUN WEST END FESTIVAL Various venues, West End, westendfestival. co.uk This burgeoning festival tantalises all the senses with music, a carnival and art exhibits, plus restaurants and bars joining in the fun with special events. 18–19 JUN NORTH HOP GLASGOW SWG3, West End, northhop.co.uk Inverness’ North Hop beer festival hits the road and comes to SWG3; expect lots of local beer, gin and cocktails, washed down with some pop-up food and musical accompaniment. 23–25 JUN GLASGOW REAL ALE FESTIVAL The Briggait, glasgow realalefestival.co.uk

Organised by Glasgow CAMRA, expect over a hundred ales from breweries in Scotland and beyond, all under the glass roof of the old ﬁsh market. 1–3 JUL SCOTTISH GAME FAIR Scone Palace, Perth, scottishfair.com Three days of falconry, gun dogs, pipe bands, cookery demonstrations, shooting and a myriad of traders and stalls. 14–17 MAY LOCH LOMOND FOOD AND DRINK FESTIVAL Loch Lomond Shores, lochlomondfoodanddrink festival.co.uk Tasty tipples and nibbles on the banks of Loch Lomond, with free cookery demonstrations and food markets plus tasting sessions, live music and ale, cider and wine bars down on the beach.

4–6 NOV BBC GOOD FOOD SHOW SCOTLAND SECC, glasgow. bbcgoodfoodshow.com The food and drink extravaganza heads north of the border again for another serving of celebrity chefs and star culinary attractions. 12 NOV GLASGOW’S WHISKY FESTIVAL Hampden Park, glasgowswhiskyfestival. com This festival of the national tipple covers distillers and bottlers from in and around the city and beyond. 3–4 DEC VEGFEST SCOTLAND SECC, vegfest.co.uk After a successful 2015 debut, Europe’s prime vegan festival returns to Scotland, with stalls, demos and more.

FARMERS’ & FOOD MARKETS GLASGOW FARMERS’ MARKET Mansfield Park, Hyndland Street, citypropertyglasgow.co.uk/markets/farmers-markets 10am–2pm, second & fourth Saturday of the month GLASGOW FARMERS’ MARKET Queen’s Park, corner of Langside Avenue, citypropertyglasgow.co.uk/markets/farmers-markets 10am–2pm, first & third Saturday of the month LOCH LOMOND FARMERS’ MARKET Loch Lomond Shores, Balloch 10am–4pm, first and third Sunday of the month MILNGAVIE FARMERS’ MARKET Douglas Street 10am–2pm, first Wednesday of the month PAISLEY FARMERS’ MARKET County Square, ayrshirefarmersmarket.co.uk 10am–4pm, second Saturday of the month

Glasgow Farm

ers’ Market

FESTIVALS LET’S EAT GLASGOW letseatglasgow.co.uk Glasgow’s inaugural restaurant festival took place at SWG3 in summer 2015 with the Real Food, Real Folk co-op featuring Stravaigin, Cail Bruich, the Gannet, Ox and Finch and more. Check their website for future gatherings.

GLASGOW RESTAURANT FESTIVAL glasgowrestaurantfestival.co.uk Taking over a 200-cover spiegeltent at Candleriggs, the 2016 event saw a month of restaurants from across the city popping up in the tent’s kitchen. Watch for a return in 2017.

GOOD FOOD GLASGOW twitter.com/ GoodFoodGlasgow A series of food trucks took part in this ﬁrst street food market in spring 2016 – Saturdays on the Merchant City’s Brunswick St (until 21 May), and Fridays on Broomielaw (until 27 May).

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Section 33

add scotland to your menu.

STREET FOOD, POP-UPS & TAKEOVERS • Babu Bombay Street Kitchen babu-kitchen.com Babu does Indian street food, often with a Scottish twist. They also have a café (see p152) and head up the kitchen in Nice ’n’ Sleazy (see p125). • Chompsky fb.com/chompskyfood Chompsky has done various cuisines in different venues in town, and has branched out to Edinburgh recently with their grafﬁtied Vansky. • El Perro Negro fb.com/elperronegrostreetfoodglasgow El Perro Negro’s burgers are legendary at regular takeovers in BrewDog, and is dabbling in Korean food with Northern Seoul events at Café Strange Brew. • Fish Plaice Pop-up Seafood Kitchen & Bar fb.com/FishPlaicePopUpSeafoodKitchenBar The pop-up arm of long-standing ﬁshmonger on St Andrews Street, dishing up delicious seafood at Gordon Lane and other events. • Julie’s Street Kitchen fb.com/juliesstreetfoodkitchen Former Masterchef contestant, Babu head chef and now Malaysian street food pop-upper, Julie Macleod can be found down street food hotspot Gordon Lane in the city centre. • Nord Kitchen twitter.com/NordKitchen Scandi-inspired food, from breakfasts to full tasting menus, dished up at pop-ups in Nordic café For Fika Sake (see p137) in Partick. • On Rotation Rotisserie fb.com/onrotationrotisserie Rotisserie specialists doing roasted chicken, porchetta sandwiches and more, as part of the Gordon Lane pop-ups. • Section 33 section-33.com Guerilla is the vibe with Section 33 who have run successful pop-ups in surprising venues including the empty pool at Govanhill Baths.

VISITSCOTLAND.COM

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OUT OF TOWN A selection of the best places to eat around Glasgow BRAIDWOODS

MACCALLUM’S OF TROON

Drumastle Mill Cottage, Saltcoats Road, by Dalry, North Ayrshire, 01294 833544, braidwoods.co.uk, Closed Mon (& Sun, May–Sep), £27 (set lunch) / £46 (set dinner) Fine dining in a rural cottage restaurant, quietly overachieving for the past 20 years and holding a Michelin Star for over a decade.

Harbourside, Troon, South Ayrshire, 01292 319339, maccallumsoftroon. co.uk, Closed Mon, £12.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner) On the harbourside at Troon, freshness is guaranteed at the Oyster Bar, a longstanding seafood restaurant run by ﬁshmongers MacCallum’s of Troon.

CROSSBASKET CASTLE Crossbasket Estate , Stoneymeadow Road, High Blantyre, South Lanarkshire 01698 829461, crossbasketcastle.com The ﬁve-year renovation of this 14thcentury building into a luxury hotel and wedding venue unveils a restaurant under the auspices of the Roux family.

THE INN AT KIPPEN

MARTIN WISHART AT LOCH LOMOND De Vere Cameron House Hotel, by Balloch, Argyll and Bute, 01389 722504, martinwishartlochlomond. co.uk, Closed Mon/Tue, £32 (set lunch) / £75–£95 (set dinner) Star Scottish chef Martin Wishart’s outof-town Michelin Star establishment, where every last detail has been considered for the six and eight course tasting menus.

Fore Road, Kippen, 01786 870500, theinnatkippen.co.uk, £20 (lunch) / £24 (dinner) This traditional village inn with rooms has seen its long-standing appeal renewed with a philosophy centered on seasonal menus, local ingredients and an extensive wine and craft beer selection.

• Balti Club • 66 Woodlands Road, West End, 0141 332 5495, balticlub.co.uk Late-opening takeaway that does quality Indian food, with a huge range of pakora, plus pizzas and kebabs.

• CC’s Wood-fired Pizza Pie Company • 685 Clarkston Road, Southside, 0141 637 8883, ccpizza.co.uk CC’s does fantastic fiery wood-fired pizzas with a low-salt, highhealth recipe for its homemade dough and tomato sauce.

• Curry Pot • 139 Dumbarton Road, West End, 0141 334 1549 An Indian takeaway at Partick where fresh ingredients dominate and the emphasis on home cooking is evident throughout.

• Home Wok • 101 Byres Road, West End, 0141 334 8433, homewok.co.uk Chinese specialist with an extensive menu that also features Japanese, Thai and Korean dishes.

• Hooked • 1027 Cathcart Road, Southside, 0141 649 3994 An upmarket and modern take on the traditional chippy doing ﬁsh in batter, breadcrumbs or baked in the oven.

• Merchant Chippie • 155 High Street, Merchant City, 0141 552 5789 amoreglasgow.co.uk/merchant-chippie Popular chip shop with a few seats, serving up a great-value haddock supper and other fruits of the sea.

INVER RESTAURANT Strathlachlan, Strachur, Argyll and Bute, 01369 860537, invercottage. com, Closed Mon/Tue, £24 (lunch) / £30 (dinner) Rob Latimer and Pamela Brunton have turned this cottage on the banks of Loch Fyne into a stylish, down-to-earth restaurant, making the best of the local larder, including their own back garden.

TAKEAWAY & DELIVERY

• Philadelphia Fish and Chicken Bar • MONACHYLE MHOR Balquhidder, Lochearnhead, Stirling, 01877 384622, mhor.net, £24 (set lunch) / £55 (set dinner) Boutique hotel and internationally regarded restaurant in an 18th-century rural farmhouse and steadings run by the Lewis family, who also farm their own land and cultivate a kitchen garden.

SMITHS 199 Main Street, Uddingston, South Lanarkshire, 01698 818444, smithsrestaurants.co.uk, £14 (set lunch) / £26 (dinner) Smiths is a classy affair on Uddingston’s high street, where white linen and dark wood set the scene for a touch of special-occasion formality, using local, seasonal produce for elegant bistro dishes.

LOCH FYNE RESTAURANT & OYSTER BAR

THE SORN INN

Clachan, Cairndow, Argyll and Bute, 01499 600264, lochfyne.com, £25 (lunch) / £25 (dinner) Just about the last word on oysters on the west coast of Scotland, this exponentially expanding restaurant, deli shop, smokehouse and oyster and mussel farm is worth travelling for.

35 Main Street, Sorn, East Ayrshire, 01290 551305, sorninn.com, £11.95 (set lunch) / £26 (dinner) For out-of-towners the Sorn Inn is a ﬁnd, for locals it’s a given. This Ayrshire village restaurant showcases chefpatron Craig Grant’s accessible and upmarket Scottish-inspired dishes.

445 Great Western Road, West End, 0141 339 2372 Long-standing chippy at Kelvinbridge owned by the folks who have La Parmigiana next door.

Farewell to... Places that have closed in the past year

ALBA ANATOLIA CHARGRILL THE ARCHES CAFÉ BAR & RESTAURANT ASIA STYLE AZUR BISTRO BÒ KANTINA BURGER MEATS BUN CAFÉ PHOENIX CENTRAL MARKET CUSHION & CAKE FINO THE FLAVOUR CO

ISLEÑA THE ITALIAN BISTRO JUAN CHIHUAHUA MACSORLEY’S THE MARKET KITCHEN NO WAY BACK NO 1 CHOCOLATE FACTORY PUDDING LANE CAFÉ SIMPLY FISH SWEDISH AFFÄR TOMBOY VELDT DELI

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Food Shops A selection of the best places to buy good food and drink

The Very Essence of Burgundy

George Mewes Cheese

BERNARD CORRIGAN LTD 188 Byres Road, West End, bernardcorrigan.com Corrigan’s supplies many of Glasgow’s ﬁnest restaurants as well as shoppers with a range of familiar and exotic seafood and more.

IJ MELLIS CHEESEMONGER 492 Great Western Road, West End, mellischeese.co.uk Rustic cheesemonger with branches nationwide, and a deli range including olives, artisan bread and cured meats.

GEORGE MEWES CHEESE 106 Byres Road, West End, georgemewescheese.co.uk A leading expert in artisan cheeses, stocking around 80 in the shop, as well as being a familiar name on cheeseboard menus across the city.

LOCAVORE 66 Nithsdale Road, Southside, glasgowlocavore.org Not-for-proﬁt organisation encouraging people to eat locally and sustainably, with a shop selling local and Scottish food and drink, including home-grown veg.

THE GOOD SPIRITS CO. 23 Bath Street, City Centre, thegoodspiritsco.com Independent off-licence specialising in rare spirits with plenty of whisky, artisanal gins and other unusual ﬁnds, plus cigars.

LUPE PINTOS 313 Great Western Road, West End, lupepintos.com A one-stop shop for world food, with Spanish and Mexican the specialities, plus South Asian spices and sauces, Spanish wine and more.

HARVEST CO-OP 1143 Pollokshaws Road, Southside, harvestco-op.com A co-operative grain and groceries shop, owned and managed by the workers, providing top-quality whole foods to the locals with a zero waste policy and a scoop-shop element.

RODGERS BUTCHERS 180 Byres Road, West End, rodgersbutchers.com With a lineage that stretches back to the 1960s, this West End shop specialises in prime beef, lamb, pork, seasonal game and poultry.

HIPPO BEERS 128 Queen Margaret Drive, West End, hippobeers.co.uk Speciality beer store, named after the patron saint of brewers St Augustine of Hippo Regius, stocking around 350 Scottish beers and global offerings.

ROOTS, FRUITS & FLOWERS • 1137 Argyle Street, West End • 451–457 Great Western Road, rootsfruitsandﬂowers.com Kelvinbridge deli selling wholefoods and organic produce (see also p143), while a smaller store in Finnieston keeps the locals well fed.

“With the image of Bacchus adorning its labels, Jadot is one of the most recognisable French brands.” decanter

To ﬁnd out more about Louis Jadot in Scotland contact 01344 871800 or info@hatch.co.uk www.louisjadot.co.uk

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ARTS VENUES & ATTRACTIONS

list.co.uk

GLASGOW

ARTS VENUES & ATTRACTIONS Glasgow’s wealth of arts venues and visitor attractions also offer a varied range of dining options. Whether you want a snack while climbing, a refuel during studious work, afternoon tea in designer interiors or animalfree dining in an arts complex, this section offers eating and drinking that is more than just a pit-stop on your day out, with many places worth visiting for the food alone. Reviewers: Robbie Armstrong, Kat Borrowdale, Andrea Mullaney, Ellen Renton

NEW The Academy Restaurant The Experience, Lothian Street, Hillington Park, Southside (Map 9B: A1, off) 0141 883 4005, theexperience.org | £4.95 (set lunch) / £13 (dinner)

It’s hard to miss the Experience, with its Boeing 737 protruding out below the jagged roofline – a monumental nod to previous occupants Rolls-Royce. These days it’s a go-karting, laser-shooting leisure and conference centre housing the Academy Restaurant, all developed by Kibble, a young persons’ care charity who run social enterprises helping people into work – staff here include a number of paid trainees. It’s much brighter than expected with windows showcasing the go-kart track, while vintage items and mixed seating create a comfortable space. Sourcing is conscientious, with Kibble’s own nearby community gardens being utilised for produce in the kitchen. The menu is light lunches, burgers, plus small and large plates with a Scottish accent – think macaroni cheese, stovies and haggis. On Sundays the enjoyable carvery is good value, especially the unlimited option at £12.95. The Academy is a restaurant not only doing right by diners but by the wider community as well – and it helps turn a rather odd dining detour off the M8 into a gratifying and heartening experience. + Feel-good dining - In an industrial estate

✱

Art Lover’s Café

House for an Art Lover, Bellahouston Park, 10 Dumbreck Road, Southside (Map 8: B1, off) 0141 353 4779, houseforanartlover.co.uk | £16 (lunch)

Celebrating its 20th anniversary in 2016, the time-delayed House For An Art Lover in Bellahouston Park was originally designed in 1901 by Charles Rennie Mackintosh and is a popular attraction and events venue – although the stylish café, which looks out on the grounds, is worth a visit in its own right. The menu is ambitious, with appropriately artistic touches such as the soft onion and thyme chutney, melting potato dauphinoise with sweet confit lamb bonbons and rich rosemary jus which accompany the roast loin of lamb, tenderly cooked. A simple pork chop is made special with delicate garlic and bacon dauphinoise, apple purée and spinach and mustard cream sauce, all in perfect balance. Lighter options include carefully prepared starters and salads; desserts include terrific homemade ice-cream and the soft creamy pear charlotte looks as pretty as some of the architecture upstairs. The afternoon tea, particularly popular with Southside matrons, must be booked 24 hours in advance – as do the occasional musical events. + Great value set lunch - Might not get a table without first pre-booking

✱

The Balcony Café

Upstairs @ The Glasgow Climbing Centre, 534 Paisley Road West, Southside (Map 8: A1, off) 0141 427 9550, glasgowclimbingcentre.com | £6 (lunch) / £8.50 (dinner)

To the uninitiated entering the Glasgow Climbing Centre is like walking into Tim Burton’s head. A tall ex-church with soaring walls and gothic spires with surreal, lumpy shapes spilling out of the eaves and strange figures dangling about. A spiral stair to the old choir loft reveals the Balcony Café, which attracts daytime lunchers and serious evening foodlovers, demonstrating that a good kitchen turning out imaginative, properly cooked food can pull in the punters no matter how incongruous the setting. Everything is freshly created by chefs who enjoy the buzz and love their vocation. There’s squash soup laced with breezy Thai

highlights of coconut and lime leaves alongside the stuffed Ruben’s sarnie featuring oodles of peppery pastrami with slow-roasted onions and Bloody Mary mayo. Main of pulled pork enchilada is slow-cooked in Dr Pepper and seasoned with chipotle, smoked chilli, squashed into a bulky soft tortilla. Maybe not the classiest of settings, but the food really works. + Great cooking, great portions and great prices - Slothful guilt amid the air of healthy activity

Bar Varia Snow Factor, Xscape, Kings Inch Road, Southside (Map 9B: A1, off) 0141 885 7078, snowfactor.com | £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

For beer aficionados, the punningly titled Bar Varia is nothing short of wunderbar. Pilsener, wheat or bitter on tap and a strong bottled selection combine to create one of the most impressive ranges of German beers in Glasgow. Situated somewhat remotely on the top floor of an indoor activity centre, this adds to the feeling that those pilseners were well-earned, and it’s also a functioning weekend bar, open until 1am. Pork schnitzel, satisfyingly meaty traditional wurst and spicy paprika chips make for an appetising accompaniment to the Bavarian brewing with frickadelle and juicy burgers completing a menu that aims to please. It’s a ready-made spot for families with added entertainment coming from glass windows overlooking the adjacent piste, allowing for appreciation, envy and schadenfreude according to the ability of those gliding past. + Outstanding Bavarian beer selection - Not easy to reach on public transport

The Blue Chair 85 High Street, Merchant City See Cafés

The Burrell Café The Burrell Collection, Pollok Country Park, 2060 Pollokshaws Rd, Southside (Map 8: A4, off) 0141 632 3910, glasgowmuseums.com | £11 (lunch)

It would be fair to say that most of the regulars come here for the setting. Not only does the café overlook a green,

tree-lined field, it is also just happens to be in the belly of a grand building showcasing a world-class collection of art and artefacts, spanning more than 2000 years. That’s quite something to consider when tucking into a delicately crisp, battered fish with chunky chips, a belt-busting baked potato with veggie chilli, a hearty slice of apple pie with a cup of peppermint tea, or a gluten-free pear and chocolate biscuit from Wooden Spoon. This is all courtesy of the Encore team which services all Glasgow Life venues in a similarly reliable vein. The big news is, of course, that the Burrell Collection is due to close in October 2016 for a four-year renovation. By the time it opens its doors again (for the 27th edition of The List Eating and Drinking Guide), there will be a large expanse of decking outside . . . and maybe, just maybe, hoverboard parking. + Admiring the Degas - Could be a long walk from the counter on a busy day

Café Source 1 St Andrew’s Square, Merchant City See Scottish

Café at GOMA Royal Exchange Square, Merchant City (Map 6: F5, 115) 0141 287 3058, encorehospitalityservices.co.uk | £7 (lunch)

Modern art tends to be a rather divisive subject, yet regardless of your opinion of the exhibitions presented at the Gallery of Modern Art, the downstairs café provides a space to contemplate the merits of the artwork on display over lunch. Despite the fact that choice is fairly limited, the menu focuses on trusty favourites with baguettes, sandwiches and panini available with various filings, such as cheese and ham, Cajun chicken, and tuna, served with creamy coleslaw and green salad, so ultimately the brief menu leaves no one disappointed. With hot and cold drinks, soups and a selection of scones and cakes also served up throughout the day, the café is a peaceful retreat from its perpetually busy surrounding area. + Unusually peaceful for a city centre café - Food is much less adventurous than the artworks

All That is Coffee South Block, 60 Osborne Street, City Centre (Map 7: B3, 40) 0141 271 4777 | Closed Sat/Sun | £6 (lunch)

All That is Coffee fosters a tangibly creative environment; its white walls and chunky coloured furniture play host throughout the day to those who make use of the attached WASP studios, groups of creatives discussing new projects and staff from local businesses keen for a caffeine hit. The spacious layout and soft sounds of upbeat soul create an atmosphere catering to everyone’s working needs, with the gentle background buzz being conducive to both chatter and quiet study. Although the selection is limited, especially later in the day when popular options have been devoured, every item comes from a highquality source, from the Pekoe Tea – pick the cranberry and apple version for a deep vibrant flavour or a more traditional soothing peppermint – to the sandwiches from Cherry & Heather, including the meaty chicken, bacon and pesto, and the popular goat’s cheese and beetroot – which tastes even better toasted. Staff are chatty, welcoming and extremely cluedup about their menu. + Extremely well-sourced menu - The bright strip lighting

Saramago Café Bar (page 116): exciting animal-free dining at this café and bar with outdoor terrace next to the GSA

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ARTS VENUES & ATTRACTIONS

In association with

The Doocot Café and Bar The Lighthouse, 11 Mitchell Lane, City Centre (Map 6: E5, 107) 0141 276 5367, thelighthouse.co.uk/venue/eat | £7 (lunch)

Tucked away on the fifth floor of Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s first major architectural masterpiece, the Doocot’s setting couldn’t be better. Large roof lights fill the space, imparting a bright and airy feel – worthy of the Scots term for ‘dovecot’. Sit back on a banquette or an Eames Eiffel-style chair and enjoy a coffee or tea after exploring the national centre for design and architecture. As with many of Glasgow’s museums and galleries, food is provided by Encore so the menu doesn’t offer experimental flavour combinations. Instead, it serves baked potatoes, wraps and sandwiches – simple but not to be sniffed at. Fresh, fair-trade coffee comes from Glasgow’s Matthew Algie, while quality herbals are provided by Belfast’s Suki Tea. + Great space to enjoy lunch - Setting trumps menu

The Edwardian Kitchen Restaurant Pollok House, Pollok Country Park, 2060 Pollokshaws Road, Southside (Map 8: A4, off) 0141 6166410, nts.org.uk/ Property/Pollok-House | £8 (lunch)

A visit feels like a big day out at this rustic café, which is reached via the impressive grounds of Pollok Park. Housed in the basement of Pollok House, Glasgow’s best example of an Edwardian country home, the open layout means you can watch the chefs at work preparing cakes, soups and salads. Vegetables are even taken from the gardens to create daily specials, which include quiche and soups – courgette soup comes with delicious, freshly baked tomato bread, while the quiche includes the right balance of creamy cheese and roast tomatoes. Sweet options include decadent gluten-free brownies and rich date slices with oats. Occasionally, combined tours and dining experiences are on offer. + The artisan ethos - Visitors need to book ahead for afternoon tea

The Glad Café 1006a Pollokshaws Road, Southside See Cafés

Herald Café Bar Mitchell Library, North Street, West End (Map 9B: G2, 53) 0141 287 2917, glasgowlife.org.uk | Closed Sun | £9 (lunch)

The quiet bustle of the Mitchell Library provides a tranquil place to think and work as well as dine in the dedicated café that provides a good range of lunch options. Substantial, fluffy omelettes can include fillings such as goat’s cheese and spring onions, while another popular choice is a baked potato; both provide plenty of fuel for intellectual energies. Those visiting a show or event housed in the well-equipped Mitchell theatre will appreciate the beer and wine selection at the evening bar. The cake selection deviates a little from the standard Encore catering offerings, including homemade cakes from a local supplier. + Excellent salted caramel cookies - Stir-fry is a bit too saccharine

The Hidden Lane Tearoom 8 Argyle Court, 1103 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 35) 0141 237 4391, thehiddenlanetearoom.com | £9 (lunch)

Sipping tea from bone china cups in a setting of patterned wallpaper, old typewriters and tiny, brightly coloured murals sounds quirky, but there’s nothing

quaint or twee about Hidden Lane. This independent café feels contemporary and relaxed, perhaps because there’s such a varied mix of clientele, from families, artists and young professionals to ladies that lunch. Aside from the popular afternoon teas, Hidden Lane serves up a large breakfast menu, sandwiches and salads. The grilled goat’s cheese salad is light, nicely flavoured with a touch of balsamic, and served on a bed of flavoursome sun-dried tomatoes and fresh rocket. The selection of teas is comprehensive, and includes a milky, comforting peach Melba tea, refreshing Moroccan mint tea, and vanillainfused winter spiced chai. The vibe is independent and distinctive, but with a polished attention to detail. + The obvious love of tea - Salad lacking in size

THE EDWARDIAN KITCHEN AT POLLOK HOUSE

KG Café Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, Kelvingrove Park, Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: C1, 2) 0141 276 9530, encorehospitalityservices.co.uk | £12 (lunch)

Nestled underneath Scotland’s most popular museum and art gallery, and overlooking beautiful Kelvingrove Park, the KG Café is understandably large and busy, with efficient, friendly staff whisking hundreds of meals around every day. The menu is more ambitious than you might expect, with nice touches like couscous-encrusted salmon, which is simply cooked, letting the quality of the fish shine through, or delicate potato gnocchi with lightly grilled veg. The usual staples of beef burgers or fish and (excellent) chips are joined by Scottish specialities Cullen skink and haggis to please the tourist crowd. Afternoon tea with scones and substantial cakes is a real treat, and the restaurant is understandably very family-friendly. Outside lunch times, sandwiches and soup are served and there’s also a takeaway coffee shop upstairs. + Lovely views of the park from the conservatory - Can be quite noisy when busy

Dine in the atmospheric setting of Scotland’s answer to Downton Abbey Pollok Country Park, G43 1AT 0141 616 6410 www.nts.org.uk

The National Trust for Scotland for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty is a charity registered in Scotland, Charity Number SC 007410

✱ HITLIST

The Pipers’ Tryst The National Piping Centre, 30–34 McPhater Street, City Centre (Map 6: E1, 24) 0141 353 5551, thepipingcentre.co.uk | Closed Sun | £10.95 (set lunch) / £17.50 (dinner)

The Pipers’ Tryst strikes the balance of aesthetic that most restaurants boasting their Scottish authenticity fail to achieve; while there are hints of tartan around the bright airy room and little pieces of history on the walls, they do well never to stray into gimmicky territory. The busy restaurant benefits from being next door to the National Piping Centre, yet it also attracts visitors in its own right, drawn in by the familyfriendly atmosphere and the reasonable lunch deal. The menu offers everything you would expect – starters of Cullen skink and haggis, and sausage and mash main – but also presents a few surprises, including the mac ’n’ cheese with chorizo, chilli and herb crumble or the monkfish cheek starter. For those who like to share, the rosemary baked camembert for two, presented beautifully with salad and toasted bread, is a decadent and delicious appetiser. The cod fillet is a delicate and refined dish, although fans of fish who are feeling hungry should opt for the Fraserburgh haddock supper. + Traditional done well - Not much choice for vegetarians

The Project Cafe 134 Renfrew Street, City Centre See Cafés

ARTS VENUES ✱ Art Lover’s Café An elegant café for impressive lunching in a Mackintosh-designed visitor and events attraction in Bellahouston Park. ✱ The Balcony Café A modest, hardworking kitchen serving classy food that would put many a New York Deli to shame.

WINE & BEER

✱ Saramago Café Bar A cool, creative hangout inside the CCA, with exciting animal-free dining, plus separate bar and outdoor terrace. ✱ The Vic Café Bar A hubbub of creative activity at the GSA that specialises in reinventing classic comforting dishes. The List Eating & Drinking Guide 115

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ARTS VENUES & ATTRACTIONS

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GLASGOW

Riverside Café Riverside Museum, 100 Pointhouse Place, West End (Map 9B: A1, off) 0141 287 2720, encorehospitalityservices. co.uk | £12.50 (lunch)

It’s not without reason that the Riverside Museum was named European museum of the year in 2013. The building seems to shift shape as you walk around its parameters, and sits appropriately on the site of former Clydeside shipbuilders A&J Inglis at Glasgow Harbour. Inside the museum, you can either stare upwards and wonder at the architecture and Möbius strip of bicycles above, or wander through the model village and old Glasgow trams. The café sits within the inspired reimagining of the old Museum of Transport, where its soaring ceiling and stunning glass wall frames the Glenlee Tall Ship outside. There’s everything from soups and sandwiches to pies and curry, while the clearly labelled menu conveniently denotes which options are suitable for those with dietary requirements. + Setting and views - Food lacklustre at times

St Mungo Museum Café 2 Castle Street, East End (Map 7: D1, off) 0141 276 1627, glasgowlife.org.uk | Closed Mon | £7.50 (lunch)

With Glasgow Cathedral and the Necropolis on its doorstep, it’s hard to tell that this Baronial building was built less than 30 years ago. The Museum of Religious Life is a great place to stop and reflect on the city’s multi-religious identity among totems of all of the world’s great religions. A walk through the museum allows you to explore the importance of belief systems in shaping the lives and cultures of people across the world. In one of the few museums in the world devoted entirely to the subject of religion, a Nigerian tribal screen sits alongside a dancing Shiva, Buddha statues and ornate stained-glass windows. Pop down to the café afterwards by way of the Zen garden for soups, sandwiches, and hearty dishes from home and abroad ranging from traditional stovies to a decent Thai chicken curry. + Beautiful surroundings - Menu is a touch dated

TIPLIST FOR TEA & CAKES • Avenue Coffee The West End coffee specialist, on Byres and Great Western roads, also does a great line in tea and cakes. 135 • Coffee, Chocolate and Tea Small café with 40 teas and over ﬁve in-house roasted coffees to choose from, as well as cakes and confectionary. 142 • Dandelion Café A Southside park café with locals and regulars standing in line for some of the best home-baking in Glasgow. 136 • The Hidden Lane Tearoom Nestled in an artist-inhabited back lane, this distinctive and relaxed café offers a contemporary take on afternoon tea and cakes. 115 • Once Upon a Tart A zany fantasyland of delicious cakes a-plenty with a bit of rock ’n’ roll attitude to boot. 139

The Pipers’ Tryst (page 115): traditional, cosy and hearty yet far from twee – a haven for lovers of Scottish cuisine

✱

Saramago Café Bar

CCA, 350 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre (Map 6: B2, 11) 0141 352 4920, cca-glasgow.com/cafe | £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

If there’s such a thing as underground veganism, Saramago surely takes the Glasgow crown. Housed in the creative hub of the CCA, the menu is full of meatless, dairy-free delights that raise the ambition of vegetarian cuisine without needing to laud the concept. A beetroot bourguignon is a perfect example of this, with a rich red sauce full of earthy tones and all the dramatic presentation such ingredients allow, while other dishes on offer include haggis fritters and Thai noodles. On tap are numerous craft beers including a specially brewed custom lager from Third Eye. With a constant influx of art-lovers, students and professionals, there’s a compelling buzz about the venue which draws diners in for a relaxed working day or even a romantic date. The separate bar upstairs offers a rare beer garden in the city centre, beneath the imposing GSA. + Variety and quality of menu - The open space can get chilly

Stan’s Studio 43 Alexandra Park Street, East End See Cafés

The Tea Room at the Botanics Botanic Gardens, 730 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: D1, off) 0141 276 1640, encorehospitalityservices. co.uk | £8 (lunch)

A good old-fashioned Victorian tearoom with a healthy dose of Glaswegian pragmatism, the Botanics’ Tea Room isn’t pretentious or filled with dainty china, but does retain the finer points of high tea. The relaxed atmosphere makes for extended, caffeine-fuelled chats over the quintessential tiered cake trays, while the names of the afternoon teas reflect aspects of the Gardens setting. A ‘Kelvin’ will provide you with several cakes, a beautifully soft scone and, of course, cucumber sandwiches with the crusts removed. On a sunny day, a spot on the large patio sipping Matthew

Algie coffee in the quiet splendour of the Botanics is hard to beat. + Accommodating and charming setting - If you don’t like bread, you’re in the wrong place

Tramway Café Bar 25 Albert Drive, Southside (Map 8: D1, 1) 0141 276 0953, tramway.org/Pages/ cafe-bar.aspx | Closed Mon | £8.50 (lunch)

This post-industrial arts space sits on the former site of Coplawhill depot, evidenced by the tram lines that crisscross the gallery floors today. Inside the space, the interplay of new and old is seamless – wooden rafters, steel staircases and exposed brickwork complement the great towering pillars and rusted iron doors that date back to building’s late 19th century heritage. The café sits on the ground floor, with views onto the Hidden Gardens community space outside. Soups, sandwiches and baked potatoes are served all day, with a healthy number of veggie options. Full breakfast, filled rolls and porridge are served before noon, while a larger breakfast menu is served all day on Sunday when the offering includes full breakfasts, salmon and scrambled eggs and French toast. The bar also serves wine, craft beers from Drygate and WEST, and Bloody Marys on the weekend. + Stunning architectural space with added gardens - Climate means gardens are often a no-go area

Tron Theatre 63 Trongate, Merchant City (Map 7: C3, 37) 0141 552 8587, tron.co.uk | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Inside this city landmark, dating back to 1795 – though parts, including the clock tower are much older – neo-modern lighting and clever use of glass and mirrors makes the versatile spaces of the Tron Theatre seem even bigger, with the restaurant area tucked unobtrusively between the bar and theatre venue. The pre-theatre menu offers an abundant choice of bar favourites, including burgers and fishcakes, but it is a salmon and chorizo dish laced with punchy tomato flavours which stands out;

the salmon meltingly soft. Always a creative hub for artists in the city, the Tron has expanded its programme by adopting several groups once housed in the much-missed Arches, including the community choir and poetry nights. + Transition from event space to dining area feels natural - Their burgers can be a bit on the lean side

✱

The Vic Café Bar

Glasgow School of Art Students’ Association, 20 Scott Street, City Centre (Map 6: C1, 12) 0141 353 3642, theartschool.co.uk | Closed Sun | £7.50 (lunch) / £7.50 (dinner)

The steep incline of Scott Street is a daunting climb, towards the Glasgow School of Art, but it’s definitely one worth persisting with, because halfway up the ascent sits the Vic Café Bar – a casual dining space that serves up a fusion of student favourites and more adventurous Asian-inspired cooking. The marriage of these two elements is exemplified by the street food dishes available in the evenings, a highlight of which is the bunny chow saag – a spinach and okra curry served in a hollowed out roll with tangy beetroot chutney. Even the most traditional student food is given a bit of a makeover – the burger selection includes halloumi with sambal mayo, and Korean fried chicken varieties, and pizza toppings range from hot-smoked salmon to artichoke and fennel. Despite the GSA connection, the clientele is surprisingly varied, and so shouldn’t deter those whose student days are far behind them. + Extremely reasonably priced - Operates on student hours – brunch begins at noon

Get up-to-date opening hours at list.co.uk/ food

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BARS & PUBS

In association with

GLASGOW

Wild Cabaret & Wicked Lounge 18 Candleriggs, Merchant City (Map 7: C3, 32) 0141 552 6165, wildcabaret. com | Closed Mon/Tue | £15 (set lunch) / £24.50 (set dinner)

Candleriggs is the setting for Glasgow’s biggest, brashest, occasionally burlesque, cabaret and dining venue. Each Friday and Saturday is the Big Show, where diners can enjoy a meal while settling down to some entertainment in the smart, theatrical dining room. The menu is set at £24.50, on top of the cost of the cabaret, but it’s a suitably lavish affair, with the likes of Stornoway black pudding and pan-seared scallops to start, and sea bass, various grills such as steaks (supplements may be required) and attractive desserts. Expect varied ents, from dancing girls and local comedians to trapeze artistry. It’s not all about the glitzy weekend shows. Other events include weekday comedy nights, Sunday family shows for taking the kids to, and there’s always the option of popping in for breakfast with full montys and healthier options on offer, or going in for their reasonably priced lunch menu, with crowdpleasers such as steak pie, fish and chips and burgers. + Whole package of food and ents - Advisable to book well in advance

The Willow Tea Rooms 97 Buchanan Street, City Centre (Map 6: E5, 106) 0141 204 5242, willowtearooms. co.uk | £10 (lunch)

One of Glasgow’s defining designers and architects, Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s work is famous for being both appealing and functional. Just so in the Tea Rooms, where the elegant design of the longbacked chairs has the effect of creating a private booth for each set of diners. The pleasure of tea with friends feels well and truly understood, an approach which continues in the present-day. Pleasingly, each pot of tea is served with additional water to make the most of each brew, and infusions include the Willow’s own chosen blend. The range of the menu might come as a surprise for those who expect tearooms to specialise purely in afternoon tea – this sophisticated kitchen also serves up hearty Scottish dishes with finesse, such as a delicious Scottish rarebit with keen Lockerbie cheddar. + The grand setting - The Chinese Tea Room is not always open

BARS & PUBS These are heady, intoxicating days for Glasgow’s bar scene. As the nation continues to brew beer, create gin, distill rum and produce vodka at an almost alarming rate, so the city’s varied and voracious bars and pubs provide outlets for us to enjoy it all – along with some great dining options. And if a dram of Scotland’s most famous tipple is your thing, you’ll find plenty of that here, too. Reviewers: Tiff Griffin (section editor), Gabriella Bennett, Malcolm Jack, Laura Muetzelfeldt, Rowena McIntosh, David McPhee, Kevin Scott, Paul Trainer

1051 GWR 1051 Great Western Road, West End See Steakhouses & Burgers

The Admiral 72a Waterloo Street, City Centre (Map 6: C4, 81) 0141 221 7705, theadmiralbar. com | Closed Sun (unless event on) | £10 (lunch) / £10 (dinner)

This traditionally fronted bar located in the city’s financial district doesn’t need attention-grabbing A-boards to draw in crowds for lunch or post-work drinks. Inside the domed ceiling is reminiscent of a ship’s hull, with stained-glass windows hinting at the buildings maturity. The menu offers generously portioned burgers, pizzas and sandwiches, with a weekly selection of specials. The New Yorker ciabatta is crammed with pastrami, sauerkraut and Swiss cheese while the Wolf of Waterloo Street burger tops a high-quality beef patty with a hefty slab of haggis and a wheel of chorizo. Behind the bar there’s a focus on Scottish craft beer and Scottish gins, as well as a growing selection of rum choices. With several booths equipped with their own TVs, tables book up fast for big games. A pub quiz, live folk and regular club nights in the venue complete the live entertainment. + The original burger topping combinations - Draught beer a little uninspiring

Baby Grand 3–7 Elmbank Gardens, City Centre See Bistros & Brasseries

The Willow Tea Rooms 217 Sauchiehall Street (Map 6: D2, 20) 0141 332 0521, willowtearooms.co.uk | £10 (lunch)

Kate Cranston’s vision of grand tearooms spanning five floors was brought to life by famed local designer Charles Rennie Mackintosh, and operated between 1903 and 1928. After decades as a department store, the tearoom was re-established in 1983. Today, the Tea Rooms and Room de Luxe are the definitive afternoon tea experience in Glasgow, and are frequented by both art-loving tourists and regulars stopping by for a cuppa and cake. Exploring the building and small exhibition first will whet your appetite; afternoon tea features a choice of cake, cream-cheese and cucumber sandwiches and freshly baked scones, with most of the cakes on offer including copious amounts of cream. Decadent times, but arguably educational and cultured ones as well. + The distinctive ambience and authenticity - More small cakes would be good with afternoon tea

The Winged Ox Saint Luke’s, 17 Bain Street, East End See Bars & Pubs

Bar Gandolfi 64 Albion Street, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 25) 0141 552 6813, cafegandolfi.com | No Kids | £20 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Sitting atop big sister venue Café Gandolfi with an identity all of its own, Bar Gandolfi is an atmospheric hangout in the Merchant City. Its metro-tiled walls, punctuated with work for sale from local artists, rough-hewn wood tables and bar, and architectural metal beams make for a supremely inviting spot with bags of character. It also manages to remain a feel-good place no matter the time of day or how full it is – a rare talent in these parts. The menu has all the good stuff from downstairs and vegetarians are well-catered for far beyond the usual goat’s cheese tart offerings elsewhere. Like a weekend in Mumbai, the spiced lentils, feta and roasted cashew dish is a brief sojourn into India, but the extensive range of pasta dishes also vie for attention. There is also an excellent stone-baked pizza list exclusive to the bar. + Super-cool hangout with charm and character - Can be a tight squeeze around some of the tables

Bar Gumbo 71–77 Byres Road, West End See Round the World

Bar 91 91 Candleriggs, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 18) 0141 552 5211, bar91.co.uk | £13.50 (lunch) / £13.50 (dinner)

This long-standing Merchant City bar is a popular destination for kicking back after work, kept cosy in winter by flickering digital fires and offering coveted al fresco drinking in the warmer months. The simple-worded menu doesn’t do justice to the quality homemade food on offer. Chicken tortilla is filled with a hearty mix of seasoned peppers, mangetout and jalapeños and is served with a fresh, chunky tomato salsa. Pulled pork is both tender and pleasingly crispy and accompanied by creamy homemade coleslaw. As well as burgers and mains the chefs get creative with an everchanging board of specials. Bar 91 isn’t affiliated to one brewery so there are plenty of draft choice, including three types of West beer and a guest tap to test out new options. Accompany your beer with one of the many snacks options, including flatbreads, mezze, antipasti and generously portioned wee plates, and settle in for the evening. + Easy-going vibe - Spirit selection not as varied as the beer

Bar Soba • 11 Mitchell Lane, City Centre • 79 Albion Street, Merchant City • 116–122 Byres Road, West End See Far East

Brooklyn to Scots brews Black Isle and Innis & Gunn, Prosecco by the glass and always a good-value malt of the month. You’ll be lucky to get a table at peak times – the place is barely big enough to swing a cat, let alone a dog – but wait it out by the bar and you’ll grab one sooner or later. In summer benches out front relieve a little of the Belle’s always very well-earned busyness. + So cosy you need to cool down outside periodically - Price of a pint can be a touch steep

The Ben Nevis 1147 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 24) 0141 576 5204, thebennevis. co.uk | No Kids

For anyone who remembers pub life before the Ben Nevis, it was a dystopian world where warm beer and generic whisky ruled. Fast forward to today and the possibilities within this selfproclaimed ‘celebration of all things liquid’ (food is very minimally the Famous Killie pie and beans, that’s it) are enough to make Doc Brown’s head spin. One entire wall is a playground for those who enjoy a good nip, and the bottled beer on offer is a distinguished mix of German, Scottish or South American descent. Those with an adventurous spirit should try the Asyla whisky from Compass Box or for a slightly peaty finish try a Lochranza or Arran 14 year old. If good beer is more your speed then look no further than the Beast of The Deep which, at 6.5%, will endeavour to send your spirits soaring. + Whisky just tastes better in the Ben Nevis - Seats are tough to come by

Bar Varia Snow Factor, Xscape, Kings Inch Road, Southside See Arts Venues

NEW Bavarian Brauhaus 30 Bothwell Street, City Centre (Map 6: D4, 76) 0141 457 7100, bavariabrauhaus.com | £18 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Only selected breweries serve beer at the official halls at Munich’s Oktoberfest. These are the ‘big six’. The USP of the Bavarian Brauhaus is that it has them all (some weissbier, some ‘hells’ lager) on tap, all for around a fiver a pint. This, alongside a choice location in the financial district (remember Madness: Theatre of Fun?), sets the Brauhaus up well for after-work hordes and big groups at the weekend. Like all beer halls, it needs to be busy to bring its high, bright space to life, though there’s a merry soundtrack of oompah horns. Food is unashamedly predictable: roast chicken, veal in breadcrumbs, sausage platters (perhaps the most interesting choice, with smoked pâté and chicken varieties alongside more familiar fare). Generally a little under-seasoned, a tad overpriced – but being able to walk up to the bar and choose any of those great beers is the biggest pull here. + Munich biere - Food a bit pricey

The Belle

WINE & BEER

617 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: E1, 57) 0141 339 2299 | No Kids

Not a lot changes about village pub in the city the Belle, but the clientele like it that way. Regulars range from silver-haired chaps to students (postgrad more than undergrad) and always at least one dog it seems. On cold winter nights, come for the open fire and stay for the convivial atmosphere and range of premium boozes ranging from American beers Anchor Steam and The List Eating & Drinking Guide 117

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✱ HITLIST

BARS & PUBS ✱ Brutti Ma Buoni Part of the Brunswick Hotel, Brutti Ma Buoni is a continental-feeling bar with a chilled-out, cool vibe. ✱ Chinaski’s With dim lighting that makes everyone look good, this East Village-style speakeasy does good food and a bourbon range that’d make Bukowski proud. ✱ Redmond’s of Dennistoun A sociable community-minded Dennistoun bar where the ethos is do it right but don’t make a fuss. ✱ The Salisbury Modern Strathbungo bar and restaurant serving locally sourced fish dishes and boasting an individual menu of Scottish craft gins and tonic pairings.

✱ six°north Scottish brewers bringing a unique blend of Belgian beers and Flemish food to a big city bier halle setting

✱ The Sparkle Horse A neighbourhood bar where people in bands go for drinks, great value food and lively conversation when they found they’ve accidentally grown up. ✱ The Spiritualist Bar & Restaurant Sumptuous bistro-bar, with a show-stopping spirit selection, that’s an undeniably class act. ✱ The Vintage at Drygate Craft brewing meets innovative cooking in this East End industrial-styled beer wonderland Bier Halle 9 Gordon Street, City Centre (Map 6: E5, 111) 0141 204 0706, republicbierhalle.com | No Kids | £6.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

The steep steps leading down to the long-established Bier Halle may feel a little treacherous, but as soon as the door opens it becomes clear this is a drinking (and eating) den worth the careful descent. Industrial-inspired decoration with dark wooden benches keeps the large space feeling cool rather than clinical, and staff are attentive to their (often very many) customers. The place is famed for its buy-one-get-one-free deal on the range of pizzas – all 22 of them. Among the four new pizza options for this year is the excellent avocado and poached egg pizza, perhaps a hat tip to the indefatigable Instagram trend, complete with perfectly dippy yolk at the centre. Hundreds of beers might have you swithering at first, but take a stab in the dark and order one that looks unfamiliar. A new favourite might only be a sip away. + Monstrous selection of world beers - Signal-free basement so no card machine

Black Sparrow

Befitting its name, there is something almost Gothic about Charing Cross bar Black Sparrow – from the dim lighting to the steep-backed red leather booths and the mirrored gantry that showcases an impressive range of spirits, with a particular focus on bourbon. It’s not a huge space, and with the table set up, there’s not much standing room when pre-clubbers and the post-work crowd pile in, but for those who do grab a seat on ground floor or mezzanine the recently expanded menu provides an opportunity to tuck into one of a number of burgers and usual pub favourites. The bar’s big bonus lies outside, where a purpose-built beer garden is a winner in summer, especially when the kitchen gets its barbecue brushed down and fired up. + The weekend pre-club buzz - No slouching on straight-back seats

With a new food and cocktail menu focusing on modern classics, Bobar aims to capitalise on the publics burgeoning demand for authenticity. They’ve cunningly decided to simplify their menu by focusing on fresh local Scottish ingredients displayed through sumptuous meat, fish and vegetable sharing boards. Their raw ingredients kitchen will happily prepare the best cured meats, breads, dips and vegetables these shores have to offer while swiftly mixing together a classic cocktail to maximize the experience. The cocktails themselves are a discerning change from the previous menu with Old Fashioneds, Manhattans and White Ladies mixing with an Angostura Rum and sherry-infused Consulate. With these clever changes, Bobar hopes to blend the authentic with a heady mix of nostalgia while building on its already sizable popularity. + Fine cocktails - Bar staff may occasionally forget about you

Bloc+

La Boca

117 Bath Street, City Centre (Map 6: D3, 38) 0141 574 6066, bloc.ru | £3–5 (onecourse set lunch); £8.95 (daily 2 pizza deal) / £13 (dinner)

189 Hope Street, City Centre See Spanish

There is something wonderfully maniacal about the way Bloc+ operates. As staff admirably swirl and twist dispensing drinks, burgers and dogs there is a palpable sense of revolution in the air. Yet this is a bar which manages to ably cater for two distinctly separate customer bases. By day it services ravenous office staff, while after dark it’s all about live acts playing to those firmly on the fringes of mainstream society. Despite occasionally courting controversy via its gonzo advertising strategy Bloc+ is also much beloved by many as the instigator of fresh and free alternative music. The Doppleganger Bratwurst truly has to be seen to be believed while Vladamir Poutine fries are a treasure infinitely more appealing than their namesake. The wine selection is coercive while the bottled beer selection certainly gives cause for a conspiratorial glance between comrades. + Vladamir Poutine fries are a wise choice of side - Some tables a bit cramped

1120 South Street, West End See Spanish

241 North Street, City Centre (Map 9B: G2, 50) 0141 221 5530, theblacksparrow. co.uk | £16.50 (lunch) / £16.50 (dinner)

Blue Dog 151 West George Street, City Centre (Map 6: E3, 64) 0141 229 0707, bluedogglasgow.co.uk | No Kids

With exposed brick walls and subtle lighting, Blue Dog channels New York piano bar class, with a pianist tickling the ivories as you browse the extensive cocktail list. Along one wall row upon row of spirits and liqueurs make up one of the city’s best-stocked gantries and there’s a real focus on quality ingredients, from the espresso to the premium alcohol brands and the fresh fruit and herbs. Drinks are grouped by style rather than spirit, and include martinis, bubbles, connoisseurs and classics. The Bloody Moreish blends Bombay Sapphire with rhubarb liqueur and basil to a create a spicy cocktail with a seriously impressive depth of flavour. If sweet is your thing the Jekyll & Hyde mixes Goslings Rum and Patron coffee tequila liqueur with Nutella and cream. Only the brave should attempt the Super Zombie – double the alcohol, no extra juice. + Skilled mixologists will find your go-to cocktail - Can struggle for a seat at weekends

Bobar 383 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: D1, 49) 0141 341 6516, bovinerestaurant. com/essentials/bobar | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

La Bodega Tapas Bar

Booly Mardy’s 28 Vinicombe Street, West End (Map 9A: D1, 47) 0141 560 8004, boolymardys.com | No Kids | £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

An institution of the city’s cocktail scene, it’s easy to dismiss Booly Mardy’s as just another West End speakeasy. But to do so would be to miss out on some genuinely excellent cooking. Pork belly main, with melting fat and crispy skin worth breaking your teeth on, is served with fragrant deep-fried black budding balls and fondant potatoes richer and more golden than George Clooney with a tan. A melt-in-the-middle chocolate fondant, made to order, has ten on any high-end supermarket’s version and can come with some seriously impressive dessert wines if desired (ask for a flight – ideal for diners who fear commitment). It goes without saying that drinks are Booly Mardy’s speciality, and the cocktail menus – plus astute staff suggestions – don’t disappoint. But it’s the food – including a brunch list full of tempting options – that’s the true revelation here. + Neighbourhood dining a cut above the rest - Tables are quite tight on the weekend

Boteco do Brasil 62 Trongate, Merchant City See Round the World

Boudoir Wine Bar Merchant Square, Candleriggs, City Centre (Map 7: C2, 21) 0141 552 4774, boudoirwinebar.com | £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

The décor at Boudoir is lavish, some might say extravagant, and windows with a view of the Merchant City provide a living backdrop to a wide range of wines offered by the glass, with wine samplers allowing patrons to try four different wines for £10 – useful if you can’t decide between Grenache or Valpolicella Ripasso. A decadent choice is the sparking sampler at £20 but their cocktail list is also popular, with an Espresso Martini or a Kir Royale providing the perfect sip to start to a night out. Although the emphasis is on their extensive wine list – which comes with a wine tasting chart – they offer a small food menu featuring bruschettas and charcuterie/cheese selections. With cheese like Comte St Antoine and Langres, and French, Italian and Scottish

meats, these offer good value and are handy when after-work drinks happily last a little longer than expected. + Surprise addition of honey with the cheese selection - Remembering which wine is which with the sampler

The Brass Monkey 1004 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: E3, 41) 0141 243 2170, thebrassmonkeyglasgow.co.uk | No Kids

The distinctive triangular gable end building that houses the Brass Monkey is something of a marker for the start of the fabled strip of Finnieston that has been hailed as the hippest part of the city. Inside, the bar lacks much of the affectation of nearby venues and doesn’t offer any of the neighbourhood’s culinary delights. As a popular local meeting place, the Brass Monkey is where colleagues gather for a cocktail after work or enjoy a pint of craft beer ale while watching the football at weekends. Look out for a gig-related music policy and a creative, themed drinks menu before a concert at the Hydro when the party often starts here, creating a fun, buzzy atmosphere. During the week, the small bar room has plenty of comfortable corners for a chat with friends. + Good for watching sport or pre-gig drinks - Bar bites would be a welcome addition

The Brasserie at Òran Mór 731–735 Great Western Road, West End See Scottish

Brel 39–43 Ashton Lane, West End (Map 9A: C2, 31) 0141 342 4966, brelbar.com | £18 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

This Ashton Lane institution named after Belgian cultural icon Jacques was serving good strong continental beers way back when many of Glasgow’s now repurposed craft pubs were still swilling anonymous macro-brews. The improvements made by Oli Norman and Stephen White (who also own Sloans) since taking over in 2013 are inspired – fitted benches in the beer garden and a covered heated dining area. Inside, the conservatory is a fine place to dine as rain lashes the glass. They’ve left in lots of good stuff from the old days too – chiefly the moules-frîtes. Steaming hot pans of mussels with crispy fries come at superb value £6 before 6pm. Enjoy with a crisp white wine, assuming you can see past the broad beer selection – everything from locally brewed Kelburn Ales on tap to global bottles including the kamikaze strong (11.3%) Rochefort 10. Finish your meal thick Belgian waffles and ice-cream. + Sun’s out? Make for Brel - Shame they dispensed with live music

BrewDog Glasgow 1397 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: C1, 1) 0141 334 7175, brewdog.com | £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

A visit to the original Glasgow branch of their exponentially expanding international pub chain (a second bar in the Merchant City opened in 2015) offers their unique mix of nerdy hopsterism, unashamedly noisy branding and, naturally, good strong brews. With a glass frontage panoramically framing Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, this is a pub with a view. Something of a guinea-pig for the BrewDog chain in that it has served food since opening in 2011, albeit from a limited menu of sharing platters, hot dogs and burgers – the beef variants infused with 5am Saint red ale – that are simple but very satisfying. BrewDog’s core beer range – Punk IPA and the matter-of-factually titled This Is

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Lager included – need no introduction. Special brews of note change subject to availability, and can range from the treacley Libertine black ale to the citrusy Elvis Juice IPA. + Do we really need to tell you? - Food options limited

her, exiled teuchters and city-born gourmands alike can head along to the Butterfly & the Pig to get their dose of retro chintz and quality comfort grub. Décor is a charmingly acquired taste, as flock wallpaper fights for attention with embroidered napkins and zany-patterned lampshades. Equally, menus, filled with riddle-like write-ups, read like an excerpt from Alice’s adventures, but embrace the madness and you’ll be richly rewarded. A starter of wild mushroom and white wine tart is alliteratively and gastronomically superb, with an added shaving of parmesan for richness and a dollop of crème fraîche to enliven tastebuds. Salmon and dill are bosom buddies in a Spanish frittata for main, but a word of warning – portions are enormous, so there’s no need to order sides. Of that, your nan would undoubtedly approve. + There’s nowhere quite like it in the city - Fans of Scandi-chic interiors need not apply

Brutti Compadres 3 Virginia Court, Merchant City (Map 7: A2, 4) 0141 552 1777, brutticompadres. com | £9 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Padron peppers. Yes – here. Delicious, salty green bullets of Spanish happiness that every once in a while deliver a blast of heat. Add juicy house red – and repeat. To reach pepper heaven turn left off a gloomy city street, along cobbles and through the courtyard. As kitsch red chilli lampshades enliven the continental wine cellar vibe, the contrast of exposed pipework and overhanging vines embodies the ugly but good – brutti ma buoni – concept shared with its compadres at the Brunswick Hotel. This Mediterranean mix continues on the menu where wee plates host a whistle-stop tour of southern Europe. Hip but never too cool, tables fill and turn over quickly. Three dishes for £9 is great value and encourages sharing and negotiating over last morsels. Tender chicken skewers, juicy garlic prawns and salty fried squid disappear off those plates quickly – and then there are those peppers. + Tempting tapas - Incongruous artwork

✱

Brutti Ma Buoni

Brunswick Hotel, 106 Brunswick Street, Merchant City (Map 7: B2, 13) 0141 552 0001, brunswickhotel.co.uk | £5 (onecourse set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Brel: one of the city’s most popular spots for getting outdoors

Reminiscent of a bar somewhere warmer than Scotland thanks to its chilled tunes and glass frontage overlooking a good-sized terrace, this is a venue with an altogether different feel from its super-luxe Merchant City peers. Informal dining is the name of the game at Brutti ma Buoni (Italian for ‘ugly but good’), though it should be said that the bar’s title is something of a misnomer seeing as its interiors and dishes are rather attractive. Its capacious menu is Med-inspired and features brutti breads, a kind of thin, wonky pizza with gregarious toppings such as Italian beans and rosemary, plus there’s an array of small plates including seared artichokes guaranteed to cut through the generous amount of oil used to cook deep-fried halloumi and flash-fried prawns. Equally,

it’s a fine spot to enjoy a pleasingly warmed Rioja or Aperol Spritz without food, gazing out of the floor-to-ceiling windows and dreaming of sunnier climes. + Unusually relaxed for the Merchant City - Jostling for a much-coveted sunny seat outside

The Bungo Bar & Kitchen 17–21 Nithsdale Road, Southside See Bistros & Brasseries

The Butterfly and the Pig 153 Bath Street, City Centre (Map 6: D2, 30) 0141 221 7711, thebutterflyandthepig.com | £12.50 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Hankering after granny’s home cooking? Instead of heading up the road to see

The Butterfly and the Pig @ the Corona 1039 Pollokshaws Road, Southside (Map 8: A4, 18) 0141 632 6230, thebutterflyandthepig.com | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Despite being in the eye of the hipster hurricane hovering over Glasgow’s Southside, there’s a range of generations at the bar and the retro but stylish dining room. Graceful cornicing is the closest visitors get to a glimpse of the old Corona as knowingly nudge-nudge vintage curtains by well-loved sofas are in the quirky style for which the citycentre sibling is known. Order a pot of tea and marvel as it arrives in your granny’s best china or dip into a Scottishbrewed Schiehallion before tackling the

Begin a journey of beer discovery with my following steps: COLOUR: Marvel at the beer’s colour before you begin to taste. Don’t be afraid of cloudiness, for wheat beers this is normal and carries a lot of flavour. The same goes for dark beers such as stout, not all are rich and heavy; and not all pale ales are light!

Don’t judge a beer by its colour A guru’s guide to beer tasting Kieran Hartley – Beer Guru for The New World Trading Company, including The Glasgow Trading House.

The key to beer tasting is curiosity. It’s easy to order a style of beer you know you like, but you’re unlikely to ever discover anything new! We have over 80 world famous real beers and ales at The Glasgow Trading House so there’s plenty to be discovered. Each beer you taste should hold a new experience – good or bad! It’s this experience that makes beer tasting enjoyable and allows you to remember your favourite beers.

SMELL: Try short, quick sniffs to smell your beer otherwise you risk smelling the room around you. You may be able to smell bread, caramel or even coffee (which comes from the malted barley) and grapefruit, peach or pineapple (from the hops). Savour the aroma to later enhance the tasting experience. TASTE: The most important part! You may be able to taste the aromas and identify if the beer has a sweet or dry taste. For those that enjoy a fruitier taste try Passionate Blonde, an ale living up to its name with the taste of passion fruit, brewed exclusively for The New World Trading Company.

Continue your journey of beer discovery with an ale tasting session in our Ale Emporium at The Glasgow Trading House. To book, call: 0141 223 7010 or email: glasgowbdm@thetradinghouse.uk.com

thetradinghouse.uk.com

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robust menu. Portions are ample, options plentiful and it aims to please without trying too hard. A black pudding and quail egg starter is given a twist with sliced apple and the ham broth is classic stick-to-your-ribs stuff. In the same vein, there’s a substantial steak with rich peppercorn sauce on the side to fuel afternoons and evenings enjoying a pint or two. + Has its own style - Dry pie

as fresh as it is flaky, and surrounded by deep-red heritage potatoes, while Sunday roast is a particular highlight. + Cold beer in front of warm fire - Tables could do with a deep clean

Darcy’s The Courtyard, Princes Square, City Centre (Map 6: F5, 105) 0141 226 4309, darcysglasgow.co.uk | £13.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

NEW Chequers Cocktail House & Grill 665 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: E1, 54) 0141 237 4471, chequersglasgow.co.uk | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

The soft glow of its red lights will likely make it too enticing to pass by this Great Western Road venue, and anyone who does walk past is making a terrible mistake. With the lighting and music both pitched perfectly it’s easy to get comfortable in the well-designed small space with a mezzanine and homely outdoor spot extending its capacity. Cocktails are the big draw from a bespoke menu running to six pages. A marmalade-infused Mojito exemplifies the mixologists’ imagination, and the range of martinis could have Bond pondering his options. The menu doesn’t have the same imagination as the drinks, but the quality is up there. An all-American cheeseburger is refined, though better suited to a bottle of craft beer than a cocktail, while crab cakes are so packed they’re bursting out of their breadcrumbs. Whether dinner, drinks or Sunday brunch, Chequers has it licked. + Exemplary cocktails

DogHouse Merchant City: a second venue in town for BrewDog’s beer and BBQ - Knowing you can’t try every cocktail

✱

Chinaski’s

239 North Street, West End (Map 9B: G2, 51) 0141 221 0061, chinaskis.com | £17 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

the expertise of the Clockwork brewers when the sun’s out. + Microbrewery beer - Fairly standard pub offerings

The Crafty Pig

Horizontal slatted blinds and moochie candlelight create the impression that you’ve stumbled into the kind of New York bar that Bukowski himself might have ordered a drink in – and with over 50 bourbons there’s no doubt he would have stuck around. Cocktails such as an Old Fashioned or Amaretto Sour are expertly mixed and the modest wine list is thoughtful. Food offers choice for both snackish drinkers and hungry diners, from the small plates the devilled whitebait is plump, juicy and tastes of the sea and the garlicky gambas pil pil is also great – though maybe not for a first date. Mains like dukkah-crusted pumpkin and halloumi warm salad sit alongside pizzas and the Chinaski burger – served with skinny fries, chorizo and jalapeños. At weekends, DJs play chilled-out electronica, soul and disco, perfect if you’re stopping off for a libation before dancing in the Berkley Suite next door. + Laid-back atmosphere and perfect date lighting - No sign – look for the pawnbrokers sign next door

508 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: F1, 60) 0141 237 4040, craftypig.com | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Citation

Curlers Rest

40 Wilson Street, Merchant City See Bistros & Brasseries

256–260 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: C1, 43) 0141 341 0737, thecurlersrestglasgow.co.uk | £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Clockwork Beer Co 1153–1155 Cathcart Road, Southside (Map 8: D6, off) 0141 649 0184 | £13 (set lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Don’t be fooled by the run-of-the mill exterior or the humdrum pub menu. Behind the scenes here, there’s something unusual happening that’s worth travelling the extra mile for if you’re a beer enthusiast. On the city’s outskirts, in the shadow of the national stadium, lies this microbrewery that’s been quietly serving up craft beer since it was but a glint in a marketing manager’s eye. The craft lager is light and crisp, IPA refreshingly bitter and, for the partisan, an optimistic Hampden Roar invokes memories of past sporting glories. Another well-kept secret is the beer garden that’s a fine spot to enjoy

Taking their passion for quality produce and on-trend drinks, the team behind Lebowskis and Porter & Rye have created a haven for sport, beer and the sort of food that any self-respecting diner will dig into sans cutlery. The menu is packed with American favourites, from sloppy burgers to topped dogs and sticky wings (in nine varieties) and ribs. There’s plenty of flavour in the smoked beans-topped Dog, and sides such as eye-watering hot poppers are well worth adding to the order. Over 50 beers are on offer, along with a range of Boilermakers, allowing punters to try a half pint with a matching whisky. If that’s not your thing, try a boozy milkshake – there’s even a baconflavoured concoction. A glut of TV screens show all manner of sport, and you can even participate on one of the pool tables to the rear. + Boilermakers – novel combo for whisky and beer fans - Too many TVs

Curlers Rest has a backstory taking in King Charles II and Victorian-era iceskating. Today it bears the hallmarks of a village pub dropped in a city, whose dim-lit atmosphere works best upstairs in front of the wood fire with a pint from one of the 24 draught lines. Its various nooks provide differing atmospheres, giving student groups and young families a favourite spot. The food perfectly matches its environment – all earthy and unpretentious. Small plates stir up a moreish kale and goat’s cheese croquette, while flatbreads put a rustic spin on pub pizzas. The farmyard burger, a curious composition of beef patty, pork confit and fried egg, is a knife and fork job for all but the widest of jaws. There’s a touch more delicacy in a sea bass fillet,

As a bar which really goes out of it’s way to make drinkers and diners feel comfortable, the G1 Group’s Darcy’s ticks all the boxes for those who enjoy family dining or treating their significant other to a glass of wine from a wellchosen list and a sumptuous meal. Staff are attentive to the extreme, determined that you relax and let them do all the work. The beef bourguignon is rather special, and seasoned in keeping with French tradition. Its central location in Glasgow’s designer shopping centre makes Darcy’s a firm favourite for families and ladies who lunch but it also ably caters for those wishing a quick power lunch or a lively evening cocktail. Stop in for their popular Sunday roast or even book in for a new cocktail masterclass given by staff who really know what they’re doing. + Very attentive staff - Open areas can get a bit chilly

Distill 1102–1106 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 30) 0141 337 3006, distillbar. co.uk | £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Nestled within the plethora of neon lights that now adorn the fashionable Finnieston strip, one could all too easily bypass Distill. Don’t be fooled though, this is a bar worth turning into. For those who pray to the god of rum this is the hallowed city, holding the largest of cane-sugar selections this side of Greenwich Mean Time. Bar staff will happily mix a Blackwell’s Jamaican rum or an Angostura 1919 with fresh fruit to create something really rather memorable. Distill’s tacos are the stuff of legend to the pre-club crowd, and the mix will invariably suit those who equally enjoy the latest ambient house and classic techno emanating from the DJ booth. For a real treat try the Andalusian fish stew with chorizo, potato and peas or the falafel wrap with harissa, Turkish salad and flatbread. + Lots of rum. Seriously, loads - Could do with a bit of a spruce up

NEW DogHouse Merchant City 99 Hutcheson Street, Merchant City (Map 7: B2, 12) 0141 552 6363, brewdog. com/bars/uk/doghouse-merchant-city | £8 (set lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Upon entering this latest instalment in BrewDog’s burgeoning brand, it won’t take long to realise that DogHouse is an establishment determined to do things rather differently than most other bars. The dedication to beer is staggering as options on their taster menu change on a daily basis. While Punk IPA is a quality house beer, staff here aren’t precious about their brand as the adjoining bottle shop testifies by offering over 250 different varieties – which you can purchase and drink on-site. Where things get really distinct, however, is with the canteen-style kitchen where patrons line up for a quarter or half pound of sticky pulled pork or a rack of baby back ribs – the Trinity Sampler (ribs, pork, beef) might seem a bit pricey at £14.95 but it is truly worth an attempt. If pairing food and craft beer is your thing then DogHouse is certainly man’s best friend. + The choice of beer is massive - Seating is not built for comfort

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The Doublet 74 Park Road, West End (Map 9A: F2, 78) 0141 334 1982 | No Kids

The future of this 50-year-plus favourite was in doubt last year when owner Alistair Don retired, but after much uncertainty, it was snapped up by the team who run the CCA’s Saramago Café Bar. The old pub remains as loved as ever, with its traditional look and feel retained, and its iconic glowing red livery still a beacon from a distance for drinkers young and old. The venue no longer serves food, but if it’s a friendly pint you’re after, your appetite will be sated. Cask ales are the star of the show (though the wine offer is much improved), with rotating brews from across the UK along with decent malts. Whether you mix it with regulars in the often busy main bar or head upstairs to the lounge, the welcome is friendly and the atmosphere warm. The Doublet, it would seem, is in safe hands. + The warm welcome - No food

The Drake 1 Lynedoch Street, West End (Map 9B: F1, 48) 0141 332 7363, thedrakebar.co.uk | £13 (lunch) / £13 (set dinner)

Live in the city but don’t own a second home in the country? Don’t be glum, because the Drake’s got you covered. With a glorious roaring fire and sumptuous leather seating, the comfort of which would make even the sturdiest Chesterfield blush a dark crimson, all the trappings of country living are a mere hansom cab ride away. In the dimly lit downstairs bar they have resolved to serve a fresh pared-down menu that offers a great selection of classics from tender lamb shank or the Drake burger

with blue cheese to the special Arnold Bennett omelette with smoked haddock and skinny fries. Upstairs at the weekend it’s a more lavish affair with a wellchosen selection of game and meats. Whichever way you go, don’t forget to sample the Hop House ale or an Old Fashioned, lovingly prepared by the most consummate staff in town. + Homely feel meets great food - No disabled access

of drinks promos as well as efficiently prepared classic cocktails, such as a Flaming Zombie for the more ambitious. + Plenty of food deals - Italian menu has some lesser known ingredients

The Finnieston

Set on a back street less-trodden in Yorkhill, just up from Kelvingrove Museum, the family-run Grumpy Goat has a homely, down-to-earth, well-kept but lived-in feel. A traditional Glasgow corner bar has been revived with a lick of pale blue paint and some stylish pavement furniture, and a tasteful assortment of features and bric-a-brac decorations inside, from a preserved mahogany gantry to comfy Chesterfield sofas and vintage floor lamps. The bright and bustling bar leads through to a dedicated rear restaurant area, with a service hatch giving glimpses of the busy kitchen. Husband and wife owners Tony and Carolyn Matteo are from a family with a rich heritage in the Glasgow dining trade, particularly seafood restaurants, so it’s no surprise to find a delicious fishcake with tarragon and lemon mayonnaise, shellfish linguini, seafood risotto and beer-battered haddock. They handle meat such as medallions of venison with equal class and experience. Creamy vanilla panacotta with fresh fruit compote to finish is the best dish of the lot. You will not leave grumpy. + Great example of a neighborhood haunt - A more focused menu would give a stronger identity

1125 Argyle Street, West End See Fish

Firebird 1321 Argyle Street, West End See Bistros & Brasseries

The Grosvenor Café The Grosvenor Theatre, Ashton Lane, West End (Map 9A: C2, 33) 0845 166 6028, grosvenorcafe.co.uk | £11.50 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

In a cobbled lane of petite bars this sprawling converted picture theatre above the Grosvenor Cinema offers plenty of space for families, film lovers utilising the dinner and movie deals and big groups of drinkers looking to spread out. The Italian-inspired menu focuses on pizza and pasta but there’s also pub classics and the option to eat tapas-style with small plates. The chilli-scattered Buffalo wings pack a punch and are well paired with a cooling gorgonzola dip, while a crispy squid portion is more generous on the lemon mayo than the fish. Hand-stretched pizzas are topped with innovative combinations, including homemade pork and beef meatballs with truffled pecorino and crispy sage. The sizeable central bar serves plenty

The Grumpy Goat 90 Old Dumbarton Road, West End (Map 9B: B1, 7) 0141 237 4730, thegrumpygoatglasgow.co.uk | £12 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

TIPLIST FOR TAKING THE DOG • Artisan Roast The cool serenity here makes it an ideal spot to hide away from the world with your pooch. 135 • Firebird A neighbourhood institution close to Kelvingrove Museum with a welcoming vibe for all. 131 • Inn Deep Dog-friendly riverside bar with over 70 bottled beers, plus a spacious beer garden. 122 • The Strathmore This attractively refurbed pub is the sort of local every man and his dog wants. 127 • Stravaigin Café Bar Full of great food and beer, Stravaigin is a welcome haven for wandering dog walkers. 134 • Tchai-Ovna House of Tea A transcendent celebration of Slovak tea house culture tucked away in Glasgow’s West End. 141

The Hill 94 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: C2, 26) 0141 339 8558, thehillbyresroad.com | £9.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Huge windows that frame the Byres Road bustle define this bright, corner venue, where stripped back walls and

BREWERY · BAR · RESTAURANT BOTTLE SHOP · VENUE · TERRACE ACHIEVE THE EXCEPTIONAL Open doors, open minds: whatever it takes,

0141 212 8815 | WWW.DRYGATE.COM | 85 DRYGATE, GLASGOW G4 0UT

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ridiculously cool pendant lights create an air of contemporary elegance. The Hill offers a good mix of beer, wine and cocktails. Yes there’s craft beer, but not obsessively so – the more intriguing offer is draught cocktails, the blackcurrant Mojito almost shimmers it’s so summery. On the food side, there’s enough here to satisfy – a range of burgers offers up something almost refined in scale relative to some rivals, while homespun favourites such as steak pie have their own quirks, in this case chorizo providing a bite. There are smaller plates for those looking for just wine and nibbles, and a limited but enticing weekend brunch menu. It’s not easy becoming established on Byres Road but the Hill is scaling the heights. + Those huge windows - Limited vegetarian options

The Howlin’ Wolf 100 Bath Street, City Centre (Map 6: D3, 41) 0141 333 3333, thehowlinwolf.co.uk | £10 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

SARAH J STANLEY ON WHY PEOPLE WANT COFFEE MORE THAN THEY WANT ART I’m ten years into a career that takes a long time to pursue, and a lot of energy to maintain belief in. Some of my skills lead to commercial gain, but most don’t immediately, so like most professional artists or musicians, a large chunk of what I have to do is simply endure. It’s a difficult dichotomy for creative practitioners – you need to pay your rent but you also need a huge amount of time alone in a non-market based environment, like your studio, to make something authentic and sincere. I find coffee to be a great companion to preserving my mental energy only for my actual job: making art and writing music. It provides me with the caffeine I need to pick up the tools of my trade and to make a wee buck on the side to pay for my studio. People don’t want art like they want caffeine and food, something I’m happy to make use of through running a café next to my studio. Stan’s is situated in a separate front part of my studio property. This way, I get to hang out in either my studio, or a café with great coffee and occasional company, so it works well for right now. My studio is a nonnegotiable essential for all parts of my profession, and so I do what I need to maintain a space that is just mine. If I can manage to do that by making people a coffee alongside mine, I’m happy. ■ Sarah J Stanley is an artist, musician and owner of Stan’s Studio (see page 141), Glasgow’s first pay-what-you-want coffee house. sarahjstanley.com

More of a bar with a theme than a theme bar, Howlin’ Wolf serves up soul food flavours with a blues soundtrack in a bright, open room until the wee small hours each morning. Here Bath Street diners can sample a slice of Americana that’s on the right side of kitsch. During the day, office workers and students descend in search of stacked burgers, Cajun spices and gumbo. However, not all the menu is straight from the bayou – their thin and crispy pizzas are popular with a beer while lounging in one of the red leather booths. Local bands play here most nights bringing a more lively vibe, and the food continues with bar bites served until 2am – offering night-owls an alternative to the chippy – with eclectic options such as haggis tempura, piri piri chicken and squid. + Great comfort food - At night, music fans take over

used for the quality cocktails that are the headline attraction. Staff recommend the Lychee Martini and West End Iced Tea while the Cherups Cup is another favourite. If the interior design lacks intimacy, hop up on to raised booths and sample the menu of upmarket pub grub on offer. The food may not excite the mind and palate quite as much as the top-class cocktail, but Gressingham duck, tempura prawns or mushroom gnocchi are attractive options, while the Dunsyre Blue variation raises the bar for burgers. + A cocktail list straight out of Mad Men - Could use a little heating on colder nights

ear and when it’s meatball fettucine in sweet tomato sauce, that’s even better. Homemade veggie soup changes daily, while the burger buns come from Finnieston bakery Seb and Mili’s. By night, the bar feels like an entirely different beast when throngs of giggoers pack the tables enjoying a Westbrewed King Tut’s lager en route to the infamously intimate live venue upstairs. + Good-value mains - Service-station espresso

Inn Deep

How ironic that a dressing-gowned man of low ambition – the Dude in the Coen Brothers’ movie The Big Lebowski – should have become the inspirational start of an expanding hospitality empire, taking in nearby The Finnieston and Porter & Rye, plus a few other city-wide venues. In this low-lit hangout with a sign declaring ‘Abide’, remain some simple, dependable pleasures – mainly burgers by way of food, washed down with the Dude’s drink of choice: White Russian cocktails (they mix almost 30 variants of caucasian). One burger is stacked so tall you practically need two mouths – between distant halves of brioche bun lie a beef patty, a mac ’n’ cheese fritter (yes, this is a thing), smoked bacon, molasses jam, tomato and lettuce. The Karl Hungus White Russian – White Mozart Chocolate liqueur, crème de banana, chocolate sauce and 50/50 milk and cream – is as much a liquid dessert as it is a cocktail. + A great buzz when it’s busy – which is often - Undignified squeeze into a too-narrow window booth

445 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: F2, 67) 0141 357 1075, inndeep.com | £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Beer reins supreme in this riverside bar decorated with monochrome murals of boozing animals. There are over 70 bottled varieties in the fridges, cask and keg options that change daily and a spacious beer garden in which to enjoy them. Beer also features in the food, with tender brisket soaked in Midnight Sun Porter and a steak pie flavoured with Blackball Stout. The menu includes classic pub grub and BBQ, while an impressive list of burger and pizza toppings, including hot naga chilli sauce, grilled prawn and roast garlic, allows you to get creative. Red ale slow-cooked pork ribs come so mountainous they are delivered with a “good luck” – the accompanying Joker-battered onion rings are beautifully crispy. If any morsel should fall on the floor it’ll be hoovered up by one of the many canine clientele whose owners stop in to enjoy a drink as they walk along the Kelvin. + Tender meats slow-cooked with craft beer - Initial damp smell when you first arrive

Kelvingrove Café NEW The Hug & Pint 171 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: H3, 85) 0141 331 1901, thehugandpint. com | £8 (lunch) / £10 (dinner)

Most people who encounter the tender embrace of the Hug and Pint become an evangelist for its singular charms. An icon of Woodlands’ burgeoning play to be the epicentre of West End food trends, here you’ll find genuinely impressive vegan dishes, often served to the soundtrack of local musicians who play and eat here. Before you look at the craft beer menu and shout ‘cliche’, they are firmly hip, not hipster here. It’s a surprisingly successful formula – it turns out the vegan venue Glasgow never knew it wanted was exactly the kind of place it needed. Take a seat on the wooden benches and start loading up on healthy combinations such as spiced coconut soup and pickled papaya salad or taste the unusual with mushroom rice pudding, crispy shallots and pickled onion. Their kitchen serves five or so dishes a day -– and yes, they are named after the Arab Strap song. + Friendly staff and cool vibe - Menu may be too experimental for some

1163 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 22) 0141 221 8988, kelvingrovecafe. com | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

This chic spot sits in the heart of fashionable Finnieston yet manages to be unashamedly old-fashioned in all the right ways. A combination as adept as the cocktails it’s renowned for – a Flowing Bowl, named after a 19th-century cocktail bible, is a delicious tankard of rum, brandy and peach tea. Daisy de Santiago, accurately described as a daiquiri with benefits, is a complex concoction not scared to blend sour with sweet. The timeless interior could be from the 1920s – it’s as if Jay Gatsby gave the local pub a makeover. A beautifully finished wood floor, opulently large mirror and elegant bar provide a perfect setting for cocktails that fill up tables that are packed most nights. By day it provides surprisingly good brunches and bakes proving there’s a neighbourhood café amidst the Bellinis and Martinis. + Timeless style and cocktails to match - Food is a bit pricey

Ketchup 18 Moss Side Road, Southside See Steakhouses & Burgers

Hyde 9–17 Partick Bridge Street, West End (Map 9A: B4, 16) 0141 212 4870, hydeglasgow.com | £19 (lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Bringing fashionista fun to a forgotten corner of the West End, there’s no mistaking Hyde’s aspirations to style bar status. It’s a minimalist space with chic leather seating, framed by a striking mural of irregular panels and an elegant gantry adorned with a wrought metal tree, which cradles a range of spirits

King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut 272a St Vincent Street, City Centre (Map 6: B3, 61) 0141 221 5279, kingtuts.co.uk | Closed Sun (unless gig on) | £6 (set lunch) / £10.50 (dinner)

Low-key lunch by day, iconic rock by night: was there ever such a drastic reinvention since Dylan went electric? Luckily, the food is no difficult second album so similar controversy is unlikely. Two mains for £12 through the week would make a goth grin from ear to

Lebowskis 1008 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: E2, 40) 0141 564 7988, lebowskis.co.uk | £10 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

The Left Bank 33–35 Gibson Street, West End See Bistros & Brasseries

Lucky 7 Canteen 166 Bath Street, City Centre (Map 6: C2, 19) 0141 331 6227, lucky7canteen. co.uk | Closed Sun/Mon | £10 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Bang in the centre of the drinking strip that is Bath Street, Lucky 7 offers laidback dining. In high-backed booths beneath the artfully peeling wallpaper, bargain hunters can get lunch and a soft drink with just a five pound note. As evening rolls round, the melodic house music shifts to disco and club-goers enjoy cocktails and Camden Hells craft beer before heading next door to sister venue Flat 0/1. The menu tagline states ‘food yer mammy made’, and features plenty of home cooking favourites such as fish and chips, steak pie and macaroni cheese – but mammy also has creative flair, with peppered strawberries and burnt lime mayo. From their selection of vegetarian dishes the hearty Moroccan sweet potato and chickpea stew is subtly spiced, while the fried chicken special boasts a rustic crispy coating. With such good value mains it would be daft not to order the cheesecake of the day, a New York-style treat oozing raspberry sauce. + Great value home-cooking served with a smile - Toilets shared with next door party bar Flat 0/1

NEW MacGregors Pie & Ale Howff 5 Blackfriars Street, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 26) | 0141 552 5012 | £6 (onecourse lunch) / £6 (one-course dinner)

From the folks behind the Butterfly & the Pig group of bars and cafés comes this new offering. Set on a quiet, historically palpable Merchant City street, it’s

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utilising Scotland’s most infamous tipple. A blunt choice of accompaniments – beans or mushy peas – add up to an enjoyable, albeit limited, food offering. + Pies and ales of the highest order - Pie choice limited later on

Maggie May’s 60 Trongate, Merchant City (Map 7: C3, 34) 0141 548 1350, maggiemays.info | £12.95 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

The Strathmore (page 127): an enticing refurbed local on Maryhill Road

about as old-school as a pub gets, with gambling machine, dartboard, sport on the telly, and a split between bar and lounge sides. The name about says it all: they do ales and pies. There’s plenty of Scottish interest in both, with rotating drinks from national breweries such as Top Out, Alechemy and Fallen. The pies,

made in the highly competent Butterfly kitchen, are proper pies – none of this casserole with a pastry lid nonsense. Several fillings include a few with a Scots accent: venison, haggis, an enjoyable breakfast version containing black pud, sausage, mushroom and beans, while ‘duckfast’ is a richly satisfying number

With a 3am licence and a commitment to rock’n’roll, this year Maggie May’s reaches double digits with a formidable following gathered over the last decade. Its location helps – on the fringe of the Merchant City, opposite the Tron Theatre and one of the nearest (decent) watering holes to the Barrowland Ballroom. A pleasantly unaffected atmosphere brings together shoppers, sports fans and music lovers. The menu aims to have something for every one of them, skipping across the globe with tempura, curry, piri piri, and much more. Perhaps it spreads itself a tad thin, but Americana pub classics fare best – a chilli dog is both stodgy and spicy, doing exactly what it’s meant to. And the burgers (as in sister venues Howlin’ Wolf and Slouch), are full-on with decent flavour. The market menu offers variety and value, and the separate dining section at the back is a lovely space from which to enjoy the tunes. + Late-night eating with a cool soundtrack - Menu could be smaller and tighter

Malone’s Irish Bar 57–59 Sauchiehall Lane, City Centre (Map 6: D2, 40) 0141 332 8899, malonesbarglasgow.com | £10 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Malone’s is instantly recognisable as

an Irish bar. The dark wood fixtures, whiskey barrel motifs and traditional bric-a-brac all announce the character of this cosy spot. Add in a warm welcome from the staff and there’s the promise of good times from a formula repeated the world over. What makes Malone’s stand out is an admirable commitment to serving up quality comfort food. While most probably visit here to quaff stout, watch football matches in a convivial atmosphere, or catch a live band with friends, the menu here is also worth attention. They’ll wake you up with a sturdy breakfast, served every day – a three-egg omelette if you are feeling healthy, the full Irish fry-up if you are feeling delicate. Lunch brings wraps, sandwiches, soup and pasta, with Malone’s Irish stew as another nod to the Emerald Isle. An ideal place for weekend grazing or after-work quick bites. + Friendly neighbourhood bar in the centre - Casual dining only, which won’t suit everyone

Meat Bar 142 West Regent Street, City Centre (Map 6: D3, 36) 0141 204 3605, themeatbar.co.uk | £10 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Within an unassuming basement locale, this bar prides itself on dishing up quality burgers, cocktails and good beer. Housing its own American pit smoker for giving the likes of ribs the 12-hour treatment, Meat’s choice steak – sourced from Byres Road butcher Tom Rodgers – that arrives on your plate has that essential and distinctive Southern flavour, while their range of burgers are well prepared. Where this bar really excels is in its great choice of beer and cocktails, serving up the sublime Unforgiven Red Rye from

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Tempest Brewery or the Peach Julep with Bourbon. While this bar is a slow starter during lunchtimes, by evening it’s thronged with those seeking sustenance and a quality beer before heading home or heading into town. Stop in also for a quick cocktail, some of which, having a meaty theme, may not be to everyone’s taste . . . mainly vegetarians. + The interior is well laid out - Too few staff on

Meathook 2 Partick Bridge Street, West End See Steakhouses & Burgers

Metropolitan Merchant Square, Candleriggs, Merchant City See Bistros & Brasseries

Mono 12 Kings Court , King Street, Merchant City (Map 7: B4, 41) 0141 553 2400, monocafebar.com | £11.50 (lunch) / £11.50 (dinner)

Music is strong at Mono, evidenced as soon as you enter, with stage on the right and Monorail record shop on the left. The connection to the Glasgow music scene makes this place something of a Glasgow institution and, along with places such as Saramago and Stereo, it helps to make the city a very vegan-friendly place. On the animal-free menu you will find fava dip, to fish’n’chips, and seitan (or ‘wheat meat’) burger with hand-cut chips. For dessert, the chocolate fudge banana split ice-cream sundae is surprisingly good and they are rightly proud of their homebrewed ginger beer, and raspberry and rose lemonade – made on the premise in large, shiny brewing vats. There’s lots of space for the regular gigs, DJs and art events, which also makes it popular with families, particularly when the baby disco is on. + Have a drink and buy records in the same place - Long gap between courses

Mora Bar & Kitchen 1166–1170 Argyle Street, West End See Italian

Nice ’n’ Sleazy: popular rock bar now with Babu Bombay Street Kitchen dishing up the Indian eats

an owner that knows the neighbourhood inside and out, Mulberry is a welcome juxtaposition to the often faceless bars of the city centre. With easily more seafood on the menu than Captain Ahab could angrily shake a stick at, this place is a great choice for those who know what they want and how they want it. The menu hasn’t changed much for a while, and why should it when you do it this well? For starters the Cullen skink is a salty and creamy celebration of the sea, while the pan-fried swordfish is meaty but packed with flavour. In the bar they offer craft ales to either set you up or sooth your senses after a busy day. + Comfort is everything here - Could use a refresh on décor

Munro’s Moskito 200 Bath Street, City Centre (Map 6: C2, 17) 0141 331 1777, moskitoglasgow.com | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Proudly boasting that 15 years have now passed since this bar became synonymous with Bath Street’s bar scene, Moskito has successfully shifted with the times to remain popular. DJs and a 2am licence at the weekend keep revellers pouring in, but Moskito also manages to excel as a lower-key evening bar. Booths line the long, open floor space, maintaining privacy while retaining a sociable feel. Its beer menu has evolved as craft has risen, while the kitchen too feeds current trends. Burgers and pizza are present and correct, (check for two-for one offers on weekdays) – and a gooey mac and cheese served in a cast-iron pot is fantastic, particular when served with jalapeños. But it’s the light bites that stand out, from bite-sized filo pastry ‘sausage rolls’ to a black pudding scotch egg with crisp shell and warm, runny yolk, the menu is awash with little gems. + Small bites - Weekends can be too busy for dining

Mulberry Street Bar Bistro 778 Pollokshaws Road, Southside (Map 8: C3, 13) 0141 424 0858, mulberrystbarbistro.com | £6.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

On a corner often drenched in Southside sun sits Mulberry St, a bar and bistro that has been keeping the area’s end up even before it became fashionable. With

185 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: H3, 84) 0141 332 0972 | £5.50 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

A favoured spot for Subway commuters, professional West End characters and rugby fans, Munro’s has the whole modern dining bar vibe down to a fine art. Part of the new wave of craft ale devotees, inside Munro’s the design cues are as you would expect from this particular breed of bar: bare brick, mismatched furniture in cosy corners, leather booths, chrome fittings, bright lighting. Yet this is not a paint-bynumbers operation, there’s real soul here, a sense of community and an enthusiasm that’s infectious. There’s also loaded burgers – the Sloppy Joe with chilli, cheese and sour cream a particular recommendation – as well as gastro hot dogs and all the bar bites you could desire. If you are partial to the classic combination of pizza and beer, remember Munro’s offer two classic pizzas or pasta dishes for a tenner all day Monday to Friday. A relatively newcomer in the area, they’re scaling new heights on Great Western Road. + Great for casual dining - Can be taken over by sports fans on match day

Nice ’n’ Sleazy 421 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre (Map 6: A2, 4) 0141 333 0900, nicensleazy.com | £12 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

While something of a Glasgow institution and a veteran indie presence on this

entertaining stretch of Sauchiehall Street loaded with restaurants and bars, Nice ’n’ Sleazy is far from resting on its laurels. Usually the excitement around this atmospheric rock bar is generated by a musical collaboration but this year food fans are stirred by the arrival of a new menu by Babu Bombay Street Kitchen. Now Sleazy’s boasts inventive spicy treats for vegans and meat-eaters courtesy of the Babu crew who have won acclaim for their pop-ups and West Regent Street café. Early arrivals should try the Full Bombay Breakfast while stand-out lunchtime dishes include a Goanese chicken wrap or lamb kofta nan sandwich. Expect impeccably prepared street food that packs a tasty punch with raw, fresh flavours. Sleazy’s appeals to an eclectic crowd, catering for distinct audiences with acclaimed club nights, film screenings and a consistently impressive roster of bands performing almost every night. + Cracking new menu and great service - Music bar atmosphere not for everyone

The Pacific 562 Dumbarton Road, West End (Map 9A: A3, off) 0141 334 9000, pacificglasgow.com | £5.95 (Mon–Fri set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Younger sister of the Tiki Bar in the city, the Pacific largely rolls out the same package of mix-and-match Pacific Rim food and exuberant cocktails. There are bamboo fittings and light-up blowfish hanging from the ceiling, while buxom hula girls adorn the walls. Food ranges from Hawaiian-inspired big kahuna burgers in beef, chicken, veg and pork to tacos and Thai curries – the salty, sweet and spicy massaman beef curry comes particularly recommended. The reverse of the menu is all about fresh fruit and strong booze blending cocktails, each of which comes in a different Instagramfriendly extravagant container. Be it gin and juice in a skull mug, piña colada in a ceramic pineapple or coconut grenade in a, well, you can probably guess. They may take a good while to mix, so first order a shot of Brugal Añejo Rum in a can of Caribbean grapefruit soft drink Ting to sip on. + Has to be the cocktails - Football on TV rather breaks the exoticism spell

The Pot Still 154 Hope Street, City Centre (Map 6: E3, 53) 0141 333 0980, thepotstill.co.uk | £5 (lunch) / £5 (dinner)

With its olde worlde boozer vibe, wallhung beer advertisements and whisky aficionado clientele, the Pot Still is an unusual prospect in that it’s one of only a few traditional city centre pubs left standing. And what a pub. The shelving behind the bar groans with literally hundreds of bottles of malt (there can be up to 720 available at any given time), while friendly staff remain on hand to guide customers through their choice. The focus is firmly on drink, but the Pot Still offers a selection of goodquality meat and vegetarian pies from Scottish butchers Campbell’s served with marrow peas or baked beans to soak up the drink. In the face of the many slick, homogenous bars in the city, this place shines as a charming and totally independent offering. Just don’t expect a convoluted cocktail at busy times. + Rare whiskies at good prices - Temptation to work through the whole whisky list

Rab Ha’s 83 Hutcheson Street, Merchant City (Map 7: B2, 10) 0141 572 0400, rabhas. com | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

While places open and close with alarming speed in the Merchant City, Rab Ha’s is a survivor. This hotel-pubrestaurant has changed hands several times in the past 25+ years – and wavered up and downmarket – but it’s always stuck doggedly to a no-nonsense Scottish theme. Hearty, fair-value meals here include excellent beer-battered fish with chunky chips, a generous steak and ale pie and, naturally, haggis (original or veggie) with neeps and tatties. The kitchen occasionally gets a little more creative – the Christmas menu last year had venison with a redcurrant and port sauce, and shellfish linguini – but generally, it’s pub grub in a part of town where an all-day breakfast (for seven quid) is a rare sighting. The dining room has limited opening times but the bar – which serves food all day from noon (12.30 Sunday) – is a comfortable option, with a decent range of beers. + Excellent fish and chips - Murky basement dining room The List Eating & Drinking Guide 125

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GLASGOW

The Raven 81–85 Renfield Street, City Centre (Map 6: E3, 44) 0141 332 6151, theravenglasgow.co.uk | £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Combining a bar, restaurant and upstairs function-room ‘nest’, this busy city centre pub is deceptively spacious with squishy booths for dining and slim tables for perching drinks. Cocktails are cheap and craft beer is plentiful, with staff enthusiastically reeling off tasting notes for the four rotating guest kegs. If you can’t choose between the many draught, bottles and cans there are both craft beer and cask ale tasting planks. The US-inspired menu encompasses burgers, hot dogs, burritos and deli subs with the smokehouse serving up brisket, ribs and pulled meats on tin trays. You know they take their meat seriously when tables are equipped with sauce racks, and dainty napkins have been replaced by full kitchen rolls. Baby back ribs boast a fiery glaze and the three and a half hours the chicken has spent in the smoker means the tender meat just falls off the bones. + Excellent service from personable staff - Sides quality doesn’t match the meat

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Redmond’s of Dennistoun

304 Duke Street, East End (Map 7: D1, off) 07943 222 650 | £9 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

‘I’ve got a theory about making good food: Don’t use rubbish ingredients’. Connor Miskimmin, head chef and coowner alongside brother Luke is a man of his word. Scottish salmon cured with Glasgow’s Makar gin exemplifies this approach, with fragrant gin and thick-cut salmon slices combining perfectly with chunky Tapa bread. It’s evident again in fantastic steamed buns with Far Eastern

fillings – try panko breadcrumbed chicken with sriracha mayo – and there’s crispy sourdough pizza or weekly meatball specials as well. The tapas-style menu is ideal for encouraging adventure, not least with the Ethiopian chickpea curry whose aromatic heat dances on the tongue. This is a pub with a heart, too – from the small notice quietly announcing they pay the Living Wage to Sunday family folk afternoons and the warm bubbles of conversation rising over rare craft beers in chinking glasses. A pleasure to spend time in. + Food from the heart, pub for the soul - Get there early for the pub quiz

Rioja 1116 Argyle Street, West End See Spanish

Rockus 1038 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 39) 0141 204 5075, rockus-glasgow. co.uk | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

With its black exterior, heavy metal jukebox and graffiti-clad interior, Rockus is a bar that certainly looks the part of the quintessential edgy music venue. The atmosphere is more friendly and relaxed than you may expect – not a ruckus or fracas in sight, Finnieston is very genteel these days. In this distinctive corner of the crowded Argyle Street bar scene, serious music aficionados gather here at night to watch the regular live acts or playbacks of classic concerts on TV screens while supping on Iron Maideninspired Trooper beer – a solid craft beer choice. During the week, local business workers or residents are to the fore, while Rockus is a great Friday night choice if you like your music loud, your drinks strong and your burgers loaded with tasty toppings. Try the Diablo, two handmade burgers topped with bacon, cheese, onions, jalepeños and a portion of BBQ bourbon beef brisket. + Burgers that pack a punch - You’ll either get the interior or you won’t

The Rum Shack 657–659 Pollokshaws Road, Southside (Map 8: C3, 8) 0141 237 4432 | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Considering it’s been trading for just over a year and a half, Rum Shack is impressively efficient at offering its burgeoning clientele the best Caribbean fare in the city. As you would expect, there are scads of great rum (104, in fact) with Red Leg and apple juice a particularly refreshing alternative to any tired old Cuba Libre. Beers are wonderfully sourced, such as Stag from Trinidad, but where this bar really wins through is in its authentic Caribbean menu. Showing real diversity across the islands, starters of Accra salt fish sit alongside popcorn prawns and mains of marinated jerk, salmon, chicken and pork compete with the sublime goat curry. Making damn sure to cover all bases, the Rum Shack also sports a vibrant beer garden and nights in its downstairs venue where even the great Peter Tosh would’ve loved to party. + The goat curry is life affirming - Furniture is a bit mismatched

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The Salisbury

72 Nithsdale Road, Southside (Map 8: C2, 5) 0141 423 0084, thesalisbury.co.uk | £9.95 (set lunch) / £19.50 (dinner)

Bridging two streets The Salisbury is nestled in the heart of the burgeoning Strathbungo drinking scene. The interior is modern with suspended light bulbs and exposed brick, while the double glass frontage allows the compact restaurant to feel spacious. A spirit has to prove its merit to join the neat ranks behind the bar, which also serves its

The Spiritualist: a newcomer with bottles galore and quality food

own draft, Salisbury Brew. The standalone gin menu suggests tonic pairings with their Scottish craft gins, with the slight spice of a Fever-Tree Ginger Ale complementing the botanicals of an Eden Mill Oak. The food menu specialises in fish, locally sourced from the west coast and deftly paired with contrasting flavours. Salt cod is served with subtly sweet toffee mash bon bon and married with tartare velouté. Likewise seared sea bream is skilfully cooked and accompanied by a refreshing pineapple and clam fricassée. Dessert cocktails offer a closing flourish of fresh ingredients. + Quality Scottish ingredients and spirits - Double entrance can result in awkward pavement dithering

Saramago Café Bar CCA, 350 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre See Arts Venues

The 78 10–14 Kelvinhaugh Street, West End (Map 9B: C2, 15) 0141 576 5018, the78cafebar.com | £10 (lunch) / £10 (dinner)

In keeping with the rest of its family of Glasgow outlets that includes Mono, Stereo and the Flying Duck, everything sold at this cosy, laid-back café-bar is free from animal produce. The simple but fresh and hugely flavorsome food here is so good there’s no reason for carnivores to miss their meat, from a starter of coconut and bean chilli nachos or a main of quesadillas with refried beans, vegan cheese and jalapeños (Mexican-inspired dishes are a theme) to the classic 78 veggie burger that’s been many years in the perfecting. A starter and a main most

nights of the week costs little over £10, or better still, three courses plus a sideserving of dub reggae costs £9 at Dub ’n’ Grub on Thursday evenings. There are craft brews aplenty, lots of Williams and Sam Smiths in particular. In winter there’s an open fire, in summer tables row the pavement outside. + Two-course meal and change from £10 - Laid-back staff serve at their own pace

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NEW six°north

566 Dumbarton Road, West End (Map 9A, A3, off) 0141 334 6677, sixdnorth. co.uk | £14.50 (lunch) / £14.50 (dinner)

Blending Flemish traditions with Scottish brewing, six°north’s arrival in town from Aberdeenshire is paradise for beer lovers, with 30 glistening taps showcasing their stable plus fridges filled with unusual offerings from Belgium. Start with a refreshing Hopocrisy blonde or Wanderlust, cloudier with subtle orange notes, or tackle some Lambic beers. All this takes place, fittingly, in a continental bier halle setting replete with benches and tiled walls – relaxed and noisily sociable as trays of schooners sploshing golden delights whoosh around. The eye-catching Flemish cuisine includes small plates so a tour des Belges is ideal. There’s beef stew with deep caramelised overtones so brooding Jacques Brel would be proud, and Toulouse sausage bursting with peppery juice and rustic flavour. Most memorable is the halibut parcel with Liège salad, a wonderful pairing of mild, delicate fish and the salty crunch of bacon cubes. Brussels has arrived in Partick and the Belgians just played their joker. + Eye-popping range of beers - Acoustics can make it hard to hear

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BARS & PUBS

In association with

Sloans 62 Argyll Arcade, City Centre (Map 6: F6, 104) 0141 221 8886, sloansglasgow.com | £13.50 (lunch) / £13.50 (dinner)

Every city needs a place famed for its mac’n’cheese and in Glasgow, it’s Sloans. The pub, set down an atmospheric cobbled lane off Buchanan Street and reputed to be among the oldest in town, is even home to Scotland’s Macaroni Appreciation Club (yes, it’s a thing) as if further proof is needed of its local speciality pasta pedigree. Set back from the main thoroughfare of Buchanan Street, it excels in good, affordable pub grub done right – mac’n’cheese, obviously, with various toppings including parmesan and blush tomatoes, an excellent steak pie, or hog roast bap and apple sauce. What’s more, a cap is doffed to locality in its sourcing, with bread from popular bakery Tapa and there is also a range of entertainment during the week that keeps punters and staff busy, including a pub quiz, musical bingo, a folk night and film nights. + Outdoor seating for al fresco dining - Gets noisy on quiz nights

Slouch 203–205 Bath Street, City Centre (Map 6: C2, 18) 0141 221 5518, slouch-bar.co.uk | £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Given that Slouch has received a clutch of awards, such as ‘best late night operator’, they could be forgiven for getting carried away with themselves. Yet they provide a well-chosen menu alongside a seemingly endless supply of drinks options at a very reasonable price until 3am, seven days a week. Kegged beer sticks with some old favourites, while the bottled options offer the most rarefied treasures from the likes of Beavertown, Goose Island, Weihenstephan and Flying Dog. Live music leads the way with numerous genres and styles, from their Tuesday late-night jazz sessions to their rock ’n’ roll weekenders. Food is Mexico meets USA meets bar favourites – the half rack of ribs with hash browns satisfies like this American classic should – while the good-value market menu shows a shrewd mix of classic and new dishes, but if you’re running late their pared-down 2am menu will sustain until the early morning. + Great beer options - Lack of sauce with mains

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✱ NEW The Spiritualist Bar & Restaurant 62 Miller Street, Merchant City (Map 7: A2, 3) 0141 248 4163, thespiritualistglasgow.com | £12 (lunch) / £26 (dinner)

This sophisticated newcomer features elegant up-lit table tops, muted blue and cream tones and a grand piano. It’s impossible not to be transfixed by a gantry so big that staff require a ladder to navigate it. Unsurprisingly it contains a range of rare rums, gins and tequilas hard to surpass, while the luxurious menu – based on partnerships with quality Scottish suppliers – features venison, veal and rabbit. Dishes are exquisitely presented, skilfully executed and bursting with flavour, none more so than rabbit stuffed with langoustine. It shouldn’t work but does – brilliantly. If a digestif is required, perhaps after a rich osso buco with tender broad beans, splash out on 20-year-old El Dorado rum on the rocks. For those wishing to get up close and personal, there’s an innovative opportunity to book a private dining booth tucked into the corner, offering the chance to watch chefs at work. + Mouthwatering mains - Music could be more adventurous

Stereo 20–28 Renfield Lane, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 79) 0141 222 2254, stereocafebar. com | £7.20 (set lunch) / £12.50 (dinner)

Many bars try to pull off a chilled-out vibe but Stereo’s blend of worn wooden benches and pillars plastered with gig posters is the real deal. The outwardly unassuming venue is frequented by a mix of gig-goers heading to the downstairs venue, vegans and city centre drinkers looking for somewhere with soul. The kitchen serves up soup and sandwich combos, tapas dishes and mains as well as a board of creative daily specials. Attention is paid not just to the flavour but to the texture of dishes – the shamuchan, a Turkish pizza wrap, is stuffed with spiced haggis and crunchy cabbage, while lightly battered cauliflower is a delicious veggie take on Buffalo wings. The food menu is completely free of animal produce and they’re aiming to have the same policy for their drinks, with several of the craft beers served already flying the animalfree flag. + Creative specials board - Tables fill up quickly

The Sparkle Horse

16 Dowanhill Street, West End (Map 9A: B3, 9) 0141 562 3175, thesparklehorse. com | £12.50 (Veg £9.75) (set lunch) / £12.50 (dinner)

NEW The Strathmore

To be with friends in the Sparkle Horse, among the chatter after work on a Friday, is to feel like you’re exactly where you should be. With its dark embossed walls, red couches, and somehow endearingly dated toilets, this place has the kind of atmosphere that chains desperately try to manufacture, but fail. It manages to be kid and dog friendly – without the danger of either tripping you on the way back from the bar – and there’s a range of entertainment, from the ridiculously popular Monday quiz to the slightly chaotic baby disco. Good honest pub food or modern Scottish awaits if you climb the stairs to the restaurant area. Order the halloumi with a honey mustard dressing, or a portion of chips, and watch them vanish as your dining companions all steal one. The burgers are also a favourite, and taste better thanks to an unobtrusive soundtrack of indie and Americana. + £5/£6 menu a bargain (available certain days/times) - Brownie a little underwhelming

Staff seem genuinely happy to work at the Strathmore, which is always a good sign, and the cosy modern interior, complete with wood-burning stove, creates the perfect venue for relaxed dining or leisurely drinking. The restaurant, in the new conservatory/ extension at the back, offers mains such as the Strathy burger – try it with extra chorizo – or the fragrant tiger prawn Goan-style curry. They also do a great pizza, as well as Sunday roast and weekend brunch. School kids, meanwhile, love their skinny fries and hot chocolates on a chilly day. In the pub section, there’s a smallish but carefully selected range of beers and wines, and cocktails such as the dangerously moreish Gin Gin Mule. Although there’s been a pub on this site since 1877, this version is a newcomer, but it doesn’t feel like it, and one hopes it’ll be here for years to come. + Staff create a genuinely sociable atmosphere - Live music can be loud

795 Maryhill Road, West End (Map 9A: H1, off) 0141 946 3131, strathmoreglasgow. co.uk | £14 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

An incredible new local bar specialising in Scottish Real Ales, Craft beers, Whisky and a huge array of home-made pies. OPEN NOW 5 Blackfriars Street Glasgow G1 1PG 0141 552 5012

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GLASGOW

Stravaigin Café Bar 28 Gibson Street, West End See Bistros & Brasseries

NEW Tabac 10 Mitchell Lane, City Centre (Map 6: E5, 109) 0141 572 1448, tabacbar.com | £8.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Many strive for yet few attain the kind of louche bohemian chic of Tabac, with potted plants, film noir neon with futuristic slogans and a vintage cigarette machine for a fish tank. A dark brooding leather interior matches the modernistic idiosyncrasies of an ergonomic menu – in vogue, small plates with a global twist leaning toward the Far East. Sourdough bread with murderously meaty bone marrow butter, pork belly, kimchi and a crispy whole fish with Vietnamese nam prik dressing all marry complex flavours with sumptuous ease and are presented with a flourish. It’s sharp and slick and specials such as pig’s trotters with piccalilli cast a knowing glance to the nose-to-tail movement. At weekends it morphs into an über-hip pre-club spot complete with a back bar selling leche de pantera – Panther Milk – a boozy cultural export from Barcelona and catalyst for milky bacchanalian excess. A party animal with a gourmand side-kick. + Seductively chic - Panther milk on weekends only

The 13th Note Café/Bar 50–60 King Street, Merchant City (Map 7: B3, 39) 0141 553 1638, 13thnote.co.uk | £13 (set lunch) / £13 (dinner)

The sign of a really good vegan restaurant is not just its appeal to those who have chosen a meat-free existence, but the way it wins round those that

THE STAND COMEDY CLUB

haven’t. The 13th Note attracts food fans (carnivores included), musos and those in pursuit of a mid-week pint in comfortable surroundings alike. Thanks to its basement gig space, where bands of the louder variety perform nightly, you can be sure that the restaurant and bar upstairs are always filled with an interesting mix of punters. The Note’s menu excels in the finer things in life – carbs and cheese – including the exotic-sounding Lebanese potato harra, or spicy roast potatoes. Its famous chips, cut from Ayrshire tatties and dusted in rosemary salt were born to be eaten with a halloumi and red pepper kebab – takeaway food reimagined and upgraded. No doner-induced guilt the next morning comes as a welcome bonus. + Imaginative vegetarian food - Curry could do with fuller flavour

Three Judges 141 Dumbarton Road, West End (Map 9A: B3, 14) 0141 337 3055, threejudges. co.uk | No Kids

One of Glasgow’s grand old bars, the Judges is a fixed point in a neighborhood that’s been in a state of flux recently, with Partick becoming increasingly infused with elements of West End cool. This well-appointed saloon with a traditional pub atmosphere has long been an attraction, serving up to nine cask ales of every shade and colour, with a menu of current guest brews noted on a chalkboard and plenty of Campaign for Real Ale awards on display. Visit to hang out with students, locals and business folk, enjoy a conversation in a musicfree environment and discover your next favourite bespoke pint from a selection including favourites from Willams Bros. and Inveralmond Brewery. On Sundays,

333 WOODLANDS ROAD GLASGOW | 0141 212 3389

W W W. T H E S TA N D . C O . U K

read the papers and relax here while enjoying live jazz. + Classic West End bar - Very limited food options

The Tiki Bar 214 Bath Street, City Centre (Map 6: C2, 15) 0141 332 1341, tikibarglasgow.com | £8 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Downstairs from sister restaurant the Kitsch Inn, the Tiki Bar offers ambitious professional cocktail knowhow in a flamboyant setting, with a real party vibe. And it could all be in a Pacific Rim bar thanks to an eclectic decorative mix of hula girls, Easter Island statues and exotic videos, with ceramic snakes staring at you from the locally hand-thrown cocktail pot by Garnet McCulloch at Fireworks Studio. The bar staff have a scientific approach to their cocktails – from the classic Rum Manhattan to the welljudged Mai Tai mixing is judicious and flavours distinctive yet perfectly blended. Recently installed sous vide equipment ensures that syrups and fruit bases are made in-house and ultra tangy. In the summer there is an outside space and the atmosphere is always high octane as one cocktail leads to another. From Missionary’s Downfall to Auch Aye the Bru, the very names themselves speak of this bar’s originality and ingenuity. + A real kick starter for a celebration evening - Stairs and cocktails aren’t always the best mixers

NEW The Trading House

SCOTLAND’S FAVOURITE COMEDY CLUB

LIVE COMEDY 7 NIGHTS A WEEK

STANDGLASGOW STANDGLASGOW

401 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre (Map 6: A2, 6) 0141 332 4449 | No Kids

Among the ever-changing liveries lining Sauchiehall Street, there are a couple of institutions that have continued to draw in crowds whatever trends are flashing through nearby venues – Variety is one of them. Independently owned by former members of AC Acoustics, the bar retains an unashamedly 1990s feel, and is all the better for it. It’s dark, broody, well-worn, packed to the rafters any time there’s a gig at the nearby ABC, and the music is always first-rate. Draught beer mixes standard and local craft brews while there’s been attempts recently to bulk up the bottle offer and a malt of the month is a snip at £2.80. By recognising what it does best and embracing everything that has been thrown at it over the last 20 years, Variety is settling into middle age with more self-respect than the everreforming Britpop bands. + Soaking up the weekend atmosphere - Having to leave if you’re hungry

The Vic Cafe Bar Glasgow School of Art Students’ Association, 20 Scott Street, City Centre See Arts Venues

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There’s something wonderfully dramatic about stepping into the Trading House. The bar mixes up a steampunk-colonialexplorer aesthetic that makes you feel like you’ve walked into a Mumford & Sons video. Both the bar and separate dining area are theatrical, vibrant and great fun, from the live music all week and the beer kegs kept in a glass case behind the bar to the extensive list of gins and cocktails. The menu mixes up small and big plates with culinary influence from every continent – the hanging kebabs may feel a bit like a holiday experience, but huge prawns and veg dripping in sauce really hit the spot. A chicken and chorizo pie may be overpowered by the latter, but this is comfort food all over. A deli board to share offers up 20 items to choose from – perfect for snacking on as you browse a beer menu designed as a travel journal. + Great atmosphere - Live music daily won’t be for everyone

Residing on the east edge of town, surrounded by Wellpark Brewery and Glasgow’s Necropolis, Drygate is the epitome of a modern craft brew pub. It is hipster chic with a minimalist interior throughout the brewhouse, beerhall above and spacious terrace. A joint venture between Tennent’s and Williams Bros., Drygate is heaven for beer aficionados, with 24 draught lines offering up in-house favourites such as Gladeye IPA along with a host of guest ales, and a dizzying bottle array. It’s a good spot for dining too, with the Vintage team creating seasonal menus making the most of local sourcing, with a good helping of creativity. Whether it’s a cumin-rich falafel burger that proves pub grub doesn’t have to be predictable, or a light cod fillet in a squid-infused ragù, it’s clear a lot of love has gone into each dish. And at lunchtime, quirky ‘flat pack sandwiches’ are self-assembled, stretching the micro metaphor even further. + Arguably the city’s best beer range - It’s a bit out the way . . . but not too far

5 and 9 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: B3, 12) 0141 334 7277, thetwofigs.co.uk | £5 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

tastiest live comedy

Variety Bar

24 St Vincent Place, City Centre (Map 6: F4, 119) 0141 223 7010, thetradinghouse. uk.com/location/glasgow | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

The Two Figs

Get your fill of the

roast could be just the ticket for a lazy weekend afternoon. Those with pooches will be pleased to note that canines are welcomed with open arms for wellrubbed bellies. + Chic cocktails - Other aspects can feel a bit listless

Away from the bright lights and bustle of Byres Road, the Two Figs is a cosy and inviting retreat. Holding court is a vintage brick hearth entwined with wrought metal foliage that, when lit, suggests pulling up a chair and perusing the cocktail menu. There’s an extensive range including an inventive house special, Figgy Bramble, and a classic Old Fashioned. A separate laid-back dining area comprising slightly worn booths continues the arboreal theme with illustrated fig leaves branching out across the wall. While not bursting with inspiration, a satisfying Goan curry and chunky salmon fish cakes well suit the excellent range of Scottish beers available, from WEST Brewery to Innis & Gunn. Of the other offerings, fish and chips or the regular Sunday

The Vintage at Drygate

85 Drygate, East End (Map 7: D1, off) 0141 212 8810, drygate.com/the-vintage | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

NEW Virginia Bar & Rotisserie Unit 4, Virginia Court, Merchant City (Map 7: A2, 5) 0141 553 2326, virginiabar. co.uk | £16 (dinner)

Following on from the success of Gin 71 in the city centre, this latest outing from the Cup stable is somewhere between speakeasy and a late-night bar. Slatted blinds and muted wooden tones create a hushed and secretive atmosphere punctuated by the quiet murmur of table-talk around the room. Although principally a home for lovers of the juniper berry and its botanical companions, the cocktail menu does offer whisky and vodka based creations to broaden the spectrum. Gin and tonics arrive in curvaceous glasses on delicate stems, containing top-quality gins from Arbikie and Daffy’s, leading lights in the recent renaissance of Scottish gin-

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In association with

GLASGOW

Glasgow brewery, there are nine of their own beers and lagers on tap: from Hefeweizen, a cloudy wheat beer – which sits in tall, cool glasses lined up on many tables – to their Munich-style lager, St Mungos. Opened last year after a spell as a pop-up in the space left by the long-standing Halt Bar, the renovations now relegate the old place to distant memory. Bare stone pillars frame large windows that span two walls, and familiar industrial lampshades hang in rows above the lively chatter. Gingerbread hearts at the bar remind patrons of WEST’s German heritage and this continues if you step next door to the restaurant area. Here, sausages are well represented on the menu, but there’s also a few surprises – the hot smoked salmon is so good you’ll want to lick the plate, and Goan fish curry is aromatic and perfectly cooked. Just another reason to go West. + Hefeweizen ice-cream – shouldn’t work but does - Restaurant space perhaps lacks a sense of place

NEW The Winged Ox Saint Luke’s, 17 Bain Street, East End (Map 7: D5, off) 0141 552 8378, stlukesglasgow.com/saint-lukes/thewinged-ox-bar-kitchen | £14.50 (lunch) / £14.50 (dinner)

WEST on the Corner: a second venture from the brewery, giving West Enders a taste of their German beer and food

making. A curiously advised pairing with rotisserie chicken is not a complete success, making repeat visits here more likely to be to work through those wonderful gins than the menu. + Outstanding G&T - Food lets the side down

Vroni’s Wine & Champagne Bar 47 West Nile Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 74) 0141 221 4677, vronis.co.uk| No under 21s | £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

For over two decades, Vroni’s has been catering for those who appreciate the finer things in life. Flying in the face of modern drinking culture,

TIPLIST FOR STEAKS

the interior manages to combine the classic mix of plush leather seating, dark wood furniture and dimmed lighting to wonderful effect. Amid this traditional backdrop is the assurance of privacy and discretion – a place where young professionals can enjoy the spoils that their busy life allows. Great wines and bonafide champagnes are in abundance, and staff are only too willing to help you select the perfect glass to go along with the compact food offerings – light bites, popular mains and sharing plates, including a delicious cured meat platter. Vroni’s is a great before or after-dinner place to enjoy time with loved ones or perhaps thrash out the details of that new business deal over a bottle of great Romanian pinot noir. + Very traditional vibe - Expect to be asked what you do for a living. A lot

The Waverley Tea Room • The Butchershop Bar & Grill Top quality Scottish meats meet stylish hangout with views across Kelvingrove Park. 173 • CAU Glasgow Argentinian steakhouse which serves prime cuts of grass-fed AberdeenAngus beef. 162 • Cottier’s Bar & Restaurant Beautiful converted church, with a strong emphasis on aged and smoked meats. 131 • The Honours Martin Wishart’s high-end brasserie, with lavish steaks beﬁtting the classy surroundings. 132 • Hutchesons Glitzy, luxurious dining in an A-listed landmark, featuring café, brasserie and glamorous cocktail bar. 132 • Porter & Rye Top quality, highly aged meats set the tone for a stylish bistro experience in the heart of Finnieston. 175

18 Moss Side Road, Southside (Map 8: A4, 21) 0141 616 6818, socialanimal. co.uk | £11 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

With an exposed stone wall on one side and a vast wine gantry on the other, this lofty Shawlands bar keeps things cosy with plenty of sofa booths and armchairs. If you visit at the weekend you can recline with brunch or a Sunday roast, while the regular menu includes burgers courtesy of Ketchup and pub grub classics. There’s comfort to be found in peppery haggis bonbons with a punchy whisky sauce or a steak and ale pie that’s made with good quality beef and a rich gravy. The bar stocks a range of draught beer including Drygate, several varieties of champagne for celebratory occasions and a popular selection of classic cocktails with a twist, including a boozy version of iced tea shared from a pot. The combination of both a beer garden and an outdoor terrace make it a sought-after spot when the Glasgow sun shines. + Al fresco dining options should the sun decide to sign - Menu plays it a bit safe

Free-from Favourites? Check out our Tiplists on pages 107–109 Find Tiplists on other topics through the guide and online WEST Brewery Building 4 Templeton Building, Glasgow Green, East End (Map 7: D5, off) 0141 550 0135, westbeer.com | £13 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Set in a 180-year-old building that wouldn’t look out of place on a vintage postcard of Bavaria, WEST has been trailblazing German food and drink in Glasgow for over a decade. Its beer hall’s dark wood-panelled walls, seats and floors also feel authentically continental, but the German-style lager and dark beers, which are brewed onsite, have been given a sense of place with Glasgow-inspired names (King Tuts and St. Mungo feature). The menu is extensive but the currywurst, with sausages scored diagonally to allow curry sauce to permeate all the way through, and excellent-value serving platters with dinky pots of mackerel paste, rye bread and gherkins, are two of the best options. A popular haunt for those looking to refuel after a walk on the neighbouring Glasgow Green, it’s a thought to book in advance for a guaranteed seat, as, by early afternoon on a Saturday or Sunday, WEST is often mobbed. + Post-meal brewery tour - Bar is extremely deep for drink passing

NEW WEST on the Corner 160 Woodlands Road, West End (Map 9A: G4, 86) 0141 332 0540, westbeer. com | £18 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

As you’d expect from this independent

This arts venue, bar and restaurant near Glasgow’s Gallowgate was formerly a dilapidated church until renovated in 2015. Combine the Deep South menu with a show to really appreciate what makes St Luke’s unique. The venue itself is the old church hall, whose imposing pipe organ and saintly stained-glass windows combine to create a reverential grandeur. The Winged Ox bar, named after St Luke’s animal companion, is an open space framed by industrial metal, where you can feast on Cajun mussels, smoky gumbo as authentic as a night out on the Bayou, plus ribs and wings. Meat loaf, often for the foolhardy, is moist and homely with a generous slosh of gravy to bring it together. Partnership with WEST Brewery has produced a bespoke beer, the perfect way to wash away those spices – and any sins you committed on the way. Give us this day our daily burger and deliver us a pilsener. + Tasty nibbles and ents in one spot - Four TVs is a bit unholy

Yesbar 14 Drury Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 93) 0141 204 0060, yesbar.scot | £6 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Yesbar, which used to be Vespar until owners Suz and Jim showed their colours in the run up to the indyref, offers SNP members a ten per cent discount on orders, but it’s a fine place to enjoy a drink irrespective of political persuasion. Like its predecessor, Yesbar features Frizzenti prosecco on tap and an Italian-style menu, where thin stone-baked pizzas with dough made from scratch are impressive – even more so when you considered they can be cooked by the metre. What’s more, with a little notice the kitchen can cook gluten-free pizza and pasta options as well, including macaroni cheese and spaghetti meatballs. House lager and wine comes with custom ‘yes’ branding, which feels characterful or gimmicky, depending on your stance. Either way, prices are cheap and there’s a downstairs venue with comedy on the weekends to unite customers with the universal language of laughter. + Prosecco on tap - Hard to hear upstairs when busy The List Eating & Drinking Guide 129

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GLASGOW

BISTROS & BRASSERIES Glasgow’s bistro scene is bustling. From beloved Glaswegian institutions which have proudly championed the finest of Scottish produce since the 1980s, to newcomers who present innovative menus that twist traditional bistro style into something more vibrant and modern, there are a wealth of exceptional dining experiences just waiting to be discovered. From the Victorian buildings in the Merchant City that have been resurrected into chic restaurants, to the creative, edgy bistros of the ever-trendy West End or the neighbourhood dining spots of the East End and Southside, the Dear Green Place proudly hosts some of Scotland’s best restaurants. Reviewers: Rowan Anderson, Kirsty Bush, Rory McGinley

The Academy Restaurant The Experience, Lothian Street, Hillington Park, Southside See Arts Venues

Alston Bar & Beef Central Station, 79 Gordon Street, City Centre See Steakhouses & Burgers

The Anchor Line 12–16 St Vincent Street, City Centre (Map 6: F4, 120) 0141 248 1434, theanchorline.co.uk | £22 (lunch) / £22 (dinner)

The nautical theme runs deep into the Edwardian building restored to house the Anchor Line – the Di Maggio group’s upmarket flagship that pays homage to the shipping company whose former offices the restaurant occupies. There’s printed memorabilia of transatlantic voyages, sunken leather booths for the first-class diners, plus a menu that takes influence from, and bridges, both geographical points. The maritime peak is scaled by oysters Rockefeller, with this version simply topped with spinach and garlic butter, relying solely on the quality of its main ingredient (a more adventurous variation features porter black ale). Scallops – another jewel of the sea – rest on corn purée – a tricky but wellbalanced combination that strikes the right notes of rich, sweet and buttery. From sea to land sees the appearance of the increasingly popular Josper grill – a reliable ally for a variety of prime cuts of Scottish beef. Deriving its signature cocktails from the pre and post-prohibition era – there are some mocktails for the bit in between – the art deco bar parallels the restaurant with a menu that is of Scots-American descent. + The Gatsby-esque feel of the central feature bar - £20 and upwards for lobster mac and cheese

Art Lover’s Café House for an Art Lover, Bellahouston Park, 10 Dumbreck Road, Southside See Arts Venues

Baby Grand 3–7 Elmbank Gardens, City Centre (Map 6: A2, 8) 0141 248 4942, babygrandglasgow.com | £21 (dinner)

Baby Grand is another example of a Glasgow institution, having been open since 1984. This bistro brings a certain elegance to Charing Cross, with low lighting and heavy wooden furniture. It is, however, most famous for its baby grand piano, which is skilfully played in the evenings from Wednesdays to Sundays. The menu reflects this elegance, boasting luxe ingredients such as truffle and lobster. Starters include coquilles Saint Jacques – scallops and mushroom duxelle hidden beneath a delicate béchamel and artfully piped mashed potato, which looks impressive when served on the scallop shell. Truffle gnocchi is full of earthy mushroom flavours, the spinach glistening with the smooth pine nut beurre noisette. For mains, a bowl of moules marinière looks inviting, mussels steaming in the creamy sauce, while the pork and chorizo burger is chargrilled and bursting with smoky paprika flavours – a side of chunky hand-cut chips is a welcome addition to both mains. Staff are efficient and friendly, and with a bargain market menu, experiencing a touch of class becomes very affordable at Baby Grand. + Live piano brings an elegance to dinner - Can be hard to hear piano over kitchen/ bar noise

in quality. There are some recognisable bistro traits – a daily printed menu is always a heart-warmer – with the white linen cast aside for more informality. Sea bass and mackerel are treated with a refined hand, the former lightly cured and served ceviche with a sharp caper vinaigrette, while a celebration of Jerusalem artichokes – roasted and crisped – paired with a smoked aubergine purée and Highland crowdie, works on composite levels of texture and flavour, making for an elegant appetiser. Mains strike a similar tone – squid ink gnocchi is a colourful partner for salmon and salt-baked beetroot, while roast chicken breast is full of earthy joy with a fricassée of wild mushrooms, squash and chestnuts, all bound nicely by a savoury barley milk. With the Chip now celebrating its 45th year, any thoughts of tiredness or complacency are misplaced. This Glasgow institution adeptly balances the comfort of the national cuisine (homemade stovies are a must) with a progressive touch, keeping its brasserie at the top end of bistro dining. + Plaudits for a well-balanced beetroot chocolate mousse - Side of vegetables made for slim pickings

from the Summer Isles. Starters feature a trio of pâtés, choices consisting of a tangy goat’s cheese and pumpkin flavour as well as the ubiquitous chicken liver that comes smooth and rich. For mains, a sizzling, golden chicken Kiev oozes garlic butter that melts lustrously into the wilted spinach accompaniment. Beyond Scotland, there are also excellent pasta dishes to choose from, the Italian sausage pasta with a rich tomato ragù is a hearty plateful and especially nice when paired with wine from the very extensive wine list. With staff who make guests – even those who have never visited before – feel like old friends, Café Gandolfi ’s warm Scottish hospitality and attention to detail is the foundation of their longevity and success. + Commitment to the best Scottish produce - Tables quite close together

Brel

Whether breakfast, lunch, coffee or cake, Cafezique is the go-to destination in Hyndland for artisan dishes, quality produce and cracking baked goods. A steady stream of customers come and go from breakfast time, which is served until 5pm for those who enjoy a long lie-in, as varieties of French toast, eggs every way possible and homemade granola turn into lunch salads, sandwiches, burgers and quiche along with nibbles and bistro favourites such as macaroni cheese and mussels – plump, from Shetland and fresh as you could wish, a delicate garlic and cream sauce is light enough to let one fully appreciate the sea freshness of the shellfish. Mini cheese fondue is one guilty pleasure not to be missed: oozing with comte, parmesan and manchego, it is a gloopy stringy delight, served with their own homemade bread from the deli next door. The fruit in the crumble will change from day to day but it is the topping that stands out, packed with oats, dark brown sugar and maple toasted nuts, simple but delicious, better than granny’s. + Ever-changing menu - Can be draughty at window seats

39–43 Ashton Lane, West End See Bars & Pubs

Brutti Ma Buoni Bell & Felix 248 Kilmarnock Road, Southside See Cafés

Brunswick Hotel, 106 Brunswick Street, Merchant City See Bars & Pubs

✱

The Bungo Bar & Kitchen

NEW Black Dove

67 Kilmarnock Road, Southside (Map 8: A5, 22) 0141 231 1021, blackdovedining. com | £9.95 (set lunch) / £26 (dinner)

17–21 Nithsdale Road, Southside (Map 8: C2, 6) 0141 423 0023, thebungo.co.uk | £19 (lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Despite an unassuming exterior, Black Dove’s relaxed, informal vibe and a very clever menu has resulted in welldeserved success since this stylish Southside spot opened in 2015. Neutral décor and exposed brickwork give a relaxed, laid-back vibe, which extends to the extraordinary food that chef Stephen Crawford produces. Using simple, quality ingredients to create an impressive yet unpretentious menu, the dining style here entails ordering a variety of small dishes, which arrive at the table in staggered fashion, again adding to the easy-going ambience. Sharing four of five little dishes per couple allows the sampling of a significant portion of the extensive menu – sea bass served with glistening silver skin adorned with crisp pancetta and peas is a triumph, while a fillet of beef served with an onion purée and wild mushrooms is earthy and exquisitely tender. Old favourites are funked up – the truffle macaroni is heady and intoxicating, while scallops are paired with a delicate apple purée that brings an interesting new dimension to a traditional bistro staple. An extensive wine list completes the enticement at this smart little venue. + Top-class neighbourhood dining - Booking at the weekend is a must

A relative of the West End’s Left Bank and Two Figs, the Bungo fosters the distinctive identity of a neighbourhood bistro in its Southside locale with a menu that is competitively priced, innovative and versatile enough to suit a threecourse meal or a few leisurely drinks. Brunch runs from 10.30am and ranges from the traditional, including varietals of eggs mornay, to the more adventurous offering of shakshuka, which boasts the delights of a baked egg, halloumi and batata harra in a spiced tomato-based stew. Small dishes and mains from attest to a kitchen that isn’t necessarily bound by the restraints of theme or food-groups. A starter of braised squid and chorizo is all Catalan goodness in a light broth (even if the advertised cannellini beans may not make an appearance), while pineapple and wasabi-glazed duck breast, served with miso noodles and broccoli, makes for a sweet and punchy stir-fry. Desserts are perhaps a little less imaginative than other dishes – think sorbets and cheesecake – yet an alluring after-dinner drinks list makes up for it. + Vegetarians and vegans well catered for - Toffee apple pie very mediocre

The Butchershop Bar & Grill 1055 Sauchiehall Street, West End See Steakhouses & Burgers

La Bonne Auberge 161 West Nile Street, City Centre See French

The Bothy 11 Ruthven Lane, West End See Scottish

The Brasserie at the Chip

Atlantic Bar & Brasserie

12 Ashton Lane, West End (Map 9A: C2, 34) 0141 334 5007, ubiquitouschip.co.uk | £16 (lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Lower Ground, 12–16 St Vincent Place, City Centre See French

The Brasserie at the Chip hovers above the more formal courtyard below yet the food doesn’t signify any step down

Café Gandolfi 64 Albion Street, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 25) 0141 552 6813, cafegandolfi.com | £25 (lunch) / £25 (dinner)

The beautiful, heavy oak furniture and eye-catching stained glass that fill Café Gandolfi reflect the timeless familiarity of this Glaswegian diner, which has tirelessly helped put Scottish produce in the minds and bellies of anyone who has passed through its doors that opened in 1979. The menu is laden with Scottish provender, including black pudding from Stornoway and peat-smoked salmon

Café Source Too Hillhead Sports Club, 32 Hughenden Road, West End See Scottish

Cafezique 66 Hyndland Street, West End (Map 9A: B2, 3) 0141 339 7180, delizique.com | £16 (lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Le Chalet Beaumartin 518 Great Western Road, West End See French

Chinaski’s 239 North Street, West End See Bars & Pubs

Citation 40 Wilson Street, Merchant City (Map 7: B2, 11) 0141 559 6799, citation-glasgow. com | £12.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

If the building’s history is firmly judicial, having once housed Glasgow’s Sheriff Court, then Citation’s interior, particularly the first-floor dining room, pertains to more opulent decree. The restaurant blends Baroque-esque furniture – salon chairs with cream wooden frames and aureate upholstery – with more contemporary features, such as glimpses of exposed brickwork and a marbled bar. Steady national grounding is found through a carpaccio of Highland venison, sensibly paired with a sharp celeriac remoulade to balance the meat’s richness. Less bold, though equally impressive, are king scallops – deserving of their regal appellation – lightened by an apple and fennel salad. Classical notes are struck throughout mains: a croustade of confit lamb is gloriously rich and dark,

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nearly rubbing shoulders with luxe venues Malmaison and the Blythswood Hotel. The restaurant will be a similar Grill set-up to their established hotels in Edinburgh and Eurocentral – with chef Tony Tapia coming from the brooding edifice visible from the M8 to head up the Glasgow kitchen. Expect a stylish setting for enjoying various cuts of topquality Scottish beef and other renowned national produce, such as venison loin or perhaps Isle of Gigha halibut. The bar promises a range of classic cocktails, global beers and fine wines and malts. [Not open for a full review at time of going to press – check list.co.uk/food for updates.]

Delizique 70–72 Hyndland Street, West End See Cafés

The Drake 1 Lynedoch Street, West End See Bars & Pubs

Eat Café 69 Kilmarnock Road, Southside (Map 8: A5, 23) 0141 649 6705, eat-deli.co.uk | £18 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Ox and Finch (page 133): sociable small plates in food-centric Finnieston

with black pudding and a thyme jus. Loin of cod, wrapped in pancetta, has a punchy dressing of hazelnuts, parsley and anchovies. Chocolate fondant, forever the barometer of precise confectionary (and downfall of many a Masterchef contestant), arrives with a compliant centre of warm and ready-to-run chocolate – an accurate testing ground for, and exhibition of, the kitchen’s proficiency with classic dishes. + Wine list – seven reds dip under £20 - Cheeseboard rather sad looking

The Corinthian Club 191 Ingram Street, City Centre (Map 7: B2, 6) 0141 552 1101, thecorinthianclub. co.uk | £13.50 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

The Corinthian Club is an impressive example of how beautiful Victorian-era buildings in the Merchant City have been thoughtfully restored to their former glory – in this case evolving to become a chic restaurant, bar, casino and nightclub. The breathtaking domed ceiling, complete with ornate detail, gives an opulent feeling to the brasserie, where the menu is an eclectic mix of Scottish staples and more exotic cuisines – with dishes coming universally well presented by polite, friendly waiting staff. Halloumi to start is full of tasty umami flavours thanks to the chargrilling, while the haggis fritters are sizzling and nicely spicy beside the accompanying creamy mustard sauce. For the main event sea bream fillet is well handled, the accompanying ragù is robust, with pulses and sweet cherry tomatoes complementing the fish nicely. Monkfish tail is meaty and full of flavour, and, in keeping with the opulence of the venue, includes potatoes flavoured with truffle. Complete with a fabulous Espresso Martini from the flashy cocktail menu, dining here is a very chic affair. + The mesmerising architecture - Proximity to bar can mean it’s loud

Côte Brasserie 41–43 West Nile Street, City Centre See French

Cottier’s Bar and Restaurant 93–95 Hyndland Street, West End (Map 9A: B2, 1) 0141 357 5825, cottiers.com | £21 (lunch) / £21 (dinner)

A beautifully converted church is the setting for this popular bar, theatre and restaurant. Hugely high ceilings, aweinspiring windows and rich dark wood create a unique atmosphere whether enjoying a pint, a play or a proper feed. Reached by a narrow winding staircase, the restaurant feels like a special place, where the warmth from the open fire can be felt in winter or the sunlight beaming through in summer. With the recent installation of two very large refrigerators to allow meat to be hung and aged in house, along with a smoker imported from Germany to add even more flavour to the beasts, it’s little wonder that the standout dish on their current menu is a dry-aged ribeye – marbled and thick, boasting a ruby centre and lots of outside charring. Bitter leaves of chicory add another dimension when accompanied with melting balsamic butter. Elsewhere, sriracha prawns are fresh and spicy bathed in the famous chilli sauce originating from Thailand. Spare a space for pudding and try their lemon posset – sharp yet creamy served with a cracking local raspberry ice-cream. + A special location with great steak - May be difficult to find if you’re not local

NEW Dakota Deluxe Bar & Grill 179 West Regent Street, City Centre (Map 6: B3, 58), glasgow.dakotahotels. co.uk

Opening in April 2016, the sleek black monolithic look of the Dakota hotel brand is gracing Glasgow’s upmarket area just down from Blythswood Square,

This Southside venue has successfully blended coffee culture with cosy neighbourhood dining, thanks to the friendly staff and menus that cover breakfast through to evening meals. Large windows with views on to bustling Kilmarnock Road give an airy feel and allow that most enjoyable of pastimes, people-watching – which can only be enhanced with a treat from the counter, which is laden with tempting homebaking. If something more filling than tea and cake is required, there is plenty of choice on the main menu, which focuses on using organic, free-range produce. A hearty smoked fish chowder is creamy and full of potato and delicate smoked fish, while the king prawns are firm, flavoursome and smothered in a delicate coconut cream. For mains, an enormous portion of haddock risotto, accompanied by a soft poached egg and black pudding is extra filling, while the chicken and squash tagine from the daily specials is gently spiced, colourful and adorned with glistening pomegranate seeds. With such extensive menus, Eat Café has something for every hungry moment. + Commitment to using organic, freerange produce - Overwhelmingly large portion of risotto

✱ HITLIST

BISTROS & BRASSERIES ✱ Black Dove Lively bistro in the heart of Shawlands serving impressive food of exceptional quality, joined by an extensive wine list. ✱ The Honours A high-end brasserie – courtesy of chef and restaurateur Martin Wishart – with food and service befitting the classy surroundings. ✱ Hutchesons Bar & Brasserie Glitzy, luxurious dining in an A-listed Merchant City landmark, featuring café, brasserie and glamorous cocktail bar. ✱ 111 by Nico High-end dining experience in the suburbs – exquisite presentation, inspired food parings and incredible value for money. ✱ Ox and Finch Creative, confident cooking at this informal Finnieston diner, with small sharing plates that have earned the place a Michelin Bib Gourmand. ✱ Riverhill Restaurant & Bar A small city centre restaurant serving innovative, often exciting global dishes in an informal atmosphere. ✱ Stravaigin Café Bar Full of boho charm, Stravaigin Café Bar embodies the best of bistro dining – bold flavours, creative dishes and competitive pricing on a changing menu.

Fanny Trollope’s 1066 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 36) 0141 564 6464, fannytrollopes. co.uk | Monday | £23 (dinner)

A time-served member of the Finnieston dining scene, established long before the influx of their fashionista neighbours, Fanny Trollope’s impresses with their relaxed flair and interesting bistro-style dining. A small narrow space combines a handful of booths with simple wooden tables leaving little wiggle room for lively waiting staff weaving in and out, pouring wine, chatting as they go. Expect Scottish offerings with the occasional global twist – local mussels combine with light, fragrant curry broth while crisp homemade roti bread mops up the Asian-flavoured juices,with flavours that are punchy and exciting. Belly of lamb, an underused yet delicious cut, flakes with ease thanks to slow braising – Moroccan aromatics fill the crisp lamb parcel that accompanies, sweet potato and creamy celeriac gratin mix with the rich lamb juices creating a full-on flavour sensation. Dark chocolate crémeux finishes any meal with style – silky smooth with crunch from salted caramel popcorn, blood

orange gel cuts the density with sharp citrus notes. With their proximity to the Hydro and a popular pre-theatre option, booking on concert nights is essential. + Hearty, satisfying food - A little too bright

Firebird 1321 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: C1, 10) 0141 334 0594, firebirdglasgow. com | £7.85 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

There is something about Firebird that feels comforting, akin to coming home – from the distinct aroma emanating from their wood-burning pizza oven, bright large fish tank, heat from the open fire and television over the bar to the fact children and dogs are welcomed with open arms, it is a unique place to enjoy a variety of dining experiences. Pick and mix antipasti boards or pasta dishes can be enjoyed while sipping reasonably priced wine, and small plates plus one or two meat and fish offerings round off the menu. Handmade pizzas are popular, well known among the loyal clientele and always a good bet. Made using their 15-year-old starter sourdough, the outcome is crisp, charred and thin as wafer topped with everything The List Eating & Drinking Guide 131

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from meatballs and spicy nduja sausage to blue cheese pear and walnuts – all available to take away. Good value lunch deals are popular, with crowd-pleasing combinations such as sandwiches with soup or thick hand-cut chips plus half pizzas with salad. A good selection of beers and cocktails ensure bar stools are rarely empty. + A genuinely welcoming place to relax - Bread could be fresher

Gandolfi Fish 84 Albion Street, Merchant City See Fish

The Gannet 1155 Argyle Street, West End See Scottish

The Grill on the Corner 21–25 Bothwell Street, City Centre See Steakhouses & Burgers

The Grumpy Goat 90 Old Dumbarton Road, West End See Bars & Pubs

Guy’s Restaurant & Bar 24 Candleriggs, Merchant City, Merchant City (Map 7: C3, 31) 0141 552 1114, guysrestaurant.co.uk | £9.95 (set lunch) / £30 (dinner)

One of the old guards of the Glasgow restaurant scene, Guy Cowan’s eponymous restaurant has been dishing out an eclectic and enticing spread of global food to Glaswegians for a decade. Nestled inconspicuously on Candleriggs, Guy’s small frontage extends back past the bar into a dining room where decor demonstrates a personal touch and the tables’ proximity means dining here can be a sociable affair – even if you happen to be eating alone. The menu goes wandering, meandering across countries and continents. There’s Italian risottos and pasta dishes made with homemade spaghetti coming with a choice of sauces; Far Eastern dishes of hand-rolled sushi, sashimi and bang bang chicken; French-inspired offerings including foie gras and saddle of French rabbit; and, of course, plenty of Scottish favourites. From macaroni cheese and minced tatties to Highland venison fillet and Aberdeen

TIPLIST FOR COCKTAILS • Blue Dog New York-style piano bar with skilled mixologists serving extensive cocktails made from premium spirits. 118 • Booly Mardy’s West End speakeasy with an unrivalled offering of cocktails and wine, plus innovative edibles. 118 • Chequers Cocktail House & Grill West End newcomer delivers cutting-edge cocktails and a great-value menu. 120 • Kelvingrove Café Behind this vintage exterior in Finnieston is a stylish spot with some of the city’s best cocktails. 122 • The Rum Shack A little bit of the Caribbean in the Southside, the Rum Shack dishes up plenty of rum concoctions. 126 • The Tiki Bar Inventive cocktails with strong fruity ﬂavours served by nationally renowned mixologists. 128

Riverhill Restaurant & Bar: innovative and exciting food taking inspiration from a global stage

Angus cuts, anyone after a taste of Scotland won’t be disappointed – nor will anyone else for that matter given the breadth of the offering. [Not recently visited.]

✱

The Honours

Malmaison, 278 West George Street, City Centre (Map 6: B3, 59) 0141 572 1001, thehonours.co.uk | £18.50 (set lunch) / £26 (dinner)

Celebrated Scottish chef Martin Wishart set up this west coast outfit of The Honours in 2014 at the Malmaison Hotel – a former Greek Orthodox Church. It’s all very high spec – plush circular banquettes dominate the centre space bathed in tones of burgundy and cream, while gold pillars and crystal chandeliers light the room. The team is impressive, too: head chef Andrew Greenan and his wife Zoe run the kitchen with executive chef Paul Tamburrini, all previously of One Devonshire Gardens, while front of house is Stephane Damezin who worked with Ramsay at Glasgow’s last Michelin Star establishment, Amaryllis. Expect classic compositions using local produce with high-precision cooking. Hand-rolled tagliatelle sees wafer thin pasta give way to velvety rich and slightly sweet truffle purée while golden fried sea scallops sit plump and proud on top – the flavours are immense and the pairing simply beautiful. If celebrating, try the Chateaubriand – the classic steak for two, made from a centre cut fillet, requires little dressing up. Cooked to blush over charcoal, silver served with duck fat chips, crisp fried onions rings and silky béarnaise sauce, it’s nothing short of stunning. + Outstanding food in opulent surroundings - Lights could come down a notch

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Hutchesons Bar & Brasserie 158 Ingram Street, Merchant City (Map 7: B2, 8) 0141 552 4050, hutchesonsglasgow.com | £15.95 (set lunch) / £31 (dinner)

With soft jazz music and beautifully ornate décor, dining at Hutchesons feels like being in a scene from The Great Gatsby. But it’s not all show in this striking Merchant City spot, housed in a 200-year-old, A-listed former hospital. The lavish surroundings are matched by exceptionally slick service, chic cocktails and a sophisticated

menu showcasing the best of Scottish produce. Starters include smoked salmon – served simply with capers and lemon – smoky, delicate and perfect with a loaf of crisp, still warm bread, while the pleasing saltiness of the smoked ham hough is balanced with creaminess from a gently poached egg and freshly made hollandaise sauce. An extensive selection of Scottish steaks include a generously cut fillet, served with a pungent pepper sauce – it’s heavenly, and captures the fine-dining experience the restaurant aims for. Panseared chicken supreme is succulent and earthy in its mushroom and red wine jus. Finally, a crème brûlée – the crisp, caramelised sugar snapping to reveal a luxurious vanilla crème – is pleasantly decadent. An excellent example of just how glamorous Glasgow can be. + An impressive all-round dining experience - Lighting a little low

The Hyndland Fox 43 Clarence Drive, West End (Map 9A: A1, off) 0141 341 6671, thehyndlandfox. co.uk | £20 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

As the love child of quirky Glasgow deli giant Peckham’s and cool fashionista G1 group, The Hyndland fox occupies a prime corner in the reputable West End suburb. Occupying two levels, the compact area makes good use of space with window seating and a mezzanine area with full length windows. Brunch plates start at 8am, finishing at 5pm serving a wide variety from smoked kippers and poached eggs through to salt beef hash with fried potato, cooked breakfasts and several French toast variants. As day turns to night the space transforms to a twinkling romantic hideaway offering everything from a casual beer and cured meat sharing board to scallops, steak, wine and artisan gins. The scallops are fresh and well seasoned, accompanied with sweet onion purée and crisp smoked bacon adding texture and salty crunch, and Orkney Gold ribeye is similarly well handled by the kitchen. Service from the young crowd may not be the most enthusiastic, but live music, a relaxed lively atmosphere and good food promos keep the punters coming back for more. + Relaxing neighbourhood bistro and bar - Service could use a shake up

The Left Bank 33–35 Gibson Street, West End (Map 9A: E3, 71) 0141 339 5969, theleftbank.co.uk | £13 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

The Left Bank is the first outpost of a Glasgow triumvirate that includes the Two Figs and the Bungo. Now a wellestablished entity on the West End dining scene – its doors opened a decade ago – the Left Bank makes its presence known with a menu that maximises the boldness and spice of Asian cooking. Lentil sambar is a pared-down starter teaming with dry spicing – turmeric, cumin and fried coriander seeds – tempered with a cooling coconut raita. Just as fiery is a hoi an chicken skewer, coated in a bona fide satay sauce (lime leaves, lemongrass, soy sauce and chilli all present), paired with crunchy peanut slaw. If one main delivers in restraint – a superbly charred and dry-aged Angus ribeye, served with rosemary chips and salad – the other, a rump of lamb, feels over-worked with chorizo, salsa verde, leeks and Parma ham. With large-fronted windows that open onto Gibson Street, a menu that runs all day and its location close to the University, the Left Bank is a welcome retreat for West End food-lovers, intellectuals and students alike. + Staff highly informed of dietary spec of dishes - Mezzanine restaurant stiflingly hot

Lucky 7 Canteen 166 Bath Street, City Centre See Bars & Pubs

Marco Pierre White Steakhouse Bar & Grill 75 Waterloo Street, City Centre See Steakhouses & Burgers

The McMillan Southside 862 Pollokshaws Road, Southside See Steakhouses & Burgers

Metropolitan Merchant Square, Candleriggs, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 21) 0141 553 1488, metropolitan-bar.com | £12 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)

Ever popular with the Merchant City style conscious, Metropolitan continues to pull in a glamorous set with a mix of cocktails, music and dining. Ascend the spiral staircase from the ground floor bar and choose a table on the balcony, overlooking the cobbled square, to experience the full atmosphere of indoor-

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outdoor dining, or perhaps the secluded white leather booths at the back of the restaurant for a quiet romantic meal. From the predominately Scottish menu with a European accent, chicken liver parfait, so often generic in flavour, is as smooth as butter, full of garlic, herbs and cream – a boozy kick helps elevate and keep things interesting. Mains, expect fish, meat and game options such as lamb loin with white bean ragù or chicken breast with parmesan risotto and asparagus. From the grill, sirloin steak is a tasty choice – charred and moist accompanied by surprisingly good hand-cut chips. Visiting at the weekend? Make sure you visit the late-night piano bar, a relaxing end to the evening while enjoying an after-dinner digestif. + A whole night out under one roof - Can get exceptionally noisy later on in balcony seats

Moyra Jane’s 20 Kildrostan Street, Southside See Cafés

Mulberry Street Bar Bistro 778 Pollokshaws Road, Southside See Bars & Pubs

Mussel Inn 157 Hope Street, City Centre See Fish

Number 10 Hotel 10 Queens Drive, Southside See Scottish

Number 16 16 Byres Road, West End See Scottish

Ollie’s 122 Nithsdale Road, Southside (Map 8: B2, 3) 0141 424 4600, olliesglasgow. co.uk | £12 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

With fairy lights and gently flickering candles, Ollie’s is a cosy little nook among the grand tenements of Nithsdale Road. Scatter cushions and an array of home-baking may give the impression of a quaint tearoom; however, this little bistro has much more to offer. An extensive menu, which changes to reflect seasonal produce, offers eclectic, wellcooked food that is visually impressive. To start, spiced prawn tempura sees light, crisp batter working well with the acidity of the chilli and harissa dressing, or for the more traditional, haggis neeps and tatties is smooth and luxurious with peppercorn sauce. Mains include crab linguine – a generous bowl of pasta that is full of flashy chilli and citrus flavours, which compliments the shellfish fantastically, while an exotic pan-fried sea bass, resting elegantly on a colourful salad of papaya, beansprouts and mangetout, successfully combines hot and cold elements. To finish, a dark chocolate tart is deliciously rich, while the mousse brûlée is light and full of intoxicating coconut flavours. Excellent service solidifies Ollie’s standing as a neighbourhood dining favourite. + Imaginative menu and attentive staff - Tables are a little too close together

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NEW 111 by Nico

111 Cleveden Road, West End (Map 9A: A1, off) 0141 334 0111, 111bynico.co.uk | Closed Mon | £17 (set lunch) / £17 (set dinner)

Having changed direction three times in recent years, 111 by Nico, named after owner Nico Simeone, is surely here to stay as the talented young chef mixes high-end dining and astonishing value for money while providing a mentoring service to young people from disadvantaged backgrounds. It’s a slick affair with dark wooden floors, slate grey

walls and polished glassware. Service has formality befitting the cooking style and surroundings yet it’s approachable and welcoming, too. Try the tasting menu – at £30 for five courses you’ll not find a better deal in the city. Changing weekly, menu highlights may include velvety celeriac soup served in espresso cups topped with white truffle oil, or smoked ham hough sandwich, crisp yet sweet with a hint of pear and melting into intense black pudding crumb. Smoking glass cloches add theatre and intense flavour to attractively presented duck with spicy aromatic dark juniper berries. Lime cheesecake belies the simple description, a beautifully deconstructed dish evoking flavours of the tropics. Wine pairing is also available as is a very reasonably priced, small set menu. It’s simple: you must eat here. + Faultless cooking and presentation - Nothing

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Ox and Finch

920 Sauchiehall Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 19) 0141 339 8627, oxandfinch. com | £25 (lunch) / £25 (dinner)

A clever juxtaposition between old Finneston and new, Ox and Finch’s décor successfully blends ornate original features of this tenement corner with fashionable utilitarian chic. Its impressive location means unbeatable views of this hip and trendy neighbourhood. A reputation for polished, confident food that aims to impress is well deserved. Precision timings mean that the food – designed for sharing – arrives at carefully considered intervals, allowing time to fully appreciate the quality and smart composition of each plate. Silky buffalo mozzarella is sharpened beautifully by balsamic and sweet figs, while squid and luscious prawns are entangled in the gentle spice of their chorizo and morcilla companions. Confit of hogget is heady and exotic, the strong meat flavours mingling with a fragrant rose harissa. Tongue-tingling chimichurri brings bursts of spice to a perfectly pink rump steak and is spectacular alongside duck fat chips and their pleasingly pungent garlic aioli. Chilled hibiscus poached rhubarb rice pudding is refreshing and as striking as the main event. Impressive attention to detail at this Michelin Bib Gourmand holder extends to the service, which is outstanding. + Clever, confident cooking - Booking is always advisable

of passing trade keeps the atmosphere buzzing throughout the night. + A warm and cosy space to enjoy the view - Sauce quality a bit lacklustre

✱ NEW Riverhill Restaurant & Bar

Porter & Rye

With their original Helensburgh outpost going strong and a coffee bar around the corner, the small Riverhill chain has again expanded to take in this city centre restaurant and bar. From 8am, breakfast begins with an array of goodies including full fry-up, multiple egg on toast variants plus granola, porridge and everything in between. Sandwiches plus more substantial meals are available throughout the day with evening focusing on the best of local produce incorporated into an array of globally influenced options – don’t be surprised if nothing is familiar, yet the knowledgeable staff will guide you with confidence and ease. Goat biryani bursts with layer upon layer of flavour and texture from soft meat, crunchy almonds and bursts of pomegranate. Served on the side – kasundi, a fiery and rich tomato relish adds a wicked kick while a luscious buttery wholewheat poori makes the perfect scooping implement for the rice and meat mixture. Save room for chocolate or salted caramel fondue – cookies, puff candy, fruit and nuts make a delightful combination dipped in the molten mixture. Space is at a premium at this rightly popular diner so do book ahead. + Exciting, innovative dishes for the experimental diner - Small and popular so booking is always needed

1131 Argyle Street, West End See Steakhouses & Burgers

Red Onion 257 West Campbell Street, City Centre (Map 6: D3, 35) 0141 221 6000, red-onion. co.uk | £10.50 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

Heavy drapes and an open fire provide an understated elegance to this chic bistro. Serving hearty cooking of exceptional quality, local chef/owner John Quigley has striven to develop dishes sensitive both to the seasons and dietary needs. Everything on the menu can be adapted to suit glutenfree diets and there is also an impressive array of vegan choices. This admirable commitment to catering for specific needs extends to the monetary world with an excellent value pre-theatre menu. Red Onion’s impressive variety of dishes, based on quality ingredients, include a scallop and chorizo starter demonstrating a skilled kitchen at work, with the gentle spice of the chorizo bringing warmth to the seafood, while French onion soup is robust and filling. A braised blade of beef is meltingly tender and comforting beside its champ accompaniment, while the butter roast chicken with pancetta is luxurious with a rich and creamy sauce and dauphinoise potatoes. Enormous portions mean dessert may be a step too far, but the cheesecake served with caramelized banana and salted peanut caramel is a real winner – and worth any guilty feelings of overindulgence. + Commitment to special dietary dining - Glassware a little worn

3 West Nile Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 97) 0141 248 3495, riverhillcafe.com | £20 (lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Rogano 11 Exchange Place, City Centre See Fish

The Pelican Café 1377 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: C1, 3) 0844 573 0670, thepelicancafe. co.uk | £12 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Overlooking arguably the most famous landmark in Glasgow, The Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, the Pelican Café is in prime West End territory. Inside, dark wood dominates the cosy space while a handful of leather booths add intimacy, with funky illuminated wine bottles hanging low from the ceiling casting colour and shadow. The menu leans towards the more casual side of dining with a large proportion dedicated to burgers – whether patties of chicken, beef, venison or lamb they have all with options to add a mind-boggling array of toppings. Try the DB burger – a juicy piece of beef piled high with mushrooms, crisp bacon and fried egg – Swiss cheese binding it all together while slow-roasted tomato cuts the richness, with monster potato wedges accompanying for dunking in the side pot of spicy pepper sauce. Elsewhere expect fish and chips, ribeye steak or mussels, the latter plump and sweet, their freshness evident. Local sourcing is demonstrated using Glasgowreared rare breed pork, west coast seafood and MacDuff beef, while plenty The List Eating & Drinking Guide 133

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GLASGOW

The Scullery

The Trading House

10 Claremont Street, West End (Map 9B: E3, 42) 0141 221 6200 | £22 (lunch) / £22 (dinner)

24 St Vincent Place, City Centre See Bars & Pubs

When choosing location for any independent upscale eatery in town, Finnieston would surely be this decade’s destination of choice. The Scullery follows this trend with plenty of wood, exposed brickwork and wall hung mirrors reflecting warm light around the small rectangular space. Tempting aromas instantly appetise while perusing the succinct menu, limited to a handful of starters, mains and puddings. Start with hand-dived Scottish king scallops – impressive in size, golden in colour fading to a translucent soft centre, served with an intense earthy yet nutty sweet Jerusalem artichoke purée. Mains have an international feel from Kashmiri vegetable curry to pink lamb loin served with a kick from hummus and dukkah – an Egyptian aromatic seed and nut mix. Pork belly, farmed in Ayrshire and braised for twelve hours, simply melts in the mouth and works surprisingly well with cubes of spicy carrot cake, with black pudding crumb adding further texture and a deep savoury undernote. Service from the young enthusiastic team is on point with the informality of the restaurant. In an area now abundant with choice, they are certainly holding their own. + Local produce, global flavours - Can be draughty at window seats

Tron Theatre

The Shandon Belles 652 Argyle Street, City Centre (Map 9B: G3, off) 0141 221 8188, twofatladiesrestaurant.com/ shandonbelles | £15 (set lunch) / £15 (set dinner)

Nestled in a quiet residential area of Argyle Street, this cosy little spot is worth the effort it may well take newcomers to find. Situated beneath its renowned sister the Buttery, from the Two Fat Ladies group, the Shandon Belles offers homely, unpretentious dishes at exceptional value for money. A converted tenement, it retains many original features – tasteful art nouveau stained glass and an array of artfully displayed trinkets adorn the walls. The menu changes frequently – a reflection of their commitment to seasonal produce – with wholesome choices elevating the comforting, familiar ambience. Kofta bites to start are hearty and robust, softened nicely by a sweet tomato dipping sauce, while baba ghanoush is silky smooth beside warm pitta bread. Generously portioned main courses include a succulent supreme of chicken swathed in a delicate white wine and garlic sauce or fish and chips, the homemade tartar sauce bringing a welcome sharpness to wonderfully flaky fish and its light, crisp batter. Hospitable staff and a reasonably priced wine list add to the enticements at this secretedaway restaurant. + Comforting food in a welcoming environment - No disabled access

The Sisters Jordanhill 1a Ashwood Gardens, 512 Crow Road, West End See Scottish

The Sisters Kelvingrove 36 Kelvingrove Street, West End See Scottish

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Stravaigin Café Bar

28 Gibson Street, West End (Map 9A: F3, 70) 0141 334 2665, stravaigin.co.uk | £19 (lunch) / £19 (dinner)

By its most direct definition, Stravaigin means to wander, yet if it’s most

63 Trongate, Merchant City See Arts Venues

Turnip & Enjoy 393–395 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: G2, 80) 0141 334 6622, turnipandenjoy.co.uk | Closed Mon/Tue | £13.95 (set lunch) / £27 (dinner)

Hutchesons (page 132): upmarket dining in an A-listed landmark

Regardless of how you may feel about the ‘Turnip &’ addition to the name in 2015 – which will largely depend on how you view puns – there’s no denying that the original ‘Enjoy’ part is still apt at a bistro that has been keeping Kelvinbridgers and more well fed for years. Originally more of a café operation, this family-run affair notched things up and started dishing out imaginative, attractive and, yes, enjoyable food, befitting of the stylish, continental vibe of the place, where original features and ornate flourishes mingle pleasantly with exposed brickwork and wooden furnishings. A keenly priced market menu at lunchtimes or weekday evenings offers a bargain taste of the creativity in the kitchen without dropping the quality of the ingredients or the high-end Frenchinspired flourishes. Expect the likes of chorizo crumble over black pudding and slow-cooked duck egg, ox cheek pudding with smoked bone marrow mash or a dark chocolate fondant with salt caramel ice-cream. [Not recently visited.]

Two Fat Ladies recent menus are anything to go by, its etymology means it is moving towards Southeast Asia. This culinary influence is twinned with a commitment to using fine Scottish produce, evidenced, most accurately – and impressively too – by pork belly (from Ramsay of Carluke) paired with kimchi and sesame sticky rice cakes, all brought together with a punchy peanut ssamjang sauce. A simple-sounding kohlrabi noodle salad is testament to a deft hand in the kitchen – sweet crunchy veg working well with noodles dressed in sesame, ginger, lime and a decent chilli kick. There’s a welcome and light revision of a classic – roasted cod, benefitting from a buttermilk marinade, served with puréed and pickled peas and sharp tartar. The café bar at Stravaigin is set off from the adjoining bar and more formal dining downstairs and so may seem to achieve its bistro status by positioning alone, yet its use of bold, imaginative flavours and showcasing of local ingredients ensures this status is clearly evidenced in its food, too. + Cracking Hungarian pinot noir for under £20 - Trio of tasting doughnuts a tad he

Tempus Bar and Restaurant Grand Central Hotel, 99 Gordon Street, City Centre (Map 6: D5, 91) 0141 240 3700, hotelgrandcentralglasgow.co.uk | £21 (dinner)

Nestled inside the sprawling Grand Central Hotel at Glasgow’s main train terminus, the in-house restaurant boasts the plush surroundings that one would expect from such a grandiose venue. Heavy brocade furniture and mood lighting give an intimate feel to the restaurant, while attentive staff ensure the service matches the mood. The menu focuses on using Scottish produce to put a modern twist on classic restaurant favourites. Starters include Hebridean smoked salmon – a generous portion, served with perfectly cooked asparagus and a hollandaise sauce. Ayrshire chicken liver pâté is rich, while its red onion

and cranberry chutney adds a satisfying tartness, bringing a balance of sweet and sour to the plate. The Scottish focus continues with mains where succulent Perthshire chicken is accompanied by a haggis fritter and roasted turnip, artfully drizzled with a Drambuie cream sauce, while delicately spiced seafood linguine is positively bursting with locally sourced seafood including scallops, cod and prawns. To finish on a sugar high, the sticky toffee pudding is wonderfully dark and dense with plenty of treacle. + Relaxed atmosphere and excellent service - Long trek to find the bathrooms

Tibo 443 Duke Street, Dennistoun, East End (Map 7: D1, off) 0141 550 2050, cafetibo. com | £4.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

This cheerful bohemian bistro exudes warmth from its corner location on bustling Duke Street. Cute little lanterns and flickering candlelight give a gentle and peaceful feel to the dining space, while the interesting art on the walls add to the eclectic, artsy vibe, nicely complementing the varied, globally influenced menu. To start, haggis croquettes are hearty and full of flavour beside a rich, creamy Drambuie sauce adding a luxurious element to the dish. Fishcakes are full of bright, zesty flavours that work well with the accompanying chilli and lime salad. Mains include a towering burger complete with tasty pastrami and gooey Applewood cheddar – perfectly paired with chunky home-style chips. Beef and Stornoway black pudding chilli is rich and flavoursome, thanks to the addition of dark chocolate, and, with coriander rice, is an excellent example of fusion food. A wide range of pizzas, baking and daily specials means there is plenty on offer throughout the day. The charmingly friendly staff work hard to make customers feel completely at home in this neighbourhood favourite. + Hospitable welcome and eclectic décor - Toilets could use a bit of TLC

88 Dumbarton Road, West End See Fish

Two Fat Ladies in the City 118a Blythswood Street, City Centre See Fish

Urban Bar & Brasserie 23–25 St Vincent Place, City Centre (Map 6: F4, 118) 0141 248 5636, urbanbrasserie. co.uk | £15.95 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

Urban Bar and Brasserie lays a strong claim for being Glasgow’s most impressive-looking restaurant. Housed in the Bank of England’s former Scottish HQ, the grand entrance leads from a marbled bar into a dining area all brooding and dark with mahogany wood, leather banquettes, polished floorboards – perfectly counterposed with some flickering candlelight and art deco paintings. The menu’s identity draws, in part, from bistro classics – duck and chicken livers, braised ox cheek – with a touch of the cosmopolitan via a starter of salmon and halibut sashimi with wasabi and ponzo sauce. Brasserie dishes highlight the kitchen’s strengths – duck leg, its meat perfectly enriched and softened by virtue of being cooked confit, arrives with crisped skin, sitting on a butter bean and pancetta stew. More pared back in its composition is fillet of halibut, whose accompanying bisque is enlivened by the clever addition of star anise. Desserts are memorable through little tweaks – crème brûlée is elevated by a sharp lick of liquorice at its base, while a discerning sprinkle of salt maximises the flavour from two generous scoops of peanut butter ice-cream. + Expansive wine list from old to new world - Paper-like tablecloths sit on top of linen

Wee Lochan 340 Crow Road, West End See Scottish

The Wilson Street Pantry 6 Wilson Street, Merchant City See Cafés

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CAFES

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CAFES The best cafés are those that stick to their guns. It might be serious coffee, artisan bread, or a proper vegetarian menu – but our favourites tend to excel in their specialist field. Sandwiches, soups and salads dominate many a menu because of the lunchtime rush (and we recognise quality in that area, too), though there are others that offer space and calm, and yet more that slink into evening with wine, beer and bistroesque menus. Organic, local and homemade aren’t uncommon credentials, and a café that knows its customers is also a beautiful thing. Reviewers: Jennifer Armitage, Robbie Armstrong, Kat Borrowdale, Laura Campbell, David Kirkwood, Ruth Marsh, Laura Muetzelfeldt, Andrea Mullaney, Ellen Renton

Avenue Coffee 291 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: C1, 45) 0141 339 5336, avenue.coffee | £8.50 (lunch)

Following the opening of their original Byres Road unit in 2011 under the name Avenue G, the rebranded Avenue Coffee was extremely quick in becoming a West End favourite for a commitment to solid Scottish sourcing, great coffee and convivilaity. Now with a new menu launched in March 2016, they seem set to raise their profile even higher. The ethos and inspiration behind the dishes remains the same, but the café now offers a refined version of their old menu – keeping the excellent breakfast offerings – with the addition of delicately balanced salads, and an exciting range of specials that includes plates such as a vegan bean burger and a BBQ pulled pork burger. Despite their rebranding however, the elements of the café that aided its rise to popularity remain the same – friendly staff, great cooking, and truly excellent coffee. + A brilliant choice for breakfast - Upstairs seating a little cramped

Avenue Coffee An Clachan Off La Belle Place, West End (Map 9B: E1, 47) 07832 485 668, kelvingroveparkcafe. co.uk | £8 (lunch)

It’s hard to believe this woodland eatery in Kelvingrove Park has been in existence for only 7 years, such is the timeless, lived-in appeal of An Clachan. More than just an oasis for the dog walkers, families watching the kids in the park from the al fresco seats, and lunching office workers, the compact kitchen serves up top-notch food, too. From extensive breakfast options including eggs benedict and fulfilling porridge to the deli counter full of daily specials, there’s plenty to tempt the myriad patrons. Burritos feature a rich tomato and bean chilli and come in generous sizes, while the café is justifiably renowned for its cake selection – the carrot cake has a cookie dough-like dense moistness, while walnut and coffee cake has subtle, earthy flavours. An Clachan is the best possible excuse for a walk in the park. + Beautiful surroundings - Prices can be a tad high

321 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: G2, 83) 0141 339 1334, avenue.coffee | £8.50 (lunch)

The second branch of Avenue Coffee, situated on Great Western Road, is now one of the best pit-stops for coffee lovers in Glasgow. The café may be newer to the scene and there may be fewer food options that there are in their Byres Road location, but the clean cut interior design, welcoming service and relaxed atmosphere ensure that it is no less worthy of the reputable Avenue brand name. The café acts as the hub of the Avenue operation, with all the coffee for both branches roasted during the week on the glass mezzanine, an area of the business which knowledgeable staff are happy to discuss with the many caffeineloving customers who descend here for their fix of quality black stuff. + Coffee brewing classes available - Very busy during peak coffee-run times

Babu Bombay Street Kitchen 186 West Regent Street, City Centre See Indian

Artisan Roast

bakery47

15–17 Gibson Street, West End (Map 9A: F3, 73), artisanroast.co.uk | £7 (lunch)

76 Victoria Road See Cafés: Wee Places

Artisan Roast’s status as one of Glasgow’s best spots for a coffee has been verified by the hordes of caffeine addicts who file in for a takeaway pick-me-up, or take their time with a newspaper and a mug of freshly roasted goodness on a daily basis. For those less informed in matters of coffee, staff are happy to share their knowledge of the different varieties of beans from around the world, all roasted daily in Edinburgh. The food menu is relatively short in comparison to its liquid counterpart, which also includes numerous flavoured teas and hot chocolates, but the selection of cakes, sandwiches and breakfast dishes is certainly not too limiting, especially considering the focus on catering for customers with dietary requirements. + The passion for coffee - Cash only

Book a table Go to list.co.uk/food

The Balcony Café Upstairs @ The Glasgow Climbing Centre, 534 Paisley Road West, Southside See Arts Venues

Bell & Felix 248 Kilmarnock Road, Southside (Map 8: A5, off) 0141 649 1684, bellandfelix.com | £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

The popular daytime café is setting out its stall as a weekend night-time bistro – a very welcome initiative on a stretch of Kilmarnock Road that is severely lacking in evening dining options. A solid menu takes the something-for-everyone approach, leaning towards Asian and Scottish flavours. The salt and chilli squid is lifted by lemon aioli and spring onion, while a pickled chilli and warm noodle salad proves to be a delicious foil to sweet chicken satay skewers. Rustic mains such as a venison bourguignon and a roast chicken, accompanied by a slick roast onion purée, stick to the ribs in the best possible way. A flat iron steak could maybe be taken off the heat a few seconds earlier, yet it is tempered and overshadowed by its accompanying sides of fresh herb chimichurri and moreish confit baby tomatoes. As word spreads,

look out for Bell & Felix becoming the bustling neighbourhood favourite it deserves to be. + Much-needed evening dining on Kilmarnock Road - Fridge-cold cheeseboard

✱ HITLIST

Biscuit 17 Skirving Street, Southside (Map 8: A5, 20) 0141 632 3466 | £8 (lunch)

Behind an unassuming shop front on Shawlands’ bohemian Skirving Street, Biscuit serves up thoughtfully prepared food from a well-considered menu of all-day breakfasts, burgers, baked potatoes, and wraps, as well as some unexpected options such as the Highlander haggis sandwich, and plenty of cakes. The impressive club sandwich is six inches tall, with chicken and bacon layers complemented by jalapeños and crunchy gherkins respectively – the cream cheese and mustard elevating this snack from comfort food to signature sandwich. Friendly staff are happy to make recommendations, and their tastes are to be trusted – the nachos are a staff favourite. Rather than crisps, these are deep-fried triangles of tortilla, light, crisp and oily, topped with cheese, salsa, and sour cream. Sweet potato wedges are suggested as an off-menu side dish, and are the perfect way to ease in some vitamin C. Affordable, casual, and cooked with care, Biscuit is a highlight in the city’s Southside. + Unbeatable nachos - Rather dimly lit

The Black Poppy 47–49 Stonelaw Road, Southside (Map 8: D5, off) 0141 647 2979 | Closed Sun | £4.95 (set lunch) / £6 (dinner)

The Black Poppy gives the warmest of welcomes from an otherwise bleak stretch of Stonelaw Road, and with eight flavours of balsamic vinegar and eleven types of pâté, it’s a pretty unique sort of place, too. It exudes community spirit and, as well as hosting events with local businesses, it boasts a mixed clientele of mums and toddlers, the elderly, solo sippers and twenty-somethings. The emphasis is firmly on home-made and home-grown. Apart from fabulous fresh soups (one meat, one veg), lasagne and macaroni cheese, there are interesting weekly specials such as langoustine tails, plus family-made cakes, and tripledecker sandwiches (very well-priced), pies (and those pâtés) from Findlater’s at Linlithgow, as well as beer from some of the smaller Scottish craft breweries and liqueur coffees (popular is the Bailey’s hot chocolate). All suppliers are small and with the right ethos – just like the Black Poppy. + The warmth, the ethos, the sandwiches - Difficult to park nearby during the day

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CAFES ✱ The Blue Chair A welcoming and soulful creative hangout with inventive home cooking served with charm. ✱ Dandelion Café Southside park café with locals and regulars standing in line for some of the best home-baking in Glasgow. ✱ Delizique Beautiful home-baked dishes served by attentive staff within a quirky West End interior. ✱ Kember & Jones Fine Food Emporium Undisputedly one of of Glasgow’s best cafés, who grind their own coffee, and bake their own exceptionally good bread and cakes. ✱ McCune Smith Café A historical theme may run through the menu but McCune Smith is very forward thinking in terms of its intelligent dishes and contemporary design. ✱ Martha’s Superfood gets the fast food treatment at this revolutionary Glasgow canteen – everything from porridge pots to rainbow salads. ✱ North Star Step off Queen Margaret Drive and into the authentic taste of a welcoming and bustling Mediterranean canteen. ✱ Singl-end Spacious, bright and quirkily rustic basement café and bakehouse on Garnethill, serving refined all-day breakfasts and lunches. ✱ The Tearooms @ The Butterfly and the Pig A retrostyle tearoom offering lunch, afternoon tea, and an extensive selection of tea and cakes.

The Blue Chair

85 High Street, Merchant City (Map 7: D2, 27) 0141 552 7849, bluechairglasgow. com | £7.50 (lunch) / £8.50 (dinner)

Arts venue or eatery, lunch stop or evening dining den, the Blue Chair does it all with charm and panache. A quirky cobbled-together interior hosts a massive ‘daily specials’ board to augment the already large menu dispensed from a tiny back kitchen. Proprietor Lorrelle McGurran is steeped in all things arty and treats patrons with the care and sincerity of an attentive friend. She also cooks the inspired dishes that might be best termed International home-cooking – shades of Thai, Yankee, Tex Mex, and South Indian – with plenty of choices for special dieters, too. Splendid vegetarian haggis pie is delicious and filling, beautifully seasoned, with a golden crust, while chicken quesadillas are light and fragrant, and handmade burgers are

popular, with a lovingly crafted spicy bean version for veggies. The eponymous chair sits in the corner window ready for the artist occupying it on performance nights of comedy, poetry, cabaret, spoken word, music and amateur film. + Imaginative cooking in relaxing surroundings - Deserves a higher profile

Booly Mardy’s 28 Vinicombe Street, West End See Bars & Pubs

Brooklyn Café 21 Minard Road, Southside (Map 8: A4, 16) 0141 632 3427 | £9 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

With 85 years continued presence on the corner of Minard Road and Frankfort Street, this Southside survivor The List Eating & Drinking Guide 135

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GLASGOW

Café at GOMA

Coffee, Chocolate and Tea

Royal Exchange Square, Merchant City See Arts Venues

944 Argyle Street, West End See Cafés: Wee Places

Café Hula

Coia’s Café

321 Hope Street, City Centre (Map 6: E1, 25) 0141 353 1660, cafehula.co.uk | £7 (set lunch) / £10 (dinner)

473–477 Duke Street, East End See Italian

Cottonrake

Café D’Jaconelli

With a clientele as varied and eclectic as the décor, it’s hard not to feel at home as soon as you enter Café Hula. Wooden benches stacked with cushions fill the expansive window bays, while students, professionals and tourists soak up the distinctive world-café ambience. Food is equally packed with personality, with stand-outs including a tomato-based fish stew and the ample, indulgent Hula burger. Even simple pasta dishes are given attention to detail, such as penne with fresh coriander and creamy goat’s cheese, and this elevates the dining experience high above the average café. Café Hula is clearly treasured by its regulars and newly discovered by Conservatoire students every year. Quirky in all the right ways. + Uncompromising attention to food detail - Full range of menu isn’t always clearly available

570 Maryhill Road, West End (Map 9A: H1, off) 0141 946 1124 | £6.50 (lunch)

NEW Café Strange Brew

is certainly one of the oldest dining venues in Glasgow. Touches of the classic Italian café remain, such as the nostalgic black and white photos on the wall or the ice-cream unit with flavours both classic and quirky (Kinder Bueno) on show to delight the children. But where Brooklyn sets itself apart is its recent embrace of ‘dude food’. Chicken wings come with a buffalo sauce that kicks like a mule, while dry-rub ribs have a salty, peppery, moreish crust and pink meat coming off the bone. The BYOB policy means dishes such as these, alongside fish and chips, mac and cheese and the like, make this place as good a destination for an inexpensive evening meal as it is for the fry-ups and buttermilk pancake stacks that keep it busy at the weekends. + Broad appeal without spreading itself too thin - Coffee is fairly average

The Burrell Café The Burrell Collection, Pollok Country Park, 2060 Pollokshaws Rd, Southside See Arts Venues

When you’ve got a good thing going, don’t change it. This has been the formula that has successfully taken Café D’Jaconelli through a rich history at it’s Maryhill base, starting in 1924. True, the café was featured in Trainspotting, but the appealing authenticity of this affectionately regarded spot goes far beyond a cult film. In a West End filling up with hip new coffee houses, Jaconelli feels a lot cooler – a place where you can eat delicious artisan ice-cream in 1950s style booths with the songs of the era, an original jukebox machine and an illuminated fish tank setting the scene. The classic old-school café food is excellent value, featuring ever-popular breakfasts, plus local favourites such as a creamy macaroni cheese, and it’d be turning your back on history not to try a knickerbocker glory from this abiding café. + The inimitable character of the café - Ice-cream could be served with less sauce

TIPLIST FOR BREAKFAST & BRUNCH • The Bungo Bar & Kitchen Wooden tables and exposed brick walls at this stylish bistro, great for a leisurely brunch. 130 • Café Gandolﬁ Glaswegian dining institution, proudly championing the best of Scottish produce since 1979. 130 • Cafezique Relaxed café-style atmosphere, with local produce, interesting dishes and an everchanging menu. 130 • The Hyndland Café Popular spot serving all-day breakfasts (with weekend delivery), light lunches and sweet snacks. 137 • Meadow Road Newcomer doing great coffee and excellent brunches in a laid-back setting down Partick way. 138 • TriBeCa With three branches across the city, there’s no reason not to indulge in some NY-style and NY-size breakfasts. 165

1109 Pollokshaws Road, Southside (Map 8: A4, 19) 0141 237 4321 | £8 (lunch)

‘Keep Shawlands Strange’ is the mantra of this Pollokshaws Road newcomer – and its chef-created dishes certainly sets it far beyond the ‘tray bake and panini’ menus of many of its fellow neighbourhood cafés. Smoked chilli hollandaise and spicy shakshuka baked eggs with labneh yogurt are the standout from the brunch offerings, while the short and smart house favourites selection offers a molten macaroni and cheese with optional bacon crumb, and goat’s cheese salad with candied walnut and beetroot. Vegans are well catered for with their own breakfast plate of roast tomatoes, tahini, avocado and black sesame, plus the chance to indulge their sweet tooth with a dairy-free empire biscuit. While dishes sometimes promise more than they deliver – the chicken sandwich is fairly workaday – this is a very welcome addition to the burgeoning Southside food scene. + Creative vegan breakfast plate - Mac and cheese missing bacon crumb

Café Wander 110a West George Street, City Centre (Map 6: E3, 66) 0141 353 3968, cafewander.com | Closed Sun | £8 (lunch)

Home to the wanderer and the citydweller alike, this rustic basement café feels pleasantly distant from the city centre, despite being smack in the middle of the hustling hoi polloi. Postcards pepper the walls, along with revolving displays of work from local artists, giving the café an enticing timeless, placeless feel. Café Wander deliberately has no WiFi – a rarity in this day and age that encourages visitors to switch off and soak up the relaxed atmosphere. The well-honed menu includes burgers, which come with generous helpings of fresh rocket and ripe cherry tomatoes, fresh juices, and a famously in-demand lentil soup. If you’re in the mood for something sweet, the chocolate brownies are delectably gooey and pudding-like, with a glossy crust on top and a sprinkle of icing sugar. This chilled-out café will make anyone feel at home. + Great locations - Not a place to sit and work

Cherry and Heather Fine Foods 7 North Gower Street, Southside See Cafés: Wee Places

497 Great Western Road, West End See Cafés: Wee Places

Cranachan

delight, plus there is an extensive choice of teas and other beverages from around the world. Similar menus across the three also include brunch with eggs various ways, porridge and mini breakfast sliders, plus hearty sandwiches and pot pies for lunch. The city centre Tea Lounge morphs into gin specialist Gin71 in the evening, while the Tea Garden becomes Virginia Bar (see p128). + Dedicated to the tea - On the pricey side

Unit 51, Princes Square, 48 Buchanan Street, City Centre (Map 6: F5, 105) 0141 248 6257, cranachancafe.co.uk | £8.25 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

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This bustling café is nestled in under the great glass-domed roof of Princes Square shopping centre. All things Scottish are well represented here – think haggis bonbons, Cullen skink and Stornoway black pudding – but there are also burgers, fillet steaks and curry. The extensive menu is split into starters, platters, salads, sandwiches and mains. Pan-seared bream comes with parsley crushed potatoes, pesto and grilled veg, while the chicken sandwich is served with rocket, tarragon crème fraîche and roasted peppers. Cranachan’s eponymous cake – a reimagining of the traditional dessert – is a definite highlight. Fluffy sponge topped with cream, whisky-soaked raspberries and a sprinkling of oatmeal is good enough to round off any lunch. Try it with a pot of Suki tea, a latte, or even a digestif. Pop in at breakfast time, too, before a bit of shopping, for French toast, clootie dumplings, waffles or porridge. + Great view from up on high - You might need to queue at peak times

Despite the popularity of this café in Newlands Park, the staff – and the clean, modern interior – ensure this place is somewhere you will feel well taken care of. There’s always a mouthwatering selection of cakes and bakes, such as Victoria sponge or caramel shortbread, with gluten-free options available. They do brunch well, too – French toast for instance, or a hearty selection of breakfast rolls. In fact there’s nothing they don’t do well. For lunch, there’s a choice of sandwiches or soups such as carrot, coriander and chickpea, and they also do a high tea on Tuesday evenings. This includes a main course, often with a nostalgic edge, which is in keeping with the history of the building – it used to be a pavilion with changing rooms for the tennis courts opposite. And, through the quality of ingredients and care and attention of all who work here, this café has rightly earned its place at the heart of the community. + Fabulous home-baking that’s worth queuing for - It gets very busy

Crolla’s Gelateria 221 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: C2, 38) 0141 341 0465, crollasgelateria.co.uk | £7 (lunch) / £7 (dinner)

This brightly coloured parlour throngs in the summer months, its two floors spilling over with contented youngsters enjoying the delights of rich, tasty Italian ice-cream. It does well out of season too, with a savoury menu of baguettes, toasties and sandwiches to keep hungry parents happy while the kids tuck into flavours like strawberry, chocolate chip and mint. Upbeat interiors carry the colours of the Crolla logo, with comfy red leather upholstery, whitewashed walls and glass counters where uniformed staff talk customers through the choices. They specialise in cold-stone creations where your chosen ice-cream is folded in with extra flavours and textures, like cookies, meringue and tablet, on a marble slab. Other staples at this buzzing little bolthole from the bustle of Byres Road include sodas, ice-cream floats, milkshakes and the rather novel but popular pizza cone. + Authentic, high-quality Italian icecream - Less authentic honeycomb and sponge

NEW Dandelion Café

Newlands Park Pavilion, 26 Lubnaig Road, Southside (Map 8: A5, off), cafedandelion.wordpress.com | £7 (lunch)

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Delizique

70–72 Hyndland Street, West End (Map 9A: B2, 2) 0141 339 2000, delizique.com | £9 (lunch)

A slice of soft and crusted freshly baked bread is one of life’s little pleasures, and this is an area in which Delizique triumphs. Whether it is served alongside a vibrant trio of sobrasada, hummus, and beetroot and mackerel pâté, or topped with mozzarella, slow-roast tomato and spinach, that distinctive freshly baked taste permeates every dish. The breakfast menu offers something a little different, with a sophisticated range of pancakes including raspberry and ricotta, and banana and pecan, as well as the option of gluten-free alternatives for all of the bread-based dishes. The décor of the café – who has sister venue Cafezique next door – is also rather alternative, but the large yellow door that conceals the coffee machine and garden rake lighting decoration add to its enduring charm for Hyndland locals and beyond. + Clever kids ‘make your own board’ option - Window seats a little cramped

Cup

Devils Deli

• Tea Garden: Virginia Court, Merchant City (Map 7: A2, 5) 0141 553 2326 | £11 (lunch) • Tea Lounge: 71 Renfield Street, City Centre (Map 6: E3, 50) 0141 353 2959 | £11 (lunch) • Tea Room: 311 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: C1) 0141 357 2525, cupglasgow. co.uk | £11 (lunch)

5 Hyndland Street, West End See Cafés: Wee Places

Tea specialist Cup have three venues in town: a smart, modern West End café on bustling Byres Road, a listed city centre building complete with portraits of Queen Victoria and original wall tiles, and a recent addition in a historic courtyard in the Merchant City. Afternoon tea is king here, with the likes of brioche rolls, rosemary focaccia and cakes tiered to

69 Kilmarnock Road, Southside See Bistros & Brasseries

The Doocot Café and Bar The Lighthouse, 11 Mitchell Lane, City Centre See Arts Venues

Eat Café

Eat Deli 16 Busby Rd, Clarkston, Southside (Map 8: A5, off) 0141 638 7123, eat-deli.co.uk | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

If the high street is dying, no-one seems to have told Clarkston about it, as the

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GLASGOW

film screenings et al. Sitting in the Glad Café one can feel that it’s proud of its community, and that its community is glad to have it. + The sense of space and time one has - Could do with more comfy seats

The Great Western Sandwich Co. 657 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: E1, 55) 0141 334 6732 | £7.50 (lunch)

Piece (pages 139 & 143): gourmet sandwichmongers with three venues in town

This sandwich shop delivers over and above what its name might suggest. The menu features transcontinental flavours made with local ingredients, with sandwiches split into pork, beef, bird, veggie and fish. A number of classics such as BLTs and ham salad sandwiches are also available, as well as an allday breakfast menu with burritos, full brekkies or avocados and poached eggs on toast. Food is creatively named, with sandwiches dedicated to Lee Perry, Sub Club and Suárez. The carnitas, an ode to Mexico, features high-quality pulled pork with avocado and sour cream, while the Jackie Chan is stuffed with soy and apple marinated chicken, housemade kimchi and sriracha. If either are not spicy enough for you, add some of their own hot sauce to the mix. All menu options are also available as salads – for the gluten or waistline conscious. + Fresh local produce - Dance music at lunchtime

Gusto & Relish Glasgow suburb positively bustles with independent operators. At the heart of this is the much-loved Eat Deli, where every table is taken on a midweek lunchtime while a stream of workers pop in to grab chipotle chicken ciabattas and Italian sodas to go. Famed for its daily brunch – a Stornoway stack which adds top-class black pudding to a classic Benedict or veggie-friendly avocadotopped huevos rancheros – but don’t overlook what’s on offer on the specials blackboard, with an umami-packed bowl of linguine carbonara that would put many a Glasgow trattoria to shame. Eyecatching home-baking including glazed pistachio muffins and a tart-then-sweet rhubarb and custard cake will only add to your groaning waistline. Any high street would be lucky to have an Eat Deli on it. + Quality, high street baking - £2.75 for a flat white is pretty steep

The Edwardian Kitchen Restaurant Pollok House, Pollok Country Park, 2060 Pollokshaws Road, Southside See Arts Venues

Eusebi Deli 152 Park Road, West End See Italian

with Fika’s role as a CIC: the cinnamon buns are sourced from Freedom Bakery, a social enterprise that trains prisoners in the art of baking. + Ethical and inclusive communityoriented café - Still in the process of finding its feet

Gesso 20–22 St Georges Road, City Centre (Map 6: A1, 1) 0141 258 3540 | £9 (lunch)

Housed in the bowels of the A-listed Mansions at Glasgow’s busy Charing Cross, a few enticing steps from Starbucks, Gesso (pronounced Jesso – as in the art material) stretches far back from the small frontage into a large pleasant café, with plenty of space at the back for the art exhibitions that are regularly on. It’s an attractive spot, contemporary and appealing, with mixed furniture of tables for the regular studious types and the odd sofa for the loungers. There’s a decent line in local suppliesto-go as well as a range of sandwiches, snacks, brunches and cakes and bakes. Having recently been taken over by Tinderbox – the café wing of Glasgow coffee giant Matthew Algie – it remains to be seen whether it can hold on to its indie-arty ethos. + Good space for art with a brew - Not quite as independent as it was

NEW For Fika Sake 7 Keith Street, West End (Map 9A: A3, 8), fikaglasgow.com | £7 (lunch)

This new community interest company has big ambitions for the future that include community activity and hosting live music events. Its cavernous interior is minimally furnished with reclaimed furniture and fittings that exude Scandicool. The atmosphere is relaxed and inclusive – a mixed clientele variously read, work and eat with friends – both on the ground floor and in the vast mezzanine space accessible both by stairs and newly fitted lift. The food on offer is straightforward, hearty Swedishinspired dishes, with pickles, beetroot, smoked salmon and dill, all making an appearance on a short menu offering a couple of options for lunch. Right now, the main attraction is the coffee and cakes – coffee is Dear Green, and the cakes have an ethical backstory in line

729–731 Pollokshaws Road, Southside (Map 8: C3, 12) 0141 4241233, gustoandrelish.com | £9 (lunch) / £9 (dinner)

This cosy Southside café was quietly leading the way in curing its own inhouse meats long before many a hipster bar across Glasgow decided it needed its own smoker. Join the young families and laptop warriors who keep Gusto and Relish buzzing and vibrant all day long and grab a sample of the unmissable home-cured bacons and pastrami, which come served up on doorstop-size sandwiches with homemade chutneys or slathered with Emmental and dill pickles in a bagel. The likes of a nutmeg-laced baked eggs Florentine and haggis bruschetta drizzled with fruity rapeseed oil complete the well-established and thoughtful all-day menu. Don’t forget to finish up with some of the hearty homebaking, too – you can always burn off that slab of crunchy ginger loaf on the Queens Park swings nearby. + Home-cured bacon makes all the difference - Can sometimes feel a bit like a crèche

Herald Café Bar Mitchell Library, North Street, West End See Arts Venues

The Hidden Lane Tearoom The Glad Café 1006a Pollokshaws Road, Southside (Map 8: B4, 15) 0141 636 6119, thegladcafe.co.uk | £6 (set lunch) / £13 (dinner)

The Glad Café is many things to many people, in a spacious environ that takes its time in a way few places in the West End are afforded. There’s Dear Green coffee, and excellent cakes (always gluten-free available – there’s GF bread for sandwiches, too). There’s an elegant afternoon menu, with light bites such as a zesty mackerel pâté, a well-balanced halloumi and courgette salad, or a delightful black pudding scotch that is properly crispy then pleasingly runny and rich. There’s a classy beer (and wine) selection that sees daytime into night, including bottles from the Williams, Drygate and Fallen breweries. It’s also an arts space, hosting gigs, comedy,

8 Argyle Court, 1103 Argyle Street, West End See Arts Venues

The Hyndland Café 96 Clarence Drive, West End (Map 9A: A1, off) 0141 334 2719, thehyndlandcafe. com | £7 (lunch)

A handy local café on busy Clarence Drive in leafy Hyndland with a unique service that’s a boon for the area’s hungover students: on weekends they’ll deliver breakfast for those craving a bit of comfort food in bed. They also do a thriving takeaway trade as well as having tables and booths in the small café for those looking to settle in for the variety of all-day breakfasts, light lunches, sandwiches, soups and cakes as well as daily specials. All the usual favourites are on offer such as BLTs, baked potatoes and homemade

macaroni cheese are here, simply prepared but certainly satisfying. There’s a particularly good choice of drinks, with coffees, herbal infusions, fruit smoothies, milkshakes and proper hot chocolate – perfect for whiling away a chatty hour with a friend. + ‘Nana’ Bisley’s gloriously unhealthy cakes - Hard to get a table at weekends

The Hyndland Fox 43 Clarence Drive, West End See Bistros & Brasseries

Juice Garden • 23 Renfield Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 78) 0141 221 3876 • 223 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: C2, 39) 0141 339 6275, juicegarden.org | £11 (lunch)

With two branches, one in the city centre and another in the West End, Juice Garden is fresh, bright and clean – all attributes that fit the food and drink, as well as décor and atmosphere of this home of healthy living. As you might expect, the garden theme makes its way unobtrusively into the interior design, with lots of plants about and ‘grass’ underfoot. Raw food is Juice Garden’s trademark speciality, from mains such as raw lasagne and macadamia and spinach cannelloni, to raw desserts such as cheesecake made with date syrup, cashew cream and fruit. Health benefits aside, the food is undeniably tasty, and the plentiful range of juices includes greens like kale, broccoli and spinach, and breakfast smoothies filled with oats and banana. Chia seed puddings, with the consistency of ice-cream, are flavoured with fresh strawberry or blueberry compote, and are an unusual and delicious addition to the menu. + The consistently energetic atmosphere - Limited seating in the city centre branch

KG Café Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, Kelvingrove Park, Argyle Street, West End See Arts Venues

✱ Kember & Jones Fine Food Emporium 134 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: C2, 29) 0141 337 3851, kemberandjones. co.uk | £13.50 (lunch) / £13.50 (dinner)

The rise and rise of Kember & Jones is a well-known success story of the thriving Hillhead area. The impeccable cooking and uncompromising quality of ingredients makes this café consistently lauded, with wide culinary influences including Sweden, Spain and Morocco. Everything about the enticing, compact space feels meticulously chosen, from the recipe books and craft beers adorning the shelves to wide dining benches. A best-seller is a salad topped with nicely browned goat’s cheese which, like all of the salads on the menu, will leave you satiated for hours. Another dish well worth sampling is the chorizo and manchego cheese salad, replete with al dente potatoes and sun-blush tomatoes. Also on the menu are large sharing platters, daily specials and a vast and varied selection of homemade cakes, including macaroons, and the good coffee is home-roasted, too. + Superb cooking - Expect to queue for a table

La Tea Doh 136 Nithsdale Road, Southside See Cafés: Wee Places

Laboratorio Espresso 93 West Nile Street, City Centre See Cafés: Wee Places The List Eating & Drinking Guide 137

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The Little Café

Moyra Jane’s

1361 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: C1, 4) 0141 337 2068 | £5 (set lunch) / £8.50 (dinner)

20 Kildrostan Street, Southside (Map 8: B2, 4) 0141 423 5628 | £9 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Pizzerias are a ubiquitous sight around Glasgow, yet there are few that rival the authenticity of the cooking at the Little Café. It’s clear from the fact that the bulk of the menu is dedicated to it, that the pizza is the star of the show, with possible varieties ranging from the more traditional margherita or Black Forest with mozzarella, rocket and ham, to Spanish vs Italian options which feature the Spanish chorizo and cherry tomato, all served on a beautifully crisp base. The offer of both a student discount and a two-pizzas-for-£12 deal make the café an affordable option when it comes to ordering a takeaway, but sitting in definitely has its advantages, should you manage to grab a seat, namely the stunning views of Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum, with a few outdoor seats to get an even better view. + Brilliant pizza - Hard to resist frequently ordering takeaway

Justifiably treasured by sweet-toothed Southsiders as the home of a cake counter groaning with cheesecake, Bakewell tarts and chewy meringues fresh from the oven, Moyra Jane’s café transforms into an informal Euro bistro come the evening. The young couples on a midweek date night and older solo clientele add to the relaxed Continental feel here, and the vast menu retains all its daytime favourites alongside a brief seasonal specials blackboard. There’s something pleasing about being able to tuck into an authentic coq au vin with a gutsy, dark gravy while your dining partner tackles a full Scottish fry-up. There’s nods to the contemporary with MJ’s Superfoods salad (artichokes, quinoa, beets and seeds) but it’s the likegrandma-used-to-make mince and tatties and Loch Fyne kippers that keep the many regulars returning. They also opened another diner, MJ’s Brasserie on Seres Road in Clarkston, in spring 2016. + Those cakes taste just as good at 9pm - Amy Winehouse album on a loop

LUV Café 1121 Govan Road, Southside (Map 9B: A1, off) 0141 445 0200, luvcafe.co.uk | Closed Sat/Sun | £4.50 (set lunch)

Sitting on the corner of a busy intersection, LUV Café stands out with its wooden façade and golden lettering. The café boasts a clear ethos, with no meal on the menu costing more than £4.50. Sitting under cherub lampshades and bejewelled chandeliers, you’d be forgiven for forgetting you were sitting in Govan. LUV trades in hot rolls and drinks until 11am, then serves soups, sandwiches, and their trademark toasted tascas for lunch. The latter comes with the likes of pulled pork and cheddar, marinated Cajun chicken, or roasted peppers, feta and rocket. Also on the menu are jacket potatoes with all the usual suspects, or a tuna and black olive salad. Pop in after lunch for tea, coffee, or a slice of something sweet. Just be sure to get down early if you want some hot food. + Affordable for everyone - Limited opening hours

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McCune Smith Café

3–5 Duke Street, East End (Map 7: D1, off) 0141 548 1114, mccunesmith.co.uk | Closed Sun | £6.50 (lunch)

The comparative brevity of the menu at McCune Smith draws attention to the fresh on-site preparation of the food, as well as indicating the intricacies of their cooking. For instance, the selection of sandwiches, which features the imaginative pesto, goat’s cheese, and red cabbage and apple slaw on rye, and the exotic spice of sweet potato and Brazilian chicken on spelt, demonstrates a high level of thoughtfulness and diversity in the kitchen. A decadent display of cakes sits beside the till, and if you feel as though you need something to counteract the guilty indulgence of a peanut butter brownie mini pie, they have that covered too. Residing in one of the oldest parts of the city, McCune Smith is not only a gastronomic treat but a historical education, with each sandwich named after an important figure in the Enlightenment. + Exceptional sandwiches - Very busy around lunchtime

The Mad Platter 360 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: G2, 82) 0141 334 8894 | Closed Mon | £8 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

You’ll receive an enthusiastic welcome at the Mad Platter, the eccentrically styled bistro whose curio-crammed interior lives up to its Alice in Wonderland-inspired name. It’s not all about the novelty factor though, or platters for that matter (choose from cheese, meat, fish and more). A

My Home Bakery 59 Hyndland Street, West End See Cafés: Wee Places

Nic’s NYC Deli Roaster’s Deli (page 140): this diner in Partick Subway brings a bit of NYC to SPT

substantial all-day menu and daily specials board ensure locals’ interest is maintained. Breakfast is a highlight, and the café’s cosy mezzanine area is an ideal spot to read the paper, enjoy a Dear Green coffee and tuck into lightly spiced French toast and Ayrshire bacon with lashings of maple syrup. With extended opening hours at the weekend and alcohol available, there are ambitions to make the Mad Platter an evening hangout. With a broader wine selection and a few more spirits added to the menu, it could well prove equally as popular as a bar. + Breakfast menu - Limited selection of alcohol

Mark’s Deli 6 Burnfield Road, Southside (Map 8: A5, off) 0141 638 8947, marksdeli.co.uk | Saturday | £6.95 (set lunch)

This bright kosher café in the serene suburb of Giffnock, entered through the connecting shop, offers a menu with some American influences, including substantial burgers and hot dogs, but for a traditional taste opt for the salt beef. The slices of smooth, pink meat disintegrate at the touch, sharpened with pickle and mustard – accompanied by fried potato cake latkes, it’s an enjoyable and flavoursome lunch. A falafel platter is neatly presented, with crispy falafels, pittas, salad and dips, allowing customers to build their own, or to share. The menu and décor are infused with nostalgia, evoking a time, place and emotion. Walls are hung with framed cartoons, photos, and ads for Jewish suppliers from Glasgow’s past, celebrating shared history, while the menu is written with a familial warmth, where Jewish Penicillin is a comforting chicken soup with noodles and dumplings. + Unique and authentic menu - Fairly basic décor

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Martha’s

142a St Vincent Street, City Centre (Map 6: D4, 75) 0141 248 9771, mymarthas. co.uk | Closed Sun | £8 (lunch) / £8 (dinner)

Green and squeaky clean, like a works canteen you can only dream about,

Martha’s is every inch the flagship store for a modern, healthy fast-food chain of the future. Help yourself from the fridges lined with vividly coloured treats, from coconut chia pudding to raw peanut butter cake, alongside compostable cups crammed with beetroot, blueberries and kale, waiting to be blitzed into the freshest, tastiest juices available in the city. From the busy hot counter, the likes of red dragon pork with nutty brown rice and yogurt-dressed slaw arrives lightning-quick and with a genuine smile from staff well versed in delivering to the workers buzzing in for a tasty feel-good lunch. The merest stumble comes from the chipotle chicken, which needs several slugs of sriracha to wake it up. The main mystery with Martha’s is why it hasn’t already been rolled out to every city centre in the country. + Truly fast, truly healthy food - Chipotle chicken needs a jolt of spice

NEW Meadow Road 579 Dumbarton Road, West End (Map 9A: A3, off) | £6.50 (lunch)

Health-conscious and/or vegetarian coffee aficionados will most likely adore newcomer Meadow Road. It’s slightly off the beaten track for this sort of place, but has all the hallmarks of a good indie café in Glasgow – quirky and inviting décor, skilfully brewed Dear Green coffee, gluten-free bakes and freshly prepared lunches that won’t break the bank. Highly Instagramable dishes such as their Meadow Road eggs come with perfectly poached egg coating smoked salmon and avocado, matching the pretty coffees in content and appearance. The surroundings aren’t bad either, and customers can enjoy a clear view of Dumbarton Road through floor-to-ceiling windows. The only seating available face the counter and windows, so diners hoping to eat in larger groups or nosey at the café’s comings and goings will be disappointed – a small complaint given the quality of what’s on offer at this café in its infancy. + Food and drink equally accomplished - Isolating seating arrangement

• 50 St Enoch Square, City Centre (Map 6: E6, 103) 0141 248 7114 | £7 (lunch) • 183 Hope Street, City Centre (Map 6: D3, 56) | £7 (lunch) • 396 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: D1, 48) 0141 339 7003 | £7 (lunch)

Nic’s NYC Deli is part of a chain of three Glasgow-wide cafés with the same name (the old Crêpe à Croissant premises), but you wouldn’t know it from venturing inside one. Which is a pity, because a lot of hard work evidently goes on behind the scenes with Nic herself prepared to muck in frying and decorating freshly made doughnuts. From the playful menus to the grunge-inspired décor, this café fully embraces the indulgence of New York City street food. It’s all there – the Heart Stopper sandwich, the pancake stacks slathered in syrup, and something called the Threesome, a decadent sweet sandwich. Despite the latter’s saucy name, Nic’s NYC Deli is a child-friendly place, open until late, with treats designed to put smiles on their faces such as happy hippo-topped donuts. All good fun – the owner should take some credit for it. + Light-as-a-feather fresh doughnuts - Décor a bit impersonal

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North Star

108 Queen Margaret Drive, West End (Map 9A: D1, off) 0141 946 5365 | £7 (lunch)

From the friendly “ciao” as you step through the door, the Italian influence in this West End café is obvious. It’s evident in the genuine passion for the food they make, too. There’s a broad Mediterranean influence to the menu but, as anyone that’s ever tried their full Scottish breakfast

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or French toast will confirm, that’s not all they do (and do incredibly well). Everything about North Star shines with a love of what they do, and you can taste it in the food, from the soup and filled ciabatta, to favourites such as Spanish tortilla and chorizo and chickpea stew. Gluten-free diners are also very well looked after, with an excellent range of different dishes and cakes on offer – the lemon and raspberry polenta cake is crumbly and sweet with melted raspberries, and definitely worth returning for. They’re picking up regular accolades these days – one visit and it’s easy to see why. + Perfect for weekend brunch - Waiting for a table at busy times

Offshore 3/5 Gibson Street, West End (Map 9A: F3, 75) 07912 894795, offshore-coffee.co.uk | £7 (lunch)

Don’t be fooled by the electric colours of its painted exterior – Offshore is something of an oasis, the perfect place to seek refuge from the roaring traffic of Gibson Street. The café is characterised by a homely and relaxed atmosphere which comes as the product of a foolproof combination – cosy furnishings including armchairs, window seats with views over the Kelvin into the park, a bountiful supply of cushions, and the soothing sounds of an acoustic playlist. Add in a menu that combines light snacks and hearty favourites with a tempting display of cakes and Offshore’s got it all. Currently the café is particularly focused on expanding its range for customers with dietary requirements, which already includes the hugely popular vegan cakes, stews and toasties, gluten-free soups and the beautifully fragrant vegetarian sweet potato tagine. + Caters to everyone’s needs - No disabled toilet

Old Salty’s • 33 Byres Road, West End • 1126 Argyle Street, West End See Fish

always does). If coffee is your thing, this is as good as it gets. But there’s absolutely no pretension to Papercup. Aficionados sit alongside students and workers in a space that’s small and ramshackle – but genuinely warm. Toasted sourdough pops up often – in a zingy sandwich of halloumi, mushroom, pesto and lemon, or beneath poached eggs and avocado. They’re big on eggs (as with coffee and atmosphere, an Australian influence is apparent) – baked eggs in a little skillet with a sprinkling of smoked paprika is a popular dish. Lots of vegetarian options, and some just-eat-menow sweets – salted caramel and peanut butter cookies, courgette, banana and coconut cake – add to the considerable appeal. + Coffee and baked eggs, Melbournestyle - Hard to get a seat at busy times

Penny Black 721–723 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: D1, 53) 0141 342 4375, pennyblackglasgow.com | £7 (lunch)

The white subway tiles behind the counter and the materials, from stained wooden to shiny red metal chairs, lend this café a bohemian feel. Alongside an artistic array of cards, there’s a small but perfectly formed selection of homemade sandwiches such as mozzarella, sun-dried tomato and homemade pesto, as well as really good soup – the Thai green curry with lentil is warm with gentle heat and richly textured. The attention to detail continues in their coffee and local tea supplied by the Wee Tea Company. Cakes may threaten to underwhelm, with the exception of the cheesecake, which they make themselves. Because it’s close to the Botanics, it’s kid-friendly, and you might have to snake your way between buggies to find a seat. But friendly staff, who clearly take pride in what they do, help to make this café more than an addon to somewhere you can buy stamps. + Homemade soup good enough to write home about - Cakes could be better

Ollie’s 122 Nithsdale Road, Southside See Bistros & Brasseries

Peña 5 Eton Lane, West End See Cafés: Wee Places

Once Upon a Tart 45 King Street, Merchant City (Map 7: B3, 38) 0141 552 0305, onceuponatart. co.uk | £6 (set lunch)

The whimsical madness of Once Upon A Tart might not be for everyone, but it’s certainly something to behold, as you walk into an onslaught of pink and black and fairytale-meets-heavy metal. It’s a kitchen and bakehouse with the latter at the fore – cakestands rising from the counter with all manner of sugary joy. Slabs of red velvet and Victoria sponge are moist and decadent, brownies are brightened up by fresh berries, and apple pie is pleasingly light and crisp. The savouries are straightforward, principally of the sandwich/ciabatta/ toasted/untoasted ilk, and the afternoon tea (no licence, but BYOB) is worth a look. Mind you, even at lunchtime, the temptation of griddled pancakes and bacon with maple syrup might be too much. The sweetest teeth are the happiest ones here. + One of a kind décor . . . - . . . but sometimes a bit chaotic

Papercup Coffee Company 603 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: E1, 56) , papercupcoffeecompany. bigcartel.com | £9 (lunch)

One of the city’s handful of places with serious coffee credentials. There’s always a blend for the V60, another for the Aeropress, a regular espresso, as well as a cold brew (until it sells out, and it

The sleek Inovo Centre is almost unique in central Glasgow in that it doesn’t occupy a right-angled grid slot the way most other buildings do, and Piece’s ground floor corner unit therein is an absolute cracker. The sun shines over the Merchant City and comes through fulllength windows on two sides. Students, lecturers and office workers have all contributed to the café’s steadily rising tide of breakfast and lunch-hour custom, where the daily-changing range of small sandwiches (see Miller St) entice and delight – pulled pork has a proper kick to it, Vietnamese chicken is enlivened by crunchy carrot. After that, the Jaffa orange cake puts ten oranges into each bake, and one can genuinely taste shreds of citrus (not overly sweet) in each bite, and appreciate a cake that tastes grown up. + Location, location, location - Shared seats at tables of 8 isn’t for everyone

NEW Prep Fitness Kitchen 22 Bath Street, City Centre (Map 6: E3, 43) 0141 332 3763, prepfitnesskitchen. co.uk | £10.50 (lunch) / £10.50 (dinner)

Genuinely exciting healthy food and juices, with a promising concept cooked up by two fitness fanatics, Prep’s mission is to provide healthy choices for those on the go – and having already adjusted opening times to provide for morning workouts, they clearly know their clientele. From menus that tell you the protein content of your meal to paleo favourites such as sweet potatoes and egg-white omelettes, there is a clear focus throughout on food as fuel. That said, one of the nicest things about Prep Kitchen is that it isn’t elitist; not everyone eating here is a bodybuilder or athlete – even though they might be enjoying a fresh juice such as 50 Shades of Green with avocado, kale, spinach, apple and ginger. For a substantial meal, tuck into champion choices such as smashed avocado and poached eggs on sourdough and protein pancakes for the indulgent side of healthy eating. + Appealing menus for both the healthconscious and the less bothered - Slightly confusing times for hot meals

Glasgow’s city centre. Pop in for an afternoon treat that is a million miles from the chains’ offerings that dominate the surrounding area – this is the territory of Instagram-perfect flat whites in vintage ceramics and homemade fig rolls oozing fruit. The all-vegetarian menu boasts seasonal salads such as green lentil, fig and wild rice or ginger and coconut vegan slaw, sold by the scoop at a wallet-friendly £2.50. The hot specials at just a quid more include bulgur cake with spiced cauliflower and buttery leeks – wholesome without ever descending into stodge. With the chance to pick up an independent zine and a dozen free-range eggs on the way out, there’s nowhere quite like the Project Café in town. + Imaginative home-cooking at incredible prices - Service can be a wee bit slow

NEW Rawlings Love to Eat 581–583 Mosspark Boulevard (Map 9B: A1, off) 0141 810 1298, rawlingslovetoeat.co.uk | Closed Mon | £6.50 (set lunch) / £10 (dinner)

Rawlings is a friendly, family-run affair with lots to offer. On one side of the space is a café with high-backed tweed banquettes where you can happily while a way a morning or afternoon with a coffee and a slice of tablet cheesecake. On the other side is a larger restaurant serving omelettes, poached eggs and smoked salmon for breakfast, as well as salads, sandwiches and burgers at lunchtime. On the street-food menu expect guilty pleasures such as poutineesque ‘disco fries’ piled with pulled pork, cheddar cheese, chipotle sauce and peppers. Smaller plates include haggis bon-bons served with whisky sauce, tempura seafood and wasabi mayo, or ground chicken lettuce wraps with sesame seeds, micro-herbs and a hint of lemongrass. Staff are both personable and hospitable – making that morning breakfast roll, late afternoon tea, or early evening dinner that little bit special. + Good spot to eat at most times of the day - You’ll be hard-pressed to manage any cake

NEW Primal Roast Piece 1056 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 37) 0141 221 7975, pieceglasgow. com | £6.70 (set lunch)

Piece’s original shop has both been an early part of the Finnieston renaissance and raised the bar for sandwich sellers city-wide. All meat is roasted in-house, sauces are homemade, cakes, too (they’ve recently moved all such prep to a standalone unit in Ibrox, freeing things up here). Baguettes are the most popular breadstuff but one can also opt for ciabatta, bloomer or a carb-free salad version of their creations, such as the Pastrami Special (with gouda, pickles, slaw and sweet chilli mayo) or the Smackdown (horseradish mayo and smoked, peppered mackerel with beetroot and leaves). Anything with the salt beef or hot smoked salmon is a deliciously safe bet, too. Flavours contrast and complement, and staff make you feel that they genuinely care about you and your lunch. Takeaways are big here but sitting in is a most pleasant experience, with ceramic white tiles, crisp lines and a chatty, artisan bonhomie. + Makes sandwiches exciting - Wee bit cold near the door

Piece @ Inovo 200 Albion Street, Merchant City (Map 7: C1, 14) 0141 552 7128, pieceglasgow. com | Closed Sat/Sun | £5.50 (£4.50 takeaway) (set lunch)

278 St Vincent Street, City Centre (Map 6: B3, 60) 0141 222 2750, primalroast. com | £7 (lunch)

Primal Roast is a bright and vigorous addition to Glasgow’s new wave of cafes that focus on better coffee and healthier eating. The requisite single-origin beans and arsenal of drip filters are on show (with Japanese syphon brews on the ‘to do’ list as well), as well as regular stuff from Glasgow’s Dear Green roasters. A stripped back menu offers appetising choices like a breakfast burrito with bacon and pico de gallo, while the lunchtime ‘buddha bowl’ steams rice and tops it with sweet and smoky chilli beef, or some other rotating and impressively made treat. Stepping off St Vincent Street and down the stairs to this basement spot at first feels like most other quick lunchtime takeaway places in the area (albeit with more quirk and caffeine), but it’s actually got a cavernous rear that’s equally suited to business lunches or leisurely afternoons. + Serious coffee without being too serious - Can be a bit cold

The Project Cafe 134 Renfrew Street, City Centre (Map 6: D2, 21) 0141 332 9520, theprojectcafe. com | Closed Mon | £6 (set lunch)

From the team behind Southside food co-op Locavore, the Project Café brings a village community vibe to middle of

TIPLIST FOR A GOOD LUNCH DEAL • Black Dove Lively bistro in the heart of Shawlands serving impressive food of exceptional quality. 130 • Cail Bruich Top Glasgow dining experience, with passion, invention and seasonality on their set-lunch menu. 166 • Chop Chop A quirky take on the Chinese dining experience in the city centre that offers unmissable lunchtime value. 144 • Ian Brown Food and Drink Casual little neighbourhood place – with the cooking of a true destination restaurant. 169 • 111 by Nico High-end dining in the suburbs – exquisite presentation, inspired food parings and incredible value. 133 • Red Onion Committed to local produce and catering for speciﬁc dietary needs as well as lunchtime bargain hunters. 133

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TABLE Talk

JIM HAMILTON ON CHEESE, CUTLERY AND QUESTIONING CHEFS One of the first things we started designing were bars. Back in the day – around 25 years ago – there was a certain self-centred quality to it because we were trying to create places we ourselves would like. We’ve been lucky enough to work on spaces not just in Scotland but all over the world. I just like to try things out. We worked on the Royal Hotel in Copenhagen a few years ago and we had a meal at the top with incredible views out to the city. Every course came out with different cutlery. The food was brilliant, but it was the theatre of it that made the experience so special. Working on Forgan’s restaurant in St Andrews was illuminating. Creating a venue to suit all kinds of people was important, so we made a map of the world on one wall where people could come and put a pin in with their name to show where they were from. It was very low-tech; rather than an online social network, this was a way for people to connect in real life. From a design side, there can be a fear that if you’re not brought up knowing food then you’ve got to believe everything a chef is telling you. But you’ve got to question it, get right in about it and ask why. Putting together the design, the theatre, the experience and the food, you almost become another figure in the kitchen adding something to the mix. Though we’re more like the seasoning than the big cheese. ■ Jim Hamilton is creative director at Graven Images design consultancy. graven.co.uk

The Rio Café

NEW Seb & Mili

Smile Café

27 Hyndland Street, West End (Map 9A: A3, 6) 0141 334 9909 | £7 (set lunch) / £10 (dinner)

1122 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 26) 0141 339 6276, sebandmili.com | £8 (lunch)

102 Queen Margaret Drive, West End See Cafés: Wee Places

The Rio Café falls into that slim and select category of diners that both serve breakfast and stay open late, meaning that their extensive menu incorporates everything from pancakes and eggs, sharing platters and sandwiches, to meatballs and burgers. The sweet potato, feta and pumpkin seed salad makes for a light and refreshing healthy option, or if you are hankering for something a little more homely and calorific then the macaroni cheese is the perfect antidote to a chilly Glasgow evening. Aside from the food, the café’s cultural contribution to the community on this Partick–Hyndland border is commendable, with a wide range of well-attended events including a poetry night, a pub quiz, an open mic, and a jazz night taking place at various points throughout each month. Recently under new management, it doesn’t look like their winning formula is set to change. + Packed programme of events - Service can be slow at busy times

Seb & Mili have left the city centre and gone west, to join the formidable ranks of Finnieston’s restaurant/bar stretch. Thankfully their artisan breads and cakes have not suffered on the journey. A wall of delights greets you as you enter: pretzel loafs and French baguettes, Nutella croissants and salted caramel doughnuts, all baked in-house every day. Soups and sandwiches are lovingly put together, with proper quality ingredients, so Cullen skink is creamy and decadent, pastrami is smoky and chewy, greens are bright and vibrant. With high seating and ledges not much wider than a MacBook Air, this is perhaps not a place to go to get work done. But it’s certainly a place to which one can go for a top-drawer farinaceous fix. + Fantastic bread - Stylish seating rather forsakes the comfort element

Riverhill Coffee Bar 24 Gordon Street, City Centre See Cafés: Wee Places

Riverside Café Riverside Museum, 100 Pointhouse Place, West End See Arts Venues

Roast 1299 Argyle Street, West End See Cafés: Wee Places

NEW Roaster’s Deli Partick Subway Station, West End (Map 9A: A3, off) 0141 230 9471, roastersdeli. com | £7 (lunch) / £7 (dinner)

A plucky new offshoot of the TriBeCa operation, snuggled into the glass façade of Partick Subway, Roaster’s is ideally placed to lure commuters, locals and shoppers to a fun reimagining of the NYC diner experience. No bright vinyl booths here, just shoogly tables and wooden chairs, but the execution of hearty American classics is wholly authentic. The devil is in the detail: proper burger buns locally baked to Roaster’s own recipe; homemade pulled pork; 10-hour slow-cooked beef; and a signature smoked pastrami worthy of the best New York delis (it takes three weeks to prepare). Blue moon burger has a thick, perfectly seasoned steak patty lined with wilted spinach and topped with blue cheese, bacon and sweet caramelised onions, while beef dip sandwich comes on a long brioche (meat juice-dipped) bun, dripping with onions cheese and mustard. The open kitchen also does specialist breakfasts like brioche French toast, omelettes, a vast array of buttermilk pancakes, plus poutine – a Canadian speciality of cheesy chips smothered in gravy that no selfrespecting Glaswegian could spurn. A second branch was due to open at 192 St Vincent Street in April as the guide went to press. + Authentic New York breakfasts worth missing the train for - Compact and bijou

Roots and Fruits 455–457 Great Western Road, West End See Cafés: Wee Places

Roscoe’s Deli Bar 23 Clarence Drive, West End See Cafés: Wee Places

St Mungo Museum Café 2 Castle Street, East End See Arts Venues

Siempre Bicycle Café 162 Dumbarton Road, West End (Map 9A: B3, 10) 0141 334 2385, siemprebicyclecafe.com | £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

For a café, Siempre is properly chilled out, and spacious – rare qualities among Glasgow’s café scene. The striking purple walls, covered in cycling memorabilia and merchandise, set it apart, too. The crowd is a pretty even spread of cyclists, mothers, students and everyone in between. That communal sense permeates, from the reconditioned wooden furniture, to the event nights (bike maintenance, cheese and wine, hip-hop), to the garden that was made fit-for-purpose by volunteering regulars. In the summer, with a beer or a glass of wine, that garden is a delightful spot. Food sits in brunch/lunch middle ground – hearty but healthy sandwiches such as the Prawnery (rye, prawns, avocado) or a roast chicken banh mi, with a small range of salads. Benedicts are popular, and even the stuff that could get stodgy, such as the Siempre Croque (French toast with three cheeses and bacon), is neither overly rich nor laden. + A café with genuine character - All the salads are a bit samey

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NEW Singl-end

265 Renfrew Street, City Centre (Map 6: A1, 2) 0141 353 1277, singl-end.co.uk | £9 (lunch)

Nestled in a Garnethill basement, Singl-end is enjoying a renaissance. Re-opening in late 2015, this spacious café and bakehouse is open daily for breakfasts, soups, and sandwiches. Glass-topped tables are decorated with postcards, stamps, and polaroids, evoking family histories and holiday memories. From the Pagliocca family who also own the Butterfly and the Pig brand, Singl-end is similarly comfortable but certainly more continental. While portions are large, the larder is influenced by healthy living trends, with plenty of vegan and gluten-free choices – good news because, with a bakery on site, bread is central to most meals. All-day breakfasts include meaty, veggie, and vegan, while spicy baked eggs with home-baked beans and fennel sausages are a zingy alternative to traditional brunch. From the sandwich menu, puy lentils, cherries and gorgonzola are loaded onto sourdough, in a rich and earthy mixture. With a topping of poached quails’ eggs, Singl-end transforms this simple dish from rustic to refined. + Care and attention to food and surroundings - Tricky to find for newbies

NEW Smile Café Central 121 Douglas Street, City Centre (Map 6: C2, 16) 0141 387 8184 | Closed Sat/Sun | £8.50 (lunch)

Smile Café’s second location is much more spacious than its West End counterpart, with south-facing corner windows filling the attractive, originally featured space with light as well as displaying the bustle passing by. Living up to its great reputation as a stalwart paninoteca, 20 different sandwich options are available on focaccia or ciabatta, as well as salads, soup and pizza options. Asiago, mozzarella and pecorino feature heavily across the menu, along with pancetta, parma ham and salami. There are a number of veggie options, too, such as grilled aubergine, roasted pepper and taleggio on a chewy ciabatta. Coffee is from Kimbo, and is served from the finest Florentine espresso machine. Sweet treats are deliciously Italian, too – with almond and chocolate cakes or cannoli stuffed with lemon, chocolate or pistachio. Shelves are packed with colourful imported items such as biscotti, polenta, pasta and flour should you wish to take home a taste of Italy. + Authentic Italian food and service - Makes you wish you were in Italy

Social Bite • 5 Bothwell Street, City Centre (Map 6: D4) 0141 248 5388 | Closed Sat/Sun | £4.95 (set lunch) • 103 St Vincent Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 77) 0141 237 7880, social-bite. co.uk | Closed Sat/Sun | £4.95 (set lunch)

This canny social business scored a coup by getting George Clooney to publicise their Edinburgh branch – his grinning mug adorns the wall of this small café with a few tables and stools and a thriving takeaway trade. All the profits go to good causes and one in four of the staff were formerly homeless. The food is saintly too, designed by Michelin Star chef Mike Mathieson to compete with the upmarket chains and with an NHS Healthy Living Award – satisfying soups, posh pot noodles and sandwiches, wraps and salads are the staples. Hot meals include a filling mackerel salad lightly flavoured with honey and mustard and warmly spicy Moroccan meatballs, and there are cakes and pastries made on the premises. Meal deals are good value but if you want to spend more, leave cash for someone in need to have a meal or drink on you under their suspended items scheme – around a quarter of customers do. + The warm feeling of supporting a good cause - Can get mobbed with takeaway trade

Sonny & Vito’s 52 Park Road, West End (Map 9A: F2, 79) 0141 357 0640 | £8 (lunch)

It’s no accident that this café-deli maintains dedicated patrons despite the wealth of choice nearby and, by serving sandwiches, soup and tarts for nearly ten years, it makes most others look like newcomers. Despite the name, the Italian influence is (purposefully) only obvious in the deli, while in terms of the menu, the emphasis is on quality. Soup and a sandwich, the price of which hasn’t changed in ten years, will warm on the wettest day. More substantial is the choice of homemade tarts served with new potatoes and a lively salad. Canteenstyle seating at long tables – a response to its popularity – might elsewhere inhibit cosy conversation, but not here. The choice of indulgent cakes, like banana, date and walnut, will delight those with

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a sweet tooth, as should the cappuccinos, which come with slivers of dark chocolate that melt into heavenly gooeyness at the bottom of the cup. + Melted chocolate in the cappuccino - Elbow to elbow eating

Spitfire Espresso 127 Candleriggs, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 15) 07578 250105, spitfireespresso. com | £7.50 (lunch)

Spitfire Espresso occupies a prime spot on the corner of Ingram Street and Candleriggs. Its huge windows offer a 180-degree vista onto an unfamiliar Glasgow – the Ramshorn Theatre, modern flats, civic buildings and giant murals. Inside is reminiscent of an American diner, with bright blue walls and upbeat classics playing. The menu is kept simple with a total of ten choices – six egg dishes and four sandwiches, plus soup. The thematically named Vought Kingfisher is a poached egg and smoked salmon bagel, straightforward but satisfying. Spitfire’s tomato soup is juicy and textured, enriched with paprika, while the turkey and smoked brie sandwich is dressed with their homemade basil pesto – subtle and fresh, with depth from the smoked cheese. All cakes are made on site, and the Rocky Road is quite divine. + Great range of delicious cakes - Building extensions can be noisy

Tantrum Doughnuts: a newcomer dishing up the treat with the hole in the middle

become ever-present, but typically two or three change every week – frequent visits are therefore highly advisable. + Doughnuts for Glasgow to get excited about - A wee bit off the beaten track

St Louis Café Bar 734 Dumbarton Road, West End

Tapa Bakehouse

See Round the World

21 Whitehill Street, Dennistoun, East End (Map 7: D1, off) 0141 554 9981, tapabakehouse.com | £6.95 (set lunch)

NEW Stan’s Studio 43 Alexandra Park Street, East End (Map 7: D1, off) 0141 258 2930, stans-studio. com | Closed Sun–Tue | £6 (lunch)

Local artist and musician Sarah J Stanley has turned the front of her Dennistoun studio into a hip little space for coffees, cakes, soups and toasties. It’s both artsy and artisan – abstract sketches on the wall, scribbles on tied-up brown paper packaging telling customers about ‘volos’ (vegan rolos), or gluten-free Oreo & cashew chocolate bars. Cakes such as sesame salted caramel shortbread, or milky bar and lime sponge, further back up the style with substance. Drip coffee is made with beans from Edinburgh roaster Mr Eion, and is typically accompanied with some pleasant conversation with the artist herself. Stan’s Studio is also Glasgow’s only ‘Pay What You Want’ café, with an egalitarian understanding that the good times will cover the bad. At Stan’s, everything is in its right place. + The ethos - Very limited for savoury options See the Table Talk feature on p122 for more about artist Sarah Stanley

NEW Tantrum Doughnuts 35 Old Dumbarton Road, West End (Map 9B: C1, 9) 0141 339 0006, tantrumdoughnuts.com | Closed Mon | £5 (lunch)

From the Fat Duck to Ox & Finch to a slim unit tucked away on Old Dumbarton Road. Absolutely the right career path for Iain Baillie, whose Tantrum Doughnuts has burst onto Glasgow’s food scene, with warmth and enthusiasm emanating from customers and staff in equal measure. It’s a simple setup: coffee, milkshakes, doughnuts. And he’s learnt a thing or two working in such heavyweight eateries. Brioche pastry is marvellously light and tasty, flavours are exciting, too – think pistachio and hibiscus, or Mexican hot chocolate. But the real clincher is the textured toppings, so that the ‘blueberry cheese crumble’ has a crunchy biscuit crust, while a crème brûlée variant yields on the first bite with the same delightful cracking of caramelized sugar as the classic French dessert. Those two have

There are a handful of places around Duke St that the locals are fiercely proud of, and this is one of them. It’s a fully-fledged, organic-certified bakery with some seats at the front, and it’s here that all the bread for Tapa’s other three sites is baked. But this is the only Tapa that’s completely vegetarian, and caters so thoroughly to vegans and coeliacs. Croissants and pain au chocolats are long-standing favourites (get them before they sell out), while savoury options skip all over the globe – tortillas and burritos, samosas, hummus and roasted veg sandwiches, a Scottish salad of barley and potatoes, or flaky, hearty veggie sausage rolls. Ground almond is used in a gluten- and wheat-free chocolate cake that’s moist and bitter. Tapa’s coffee also has a bit of a following. For these reasons customers from far further afield than the East End come to give Tapa their patronage. + Veggie and organic – tasty, too - Seats beside the door feel the breeze

Tapa Coffeehouse 721 Pollokshaws Road, Southside (Map 8: C3, 11) 0141 423 9494, tapabakehouse. com | £7.85 (soup/sandwich) (set lunch)

Just a few blocks from Victoria Park, Tapa’s branch in Shawlands is a welcome stop-off point for parents with kids as well as those who appreciate good coffee and aren’t afraid of a tempting cake counter. With a rotating special, such as Bombay potato and lentil, served with generous slabs of home-baked Tapa brown bread (the original Dennistoun spot is an organic bakery), and café staples done really well, such as a choice of homemade soup, this café is worth a visit even if you’re not in the neighbourhood. It can get busy at weekends due to its size but there’s always the option of ordering sandwiches or cake to go – open the container of lemon meringue pie, with its toasted snowy peaks and gooey centre, and make the ducks at the nearby pond jealous. Tapa added a third branch in the West End at Kelvinbridge in early 2016. + Unpretentious baking and uplifting coffee - Busy at lunchtimes and weekends

Tchai-Ovna House of Tea 42 Otago Lane, West End (Map 9A: F2, 69) 0141 357 4524, tchaiovna.com | £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

Any film crew needing an early 1970s hangout could do worse than check out Tchai-Ovna for a readymade set. It’s the embodiment of a laid-back hippie den. With its stone floors, colourful Eastern drapes, scattered cushions, shoogly tables and Turkish lamps, it has ‘chill out’ written all over it. Then there’s the tea – a breathtaking profusion taking up most of the menu with black teas, green teas, spiced teas, medicinal teas and fermented teas from across the globe. Nepalese gold is noteworthy – light and tangy with a mild calming warmth. Food includes snacks – dolmades, baba ganoush, cheeses and sandwiches – while the mains has falafel, red dhal, and a mixed platter of Middle Eastern delights. Chipotle chilli is buzzing with smoky roasted coconut and bright roast veg, served in a large portion with pitta. A small stage plays host to songwriters, poets and storytellers and a cosy candlelit charm descends on performance evenings. + A rare alcohol-free environment - No table service – remember to order at kitchen

The Tea Room at the Botanics Botanic Gardens, 730 Great Western Road, West End See Arts Venues

✱ The Tearooms @ The Butterfly and the Pig 151 Bath Street, City Centre (Map 6: D2, 30) 0141 243 2459, thebutterflyandthepig.com/thetearooms | £7.95 (set lunch) / £12.50 (set dinner)

Visiting the Tearooms is like taking a trip back in time to your granny’s holiday cottage in the Highlands. A cabinet of curiosities, the space is spread over three floors like a layer cake, with teacups, saucers, floral plates and twee bric-à-brac adorning the tables, walls and staircases. Like the décor, the food riffs confidently on retro classics – from breakfasts such as kippers on toast, to an afternoon tea menu brimming with both traditional and ‘special sanners’ options, as well as quiche and ploughman’s lunch. In the early evening, try the high tea menu – fish and chips served with mushy peas and chips, gammon steak and fried egg, or sea bass with creamy mash. There’s no shortage of teas either, as well as house-made bakes – like a

dense and decadent coffee and hazelnut number and a moist and spongy orange and almond cake. + The menu offers many Proustian moments - Finding room for a delicious cake afterwards

Tibo 443 Duke Street, Dennistoun, East End See Bistros & Brasseries

Tramway Café Bar 25 Albert Drive, Southside See Arts Venues

TriBeCa 102 Dumbarton Road, West End See Round the World

NEW Where the Monkey Sleeps 340 Argyle Street, City Centre (Map 6: C5, 88) 0141 204 5260, monkeysleeps.com | Closed Sat/Sun | £4.50 / £5.50 (set lunch)

The second venue from Where The Monkey Sleeps, with high ceilings, large windows, and mottled walls, creates a vibe that is somewhere between digital startup and artist’s loft. Books are splayed across a trestle table for customers to borrow, and walls are decorated with original paintings from artists at Glasgow City Mission – who the café donates food and funds to on a regular basis. The Monkey offers plussize paninis, bagels, and salads, and while meat is celebrated, they please vegetarians, too – the Woman from Iran is a lighter panini than its male counterpart, replacing roast chicken with chargrilled aubergine, alongside courgettes, peppers, smoked cheese and fiery fresh chillis. The Serious Operation bagel stacks crisp smoky bacon between chicken, a poached egg and caesar-dressed salad. A meal here is an act of indulgence and, with cakes like honeycomb caramel shortcake, there’s no point kidding yourself: Go big or go home. + Bright and spacious - Not good for a diet

Where the Monkey Sleeps 182 West Regent Street, City Centre (Map 6: C3, 32) 0141 226 3406, monkeysleeps.com | Closed Sat/Sun | £4.50 / £5 (set lunch)

The worst kept secret of Glasgow’s urban professionals, Where The Monkey Sleeps has built its reputation on sandwich fillings that are original yet reliable. Lunchtime sees constant queues for The List Eating & Drinking Guide 141

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takeaway and table service, enjoying the Monkey’s macho air, with its metalinfluenced typeface, and aggressive sounding sandwiches – Beefcake, Mr Boland’s Cutlass, Iron Monger – but this posturing is softened by relaxed service and perfectly poached eggs. Paninis, bagels, salads, and beans feature (be warned: all the beans are nuclear), with sandwich fillings lovingly created, with combinations that simply don’t exist anywhere else. The Meathammer bagel combines haggis, chorizo, red onion marmalade and cheddar, spicy, salty and sweet in equal measure. The Full Caesar (salad) is piled high with the usual ingredients, plus chicken, bacon and a poached egg. With its subversive charm, lunch at the Monkey feels pleasingly rebellious. + Imaginative combinations - Not a light bite in sight

CAFES: THE WEE PLACES You might not get a seat in many of the establishments in this section but that doesn’t mean you won’t be well fed. From sandwich bars and delis to static vans, neighbourhood bakeries and espresso stops, the one thing that unites these varied places, beyond good food and drink, is that they have little or no seating. Reviewers: Jennifer Armitage, Robbie Armstrong, Laura Campbell, David Kirkwood, Andrea Mullaney, Ellen Renton

The Willow Tea Rooms • 97 Buchanan Street, City Centre • 217 Sauchiehall Street See Arts Venues

bakery47

The Wilson Street Pantry

Run by husband-and-wife duo Sam and Anna, bakery47 has fast built a reputation for supplying some of the city’s finest artisan cakes, bakes, and breads from their all-purpose Govanhill location. There’s much to feed the eyes as well as the stomach, with plants and cacti flourishing alongside handcrafted lampshades and locally made curios. Arrive early to see morning rays stream through great glass windows, illuminating freshly baked sourdough loafs, peanut-butter brownies, and jamaretti biscuits. At the weekend, pop-up baristas are on hand to brew up the perfect friend for your cinnamon porridge, honey buttered toast or lemon and blueberry polenta cake. + Truly excellent bakes - Get down early as they sell out fast

6 Wilson Street, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 20) 0141 552 0606 | £10 (lunch)

All monochrome sleekness and peoplewatching feature windows, the Wilson Street Pantry brings an elegant injection of NYC brunch chic to Merchant City. The concise menu showcases midday classics such as eggs royale with delicately smoked salmon and a foamlight hollandaise, alongside smart twists on 21st-century staples such as avo on toast, pepped up with the addition of lemon oil and smoked salt. Sandwiches are more standard fare but elevated by high-quality ingredients – you’ll find home-baked ham and George Mewes cheddar in your cheese toastie, with an allotment’s-worth of well-dressed salad on the side. Finish up with a strong flat white (in a beautiful charcoal clay cup – attention to detail here is everything) and a floral slice of bergamot and honey cake, or throw your Manolo Blahniks to the wind and order that second mimosa cocktail. + Exemplary eggs royale - Daytime haunt only

TIPLIST FOR SNACKS ON THE GO • Devils Deli Compact and laid-back takeaway specialist in the West End, delivering some excellent sandwiches. 142 • Great Western Sandwich Co Café and takeaway that elevates the humble sandwich, using fresh local produce. 137 • Piece Gourmet sandwichmongers do classy pieces made with love, care and know-how, from their three outlets. 139, 142 • Roast Purveyor of hearty roasts and sandwiches from a café-takeaway near Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum. 143 • Smile Café Authentic Italian savouries and cakes from the original close to the Botanics or recent city centre café. 140, 144 • Where the Monkey Sleeps Mighty meaty sandwiches from the original rocking basement or the bigger second branch. 141

76 Victoria Road (Map 8: D1, off) 0141 237 9470, bakery47.com | Mon–Wed takeaway only | £8 (lunch)

NEW Brew Box Coffee Company The Tardis, Wilson Street, Merchant City (Map 7: B2, 9) | Closed Sun | £5 (lunch)

There are lots of cool things about Brew Box Coffee, starting with an address beginning ‘The Tardis, Wilson St . . .’. From this old police box in the Merchant City, owner Laura Cameron offers lunchtime workers and passersby a hot option (always vegan) and a choice of two sandwiches (one always veggie). Everything feels healthy, from a chickpea and wholewheat noodle soup with Persian herbs, to a growling laksa ‘pot noodle’ packed with beansprouts, coriander and black sesame seeds. It’s simple, lovely stuff. The menu changes every three days and comes full circle every four weeks. Brew Box make a real effort to keep packaging and waste to a minimum, and to engage their regulars, too, with a loyalty app that updates with the new menu, and snazzily accrues rewards. + Like the hashtag says – small place, big taste - So small that it’s hard to cater for dietary needs

Cherry and Heather Fine Foods 7 North Gower Street, Southside (Map 8: C1, off) 0141 427 0272, cherryandheather.co.uk | Closed Sat/ Sun | £8 (lunch)

For ten years, Cherry and Heather have been providing their enticing range of fresh, inventive and affordable food to an appreciative Cessnock crowd – who are somewhat starved of café options of this quality. The menu bristles with Asian dishes, super soups, deli pasta dishes, gourmet sandwiches – such as

the signature meatballs with Indonesian peanut sauce – and lots of sweet treats including gluten-free options. The small dining space with four tables manages to be a bright, comfortable spot for enjoying the high-standard food on offer, plus there’s good coffee and a great selection of teas available as well. A splendid spot in a neighbourhood scarce on cafés, whether for takeaway, relaxing or working – and worth seeking out if you are in touching or trekking distance. + High-quality food - Closed weekends

Coffee, Chocolate and Tea 944 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: E3, 43) 0141 204 3161 | Closed Sun | £7 (lunch)

In a place with 40 teas to choose from, a half-dozen single origin coffees, and enough sugary stuff to keep the sweetest of teeth placated, the biggest problem here is making a decision. You’re greeted by a fandangled roaster which is far from ornamental – as coffee is roasted in-house each week. Flat whites are not only delicious, but also adorned with top-notch latté art, while filter options are many, from the simple but effective Aeropress to the showstopping siphon brewer. The tea menu spans continents with everything from oolong to rooibos and many strange and intriguing brews in between. Soups and sandwiches also deliver, but don’t miss out on the mango and pistachio cake or gluten-free brownie – or try one of their chilli and lime truffles or salted caramel cups on your way out the door. + Dizzying array of coffee and tea - Not many seats

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Cottonrake

497 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: F2, 62) 07910 282040, cottonrake.com | £7 (lunch)

Everything in this artisan bakery brings happiness. Their bread is crisp and flavoursome just on its own, and put to delightful use in gourmet sandwiches – a tomato relish contrasts marvelously with crumbly cubes of feta, while glossy, sharp tarragon mayo takes their BLT to a new level. Shoulder of pork and Stornoway black pudding pop up in sausage rolls, and their ham and cheese croissant is perhaps the best in town. Any wonder since opening in 2013 there’s been a lunchtime queue going out the door (when the eight seats are valued like prime real estate). Along with the bread, it’s the cakes that are raved about – tarts of chocolate or roasted rhubarb, blueberry frangipanes and the like – of the same high standard as everything else baker Stefan Spicknell takes out his oven. Plans are afoot for a second, bigger space in 2016 bringing even more of their operation (roasting, etc) in-house. + The smell of the bread - So few seats – it would be less cruel to have none

Crêpe à Croissant 1 Ashley Street, West End (Map 9B: G1, 49) 07720 330 471, crepe.org.uk | Closed Sun | £7 (lunch) / £7 (dinner)

If you want to talk about longevity on the Glasgow dining scene then look no further than Crêpe à Croissant. Since 1993 the static van just off Woodlands Road has endured all the weather that Glasgow can throw at it – and there’s been some mighty storms in the last two decades around here. But the van abides, dishing out soups, salads, sandwiches, wraps, and of course croissants, but it’s the crêpes – made fresh on specially imported pans and by well-trained staff – which top the bill. Whether you’re

after a meaty, veggie or sweet versions, there’s plenty of choice, and as long as the weather’s not crazy bad, the van is flipping late enough to catch the returning clubbers on weekends. + Open until 4am weekends - Might not open if very stormy or snowy

Devils Deli 5 Hyndland Street, West End (Map 9A: A3, 7) 0141 334 8243 | £7 (lunch)

The slow pace in this super laid-back gourmet sandwich shop nestled in Glasgow’s Partick–Hyndland border doesn’t put off customers. When the food does arrive it’s easy to see why. Hell’s belly – one of six sandwiches on the menu – is a sweet and salty marvel with a plum and bacon jam cutting through melted cheddar and smoky chicken on a toasted brioche bun. It’s up there with the best sarnies around – and that says a lot in these parts. For those who have worked their way through the sandwich menu, the specials board offers variety, while breakfast is served all day at weekends. Whether you take a seat in their decent-sized front of shop with a soup and salad combo, or dart off with a hot sandwich and Dear Green coffee to hand, Devils Deli is worth making time for. + Home-smoked meats - Occasionally long queues

Grays Kitchen 305 Crow Road, West End (Map 9A: A1, off) 0141 562 9493 | Closed Sun | £6 (lunch)

Tucked away in the far reaches of the West End, Grays sits unassumingly on Broomhill’s bosky Crow Road. An inviting window display begs entry into this charming delicatessen, where you’ll encounter a packed counter of salads, pâtés and pies. Paninis, toasties and soups are also available for take away, as are Scottish beers from Black Isle Brewery and Drygate, while a few shelves of white, red and sparkling wines are supplied by Bibendum. Outwith wine, there’s a real emphasis on Scottish produce – from a fine selection of Scottish cheeses such as Anster, Caboc, Strathdon blue and bonnet, to eggs from Ayrshire’s Corrie Mains and ice-cream from Colpi’s of Milngavie. Fresh coffee is supplied by local roaster Dear Green. + Array of Scottish produce - No seating

La Tea Doh 136 Nithsdale Road, Southside (Map 8: B2, 2) 0141 424 3224, lateadoh.co.uk | Closed Sun | £6 (lunch)

A petite but stacked-to-the-rafters neighbourhood deli, selling everything from Yorkshire pudding mix to Belgian wafers, La Tea Doh has improbably managed to squeeze in some seating for a limited but appealing dine-in menu. Coronation chicken comes on a squashily-fresh floured ciabatta with luminous, fruity sauce but is, rather like the deli, a bit on the small side and over too soon, as is the wee crisp garnish. Breakfast options are what this place is great for, with warm brioche piled with scrambled egg and cheese, hearty enough to set you up for most the day. Finish with a homemade honey and oat biscuit (stick-to-the-teeth sweet and gone in three bites) or cute mini marzipan fruits. La Tea Doh is exactly the sort of place you’d be happy to find on your street, handy for pop-in snacks and take-home groceries. + Shelves packed with foodie impulse purchases - No side salad or extras come with the sandwiches

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Laboratorio Espresso 93 West Nile Street, City Centre (Map 6: E3, 48) 0141 353 1111, laboratorioespresso.com | £6.50 (lunch)

This contemporary Milanese-style coffee bar has been a port of call for connoisseurs of fine coffee and Italianate treats since 2013. The trim glass façade reveals a small interior with only two tables and some barseating, given space with a lofty woodenslat roof and clean minimal design. Coffee rules supreme, with an a-frame board announcing rotating guest filters from the likes of Five Elephant and The Barn (Berlin), as well as a house espresso blend from English roasting stalwart Has Bean. Espresso and Aeropress are both delivered with scientific precision so expect velvetysmooth flat whites and well-balanced long blacks. Rustic Italian sandwiches from Eusebi Deli let quality ingredients sing, and there’s daily cakes and treats such as cannoli biscotti and affogato. Good for takeaway, and a great spot to sit and enjoy the city – if you can get a seat. + One of the city’s best coffee spots - Sandwiches and seats are limited

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My Home Bakery

59 Hyndland Street, West End (Map 9A: A3, 4) | Closed Sun/Mon | £3 (takeaway set lunch)

It is advisable to arrive at My Home Bakery on a very empty stomach, as the only possible natural reaction to the display of freshly baked goodies is an irresistible urge to eat everything in sight. Start your day with a pastry and a coffee from their revolutionary WiFi-operated machine, or pop in at lunch for a £3 soup and sandwich combo, with the possible addition of a cake for an extra pound – a reasonable and satisfying alternative to a supermarket meal deal. The staff are extremely generous with their time and are more than happy to help with the impossible task of choosing from the cake selection, highlights of which include the rich chocolate volcano and the delicately

sweet rhubarb and custard tart. + That homely freshly baked taste - Choosing between the cakes

Peña 5 Eton Lane, West End (Map 9A: E2, 68), penaglasgow.co.uk | Closed Sun | £4.50 (lunch)

It would be very easy to walk past Peña without realising what you have missed, although it would be a deep shame to do so, as the compact cabin-like café that sits tucked inconspicuously down Eton Lane is an unlikely yet charming coffee spot. For the most part Peña focus their considerable energies on two principal areas – coffee and toasties. The hot sandwich varieties range from the traditional such as the Big Cheese, with red onion added to the obvious main ingredient, to the slightly more sophisticated such as the Aubi One with feta, aubergine, coriander and lemon hummus, to the surprising with the Banana Man mixing bananas with peanut butter and nutella. If you like your cafés low key and quirky, with excellent coffee, then a visit to Peña is a must. + Offers something different - Not a very accessible building

Piece 100 Miller Street, Merchant City (Map 7: A2) 0141 248 1210, pieceglasgow.com | Sat/Sun | £4.50 (set lunch)

Piece’s city centre takeaway spot – no seats – has all the class and sandwich know-how of the West End original, with some canny details unique to this site. The blackboard displays most of the Piece gamut including classics such as the chicken ole (manchego, chorizo and salsa) and a vibrant, crunchy bahn mi. Alternatively, one can choose two ‘small pieces’ from an exciting, changing daily range – such as properly spicy pulled pork, nicely rugged beef and cambozola cheese. All the meats, sauces et al are prepared at Piece’s Ibrox kitchen and that

homemade freshness comes through, right down to the crunch of the coleslaw or the sweetness of the peppers. Two soups and a few cakes, including their insatiably popular brownie, are on the counter, too. + Brilliant service - Takeaway only

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Riverhill Coffee Bar

24 Gordon Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 98) 0141 204 4762, riverhillcafe.com/ coffee-bar | £Daily special c. £5 (hot dish or hot sandwich) (set lunch)

Just seconds from Central Station, Riverhill Coffee Bar is tiny but packed with delights. The exposed brick walls provide a backdrop for a counter that bursts with colour, where sweet treats are artfully presented, such as the rainbow teacake, multi-coloured sponges topped with skittles. In the Tuscan panzanella, spinach and tomatoes are tossed with crumbling croutons, slices of mozzarella, and infused with garlic and basil pesto. The Mexican-inspired chicken ciabatta mixes smoked cheese and chorizo with coriander – full bodied and fresh. Equally good for coffee and cake, the tahini brownie offers an umami edge to a traditionally indulgent sweet. At lunchtime there is a palpable buzz that makes the customers feel like a community, and with just ten covers inside you need to be sharp to nab one – but if you manage it the window seats offer high-density people watching. + The anticipation of standing in the queue - Only a lucky few sit

Roast 1299 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: C1, 11) 0141 334 1413, roastglasgow. com | £6.50 (lunch)

This small unobtrusive café has a niche of its own – the cold sandwiches and hot breakfasts are quick, filling takeaways, but the star attractions are the roasted hot meals and sliders. The pulled pork and brisket beef are slow-cooked and warming, with the piri-piri chicken and steak cooked to order, plus other daily specials featuring. The highlight is the tender roast cheesesteak, Philadelphiastyle, served in a crisp ciabatta, but if you can’t decide between the hot dishes then a sampler of three choices, coming in little brioche buns, is more than a satisfying compromise. It’s not perhaps the first choice of place to visit for vegetarians, but there is a tasty goat’s cheese, tomato, chilli chutney and roast peppers variant, too. As you’d imagine, trade is busiest at weekday lunchtimes and for weekend brunches, where the dozen or so seats soon fill up. + Satisfying sandwiches - Lunchtime rush can mean delays in getting your fill

Roots and Fruits 455–457 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: F2, 65) 0141 339 3077, rootsfruitsandflowers.com | £8.50 (lunch)

Roots and Fruits: healthy, hearty food at the deli-café at Kelvinbridge

✱ HITLIST

An institution for food lovers, families, and students alike, this deli-cum-café boasts a variety of dishes that reflect a strong commitment to cater for vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free diets. The counter is stocked with enough salads, soups and paninis to suit almost anyone. A Thai salmon fishcake is packed with flavour, while the Korean pork belly ciabatta is lifted by kimchi crackling and crunchy beansprouts. Leave room for one of the many sweet treats – a blueberry and almond tart is especially chewy and moreish. Glasgow-based Charlie Mills provides hand-roasted coffee, while the fridges are stocked with natural, additive-free soft drinks and fruit juices. Once you’ve finished eating, make sure to wander round the shelves and peruse

CAFES: WEE PLACES ✱ Cottonrake A West End classic pretty much as soon as it opened, with artisan-baked breads, tarts and sandwiches of striking quality. ✱ My Home Bakery In a small corner unit on Hyndland Street, My Home Bakery produces a mouthwatering selection of soups, sandwiches, pastries, cakes, and breads. ✱ Riverhill Coffee Bar A contemporary bar with a few seats, serving up delicious snacks, cakes and coffee. ✱ Smile Café Authentic Italian savouries and cakes in a teensy neighbourhood joint close to the Botanics. the selection of organic goods, from Ottolenghi-inspired spices to loaves from nearby Tapa. Pop next door to their adjoining greengrocer for all things fruit and veg. + Lots of options available for special dieters - Too much choice

Roscoe’s Deli Bar 23 Clarence Drive, West End (Map 9A: A1, off) 0141 334 2263 | £7 (lunch)

A quaint little place offering catering for special events and a modest range of Italian-inspired deli treats for those passing by or looking for a quick stopoff for coffee and cake. The tiny interior has a contemporary vintage feel with wooden surfaces and beautifully handdrawn boards making this a cosy place to revive. Pick and mix your own deli items to create a light lunch, or opt for one of Roscoe’s suggested salad or sandwiches offering classic Italian flavour combinations. Vegetarians are treated to an extensive menu of antipasti (peppadew peppers, grilled aubergine, herb-infused olives) while carnivores can sample fine cold meats including melt-in-the-mouth pastrami and prosciutto. Shelves are stocked with artisan breads, chutneys and other dry goods. + Informative and passionate staff - A bit cramped

Salt Delicatessen 23 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: B3, 22) 0141 258 7272, saltdeli.co.uk | Closed Sun | £6 (lunch)

Most customers will be in for a takeaway at this specialist deli squeezed in among Byres Road’s thriving café scene. But if you’re lucky enough to seize one of two tables then it’s worth sitting in to try some of their faintly Spanish-inspired deli offerings and inventive sandwich combos. Order tapas-style and your choices will arrive on a platter ideal for sharing – succulent peppered pork loin, fluffy egg tortilla and homemade The List Eating & Drinking Guide 143

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slaw come with a garnish of pea shoots that sets the whole thing off nicely. The mother-and-son team source most of their produce within Scotland, but you will find storecupboard items from further afield, too – they’ll even have freshly dug truffles shipped in for you on request. + Lovingly prepared treats - A bigger café branch calls

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Smile Café

102 Queen Margaret Drive, West End (Map 9A: D1, off) 07528 661275 | £9 (lunch)

A little bit of Italy in Glasgow – a very little bit, as there’s not much space in this small, friendly neighbourhood café run by two southern Italians and beloved by locals. Inside is crammed with imported products – almost everything they sell is from the old country as they specialise in authentic Italian cured meats and cheese along with specialist olive oils, pasta sauces and such, which are also for sale. Whether a breakfast toastie or croissant, or a lunchtime panini or salad, all the ingredients are noticeably fresh and good quality. Fillings vary but include a warm Ispani featuring intense pancetta, thick mozzarella and sundried tomatoes, or a simple Genova with cheese, tomatoes and basil pesto. Salads are filling and drizzled with balsamic vinegar, and homemade cakes and little flaky pastries, with great coffee, make for an indulgent finale. + Laid-back Italian charm - Space at a premium

Tantrum Doughnuts 35 Old Dumbarton Road, West End See Cafés

CHINESE Glasgow’s Chinese community is long established in the city and this is reflected in a range of restaurants whose quality surprises visitors and delights locals in equal measure. Whether classic Cantonese or spicy Szechuan, China’s traditional cuisine is all here. From the metropolitan chic of Lychee Oriental to the St George’s Cross trio offering authentic delights for enthusiasts and adventurers, there’s a style and setting to suit every taste and budget. Expect colour, complexity and wonderfully harmonious flavour. Reviewers: Tiff Griffin, Laura Muetzelfeldt

Amber Regent 50 West Regent Street, City Centre (Map 6: E3, 51) 0141 331 1655, amberregent. com | £9.50 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

While others do classics with a contemporary twist, the unique attraction at the long-established (1988) Amber Regent is the combination of regional Chinese cuisine and fine dining. Spotless linen-covered tables are lit by discreet table-lamps and dotted with perfectly folded napkins. Expect your kung po chicken to arrive on exquisite china, with a ginger and soy salmon fillet adorned with vegetables carved into flower petals, all with slick and accomplished service. Prawn dim sum melt away effortlessly while the crispy duck is intriguingly combined with rich oyster sauce and an

indulgent steamed scallop with garlic and soy sauce makes for a fittingly indulgent starter. This is, after all, a restaurant that’s hosted luminaries such as Mick Jagger over the years. Such vintage style may not suit all tastes these days, but with tables busy even in midweek it’s undeniably a popular restaurant. Longserving manageress Christina Wager is enthusiastic about plans to modernise the dining area in June 2016 while keeping the refinement their many regulars love. + Stylish dining - Some décor a little dated

NEW Asiama 185–189 St George’s Road, West End (Map 9A: H4, 88) 0141 332 8828 | Closed Fri | £17 (dinner)

Replacing the long-stading Asia Style in 2015, Asiama has many of the hallmarks of the former incumbent – basic décor that could be from a 1970s’ work canteen and an extensive MalaysianChinese menu (do make sure you ask for the ‘authentic’ one as well, it won’t necessarily be proffered). One big difference is the quality of the cooking. Asia Style had lost its lustre and punchy flavours in recent years, yet Asiama has certainly improved the food, while prices, though not cheap cheap, offer decent value given quality and size. Staff will recommend the curry laksa with good reason as the family-size bowl that appears, with a choice of noodles sitting in a bright, fresh, flavoursome broth, is a real winner. Elsewhere stir-fry mangetout and squid is deftly done, pork dim sum are enjoyable and Malaysian style beef curry is a nicely spiced, satisfying dish. + Better than the dying days of Asia Style - Who closes on a Friday?

Asian Gourmet 17 West Princes Street, West End (Map 9A: H4, 87) 0141 332 1639 | £12.50 (lunch) / £12.50 (dinner)

If walking down a dingy side street and then down some steep stairs doesn’t fill you with confidence, prepare to be won over at this Chinese restaurant. This might be a no-frills affair – red polka dot oilcloths sit alongside a splattering of red Chinese lanterns – but who cares when the food is this good? There’s an emphasis on Szechuan food, and dishes such as Szechuan-style double-cooked sliced pork are popular with all its customers. The regular contingent from Glasgow’s Chinese community always seem to order something more exciting than you’ve just ordered – though staff will happily recommend the Mongolian barbecue beef, braised sea bass, or fried jade tofu with spinach. Surprisingly, this place works as well for a first date or a family meal and, as soon as you taste the food, the lack of frills simply adds to the overall charm of the place. + Going in a group and tasting lots of dishes - Access is by stairs only

that’s packed with choice but slightly confusing for the casual diner. From traditional dishes such as minced pork and green beans, to old familiars like juicy roast duck with plum sauce, finding something tasty is straightforward. Juicy prawn satay skewers are rich but never overpowering and the lamb broth is full of deep, spicy flavour punctuated with crisp chunks of spring onion. + Warm and comforting lamb broth - Drab dumplings

Chop Chop 41–43 Mitchell Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 102) 0141 221 9799, chop-chop. co.uk | £5 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

When dining in Glasgow’s city centre, sitting indoors under a cherry tree in full blossom is really quite the experience. Okay, so the tree may be fake but the overall effect is pretty pleasant, and the food is very much the real deal at this Chinese restaurant (a younger sibling to the Edinburgh original) tucked up a side street off busy Argyle Street. Mix-andmatch Oriental tapas about covers it, and this DIY approach defines a meal under the branches in muted lilac lighting. The set-price banquet is the best way to sample the dishes on offer, such as delicate pork dumplings, tangy sweet and sour ribs and fragrant spring rolls. Best of all are the green beans and chilli that walk a high-wire flavour act between fiery and salty. Diners are instructed in how to mix up their own sauce which adds a fun element to an already enjoyable experience. + Best lunch deal in town - Piped pop diminishes dumpling digestion

Chow 98 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: C2, 27) 0141 334 9818, chowrestaurant.co.uk | £6.50 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

With something akin to a humble bow, Chow quietly takes its place amid the hubbub of Byres Road, like a lovingly worn family ornament. It has been a family affair since opening but after 15 years under the stewardship of the Chows it came under new management in October 2015. The regular menu offers a mix of classics and old favourites – spring rolls, prawn balls and pork aplenty in a variety of guises. The Szechuan duck is intense but the peppers linger just enough to make the next bite enticing. For those seeking a more authentic experience, the traditional Chinese menu will undoubtedly catch the eye – from intestines to beef flank and fried whole fish in chillis there’s no shortage of tempting dishes. From the small but never cramped dining area to the neat mezzanine that makes the best use possible of the compact space, you’ll find a reliable option with little fuss. Yet while the proud history showcases an admirable staying power, there’s a sense it’s living a little on past glories. + The traditional menu - Toilets need some TLC

China Blue 96 Renfield Street, City Centre (Map 6: E3, 45) 0141 333 1881 | £6.95 (set lunch) / £16 (set dinner)

Dumpling Monkey

Conveniently located within easy walking distance of Glasgow’s busiest streets, it’s easy to see why China Blue has carved out its own place in a competitive market. Though with just a small sign above the doorway that leads to the first-floor restaurant, it’d be easy to miss altogether. The interior may be a little dated but the place is busy with the industrious click of chopsticks, expertly wielded by the city’s Chinese community. There are treasures to be had for those who choose wisely, or simply invoke the wisdom of beaming staff who are ready to spring into action and guide you through a menu

You can imagine lunch in Beijing is probably akin to the experience at this canteeny Chinese on Partick’s fringes – busy traffic outside, people packed in around bare tables and a frenetic turnaround of diners and dishes taking place. It’s chop chop, steam steam and your order arrives with the chop sticks barely out of the packet. Dumplings are the mainstay with a variety of fillings in the offing and a hefty plateful of ten for a fiver, while steamed buns offer a pretty substantial meal for even less. Miso soup comes in hefty bowlfuls and regulars such as katsu curry and homemade char

121 Dumbarton Road, West End (Map 9A: B3, 15) 0141 583 8300 | £9 (lunch)

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sui find a happy home in hungry mouths. A place offering great value while not lacking in the quality department. + Cheap and cheerful Chinese grub - Steamed buns could sink ships

Ho Wong 82 York Street, City Centre (Map 6: C6, 89) 0141 221 3550, ho-wong.com | £12.80 (set lunch) / £31 (set dinner)

Generations of Glaswegians have enjoyed a meal here in Ho Wong’s warm, brightly coloured dining room. Whether midweek or weekend, the tables, delicately laid out with pristine napkins and flowers, are busy with diners. There’s something for all tastes in a conservative but attractive menu that adroitly covers the Chinese culinary canon. Dim sum come with a courteous yet reassuring 20-minute wait, and there’s a strong seafood bias on the menu including an unmissable stuffed crab claw among the appetisers. Szechuan crispy shredded beef has the required soft crunch/zing combo while the chilli peppers stuffed with crushed prawn are pretty much Oriental jalapeño poppers, leaving enough hot-hot tingle to make it impossible to not reach for more of them. Slip off the beaten path and try the meltingly tender grilled chicken that comes in a wash of rich plum sauce – it’s a tangy show-stopper. While not light on the wallet, Ho Wong isn’t prohibitively expensive either and the lunch menu is a great way to sample the quality for less. + Flawless main courses - Dated paintings

Ka Ka Lok 175 St Georges Road, West End (Map 9A: H4, 89) 0141 353 6528 | Closed Thu | £17 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

With three Chinese restaurants packed

into the corners of one block, this part of St George’s Cross has plenty to offer fans of the cuisine. Ka Ka Lok, however, is doing something special. The traditional Chinese menu has an emphasis on quality and authenticity, with much imported from China, such as the ‘sizzling’ pomfret fish. No corners are cut here, and that shines through in starters such as the soft crab or pan-fried dumpling. For those not afraid of a little heat, the ‘spiced beef in hot spicy’ packs a punch with four types of chilli. The European menu features curries and satays and, although they’re not the cheapest on the block, the portion size and quality represents real value for money. If you sit in, the space is clean and uncluttered, with neutral walls and dark wooden tables. All this, along with helpful staff, leads to a deeply satisfying experience. + Plump king prawns with sizzling ginger - Deciding what to order

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Loon Fung

417–419 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre (Map 6: A2, 5) 0141 332 1240, loonfungglasgow.co.uk | £7.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

A pair of miniature golden dragons unobtrusively guard the dining area here, as if watching for any break in tradition. Glorious aromas fill the room under soft-glowing lanterns while auspiciously coloured red linen is draped around here and there under a Chinese patterned mosaic. Tradition, continuity and balance. And why not? Exquisitely steamed sea bream hold its shape perfectly while supporting ginger and soy dressing and the crab rolls taste as if they just scuttled from the beach and into your bowl. There’s a whole farmyard of ways to enjoy some duck, with the chilli

and garlic version a particular delight. Whole chillis stuffed with smashed prawns are skilfully seasoned and burst with harmonious heat and sweetness. Add some steamed greens or salt and pepper tofu and it’s hard to imagine a fresher more authentic experience. Those dragons might as well relax and tuck into some dim sum – it doesn’t need a fortune cookie to suggest that the Loon Fung won’t be changing anytime soon. Thank goodness for that. + Excellent balance of flavours - Big screen TVs

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Lychee Oriental

59 Mitchell Street, City Centre (Map 6: E5, 101) 0141 248 2240, lycheeoriental. co.uk | £9.90 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Exquisitely balanced honey chilli chicken? Check. Beef in wonderfully rich black bean sauce? Check. Monkfish hotpot in a secret recipe broth? Yes please. Ornamental dragons? Umm, decorative bamboo sticks in a stylish recess might have to do. Owner Jimmy Lee wants to bring metropolitan sophistication to Oriental dining and by big city he means Hong Kong – so anyone looking for lanterns might be disappointed. Everyone else can enjoy the thoughtful combination of minimalist contemporary style and Chinese dishes delivered with aplomb. Clean lines and dark wooden blinds partition an interior with an upmarket continental bistro feel and, as the menus arrive, only that bamboo artwork suggests the content. Open them and it’s hard to ignore the set menu – a range of smartly picked classics at a great price. Prawn wonton and chicken satay starters provide immediate reassurance that as much care is taken with the kitchen as the furnishings. Serving up traditional

✱ HITLIST

CHINESE ✱ Loon Fung A classic Chinese dining experience in the heart of the city – no fusion, no fuss, no frills, just great Asian food. ✱ Lychee Oriental Fusing contemporary dining with classic Chinese cooking adds up to a unique and stylish experience. with a modern twist shouldn’t be rocket science, but if it is, the Chinese did invent gunpowder. Lychee Oriental’s take on the cuisine is as refreshing on the senses as it is on the palate. + Dares to be be different - More time between courses, please

NEW Noodle 98 Bath Street, City Centre (Map 6: D3, 42) 0141 353 1889 | £8.50 (lunch/dinner)

This unassuming addition to Glasgow’s Chinese scene is marked out by its claim that all noodles are handmade to order.

Ex xpe erien e ce e ou ur 1st Au uthe ent n ic i Sic ic chuan hu n Cu uissin ne in n Sco otla and d.

349 Sauchiehall Street G2 3HW

http:// www.sichuanhouse.co.uk

0141 333 1788

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Sure enough, the open-plan space (more café than restaurant) leaves chefs in full view as they roll and shake out these delights, pleasingly chewy and irregular. It makes a big difference. Nothing is fancy, but it tastes good: rich, clean broths, veg that’s full of flavour, served with thin, beaten slices of chicken or beef. A generous portion of ‘northern style dumpling’ (chicken potstickers) is served in the steam basket – glutinous parcels that explode into vinegary umami in the mouth, while a cold counter offers simple accompaniments such as fried peanuts, little twists of tofu, or a spicy kimchi-esque bowl of cabbage. Things crunch, contrast and sizzle when they’re meant to. No alcohol, or pork, but there is a Chinese menu with intriguing options. + Handmade noodles - Pretty spartan

Sichuan House 345–349 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre (Map 6: B2, 10) 0141 333 1788, sichuanhouse.co.uk | £8.95 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Szechuan-style cooking is most noted for the heat derived from the unique taste of the south-west Chinese region’s chillis. In the only restaurant dedicated to bringing these provincial tastes to the city, dishes here showcase them in vibrant red colours – which can leave a little sweat on the brow. Cumin beef is in tender strips with crisp chunks of grilled onion, and there is plenty of spice in the hearty hotpots combining chilli oil with a variety of meats. While it could be overpowering for some, there’s no denying the dishes are packed with flavour. Those seeking something milder will find plenty to choose from in an extensive menu featuring traditional dishes, such as spicy sea snails, or popular favourites such as roast duck and steamed sea bass. Despite the luxurious seating and stylish décor, there’s a little intimacy lacking – perhaps a result of the bright lighting or simply the location on bustling Sauchiehall Street, it’s an upmarket experience that could benefit from a homely touch or two. + Chance to try regional cuisine - Quality aspects don’t quite knit together

TIPLIST FOR BURGERS • Ad Lib Crisp and stylish city centre diners with classy takes on burgers and more from across North America. 173 • The Admiral Traditional bar hosting folk music, pub quizzes and club nights, with top-quality and generous burgers. 117 • Bloc+ With opulent burgers that would make Lenin blush, Bloc+ capitalises on a renegade spirit at its basement bar. 118 • Bread Meats Bread One of the original and best on ‘burger boulevard’, combining fast food, dude food and good food. 173 • BRGR Hip utilitarianism reigns at this burger shack at Kelvinbridge, also specialising in cut-price beer. 173 • The Vic Café Bar A hubbub of creative activity at the Art School, reinventing classic comforting dishes. 116

FAR EAST FUSION, JAPANESE, MALAYSIAN, KOREAN, THAI Glasgow’s Far East restaurants offer some of the most vibrant tastes in town. They’re also a haven for the growing band of diners who have specific dietary requirements. Barley-based Japanese beer, sake in all its forms, rice noodles, tofu every which way, fermented kimchi and brilliantly crisp and tasty vegetables all star, alongside spices and herbs such as ginger, turmeric and lemongrass. This section offers varied dining whether you want salt-andpepper soft-shell crab, a feast in a cool new sushi restaurant, a fruity cocktail with Asian pop in the background, a vast bowl of confit duck in red curry, or a platter of nasi lemak. Reviewers: Jane Allan, Andrea Pearson

Asiama MALAYSIAN 185–189 St George’s Road, West End See Chinese

Banana Leaf MALAYSIAN 67 Cambridge Street, City Centre (Map 6: D1, 22) 0141 333 9994, bananaleafglasgow.com | £10.50 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Malaysian cooking offers a distinctive fusion of Chinese and Malay flavours and ingredients, and the Wong family who arrived in Glasgow from Johore Bahru 17 years ago deliver it with style. With manager Chow Yong Wong front of house and father Kong Foo Wong in the kitchen, the diner feels nourished by genuine Malaysian tastes and hospitality. The smartly refurbished space and revamped menus indicate a restaurant upping its game. Headings such as Blast from the Past, Barbecue Corner, Kampung Village and Hot and Spicy Market lead the diner through a menu offering a wonderful balance of unusual and comfortingly familiar. A stir-fried mussel starter with tiny salty and spicy black beans fires up the palate, while nasi lemak, the addictive Malaysian street favourite, is a beautifully presented mound of coconut rice with crunchy peanuts, crunchier anchovies, chicken in curry sauce, pickles and a boiled egg. Elsewhere there’s a local flavour with a fragrant dish of tender venison slices, ginger and spring onion. Possibly no room for dessert after all that but the new cocktail menu could well be an answer. + Menu caters for both the adventurous and conservative - Desserts a bit stodgy – why no fruit platter?

Bar Soba FUSION 11 Mitchell Lane, City Centre (Map 6: E5, 108) 0141 204 2404, barsoba.co.uk | £8.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

This, the eldest in the Soba family, set out to serve quality Pan-Asian street food in a cool environment – a promise on which it has made good. It is an image-conscious and funky bar – next to the Lighthouse, Scotland’s Centre for Design and Architecture

– and is currently clad in a series of contemporary faux-industrial glass lights contrasting with warm wooden furniture. Fun is foremost, with live DJs four nights a week and a terrific selection of cocktails. The food menu offers dumplings, fritters and fishcakes as well noodle and rice dishes. There are also burgers and the like, just in case. Every (generous) plateful is laced with just-right, crunchy wok-fried veg and garnished with raw beansprouts or chilli pieces. The excellent chiang mai curry with wheat noodles achieves that delicate balance of sweet coconut with chilli and sour citrus. The trickier rice noodle pad thai is a little too sticky, and the desserts are fairly generic – with pineapple and passion fruit flavours no more than referencing the Far East. But overall it is a great place to hang out, where the food is tasty and the value for money is noteworthy. + Chiang mai curry noodle bowl - Sticky rice noodles

NEW Bar Soba FUSION 79 Albion Street, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 21) 0141 237 1551, barsoba.co.uk | £8.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

This latest addition to the successful Bar Soba Pan-Asian eating and drinking experience has taken up residence in a seriously large and exciting revamped historic space on one corner of Merchant Square, with an enthusiastic staff on hand to ensure that the crowds of aficionados are comfortably housed. Diners can feast on large bowls of inventive Far Eastern fusion cuisine including Singapore noodles with pork, chicken and prawns all spiced up with curry, ginger, garlic and coriander, or a full range of tastes can be explored by sampling the Soba sharing platter of corn and coconut fritters, Thai fishcakes, chicken satay, sticky chicken wings and spring rolls all served with assorted dips. Thai fish and chips is recommended – sea bass in tempura batter stuffed with prawns and lime leaf. There are special vegetarian, gluten-free and children’s menus plus excellent-value lunch and pre-theatre menus. The bar offers an outstanding range of global beers with 12 on draft, while cocktails come tall, classic, straight up, to share or in buckets, and the wines are fresh, crisp and fruity, perfectly complementing the spicy food. + Space, food and alcohol = perfect party night out - Leaving the cocoon-like experience

Bar Soba FUSION 116–122 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: C2, 28) 0141 357 5482, barsoba.co.uk | £8.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

If a crowd cheerfully eating, drinking and relaxing is a sign of success then Bar Soba’s formula is clearly working. Service is relaxed and welcoming, and diners are encouraged to approach their experience in a leisurely fashion. Drinks are varied and well priced with interesting wines, a range of European and Asian beers and brilliant value cocktails. The Asian food appeals to the treat-seeking palate, with a couple of sharing platters to linger over as mains decisions are made. The anticipated delights are there but with a twist, such as the exemplary Thai green curry, served with green beans, pumpkin and aubergine for added texture. Aromatic red duck is particularly satisfying – the confit melts in the mouth while greens and lychees add crunch and sweetness. A separate vegetarian menu includes well-planned dishes such as temple tofu and broccoli with a generous portion

✱ HITLIST

FAR EAST ✱ Chaophraya Glasgow First class city-centre Thai experience without too hefty a price tag, ideal for special occasions. ✱ The Hanoi Bike Shop Down a lane off Byres Road, the only dedicated Vietnamese restaurant in town offers taste-crammed food with a creative and individual twist. ✱ Kimchi Cult This tiny restaurant off Byres Road brings a unique and seductive take on Korean flavours and dishes to the Glasgow street food scene. ✱ Nippon Kitchen This stylish city centre Japanese restaurant caters effortlessly for all dining requirements, from the taste thrillseeker to the vegan minimalist. of vegetables and sweet chilli-glazed tofu. The children’s menu has crowdpleasers such as chicken satay and chicken katsu or high-end panko-coated sea bass fingers. Desserts, especially the passion fruit sorbet with pineapple salsa and mango daiquiri, maintain the Asian indulgence. + Catering for dietary needs - Looking well worn – a refurb is planned late 2016

Cailin’s Sushi NOODLE & SUSHI BARS 1136 Argyle Street, City Centre (Map 9B: D2, 25) 0141 334 8637, cailinssushikelvinhaugh.co.uk | £9.75 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

If Japan is famed for good use of small space then Cailin’s Sushi is a skilled proponent. It may look unimpressive, with just two tables and a kiosk-style counter but do not be fooled. Behind the scenes – somewhere – exquisite sushi and sashimi is being prepared. There is an appealing and simple artistry in the whole experience as well. First a selection of ginger and sauce – with small bowls to mix the wasabi and soy to a strength of your choosing – arrives with chopsticks. Choose a mixed sashimi combo, and thin slices of raw fish arrive on a platter shaped as an ornamental garden bridge. The delicate slices of fish are simple but delicious. Dragon roll – a whole sushi roll resembling a dragon complete with head and tail (prawn tempura) – impresses with perfectly ripe avocado serving as a foil to the crispy batter. A black dragon roll has less drama but makes up for that with a grilled eel topping – a succulent and flavoursome revelation. There is plenty more going on (bubble teas, ramen, bento boxes, rice burgers, etc) but the sushi and sashimi are the stars of the show. + Black dragon roll - Only a small space for dining

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Central Sushi NOODLE & SUSHI BARS 21 Renfield Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 80) 0141 221 2930 | £12 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

The calm inside the latest Japanese outlet to open, Central Sushi, is a pleasant retreat from one of the city centre’s busier thoroughfares. A slick team works in view of diners inside the twotier space. Fans of the Japanese goods store Muji (that all too briefly occupied space on Queen Street) will love the similar pared-down, no-brand styling. A simple brown paper menu lists the choices with minimal description and no pound signs. This may be to save ink or to distract readers from the city-centre prices. A good range of sashimi includes eel, octopus, cuttlefish and clam as well as more familiar salmon and mackerel. There are plenty of ramen choices (available with eel) and it also nods to Western tastes with a surf and turf chef special of beef, prawn and grilled veg. The sushi, served with an enormous dare-size portion of wasabi, is good without being showy – overall this place very much does what it says on the tin: provides sushi, in the centre. + City centre sushi - City centre prices

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Chaophraya Glasgow

THAI The Townhouse, Nelson Mandela Place, City Centre (Map 6: F3, 67) 0141 332 0041, chaophraya.co.uk | £18 (lunch) / £25 (dinner)

When you climb the ornate staircase of the former Glasgow Athenaeum (once the Royal Scottish Academy of Music and Drama) you know you are in for a show-stopping experience. Seated in the grand hall you could be dining first class on an Edwardian liner, cruising the Andaman Sea perhaps. The menu is almost overwhelming but, helpfully, all chef’s specials are clearly marked. Waiting staff glide effortlessly back and forth from the bustling open kitchen to bring dish after dish of top-notch Thai tastiness. Fishcakes, delicious; satay, nutty and perfect; massaman lamb curry, slow-cooked, luscious and no wonder it’s favoured by Thai royalty. And the jungle fish curry is a winner with fresh heat from green peppercorns and krachai ginger. But don’t leave without dessert. The recent addition of a pastry chef has brought delicate macaroons to the mix, as well as coconut and lime panacotta that demonstrates a sophisticated blend of styles. However, the Thai pancakes with pandan, coconut and sticky rice are bursting with authentic flavours. This place is going from strength to strength and definitely a good choice for a special occasion. + Fresh, delicious, authentic, special - One or two tables in busy thoroughfare

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The Hanoi Bike Shop

VIETNAMESE 8 Ruthven Lane, West End (Map 9A: C2, 40) 0141 334 7165, hanoibikeshop.co.uk | £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

No resting on laurels for this ambitious Vietnamese-style restaurant created by the renowned Ubiquitous Chip group. Hanoi Bike Shop has been a food fan’s favourite since it opened in 2012. The kitchen has literally beefed up the range of Vietnamese pho meal-in-abowl soups, and the depth and herbal resonance of the spicy beef and pork noodle variety beckons from the taste memory long after the last drop has been spooned up. Similarly with the deep flavour of the sauce for the crisp, sweetly blackened exterior of the juicy barbecued chicken. The charming attic space, with its eerily Hanoi-like feel, buzzes with the

distinctive sounds of diners exclaiming over how the food looks and tastes. Fresh herbs from the group’s Ayrshire farm pack in the flavour, while the organic tofu prepared on a daily basis with its crumbly texture is astoundingly better than the standard offering. The menu is admirably limited and supplemented by daily specials to keep regulars happy. Offerings such as the Vietnamesestyle Sunday brunch yum cha, with its dumplings, soups and congees, promise protracted pleasure, while the monthly four-noodle Tuesday evening treat is excellent value. + Helpful, well-informed staff - Evening booking essential

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NEW Kimchi Cult

KOREAN 14 Chancellor Street, West End (Map 9A: B3, 25) 0141 258 8081, kimchicult.com | Closed Sun/Mon | £6 (Tue–Fri set lunch) / £10 (dinner)

Diners are first drawn to Kimchi Cult by glowing red glass candle holders, a deep wooden window table, several tomes on Korean cooking and a stylish black, red and gold tin of gochujang sauce – the sweet and savoury Korean chilli sauce. Once inside, the open dining kitchen staffed by a trio of engaging chefs confirms that here, just off Byres Road, something exciting is happening. With a background in London pop-up and street food and two years in Korea, the owners have long dreamed of tempting Glaswegians with their ‘punk riffs on Korean classics’. Their food resonates with the tang of kimchi, the Korean superfood made mainly from fermented cabbage. Delights include Chinese baos wrapped round meltingly tender pork with a tomato, chilli, coriander salad, chips with cheese and kimchi, and unforgettably crunchy free-range fried chicken, meltingly soft inside and served with ubiquitous dark red spicy gochujang sauce. Specials rotate weekly and include prawn bao, kimchi fried rice and kimchi jjigae – pork and tofu in a rich kimchi and anchovy sauce with wild rice – comfort food at its best and most seductive. + Convivial dining with a comfort food kick - The sit-in area is very small and there’s no toilet

Kitsch Inn THAI 214 Bath Street, City Centre (Map 6: C2, 15) 0141 332 1341, tikibarglasgow.com | £8 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

The Kitsch Inn’s kitchen, controlled by Thai chef Leksriri, produces some delicious takes on his national cuisine. The cooking has a Pan Asian character, with an Australian accent, and surely it has the best chicken satay in town, served with an outstanding peanut and chilli, lemon grass infused sauce – the chicken is soft, tasty and free-range (not common features of the dish elsewhere). It is this awareness of quality that belies the wonderful razzamatazz of the décor with its multiple images of sultry maidens offset by a gorgeous ceiling and deep jade green colours. Mains push the tastebuds to the limit, again prepared with an eye to sourcing and sustainability, such as pad Thai or pla tod yum – lots of chilli kick and crispy texture offset by sweet mango and firm crispy coley. Drinks are served in quirky ceramic mugs, while desserts are good and incredibly cheap. Staff maintain a fun atmosphere ensuring the Kitsch Inn and associated Tiki Bar downstairs are often the venue of choice for celebration parties. + Amazing value desserts - No disabled access The List Eating & Drinking Guide 147

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TIPLIST FOR KIDS & FAMILIES • An Clachan Rustic, welcoming café in a charming Kelvingrove Park building, with daily specials and luxury cakes. 135 • Brooklyn Café Proper neighbourhood café, doing hearty breakfasts, ice-creams and more. 135 • Celino’s Time-honoured deli-restaurant, with options to sit in or take away from a large counter of Italian delights. 157 • Di Maggio’s Long-standing local chain, keeping families happily fed on Italian-American food for decades. 158 • KG Café Large, bustling café beneath Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, popular with artlovers, tourists and families. 115 • Tramway Café Bar Housed in a performing arts space, with views of the adjoining Hidden Gardens community project. 116

Nanakusa JAPANESE 441 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre (Map 6: A2, 3) 0141 332 6303, nanakusa.co.uk | £10 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Beyond the bustle of Sauchiehall Street, Nanakusa offers a calm, contemporary setting dedicated to fast service of high standards of Japanese cuisine, also to be found in sister restaurant Nippon Kitchen. Office workers, busy students or time-challenged theatregoers (the King’s and Mitchell Library theatres are around the corner) encounter swift efficient service of the salty, spicy and sweet flavours characteristic of Japanese food. Highlights include grilled yakitori prawns, miso soup salty with seaweed, deliciously sauced chilli noodles with various meats, seafood or yasai vegetable, not to mention sashimi in six varieties with locally sourced salmon leading the pack. There is an inventive range of sushi and temaki – jumbo-sized seaweed-wrapped cones of sushi rice with fillings such as sake salmon or soft-shell crab. Fairly priced lunch and bento boxes provide tasting options, and the reasonably priced if limited wine list includes sakes, and there are Japanese beers on offer, too. Fast food, quality dining and healthy eating rarely come in one package but Nanakusa is the exception that proves the rule. + Patient and attentive service - Seating can get a bit uncomfortable

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Nippon Kitchen

JAPANESE 91 West George Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 69) 0141 328 3113, nipponrestaurant.co.uk | £12 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Nippon Kitchen, with its minimalist interior and darkly elegant stoneware ceramics, provides a stylish setting for what is a true dining event. The balancing of sweet, salty and piquant is at the heart of Japanese cuisine, with the array of condiments – wasabi, soy sauce, mayonnaise, pickled ginger and vegetables – involving the diner in constructing the final taste combinations. Crunchy panko-crumbed sweet potato patties are offset by a swirl of mayonnaise emulsified in soy

sauce with a touch of chilli oil, tempura soft-shell crab is generous, fresh and delectably light, while selecting from the vast sushi range is an intriguing challenge. The salmon yakimono, fresh from the teppan grill, is moist inside a slightly crisp exterior, complemented by an extra-crunchy citrusy salad. For dessert, try the chocolate and wasabi tart, a collaboration with Merchant City café, Once Upon a Tart. A knowingly selected drinks list includes a range of Japanese beers, sakes and whiskies that is unparalleled in the city. It is little wonder that the upstairs private dining rooms are increasingly being used by the discriminating for parties, dinners and weddings. + Sophisticated drinks list with wines and sakes - Bento box crowd-pleasers can be a tad salty

Noodle NOODLE & SUSHI BARS 98 Bath Street, City Centre See Chinese

NEW Obu Pan Asian FUSION Princes Square, 48 Buchanan Street, City Centre (Map 6: F5, 105) 0141 221 7044, obupanasian.co.uk | £10.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Obu, offering all that is popular and delectable in Pan Asian cuisine, is the latest addition to the Princes Square food court. Stylish black, red and white menus cherry pick from across Asia and clearly signal vegetarian, gluten-free and chillihot options. The take on Pan Asian food includes India in the mix with a curry pot section representing Japan, Thailand, North and South India. The Thai red fish curry comes brimming with prawns and firm fleshed coley in a sauce that is sweet with coconut and piquant with lime and garlic although not as chilli-hot as suggested by the menu’s double red chilli logo. Gyozas and baos work very well as starters or light snacks, while the Japanese tofu salad or the sticky beef salad are tasty one-bowl salad lovers’ delights. The drinks menu offers easydrinking cocktails such as Japanese plum sour as well as 14 judiciously selected wines by the glass. Lunch and pre-theatre menus are outstanding value; a group of diners with varied tastes in Asian food and a love of cocktails and wine cannot go wrong with Obu. + Convenient for cravers of Asian flavours - Some dishes light on spicing

Opium FUSION 191 Hope Street, City Centre (Map 6: D3, 54) 0141 332 6668, opiumrestaurant. co.uk | £10.50 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)

A cut above your average Asian restaurant, Opium is a calming dining space (quite an achievement given the constant rumble of passing subway trains and buses), offering quality and a good dose of style and sophistication as well. The menu is predominantly Chinese with Thai and Malaysian additions, and in the evening service the extensive range of dishes demonstrates plenty of culinary creativity. There is also a much shorter no-fuss, good-value lunch menu covering the different cuisines with sweet and sour chicken, Malay nasi goreng and Thai chilli pork. Each dish is nicely balanced, well made and beautifully presented, as befits the stylish surroundings. At just over a tenner for two courses the lunch deal offers good value, as does the threecourse pre-theatre menu, coming in at under twenty pounds. + Accomplished cuisine - À la carte can get pricey

Obu Pan Asian: a new fusion specialist in Princes Square

The Pacific THAI 562 Dumbarton Road, West End See Bars & Pubs

NEW Pickled Ginger JAPANESE 512 St Vincent Street, West End (Map 9B: F3, 44) 0141 328 8941, pickledgingerfinnieston.co.uk | £15 (lunch) / £ 18 (dinner)

Positioned in its most inauspicious spot opposite a vast, flattened gap site opposite, Pickled Ginger with its bright and cheery exterior, looks a bit like a lonely pub that has survived the tenement clearances. But inside is a vibrant diner that is clearly striking a chord with locals. The bar menu describes seven sakes (choose a chardonnay-esque variety, or one like a cognac) which are then served warmed or chilled into small egg-size cups. The proprietors (who also run Rioja along the road) are keen to educate diners in sushi etiquette as a large portion of the brown paper menu is dedicated to this purpose. A fish sushi sharing plate for two offers a fair selection of nigiri (salmon, sea bass and octopus) with dragon roll and assorted small maki for £23 – and the pickled ginger is, naturally, delicious. Puddings offer another delightful surpise in the shape of chocolate mochi, a chocolate ganache enveloped in a soft rice cake. A great experience – though the Just Eat orders lining up along the bar can be a distraction for both diners and staff. + Sake flasks and cups - Staff a bit distracted by takeaway orders

Rumours Kopitiam MALAYSIAN 21 Bath Street, City Centre (Map 6: E3, 47) 0141 353 0678 | £8.50 (set lunch) / £14.50 (dinner)

Expat Malaysians long for food from home, tourists rave about Malaysian cuisine – if you want to get a flavour, Rumours Kopitiam certainly obliges. The set-up is simple and functional, where chopsticks are provided as well as a knife and fork, while the menu and drinks list help transport you to a typical Malay Peninsula eatery. It’s all about mixing and matching textures

and flavours to create dishes that are truly exotic, even eccentric. Hokkien vermicelli is dark brown with sweet soya sauce, concealed within are prawns, squid, pork and crunchy morsels of fishcake, while every now and then the bright green bite of choi sum lifts the palate. The chicken curry is true Malaysian comfort food – chicken cooked slowly on the bone with coconut milk, tofu and vegetables. The unusual vegetarian ‘mock’ dishes on the menu as well as nasi lemak or curry laksa all reflect the fusion of Chinese and Malay cuisines. Malty iced milo reflects British influences, and the salt and pepper squid has an inspired garlic, spring onion and chilli garnish that calls out for another Tiger beer. + Exciting and authentic eating experience - No disabled access

Shilla KOREAN 1138 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 21) 0141 334 5566 | Closed Sun | £15 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

With fermenting taking the culinary world by storm, Korean cuisine – with spicy kimchi (fermented vegetables, usually cabbage) at its heart – may well be rocking into popularity. But word is already out among many of the city’s Asian diners, and there are sometimes queues for a table at this tightly packed eatery in the heart of hip Finnieston. Many come for much-loved ddouk bok yi starters, translated as ‘fishcake’ but better described as a seafood gnocchi soup. Sae woo gu yi, or whole king prawns (served in shells), are challenging but a supply of napkins and a couple of bottles of Hite Korean beer make them more manageable. The hotpots are very popular, made with tofu, seafood or meat, but elsewhere on the menu a main dish of ccan pung ki (deep-fried chicken pieces with hot red chillies) is fiery and filling. It is also good to see Scottish fish among the grilled options – go deung ouh gu yi is a half mackerel simply fried in sea salt and served with sliced Korean radish and soy sauce, which goes very well with the side of kimchi. An interesting finish is a sweet, red aduki bean ice-cream. + Red bean ice-cream - Service a little random at busy times

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GLASGOW

Thai Lemongrass THAI 24 Renfrew Street, City Centre (Map 6: E2, 28) 0141 331 1315 | £10.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

It’s a relief to step into Thai Lemongrass – escaping one of Glasgow’s busiest junctions for the calming, zen-like vibe of this opulent restaurant, resplendent in reds, shimmering with golds. Grab a booth if you can to feel even more special, as smartly attired staff swish around delivering a wide selection of Thai dishes. Perhaps too wide – there’s an à la carte also with banquet options, set lunch menus for the suits on weekdays, a pretheatre menu for show-goers at nearby theatres and cinemas, as well as a special menu with high-rolling monkfish, snapper and steak. Once digested, the menu options offer up Thai classics – tom yum soups, red/green and jungle curries, stirfries – as well as a smattering of wider Asian influences. Thai Lemongrass isn’t the cheapest or the coolest place for a Far Eastern meal, but they know how to make diners feel special, whatever the occasion. [Not recently visited.]

Thai Siam THAI 1191 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 16) 0141 229 1191, thaisiamglasgow. com | £9.90 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Following a long-awaited internal and external refurbishment, Thai Siam – a resident in Finnieston for over a decade – can now truly lay claim to being one of the best of Glasgow’s traditional Thai restaurants. Care is taken with the purchasing of fresh local produce and the resultant authentically spiced Thai dishes are real crowd-pleasers. It is worth noting the unique range of spicy salads – a good choice to start rather than the more familiar wok-fried appetisers as the freshness of the salad cleanses the palate, allowing for the savouring of one of the substantial and reasonably priced mains. Duck in various guises is a speciality here and comes with pancakes, sizzling, stir-fried or as gang phed nor-mai with coconut milk, red curry paste, lime leaves, bamboo shoots, sweet peppers and sweet basil. The wine list is small but remarkably good value especially the house white which has just the right balance of fruitiness and acidity to work well with richly spiced Thai food. + Reliable place for authentic Thai flavours - Desserts rather disappointing

NEW Thaikhun Glasgow THAI Silverburn Shopping Centre, Southside (Map 9B: A1, off) 0141 648 0090, thaikhun. co.uk | £11.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

The Thai phrase ‘Ow jai sai’ roughly translated means caring from the heart for every detail, and there is no doubt that Thaikhun staff do their utmost to ensure that diners have a come-again experience. Thai Leisure Group with its powerful brand messages also owns Chaophraya in the city centre, which offers a consciously upmarket experience as opposed to Thaikhun where the décor, slogans and tableware mimic the informality of a Thai street or

Get up-to-date opening hours at list.co.uk/ food

beach restaurant – but on a large scale inside Silverburn shopping centre; a tad incongruous but it really works. The menu is varied and offers standard thai favourites such as pad Thai or massaman curry, as well as more unusual regional dishes such as pla samun prai – an Eastern Thailand dish of deep-fried whole sea bream with a wonderfully tangy red onion salad hitting the palate with ginger, lime, coriander, lemon grass, fish sauce, peanuts, chilli and palm sugar. There is a good-value lunch menu and a cinema deal as well as 21 wines by the glass selected to complement Thai tastes and flavours. + Outstanding service and value for the setting - Can get very crowded it’s so popular

Thairiffic THAI 303 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre (Map 6: C2, 13) 0141 332 3000, thairifficrestaurant.com | £9.90 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

This spacious and well-appointed restaurant offers a first-floor haven from the bustle below, enhanced by impeccable service. The extensive menu is divided into easy-to assess sections and provides Thai food lovers with all the standard favourites and more. The substantial mixed starter for two includes satay chicken, vegetable tempura, spring rolls, crab dumplings, fishcakes, BBQ pork ribs and six dipping sauces. Then there are curries, fiery or sweet and mild noodle dishes and sizzling grills – the red and green curries with a choice of meats or veg are the stars of the show and reflect a deft hand for spicing as well as a judicious use of coconut milk and lime, so much so that the familiar morphs into the irresistible. Elsewhere, the promisingly titled ‘ginger tossed on fire’ is rather blander than anticipated – possibly the sign of a menu overextending the kitchen. Such substantial mains militate against a dessert but what is on offer here provides all the sticky, fruity sweetness of a Thai pudding, with the grilled caramelised pineapple and coconut ice-cream being a particularly successful combination. + Generous, freshly cooked and wellspiced ingredients - With so many dishes, bound to be the odd miss

Wudon JAPANESE 535 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: E1, 61) 0141 357 3033, wudonnoodlebar.co.uk | £6.95 (set lunch) / £12.50 (dinner)

Caterpillar, eye of the tiger, Japanese rose – there’s a range of intriguingly named dishes at Wudon, a design-conscious Japanese restaurant with Korean and Thai touches. Staff are committed to introducing customers new to Japanese food to its delights and intricacies. Forget afternoon tea and champagne and go for a sharing platter of sushi chosen from a range of 27 including ‘caterpillar’ – an inside-out sushi roll with green beans and king prawn tempura layered with avocado. Team the sushi with plum wine or a Woo Woo cocktail and finish with a dessert such as hot chocolate rolls – nutella chocolate in pastry with coconut and chocolate chip ice-cream. If that all sounds too girlie then also on offer are vast and sustaining bowls of noodles and rice with freshly cooked ingredients, such as kimchi udon – thick fried noodles in a spicy Korean kimchi sauce with vegetables, cleverly flavoured with a hint of orange and topped with a choice from meat, seafood or tofu. + Inventive twists on Japanese standards - Chewy squid with minimal taste

FISH With the cool waters of the North Sea and the Atlantic, and freshwater and sea lochs galore, Scotland is blessed by an abundance of fish and shellfish. Some of the world’s most sought-after seafood comes from our waters, and the best restaurants in this section ensure strong relationships with suppliers are at the core of their business. An emphasis on sustainability means that top-quality seasonal produce is at the heart of their offering, too. From gleaming oyster bars topped with bottles of champagne, through to posh fish supper joints, and hot places on the scene doing exciting new things – this section really does have it all. Go ahead and dive in. Reviewer: Erica Goodey

City Merchant 97–99 Candleriggs, Merchant City See Scottish

Crabshakk 1114 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 29) 0141 334 6127, crabshakk.com | Closed Mon | £28 (lunch) / £28 (dinner)

Booking is essential at this tiny restaurant with an enormous reputation. Produce is almost always sourced from the west coast of Scotland, with suppliers apparently suggesting which produce the chefs should take that morning, rather than the other way round. Add to that a cute dining room, streaming in natural daylight, where modern nautical-themed features blend with natural elements such as driftwood tables and reclaimed sandstone, as well as a really excellent wine list, and it becomes clear why this stylish spot has been packing them in like – you guessed it – sardines, for years. Lots of simple dishes allow the flavours of the produce to shine through – huge, succulent scallops served in sizzling, salty anchovy butter, or tender squid in a light tempura batter. Specials change daily and could include starters of cockles with salsa verde and samphire or a John Dory main with seafood paella. You may need to opt for side orders, as portions can be small. Smack-bang in the beating heart of oh-so-hip Finnieston, Crabshakk manages to be sophisticated yet relaxed, with an emphasis on food, not formalities. + Top-quality produce and sourcing policy - Can be uncomfortably small

✱ HITLIST

FISH ✱ The Finnieston Cute old house decked out in a fisherman’s theme, offering simple, sustainable seafood, excellent cooking and great drinks. ✱ Gamba A subtly refined environment in the business district near Blythswood Square, serving fish and seafood done in all manner of wonderful ways. ✱ Gandolfi Fish Down-to-earth yet upmarket Merchant City seafood spot from long-established Gandolfi stable, serving high-quality seafood dishes and fabulous wine. ✱

The Finnieston

1125 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 34) 0141 222 2884, thefinniestonbar. com | £14 (lunch) / £23 (dinner)

Like so many joints in this buzzing area, the Finnieston manages to be on-trend without being full-on hipster. Decked out in a nautical theme, the ropes, chains and exposed brickwork make it feel pretty hardy. Strong relationships with suppliers mean that you could be seated beside a photograph of the fisherman who caught your dinner. In-season seafood is delivered daily, served simply with a choice of sauce and sides, which leads to a multitude of combinations such as black brill, smoked garlic and rosemary sauce, with green vegetables and champ or a fat fillet of sea trout, pink peppercorn butter and must-try sweet potato fries and chermoula mayo. Whatever the combination, it all goes together delightfully, hinting at a grand masterplan from the kitchen. In contrast to the simplicity of the mains, starters are more complex, such as Tarbert scallops that are silky and salty against earthy parsnip purée, with pomegranate seeds adding a wonderful sweet pop. Excellent food and a very happening vibe mean an endless stream of just-left-the-office

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types, West End eccentrics and everyone in between is reeled in to this excellent establishment. + Great food, drinks and morals - Awkward toilet/sink/hand-dryer layout

The Fish People Café 350 Scotland Street, Southside (Map 8: D1, off) 0141 429 8787, thefishpeoplecafe.co.uk | Closed Mon | £13 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)

The Fish People Café is so close to Shields Road subway station that it’s practically in it – meaning there’s no excuse not give it a visit. The small, elegant dining room manages to squeeze in a gorgeous marble oyster bar, topped off with champagne bottles. Black and white photos feature fishmongers and customers from the neighbouring shop – a reminder of the restaurant’s modest origins. Super fresh produce mean specials here are worthy, such as a cute bucket of plaice goujons with sweet chilli and coriander dipping sauce, or turbot fillet with a mound of spinach so big it would make Popeye whoop with excitement, with mussels and king prawns, all drenched in garlic butter. From the main menu, Portland crab and egg mayonnaise starter with excellent sourdough garlic toast is succesful despite the crab flavour floundering somewhat. Other dishes include delicious sole fillets with creamy sauce and puff pastry, or whole tandoori Anglesea sea bass with curry oil. To finish, toasted caramel mousse confronts the robust flavours of a striking sesame seed brittle, allowing a sweet, Pollokshields punch-up to take place on your tongue. + Excellent local and ethically sourced fish - A few lacklustre flavours

Passionate about Seafood 61-65 RoseStreet Street 157 Hope Edinburgh EH2 2NH Glasgow G2 2UQ Reservations 0141 0131 572 225 1405 5979 Reservations 157 Hope 61-65 RoseStreet Street Glasgow G2 Edinburgh EH22UQ 2NH Reservations Reservations 0141 0131 572 225 1405 5979

www.mussel-inn.com

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Gamba

225a West George Street, City Centre (Map 6: D3, 62) 0141 572 0899, gamba. co.uk | £19 (set lunch) / £32 (dinner)

With a menu for people with a passion for poisson coupled with classic, tasteful stylings, Gamba has an air of perfectionism, without a whiff of being uptight. The only smell, in fact, is of fresh, delicious fish, of all shapes, sizes and species. The extensive menu shows that most are landed on Scottish shores, such as pan-fried Isle of Gigha halibut or roast Shetland cod with mussels and fennel. A warming fish soup with Portland crabmeat and prawn dumplings features Asian twangs of ginger and coriander, while a tartare of sea bass has a hodgepodge of influences – wrapped in a cool Bloody Mary sorbet it’s oddly delicious, though the fish is somewhat muted by the kick of goat’s cheese. There are the classics, too, such as succulent lobster perfectly balanced with a rich thermidor sauce, or a lighter option of king scallops and monkfish steamed in paper with soy and ginger. With a top rating from the Sustainable Restaurant Association, a tight team of smart serving staff and finally desserts to knock your Christian Louboutins off, it’s no wonder Gamba regularly wins accolade and applause, including two AA rosettes. + Excellent ingredients and beautiful bar - No wheelchair access or disabled toilets

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Gandolfi Fish

84 Albion Street, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 24) 0141 552 9475, cafegandolfi.com | £15.95 (set lunch) / £23.50 (dinner)

In a similar manner to this smart Merchant City restaurant’s offerings, such as Skye langoustines grilled with garlic butter, this member of the Gandolfi group oozes sophistication via quality and simplicity. There’s a touch of New York about the big windows, suave champagne bar, wall of wine and comfortable leather bar stools. Delectable starters include a special of soft, hot crispy crab cakes with luscious wasabi mayonnaise, or Arbroath smokie flaked over fried potatoes with crunchy Stornoway black pudding croutons. Worthy of attention is the pan-blackened cod – the rich, full-bodied flavours of lentils in a beef jus with ham hough stand up beautifully to the huge hunk of succulent fish. Or keep it simple with delicious fat prawn and monkfish scampi, with skinny chips and beetroot slaw – at £20 it’s not the cheapest, but the ingredients justify the dent. A wellchosen wine list, smart and snappy service and great desserts, plus adjacent takeaway Fish to Go sharing the kitchen (lobster supper, anyone?) make Gandolfi Fish a must-visit for seafood lovers looking for an unpretentious yet smart and sophisticated vibe. + Delicious fish cooked with a difference - Desserts too big to finish

Mussel Inn 157 Hope Street, City Centre (Map 6: D4, 63) 0141 572 1405, mussel-inn.com | £22 (lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Born out of close relationships with Scottish west coast shellfish farmers, the Mussel Inn has been serving huge hauls of fresh, juicy mussels in the city centre for the past 15 years. Dished up by the kilo and with a choice of sauces, the mussels come steaming hot, plump and full of flavour. Spice lovers will gravitate to the Moroccan sauce with fiery chilli, garlic, ginger and cumin, while the blue cheese and bacon option is good for something decadent and different – ensure you order crunchy chips and crusty bread to soak up the rich, delicious sauce. Mussels may be the raison d’être here but there’s lots more, from shellfish

pasta in a creamy saffron-flavoured bisque to grilled sea bass or tiger prawns with noodles – meaning you can tread the traditional route of a small portion of mussels to start, or miss out the little orange delicacies if they don’t float your boat. A deep-sea shade of teal covers the walls of the big, brightly lit and spacious dining room, where a bit of canteen-style clatter sits well with the fresh, casual and contemporary vibe. + Lots of lovely mussels - Lights a bit bright for dinner

Old Salty’s • 33 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: D1) 0141 334 3334 • 1126 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 28) 0141 357 5677, oldsaltys.co.uk | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

If you’re the type that would rather eat your fish and chips from a plate, in trendy, attractive surroundings, Old Salty’s is for you. Based in two prime West End locations, these stylish chip shop cafés are making deep-fat frying cool again. Byres Road has more of a fun seafaring-seadog cabin style going on than the slightly more hipster Argyle Street branch, but both eateries carry off a relaxed vibe. From similar menus, choose from fresh and tasty cod, hake, haddock or even calamari with proper chippy chips, and mushy peas or pickled egg side orders. While there may be a couple of token healthier items on the menu such as seared tiger prawns with lemon and chilli starter, or fillet of coley with spring onion mash, this place is all about a traditional chippy menu, right down to the macaroni pie supper and strawberry jelly pudding. + Merry seafaring surroundings - Not much good if you don’t like chips

Rogano 11 Exchange Place, City Centre (Map 6: F5, 112) 0141 248 4055, roganoglasgow. com | £16.50 (set lunch) / £30 (dinner)

Reserved for the likes of special occasions, celebrations and the high society, this plush octogenarian holds a staunch reputation as being one of the most high-end restaurants in Glasgow. The dining room’s incredible art deco interior – all corals, golds and sultry lighting – give the place more than a touch of old-school glamour, helped by super-efficient service. You can choose from ‘Rogano classics’, such as Loch Fyne oysters, Scottish seafood fruits de mer, or grilled lemon sole – all on the menu since 1935. Or go for more complex, contemporary dishes, such as a blue cheese brûlée starter, or a main of grilled fillets of sea bass with crab bon-bons, pak choi and fennel and citrus dressing. You might presume that a starter of langoustines en croute would be a French-style dish – so don’t be too surprised when they arrive individually wrapped in crisp filo pastry with a red pepper aioli for dipping, making them more like delicious, high-end spring rolls filled with succulent shellfish. Chocolate mousse with honeycomb is everything that you might expect of a fine-dining dessert – and more. + Well-preserved art deco dining room - Lighting so low you may squint a bit

Two Fat Ladies 88 Dumbarton Road, West End (Map 9A: B3, 18) 0141 339 1944, twofatladiesrestaurant.com | £15.95 (set lunch) / £25.50 (dinner)

Nestled within the mishmash of shopfronts on Dumbarton Road, the narrow window peering into the kitchen of the original Two Fat Ladies restaurant is so tiny you could easily miss it. Beyond the cast-iron detailed door is a plush little haven, like a welcoming Partick

grotto, where, unsurprisingly given the size of the place, the menu is small – four starters and main courses, and three shellfish dishes doubling as either. A main course portion of scallops is rather frugal for the £20 price tag, yet the flavours of the horseradish crème-fraîche and the just-seared shellfish are divine. On the opposite extreme, if going for the Two Fat’s fish platter – which changes daily – prepare yourself for a feast, with three moist fillets of fish complete with crispy, salted skin are served swimming in garlic butter with standard veg and potatoes. With the sizzling and clattering coming from the open kitchen, velveteen chairs, candlelit tables and fine art, one can easily imagine a 1920s’ Parisian backstreet vibe to the place. + Beautiful paintings - Small portion of scallops

Two Fat Ladies at the Buttery 652 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: G3, off) 0141 221 8188, twofatladiesrestaurant.com | £16.95 (set lunch) / £32 (dinner)

Legend has it that the Buttery is one of the oldest restaurants in town, with the Two Fats stamping their brand of fishy flavours and meaty dishes on the place in 2007. The interior is like passing into a bygone era – all stiff linen tablecloths, traditional tartans, sterling silver and rows of fine china. The atmosphere is married to the formal setting, as are the prices. Starters feature smoked salmon, sea trout mousse and smoked halibut with red chilli, lime and tequila dressing, or king prawns served with warm mushrooms in a sweet sauce. Mains include a huge fillet of Mallaig halibut in a deep pool of chorizo and mussel stew – whose flavours are a littled subdued. Elsewhere, however, Highland venison and wood pigeon is perfectly pink, with parsnip purée and juniper jus a pleasant complement to the meat. Dessert wins dinner hands down – don’t miss the dark chocolate tart infused with mint liqueur and offset by orange chocolate ice-cream. The tiny plate of tasty fancies served at the end of the meal makes for a nice, time-honoured touch. + Elegant restaurant steeped in history - Some flavours not quite hitting the heights

Two Fat Ladies in the City 118a Blythswood Street, City Centre (Map 6: C3, 31) 0141 847 0088, twofatladiesrestaurant.com | £16 (set lunch) / £28 (dinner)

The city centre branch of the Two Fats has a pleasingly genteel feel. Black castiron fish scales snake their way around the outside of the restaurant – a nice, inviting feature. Inside the small, narrow dining room has a time-honoured style, which could lend itself well to special occasions or romantic evenings. The sterling silver cutlery, smart waiting staff in well-pressed aprons, and cool jazz on the stereo add to the classy atmosphere. Snazzy seafood dishes dominate – with a couple of meat and vegetable options – such as a small starter of shredded kohlrabi and crab, made memorable by sweet pomegranate purée against slightly bitter sesame seeds and tahini – a beautiful symmetry of flavours. Mains include halibut fillet with a wonderful coriander and lemon crust served with chorizo cassoulet, or whole roast sea bream stuffed with wild mushrooms, shallots and thyme. Dessert is a musthave course, offering delights such as creamy cheesecake with smashed kiwi, balanced against crunchy biscuit and crushed Brazil nuts – capable of sending sweet-lovers into a state of nirvana. + Some very nice dishes - Dining room a little cramped

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FRENCH

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GLASGOW

FRENCH In a city that excels in multicultural dining, it remains a surprise that French dining-out options are slim. But while the number of Gallic restaurants in Glasgow is limited to only a handful, there is evidence of some skilful cooking and topquality sourcing – signs the scene’s star could be rising. This year welcomes two new additions to the list, bringing some old-school Parisian charm to proceedings. Lunch deals are where it’s at for those looking to save some money but still enjoy classical French cooking. Reviewer: Gabriella Bennett

NEW Atlantic Bar & Brasserie Lower Ground, 12–16 St Vincent Place, City Centre (Map 6: F4, 120) 0141 221 0220, atlanticbrasserie.co.uk | £9.95 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)

The newest addition to Glasgow’s Gallic dining scene, the Atlantic occupies the space underneath the Anchor Line, another nautically titled venue belonging to the same Di Maggio’s family. Décor is nostalgic but not nauseatingly so – there’s an influence of art deco with oversized mirrors and vintage-style lighting for atmosphere, and just a hint of a kitsch 1970s department store café in the form of natty upholstered chairs. Every region in France has been given a nod in the menu, which hosts a dizzying number of dishes. As well as main options, patrons can also choose from the rotisserie, where whole chickens are marinated then roasted and served

with sides such as goose-fat potatoes. From the starters, a classic steak tartare excels with its cool, metallic qualities, and a baked mushroom fricassee boasts exactly the amount of butter and seasoning you would expect from a French kitchen. Other highlights include a good value pre-theatre and Sunday lunch menu – and the beautifully tiled floor deserves a round of applause all to itself. + Classy establishment with glamorous credentials - Menu a bit overwhelming with choice

Le Bistro Beaumartin As this guide was going to press, Le Bistro Beaumartin was on the verge of opening up in new premises after its move from the city centre spot where it had been serving up Glasgow’s most Gallic cuisine since 2012. Co-owned by Frenchman Richard Dupupet, along with the Alpine-styled Le Chalet Beaumartin, the bistro is named after his family home in Burgundy. Wherever they finally set up, diners can expect classic French bistro food in an informal atmosphere, cooked up by Angus-born chef Andrew Stott who spent many a year in France. From onion soup and frogs’ legs to snails and boeuf bourguignon, there’s a focus on the most French of French dishes, as well as a utilisation of local produce, from the likes of venison and pheasant terrine to locally caught fish specials. There’s a hope, too, that they will bring back their popular cabaret nights – especially the Edith Piaf homage.

La Bonne Auberge 161 West Nile Street, City Centre (Map 6: F2, 27) 0141 352 8310, labonneauberge.co.uk | £16.95 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

It’s easy to banish all hotel restaurants to the sin bin of culinary experiences, but

La Bonne Auberge is a little different. Attached to a Holiday Inn for the last 20 of its impressive 40 years of life, the number of solo diners at tables proves the hotel’s close presence, but the restaurant also remains popular with clientele keen to check out the nearby culture (the Theatre Royal and Royal Concert Hall are within talking distance) before or after their dinner. Its interiors may feel a little corporate, with brick cladding and fussy artwork on the walls, but its food features plenty of skilful cooking and dainty, attractive presentation. A pretty plate of cured smoked salmon with horseradish and cream cheese works well, as does confit duck with poached egg, and a main course of Scotch lamb comes brilliantly pink and expertly seasoned. La Bonne Auberge’s prices are at the higher end of the scale, but there’s a decent prix fixe menu served all day that allows diners a choice of most of its accomplished dishes. + Meat is cooked with flair and precision - Restaurant lacking a little soul

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Brian Maule at Chardon d’Or

176 West Regent Street, City Centre (Map 6: C3, 34) 0141 248 3801, brianmaule.com | Closed Sun | £20.50 (set lunch) / £33 (dinner)

For a taste of exquisite French food, it’s hard to find somewhere with a better reputation – or a more established fan base – than Brian Maule at Chardon d’Or. Chef-proprietor Maule, who trained under the watchful eye of Michel Roux Jr at Le Gavroche before becoming the head chef there, has arguably served up Glasgow’s closest thing to Michelin-starred food for 20 years – so it remains a mystery to many that this fine-dining destination has not yet secured the industry’s top accolade. Dishes take their lead from Paris’s top restaurants, combining confident and simple cooking with punchy flavours and classic presentation. A starter of fried squid, with a perfect ball of fettuccine pasta and crisp pork belly slab, works brilliantly thanks to its medley of crunch and tenderness, while a main of sea bream with prawn and crab dumplings floating in a shellfish jus provides a startling contrast. Chardon d’Or’s interiors are fittingly formal, making it an especially good place to visit for a special celebratory occasion. Perhaps 2016 will be the year Maule – and Glasgow – finally ascends to the Michelin stars. + Seriously skilful cooking - Not the place for a casual bite in your jeans

Le Chalet Beaumartin 518 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: E1, 58) 0141 237 3363, lechaletbeaumartin.co.uk | Closed Sun/ Mon | £11 (set lunch) / £11 (dinner)

Atlantic Bar & Brasserie: say bonjour to the new French place in town

From its pine-clad walls and skis used as interior decoration to a basket of baguettes warming on a log-burning stove (yes, really) – the only place more French than Le Chalet Beaumartin might just be France itself. A sister venue to Bistro Beaumartin, a bigger premises in the city centre, this West End sibling is a cosy, intimate space made homely with French memorabilia and a buzzy vibe. Menus are small and without set starters or main courses – instead, dishes come out as they are ready from the restaurant’s minuscule kitchen. A cold green bean, potato and ham salad is a good partner to posh cheese and cured ham on toast, otherwise known as tartine. The threecheese fondue, featuring Emmental, Comte and Gruyère Suisse, plus a good

✱ HITLIST

FRENCH ✱ Brian Maule at Chardon d’Or Upmarket fine-dining restaurant with Chef Maule and his team serving classic French food in suitably formal environs. glug of wine, happily feeds two with an enormous bag of bread, while a chocolate fondue with fresh fruit gives more molten enjoyment at the end of the meal. Don’t forget to bring you own booze, and maybe a sled on which to be pulled home after all that rich food. + Charming setting unlike anywhere else in the city - Menu options are pretty limited

Côte Brasserie 41–43 West Nile Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 70) 0141 248 1022, coterestaurants.co.uk | £10.95 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

From first glance on the very unParisian Renfield Street, Côte’s blackand white awning hints at the French décor awaiting. Despite being a chain, Côte’s cool interior feels a world away from a homogenous concept that’s been rolled-out nationwide. Chic lighting, dark booths and classic furniture give the feel that the restaurant arrived in the city years before the summer of 2015, adding a touch of class to this inauspicious part of town. Other touches bolster this impression further – intimate service, plus ingredients sourced from Scottish firms such as Campbells Prime Meat, both help the brasserie segue comfortably into Glasgow’s dining scene. Starters fare well, with France’s equivalent of our Stornoway black pudding, boudin noir, a good match to a second hit of sweetness from caramelised apples. Main courses are a little on the predictable side, yet poulet Breton – a half roasted chicken reared in Brittany – works well as a simple supper paired with frîtes and a side of braised minted peas. Cool simplicity is what the French excel in, and for that, Côte has it covered. + A genuinely cool setting oozing Parisian chic - Food doesn’t quite match the interior

The Honours Malmaison, 278 West George Street, City Centre See Bistros & Brasseries

Hotel du Vin Bistro 1 Devonshire Gardens, West End See Scottish

Restaurant at Blythswood Square 11 Blythswood Square, City Centre See Scottish

The Western Club Restaurant 32 Royal Exchange Square, City Centre See Scottish The List Eating & Drinking Guide 151

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INDIAN Glasgow remains one of the best cities in the UK for a curry. The quality and authenticity of the cooking is a huge part of this, and largely it’s authentically Punjabi food on offer. Punjabi dishes cooked by Punjabi chefs pave the way for some of the best Indian food you could hope to have. With Bangladeshi, South Indian or other regional variations, the food is no poorer or less authentic. And walk into any local curryhouse and you’ll be treated like a long-lost friend, which helps to make dining out in the restaurants in this section a real joy. And the food’s not bad, either. Reviewers: Tara Hepburn, Ruth Marsh, Fraser Wilson

Ashoka • 19 Ashton Lane, West End (Map 9A: C2, 36) 0141 337 1115, ashokarestaurants. com | £7.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner) • 9 Kirk Road, Bearsden (Map 9A: A1, off) 0141 570 0075, ashokarestaurants.com | £18 (dinner) • 268 Clarkston Road, Southside (Map 8: A5, off) 0141 637 0711, ashokasouthside. info | £18 (dinner) • 1284 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: C1, 13) 0141 339 3371, ashokawestend. com | £18 (dinner)

Having put up the familiar Ashoka chain for sale in 2015, with a number of branches sold already to franchisees, Harlequin Leisure Group CEO Sanjay Majhu is divesting himself of the business he bought for £8 million ten years ago. While they might not be long in the umbrella group, the four Ashokas in the city are such a recognisable and reliable brand for Glasgow’s many curry-lovers that there’s unlikely to be wholesale changes at the restaurants any time soon. The original branch close to Kevingrove Art Gallery and Museum has stood on the spot since 1973, making it one of the oldest restaurants in town. From pakora (including the popular haggis variety), bhajis, platters of tasters and tandoori grills to North Indian favourites such as dhansaks, bhonnas, kormas and dopiazas, the similar menus across the branches offer familiar crowd-pleasing favourites that have been drawing happy diners in for decades. While not all branches open for lunch, there are generally decent deals available for midweek dining or takeaways. + Consistently reliable curries - Somewhat uncertain future

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Babu Bombay Street Kitchen

186 West Regent Street, City Centre (Map 6: C3, 33) 0141 204 4042, babukitchen.com | Closed Sun | £5.50 (set lunch) / £12 (dinner)

One of Glasgow’s best street-food scene operatives, Babu can easily be ranked as one of the city’s best providers of authentic Indian cuisine. From compact premises close to Blythswood Square come top Indian snacks in surroundings suited to those looking to grab something fresh, innovative and authentic on the go. Now with a sit-in area to boot, diners are sure to be impressed with the fresh, unique and satisfying food here. With a range of original sandwiches and wraps using bread, puris and rotis, Babu also offer snack pots made up of rice and curry, or ‘dahl of the day’ – where authentic ingredients help to

Mother India’s Café (page 154): expect to queue to taste top-quality curries from the renowned group

create explosive flavour combinations to delight diners. And for those all caffeined out, real chai is available almost on tap. Whether it’s their tiffin service for the office lunch, sampling their wares on the go, or sitting at one of the delicately poised tables within this tiny enticing space, this is a restaurant Indian food lovers will return to again and again. The charming, attentive staff give Babu – unusually for the city centre – the feel of a friendly neighbourhood haunt. + Excellent food - Tiny plastic seat

Balbir’s 7 Church Street, West End (Map 9A: B3, 19) 0141 339 7711, balbirs.co.uk | £22.50 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Balbir’s is an elegant example of what modern Indian cuisine is all about, with impressive, artistic décor bringing some wow factor to the West End curry scene, all backed up by the food on offer. Effortless, professional, and friendly service makes dining here comfortable, while the dazzling surroundings reaffirm that a curry out can feel like a special experience. But Balbir’s isn’t a stuffy affair, with the vast restaurant appealing to customers of all ages and backgrounds. Offering up specialist tastes made to order and to suit specific tastebuds, the best way to experience the kitchen’s skills is the banquet platter for two or more, where the chefs serve up a tasting menu, introducing diners to a wide variety of spicy flavours. Back on the more traditional menu, the fish pakora and bhatura chana are delicious starters, followed by the delightful Goanese fish curry or lamb rogan josh with accompaniments for complete satisfaction. And for those who like a bit of heat, why not try the chicken xacuti – a traditional Goanese curry with coconut, tamarind and sun-dried chilli which can be made as hot as you like – think extra, extra hot. + The full experience - Not the cheapest curryhouse in town

Banana Leaf 76B Old Dumbarton Road, West End (Map 9B: B1, 8) 0141 334 4445, bananaleaf-glasgow.co.uk | £7/£7.50/£8 (set lunch) / £7 (dinner)

It might not be much to look at, but Banana Leaf on Old Dumbarton Road serves up one of the best value and tastiest curries in Glasgow. Diners are met at first with a takeaway counter, but a quick word with staff and they’ll ask you to go next door, where slightly cramped surroundings that remind you of your gran’s kitchen play host to a tasty dining experience. With a varied Southern Indian menu, Banana Leaf offers up authentic tastes for takeaway or sit-in. And with a lenient bring-yourown-booze policy, this is a venue ideal for those on a budget. The chicken 65 is a fine alternative to the typical chicken pakora starter, with a fresh, tangy salsa to accompany. Foot-long dosas with pickles and dipping sauces also offer up a tasty appetiser with a difference, but it is the variety of mains on offer that will please curry lovers. And thrifty diners will love the set meal options, with great quality and value throughout. A firm favourite with students, this will be a new favourite for anyone who stumbles across it. + Excellent, great-value food - Cramped surroundings

Café India 29 Albion Street, Merchant City (Map 7: C3, 33) 0141 552 5115, cafeindiaglasgow. com | £9.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Café India, located on Albion Street, seems artfully designed to pick up the footfall from Merchant City’s nearby drinking establishments. The aesthetic inside is more modern cocktail bar than Indian restaurant, and the venue boasts a programme of events to match. Group cookery classes and karaoke nights draw in stag and hen groups at the weekends. Not that this should bother the average punter – they have a separate function room for events. This jack-of-all-trades approach extends itself to the menu, which features a selection

of European dishes (such as fish and chips) alongside traditional Indian offerings. It would be easy to mistake this approach as a lack of confidence in what they should be doing best, however the kitchen’s treatment of classic as well as more unusual Indian dishes is accomplished. The thorough menu offers a traditional list of curry sauces that can be customized with chicken, lamb, prawn or vegetable. A section of chef recommendations veers into more unfamiliar territory with great success, where South Indian garlic chilli’s coconut sauce is delicately fragrant with a fresh sweet chilli kick. + Tandoori offerings - European dishes on the menu

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Charcoals

26A Renfield Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 72) 0141 221 9251, charcoals.co.uk | N/A | £6.95 (set lunch) / £14.50 (dinner)

Renfield Street is far from the first place that springs to mind when looking for great places to eat in town. But head down towards Central Station and you’ll find the appealingly lit Charcoals. With top-notch customer service from the off, comfortable surroundings, and a fantastic buzz from the kitchen permeating the room, the boutique eatery is a place you’ll want to take your time in. Such is the warmth of the staff, don’t be surprised to be given one or two additional starters free – a simple gesture, but one that makes you feel like a VIP diner, but then every diner appears to be important here. An array of fine starters, including tandoori specials, offer a great introduction to the chef’s skills, with the succulent, delicate tastes of his chicken tikka special, or connoisseurs lamb – a great main attraction. Beautiful accompaniments are plenty, including seven styles of naan, and the massala poppadums are a revelation. A fine place to seek out for a great dinner, and a welcome, spicy haven in the busy city centre. + Exceptional service - Looking on to a very busy Renfield St

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In association with

Charcoals Café 74 Trongate, Merchant City (Map 7: C3, 36) 0141 258 6482, charcoalscafe.co.uk | £6.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Charcoal’s Café on Trongate is a smaller, more informal version of the awardwinning Charcoals on Renfield Street. Leather booths and dark wood tables set the tone for this chilled-out and efficient little eatery. The relaxed vibe extends to the menu where diners can take a tapas approach, ordering a selection of small plates or stick to the old starter and main routine. Staff are amenable and attentive, excited about the menu and happy to recommend. The selection makes good use of the café’s tandoor oven, with even the introductory poppadums – gently spiced and less oily than usual – benefiting from the traditional cooking method. Starters are particularly accomplished – the vegetable samosa arrives topped with a lightly spiced chickpea dhal, which offers a tantalising clue to the quality of the main courses. Delicious paneer tikka is also deserving of mention, its chunks of triangular paneer coated in a sticky marinade and baked until tender. Like a number of the dishes on the menu, and the restaurant on the whole, it seems to add up to more than a sum of its parts. + Tandoori poppadums - Staff almost too attentive

Dakhin 89 Candleriggs, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 19) 0141 553 2585, dakhin.com | £9.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Dakhin sits on the opposite side of Candleriggs from its sister restaurant, the Dhabba. In terms of culinary influences, however, it’s miles away. Dakhin’s South Indian menu is more gently spiced and fragrant than your standard Indian restaurant. Main course sauces make frequent use of coconut milk, mustard seeds and black pepper, adapted to allow chicken, lamb, vegetables or seafood to shine. The particularly impressive seafood section reflects the restaurant’s commitment to the traditions of coastal South India and Dakhin also offers an entirely gluten-free menu, with breads made with rice flour and starters battered in light chickpea flour. Rather than limiting their bread selection, this has encouraged chefs to get creative, with their large paper dosas (available stuffed or plain) the most impressive in the city. Cooked like a crêpe and rolled thinly into cylinders, they can be ordered in sizes up to three-feet long. Attention to detail is applied right across the menu, where accompaniments such as a pacchakari salad (tomato, radish, carrot, cucumber and red onion in a lemon dressing) are as good a reflection of the chefs at work as some of the pricier mains. + Genuinely unique menu - Extra charge for accompanying sauces on some dishes

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The Den at Dining In with Mother India

1347 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: C1, 6) 0141 334 3815, motherindiaglasgow.co.uk | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Immediately adjacent to their popular café on Argyle Street sits perhaps the most accomplished of all Mother India’s successful ventures. This delicatessenbistro hybrid offers, on one side of the room, a deli counter catering for locals with an array of exotic delights: fresh herbs, Indian vegetables, recipe cards and ready-made dishes to heat up at home. The other side of the room is populated by diners choosing from a short but innovative menu (staff are also happy to cook up anything from the more extensive takeaway menu if you

✱ HITLIST

INDIAN ✱ Babu Bombay Street Kitchen An authentic slice of Indian street-food cuisine and hospitality, all wrapped up in one tiny bundle. ✱ Charcoals With a warm, friendly welcome, and top-notch food, Charcoals is a city centre curry haven that makes diners feel like VIPs.

✱ The Den at Dining In with Mother India From the awardwinning Mother India group, this cosy diner and deli is a unique way to experience top Indian cuisine. ✱ The Dhabba This contemporary Merchant City curryhouse dishes up orginal and creative North Indian specialities. ✱ Mother India’s Café Wildly popular branch of the Mother India family, offering tapas-style portions of immaculately spiced dishes. ✱ Ranjit’s Kitchen A modest operation serving up deliciously authentic Indian cuisine on the Southside.

wish). This duality creates a convivial community atmosphere, giving the experience a warmer charm than would be possible in the restaurant itself. The menu is well-conceived, full of original dishes delivered exceptionally well, and there is no sense that sundries are an afterthought thanks to an interesting and enticing bread selection – radish paratha, anyone? Even more ordinary options such as the dhal starter made with black lentils is so delicately balanced and flavoursome that it lingers in the mind for days afterwards . . . perhaps they have a recipe card for it. + Innovative menu - Strange wall art

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EDINBURGH

GLASGOW

3-5 Infirmary St Old Town , Edinburgh EH1 1LT 0131 524 9801

1355 Argyle Street Glasgow G3 7RU 0141 339 9145

The Dhabba

44 Candleriggs, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 29) 0141 553 1249, thedhabba.com | £9.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Merchant City plays host to a number of great eating and drinking establishments, with a strong Indian contingent. What sets the Dhabba apart, not only from its neighbours but from much of the city’s curryhouses, is its original and creative North Indian menu. Nothing feels like an afterthought. Rices, breads and accompanying sauces have been given as much attention as main courses. You will find yourself wanting to hold on to the trio of dips that come with the complimentary poppadum crisps. The simple tandoori platters (partnered with your choice of suggested sauces) are a particularly good reflection of the quality of ingredients being used in the kitchen. The décor is sparse, serene and

Monir’s inventive home-style cooking and familial attitude to food has set a standard for Indian dining in Scotland that is yet to be surpassed THE LIST Special Eating & Drinking Award Winner 2015

www.motherindia.co.uk

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expensive. Chunky wooden tables are generously arranged over mosaicked tiles – no attempt is being made to cram in as many covers as possible. The glass frontage gives diners a noiseless view of Candleriggs’ busiest corner. Slightly higher in price than other Glasgow Indian restaurants, the Dhabba is certainly worth the few pounds extra for spice-lovers who are looking for some top-quality, unique cuisine. + Extremely high-quality ingredients - Menu milder than standard

Green Chilli Café 1293 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: C2, 12) 0141 337 6378, greenchillicafe. com | Closed Mon | £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Finnieston plays host to a healthy selection of Glasgow’s finest Indian restaurants. Green Chilli Café, immediately opposite Ashoka and a short walk from Mother India has been helped rather than hindered by the competition. The thorough menu can be served tapas style (Tapas Madness on Monday and Tuesday evenings offers a selection of starters and curries at just £2.50 a plate) or as traditional main courses. Sauces are well devised and care has been taken to ensure they are served with the most appropriate meat or vegetable. The paneer makhni for example is a perfect combination, the cheese bringing out a creaminess in a sauce ordinarily paired with lentils. For diners who prefer to have it their way, a section of ‘old favourites’ can be mixed and matched with you choice of meat or veg. The main restaurant is situated on the upper level allowing diners to watch the hubbub of Argyle Street from an elevated position. Depending on where you are seated you can even glimpse the Glasgow University tower through the tenements opposite. + Good vegetarian selection - Tapas portions could be a bit bigger

Kebabish Grill 323–325 Victoria Road, Southside (Map 8: D2, 10) 0141 424 1879, kebabish-grill. co.uk | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Kebabish Grill’s menu proudly states that the restaurant has the longest

TIPLIST FOR PIZZA

charcoal grill in Scotland. This might seem slightly incongruous if you plan on ordering from the Indian section of the menu – the heady barbecue aromas may not necessarily put you in the mood for a curry, especially with the spectacle of the open-plan kitchen allowing diners to watch the flames dance from the grill, tempting them towards the fired feasts. Juicy steaks and burgers line up alongside curryhouse favourites such as masalas and jalfrezis, which can be cooked up with lamb or chicken depending on preference. Vegetarians are, somewhat surprisingly, well catered for with 15 different curry options, all standalone and well devised rather than samey versions of one and other. A strict no-alcohol policy keeps the tables packed with local Southside families rather than doubling up as pre-night out eatery. The grill is put to good use in a number of the Indian options as well, with smoky paneer and lightly charred naan breads just some of the foods feeling the flame-licked benefit. + Smoky grilled naan bread - Very brightly lit

Koh-i-Noor 235 North Street, West End (Map 9B: G2, 52) 0141 221 1555 / 0141 204 1444, koh-i-noor-glasgow.co.uk | £8.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Whether it’s the warm welcome and handshake when you walk in the door, the slightly aged yet traditional surroundings, or the smell of a veritable Indian feast that awaits, Koh-I-Noor on Glasgow’s West End–City Centre border is a mainstay of the local Indian restaurant scene – indeed, it is the city’s longest running curryhouse. There is plenty on offer, from a fantastic value buffet to a specially tailored à la carte menu, both offering dishes packing in the spicy flavours. An array of starters, including bajis, pakoras, gulab jamon, and even a hearty dhal soup, are followed by a great display of curries – lamb rogan josh is a well-balanced, warming example with a nice tang of heat. Numerous desserts include a selection of fresh ice-cream to help you cool off. As busy inside as it is outside at this Charing Cross venue, the engaging staff – well versed in catering for the large parties enjoying the buffet – help make this an enjoyable dining experience. + Lots of variety - Dated décor

KoolBa • Delizique Beautiful homebaked dishes and top-notch pizzas dished up within a quirky West End interior. 136 • Firebird A neighbourhood institution close to Kelvingrove Museum, with great pizza and a welcoming vibe for all. 131 • Gambrino Bustling and friendly Kelvinbridge Italian restaurant, with an unfussy menu featuring great pizzas. 158 • La Favorita Delivered Woodﬁred pizza takeaway makes impressive pizza – plus there’s a great-value house wine. 158 • The Little Café Traditional Italian café with an emphasis on simplicity, offering excellent pizzas, salads and ciabattas. 138 • Paesano Pizza Newcomer’s bustling tables and open kitchen play host to incredibly affordable Neapolitan artisan pizza. 159

109 Candleriggs, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 16) 0141 552 2777, koolba.com | Closed Mon | £9.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

KoolBa in Merchant City is one of Glasgow’s most reputable curryhouses. The décor is warm and modern, and space is used generously, with chunky wooden tables large enough to accommodate big groups or even just large appetites. The menu is an interesting combination of Persian and Indian cuisine, with starters including hummus with pitta bread, pooris and pakora. The chefs achieve a real spice fusion which means diners can move between Persian and Indian options without it ever feeling incongruous. The selection of kebabs as Persian mains are an understandable area of pride for the restaurant – large chunks of chicken or lamb are muddled with pepper and onion on skewers, marinated in an aromatic spice blend then charred. Indian options are pretty familiar (bhuna, biryani) although a commitment to fresh high-quality ingredients comes through in each dish. Wines have been seriously considered and staff are well

informed on the dishes and drinks that go well together, and their beer selection has a huge variety of bottled global lagers. + Fusion dining - Deciding between cuisines

Little Curry House 41 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: B3, 23) 0141 339 1339, littlecurryhouse. co.uk | £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Byres Road’s Little Curry House certainly makes the most of its limited space, with a mezzanine dining level and an open-plan kitchen ensuring that every inch of the small restaurant is being utilised. They also operate a successful delivery and takeaway service from the same kitchen, the comings and goings of which are obvious when you first come in, although virtually imperceptible once seated. The dining area has a cosy sociable atmosphere making the kitchen hubbub soon feel miles – rather than metres – away. The menu feels equally homely, a satisfying mix of recognisable choices (chicken korma, chana daal) and genuinely unique offerings. Potato and paneer pakora is an unexpected highlight of the starter selection. In terms of main courses, king prawn with dill and ginger is a showpiece of well-matched flavours, evenly balanced enough to allow each aspect to shine. There’s no let up in quality when it comes to accompaniments, with a particularly laudable bread list – the peshwari naan, for example, is light and subtly flavoured rather than heavy and sweet. + Warm convivial atmosphere - Entrance is a bit of a bottleneck

Masala Twist 192–194 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: C2, 37) 0141 339 3777, masalatwist. co.uk | £6.95 (buffet set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

With startling offerings such as jaisalmeri camel curry and kangarooe-seekh alongside all the established classics, this Byres Road favourite certainly lives up to its name. Its décor a smile-inducing mix of Birds Custardyellow sofas and walls decked out with vintage Indian portraits and trinkets, the feeling is very much that you’ve arrived in the living room of an eccentric aunt – something the beamingly friendly welcome backs up. Start with smoky aubergine fritters slicked in chilli sauce or irresistible fusion food in the form of haggis pakora. From the mains, go local with a zyakedar hiran venison curry (a surprisingly tricky dish to find in Scotland) or Scottish monkfish served Goan-style in a sweet stew laced with coconut and mustard seeds. Pair them with some of the more unusual sides – saffron and clove-infused basmati or a melting cheese naan. With other Scottish classics such as mince and tatties given the Indian spice treatment, Masala Twist manages the difficult task of pulling off novelty cuisine that makes you want to lick your plate clean. + Classic Scottish ingredients with that promised twist - Punjabi chicken a bit lacklustre

Masala Twist City Centre 261 Hope Street, City Centre (Map 6: E2, 29) 0141 332 6002, masalatwist.co.uk/ centre | £6.95 (set buffet lunch) / £18 (dinner)

There is no shortage of eateries in Glasgow’s city centre, but sift through the brightly lit chains and fast food joints and there are places with real substance – such as Masala Twist’s second operation in town (a sister restaurant is on Byres Road), just off the main Sauchiehall drag. From the second you open the door to this light, airy, well laid-out restaurant,

the warming, spicy smells of freshly cooked dishes wafts over you. Staff will help lead you through a menu that is plentiful and varied, offering all the usual suspects, from four types of pakoras to chicken chaat and enjoyable tikka starters, as well as favourites from the tandoor. Masala Twist also offers a wider choice of more unfamiliar, intriguing dishes, including the subzi mandi si (or vegetarian) range, and dishes using exotic meats such as venison, rabbit or even camel. There is also their claim to ‘Scotland’s hottest curry’ using eight of the world’s spiciest chillies, which is sure to see diners reach for the wellstocked bar. + A city centre beacon of spice - Other rude diners – expertly dealt with by staff

Mother India 28 Westminster Terrace, Sauchiehall Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 32) 0141 221 1663, motherindiaglasgow.co.uk | £12.50 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

When looking for the king of curries in Glasgow, you could do far worse than turning to your mother. Mother India, a long-standing resident in now food-obsessed Finnieston, is a winning blend of indulgent dining, fantastic food, and five-star service. With rich, elegant surroundings featuring original Mackintosh furniture and wood-panelled walls, the dining experience at this popular restaurant feels indulgent while still relaxed and comfortable. Great service from the off makes you feel at home, while the splendid scents coming from the kitchen, and bustle of the dining room soon have you anticipating a culinary adventure. An array of authentic recipes adorn the menu, with choices far surpassing a selection of pakoras, tikkas, and chasnis, although such familiar favourites are on offer. The king prawn and monkfish with ginger and dill is a sublime creation, while the butter chicken could make you weak at the knees it’s so good. Chilli garlic chicken, which you can adapt to your preference in heat levels, is a must for spice fans. After a visit here you’ll be sure to crown Mother India the king – or queen – of curries. + The elegant surroundings - A wee bit tight for space in places

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Mother India’s Café

1355 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: C1, 5) 0141 339 9145, motherindia.co.uk | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

As the queues that snake around the corner on any given Saturday night testify, Mother India’s Café is one of the jewels in Glasgow’s curry crown with a popularity that shows no signs of waning. The tapas-style portions are a stroke of genius, allowing diners to indulge in the vivid variety of flavours on offer – as far away from the identikit saucing of a bog-standard curryhouse as it’s possible to get. A special of smoked chicken and green peas is next-level comfort food, a perfect foil to earthy, garlicky lamb saag and lip-puckering chicken achari, slow-cooked in lime pickle. Veggies are well-served with pleasingly squeaky paneer pakora and copper pans of densely creamy dhal makahni, while a ghee-glazed missi naan hiding layers of potato and rice cut through with pickled lemon and roast cashews is the pick of the sides. Take in the view of the Kelvingrove Museum opposite as you polish off your salted lassi and try not to catch the eye of anyone in the queue desperately coveting your table. + Tapas style works like a dream with Indian food - Brace yourself for a queue

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a familiar and unique range of Indian cuisine. From the very freshly prepared starters to the house speciality main courses, there is a dish to satisfy as well as intrigue any curry fan, beginning with starters such as the light, yet punchy haggis pakora, or delicious spiced haddock. A thali selection offers great value for money with two dishes from an eclectic range coming with rice and chapati for £6.25. From the main menu, slow-cooked Ashton Lane beef is a beautiful, delicate dish that will have you planning a return visit before you’ve even finished. Friendly, charming, attentive staff offer great chat as well as great service, ensuring you’ll leave here with a full belly and a smile on your face. and with food as good as the setting is picturesque, the Wee Curry Shop is a great example of top-quality Indian cuisine coupled with Scottish charm. + Great atmosphere - Not a huge menu choice

The Wee Curry Shop 7 Buccleuch Street, City Centre (Map 6: D1, 23) 0141 353 0777, weecurryshop. co.uk | £5.50 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Usha’s: a dedicated vegetarian menu at this buzzing curryhouse, serving up Indian street food in glam surrounds

New Gandhi 441 Victoria Road, Queenspark, Southside (Map 8: D2, off) 0141 423 8000, gandhi.menu | £6.50 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

Diners will scarcely believe the tranquil experience that awaits in New Gandhi when coming in from hustle and bustle of Victoria Road. A short trip upstairs transports spice lovers to a serene curryhouse with comfortable, elegant surroundings made to feel homely thanks to a warm welcome and the joyful aromas from the nearby kitchen. With a packed menu featuring many spice-fan favourites, New Gandhi also serves up a number of specialties for diners to experience. The chef’s platter for two is a fine way to start and would likely satisfy four. From their specialities, king prawn jammu, cooked with mixed fruit and in a rich sauce, or the salmon mosmi bahar featuring tandoori fish in tangy, spicy sauce are dishes worth seeking out. Classics such as biryanis, kormas and Punjabi dishes will not disappoint, either. Homemade gulab jamun accompanied by a fine artisan coffee on the side is a great way to end. With entertainment also on offer, there is plenty to enjoy here, where style and substance come together for a very enjoyable dining experience. + Top service - Doesn’t get the attention deserves

Punjabi Charing Cross 157–159 North Street, City Centre (Map 9B: G2, 54) 0141 221 3926, punjabicharingcross.co.uk | £5.95 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Since 2011, Punjabi at Charing Cross has prided itself on being a quaint and comfortable setting for good food. But the restaurant has been trading in some form in the city for over three decades, before moving to its new surroundings. An ideal stop-off in the transition from city centre to West End, Punjabi offers hearty, homely dishes and a warm welcome. Freshly made poppadums are placed in front of diners upon entry, with a smile that stays with the server till the end. With a classic backdrop, once a traditional pub, this curryhouse

offers a big dose of good service and an array of South Asian specialities. Dishes to look out for include the haggis pakora starter and the Goanese lamb curry, as well as the mulaidhar chicken. With a variety of freshly made naans and a good selection of side dishes, the menu easily caters for all. Open every day of the week, Punjabi is a hit with nearby office workers and revellers from the Bon Accord next door. + Friendly service - Draught beer

✱

NEW Ranjit’s Kitchen

607 Pollokshaws Road, Southside (Map 8: C2, 9) 0141 423 8222, ranjitskitchen. com | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Another Indian restaurant opens with another claim of providing authentic home cooking. But this time it really is different. Ranjit Kaur, a Punjabi woman who has been cooking samosas and sweets for Asian weddings for years, has opened a modest deli and café in order to share a few of her dishes. The menu consists of a daal and a sabji (veg) dish of the day plus a couple of chickpea and homemade paneer dishes, various fried snacks and a selection of Punjabi teas and coffees. This is not the place to come for a riotous evening of beer and butter chicken, but rather to discover wholesome comfort food, delicate spices and piquant pickles. The light and subtle paneer pakora consists of two thin strips of cheese sandwiching ginger and onion slices, coated in gram flour batter,

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while the three-dish Punjabi thali is a delight – don’t miss the pickled ginger on the side. And chai with a couple of gulab jamun make the perfect finish. The cheery staff make all comers welcome . . . an added bonus to the terrific food. + Lime, chilli and salt pickled ginger - Wooden tables and chairs

Usha’s 2 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: B3, 13) 0844 884 9399, ushas.co.uk | £4.95 (one-course set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

With a menu devised in consultation with former Dorchester Hotel head chef, Usha’s offers up Indian street food with luxe ambitions. Bucking the trend by thriving in a location previously dubbed a restaurant graveyard, its buzzing interior feels like real old-school grandeur – think pillars and vine leaves and well-padded but teeny-tiny booths that will make you feel you’re flying first class. Pani puri, delicate nests of chickpeas, herbs and onions waiting to be doused with a glug of minty fresh chutney are a perfect way to wake up your palate, followed by paper-thin, butter-heavy dosas stuffed with a fiery methi aloo (a steal at under four pounds) and tapas-sized clay pots of salty-sweet paneer Jaipuri or silken okra dopiaza. While some spice lovers may begrudge that its original all-vegetarian menu has been sacrificed to give space to the likes of tandoori lamb chops and Cobra lager-battered sea bass, it’s the skill and ambition of the meat-free offerings that highlight Usha’s as a must-visit in Glasgow’s extensive curry scene. + Addictively good dosas - Meat dishes trumped by the veggie delights

The Wee Curry Shop 29 Ashton Lane, West End (Map 9A: C2, 35) 0141 357 5280, weecurryshopglasgow.co.uk | £6.90 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

There’s a lot of ‘wee’ things on Glasgow’s cobbled Ashton Lane – the wee pub that can house just 16 people, the wee cinema, a wee café. One little cracker is the Wee Curry Shop. This West End favourite continues to offer

With a capacity of just 24 the aptly named Wee Curry Shop caters to a steady stream of city centre diners and Garnethill residents. A short walk from Sauchiehall Street’s pedestrianised thoroughfare, the restaurant serves up Indian dishes at prices which belie the talents of the chefs at work in the open-plan kitchen. Bookshelf wallpaper, dark wood furniture and soft lighting create a homely atmosphere, ensuring the small restaurant feels cosy rather than crammed. Dining here is a fussfree experience beginning with the limited but confident menu, which sees potentially run-of-the-mill options such as chana dhal elevated to something special thanks to a rich tomato sauce and well-balanced fresh heat. Likewise saag paneer, a familiar face in the veggie section, is taken up a notch by adding broccoli, giving the dish a bit of bite and a depth of flavour it can so easily lack. Accompaniments equally excel – aloo paratha is noteworthy, stuffed with gently spiced potatoes, so easily stodgy elsewhere here it remains deliciously flaky and light. + Theatre of an open-plan kitchen - No cutlery change between courses

Yadgar Kebab House 148 Calder Street, Southside (Map 8: D1, off) 0141 424 3722 | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

While various shops, families and public swimming pools have come and gone on Calder Street, the Yadgar has been a beacon of reliability. Don’t be fooled by its somewhat scruffy appearance, fancy table cloths and mood music are too often used to distract from lacklustre cooking – but not here. Chana is an ever present dish in the daily line-up of meat and veg specials, as are pilau rice, a stack of samosas and 12-inch poppadums. Dishes are for most part spicy, rustic and tasty. The chicken is slow cooked on the bone, off which it falls with almost no persuasion, and saag is smooth, creamy and comforting with the just-blackened naan. The Yadgar, having changed hands a couple of times over the decades, may not be quite at its zenith, but it has expanded the menu to offer lassis and a range of desserts alongside ever popular doners. And it still serves some of the best home-style curries the city has to offer. If spice and authenticity are what you are after, this is for you. + Big on flavour - Not so big on presentation The List Eating & Drinking Guide 155

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ITALIAN

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Glasgow’s Italian dining scene may have never been more diverse. While the classic trattoria-style restaurants are still thriving, there’s a lot more to the city’s eating-out options than pasta and pizza. Many places now have a focus on smaller dishes and equal importance is placed on the wine list, with more unusual regional Italian wines available by the glass. Alongside an eclectic array of delicatessens offering imported Italian produce, Scottish ingredients are also very much to the fore, with a fair few menus bringing flavours of the Mediterranean to fresh, local meat and seafood, as well as adding an Italian angle to traditional Scottish dishes. Reviewers: Sucheta Dutt, Miranda Heggie, Piers Hunt

Alla Italia 194 Pitt Street, City Centre (Map 6: C2, 14) 0141 332 5300, allaitalia.co.uk | £6.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Having opened in 2014 as sister restaurant to the longer established Alla Turca, it can be difficult to tell where one restaurant ends and the other begins, especially on quieter evenings when only the upstairs Turkish part is used. Despite a little confusion, this is by no means a bad thing, as diners can mix and match from both Italian and Turkish menus, resulting in an interestingly diverse meal. Italian antipasti comes with a selection of cured meats and fresh mozzarella, crispy fried calamari and gooey wild mushroom and mozzarella arancini. Pasta and pizza make up the majority of the mains, though if you fancy venturing further East, a shish kebab of Gressingham duck breast comes with a warmly spiced mushroom and chestnut casserole, and their well-rounded wine list ideally suits both cuisines. For dessert, vanilla and mint panacotta is refreshing and creamy, and the complementary champagne cocktail arriving alongside is a nice touch. Though an unusual balance of East meets West, it’s one that works, tempting one to hope for a little more culinary crossover in individual dishes. + Lots of choice for a varied meal - Service can be relaxed

Amarone 2 Nelson Mandela Place, City Centre (Map 6: F4, 68) 0141 333 1122, amaronerestaurant.co.uk | £13.95 (set

Osteria del Tempo Perso (page 159): elegant and relaxed Merchant City Italian newcomer serving good-value food

lunch) / £20 (dinner)

A sleek, modern-looking basement venue with a good mix of cosy nooks, booths and open tables, Amarone styles itself as the sophisticated elder sibling of the Di Maggio’s chain. The menu offers up a mix of pasta and pizza with some more expensive steak and fish options, which can sometimes feature on the pre-theatre menu. Starter portions are generous, hearty meatballs of pork and beef come in a sweet tomatoey sugo, but for sheer portion size the focaccia lucca cannot be beaten – a 12-inch thin bread base covered in cheese, red onion, pancetta and fried potato, pizza bianche-style. Pasta sauces steer clear of the ‘mince and tomatoes’ route, opting for pancetta, crumbled salsiccia, or in the mezze maniche con stracci, strips of steak, pink in middle, in a glossy red wine sauce that is deep and musky. Fish is served with a promised explosion of ingredients – pan-fried, the sea bream has dry white flaking flesh with a pleasing crisp to the edges. Tiramisù comes as a glass of coffee-flavoured cream, topped with the thinnest of biscuits, so soft it could almost be eaten through a straw. + Sophisticated setting - Erratic portion size

Barolo Grill 92–94 Mitchell Street, City Centre (Map 6: E5, 110) 0141 221 0971, barologrill. co.uk | £13.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Ask around and Barolo Grill sits highly in opinion and regard among many who enjoy eating Italian. Dotted with comfortable booth dining and intimate lighting, it offers a private escape from the noise and busy-ness inevitably found in the heart of the city centre. Serving lunchtime and after-work diners well, with a keenly priced two or threecourse set menu or, with the inclination, indulging in the à la carte that includes dry-aged, locally sourced steaks results in an equally good choice. Both menus attempt to combine the traditional with the creative. Baffling is how the chef manages to create a near-perfect cylindrical shaped frittata to take centre stage with chargrilled chicken in pollo

arrosto. Comforting and delightful is the tortiglioni in crema di finghi e zucchini, too. Legacy lives on here as predecessor L’Ariosto is mentioned by staff likely to be too young to have experienced it, but being in the trade they comprehend a long-lasting reputation means there is a lot to live up to, and Barolo Grill manages it with aplomb. + A city centre dining haven - Re-emerging into the city centre

Battlefield Rest 55 Battlefield Road, Southside (Map 8: D6, 24) 0141 636 6955, battlefieldrest. co.uk | Closed Sun | £9.90 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

The iconic striped tiles in olive and cream on the outside of this former tram waiting room instantly conjure up the romanticism of a bygone era, lending a unique charm to this Italian–Scottish bistro. That’s not to say that Battlefield Rest is in any way old-fashioned. Its stylish interior is elegant yet relaxed, and the menu offers an up-to-date take on traditional Italian offerings. Bubbling pot gambrizo sees juicy king prawns infused with flavours of chilli, garlic and rosemary, served with delicious homemade focaccia to mop up the addictive sauce. Pan-fried fillet of sea bass arrives on beautifully pillowy sea bass and ricotta ravioli, with peas and asparagus adding uplifting freshness. Spaghetti carbonara highlights the enjoyment of a classic well done, with al dente pasta in a not too creamy sauce. Desserts are mainly variations on ice-cream sundaes; those with a serious sweet tooth can indulge in a Regent Moray – tablet ice-cream with shortbread and honey cream. If you’re more into savoury, a cheeseboard of Isle of Mull Cheddar, black crowdie and dolcelatte is another great example of their Scottish and Italian blend. + Interesting and stylish setting - Not much selection for dessert

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Bella Vita

597 Mosspark Boulevard, Southside (Map 9B: A1, off) 0141 882 1144, bellavitaglasgow.co.uk | £6.50 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Walking in early to this Southside Italian, it’s charming to see the chattering team gathered around reception and, after saying a warm hello, they quickly disperse reassuringly ready to start evening service. Traditional, dark red walls with celebrity and celebratory photos, bistro tables and chairs serve to create an intimacy and informality increasingly hard to find. Service is charming, while the food also charms – the Italian sausage penne with a creamy tomato sauce has just the right spice, spiked with the considered addition of very finely chopped, cored tomatoes. The bresaola with rocket and soft mozzarella is extemely satisfying, arriving with delicious toasted Italian bread, while fusilli contandina confirms the care taken over pasta dishes by a deft kitchen. Portions are generous, enough to warrant tempting offers to package what’s left of the pasta for enjoyment at home. This is an affordable place that suits every reason for dining out, meaning why wouldn’t you keep coming back if it’s a really good, honest trattoria you’re looking for? It’s a place locals are proud to have close by, and for those further afield it’s definitely worth a trip. + A place to relax and enjoy great Italian food - A (worthwhile) trip for many

ONLINE LISTINGS For full opening hours, further details on facilities, individual location maps plus web and social media links, go to

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La Brava 679a Clarkston Road, Southside (Map 8: A5, off) 0141 569 6257, la-brava.co.uk | £8.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

There’s a friendly local deli atmosphere in La Brava, as much a place for coffee and cake as a formal meal, eggs and espresso in the morning or a light snack with an Italian craft beer in the afternoon. The menu is assaggini, small plates tapas-style, and the food prepared in the open kitchen or at the deli counter is as comforting and authentic as home cooking. Pick two or three dishes per person from a list split evenly between vegetarian and meat and seafood, while true carnivores can peruse the grill steak section. Arancini rice balls, rice so soft it’s almost creamy with a rich tomato core, can double as a more traditional starter while vitello saltimbocca – tender rose veal topped with crisp pancetta and a sage sauce – can be matched with roast potatoes with salt and rosemary oil, or contrasted, if it’s on special, with lobster ravioli. Finish with one of their own bakes – zuppa italia sees sponge soaked in marsala with chocolate, meringue and fresh cream, or a couple of scoops of Equi’s ice-cream. + Mix-and-match dishes and Italian craft beer - Tables a squeeze when busy

NEW Caffè Parma 30a Hyndland Road, West End (Map 9A, A1, off) 0141 334 3811, caffeparma.co.uk | £12 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

For most Glaswegians who enjoy Italian food, Giovanazzi will be a familiar name. La Parmigiana was opened by the family in 1978, and is still going strong under Sandro, while brother Stefano has managed the Paperino’s brand, which at one time had three prime-site restaurants in town. Stefano’s latest operation, Caffè Parma, proudly declares itself part of the Paperino’s family though it’s now the sole outlet. It’s a striking set-up, sitting between the tennis courts on Hyndland Road, with its crisp, clean and modern interior illuminated by huge windows that showcase the bushy, well-heeled part of town. A mix of lunching ladies, families and sporty types come and go, sampling the accessible menu of enjoyable pizzas, pastas and a few mains. There’s also a blackboarded selection of cicchetti, or snacks, with the likes of crostini with peperonata, pleasantly spiky pork ragù, focaccia with ham, or a rustic Italian sausage – costing a tenner for four, and presented on a wooden board, they’re an enjoyable way to sample the offerings of this enticing Italian. + Great location - Blackboard almost hidden away

Celino’s 620–624 Alexandra Parade, East End (Map 7: D1, off) 0141 554 0523, celinos. com | £9.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Serving Glaswegians for over 30 years, family-run Celino’s offers up a little piece of everything. Traditional breakfast dishes are given an Italian twist with the addition of mozzarella to French toast, and with their breakfast menu served right up until 1pm, it’s an ideal place to spend a couple of hours having a relaxed weekend brunch. For an evening meal, the à la carte features a wide variety of Italian classics, with a strong emphasis on quality of ingredients. Crispy stonebaked pizzas are enhanced with Celino’s secret pizza sauce, and beautifully al dente pastas can be served with a classic Italian sauce, or with more substantial additions such as tiger prawns or strips of fillet steak. If you just can’t choose, Wednesday evening is tapas night, when diners can enjoy a trio of smaller plates from their enticing tapas menu. And if

✱ HITLIST Alasdair Watson Photography

ITALIAN

Alasdair Watson Photography

✱ Bella Vita People are rightly flocking to this excellent trattoria with warm service on Glasgow’s Southside. ✱ Eusebi Deli Bringing a halfcentury of experience to their new West End venue, Eusebi Deli is an emporium of Italian delights. ✱ The Italian Caffè Sleek and stylish modern Italian, with a fantastic range of wines by the glass and enticing array of small dishes designed for sharing.

✱ La Lanterna Long-established, family-run Italian restaurant in the city centre with delicious, skilfully prepared food that is by turns traditional and inventive. ✱ Mora Bar & Kitchen Casual

Alasdair Watson Photography

We’re a fun and slightly fanatical bunch of pizza enthusiasts at La Favorita Delivered. Our ambition, quite simply, is to revolutionise the pizza home delivery market by offering a significantly better product. Gone are the days when pizza was considered a guilty pleasure. From our pizzeria in the West End of Glasgow, we deliver award-winning log-fired pizza to your table within our basement restaurant - or direct to your door in our famous fleet of yellow Fiat 500s. So feel good not guilty. We are the pizza revolution. Join us.

23-25 Gibson Street, Glasgow, G12 8NU | T: 0141 212 6070

www.lafavoritadelivered.com lafavoritadeliverededinburgh

lafavorita _gla

lafavoritadelivered

Italian bar and restaurant in Finnieston, with classy cocktails and a regularly changing menu offering tapas-style or traditional dining.

✱ Paesano Pizza Delicious and authentic, Paesano’s bustling tables and open kitchen play host to incredibly affordable Neapolitan artisan pizza. you want to take a little bit of Italy home with you, the expansive deli counter displays a cornucopia of Italian delights, with a huge range of salamis, artisan cheeses and homemade pâtés, plus a fine selection of oils, vinegars, wine and liqueurs. + Warm, friendly buzz - When full space can be a little tight

Coia’s Café 473–477 Duke Street, East End (Map 7: D1, off) 0141 554 3822, coiascafe.co.uk | £11.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

With its classic blue and gold exterior, the Coia family have been adding a splash of Italian vibrancy to Duke Street since 1928. They obviously know what they’re doing, with a restaurant which is nearly always packed, and a busy chip shop and deli. A starter of bang bang shrimp is nicely spiced, although the chilli mayo served over the prawns is a tad over vinegared. Portions here are huge – a half portion of spaghetti carbonara could easily pass for a generous main, although that’s not to say quantity outweighs quality with the pasta perfectly al dente and the sauce just the right consistency, with copious cubes of pancetta. The dessert menu is an icecream lover’s heaven, with a selection of nostalgic classics (think oysters and snowballs) sundaes and Italian favourites, all served with Coia’s fantastically delicious homemade ice-cream. Very family friendly, the kids’ menu is great The List Eating & Drinking Guide 157

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value – a main course, drink and scoop of ice-cream for a fiver – while the grown ups will appreciate the extensive and interesting Italian wine list. + Amazing homemade ice-cream - Overly large portions

Di Maggio’s • 21 Royal Exchange Square, City Centre (Map 6: F5, 114) 0141 248 2111 | £17 (lunch) / £17 (dinner) • 1038 Pollokshaws Road, Southside (Map 8: A4, 17) 0141 632 7924 | £8.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner) • 61 Ruthven Lane, West End (Map 9A: C1, 42) 0141 334 8560 | £8.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner) • 163 West Nile Street, City Centre (Map 6: F2, 26) 0141 333 4999, dimaggios. co.uk | £8.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

The long-standing Di Maggio’s group have four branches spread across the city, meaning diners are never far from sampling their family-friendly brand of Italian-American food. The cobbled lanes of the West End are home to the original branch opened in 1983, shortly followed by the Shawlands Cross venue. Theatregoers can take advantage of the well-placed Theatreland operation, while hiding behind a revolving door in a small frontage in the corner of Royal Exchange Square is their flagship restaurant. It’s a huge dining space resplendent in 1930s art-deco décor, and easily the most impressive branch in the chain. While sharing the same menu as the city’s other three branches, it is the skill in the kitchen that makes the difference. Italian-American standards dominate the menu, pizza, pasta, burgers and ribs, straightforward enough to satisfy small children and elderly relatives. Starters include deep-fried mozzarella cubes and stuffed mushrooms, bruschetta topped with fresh tomatoes and basil, and gambas pil pil, prawns swimming in butter, chilli and garlic with a chunk of garlic bread for dunking. Main courses come in generous portions, order a pizza and you may be amazed at how much cheese you can eat. Large bowls of pasta in honest sauces, creamy chicken and bacon or spicy sausage and rich tomatoes, are equally filling. If you can find the room, finish with three scoops of ice-cream in different flavours or a homemade dessert, sticky toffee pudding with real cream. + Generous, tasty, family-friendly food - Surprise date stone in the sticky toffee pudding

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NEW Eusebi Deli

152 Park Road, West End (Map 9A: F3, 76) 0141 648 9999, eusebideli.com | £18 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

With a long counter filled with breads, bakes, stews and sauces, sausages and garlic hanging from the ceiling, plus shelves heaving with bottles of fine wine, there is much to impress about Eusebi Deli’s new West End venue. There’s seating in the downstairs snug, but a table in an upstairs window gives a wonderful view of the delights on offer. The menu is balanced with offerings that could either make an afternoon snack or an evening meal, with dishes that allow the quality of the ingredients to shout for themselves – such as 18-month-aged prosciutto and L’umbriaco ham cured in red wine, simply presented on a block with sweet melon jam and the lightest focaccia. Others, such as the deeply rich and beefy ox-cheek ravioli display the considerable skill that is within the kitchen. Pasta is made fresh every day, while the pinza dough, for Eusebi Deli’s Roman-inspired take on the pizza, is made from four flours and proved for 72 hours. To finish, choose from the ornate cakes that gleam like jewels in their cabinet, and wash

Amarone (page 156): Italian food in the city centre with plenty of al fresco potential if the sun’s out

it down with a cup of real Neapolitan coffee. + Peering into the deli counter while waiting for the next course - Sitting a bit close to the buzzing extractor

NEW La Favorita Delivered 22–25 Gibson Street, West End (Map 9A: F3, 74) 0141 212 6070, lafavoritadelivered.com | £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

For connoisseurs of quality pizza, the sight of La Favorita’s bright yellow delivery Fiat 500s on Glasgow’s streets can only be welcome. With two-daymatured pizza dough and an emphasis on authentic Italian ingredients coupled with high-quality Scottish produce, the pizzas that are fired over wood in their custom-built ovens cannot fail to impress. Well-chosen side dishes include crisp light calamari and sweet potato crisps, dusted with parmesan and rosemary, which seem too good to be gluten-free. Pasta dishes are made to order, too, such as rigatoni alla norma of aubergines and basil baked in the oven and topped with creamy ricotta – and, if you choose to sit in the bright and cheery downstairs seating area, the food can be enjoyed with a bottle of wine for a blink-twice £7. Generous deals on different weekdays are worth looking out for, and the desserts are made in-house, too. There is no table service and only one beer on tap, but it is Birra Moretti. Simple but top-quality all round – a winning formula. + Skilfully prepared, authentic pizza - When they say it’s spicy, it’s spicy!

Fratelli Sarti • 42 Renfield Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 71) 0141 572 7000, sarti.co.uk | £11 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner) • 121 Bath Street, City Centre (Map 6: D3, 37) 0141 204 0440, sarti.co.uk | £11 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner) • 133 Wellington Street, City Centre (Map 6: D3, 39) 0141 248 2228, sarti.co.uk | £11 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Housed in the impressive surroundings of a former Victorian bank, Fratelli Sarti’s flagship branch on Renfield street has a traditional trattoria feel with an added dose of grandeur thanks to its high ceilings and chandeliers. Their extensive menu, which is the same in their Bath

Street and Wellington Street restaurants also, features a huge variety of Italian meat, seafood and vegetarian dishes. From their ‘antipasti terra’ section, a starter of involtina mozzarella e speck, a whole mozzarella encased in salty, smoky cured wild boar comes baked in a luscious parmesan and cream sauce, while plump butterflied king prawns are delicately flavoured with garlic and chilli. A main course of padello del marinaio – fisherman’s frying pan – is particularly impressive, served straight from the hob, with mussels, squid and langoustines coming with garlic-rubbed bread to soak up the delicious juices. The selection of desserts vary, and the chalked-up menu can be baffling for non-Italian speakers, although the friendly waiting staff are happy to talk you through the sweet selection. If you fancy brushing up on your language skills though, the Renfield Street branch offers Italian lessons at weekends with a complimentary aperitivo and 10% off your bill if you stay for lunch. + Quality, traditional Italian cooking - Too much choice on the menu

Gambrino 333 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: G2, 81) 0141 339 4111, gambrino. co.uk | £10.90 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

This friendly, buzzing West End restaurant has a real authentic neighbourhood trattoria feel to it, with exposed brickwork and low, soft lighting. The menu is traditional, unfussy Italian food with a strong focus on fresh, local ingredients and using organic produce wherever possible. A starter of grilled vegetable antipasto comes with beautifully crunchy asparagus and succulent slices of grilled aubergine and courgette, and makes an excellent pairing with the meat antipasto for two to share, even if portion sizes are a tad over-generous. Linguine all’aqua pazza sees mussels and prawns, still in shell, on a bed of al dente pasta mixed with squid and scallops, uplifted by a chilli, white wine and garlic sauce. Pizza bases are crisp and fluffy, and all can be made into a calzone on request. A dessert of coppa amarena is delicious, with rich morello cherries and wonderfully creamy homemade vanilla ice-cream – though if you fancy something a little stronger

to round off your meal, they’ve a good selection of liqueurs and a choice of no less that eight grappas. + Fresh, good-quality, uncomplicated cooking - Limited selection of wine by the glass

✱

The Italian Caffè

92 Albion Street, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 23) 0141 552 3186, theitaliancaffe. co.uk | £8.95 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Of the myriad Italian restaurants in Glasgow’s Merchant City, Italian Caffè takes a slightly different approach to dining out. As Glasgow’s only enoteca, meaning wine library, a vast array of popular and lesser-known Italian wines are available by the glass to suit all tastes and budgets. Located a stone’s throw from the City Halls and Old Fruitmarket, it is ideal for those wanting a quick preconcert bite. Their carefully constructed menu of piccolo piatti (small plates) sees an array of dishes that beautifully complement each other, meaning diners can choose a couple to accompany a glass of wine, or select a few more to share. Baked oysters Rockefeller have a lovely blend of spinach, cream and parmesan to offset the saltiness of the seafood, and mini ‘pizzette’ are a great way to enjoy a thin and crispy pizza without feeling overloaded with carbs. For a protein hit, try mixed antipasto platters to enjoy a variety of Italian meats and fish. With a stylish, muted interior and knowledgeable waiting staff, Italian Caffè is a lovely venue for a relaxed and sophisticated evening. + Excellent selection of wines by the glass - Slightly weird artwork

Jamie’s Italian 1 George Square, City Centre (Map 6: G4, 125) 0141 404 2690, jamiesitalian. com | £10.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Not afraid to be paternal, having attended a parliamentary committee advocating the introduction of the forthcoming sugar tax, Jamie’s Italian offering shows us the benefits of eating the Italian way – especially for a weekend lunch when indulging in four courses suits the body best. Quizzing questions are instantly answered with a personal touch at the Glasgow branch sitting prim on George Square, with staff explaing the

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ethos, including Jamie’s desire to make more of fantastic local produce – so a special of Scottish langoustine risotto is enthusiastically promoted by well-versed servers. Jamie’s ambitiously evolving food philosophy encompassing healthy eating, procuring fine British and Italian produce and advocating sustainable business practices are tangible among the staff, menu and on the brand’s website. The crab and avocado bruschetta is nearfaultless, although a minor seasoning adjustment of adding more than just a hint of the lemony gremolata to the already delicious dish would provide the va-va-voom to boost the dish from great to bellissimo. Enticing, enjoyable food that comes in fairly conservative portions at reasonable prices mean four courses is comfortably doable. + Well judged menu, upbeat atmopshere - Music can be too loud

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La Lanterna

35 Hope Street, City Centre (Map 6: D5, 90) 0141 221 9160, lalanterna-glasgow. co.uk | Closed Sun | £12.95 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

A meal at La Lanterna feels like a dining event, with an impressive menu that is both familiar and surprising, along with regular specials of chef Luca Conreno’s invention – dishes that are wonderfully balanced and prepared with great skill. Order the piatta nordico – marinated tuna and swordfish – and be presented with thinly sliced, slightly pink cured fish, light and delicious, with deep-fried courgette flowers. Or start with pasta, where the ravioli really stands out, light and delicate with a rich, smoky stuffing of aubergine and scamorza cheese, or duck and apple, the deep meatiness of the duck cut through with the sweetness of the fruit – clear your plate with disappointment that the little pasta parcels are gone. Saltimbocca alla romana, rose veal cutlets topped with pancetta, mozzarella with a deep, creamy sage and white wine sauce, is sublime – and a nod to Glasgow here with a side of crunchy, twice-fried potatoes. Desserts are luxurious, with the tiramisù – made to owner Christopher Martinolli’s mother’s 40-year-old recipe – surely one of the best in the city.

TIPLIST FOR COFFEE • All That is Coffee A bright, spacious café attached to the WASP artists’ studios serving up coffee of the highest quality. 114 • Artisan Roast The cool serenity of Artisan Roast makes it an ideal spot to hide away with a cup of coffee. 135 • Avenue Coffee With in-house roasted brews at two West End sites, Avenue Coffee are serious about the black stuff. 135 • Coffee, Chocolate & Tea Small Finnieston café with 40 teas and over ﬁve in-house roasted coffees on offer. 142

+ Fantastic food, authentic and inventive - No disabled access

Michaelangelo’s 9 Helena Place, Busby Road, Southside (Map 8: A5, off) 0141 638 7772, michaelangelosglasgow.co.uk | £9.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Tucked behind an unassuming frontage, Michaelangelo’s opens into a chic dining space and a warm haven of Italian cuisine. The kitchen team headed by Federico Volpi approach their work with gusto, working with good local ingredients, baking bread and making pasta from scratch daily – and it shows in the quality of the food. Familiar starters such as melanzane alla parmigiana are presented with a flourish, creamy aubergine topped with oozing cheese, but the Scottish mussels, fresh and fat, in garlic and white wine cream sauce and a chunk of fresh baked bread for dunking, really stand out. Mains are equally impressive. Pollo in pardella, with chicken so tender the knife goes through it like butter, in a white wine and rosemary sauce, beautifully presented with a shower of green and purple shoots, is complemented by a heap of fresh spaghetti rich with garlic and pepperoncino. Tagliatelle Roma Mia, the signature dish that is a nod to Michaelangelo’s well-loved antecedent Roma Mia, has thin ribbons of pasta with a rich ragù and three different Italian sausages, chilli and fennel, so each mouthful is deliciously different. + Delicious fresh seafood - Cheesecake a bit ho-hum

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NEW Mora Bar & Kitchen

1166–1170 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 17) 0141 560 2070, morabarandkitchen.com | £17.50 (lunch) / £17.50 (dinner)

Having recently undergone a rebranding, Mora Bar and Kitchen, formerly Lamora, is an understatedly classy bar-restaurant in the heart of Glasgow’s Finnieston area. It’s a reassuringly small menu for an Italian diner, where a selection of starters or smaller versions of mains can be ordered to share tapas-style over drinks. For something more substantial, their grill section offers some serious protein, with rib-eye steak or chilli and garlic grilled king prawns. Around half a dozen pizzas come on a handmade base with a variety of enticing toppings. Steamed mussels are served with a tomato, garlic and chilli sauce, which fairly packs a punch with bold flavours and a spicy kick. Lobster ravioli is more subtle, but equally delicious, with the addition of basil giving a savoury bite to a tomato and cream reduction. Mora’s innovative use of flavours reaches into their cocktail menu of Italian classics as well as ‘Mora favourites’, with more unusual ingredients, such as rosemary-infused gin. If you’re more of a traditionalist drinker, a comprehensive list of Italian wines and a good beer selection is also on offer. + Small but versatile menu - Slightly dubious background music

the meal. The open kitchen gives a good view of the chefs at work and the red-brick mouth of Glasgow’s first-ever wood-fired pizza oven. The menu has been honed over the half century of the restaurant’s life, crostini O Sole Mio – ciabatta with figs and parma ham, with sharp, fresh mint leaves and sweetened with a drizzle of honey – is wonderfully simple and quite delicious. Black squid ink spaghetti with clams is light and fresh as the sea, delicately flavoured with garlic and olive oil, while the stew of Tuscan sausage and green lentils, piping hot and brimming with diced veg, is a homely bowl of comfort food. Of course, with such a venerable pizza oven the hand-stretched pizza has to be tried – the pulcinella is topped with a fine combination of crumbled salsiccia, mushrooms and delicious blobs of creamy, salty gorgonzola. + Delicious hand-stretched pizza - Bit draughty at the window

pizzas all priced between £5 and £8, and a handful of sides, salad and olives. There are also two specials on the board. And that’s it – but far from all, because the pizza is the most authentic Neapolitan pizza to be had in the city. The kitchen, with its crew – hailing from Naples of course – makes two-day-proved dough from regional Caputo 00 flour, while the Strianese tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella and olive oil all come from Campania. It’s not just the ingredients though, it’s the way they are put together. The No. 3 comes with a deep, rounded saltiness from its topping of tomato sugo, olives, anchovies, garlic and capers, while the special of iron-rich broccoli flowers and coarse fennel sausage, served without sugo pizza bianco-style, is fresh, earthy and simply delicious, all served on handshaped dough that gives a soft, crisp light crust. + Delicious, quick, artisan pizza - No bookings so first come is first served

NEW Osteria del Tempo Perso

Panevino

17 John Street, Merchant City (Map 7: B1, 7) 0141 552 6009, osteriadeltempoperso.info/glasgow/#1 | £8.50 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

1075 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 38) 0141 221 1136, panevino.co.uk | £9 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Having opened in 2015 in Glasgow’s Merchant City, Osteria del Tempo Perso brings relaxed Italian dining to this frequently busy part of town. Translating as ‘The Inn of Lost Time’, the mother and sons team behind this restaurant provide classic Mediterranean cooking in a setting that feels both traditional and modern. A starter to share – their board dell’osteria – comes with a vast array of Italian meats and cheeses plus a selection of bite-size versions of their starters – fantastic value at £14.50 for 2. Pizzas have a lovely thin base and the addition of garlic potatoes as a topping does not in the least feel stodgy. Pastas are mainly Italian classics, with sauces ranging from bolognese to mixed seafood, and most are available gluten-free. Plenty of meat and fish dishes are on offer, too, such as pan-seared sea bass in a saffron sauce and escalopes of veal. From their extensive and interesting list of Italian wines, most are available by the glass, and if you fancy an aperitif to kick off proceedings they’ve a fine selection of Italian-inspired cocktails. + Relaxed and welcoming surroundings - Large portion sizes

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NEW Paesano Pizza

With a central marble bar as its focal point, this busy, modern Italian in Glasgow’s Finnieston is a great little spot for cocktails and snacks, or something a bit more substantial. Having recently moved away from the ‘small plates’ approach to dining, the menu now takes a more traditional starter/main format. Sizzling chilli and garlic king prawns and carpaccio of beef with rocket and parmesan are two particular highlights from the starters. Invoking authentic Italian flavours, their osso bucco, a rich veal shin ragù, is oven-baked for no less than eight hours and served with a classic accompaniment of creamy risotto alla milanese. Zuppa di pesce is more of a stew than a soup with an unctuous tomato sauce. Desserts can be a bit heavy-duty with cheesecake, tiramisu and chocolate lasagne among the offerings, as well as pear cannelloni – sweet ricotta encased in crêpes, with a deeply flavoured pear and caramel sauce. The wine list suits most tastes and budgets, with all available by the glass, alongside a list of expertly blended classic cocktails and flavoured bellinis. + Stylish surroundings - Limited choice of beers

La Parmigiana

94 Miller Street, Merchant City (Map 7: A2, 2) 0141 258 5565, paesanopizza. co.uk | £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

447 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: F2, 66) 0141 334 0686, laparmigiana. co.uk | £17 (set lunch) / £32 (dinner)

With long rows of bustling tables leading the eye to a back wall given over to huge pizza ovens, there is a wonderful simplicity to Paesano Pizza. The menu, printed on a single sheet, lists eight

This long-established, time-honoured restaurant next to Kelvinbridge has been providing a sophisticated slant to Glasgow’s Italian dining scene for nearly 40 years. With classic, understated style,

North Star 108 Queen Margaret Drive, West End See Cafés

O Sole Mio

• Laboratorio Espresso Contemporary coffee bar, offering a good choice of espressos and guest ﬁlters. 142

34–36 Bath Street, City Centre (Map 6: E3, 46) 0141 331 1397, osolemioglasgow.com | £9.95 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

• Papercup Coffee Company Brilliant home-roasted coffee, plus a vibrant, veggie-friendly menu. 139

Slap bang in the city centre, O Sole Mio has the cosy, familiar feel of the neighbourhood restaurant and, though its location can mean it sees a lot of lunchtime and pre-theatre traffic, the quieter evenings lend an intimacy to The List Eating & Drinking Guide 159

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TABLE Talk

CLEMENTINE SANDISON ON TURNING SOIL INTO SOCIAL CHANGE I grew up in rural south Wales and learned how to grow vegetables, forage for wild berries and cook seasonal fare from my mother. I moved to Glasgow to study and loved the energy of the city, the abundance of parks, sandstone tenements and the vacant industrial spaces that nature had recolonised. Alongside an arts degree, I became involved in community gardening and ran my first cookery group at the Red Road Women’s Centre where women from different backgrounds came together to share their family recipes and stories. In this context, cooking a meal was a way to feel more connected to home and share your cultural identity with others, transforming a mundane domestic chore into a powerful act of expression. Growing, harvesting, cooking and eating together are vital social processes, just like art and culture. The word culture comes from the Latin verb colere which means to cultivate or till the soil, so in my mind there is a great deal of common ground between producing food and making art. In 2013, with a group of likeminded friends, we set up Open Jar Collective – an artist co-op that uses food as a lens through which to view the world. We’ve explored the stories of dairy farmers in Dumfries and Galloway and run a popup café to create dialogue about community ownership. Our latest project, Soil City, aims to reimagine the city as if soil matters and will involve undertaking field research to inspire conversations about our relationship with the land. ■ Clementine Sandison is one third of artist co-operative Open Jar Collective. The group promotes community engagement and uses food to bring people together. openjarcollective.co.uk

the interior is formal without being stiff, where old-fashioned white linen tablecloths add a sense of occasion to the many celebratory parties that dine here. Having recently taken over the reins from his father, chef-proprietor Matteo Giovanizzi maintains the same high standards of cuisine for which the restaurant is renowned. Handmade lobster ravioli is fresh and light, with deliciously savoury notes of basil coming through the creamy sauce. Mains tend to focus on prime cuts of meat or whole fillets of fish – guinea fowl with porcini mushrooms and grappa has wonderfully robust flavours without being heavy, while the addition of grapes to a red wine sauce adds a lively piquancy to roast Gressingham duck breast. For dessert, sambuca crème brûlée is mildly laced with flavours of liquorice and anise, giving a pleasantly delicate kick. With flawless service in an elegant and intimate setting, La Parmigiana provides a memorable Italian fine-dining experience. + Finely tuned cuisine - Could take more risks with the menu

Piccolo Mondo 344 Argyle Street, City Centre (Map 6: C5, 87) 0141 248 2481, piccolomondo. co.uk | Closed Sun | £14.50 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)

Traditional, even a little old-fashioned but all the better for it, this longstanding family-run restaurant perfectly inhabits its grand old building, complete inside with period features and elegant furnishings. Table bread accompanies the leather-bound menu, focaccia salt and crusty, drizzled with oil. If you can, book ahead and choose the celebration menu from a varied selection of set options: an aperitif – perhaps Kir Royal or prosecco, vodka and cranberry – three courses with a bottle of wine from a very impressive wine list, and an after-dinner liqueur with the coffee. Generosity with the drink isn’t a poor reflection on the food, however, which impresses throughout – starters such as potted prawns, served hot in a creamy tomato sauce or the stuffed mushrooms, huge and crispy, oozing mozzarella when cut into, are well balanced and delicious. Main courses are Tuscan traditionals, fettucine al ragù – rich, meaty pasta, the sauce shot through with spice from Italian sausage – or gigot of lamb, tender and juicy, served with crisp buttery vegetables and rosemary salt roast potatoes. Desserts are honest, indulgent and made in-house. + All-inclusive set menus a treat - Meaty menu limited choice for vegetarians

Ristorante Teatro 61 Elmbank Street, City Centre (Map 6: A2, 7) 0141 332 3565, teatrorestaurant. co.uk | £6.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Handy for the King’s Theatre, this cosy basement restaurant has a good range of set pre-theatre menus and lunchtime specials for the matinees. Settle into a cream leather booth and peruse a menu of pizza, pasta and a selection of fish and meat dishes, available with sides of garlic bread or chips. Starters include salsiccia which comes as a huge handshaped portion of homemade spicy sausage, and calamari, crisp light squid rings on a bed of rocket – crying out for a garlicky aioli. Tagliatelle Teatro is rich and creamy, ribbons of pasta with wild mushrooms shot through with earthy truffle oil, while spaghetti and meatballs are hugely satisfying, dense and meaty in a robust tomato ragù. To finish, there is a superior tiramisù of thick cream and soft biscuit, served with either a little Baileys or a small glass of fizz. Live music from classical and jazz guitarists at the

weekend can make the place seem lively, especially as the small size means that it doesn’t take many people to fill the place with a nice fug of noise and warmth. + Indulgent desserts with champagne cocktails - Starters can be a little basic

Smile Café Central

and delicious Sicilian stew of aubergines and tomatoes, with the sharp saltiness of capers and the occasional crunch of pine nuts. Rigatoni comes with huge chunks of meaty sausage in a robust tomato and pepper ragù, while pollo zucchini has chicken with a courgette sauce flavoured with green tea and a pleasantly unusual side of crunchy polenta fingers. Desserts are huge, sweet and, in the case of the icecream sundaes, extravagant to behold. + Quick and easy Italian food - Courgette a little overcooked

121 Douglas Street, City Centre See Cafés

La Vita

Smile Café 102 Queen Margaret Drive, West End See Cafés: Wee Places

Tarantino Ristorante 914–916 Sauchiehall Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 20) 0141 237 3902, tarantinoristorante.co.uk | £10.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Celebrating the gastronomic heritage of his home town of Nardo on the heel of Italy’s boot, Guglielmo Tarantino has managed to create a lovely balance between traditional and modern in his Finnieston restaurant, which opened in 2014. It’s evident both in terms of the classy, understated interior of the restaurant and the fresh, unfussy cuisine on offer. A starter of parmigiana in bianco – layers of aubergine and courgettes baked with bechamel sauce – arrives piping hot with deliciously crisp vegetables. Homemade ravioli are plump and pillowy and cooked perfectly al dente, with a warming tomato and chilli sauce adding a subtle kick to parcels of delicious wild boar ragù. Seafood features fairly heavily on the menu and dishes range from standard Italian to the more unusual such as sea bream topped with courgette flowers and crushed amaretti biscuits. Desserts are all freshly prepared in house, with passione di fragole – a sundae of strawberry sorbet, fresh strawberries and limoncello – making for a light and refreshing end to an enjoyable meal. + Quality, honest cooking - Not as busy as it deserves to be

Tony Macaroni • 4 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: B3, 20) 0141 334 5959, tonymacaroni.co.uk | £4.95 (one-course set lunch) / £16 (dinner) • 133 West George Street, City Centre (Map 6: E3, 65) 0141 221 4718, tonymacaroni.co.uk | £4.95 (one-course set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Tony Macaroni’s winning formula marries the convenience and reliability of a chain restaurant with authentic Italian waiter service you would expect from a traditional trattoria. With around a dozen venues across Scotland, the two Glasgow branches – city and West End – share the same truly comprehensive menu, taking in everything from arancini balls, veal escalopes, pan-fried sea bass and pizza bianco, to barbecue ribs and burger and chips. Alongside the à la carte, the presto menu, with dishes from £4.95, has to be one of the most economical in the city. Dishes are turned out swiftly, with starters including crostini Tony Macaroni – toasted bread topped with melted cheese, crumbled salsiccia and pickled peppers – while caponata is a rich

161 Queen Street, City Centre (Map 6: F4, 122) 0141 248 3533, lavitapizzeria.co.uk | £8.95 / £9.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Centrally located on the corner of George Square, right opposite Queen Street station, La Vita is an ideal spot for lunch in between shopping, or grabbing a quick dinner before catching a train. Spanning 3 floors, but with tables only round the outside of the upper walls, the mezzanine levels are great for watching the bustle below, and are cosy without being cramped. The vast menu offers a huge variety of standard Italian dishes, with pizza and pasta taking centre stage, alongside a variety of burgers, meat dishes and salads. From their ‘La Vita Specialities’ a starter of deep fried macaroni cheese balls coated in panko breadcrumbs is a serious guilty pleasure, while Burrata Caprese sees fresh cherry tomatoes and basil enveloped in a wonderfully gooey mozzarella and cream cheese. If you’ve room for dessert, ‘Leaning Tower of Pisa’ is a decadent mix of warm waffles with strawberries and vanilla ice cream smothered in a sweet, sticky caramel sauce, though a wide array of coffees, both alcoholic and non, are on offer too to round off your meal. + Quick and convenient - Can be quite loud

La Vita Spuntini 199–201 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: C2, 30) 0141 339 4222, lavitapizzeria.co.uk | £6.99 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Focusing on Italian ‘spuntini’, which roughly translates as ‘snacks’, this West End branch of Glasgow’s La Vita group is great for diners who have a hard time making up their minds. With a huge menu of small plates, customers could easily be bamboozled by the inordinate amount of choice, although since sharing is encouraged it’s possible to sample a wide variety. Italian Scotch egg has a lovely runny yolk, although the Italian sausage meat doesn’t taste too different from regular Scottish. Grilled asparagus comes with a sticky balsamic glaze, and coniglio cacciatora, a traditional Italian hunters’ stew has tender pieces of rabbit in a sweet tomato sauce. A wide selection of pizzete, 5-inch Neapolitan-style pizzas, is on offer, billed as being cooked ‘bucca de leone’ (from the lion’s mouth). And indeed they are – a quick glance over to the bar will reveal a huge pizza oven shaped like a lion’s head. With friendly waiting staff and traditional Italian surroundings, La Vita Spuntini is an ideal venue for a meal shared with family or friends. + Sampling a wide variety of dishes - Choice can be overwhelming

ONLINE LISTINGS For full opening hours, further details on facilities, individual location maps plus web and social media links, go to

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MEXICAN Mexican food dropped onto the plates of grateful Glaswegians two decades ago with joyful piles of nachos and fajitas, served with ranch-style beans, cheese, jalapeños and sour cream. It is a natural fit for Glasgow, plenty of carbs and a macho zing of chilli, all washed down with margaritas. But in recent years, a little more care has introduced the city to regional and Caribbean variations, a more varied approach to the cuisine and subtle new flavours. But some good places have come and gone already. Hopefully, the city can continue to support the remaining stalwarts and encourage them on to even greater things. Reviewer: Andrea Pearson

NEW Barburrito • 138 Queen Street, City Centre (Map 6: F4, 124) 0141 221 9330, barburrito.co.uk | £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner) • 5 Gordon Street, City Centre (Map 6: E5, 99) 0141 248 3364 | £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner) • 115 Hope Street, City Centre (Map 6: D4, 85) 0141 243 2321 | £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

Formerly Pinto Mexican Kitchen, the three Glasgow city centre branches of this local chain were taken over by Barburrito in late 2015. The Manchester-based group, who opened their first burrito bar in 2005 and now have over a dozen Mexican eateries across the UK, plans to rebrand the Scottish Pintos (including Edinburgh) in April–May 2016. Expect much the same style of casual Tex-Mex offerings, delivering fast and fresh food in an ‘uno, dos, tres’ ordering process – choose burrito (including classic, loaded and a ‘superfood’ version giving you four of your five-a-day veggies), tacos or nachos; pick a filling such as pulled pork, shredded beef or veggie; and add salsa

on an incremental heat scale. Additional Barburrito touches planned include more rice options and featured ‘limited edition’ fillings to pack into those handy holdalls of Tex-Mex goodness. [Not open for a full review at time of going to press – check list.co.uk/food for updates.]

Bibi’s Cantina 599 Dumbarton Road, West End (Map 9A: A3, off) 0141 579 0179, bibiscantina. com | £6.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Bibi’s is a cosy, neighbourhood restaurant that has been trumpeting the Mexican cause longer than most. Now, thankfully, the little cantina with the big heart – friendly staff table complimentary mini margaritas and tortillas on arrival – is thriving. The menu varies a little with the season but some popular starters are guaranteed to make an appearance – among them are the rich and spicy Mexican meatball soup and the chilli rellenos, delightful deep-fried jalapeño peppers stuffed with a soft white cheese. Some of the main tortilla and burrito fillings incorporate traditional ingredients and techniques; these include a classic chicken mole made with chocolate, and shredded pork, baked slowly in banana leaves. Fish and seafood is fresh and confidently cooked and despite the inevitable battering and frying, the accompanying salsa, pickled veg and chopped chillies help to assuage the cholesterol guilt. Every course does seem to feature tortilla chips – even dessert where they appear with cinnamon, honey and ice-cream – but they are good, and with a range of choice high-end tequilas to accompany, who’s counting? + Chilli rellenos - Tortillas with everything

Pancho Villa’s 26 Bell Street, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 28) 0141 552 7737, panchovillas.co.uk | £8.50 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Pancho Villa’s deserves recognition as a member of the early wave of Merchant City food and drink establishments having arrived nearly two decades ago. It is still going strong despite the fact that its generous two-storey premises would no doubt appeal to chains or breweries eyeing up the hospitality-focused destination. That said, the once cheerful-

looking interior with its bright murals (including a large homage to Frida Kahlo) and wooden cantina-style tables and chairs, is starting to show it’s age a bit. The no-fuss cantina feel permeates other aspects too – food arrives swiftly, portions are large, and there is a slight lack of subtlety in some of the dishes – the house special chipotle chicken is big on creamy, garlicky sauce but rather too light on the delicate chipotle flavour. However, there are some good flourishes to be found – the tender lamb barbacoa tacos, for instance, just melt in the mouth. An ideal spot for large groups and celebrations with tapas deals, student discounts and party extras. + Swift service and big portions - Seems hurried

Taco Mazama • Central Station, City Centre (Map 6: D5, 91) 0141 230 8127 6 Renfield Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 91) 0141 248 8940, tacomazama. co.uk | £7.99 (set lunch) / £12 (dinner) • 263 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: C1, 44) 0141 337 3399, tacomazama. co.uk | £7.99 (set lunch) / £12 (dinner)

When Taco Mazama opened its first branch on Renfield Street back in 2010 it wasn’t just a breath of fresh air, it was a large, zesty lungful of Tex-Mex deliciousness. It brought us bulging burritos and crispy tacos rammed with slow-cooked beef and silky, spicy fresh veg and all served in a funky, friendly atmosphere. Taco still does all that, in three easy ordering steps – tortilla or bowl, filling, salsas and sauces – while also catering really well for both spicelovers and the more palate-cautious with add-on sauces providing a choice of heat intensities so they can be applied or avoided as desired. The expanding family of branches – the original was joined by a Byres Road venue, then a branch in Central Station and now they’re in Edinburgh as well – makes one feel that the original vision is perhaps in danger of being diluted. That said, the fresh flavours conjured up make it still one of the best dinner-insilver-foil options in town. + Freshly made and extra heat if desired - US mall-style production line

✱ HITLIST

MEXICAN ✱ Topolabamba Lively Tex-Mex bar and diner that serves Mexican classics and offers great £1 and tasting deals. ✱

Topolabamba

89 St Vincent Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 72) 0141 248 9359, topolabamba.com | £9.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Topolabamba is that all too rare find – a lively city centre bar/diner that serves fresh food at great prices. The menu mixes tapas dishes (around a fiver each) such as tacos and quesadillas with blokey Tex-Mex ‘Big Boys’ of ribs, burgers and burritos while intolerances and chilli strengths are clearly indicated. Wings, ribs and fish tacos are go-to dishes and the latter do not disappoint. Crispy hunks of the day’s catch, wrapped in soft tacos with a drizzle of Mexican crema are dreamy for anyone with fondness for these posh fish finger sandwiches. Intriguing combos such as the guacamole and black bean tostadas or the quesadillas with cactus and smoked chilli also feature. Among the ‘Classics’ is a cheese fundido, or fondue, served with tortilla chips – they are very salty, so do have a Caipirinha cocktail or a chilled Dos Equis beer to hand, or follow swiftly with a horchata ice-cream. There is certainly an attempt to bring a taste of real Mexico to Glasgow and the jovial staff make you feel as if you have been specially invited along for that purpose. + Great value and helpful, jolly staff - Very salty tortillas

Bibi’s Cantina: a lively neighbourhood cantina with the big heart, confident traditional cooking and a range of tequilas The List Eating & Drinking Guide 161

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ROUND the WORLD If you’re looking to introduce your tastebuds to new flavours and dishes from every corner of the planet, Glasgow offers an ever-expanding and innovative selection of eateries, some new, some long-established. Broaden your culinary horizons with the laid-back cuisine of the Caribbean, the non-stop party of Brazil, a Mongolian feast inspired by 13th-century warriors, Argentinian steaks, authentic Greek food, and even a little bit of Cuba. Reviewers: Emily Henderson, Bronwen Livingstone, Lewis Renton

and ‘classic’ mezes to begin your meal, ranging from Shetland scallops with mini kofte and lemon butter to grilled spicy beef sausages called ‘sucuk’. A main course of king prawns with artichoke dolma, mozzarella and truffle mash is beautifully presented and a lovely combination of flavours – it’s only fault being too generously portioned. Familiar chicken and lamb shish are also available, plus the ‘signature grill’ which includes steak, beef and duck, ranging in price from £14.95 to £25.95. Vegetarians have a couple of interesting options, such as roast chestnut and mushroom casserole with rice and salad. Round-off your meal with baklava and ice-cream and a shot of strong Turkish coffee, served in an ornate silver cup. + Complementary mini Baileys or champagne cocktail with dessert - Tables rather packed together

Athena Greek Taverna GREEK

Ad Lib NORTH AMERICAN • 33 Ingram Street, Merchant City • 111 Hope Street, City Centre See Steakhouses & Burgers

Alla Turca TURKISH 192 Pitt Street, City Centre (Map 6: C2, 14) 0141 332 5300, allaturca.co.uk | £6.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Tucked off Sauchiehall Street and popular with the hungry pre-theatre crowd but equally good for a more laidback meal, Alla Turca serves up freshly prepared Turkish fare in a warm and welcoming setting. Take a pew in one of the leather booths lit tastefully with mosaic lamps, and choose between ‘wild’

141 Elderslie Street, City Centre (Map 9B: F2, 46) 0141 339 3895, athenataverna. co.uk | £8.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Decorated in warm colours and lit by sparkly fairy lights, this Greek restaurant was originally founded in 1973 on the city’s Southside, moving locations a few times till settled recently down the road from the Mitchell Library. Boasts on its website speak of ‘hearty portions’ – and this is no exaggeration. The sharing starter of Cyprus hors d’oeuvres for £11.95 is a great mix of flavours and textures including dolmades, hummus, tzatziki and extremely salty pickled peppers. The beef stifado stew, cooked in red wine with shallots and cinnamon sticks, is a warming rustic number, while the lamb meatballs with garlic, mint and oregano are rich and filling – and

come with the carbohydrate challenge of both rice and roast potatoes. There is a good selection of dishes for vegetarians including halloumi salad and moussaka. Finish off with some natural yoghurt topped with honey and nuts or traditional rice pudding. If you fancy a side of plate smashing and dancing with your dinner, head to the restaurant’s monthly Greek night. + Generous portions at reasonable prices - Slightly odd soundtrack mixing traditional Greek and pop music

✱ HITLIST

Bar Gumbo NORTH AMERICAN 71–77 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: B3, 24) 0141 334 7132 | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Specialising in Southern and Creole dishes, Bar Gumbo is a cosy and welcoming spot to while away an evening with hearty US food and live music. Its wood-panelled walls and curious tree-like pillars give the dining room a rustic feel, and it’s as much bar as it is restaurant, serving a number of American beers, inventive cocktails and a moderately lethal shot-beer combination known as a boilermaker. The menu veers away from the standard North American fare, and heads south for its inspiration. Dixie battered catfish bites are a satisfying cross between haddock and monkfish, opalescent and tender in their crisp coating. Jambalaya keeps the chilli heat in check and lets the spices and flavours of this Creole version of paella shine through. The eponymous gumbo is a deep, dark, soupy stew with rice and bell peppers and a choice of chicken, vegetable or prawn and okra. Many dishes are served in unusual receptacles – towering burgers sit in shallow wooden boxes, po’boy sandwiches perch on heavy boards and the gumbo arrives in its own dinky pot-bellied tureen. + Delicious Dixie catfish - Damp pecan pie

ROUND THE WORLD ✱ Frosoulla’s Greek food with an impeccable pedigree – all the classics cooked to family recipes in a smart, modern restaurant, with excellent service. ✱ Nur Aromatic and homemade Egyptian cuisine, complete with belly-dancing and shisha pipes located just over the Clyde from the city centre. ✱ Restauracja U Jarka Terrific Polish cuisine, guided by the seasons, prepared with love and served with warmth and good humour. ✱ Yiamas Greek Taverna Authentic Greek food at great value, perfectly situated for hungry shoppers off Buchanan Street with take-away also available.

BRGR NORTH AMERICAN 526 Great Western Road, West End See Steakhouses & Burgers

Bavarian Brauhaus GERMAN

Buddy’s Bar Diner Grill

30 Bothwell Street, City Centre See Bars & Pubs

NORTH AMERICAN 677–681 Pollokshaws Road, Southside See Steakhouses & Burgers

Boteco do Brasil SOUTH AMERICAN

NEW CAU Glasgow

62 Trongate, Merchant City (Map 7: C3, 35) 07772 847311, botecodobrasil.com | £5.95 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

ARGENTINIAN

The spirit of Brazil is alive and kicking at Boteco, which has a packed calendar of music, open mic and salsa nights as well as a diverse menu to enjoy. The eating area is separated from the busy bar – dominated by large televisions – by some flimsy draped material, so don’t expect the most laid-back of meals here. The staff are chatty and helpful, and starters are brought to the table with efficient speed, notable dishes being chouriço sausages served with cassava (Brazilian potatoes) and coxinha de frango – soft potato dough filled with chicken. There are lots of interesting mains including burgers, traditional stew made with black beans, pork ribs, smoked bacon, salt beef and smoked sausage, corn-fed chicken, linguine with prawns and cherry tomatoes, and seasoned strips of rump steak, pan-fried and served on a sizzle platter, with a side of cassava. Finish off with one of the sugary desserts such as the brigadeiro – truffles made with condensed milk and chocolate, served with whipped cream. + A lively night guaranteed - Not the most relaxing place for a meal

Bread Meats Bread NORTH AMERICAN Yiamas Greek Taverna (page 166): enticing Greek food in the city centre

102–104 St Vincent Street, City Centre See Steakhouses & Burgers

222–224 Ingram Street, Merchant City (Map 7: A1, 1) 0141 221 6272, caurestaurants.com | £11.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Inspired by the ‘passion and vitality’ of Buenos Aires, CAU is part of a chain with branches in London and Amsterdam, decorated in a sleek and modern style with large windows looking out on to the twinkling lights of Royal Exchange Square and Ingram Street. Try the hummus, served with crispbreads and deliciously rich aubergine caviar, chilli and roasted nuts. The salt and pepper squid and chipotle mayonnaise is a less impressive starter, a tad unctuous. But the steaks are where this place really excels – and what you should be coming for. There’s AberdeenAngus rump, ribeye, medallions and sirloin – or splash out on the feasting plate of speciality cuts for £84.95. It’s not really aimed at vegetarians but beetroot ravioli with goat’s cheese is a rich option – and pescatarians can go for the enjoyable Catalan fish stew. The drinks menu ranges from milkshakes and smoothies to cocktails and wine, divided into ‘nice’ and ‘very nice’, with some made especially for CAU – and it can’t be every dessert menu that has a cornflake ice-cream sundae on it, a must try. + Top-notch steak - Can feel a bit corporate

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The Calabash Restaurant AFRICAN 57 Union Street, City Centre (Map 6: E5, 100) 0141 221 2711, african-restaurant. com | £9.99 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Zebra and leopard prints abound and African textiles and artefacts dot the sparse dining room – but the décor in this basement venue isn’t the draw. This family-run restaurant is dedicated to serving up a taste of home to the entire African community of west Scotland, and so the menu reads like a whistlestop tour of the continent (and beyond) with Kenyan grilled meat, cassava, plantain, coconut milk, yam and peanuts showing up in various guises. Those in search of the ultra-authentic may enjoy spicy Nigerian pepper soup and goat’s head stew. Chikina awaze tibis, from the Ethiopian section, is served on a stainless-steel tray covered with a woven lid, with spongy, sour injera flatbread laden with sautéed meat, fragrant with spices and best eaten with fingers. While meat is the main focus, there are a few vegetarian dishes such as spinach and plantain with peanut sauce, Jamaican rice and peas or kidney bean stew. The drinks menu includes beers from Namibia and Nigeria, African Fanta orange and a nonalcoholic malt Guinness. Weekends can get especially busy with DJs pulling in a lively crowd. + Authentic African cuisine - Blaring stereo

Elià GREEK 24 George Square, City Centre (Map 6: F4, 123) 0141 221 9988, eliagreekrestaurant.com | £6.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Situated in a listed building looking out over George Square, Elià aims to bring a taste of Greece to Glasgow’s city centre. The airy dining room can accommodate large groups, while booths allow for more intimate dining. Either way, you’ll be transported by the food. Owner George Ieronymidis’s Cretan heritage shines through, whether it’s the regional dishes on the menu such as pork chop with Cretan cheese or the excellent olive oil imported from George’s own family’s farm. The restaurant’s popularity with the city’s Greek community is testament to Elià’s authenticity and cooking. Dishes vary according to what’s in season. Marinated lamb chops are wellflavoured and served with addictive oven potatoes, slow-cooked beef burgers are bathed in a rich tomato and cuminscented sauce, and moussaka gets a vegetarian make-over. Desserts mostly comprise traditional Greek pastries, doused in syrup and tooth-achingly sweet. It’s well worth taking a look at

the excellent wine list as many bottles are imported from small-scale Greek producers and are unique in the city. + Terrific and unusual Greek-centric wine list - Glasgow weather no substitute for Greek sunshine

✱

Frosoulla’s

GREEK 39 Sinclair Drive, Southside (Map 8: D6, 26) 0141 649 7588, frosoullas.co.uk | Closed Mon/Tue | £9.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

It’s all about family at Frosoulla’s. From the waitress who greets you like a long-lost relative to the Mediterranean indulgence towards children, Frosoulla’s feels like the Greek family you never had. Add to that the traditional handme-down recipes that imbue the cuisine with an earthy authenticity. Saganaki is a harmonious marriage of seafood and feta in a light tomato and ouzo bisque. Kleftiko, fall-apart slow-roast lamb on the bone, has been prepared to the same family recipe for almost half a century and is the house speciality. The best-value option is the four-course mezedes menu which reads like a roll-call of Greek classics including keftedes, dolmades, kofte, moussaka and a wonderful homemade taramasalata. Portions are generous so, despite the good-quality cooking, many diners end up taking boxes of left-overs home. But it’s not all old-school. Keen to meet modern diners’ needs, Frosoulla has introduced a comprehensive vegan and vegetarian section, with animal-free versions of classic dishes, such as layered aubergine and potatoes in a silky red wine and tomato sauce, and a cassoulet of chickpeas and cannellini beans. + Running out of table for all the mezedes dishes - Getting too full to eat all the mezedes dishes

Ketchup NORTH AMERICAN 44 Ashton Lane, West End See Steakhouses & Burgers

Khublai Khan Mongolian Barbecue Restaurant

diners select their own rice, noodles and vegetables before topping it all off with fish or meat, including chicken and, more exotically, kangaroo. Hand the bowl to the chef to cook the stir-fry on a huge hotplate, then repeat until full. A chart on the wall helpfully offers suggestions of combinations of sauce and spices, from spicy to mild. Starters are equally quirky, including wild boar dumplings served with sweet and sour sauce, and kangaroo haggis. The desserts seem a bit pedestrian by comparison – pretty sure the Mongolians didn’t have Mars Bar cheesecake or chocolate and hazelnut torte. If you are feeling brave, wash it all down with a cup of traditional green tea. + As much Mongolian cuisine as you can eat - Meat at the food prep area can look a bit tired

Las Iguanas SOUTH AMERICAN 16–20 West Nile Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 96) 0141 248 5705, iguanas.co.uk | £9 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Las Iguanas is a vibrant slice of Latin America in central Glasgow. The large, bright dining room evokes the louche lifestyle of 1950s’ Miami, with its teak, tan and copper colour scheme punctuated with pops of neon, and the lively Latin soundtrack, with jugs of punch from the extensive cocktail menu adding to the party feel. The menu’s based on familiar mainstays such as burritos, burgers and steaks but also strays off the beaten track with inventive salads, mix-your-own guacamole, Bahian coconut chicken, and xinxim – chicken and crayfish simmered in a luscious peanut and lime sauce and served with a crunchy coconut sprinkle. Vegetarians and vegans have a separate menu with palm hearts, avocado, butternut squash and pulses replacing the meat and a good number of glutenfree options are also available. Desserts include a light macadamia and dulce con leche cheesecake and refreshing mango sorbet although the party crowd may prefer a cortada coffee – espresso cut with condensed milk and a shot or two of liqueur – to finish the night in style. + Inventive cocktails - Disappointing burrito

MONGOLIAN 26 Candleriggs, Merchant City, Merchant City (Map 7: C3, 30) 0141 552 5646, khublaikhan.co.uk | £5.95 (set lunch) / £22.95 (set dinner)

You wouldn’t think that paying to essentially make your own meal would be a particularly enticing night out, but eating at Khublai Khan’s is an undeniably fun and interactive experience. Inspired by the rulers of Mongolia who cooked meat, vegetables, oils and spices over a fire on their shields,

ana Poco HaCvantina! Bar &

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pocohavana.com

NEW Mango AMERICAS 373 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre (Map 6: B2, 9) 07908 251200, mangolatino.uk | £5.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Mango is a lively little joint. Its colourful interior is strung with fairy lights and flags of the Americas, and a graphic multi-coloured poster design covers the walls. The menu is a mix of tapas dishes and mains drawn from the cuisines of a variety of South American countries. Buñuelo de Yuca are fried cassava and cheese bites popular in Honduras and Venezuela, battered prawns come with a light avocado cream, and Columbian empanada pastries can be filled with shredded chicken, vegetables or prawns. Mains include fajitas, Brazilian steak and a deeply savoury stew of beef strips with pinto beans accompanied by avocado and cassava. It helps if you’re keen on mango as the ubiquitous fruit turns up in cocktails, cheesecake, salad, with grilled chicken and, somewhat surprisingly, in a sauce for salmon. Set lunch options are somewhat pedestrian, however, and lack the Latin flair of the evening menu. There’s a good range of evening entertainment, from live music and DJ sets to popular salsa and bachata dance classes and, as the bar is open til 3am, no-one’s in a hurry to leave. + Refreshing mango and avocado salad - Mango with salmon?

NY American Grill NORTH AMERICAN Princes Square, 48 Buchanan Street, City Centre (Map 6: F5, 105) 0141 221 7667, nyamericangrill.co.uk | £11.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

The name really says it all, this member of the upmarket food court is the place for all-American burgers, hot dogs and tacos along with steaks, chicken and ribs – and it’s the coal-fired grill that elevates the relatively straightforward offerings. The Josper grill – essentially an indoor barbecue – renders chicken skin wonderfully crispy and the flesh meltingly tender, while burgers have a chargrilled intensity. Away from the grill, tacos are packed with tempura fish, topped with guacamole and served with sour cream and a mild salsa. A smoky hot dog may be smothered with Carolina pulled pork, caramelised onions, American cheese – or all three. Desserts, too, stay firmly in the American canon, with key lime pie, apple pie and New York Cheesecake among the choices. In keeping with the Stateside ethos, portion sizes are generous and service is friendly and efficient. There’s also an excellent drinks selection, with more than 30 varieties of bourbon, a vast range of American-inspired cocktails and guest craft beers from US breweries. + Amazing grilled chicken wings - Salsa lacks a chilli kick

✱

Nur

MIDDLE EAST 22 Bridge Street, City Centre (Map 6 : D7, off) 0141 258 2326, nur-restaurant.co.uk | Closed Mon | £20 (dinner)

Located ten minutes away from Central Station, just over the Clyde on Bridge Street, what Nur lacks in glamorous location it makes up for in high-quality, homemade Egyptian cuisine. Each dish is freshly prepared and beautifully presented – the rice, for example, cooked with orzo comes in the shape of a pyramid, a stylish touch. Basterma and egg, an unusual dish of smoked beef, egg, butter and spices makes for a memorable starter, as do the fava beans with spicy sausage. Smother the flatbread with baba ganoush and hummus, before moving on to the mains. The chicken and spinach tagine is slow-cooked to perfection while the chicken kebab is marinated in a rich blend of herbs, spices and lemon. Finish off with a rich Egyptian coffee and a slice or two of baklava – delicate layers of filo pastry with chopped nuts, orange blossom syrup and ice-cream. Nur has a cosy mezzanine level, perfect for private functions, decorated in dark and warming colours, with belly dancing and cooking classes also available. + Homemade tahini and baba ganoush dips - No alcohol licence – so BYOB

NEW Poco Havana Bar and Cantina CARIBBEAN 48A West Regent Street, City Centre (Map 6: E3, 52) 0141 353 6098, pocohavana.com | £7.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

A shabby-chic basement bar and cantina, newcomer Poco Havana rocks the retro rum-shack look and garish colours that wouldn’t look amiss on a Caribbean beach. The menu, split into sections, covers far greater ground than Cuba alone, with nods to the cuisines of Spain, Jamaica and Mexico. Tacos, burritos and fajitas come with a choice of tequila lime steak, chipotle chicken, Bay of Pigs pulled pork or battered fish. Elsewhere ‘pollo’ dishes include a glazed quarter chicken, Jamaican Me Crazy jerk drumsticks and a chicken and chorizo stew. Salads and burgers are served with a Caribbean spin, and

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ROUND THE WORLD

In association with

GLASGOW

atmosphere-less Princes Square shopping centre does it no favours, but reggae music and vibrant décor help liven things up. Start your meal with ‘cutters’, which can be eaten as sides or starters, including sticky barbecue pork ribs, and delicious corn and plantain fritters with pickled cucumber and watermelon, served with dips ranging in levels of spiciness with memorable names such as ‘Lawd a massi’ (Lord have mercy – ie very hot, for those who don’t speak Caribbean). For the main course, opt for the curried goat shoulder curry with Scotch bonnets, ginger and tomatoes, before cooling off with one of the many cocktails on offer, which unsurprisingly feature a lot of rum. Even the triplelayered chocolate sponge cake is soaked in Sailor Jerry rum, making it doubly decadent. + Fried plantain chips - Long wait between main course and dessert

NEW Tasty GLOBAL Alea Glasgow, Springfield Quay, Paisley Road, Southside (Map 8: D1, off) 0141 555 6144, tasty-at-alea.com| No Kids | £21 (dinner)

CAU Glasgow (page 162): a newcomer specialising in steaks and burgers

salsas, chipotle mayo and guacamole all feature heavily. Ever-ubiquitous tapas plates are also an option for those who like to share, such as bistec con chimichurri – Galician Padrón peppers and baked haddock with pineapple and mint salsa. A well-selected beer list spans Scotland, Spain and the Americas from north to south. Gracing the cocktail list are a half-dozen mojitos, a handful of tequila-based shakes, and numerous rum numbers, allowing you to quench even the most tropical of thirsts. + Ample choice in the drinks department - Menu could benefit from some refinement

✱

Restauracja U Jarka

POLISH Sikorski Polish Club, 5 Parkgrove Terrace, West End (Map 9B: D1, 18) 07756 970306 | Closed Tue | £13 (dinner)

This small, friendly, family restaurant situated in the basement of the Sikorski Polish Club is a true West End delight. Its informal, quaint dining room is the place where Polish ex-pats and hungry locals gather for honest, authentic Central European cooking. The big hitters of Polish cuisine are all present and correct – borscht, pierogi dumplings and goulash are carefully prepared and carry big flavours with a lightness of touch, while potato pancakes with sour cream and dill are light and crisp. Occasional specials reflect seasonal treats such as venison, rabbit or hake with wild mushrooms. The folks here are passionate about food – a simple query about mushrooms in the bigos (sauerkraut stew) can easily turn into a four-way conversation as diners at neighbouring tables weigh in on the debate. Generous portions are the norm, but it’s worth saving space for one of the house desserts, such as sky-high gateaux, apple pie and traditional baked cheesecake. Homemade cordial is a refreshing fruity alternative to the superb range of specialist vodkas, beers and liqueurs. + Who knew cabbage could taste so good? - Limited opening hours

Smoak NORTH AMERICAN 6 Royal Exchange Square, Merchant City, City Centre See Steakhouses & Burgers

St Louis Café Bar NORTH AMERICAN 734 Dumbarton Road, West End (Map 9A: A3, off) 0141 339 1742, stlouiscafebar.co.uk | £5.95 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Small and cosy, the St Louis Café Bar is a welcome stop at any time on the fairly drab-looking Broomhill end of Dumbarton Road, proving a great place for a relaxing pint of craft beer, tea and cake or a substantial meal. A popular evening venue, which boasts live music at weekends and a quiz on Tuesdays, it’s also ideal for lazy Sunday mornings reading the newspapers and an all-day breakfast available from 9am to 5pm. On offer is fruit and nut granola with yoghurt and compote, belly-busting fry-ups and veggie haggis, poached eggs and spinach on an English muffin. The smokin’ burger is a highlight of the evening menu, loaded with smoked cheddar, jalapeños, pickled gherkins and salad. Other diner-style options available include nachos and St Louis gumbo made with vegetables or chicken and chorizo. Those craving a snack can nibble on falafels with tzatziki and pitta or bruschetta with goat’s cheese and red onion chutney. Decent prices plus friendly and helpful staff make this a lovely place to waste a few hours, and dogs are also welcome. + Breakfast available all day - Very busy on music nights

NEW Sugar Dumplin CARIBBEAN Princes Square, 48 Buchanan Street, City Centre (Map 6: F5, 105) 0141 248 2255, sugardumplin.co.uk | £13 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Bringing a taste of the sunny Caribbean to not-so-sunny Glasgow, Sugar Dumplin describes itself as ‘jerk, rum and jammin’. The location of the restaurant (which opened last year and is looking to expand around the UK) in the rather

The big personality of Scottish celebrity chef Tony Singh is stamped all over Tasty, from the photos of Tony mugging with various ingredients to the couthy wording of the menu. The idea is simple: marry the best of Scotland’s produce with comfort food from around the globe to create the ultimate feel-good dinner. ‘Bits Tae Share’ can be starters or combined tapas-style and include steamed buns with pickles, haggis pakora, neeps and tatties, quesadilla and poutine. Individual dishes are good, although it’s hard to find a combination that sits well together and, Asian salad notwithstanding, harder yet to find one that features vegetables. Mains are less adventurous, with steak options and several fish dishes. Desserts take a nostalgic trip to the tuck shop, and include Tony’s version of a chocolate teacake and an over-the-top trifle of whipped fudge, marmalade custard and bubblegum marshmallow, all accompanied by little dishes of sweeties. The wonderful view over the Clyde and quirky styling of the restaurant makes the dining room an appealing space but the wider casino ambience is an acquired taste. + Stunning view across the river - Light on fruit and veg

TriBeCa NORTH AMERICAN 102 Dumbarton Road, West End (Map 9A: B3, 17) 0844 357 7777, tribecagroup. co.uk | £11 (lunch) / £13.50 (dinner)

When it comes to sourcing the best value-for-money breakfast in town, it is hard to look past the three Tribeca outlets dotted across the city. The original restaurant at Partick is the best known of the three for providing ample, American-style breakfast portions to the hordes of customers who often have to wait to be seated. Portions are large, as expected, yet this does not distract from the quality. The signature stack of buttermilk pancakes is thick, fluffy and doused in maple syrup. For those who prefer to start their day without a sugar overload, a variety of five-egg omelettes ensure that making a lunch reservation later in the day won’t be necessary. Pick of the other menu options is possibly The Williamsburg – thin slices of smoked salmon partnered with scrambled eggs and a scattering of leaves. While there is little subtlety in most of their dishes, Tribeca very successfully fulfils the role of the American diner, much to the

delight of those who like to kick start their morning with all things US of A. + Hungry patrons won’t leave disappointed - Less can sometimes be more

TriBeCa NORTH AMERICAN 1 Fenwick Road, Southside (Map 8: A5, off) 0844 357 7777, tribecacafe.com | £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Although the menu remains largely the same as its older West End sister restaurants, TriBeCa’s Southside customer-base reflects its suburban location, with families, older couples and lunching ladies occupying the majority of tables. Its weekend brunch sees queues forming out the door for their famed fluffy buttermilk pancakes with maple syrup, and on sunny days the handful of pavement tables are in high demand. The BYO (build your own) burger is a good choice – diners can assemble their burger from the bun up, adding toppings and sauces as they choose. It arrives on a wooden board and is accompanied by a steel container of crisp fat chips. A main of Southern-fried chicken with waffle, maple syrup and gravy is a less successful combination, with sweet and savoury flavours competing for prominence. Kids are well catered for with a selection of scaled-down versions of main menu dishes. Snow blizzards are thick, creamy shakes flavoured with the likes of oreo cookies, peanut butter candy or white chocolate and Nutella and are substantial enough to stand in for dessert. + Designing your own burger - Fried chicken with syrup

TriBeCa NORTH AMERICAN 144 Park Road, West End (Map 9A: F3, 77) 0844 357 7777, tribecacafe.com | £11 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

The Park Road branch of the Americanthemed Tribeca group is arguably the slickest, it’s warm interior a welcoming beacon to those who emerge from Kelvingrove Park at the foot of Gibson Street. Like all of the units in the group, brunch is served until 5pm, but this particular restaurant’s true strength lies in the quality of its evening meals.

TIPLIST FOR BEER • Bier Halle Underground beer hall serving up two-for-one pizzas, hundreds of global beers and DJ sets on weekends. 118 • DogHouse Merchant City From the BrewDog team, craft beer and meats of many ﬂavours in a canteen-style set up. 120 • Inn Deep Riverside bar owned by Williams Bros, with over 70 bottled beers, a menu of BBQ food and pub classics. 122 • six°north Scottish brewers bringing a unique blend of Belgian beers and Flemish food to a Partick bier halle. 126 • The Vintage at Drygate Craft brewing meets innovative cooking in this East End beer wonderland. 128 • WEST Brewery German-style beer hall and brewery serving home-brewed beers in a striking Glasgow Green building. 129

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GLASGOW

A small selection of starters includes nachos (served with chicken or beef), a delicate goat’s cheese salad or a ‘mini Reuben’ – the chef’s take on the classic NYC pastrami and pickle sandwich. To follow, the emphasis of the menu lies squarely on meaty treats. Burgers make up the bulk of the offering, customers can choose from a selection of speciality buns or build their own from various components and toppings. The Harlem is a particular hit, a succulent combination of steak patty, chorizo, manchego cheese and a drizzle of chimichurri sauce. With an impressive American beer selection to accompany your meal, the team at Tribeca have most certainly succeeded in bringing a slice of the Big Apple to the West End. + Endless burger options - Veggie options exist, but this is meatsville

SCOTTISH With no established template to work with, the Scottish restaurant can be anything it wants to be and this section has everything from uber-cool contemporary to tweed-andtartan cliché. There’s a wide discrepancy in what constitutes a ‘Scottish’ menu, too, but the best of these venues are characterised by a focus on fine local and seasonal produce and, more importantly, the skills and imagination to make the most of it. Reviewers: Martin Cross, Carolyn McTaggart

Tropeiro SOUTH AMERICAN

Arisaig

363 Argyle Street, City Centre (Map 6: C5, 86) 0141 222 2102, tropeiro.co.uk | £10.95 (set lunch) / £23.95 (set dinner)

1 Merchant Square, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 21) 0141 553 1010, arisaigrestaurant.co.uk | £15 (lunch) / £24 (dinner)

The Glasgow branch of this Brazilian steakhouse chain (with three other branches in central and northern England) offers diners an endless feast of meat and salads – and there is a lot to sample. Once you have loaded up your plate with accompaniments such as red cabbage and beetroot salad, pickles and broccoli with red chilli, turn over the coaster provided to green for ‘hungry’ and let the meat feast commence – it won’t stop until you turn over to red for ‘full-up’. Up to 12 cuts of meat, cooked on an open fire and served at your table, are available in the ‘full rodizio’ so try everything – the picanha, beef rump seasoned with sea salt, garlic and olive oil, is particularly good. Other Brazilian hot dishes are also on offer including spicy pork casserole and traditional fish stew. The ‘rodizio completo’, costing £32.50 per person includes a welcome cocktail, meat and sides plus a dessert – so to get the best value out of Tropeiro it’s best visited when real justice can be done to the embarrassment of barbecue riches. + As much barbecue as you can handle - Not ideal for vegetarians

✱

Yiamas Greek Taverna

GREEK 16–20 Bath Street, City Centre (Map 6: F3, 49) 0141 353 1386, yiamastaverna. com | Closed Mon | £7.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

This unassuming restaurant may be plainly decorated (bar the lively mural on one wall depicting a Greek street scene), but what it lacks in interior styling it more than makes up for with fantastic food. A starter of feta wrapped in filo pastry with sesame seeds and honey combines an unusual variety of tastes and textures with delicious results, while the generous portion of pitta and hummus is about as freshly made as you could ever want. The lamb kleftico (oven-cooked shank) is tender and full of flavour, and other appealing mains include beef mince balls, moussaka and stifado – a rabbit stew cooked in shallot sauce. By far the best value for money is the pita gyro, consisting of pork, tzatsiki, tomato, onion, chips and cayenne pepper, also available to take away. Yiamas Greek Taverna claims to offer ‘a little taste of Greece’ and with local wines and homemade desserts including baklava and kadifi (nuts, shredded pastry and syrup baked in the oven), it certainly lives up to this promise. + Authentic Greek cuisine at excellent value - Décor a bit spartan

If you’re after an all-round snapshot of traditional Scottish cuisine then Arisaig may well meet your expectations. Quality Scottish ingredients include Perthshire beef and venison, fresh catch of west coast crab, scallops and Shetland mussels and salmon, plus there’s a cracking choice of gins, vodkas, beers, cider, rum and whiskies, all from Scotland. The venue sits amid the hubbub of the twinkly lit and cobblestoned Merchant Square courtyard, where regular entertainment and craft market stalls sit side by side with its diners, enjoying dishes from a kitchen that knows how to pack enough flavour punch to satisfy. Bite into a starter of oat and breadcrumb-coated Clava brie to release a flow of velvety creaminess – its accompanying cranberry and redcurrant compote has just enough sharpness to cleanse the tongue. Rump of lamb could be more evenly tender, yet flavour is balanced with butter bean and smoked pancetta cassoulet. There’s no skimping on provenance for dessert either – queen of tarts is a snappy, buttery shortbread base with fresh and zingy Chantilly cream enriched by a scattering of fresh red and black berries. + Great taster of Scottish food and drink - Traditional dishes aren’t always the most imaginative

Bo’Vine Meats and Wines 385 Byres Road, West End See Steakhouses & Burgers

The Bothy 11 Ruthven Lane, West End (Map 9A: C2, 41) 0141 334 4040, bothyrestaurant. co.uk | £12.95 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

Cobbled and traffic-free, Ruthven Lane off Byres Road is a great place to tuck away a restaurant. The Bothy makes the most of its location here, with vintage-style etched-glass doors opening on to an outdoor seating area complete with potted greenery and tables used year-round – wind and rain permitting, of course. If that sounds a little Mediterranean then inside is pure unadulterated Scottish, with thistlepattern wallpaper, open fireplaces and kilted waiting staff – the design aiming for the look of a Highland shooting lodge. Food is hearty, largely Scottish-inspired dishes with few surprises – there’s chicken stuffed with black pudding, excellent fish and chips, quality Scotch beef and lamb, and a juicy steak-and-haggis burger. Unsurprisingly the Bothy attracts tourists and business visitors with its teuchtery

theme, although a two-course ‘braw deal’ menu pulls in more locals before 6pm. Part of the G1 Group’s portfolio of pubs and restaurants, the Bothy has an unavoidable chainy feel to it, but good cooking and a welcoming atmosphere make for a decent night out. + Outdoor area – in the right weather - No bread offered with starters

✱ HITLIST

The Brasserie at Òran Mór 731–735 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: D1, 51) 0141 357 6226, oranmor.co.uk | Closed Mon (Brasserie) | £18 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Impossible to miss at the corner of Byres and Great Western roads, the converted Church of Òran Mór stands like a one-stop citadel to all manner of West End activities, whether a gig or play, getting hitched (it’s a popular venue for Glasgow’s great and good), or just in the bar to enjoy a whisky from the extensive collection. There’s also food to be had, with a single menu now covering the whole operation, whether eating in the bar, John Muir Room or the more formal Brasserie. Offerings range from partial and full breakfasts from 9am and a selection of starters/small plates to pub favourites such as burgers, pastry-topped pies and fish and chips. Delve about a bit and there’s more upmarket options such as braised ox cheek, sea bass or pan-fried lamb rump, as well as seafood specials on the board. A heavy Scots accent on the food sees the likes of haggis bonbons, Cullen skink, chicken balmoral, and finnan haddie dished up. [Not recently visited.]

The Brasserie at the Chip 12 Ashton Lane, West End See Bistros & Brasseries

Brian Maule at Chardon d’Or 176 West Regent Street, City Centre See French

SCOTTISH ✱ Cail Bruich Deservedly among Glasgow’s top dining experiences, where passion, invention, sesonality and freshness combine with exceptional local sourcing to underpin a winning formula. ✱ Downstairs at Stravaigin ‘Think global, eat local’ is the mantra that underpins Stravaigin’s menus, showcasing the best local, seasonal Scottish produce in innovative ways. ✱ The Gannet A contemporary restaurant in Finnieston, with an appealing Scottish-inspired menu, inventive cooking and a cool bar. ✱ Ian Brown Food and Drink A friendly, casual little neighbourhood place – with the cooking of a true destination restaurant. ✱ Ubiquitous Chip Glasgow’s best-known restaurant – a trailblazer in sourcing and creativity, and still one of the best venues for a special dining experience.

Café Gandolfi 64 Albion Street, Merchant City See Bistros & Brasseries

Café Source 1 St Andrew’s Square, Merchant City (Map 7: C4, 42) 0141 548 6020, cafesource.co.uk | £14.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

St Andrew’s in the Square is a rare gem, a fine Georgian church now used as a performance venue focusing on Scottish culture. Downstairs in the crypt is the original branch of Café Source – this one opened in 2000, eleven years before its sister restaurant in the West End. The interior is a slightly odd mixture of modern metal and old wood, comfortable booths and bar stools, but the overall effect is comfortable and welcoming, even if it doesn’t quite live up to the architectural splendours above. The menu (exactly the same as Café Source Too, though blackboard specials differ) is strong on quality Scottish produce, and portions are generous. A trio of homemade terrines is a starter that would almost do as a main, and excellent fish and chips and sausage and mash are unlikely to leave much room for pudding. Slightly more refined dishes include duck breast, big salads and the fish of the day (pan-fried sea bass is a favourite). There are some excellent deals on offer, several of which include wine, while the à la carte offers decent value. + Hearty, wholesome Scottish grub - They could do more with the décor

Café Source Too Hillhead Sports Club, 32 Hughenden Road, West End (Map 9A: A1, off) 0141 357 6437, cafesourcetoo.co.uk | £14.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Tucked inside Hillhead Sports Club, in a car park off a particularly peaceful and leafy West End street, Café Source Too can’t depend on passing trade. Yet the fact is this accomplished restaurant – younger stablemate to Cafe Source in the city – is busy most nights and often packed at weekends, presumably through neighbourly word of mouth and repeat business. The families, couples and groups of friends filling the comfortable, light-filled space come for hearty, modern Scottish cooking with a focus on local produce (hence the name ‘Source’). Renowned suppliers are given a starring role – Ramsay of Carluke is mentioned repeatedly on the menu – in dishes such as smoked pork loin with slow-braised pig cheek, daube of beef or dry-aged ribeye steak. Alongside these well-executed and fairly refined dishes, there’s an appealing list of salads and sandwiches, a regularly changing choice of sausages served with rumbledethumps (mashed tatties with cabbage and onion) and haggis in various incarnations, including a vegetarian variant. It’s got good value, too, particularly with the lunch and pre-theatre deals. + Excellent neighbourhood dining - It’s in a car park

✱

Cail Bruich

725 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: D1, 52) 0141 334 6265, cailbruich. co.uk | £16 (set lunch) / £32 (dinner)

Since opening 10 years ago, Cail Bruich has garnered a string of awards built on its culinary ethos of quality, inspired and inventive cuisine, led by brothers Paul and Chris Charalambous. After a refurb in 2015, the restaurant has a modern,

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TIPLIST FOR WHISKY & GIN • Alston Bar & Beef Wellpitched and well-priced steakhouse with a plenty of gins in a subterranean setting. 173 • The Ben Nevis Like an old friend, the Ben Nevis is always there, offering up some of the best whisky in the city. 117 • Chinaski’s This East Villagestyle speakeasy does good food and a bourbon range that’d make Bukowski proud. 120 • The Pot Still Old-school, whisky specialist in the city centre, with hundreds of bottles and staff who know the lot. 125 • The Spiritualist Sumptuous bistro-bar with a show-stopping spirit selection that’s an undeniably class act. 127 • Virginia Bar & Rotisserie Merchant City bar from the Cup/ Gin71 group, welcoming you to the wonderful world of gin. 128

natural look and feel to it, offering an open view to the kitchen to glimpse the chefs, while a NOMA hardcover sits alongside premium Scottish spirits, botanicals and craft ales behind the copper topped bar. Menus evolve each season bringing fresh ideas and unusual

ingredients, many of which are handforaged. With years of experience in classical and modern techniques these guys know how to turn on the wow factor. A starter of sea bream ceviche, avocado purée, burnt citrus and fennel is fabulously fresh – all the elements interwoven with precision and balance like an art piece. Plump golden raisins and brown shrimp butter work gloriously against a main dish of sweet hake, with roasted cauliflower adding another delicious texture dimension. Valrhona Manjari delice (your unconventional chocolate orange) tastes rich, dark and decadent with just enough tang from the mandarin sorbet to leave a cleansing finish. + Inspired dishes with soul and passion - Still to try the six-course tasting menu

feels left out in the cold. Up for mains is a chunky portion of nicely cooked cod enveloped in lip-smackingly tasty baby caper and silky gherkin velouté, with crisp seafood bonbons and mini roast tatties balancing ingredients well, while roast rump of Scottish lamb is cooked pink-perfect and is devoured with ease, alongside the accompanying braised lamb layered potato. + Well-sourced Scottish ingredients - Cheeseboard straight from the fridge

City Merchant

✱

97–99 Candleriggs, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 17) 0141 553 1577, citymerchant. co.uk | £11.50 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

Glasgow’s maritime heritage is celebrated at this seafarer-style taverna in the heart of the city’s stylish Merchant quarter. Rustic wooden panels, framed prints and stained-glass fishy murals set the scene – as does the menu, which boasts quality Scottish meat and fish suppliers, wild mushrooms from the Cairngorms and legendary ice-cream from Scots-Italian firm Equi’s. As a member of the Scotch Beef Club, there’s every opportunity to marry your surf with your turf with langoustine and lobster available if you’re prepared to push the boat out. Provenance shines through in the delicate whisky-cured salmon and creamy mackerel pâté, which has just the right balance of texture, flaked fish and citrus zest – though the wee ‘crisp’ oyster

to see the chefs at work as you enter this subterranean space, all cosy-lit, rustic yet stylish, with natural materials to evoke a relaxed feel-good vibe. Knowledgeable, friendly staff will guide you through pairing notes if needed. The drinks list is impeccable, too, with a dizzying choice of Scottish gins, malt whiskies, homespun cocktails, craft beers and global wines. + Flavour and texture sensations - Hard to find fault

Fanny Trollope’s Cottier’s Bar and Restaurant 93–95 Hyndland Street, West End See Bistros & Brasseries

1066 Argyle Street, West End See Bistros & Brasseries

Gamba Crabshakk 1114 Argyle Street, West End See Fish

Downstairs at Stravaigin 28–30 Gibson Street, West End (Map 9A: F3, 70) 0141 334 2665, stravaigin.com | £25 (lunch) / £25 (dinner)

Downstairs at Stravaigin takes the whole culinary experience up a notch from that of the Café Bar above. Think fine dining minus the white linen – where precision, creativity and local sourcing are in abundance. Each element on the plate factors in a symphony for the senses. Pan-fried mackerel with red cabbage three ways is taste and texture artistry – from the crispy red cabbage twig embedded in earthy soft purée to the pickled mustard seeds popping in the mouth with a zing to contrast the sweet mackerel flesh on pomegranate and red cabbage relish. Braised lamb neck falls apart melting on the lips, while rack of lamb is pink-perfect, accompanied by spiced chana dhal and raita, sending taste buds tripping. It’s great

225a West George Street, City Centre See Fish

✱

The Gannet

1155 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 23) 0141 204 2081, thegannetgla. com | Closed Mon | £14 (small plates set lunch) / £26 (dinner)

Winner of our Newcomer Award in 2014 and two years on it still has a fresh, energetic feel to it. That’s partly down to good design – great logo, exposed brickwork, bare wood finishes – and genuinely warm and solicitous service. But the real point here is ingredientfocused cooking at once thrillingly novel (foraged scarlet elf cup mushrooms, ramson purée) and reassuringly hearty (Scotch beef, white pudding, potatoes in dripping). The triumph is how this great produce is handled and combined in dishes such as pan-fried cod fillet with a deeply savoury squid-ink sauce, a panko-crisp black pudding Scotch duck egg, tender red deer venison with poached pear and smoky burnt carrot, or a breathtakingly light blood orange

The finest steakhouse in Glasgow’s West End, Bo’Vine is a cut above the rest when it comes to serving up the very best from Scotland’s larder. Open 7 days a week for dinner from 5pm, and Sunday Lunch from 1pm Book Online at www.bovinerestaurant.co.uk 385 Byres Road 0141 341 6540

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cream with granita. The short and everchanging à la carte does that rare trick of making you want everything, and even the side-order of fat chips and complimentary warm sourdough are superlative. With most mains below £20 this is seriously good value, and tapasstyle small plates at around £7 (till 6.30) are genuine miniature versions of the full dishes. There’s an excellent wine list and a ruinously attractive selection of rare cocktails. + Extraordinary food at relatively ordinary prices - Not the most comfortable seats in town

the Royal Scottish Automobile Club and the subject of an ambitious restoration project a few years ago. A suitably luxurious venue for weddings and special events, it’s worth checking what’s on before you book a table. + Fine historic building - Wine and cocktails on the pricey side

The Sisters Jordanhill 1a Ashwood Gardens, 512 Crow Road, West End (Map 9A: A1, off) 0141 434 1179, thesisters.co.uk | Closed Mon | £15.95 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)

The Grill Room at the Square 29 Royal Exchange Square, City Centre See Steakhouses & Burgers

Hotel du Vin Bistro 1 Devonshire Gardens, West End (Map 9A: A1, off) 0141 339 2001, hotelduvin.com | £21.95 (set lunch) / £35 (dinner)

One Devonshire Gardens has been part of the Hotel du Vin chain for ten years, but the stately townhouse hotel – now stretching along all five of the properties in the terrace – retains its unique character. The same-but-different status is clear from the menu, which has a page of dishes created by One Devonshire’s own chef, plus a second page of ‘Hotel du Vin classics’ chosen by the group’s chef-director. The former goes for local and seasonal – Ayrshire beef, west coast seafood – the latter for old-school French, like onion soup and sole meunière. The 1DG page wins on interest, teaming rare and succulent Newtonmore venison with bramble jelly and black pudding bonbon, or gamey roast wood pigeon with a bittersweet combination of braised endive and pulverised hazelnuts. Excellent though the food is, you’re as likely to come for a phenomenal wine list (at least 28 by the glass, including some rare gems), or the elegant surroundings and ultra-smart service. It’s not cheap, but many others charge just as much without the class. + Elegant period features - Not really a place to let your hair down

Hutchesons Bar & Brasserie 158 Ingram Street, Merchant City See Bistros & Brasseries

✱ Ian Brown Food and Drink 55 Eastwoodmains Road, Southside (Map 8: A5, off) 0141 638 8422, ianbrownrestaurant.co.uk | Closed Mon | £13 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

A little run of shops in the well-to-do but hardly buzzing suburb of Giffnock may be an unlikely destination for those seeking gastronomic thrills, but chef Ian Brown has been serving some of the most interesting and satisfying food in greater Glasgow here for six years. Ian put in two decades at the Ubiquitous Chip before opening his own place, and he shares that pioneering restaurant’s focus on exceptional seasonal Scottish produce, prepared with care and imagination. A broccoli and cream cheese ‘crème caramel’ is a witty and surprising starter, and more to the point it’s delicious, with intense umami flavour and an intriguing pudding-like texture. Dependable favourites get a gently creative twist here – a fennel and almond crust on a salmon fillet, for example, or a roast pineapple ‘soup’ with coconut panacotta. At £13 for two courses the set menu is extraordinarily good value for cooking this good, and the à la carte is fairly priced, too. It may look like an unassuming neighbourhood restaurant, but Ian Brown Food & Drink is well worth going far out of your way to visit. + Creative, memorable, exciting food - A trek for most of us

City Merchant: a focus on Scottish meat and seafood at this enduring diner

NEW Number 10 Hotel 10 Queens Drive, Southside (Map 8: D4, off) 0141 424 0160, 10hotel.co.uk | £11.95 (set lunch) / £27 (dinner)

Number 10 is a boutique hotel offering Southside diners a unique setting to enjoy seasonal flavours of Scotland. Behind the grand Victorian façade is a modern and stylish interior with bar area, smart dining room and a decked garden outside. Dine on its great-value market menu, which sits alongside bar classics such as Cullen skink, handmade burgers, haddock and chips and signature steak pie. Or opt for the à la carte menu for something a bit fancier. Glazed Dorset goat’s cheese is the perfect partner for an elegant dish of refreshing smooth garden pea panacotta, dressed with pea shoots, croutons and micro herbs. Soft strips of monkfish are delicate meaty morsels served with a decorative swirl of crunchy coated smoked haddock duchess potato, buttery sauce sweetened with corn purée. From the market menu, pork belly gets the slow-cook treatment giving it that melt on the tongue sensation while its crackling edge adds texture and flavour. Rich and moist clootie dumpling comes all wrapped up in dainty filo parcels enveloped by not-too-sweet cinnamon ice-cream and custard. + Great value seasonal market menu - A bit heavy-handed on the salt

Number 16 16 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: B3, 21) 0141 339 2544, number16.co.uk | £14.95 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

Modest exteriors can be deceptive. For a small, mezzanined venue, Number 16 is surprisingly spacious inside, with whitewashed exposed brickwork, brass lanterns hanging from driftwood and gorgeous oak beams. It all makes for a pleasingly natural sanctuary to enjoy seasonal Scottish produce and continental flavours, delivered with plenty of imagination and flair. Deep-red beetroot gazpacho, refreshing dill crème-fraîche and strips of nutty pumpernickel bring texture, colour and classic flavours to a delicious starter of Shetland mackerel. A must-try are Shetland Black potatoes,

all earthy, floury and buttery – as tattie flavour goes, it doesn’t get better that this. Main dish options break the norm, with the likes of venison casserole, chicken and creamy leek pie, warm aromatic chickpea ragù with pickled veg, or pan-fried bream with smoked haddock kedgeree and curry sauce. For dessert, texture precision is evident in the dreamy smooth yoghurt panacotta complemented with lovely tangy fresh raspberry sorbet and winter berries. A true neighbourhood hotspot, offering good-value market menus matched by friendly service. + Well-sourced ingredients and inspired menu - Going back to work after lunch

The first of two Sisters venues in the West End, this one offers a unique loft-style setting with relaxed character – ideal for a bite of lunch or dinner with friends or family. A step up from the outdoor decking and you instantly feel aglow as you enter its cosy space – low ceiling, soft lighting, natural rustic hues and buzz of neighbourhood chatter. With Jacqueline O’Donnell at its helm for 18 years, the menu reflects traditional Scottish recipes – comforting hearty dishes with a touch of refinement, honouring Scotland’s quality seasonal produce. Savour the likes of Scotch beef and lamb, Ramsay of Carluke’s ham, oatmeal-coated haggis and black pudding with whisky cream. From Scottish waters, there’s crispy bite-size meaty bonbons of Uist crab, deliciously soft and flaky inside and bursting with flavour. While, chunky fillet of Shetland salmon dressed with velvety lobster cream and herb-crushed potatoes sends the senses adrift to days by the seaside. If Scottish desserts came as hugs, then open your arms to the Sisters’ signature warm clootie dumpling to melt the heart. + Uist crab bonbons - Sharp watery custard

Ox and Finch 920 Sauchiehall Street, West End See Bistros & Brasseries

The Pipers’ Tryst The National Piping Centre, 30–34 McPhater Street, City Centre See Arts Venues

Restaurant at Blythswood Square 11 Blythswood Square, City Centre (Map 6: C3, 57) 0141 248 8888, blythswoodsquare.com | £18.50 (set lunch) / £30 (dinner)

Not content with feeding the guests of the on-site five-star hotel, the Restaurant at Blythswood Square competes for the local crowd with a wide range of offerings and special deals running through the day. There’s pricey à la carte, more keenly priced lunch, pre-theatre and evening market menus, smart bar food and luxurious afternoon tea to choose from, all complemented by glamorous cocktails and an excellent (if rather expensive) wine list. Food is standard fine-dining with emphasis on quality local meat and fish, some of it getting the Josper charcoal-grill treatment. On a typical market menu a moist chicken breast is bathed in a delicate curry cream, while seared fillets of sea bass rest on a bed of earthy puy lentils. Service is smart and attentive, as befits the rather grand interior of this historic building, once

WINE & BEER

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FANNY TROLLOPES SPECIALISING IN LOCAL, SEASONAL SCOTTISH PRODUCE This relaxed, friendly and informal bistro in Finnieston is now serving food all day Friday, Saturday and Sunday

OPENING HOURS

Tuesday - Thursday 5-9pm Friday - Saturday 12-10pm Sunday, 12-9pm 1066 Argyle Street, G3 8LY T: 0141 564 6464 www.fannytrollopes.co.uk

Wee Lochan: imaginative Scottish dishes at this neighbourhood favourite

The Sisters Kelvingrove 36 Kelvingrove Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 31) 0141 564 1157, thesisters. co.uk | £12 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)

Beyond the traditional tenement façade and old stone steps, this venue feels more grown-up than its Jordanhill counterpart. In the dining room and two private booths, striking artwork by Philip Raskin captures mood, light and textures of Scotland’s coastline against natural wood flooring and hues of slate grey and plaid. It retains the same warm welcome and traditional Scottish recipes among its menus. A refreshingly light risotto starter comes infused with subtle pieces of Uist smoked haddock and winter leeks. It’s topped with a Corrie Mains Farm poached egg that oozes flavour and colour into the rice. Sunday roast is snapped up fast – the most tender roast Scotch beef with puffed Yorkshire pudding, glossy gravy jus and all the familiar root veg trimmings. Other mains such as fillet of Shetland salmon stay true to the kitchen’s sourcing policy. Salmon skin is perfectly crisp, flesh is firm yet silky and chunky buttery veg arrive al dente to retain all their deep earthy flavours. To finish, hit the sweet spot with the likes of puff candy meringue, honeycomb ice-cream with hot butterscotch sauce. Or, if you’ve never tasted clootie dumpling, then this is the place to try it. + Lovely service - Menus very similar

Two Fat Ladies at the Buttery 652 Argyle Street, West End See Fish

✱

Ubiquitous Chip

12 Ashton Lane, West End (Map 9A: C2, 34) 0141 334 5007, ubiquitouschip.co.uk | £16.95 (set lunch) / £33 (dinner)

There’s nowhere quite like the Chip. In the 1970s it led a revival of pride

and interest in Scottish produce that influenced the global slow food movement – and throughout the world if you’ve heard of one Glasgow restaurant it’s this one. Perhaps surprisingly after 45 years, the Chip is still bursting with energy and charm. Service still works like a well-oiled machine, the wine list is still one of the most interesting in Scotland and the beautiful interior with its cobblestone floor, bright atrium and profusion of greenery is still a wonderfully convivial place to dine. The menu strikes a balance between old and new, with Chip favourites such as haggis and excellent steaks rubbing shoulders with exciting, innovative creations – slow-cooked pig cheek with caramelised yoghurt, walnut, fenugreek and black olive is an extraordinary combination of complex and contrasting flavours. Another is tender roe deer (‘venison’ wouldn’t be precise enough here) with smoked potato and cocoa. The high quality of ingredients, expert cooking and smart setting may not come cheap, but the Chip remains an essential destination for any self-respecting food lover. + Top dining in an unbeatable atmosphere - Sides can be mostly unnecessary

Wee Lochan 340 Crow Road, West End (Map 9A: A1, off) 0141 338 6606, an-lochan.com | £14.95 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)

There are imaginative Scottish dishes aplenty at this reputable and stylish neighbourhood café-bistro, whether perusing for a spot of lunch, set pretheatre two or three-courser, or relaxed à la carte dinner. From a starter of sumptuous juicy pan-fried scallops with chorizo on velvety artichoke purée to crisp and light tempura of monkfish and tiger prawn with scoopable homemade tartare sauce, it’s a joyous feast for the senses. Fillet of sea bass is a hearty main portion and gets the whole Asian treatment with deliciously chewy umami

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crab dumplings, cleansing fragrant rice and rich chilli, ginger and lime tamarind butter. Tender guinea fowl is paired well with traditional colcannon ‘spring veg’ mash, bacon crisp and dreamy caramelised apple and cider jus. With its warm feel-good vibe and appealing list of regional wines, Scottish craft beers and spirits to boot, Wee Lochan has all the hallmarks of a ‘wee lock-in’ – if only. Make room for heart-racing sticky toffee pudding or colourful passion fruit tart with cleansing snow-white lime sorbet for a satisfying finish. + Enticing menu of fine Scottish produce - Undersells itself

The Western Club Restaurant 32 Royal Exchange Square, City Centre (Map 6: F4, 117) 0141 248 2214, theclubrestaurant.co.uk | £18 (set lunch) / £29 (dinner)

Sharing premises with a venerable private members’ establishment in Royal Exchange Square, this smart, rather formal dining space does have something of a ‘clubby’ feel to it. Appearances are deceptive though, as the restaurant is leased and run by the people behind nearby Urban Bar and Brasserie – and fully open to the general public. The Urban lineage shows in modern food that’s clever without being outlandish, strong on Scottish produce but not rigid about local sourcing. A rich and runny duck egg is fried in crispy panko breadcrumbs and served with black pudding and sweet crushed peas, for example, while a perfectly soupy risotto of cauliflower and leeks is distinguished by a scattering of truffle shavings. The menu changes every two months but expect fine west coast fish, Ayrshire ham, Scotch beef, lamb and venison, and excellent thick-cut chips. Desserts, such as an intense chocolate tart with mint ice-cream, are a strong point, too. Given the elegant surroundings, smart service and precise, satisfying cooking, prices are pretty good value, particularly on the lunch and early-evening market menu. A welcome member of Glasgow’s smarter dining ranks. + Brilliant thick-cut chips - Market menu cut-off is a little early

TIPLIST FOR GROUPS & LIVELY PARTIES • Balbir’s Balbir’s offers traditional Indian food with a modern twist in the West End. 152 • Bar Soba (Merchant City) The most recent Bar Soba branch, dishing up pan-Asian fusion food and cocktails. 146 • Chaophraya First class Thai experience without too hefty a price tag, ideal for special occasions and big groups. 147 • The Corinthian Club Beautifully restored building serving upmarket Scottish staples and world food. 131 • Khublai Khan Mongolian Barbecue Restaurant This eatery offers diners an all-youcan-eat barbecue. 164 • Mother India Synonymous with curry in Glasgow, Mother India dishes up excellent food in stunning surrounds. 154

SPANISH ‘Small plates’ are everywhere these days. It can’t be denied – the eminently flexible and bounteous tapas system has conquered all. But our victorious Spanish heroes are still working the competition. Glasgow-style tapas can run from rustic, gritty blood puddings to flamboyant creations in silky sauces, from high-end dining to a colourful lunch in an earthenware dish. The best restaurants mix culture, creativity, fine ingredients and adventure with a good splash of Iberian charm. Reviewer: Malcolm McGonigle

Barça Tapas and Cava Bar Princes Square, 48 Buchanan Street, City Centre (Map 6: F5, 105) 0141 248 6555, barcatapas.co.uk | £10.95 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

The Princes Square shopping centre still has much lush and trendy charm after nearly 30 years in business. Hosting four floors of high-end designer outfits among twisted iron foliage and bleached yellow sandstone walls rising to an impressive glass cupola, it’s still a major draw for weekend shoppers and midweek expense accounts. Barça is one of a few eating outlets occupying the back area of the third floor, its tables spilling out of a tastefully decorated room onto two terraces. The restaurant is all terracotta tiles and comfortable leather seats with a chic cava bar dominating the back wall. Portions are generous, including a firm chicken breast in orange sauce and a nicely presented paprika pork loin on a bed of sweet potato purée. Nibbles, shellfish, poultry, meat and vegetarian choices are all present on the menu alongside some good-quality Spanish wines and sherries. The service is thorough and sociable, and salsa-dancing classes are available every week for those with a Strictly Spanish spring in their step. + A perfect blinged up hangout for weekend shoppers - Some dishes lack seasoning

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La Bodega Tapas Bar

1120 South Street, West End (Map 9A: A3, off) 0141 581 3401, labodegaglasgow. com | £9 (set lunch) / £15.95 (dinner)

Sited incongruously on industrial South Street, La Bodega lives and breathes proper Spanish culture. Not just a tapas bar, but a thronging place for dancers, musicians, hipsters and food-lovers. The interiors are not so much designed as assembled using whatever works, with more emphasis on the stage and dance floor than the spray of mis-matched tables. But it all sits perfectly within a remit that revels in the vibrancy and communality of rural Spain where food is but a set-up for the evening’s dance, fun and entertainment. The menu has three choices – tapas (small), portion (mid), and meal (with rice, chips or salad) – with the accent on sumptuous home cooking. Patatas bravas rises above the ubiquitous staple by keeping the potatoes dry and crunchy, delivering a hit of chilli on every mouthful. Aubergine topped with mozzarella and roasted peppers is rich, gooey and filling, while chicken and chorizo is sparkling with fresh harmonious herbs. La Bodega is always thriving to the pulse of soulful Spanish tunes and an adjoining dance studio spawns enthusiastic participants for the many evenings of music and salsa. A real experience. + The lively ‘back to basics’ spirit is incredibly good fun - Back to basic toilets not so much fun

Brutti Compadres 3 Virginia Court, Merchant City See Bars & Pubs

Café Andaluz 2 Cresswell Lane, West End (Map 9A: D1,

✱ HITLIST

SPANISH ✱ La Bodega Tapas Bar An eccentric but authentic tavern moving to its own quirky Spanish beat – great food, great service, great fun. ✱ Rioja With mighty big flavours in small dishes, this fun and friendly Finnieston diner is pushing to keep tapas lively and interesting.

46) 0141 339 1111, cafeandaluz.com | £9.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Entering its fourteenth year as a mainstay on Cresswell Lane, Café Andaluz is surely getting something right. The basement room is surprisingly large with light walls, multicoloured ottoman lamps and stocky wooden furniture. The menu has been tweaked over the years and is brimming with subtle seasonings and highlights that bring a touch of modern sparkle to old favourites. Grilled sea

Contemporary Spanish tapas with an authentic twist

La Boca 189 Hope Street, City Centre (Map 6: D3, 55) 0141 237 7575, labocaglasgow.com | £7 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

It’s easy to forget the roar of city centre traffic once ensconced in this this cosy family-run venue, which is bustling by day and all candlelit charm at nightfall. A well-stocked sturdy wooden bar gives way to the dreamy back area, where the low-lighting catches hints of blue Iberian tiles and framed festival posters invoking the feel of a snug tavern. Head chef Paco Querentes cooks to order with meat, fish and vegetarian tapas well represented. Carne con tomate is a slowcooked traditional stew with soft yielding pork in a piquant tomato sauce, while spinach croquettes are light and fluffy, layered with sharp bursts of ripe blue cheese. Also of note is morcella – a light, crumbly black pudding from Burgos in Northern Spain, and queso – slivers of fruity manchego cheese served with sweet grapes. With its relaxed and chatty service, nicely priced wine list, monthly wine tasting nights and an express lunch menu at just £7 for 3 dishes, La Boca is building – and justifying – a fine reputation in this bit of town and beyond. + Great value, especially at lunchtime - Tables are a bit huddled

1116 Argyle Street, Finnieston Glasgow, G3 8TD 0141 334 0761 riojaﬁnnieston.co.uk

C /Rioja Finnieston

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bass in a sharp salsa of basil, tomatoes and shallots in a sherry vinaigrette works beautifully, as does carrillada de cerdo – slow-cooked pork cheeks with a sweet honey glaze in a deep red wine sauce. Vegetarian choices include asparagus tips encrusted with crushed black pepper and manchego cheese with bright lemon notes and a splendid gratin of potatoes layered in garlicky cream with a crispy cheese topping. Service is lively and affable, contributing to the spirited atmosphere that seems to pervade here even on quieter nights. With almost two thirds of the menu gluten-free and allergen guides available for all dishes, it’s great to see a popular restaurant driving up dietary and labelling standards. + Attention to detail and punchy flavours - Non-cushioned wooden seats

Café Andaluz 12–15 St Vincent Place, City Centre (Map 6: F4, 121) 0141 222 2255, cafeandaluz.com | £11.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Perfectly positioned just off George Square to catch the weekend thronging masses, this busy branch of the Di Maggio’s group Spanish offerings has a constant throughput of lunchers, shoppers and evening carousers drawn by abundant deals and a fun, informal atmosphere. White-washed walls and a smattering of North African fixtures create a generic European vibe, while the stone floors and mosaic tiles bounce lively conversations around the room. Since much of our Scottish seafood is shipped off to Spain, a starter of Shetland mussels cooked in white wine with a light cream and shallot broth seems apt – fresh and tasty with a lingering breezy tang. Chorizo in a bowl of tomato sauce thickened with the sprinklings of a fine black pudding is meaty and spicy, while an aubergine stuffed with couscous, peppers and manchego cheese is sprightly on the tongue but robust and filling. Tasteful touches like freshly baked bread, local sourcing and amicable waiting staff help lift this branch of Café Andaluz to more than the sum of its corporate parts. + Attention to detail and punchy flavours - Desserts less exciting than the mains

Cubatas 108 Elderslie Street, West End (Map 9B: F2, 44) 0141 243 2227, cubatas.co.uk | £5.95 (3 tapas) (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

By day Cubatas does a roaring lunch trade being ideally located amid offices and boardrooms around Berkeley and Elderslie streets. At night it transforms into a cosy candlelit nook, with deep brown walls giving way to flashes of original stone work, leather benches and tiled stone floors. Punchy flavours are the hallmark of head chef Juan Perrez-Jimenez. He knows how to ramp up a dish by exploiting a large palette of spices and colours to add unexpected highlights and twists. Pork cheeks cooked in red wine are deliciously tender, bolstered by rich red port sauce, while fried halloumi cheese is given sweetness and sharpness by a bright blueberry jam. A skewer of chicken kebab is steeped in a deep dark marinade and comes buzzing with North African spices while crispy balls of yielding beef and wild mushroom croquettes are enriched by a sweet and fruity apple sauce. Friendly and conversant floor staff work the room with ease attending to a wide array of families, couples, workers and foodies enjoying set price deal options and

Café Andaluz: two branches for Spanish food from the Di Maggio’s group

a splendid beer garden when the sun shines. + Creative cooking, lively flavours - Not open till 2pm on weekends

El Gusto 31 Gibson Street, West End (Map 9A: F3, 72) 0141 334 7139, elgustofood.com | £7.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

A recent refurbishment has accentuated El Gusto’s informal bistro feel, highlighting exposed stone walls, wooden floors, tiled tables and upholstered benches scattered with mismatched cushions. Sprightly owner Guillermo de la Orden, a former chef at Malaga on the Southside, can frequently be found holding court front of house or in the kitchen. When not serenading customers with his fine ukulele repertoire, he is busy upscaling his superb tapas menu. Small plates come with substantial portions – highlights include a choice of fabulous paellas such as the mixta with chicken and fresh juicy prawns. Lush goat’s cheese is given lift with a glossy topping of sweet molasses and pomegranate, while conejo en salsa is rabbit stew with an almond and cinnamon aroma, rich and substantial with deep chocolate notes. Service is enthusiastic if a touch ramshackle here and there, but El Gusto will probably always feel like a work in progress since the chef is responding to changing tastes and sourcing through his exciting, creative dishes. Still lacking a drinks licence, it offers the perfect opportunity to bring your favourite tipple at only £3 corkage.

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+ Great flavours and creative spins - Still BYOB – but only £3 corkage

Malaga Tapas 213–215 St Andrew’s Road, Southside (Map 8: D1, off) 0141 429 4604, malagatapas.co.uk | £6.95 (3 tapas) (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Malaga is easy to find, along the busy thoroughfares of St Andrews Road with its cutesy frontage hinting at the stock Iberian colour scheme within – all reds and browns adorned with assorted bric-a-brac, tightly packed tables and heavy wooden chairs. Proprietor Cristobal Gonzalez is light on his feet overseeing a team of adept and chatty staff working the room with the kind of proficiency born of experience. Dishes are delivered when ready, straight from the open kitchen. The menu boasts freshly prepared authentic rustic staples alongside quirkier ingredients humming with lively flavours – highlights include medallions of pork in a syrupy sweet sauce with chunky mushrooms, and pollo al ajillo featuring lightly sautéed chicken slices in a racy roasted garlic oil. Pisto manchego comprises roasted peppers, onions and aubergine in a mild tomato sauce. Deals are good value, too. A hearty set menu for two can be had for £26.95, while the lunch deal is a winner at a mere £6.95. + Great buzz, great service, great food - Tables a bit tightly packed

✱

Rioja

1116 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 27) 0141 334 0761, riojafinnieston. co.uk | £12.95 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Originally a pop-up in this thriving food and drink stretch of the West End, Rioja has built ample confidence and customer loyalty to put its roots down and become a classy fixture in Finnieston. A chic dark space with mirrored walls, reclaimed lampshades and gigantic blackboards, the room has the air of a groovy wine bar somewhere north of Granada. Tapas come from two menus – classic and modern – and can be ordered at the bar or taken at cosy candlelit tables hogging the walls. ‘Clásicas’ include the magnificent fideuà, a sweet, fragrant stew with

earthy wild mushrooms and a rich juicy pork belly served with soft noodles, while the ‘Modernas’ menu boasts oodles of imaginative flavours and ideas packed into spirited dishes. Fried chicken wing lollipops are a fun serving with chunky honeyed meat, while rustic black pudding is rolled into a long thin crispy shell and accompanied by a rich apple sauce. The lure of stylish presentation, bounteous cocktails, and a lively and efficient serving team keeps Rioja busy all day and night – so booking, especially at weekends, is recommended. + Fun, friendly and full of authentic flavours - Signage – it’s easy to miss

Tinto Tapas Bar • 39–41 Hyndland Street, West End (Map 9A: A3, 5) 0141 337 3135 | £7.95 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner) • 138 Battlefield Road, Southside (Map 8: D6, 25) 0141 636 6838, tintotapasbar. co.uk | £7.95 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Gordon Craig’s mini empire of nicely judged tapas bars is spreading stealthily and it’s not hard to see why. Each has a hard-working kitchen preparing fresh food to exciting recipes – not always a given in this age of preprepared offerings. The original outlet on Battlefield Road is cosy without being too small. Dimmed lights, orange washed walls and tiled floors create a holiday cocina-type vibe while chefs scurry behind a mock cottage wall topped by earthenware slates. The food is full-bodied without being showy and has a few clever flourishes here and there. Pear and rocket salad with sherry dressing is sharp, fruity and delicious, especially on the sporadic hits of blue cheese. A good-sized chunk of pearly pan-fried hake buddies flawlessly with almond-tinged romesco sauce. From the farm, a bean stew laced with smoked ham, chorizo and morcilla has depth, smokiness and lots of perky highlights. Blackboards display specials of the day and an extensive sherry list keeps the Spanish authenticity quotient high – as does the sociable service. + Steady focus on high standards - Always busy – remember to book

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STEAKHOUSES & BURGER BARS

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STEAKHOUSES & BURGER BARS From the new wave of jackedup fast food joints, to the pricey pads where cuts and credentials of steaks are taken very seriously, this section covers all of Glasgow’s burgeoning meatiness. Menus might extol the greatness of their butcher or their ‘signature patty’, but remember it needs a consistent kitchen to back it up. And atmosphere goes a long way too, with places that don’t feel like they’re trying too hard actually standing out from the crowd. Reviewers: Malcolm Jack, David Kirkwood

Ad Lib 111 Hope Street, City Centre (Map 6: D4, 84) 0141 248 6645, adlibglasgow.com | £13.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Neither steakhouse nor burger bar, Ad Lib is just a Glasgow classic that does really good steaks and burgers – an upmarket diner, where menus and artwork evolve and remain stylish while never trying too hard. Kerouac and Steinbeck look down from the wall, with Brooklyn and Weihenstephaner on draft. But these things will change – they always do. So, too, the small selection of steaks, but typically expect, say, a rump, a ribeye and fillet, a lovely smokycharred aroma and decent texture and flavour. The price of the burgers includes fries (that’s a bonus these days) and both the Moroccan lamb with harissa mayo and the Southern-fried chicken with sweet chilli & sour cream burgers are long-term favourites with big, satisfying tastes. The menu tends to flirt with some soul food as well, such as jambayala, or brisket marinated in Carolina brown sugar and bourbon – full and lip-licking and tender. Tried and tested desserts such as Oreo sundaes and pecan pie complete Ad Lib’s delightful American dream. + Its staying power, style and value - Bit draughty near the front

Ad Lib 33 Ingram Street, Merchant City (Map 7: D2, 22) 0141 552 5736, adlibglasgow.com | £13.95 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

The younger sister of the similarly American-themed Hope Street branch of Ad Lib is all grown up, having undergone a major refurbishment in early 2016 which makes overwhelmingly better use of the former fire station’s considerable size and period features. Marble walls and the original fire station clock are complemented by low-hanging bare filament lightbulbs and cocktail sofas for a mix-and-match retro feel. The slightly odd Pillars of Zeus burger special – Moroccan lamb, feta cheese, pulled pork, salsa and curried mayo – is a less harmonious blend, but you have to admire the sense of adventure. Much more satisfying is the starter of southern-fried chicken popcorn served with delicious smoky barbecue mayo – a different class of finger food. For all the mention of brioche buns and optional smoked brisket and Jack cheese toppings, Ad Lib’s core burgers stand out from the fashionable mainstream with unusual variants like Indian curried potato and chickpea. Maple-barbecued chicken breast is recommended from among the smoke house mains. From the sweets, double chocolate Oreo sundae with marshmallows and chocolate cake is a

fine American mess. + Good beer selection - The incessant electro-swing soundtrack

Alston Bar & Beef Central Station, 79 Gordon Street, City Centre (Map 6: E5, 92) 0141 221 7627, alstonglasgow.co.uk | £14 (set lunch) / £33 (dinner)

Alston Bar & Beef is located unexpectedly (and rather coolly) in Central Station, down a staircase and into a clubby cavern of arches and stone and aquamarine. The Glendola Group have done a great job converting it into a thoroughly modern steakhouse, in the style of those that have sprung up in London in recent years. There are macho touches throughout, such as the ‘beef and cheese box’ – a considerable collation of pastrami and smoky bresaola with toast, cornichons and an entire round of warmed camembert; or the meatiest of mixed grills – swollen, rich beef sausage competing with Stornoway black pudding and a fat rump medallion, alongside jus and grilled bone marrow. All steak is from the same butcher in East Lothian, and is dry-aged for at least 35 days. It’s got good depth of flavour and is cooked properly. On Tuesday nights they let you BYOB, which is fairly unique for this sort of spot. As the name suggests, Alston is also a bar (and a better one than most drinking options in Central) with classy gin cocktails and moody lighting. + Lovely use of an interesting space - Can lack intimacy

Bo’Vine Meats and Wines 385 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: D1, 50) 0141 341 6540, bovinerestaurant. com | £24 (dinner)

As both a Byres Road-facing dinnertime grill and a hotel restaurant serving the Grosvenor Hilton, Bo’Vine Meats and Wines balances the two halves of its dual offering pretty successfully. It’s the former thing first and foremost, with its moody low-lighting and roomy leatherclad booths, selection of metropolitan pre-dinner cocktails and range of skillfully prepared and served rump, sirloin, rib-eye, fillet and chateaubriand steaks plus obligatory lobster and surf ’n’ turf. But the hotel aspect adds another, something-else-for-everyone layer to the menu. Main courses can range from wild mushroom and cheese ravioli to a beef burger, sea trout fillet and beef stroganoff. Bo’Vine’s a bit middle-ofthe-road relative to more focused rivals, but likewise that’s what makes it a good safe bet when dining with for instance large parties (to which its spacious layout is also very well suited). Try and make it for the early-dining market menu if you can – smoky chargrilled sirloin steak with a steel basket of triple-cooked chips and fiery peppercorn sauce followed by a childhood-nostalgia-trip tall ice-cream sundae for just £14.95 is solid value for money. + Broad menu makes for a good allrounder - Late 90s guitar music time-warp soundtrack

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Bread Meats Bread

102–104 St Vincent Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 71) 0141 249 9898, breadmeatsbread.com | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

‘Peak burger’ in Glasgow was probably 2015, but Bread Meats Bread always felt like it had staying power. A roaring lunchtime/early evening trade bears this out. Their burgers are a great balance of the ‘gourmet’ and the sort of lip-licking guilt that, well, burgers are allowed to invoke. Big flavours, with high quality (and not too sweet) brioche rolls. The black label range includes a classic bacon

cheeseburger, while the red label puts nduja sausage through the patties for a grizzly heat. Recent addition the Cali burger offers two or three thin patties instead of one big one. There’s much to love. The poutine – chips, cheese curds and thick gravy on top – is a hearty snack in its own right. Its typical of the salty, meaty satisfaction you get at Bread Meats Bread. The setup works, too – a buzzing little corner unit on St Vincent and Renfield, all grey metal, brickwork and glass, and a fast-food combo of window seats, shared benches and tables for two. A canny meeting of snazzy and swift. + Great value, great quality in a burgerheavy area - Often involves queuing for a table

BRGR 526 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: E1, 59) 0141 339 1199, brgr-glasgow. com | £8 (lunch) / £8 (dinner)

Out with the vowels at BRGR go a whole host of other things. No napkins – just a roll of kitchen paper. No cutlery, unless you count flimsy wooden forks. No ‘cole’ in coleslaw nor ‘milk’ in milkshake. Plates? Forget about it. Only the foil wrapping your burger comes in separates your meal from the table – that and a foldable cardboard ‘hawder’, a novel device for keeping your burger intact. This would all be highly problematic did BRGR’s hip utilitarianism not also mean good value for money (£4 burgers weekdays, and £2 beers every day), and did they not get the important stuff about right. Their burgers, served in mandatory brioche buns, are very satisfying – the blue cheese and bacon particularly recommended. Sides include hand-cut and sweet potato fries, onion rings and poutine. Their milkshakes – sorry, shakes – are made with Crolla’s ice-cream and come in soft and hard (alcoholic) varieties. The one trick BRGR misses is on beer – considering how otherwise on-trend the place is, it’s a wonder they don’t sell craft brews among all the mundane macro-brewery offerings. + It’d be rude not to say the burgers - More effort with the beers please

Buddy’s Bar Diner Grill 677–681 Pollokshaws Road, Southside (Map 8: C3, 7) 0141 423 9988, buddys. co.uk | £13 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Before St Vincent Street became ‘Burger Boulevard’, they were queuing out the door at Buddy’s takeaway in Shawlands for some of the first gourmet dude food to really make an impact in Glasgow. Soon after came this sit-in place on a resurgent stretch of Pollokshaws Road. It’s spacious and spartan, with décor that – with its reds, blacks and bulls – almost evokes a certain Chicago basketball team. Beef and brisket are smoked for up to 18 hours in Oklahoma smokers, and prices are competitive. Buddy’s is maybe not as exciting as when it first burst onto the scene, and dishes feel a bit thrown together at points, but poutines and mac and cheese are suitable fullon accompaniments for their signature thin patties, enhanced by mushroom, caramelised onions and bacon (the Buddy’s Special), or the Buffalo chicken sandwich with white cheddar and poutine gravy. They also do chicken and waffles, if you’re wanting some serious US dinerauthenticity. + Still the go-to burger joint south of the river - Struggles for atmosphere when it’s quiet

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The Butchershop Bar & Grill 1055 Sauchiehall Street, West End (Map 9B: C1, 14) 0141 339 2999, butchershopglasgow.com | £13.95 (set

✱ HITLIST

STEAKS & BURGERS ✱ Bread Meats Bread One of the original, best spots on the ‘burger boulevard’ of St Vincent Street – moist, meaty burgers and the right mix of fast food, dude food and good food. ✱ The Butchershop Bar & Grill Top-quality Scottish meats meet stylish cocktail bar at this slick steakhouse with impressive views across the park to the University. ✱ Porter & Rye Top quality, highly aged meats set the tone for a stylish bistro experience in the heart of fashionable Finnieston. ✱ Smoak A well-travelled popup kitchen now rooted in Royal Exchange Square with locally sourced smoked meats, homemade sauces, pickles and craft beers.

lunch) / £29 (dinner)

From the smart cut of the waiters in jeans, white shirts and black ties to the trim cut of the steak on your plate, the Butchershop exudes high standards and confidence like next to no other steak restaurant in Glasgow. Said waiters you may find a touch over-exuberant in their eagerness to impress and please, but more importantly they seem well trained and their guidance is to be trusted, be it on recommended dishes or wine pairings. Between the stripped brick walls, leather booths and moody low-lighting there’s an old-timey Manhattan feel to the atmosphere, but the food strives to be contemporary. Cuts on the bone are a novel and visually impressive new offering, though they’re so big they only work as sharers. A classic fillet steak with hand-cut chips is a fine piece of meat cooked to perfection. If you don’t finish with a dessert – and the lemon meringue pie with tangy lemon sorbet at its centre says you should – then finish with a cocktail. The mint gin fizz is, like the Butchershop in general, a particularly satisfying mix of style and substance. + Fantastic views of Kelvingrove museum and the University - The beer selection is a bit boring

CAU Glasgow 222–224 Ingram Street, Merchant City See Round the World

The Grill on the Corner 21–25 Bothwell Street, City Centre (Map 6: D4, 83) 0141 248 6262, blackhouse. uk.com/glasgow | £20 (lunch) / £30 (dinner)

Despite being part of a UK-wide chain of Blackhouse steak restaurants, the Grill on the Corner – its bright strip-light lettering an unmistakable sight at the intersection of Bothwell and Wellington streets – strives to retain an element The List Eating & Drinking Guide 173

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GLASGOW

TABLE Talk

ROB LATIMER ON THE JOURNEY FROM LONDON TO THE WEST OF SCOTLAND VIA NOMA My qualification in illustration and graphic art led me into a career in animation, which I pursued in London for a decade with a company called Studio AKA. I loved living in London but I knew I couldn’t stay there forever. My partner Pam has been a chef for many years and hers was a world I became increasingly interested in. We talked for years about having a restaurant, then Pam got a job on the Isle of Iona as a head chef and I worked in front of house. We went on to work in restaurants like Noma and Fäviken, in northern Sweden, before returning to Scotland. We went up to Strathlachlan and saw Inver in spring 2015 and knew we had to go for it. My experience in Photoshop has helped with designing things like posters for the restaurant. We always try and do things that look decent – no Comic Sans. They key is not to try too hard, otherwise it looks contrived. That can be applied from table settings, to the way we display our specials. And of course, what Pam comes up with in the kitchen is incredibly creative. The restaurant has also had input by creative members of both our families. My sister, who is an interior designer specialising in restaurants, has just redesigned our bar area, and her husband, a joiner, built it. Pam’s dad is an architect and he has designed four bothies we plan to open as self-contained accommodation on a piece of land next to Inver. ■ Rob Latimer, along with Pam Brunton, co-owns Inver restaurant. inverrestaurant.co.uk

of independence, with some regional identity courtesy of locally brewed WEST lager and Irn Bru. Suffice to say, it’s the cow meat that above all else keeps a steady stream of customers filling this large, low-lit city centre favourite seven nights a week. The 200g fillet is a house best seller. Less so the wagyu fillet, but then it’s only high-rollers that can afford to lay out £55 for a cut of this famously tender Japanese breed. Among their monthly-changing best of British beef specials, a sirloin of Redman Limousin comes in just the right side of £30. Unusually for a steakhouse, fajitas are another Grill on the Corner classic and they sell like loco, even the in-flight meal style tray plate they come on is a bit cheesy. Once you’re done dining you can relax with a cocktail in the spacious bar through until midnight. + Delicious cocktails - Blunt steak knives literally do not cut it

The Grill Room at the Square 29 Royal Exchange Square, City Centre (Map 6: F5, 113) 0141 225 5615, grillroomglasgow.com | £16.50 (set lunch) / £35 (dinner)

Steakhouses are allowed to have a touch of swankiness about them, which the Grill Room at the Square embraces with neon gusto. It’s the in-house restaurant of the private members-only venue 29, but this is no old boys’ club. Wooden and leather furniture compete with glitzy details that remind you that, in fact, the One Up nightclub is only next door. An accessible menu (including modern pub favourites such as lamb hotpot and chicken teriyaki) makes sure to show diners that steak has decent credentials if it wants to be a member here: there’s a USDA grainfed sirloin, all the standard British cuts (28-day-aged Scotch Beef Club standard), and a very ‘on-trend’ bone-in ribeye with lovely depth and texture. A wagyu steak at under £30 is another competitive touch, with the requisite delicate, marbled ‘give’ to the meat in full presence. Smaller plates such as smoked chicken caesar or beef rillettes are similarly tasty and refined, without ever being risky. This place knows what it is, and plays its upwardly mobile hand pretty well. + Wagyu beef for under £30 - A venue too big and brash for some tastes

Ketchup 44 Ashton Lane, West End (Map 9A: C2, 32) 0845 166 6011, ketchupwest.co.uk | £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

The G1 Group’s bright and loud but somewhat dowdy-looking Ashton Lane burger diner Ketchup is due a needed refurbishment sometime in 2016, with a new menu coming in as well. But expect the broad strokes of what they do to remain much the same – cheap and cheerful burgers and sides and sweet things, all at good value for the students and young people throbbing the area, and with late opening hours to match – making it a good shout for a post-pub sober-me-up. Such is their position in the marketplace, Ketchup’s cup doesn’t exactly runneth over when it comes to quality. We’ll say just one word when it comes to the fries and that word is ‘McCain’, while milkshakes are more milk than shake. But you’ll get a hearty good feed out of one of their toppingsstuffed beef, chicken and veggie burgers, such as the hickory-smoked bacon, pepper jack cheese and green peppercorn sauce bedecked Incredible Hulk. Beerswise they don’t disappoint with Innis & Gunn and Brooklyn by the can, and draft Pilsner Urquell poured in chunky

tankards. + Staff very attentive to dietary requirements - A toilet seat hanging off

Ketchup 18 Moss Side Road, Southside (Map 8: A4, 21) 0845 659 5903, waverleytearoom. co.uk | £8.99 (set lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Ketchup, G1’s nod towards the gourmet burger trend, occupies the right-hand side of the menu in this, their main Southside outpost. It’s a decent match – the Tea Rooms is an interesting space with outdoor and conservatory seating alongside the warm wooden tones of its main area, equally at ease as a Sunday brunch, bring-the-kids sort of place or on a Saturday night, when the late licence pulls in punters from the area. If anything, it feels like the ‘Ketchup’ name is being phased out, though the burgers will undoubtedly remain. Instead of brioche buns, they use a pretzel rolls – glossy and chewy and savoury. Meat has a good amount of smoky charring and customers can create their own feast or choose from quirky options such as a katsu burger, where panko breadcrumbs with some Japanese spicing coat a chicken breast. After being the first place to introduce the ‘fries are bought separately’ model, Ketchup has now gone back to including them in the price. Those prices – especially with the 2-for-1 code during the week – are very reasonable. + Chips aren’t extra - Burgers are always well done

Marco Pierre White Steakhouse Bar & Grill 75 Waterloo Street, City Centre (Map 6: C4, 82) 0141 226 7726, mpwsteakhouseglasgow.com | £18.95 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

Marco Pierre who? That’ll be the guy moodily staring down from huge photographs on every wall. He’s even on the menu, wielding a meat cleaver menacingly – as if as a warning to would be complainants. Fortunately there are few reasons to grumble at the famously hot-blooded celebrity alpha chef’s Glasgow branch of his steakhouse chain. With its cavernous ceiling and bright lighting, you feel hell of a small sitting in one of the roomy red leather booths. The ‘affordable glamour’ tests the definition of affordability – with little change from £30 for each of their four cheapest steaks. But the lean two or threecourse set menu presents a much more reasonable deal, and most importantly a high standard of cooking and service – consistently better than most local rivals – is maintained throughout. A starter of warm baked camembert with sourdough toast and roast vine tomatoes is smartly presented. The trimly cut Scotch beef fillet steak looks and tastes similarly fine, likewise the triple-cooked chips – perfectly golden crisp, fluffy inside. Trust staff on suggested wine pairings, and leave room for a grownup’s knickerbocker glory. + Well-drilled and attentive staff - Ever get the feeling you’re being watched?

The McMillan Southside 862 Pollokshaws Road, Southside (Map 8: B3, 14) 0141 649 9055, themcmillan. co.uk | £10.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

This standalone triangular venue on Pollokshields Road is standing pretty proud in its second year, well-situated in an area with lots of tenements and locals who have provided much of its custom since opening. Its clean, safe lines evoke an executive airport lounge, be it for eggs Benedict at breakfast or (with dimmer lighting) just a quiet drink in the evening. A starter-sized portion of ‘old fashioned meatloaf’ has a good hit of rugged bacon beneath a runny little fried duck egg. Nice touches like that pop up on the menu. Another is the blackberry crumble – all deconstructed and on slate, which sounds like a bad idea, but is actually a fruity explosion in the mouth alongside the warm breadcrumbs. Steaks are aged on-the-bone for 30 days, though they can lack the real chargrilled depth (and accurate cooking) of venues elsewhere in the city. In the mixed grill, it’s the subtle spice of the Perthshire black pudding that really stands out, though a juicy pork link sausage runs it close. + Keenly priced lunch and early-evening deals - Lacks a little intimacy

NEW Meathook 2 Partick Bridge Street, West End (Map 9A: B3, 11) 0141 339 5068, meathookglasgow.co.uk | £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

All faux-authentic Americana memorabilia from retro Coca-Cola adverts to a fake taxidermied buffalo head, the unimaginatively cataloguepicked décor at this BBQ diner and grill belies the quality of the cooking. What’s going on in the kitchen proves far more compelling a reason to visit newcomer Meathook, which is based adjacent to the foot of Byres Road in the former premises of the Butterfly and the Pig and Pop-Up Pig. They don’t go in for starters as such, just finger-licking bites to get you going including spicy buffalo chicken wings and deep-fried dill pickles. A bit of pulled-porkery is par for the course, but Meathook do it much better than most, with tender strands of smoky pig meat loaded onto a soft brioche bun together with crunchy, tangy North Carolina slaw. The crispy French fries are a cut above, too. From the grill, go for the sourpuss lemon chicken and smoked bacon skewers with green beans and sweet tomato dip – a zesty, summery dish full of flavours. The hot aspect is mysteriously missing from the hot chocolate fudge sundae, but the chunky milk chocolate drops give it satisfying crunch. + One bite of that chicken skewer and you will literally be hooked - £4.50 for small bottles and cans of American craft beers

NEW Miller & Carter 47 St Vincent Street, City Centre (Map 6: F4, 95) 0141 243 2615, millerandcarter. co.uk | £10.95 (set lunch) / £27 (dinner)

Any bitterness about the loss of Glasgow’s city centre post office is

ONLINE LISTINGS For full opening hours, further details on facilities, individual location maps plus web and social media links, go to

list.co.uk/food

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STEAKHOUSES & BURGER BARS

In association with

GLASGOW

Rye’s relationship with Gaindykehead Farm and their meat. Fifty days is the minimum, though it can be as much as 70 ((in context, 21, 28 and 35 are typical elsewhere), giving the meat here a considerable depth and richness of flavour. Impressive touches start from the industrial stylings and hanging cabinet of soon-to-be-consumed meat as one enters, to less predictable delights such as amuse-bouches gifted by the kitchen, or rotating beers from Scottish craft breweries. To start, pig ear scratchings in super-crisp breadcrumbs are a mouthful of smoky bacon, sharpened by piccalilli, softened by apple sauce. Mushroom dumplings seem incongruously Japanese for this menu, but the intense umami broth cleverly anticipates the main courses. Alongside fillet and ribeye are less pricey rump, onglet and bavette, all with strong charring and character, all very good. Unusual accompaniments such as garlic butter with pink peppercorns add variety, and a well-honed cocktail list and enticing little lunchtime/late-night menus further add to the considerable appeal. + The ageing of the meat - Starters have unnecessarily gimmicky touches

✱

NEW Smoak

6 Royal Exchange Square, Merchant City, City Centre (Map 6: E3, 116) 0141 248 4721, smoakbbq.co.uk | £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Smoak: a new permanent home for the BBQ pit-food specialists

soon dissipated once inside the recently opened branch of the 40-odd-strong Miller & Carter steakhouse group. Frankly, it looks way better than it ever did in its former guise. The capacious main room sits under an impressive domed roof, with swanky cocktail bar on one side, open kitchen at rear, while mixed booths and tables benefit from privacy partitions, and a couple of smaller rooms offer further woodpanelled intimacy. If there’s any doubt you’re in a steakhouse then the endless bull-related pictures, statues and murals will confirm that it’s about the beef here – and that beef is good. From a choice of several cuts, the 9oz 45-dayaged chargrilled rump comes properly, enjoyably medium-rare, unfussily accompanied by an overly dressed lettuce wedge, grilled tomato, fried onion ‘loaf’ and skinny chips – with a rather lacklustre béarnaise sauce. If you don’t want steak, you’re pretty much in the wrong place, though fish, burgers and salads make appearances. And do go to the toilet – the original bank vault door into the loos is an attraction itself. + First-class refurb - Second-class béarnaise

it prove as appealing when you push out towards the ’burbs? Taking over JJ Burnett’s handsome, category B-listed former Kelvinside railway station building adjacent to Gartnavel Hospital – previously the Italian Bistro – 1051 GWR seeks to find out if passions for microbrews and dishes of knowable provenance run as high in a more residential area. There are 20 beer taps with the changing range displayed on a big noticeboard that looks suitably like something you might have found in an old train station. The usual Belhaven and Williams Bros products appear, as well as more handcrafted draughts from Jaw Brew (represented by three cask ales and a wheat beer). Flat-iron grilled steaks, farmed in Duntocher, are another signature part of the offering, and they’re good value for money coming in at £26.95 tops for a fillet. But the core of the menu is upscale pub grub, from a starter of pan-seared Oban scallops and Ramsay’s black pudding to Scottish beer-battered haddock and chips, braised pork belly and various pastas of the day. + Pub grub that’s a cut above - More information on local suppliers would be nice

NEW 1051 GWR

✱

1051 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: A1, off) 0141 339 5575, 1051gwr. co.uk | £17 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

1131 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 33) 0141 572 1212, porterandrye. com | £33 (lunch) / £33 (dinner)

Craft beers and gastronomy with a strong local focus is a demonstrated hit formula in the city centre, but does

It’s probably the only place in town where your server tells you the age of that day’s steaks – such is Porter &

Still so newly opened at time of visit that they don’t even have their alcohol licence yet (it’s on the way, we’re assured), Smoak brings superior BBQ food to the heart of the city centre. A well-travelled pop-up kitchen prior to putting down roots in the compact Royal Exchange Square premises vacated by Swedish Affär, they well know by now what Glasgow’s dude food fans want and how to deliver it. Which is to say locally sourced meats dry-rubbed or brined overnight before marinating, then smoked ‘low and slow’ for up to 14 hours and served with typically homemade sauces and pickles. That makes for some seriously succulent and flavoursome jumbo chicken wings, burgers, hot dogs (venison – not your usual dubious composites), smoke-pit ribs and mandatory pork of the pulled variety. It’s mainly about the meat here, then, but veggies are better catered for than you’d expect with a mac and cheese burger, aubergine steak and various sides including crispy house slaw, onion rings and Texas toast. Premium American and Scottish craft beers are promised once that drinks licence appears.

TIPLIST FOR VEGAN & VEGGIE DINING • The Hug & Pint Impressive vegan dishes with added zing and live music at this neighbourhood hangout. 122 • Mono Music bar with live bands, a record shop and veganfriendly dining, plus ﬁzzy pop brewed in-house. 125 • Saramago Café Bar A cool, creative hangout inside the CCA, with exciting animal-free dining. 116 • The 78 Comfy sofas, laid-back service, good music, craft beers and low, low prices at this West End vegan café-bar. 126 • Stereo Chilled-out bar serving an entirely vegan food menu with a packed programme of live music and club nights. 127 • The 13th Note Café/Bar Vegan bar-restaurant popular with musicians, veggies and food-lovers alike. 128

+ BBQ food that smoaks pretty much

all competition in town - The dessert range could be wider

NEW Smoke Barbecue 2 West Regent Street, City Centre (Map 6: E3) 0141 442 0420, smokebbq.co.uk | £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Hailing from Yorkshire, with branches in Leeds and Sheffield, Smoke Barbecue is bringing their brand of pit food to Glasgow’s city centre. While there’s not exactly a shortage in town for places to grab some US-inspired lowand-slow smoked barbecue food, with nearly namesake Smoak BBQ nearby (pit fight, anyone?), there’s still plenty of local appetite for their offerings. Expect house-smoked brisket, pulled pork and ribs, plus burgers, shakes and lots more – though clearly not the place for a superfood salad and protein drink. And you’re going to get messy seems to be the message from these new dudes in town – and not only from the food thanks to a drinks menu featuring craft and global beers as well as boilermakers, being a shot of whisky and a half pint. [Not open for a full review at time of going to press – check list.co.uk/food for updates.]

Porter & Rye

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id P

reen Logie G

Roc he

EDINBURGH Mill Logie

NEW TOWN MAP 1

Mill

ill ie M Log ll Logie Mi

Warriston Path Boa t Gr ee n

Terrac

ie Log

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 177

Market Street or

East C

Cockb urn

12/04/2016 13:52 Mark

et S tre

New

k Stre e

Nort

B an

Carru

EDG16-Maps.indd 177

Old T o

Mound Place

Calton

George Street

EDINBURGH

Rose Street

Waverley B ridge

SNG

B an

21 20

l ne en

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF SCOTLAND

n ia

FESTIVAL THEATRE

66 67

Crichton Street

n lso i co st N 68 We

rge

George

do w

al k

Montagu

Me a th No r

Wa lk

Mea dow

dle

Mid

Pl ac e

St reet

Rankeillor

k al

ea do w

osscau sew

Clerk

o hl

w do ea

k al

ro Bo

East Cr

ond S hm

Clo Cowan's

Hotel du Vin 41 Namaste Kathmandu 75 Mums Great Comfort Food 42 Union of Genius 63 Malone’s Irish Bar 30 Tápame 100 Tupiniquim 88 No.8 Lister Square 30 Nanyang Malaysian Cuisine 68 Söderberg Pizza at the Bakery 58 Söderberg (Quartermile) 63 Peter’s Yard (Quartermile) 56 Meadow La Sylvesters 46 ne Buffalo 100 Field 94 Andrew Usher & Co 20 Coffee Angel (Southside) 50 10 to 10 in Delhi rk 76 a P d The Mosque Kitchen Giffor 74 The Potting Shed 32

t or

Ri ll

Townswom en's Guild W alk

al P

lac e

Ro se n

Argy

nde 178 EDG16-Maps.indd rP

Fin g

k Wal ade

Warr e

La Barantine Victoria 48 56 Hula Juice Bar & Gallery 54 57 Petit Paris 73 58 Maison De Moggy 61 59 Dragonfly 25 60 Mary’s Milk Bar 62 61 Tony Singh at Apex Grassmarket 62 Buccleuch47 Place The Mussel and Steak Bar 69 63 The Grassmarket Café 54 64 The Outsider 43 65 Me ado Vittoria (Old Town) 66 w L 82 a ne Divino Enoteca 79 67 Under the Stairs 35 68 Tang’s 68 69 Tower Restaurant 98 70 Museum Brasserie 19 71 Paradise Palms 31 72 Boteco Do Brasil 84 73 Checkpoint 38 74 Ting Thai Caravan 105 75 Brig

ace Pl h mont Crescen a t rch ne a se M Ro

178 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55

s Boy

19 18 61 99 30 20 78 70 95 94 83 23 62 73 85 105 49 99 90 103

Buccleuch Street

alk

nw atio

St Giles’ Cathedral Café Colonnades Italian on the Mound Whiski Rooms The Makar’s Gourmet Mash Bar Bar G & V Cucina alk W Ondine ne o wb HowiesJa(Victoria St) The Grain Store Mariachi The Bow Bar Oink (Victoria St) Maison Bleue Hanam’s Thai Orchid Cafe Hub The Witchery by the Castle Amber Restaurant Cannonball Restaurant & Bar

eet Str

Ric

Howd en Street

on Cor

17 18 19 20 21 22 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35

st We

Nicolson Stree t

The Scottish Café & Restaurant 19, 97 The Balmoral Bar 20 Hadrian’s Brasserie 40 Number One 96 Palm Court 56 Scotch 33 The Fruitmarket Gallery Café 19 The Milkman 62 Ecco Vino 25 Krua Khun Mae 104 Viva Mexico 84 La Locanda 79 Laila’s Bistro 86 City Art Centre Café 16 North Bridge Brasserie 42 Kampong Ali Kopitiam 66 The Baked Potato Shop 59 Royal Exchange 58 The Devil’s Advocate 25 M Angels with Bagpipes 90

ark R

Charles Street Lane

o hm

Simp son L oan

Mid dle Squ Me are ado Lan wW e alk

65 63

ce Hill Pla

Ric

Place

76 t Chapel Stree

C Cha alm lme me errrs sS Stre t ett

Nigh tinga le Wa y

ond Place Richm

78 78a

S tree

76a

e lac

th Lo

80 79

et re St

Nicolson

Fo rre st

52 53

Potterrow

Lauriston Gardens

rgh P Roxbu

ace

58 59 56 60

South College Street

Teviot Pl ace

g h am Park Terrace

e lac oP ist Br

t Pl

io Her

Keir Stre et

re St

e re

2A WEST

ngton Walk

t y Stre e Infirmar

Dru

Lau risto n Pl ac e

Lonsdale Terrace

1 2 2 2 2 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

Chambers Street

GEORGE HERIOT'S SCHOOL

Ro ad

Geo

gg s

ow er R ak

ist ur

Lauriston Park

Glen Street Brou

Panm ure P lace

George IV Bridge

Lad

Lauriston Place

Cowgate

dl Merchant Street

ridge

South Gray's Close

45 48 47 46

South Bridge

High Street

n Ca

arket Grassm

We est Po rt

tr ee

Blair Street

et tre

ad S

Lady Wy nd

nS so aw

High Street

Niddry Street

37 38

Stevenlaw 's Clos e

28 25

Borthwick' s Close Old Fis h market Close

22 23 Victoria Str 29 ee 24 27 26 36

ST. GILE S CATH HEDRAL 17

George IV Bridge

32 30

High Street

Lawnmarket

C astleh ill

Str ee t

ers Clo se

ad Ro

L dy La

Bre

a itt

Cockb urn

Chalm

s le

EDINBU RG CASTLE H

5 k Stre e

Bank Str eet

Ramsay La ne

s g'

or th

4 North Gray 's Close Carrubber's Clo se

n Ki

e stl Ca

Mound Place

North Bridge

WAV VE ERL ER R E EY STAT TIO TI ION N

Market Street

rrace ston Te John

Wate

RSA

35 34

tr lS

Princes Str Streett

t ee

Meuse Lane

Princes Street Gardens

Rose Stre et

Princes inces Street

The Mound

ad Ro

MAP 2 OLD TOWN

EDINBURGH

Castle Street

Rose Street

George Street

Hanover Street et

Frederick Street

Castle Street

MAP 2 OLD TOWN

e ac

George Street

tre et

eet

George Street

abl e

trees Walk

12/04/2016 14:04

Lon

d si

Roa

don

n ee Gr

Bru n

e ac

tre et

trees Walk

Le ith St re

Roy al T er r ace

OLD TOWN MAP 2 EDINBURGH Car lton

rr Carlt a o

Waterloo Place

gen tR oa d

Calt

on H

ill race Ter ent Reg

Ca lt

on Ro ad

LE E EY N

Ab b

21 20

R oad

Ab be yh ill

Roa d bie dyk es

Dum

Vie w

S tre et

Pleasa nce

Salisbu

gs ry Cra

dL on hm

n Str ee

2B EAST Queen's Drive

nard's St Leo

Hill

t et Stre Sstree d rndasr toLneao St LSe

Clo Cowan's

86 18 84 74 82 46 P lace ont 48 Bowm 49 74 54 88 23 31 23 24 96 78

Brai dw oo d

Ga te

ane

Howd en Street

Nawroz Festival Theatre Café Beirut Kebab Mahal East Pizza WildManWood Cr oss causew Spoon ay Black Medicine Coffee Company Brew Lab Mother India’s Café Jacob Artisan Bakery (S. Bridge) El Sabor BrewDog Edinburgh OX184 Café Voltaire The City Café Michael Neave Kitchen & Whisky Bar Street Rankeillor Civerinos

Park

g ai cr

rive n's D Quee

Brow

St reet

rd Giffo

Clerk

76 76a 77 78 78a 79 80 81 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91

R st We

Nicolson Stree t

Buccleuch Street

adow La ne

eet Str

19 nd Stree t mo ich Ric

t Chapel Stree ic st N We

on ols

ond Place Richm

ce Hill Pla

treet

e ac

S tree

Potterrow

View craig

16 Nicolson

L E

Stree

l rgh P Roxbu

South College Street et

ond Drumm

b ik edyk es Ro a d

Viewcraig St re

ood Holyr

nc asa Ple

t y Stre e Infirmar

it d Ga roo Holy

Queen's Drive

32 33 31

m Du

IS TISH CO TIS SCOT SC T THE NT NT AMEN AM IAME IA LIAM PARL PA

nd Horse Wy

lose 's C Re id

28 29

treet hn S St Jo

Saint Ma ry's Street

South Gray's Close

rs Street

Niddry Street

Sout S o h Bridge

Blair Bl i Street

Cowgate

25 26

y Close Entr ton's tle's Crich Gen

Canongate

35 34

lC eyhil rescent

Road Lochend Clo se

High Street

Old T olbooth Wynd

New Street

et S tre e t Je f

on Street nst Cra treet yS fre

Chalm ers Clo se

High Street Stevenlaw 's Clos e

Borthwick' s Close

Nort h Gr ay 's Close Carrubber's Clo se

rn S tre et

Mark

t-an- Ri

North Bridge

ockb u

Calton East

nces Street

k al

Pa rk St

n Le o

errace

La Garrigue Story Café Monteiths Whiski Byron Itchycoo Bar & Kitchen Edinburgh Larder Café Salt Horse Beer Shop & Bar Bar 50 Noodle N Ice Zuhus Pilgrim Dovecot Café by Leo’s The Whistle Stop Bar & Diner The Brass Monkey Tutto Matto Café 1505 @ Surgeons’ Hall Maki & Ramen Bonsai Bar Bistro

72 19 42 36 101 41 53 33 20 104 89 32 18 36 23 82 16 67 66

20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36

Reekie’s Smokehouse The Holyrood 9A David Bann Vinyasa Empires Circus Mimi’s Picnic Parlour Wedgwood the Restaurant Pancho Villa’s The Canon’s Gait Hendersons Holyrood Hemma Serenity Cafe Acanthus Oink (Canongate) The Kilderkin Café at the Palace

88 28 39 77 85 84 62 98 84 24 54 28 58 89 62 29 16

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 179 of

EDG16-Maps.indd 179

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19

Her

e Street

its m

Montagu

sid

tre

ra ce B rra Te

C alton Hill

12/04/2016 14:04

itt al St re e Sp

al k W ne

cent on t

Ma rc hm

re sc en t

Forbes Ro ad bo

Leven Stre et

ouses

rescent llar Cres iilla Milla M

ad n Ro ersto Palm

Thirlestane Road

n Lane Canaa

Jordan Lane

for

u Bea

Hermita age ge Ter race

Nile Gro

3B MORNINGSIDE 1 2 3 4 5 6

Bia Bistrot Salt Caférrace Te Hope Café Rocket Nonna’s Kitchen The Zulu Lounge Maison Bleue le Bistrot

Cluny Avenu e

37 44 57 79 63 73

Cluny Gardens

n rasto Kilg

d Road Blackfor

Road

Clu ny Dr ive

oad

race Ter

Gra n

Com

ce Terra

e rac

nT isto Com

ous

Dalh ie T erra

Lo an

Corrennie Driv

Corre

ce erra

ne Canaan La

nnie Gard en s

Braid Crescent

Oswald Court

e s Terrac

nan' Saint Ro

Canaan Lan e

Eden Lane rrace llan's Te Saint Fi

rrace Falcon G ardens nian's Te Saint Ni

ove ngside Gr Morni

ace air Terr Saint Cl

e a Driv

le Craig

48 105 38 62 103 60 60 47 59 42 48 e 55 Driv e id s62 g in rn 53 Mo 81

d Roa arn athe Ba Str lca rre sS t re et

el Eth

battle

66 28 37

isto nR

an use Lo

rt ou sC re

New

ett ee tre Maxwell Str

Whiteho

s Road garet' St Mar

Harajuku Kitchen Henricks Bar & Bistro The Apartment Bistro Black Medicine Coffee Company (Bruntsfield) Thai Lemongrass Place thearn Bisque Bar St & ra Brasserie Meltmongers TriBeCa Cuckoo’s Bakery The Chocolate Tree Three Birds Restaurant Artisan Roast (Bruntsfield) Montpeliers Clintonof Bruntsfield Ro La Barantine a d Moon & Hare 181 Delicatessen Falko (Konditormeister) Osteria Del Tempo Perso

Hermitage Gardens

ld P la ce

Bru nts fi e

Ja w

Road

Cre s

t Road

Springvalley Gardens

Braid Road

lc ro

s Bruntsfield Ga rd en

e adow

W rig ht 's H

Pla c e

Falcon

ad We st Falcon Ro

d Morningside Roa

Forbes Ro ad

Marchmon

reet Arden St

s Bruntsfield Ga rd en

ea th Te r

Roseneath S

aceeet oderrStr Spottiswo y Te alle ingv in Spr

rk eet eaStr Lauderdal eP gsid rnin Mo

Myreside Road

e Terrac

r Balca

Craighous e Road

Ma rd al e

lw art hG rov e Po

al an

nC Un io

ac e

Te rr

rth

Rig gh

ad Ro

so n Br y W es t

Un ion

on Uni

Rosen

on Avenue rk Ro Warrender PaFalc ad

o ad

kh ar tT er ra ce

IO DOMINION EMA NEM CIN

e side Plac Morning

nR rlin

loc

et Stre ont chm Mar

pe Tip

ll Place Greenhi

Ma rd al e

Ro se n Maeath rc P Newbattle Terra hm la ce

Newbattle Terrace

ce Crescent ont

Can al

Ga rd en s

Cr aig

M e

Ro ad ry so n tB

es W

at h al To wp

Po lw a

de ns

Ga r

ris on Ha r d Ro a

Ca n

Dewar An Du nd ee Te Br r ys Wo es tA

Ardmillan

Ro ad

Ha rr iso n

orriso M

d um Dr

dens Greenhill G ar

Forbes Road

al w

ll Church Hi

t en sc

race Ter ert Alb

As hl

CHURCH C HILL THEATRE

alk on W i gt min ce Lea erra T k r r Pa nde ene La r le r ab a St W

n Loa

M e

en Av

la tP

n tio na

Morningside Road

ri o

ro Co

lin er pp

ld ie

k Par ford ots Abb

e d Cr

Spottiswoode Road

R South Oswald n Lane Canaa

Oswald Road

180 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

12/04/2016 13:53

n Lane Woo

Mor

Canaa

sf nt

Greenhill Park

fo r

c err a

yT alle ingv

ark

sid

Springvalley Gardens

n Simpson Loa

Bruntsfield Links

ad Pitsl igo Ro

sT land

e Pa

Roa

Spr

g rnin Mo

o ad

nR rlin

pe Tip

ad We st Falcon Ro

Road Falcon

Te rra

eet

bo ts

use ho ite Wh

Gardens Greenhill

Plew

hous

e ous

Falcon Avenue

sf ie ld

Thirlestane Lane

Newbattle Terrace

e side Plac

Br un t

Chamberlain Road Chamber

Le ven Terrace

ad Ro

ns en arde Greenhill G ard

hill Green

y Nightingale Wa

tr ers S Chalm

s den Gar ton

ad Ro

Forbes Road

Craig

igh

Cra

side Ga

u Br

ris Lau ue

Street

Te rra ce

53 22 36 23 86 24 74 25 99 26 24 27 68 28 85 29 75 30 104 31 61 32 68 ll Hi h 33 76 Churc 34 54 35 43 36 104 37 62 enue 81 nds Av 38 Plewla 39 54 22 85

ie el

rk Pa

c ra

ce Pla

er eT yr nt Bl a e ac rr t a e Te cen Lonsdal es

er pi Na

c tri

Ro land

ue en Av

Morningside Road

Morning

EDG16-Maps.indd 180

lie

on st

en Av

Bruntsfield Links

Chamberlain Road

on st hi

nt sc e e Cre mure Plac Place n Pan

am gh ou Br

t r y an Stree

sto hi

rc 10 12

k P ar Warrender

3A TOLLCROSS & BRUNTSFIELD

1 The Forest Café 2 The Ventoux 3 My Big Fat Greek Kitchen 4 Mezbaan South Indian Restaurant 5 El Quijote 6 The Cloisters Greenhill Park 7 No 1 Sushi Bar 8 Indaba 9 Nutans Craighouse Gardens 10 Passorn 11 Machina Espresso 12 Ong Gie Craighouse Avenue 13 Tuk Tuk 14 The Jeelie Piece nt 15 La Petite Mort ce es e Terrace Absolute Thai Cr 16 Craighous 17 Pekoe Tea ce 18 erraRigatonis by The King’s T ert Leo & Ted Alb19 20 The Blackbird 21 Frontier rdens

ce Pla on st i h rc Me

Bru ntsfield Crescent

ad Ro

reet Home St

Gills

35 34 36 37

VeGar n on ne

in rt

rd Ga

tle as

Ro Et

ll ha st

Lauriston Plac e

race Glengyle Ter

ns de

Keir Street rk a

ce n Pla isto

Park ston

et Strre

Valleyfield Street

17 18 19

pe nt Mo

hi rc Me n

w La

Lauri

en Gle

ad Ro

et re St

4 St re et

oad

South

32 33

dy La

le st Ca st Ea

h ut So

d oa

h rt fo ld fi e ts un Br

Br un ts fie ld 31

Lane

Morning

St re et

Lau

ark rd P

n lin er pp Ti

Stable

in rt Ha

14 15 16

25 nto

on gt

Port

ur is to

fo ots

d oa d

eet s S tr Haile

ew Vi

k e lac

3 Br ou gh am

21 22

an Lo

s en rd Ga

Abb

rR fo r

li Co

ns de ns ar rde G Ga l al ton th rchis s e e W M

r ie el tp on

ar rP lie pe nt Mo

e pi Na bo ts

er pi

es Cr ie sp lle i G

ac rr Te

rk Pa

en Av

ad Ro

Meadowspot

ad Ro

St re

West

CAMEO CINEMA

lsl Gil

on gt in am Le

ay Gr

ist

on st hi

tle

et tr e rS ba

yla

Mid

e ac Pl

h rc Me

s Ca

nt sce re

on gt in

P on st hi rc Me

c ra

e Cr

e Gr n Du

e or lm

ad Ro

e ac Pl

s c ro oll tT es W

ad Ro Gi

Tarvit

e Plac

KI G’S KIN AT E THEATR T

r te

n to

er eT yr nt Bl a

l To

lace ore P Gilm

g in rt Ha

st Ea

la r pe Up

lls Gi

i nv

F st

ain nt

tri Et

th pa ow lT na a C ion ce Un Pla re o lm i rG we Lo

e ac Pl

ent

ace rin Pl Loch

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a Gr

c res nC sto hi

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t es

wille v so an n

ge rid

rl Ea

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lle

ra er

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Bread Street

e lac nP

n so

Pa rk

St e

or lm Gi

rth wa

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t cen res sC

so ri ar or e

s en rd Ga

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fi nd ra

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ac e

ve ro rG

ri ar

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Te rr

tA es

r Te

e ac rr Te

an k

MAP 3 SOUTH

r Te

e ac rr Te

tle

EDINBURGH

se ro

tle yr

yr M az el b

l Po

t tre e ne ve S La Gro n

im Pr

en t

sc en

re s c

Te rr a

ad Ro

h ac ro pp

Ro ad

n Circ

err ac

Pla

Li n

lry

La dy

tr e

u to

rac er l C reso n aur ri MLo

riso

e lac et n P tre rde e S Ha empl S

M EDINBURGH or

tre e t

r Me

MAP 3 SOUTH

nt ce es Cr rk a P eMorrison Street pl m Te

t tree ve S Gro

Mor riso nS

lac eP hi tc Ri

Morrison Street

h art

Morrison Street

y Br

a Ro

h rt fo ew Vi

Dewar Place Lane

Polw

t es

oa d hian R

hen Place

al k W

do w

Mi dd

Vi e

M ea

t tree

N or th

e ns

i ks ar

Newington Ro ad

Caus ewayside

Blac kw oo d Cres c ent

P st

Str eet

oad eith R Dalk

Oxford Street

st P res to n

Eas t Presto n S tree t ly Ho

Salisbury Road

Dryden Place

Upper Gray Street

Causeway side

Blacket Avenue

Minto Street Middleby Street

G rantull y Place Alfred Place

South G ray Street

Blacket Place

Duncan Street

Mayfield Terrace

Mar

Mayfie ld Terr ace

's C re sc t oad

Pl ac e

Savile Place

ice

Ma ur

d or

Macdo

ad wall Ro

West Savile Road

u en Av e ce

Ross

ad ss

East Suffolk Park

12/04/2016 13:53 C

nk in

Gilmour Ro

w la

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 181 Suffolk Road L

se Ri

i th

ill

rvat or y R oad

Suffolk Road

Craigmillar Park

m ys

EDG16-Maps.indd 181

ens

Gard

Ross Place

ew Vi

a Bl

th Pa

ll Hi

a Pl

Langton Road

rd fo ck

a Ev

oad ith R

38 40 33 52 65 65 48 50 56 68 44 60

are

Craw furd Ro ad

McL

East Savile Road

Cobden Road

Café Cassis Hellers Kitchen The Salisbury Arms Co bd en Pataka Cre sce nt Earthy Market Café Kwok Brasserie Wild Wood Café Cobbs or Terra ce TheVentn Pastures Saiko Kitchen Pow BHole The Rabbit urn Deadly Donuts

rrac rg ess Te

Peel Terrace

52 26 38 27 90 28 34 31 19 29 44 30 24 32 14 33 Mentone 86 Gardens 34 34 35 37 36 48 37 77

Dalke

Mayfield Gardens

66 66 59 68

Cult Espresso Blonde Aizle The Southern Summerhall Café The Royal Dick Bar & Bistro Mentone Terrace Clerk’s Bar Ichiban Los Argentinos Southpour Apiary August 21 Voujon

Glenorchy Terrace

Relugas Road

13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25

Crescent

Moston Terrac e

26 67 83 26 85 34 76 20

Queen

ht's

Brig

Road

1 56 North 2 Kim’s Korean Meals Relugas Lane 3 Illegal Jack’s 4 Greenmantle 5 Knights Kitchen 6 Southside Social 7 Tanjore 8 The Auld Hoose 9 Kampong Ah Lee Malaysian Delight 10 Filament 11 Anteaques 12 Sodaeng

Mayfield

3C MARCHMONT & SOUTHSIDE

a Bl

Obse

ad Ro

East May field

Gr ov

all Road Fountainh

dH ill

Ratcliffe Terrace

B ank

kfo r

od ro

St re et

Fo rre W alk Sq Midd ua le re Me La ne adow Ge or ge

Wa lk ea do w le M

Pl ac e

Ga te t of Cr its

S rd's ona

all

South Clerk Street

mm e rh

Scie nne s

ad ow

Bra idw oo d

Drive

S t Le

ce nt

Queen's

St Leonard's Hill

Street Street ds ds narnar St Leo St Leo

k al

St re et

ace West Savile Terr Bla c

Cowan's Clo se

Clerk Street

w do ea M

Pa rk sid e

e Findhorn Plac

Roa

Bernard Terrace

Lutton Place

Seton Pl ace

Blackfo rd Gro

hall

16 18LLL

Sa int C e's P lace

rte r

SUMM ME ERHA

South Lauder Road

St. Thomas Road

B ckford Ave Bla nue

Cha

hall

15 Hope Par k T errace

ath eri n

Pla ce

Cou r

Grange T Terrace

West Relugas Road

Cha rte r

He r

QU EN’S QUE HALL

St. Alban's Road

Rankeillor Street

West Ma y field

Roa d

Hau

9 10

Salis bury Place

Cumin Place

ald d

t P lace Bowmon

Scien nes G d ar

Grange Loan

Str eet

Montague Street

a Gr

Osw Roa

ld R oad

c w

Grang e Roa d

Lauder Road

wa ld

Gifford Park

Loa n

Eas tC r os sca u se way

n Loa der Lau

Bro wn

Mon crie ff Te rra c ce e

Ro ad

h rt No

Pl ac e

Gla dsto ne T erra ce

Sc ien ne s

Dick Pl ace

ern Park

Lo Os

W ch hlo ug ro Bo

alk

Melvi lle T er ra ce

Da lr ym ple C r escent

ng e

Lan e

Melville Drive

lace

Ha tto n

Mansionhouse Road

Lover's Loan

Wyv

Kilgra ston Road

nk Cre sce nt

Beaufo rt Road

Ri llb a

Livin gsto ne P

Ta nta llon

oad

Cha lme rs C res cen t

ane

es Cr

Palmer ston R oad

les tan eL

Str ee t

Mead ow

Fi ng al Pl ac e

Sy lva nP lac e

ath

Arg yle Pla lac e

35 36 37

oa d

Thir

th Te rra ce

Ro se ne

t on m rch Ma

Stre et

Ro se ne

Mar c hm ont Roa d

Ard en

tre et

ood eS tr e e

le S

Me ad ow

Town swom en's Guild Walk

Buccle uch P lace

Walk igade Boys Br

erd a

ce Pla h at chmont Cresce nt ne ar se M Ro

Wa rre nd er Pa rk Ro a

Sp o ttis w

Lau d

sta ne R

Stre

Howd en Street

ont

S po ttis w

ood e

Buccle uch St reet

March m

Walk Warre nder Pa rk Terr ac ce

n olso

rai g

walk

Leamin gton

k alk eW bon Jaw

t Nic

Lane ond

Wes

nd m o Stree t Rich

Nicolson n Str ee t

tion Corona

t Wes

Ric hm

Street

EDINBURGH

ig ra

Plea san ce

Cricht on

Vie wc

Lane

Hill Place

SOUTH MAP 3

tr e et

ac e

Charles Street

Chapel Stree t

Ter r

Loa n

s en

Richmond Place

ace

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4 WEST END

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B e La B ace La rrnac147 137 67 Chaophraya Te dsrride Te dsideoo 140 68 Amarone Woo W 156 148 69 Nippon Kitchen 148 125 70 Côte Brasserie 151 eTerrace ac rr e Te id e 145 71 Fratelli SartiWoodsidWoods 158 Hill S Hill Str treet eet 128 72 Charcoals 152 160 73 Bread Meats Bread 173 130 74 Vroni’s Wine ee Place acid Plds WeooBar & Champagne 129 164 Woodsid 75 Martha’s 138 146 76 Bavarian BrauhausLane e Lane 117 116 e ac ac Pl e Pl id 77 Social Bite 140 116 Weoodsid Woods 1 2 78 Juice Garden 137 149 Renfr R ew 79 Stereo 127 162 e e ac n Plac Pl n to to ew N ew N Sushi 80 Central 147 156 81 The Admiral 117 128 Sauc Sauch hieha iehall ll Str 82 Marco Pierre White 147 3 eet Street 4 174 Steakhouse Bar & Grill 140 6 5 83 The Grill on the Corner 173 125 9 84 Ad Lib 173 127 85 Barburrito 161 122 7 86 Tropeiro 166 117 S 87 PiccoloetMondo 160 139 et Stre re St ey el ey el rk rk 88 Where the Monkey Sleeps 141 146 Be Be KING’S 89 Ho Wong 145 155 THEATRE 90 La Lanterna 159 115 Bath Lane 91 Taco Mazama Mexican Kitchen 161 136 8 d 91 Tempus Bar & Restaurant 134 158 a d o a R o Kent R Kent 92 Alston Bar & Beef 173 151 Elmbank Crescent Elmbank Crescent 93 Yesbar 129 149 94 Topolabamba 161 154 West 95 Miller & Carter 174 119 96 Las Iguanas 164 t e t e e e Str133 Str tD 141 97 Riverhill Restaurant &eBar orset Dors 150 98 Riverhill Coffee Bar 143 141 99 Barburrito 161 West G West Ge o eorge 152 100 The Calabash Restaurant 164 Streer 151 101 Lychee Oriental 145 133 102 Chop Chop 144 123 103 Nic’s NYC Delintt Street 138 Stree StntVince St Vince 158 104 Sloans 127 rraceTerrace e 118 105 Darcy’s 120 T St Vin St Vinc Vincent St St Vincent cent S ent Str 158 105 Cranachan 126 tre et e et Stt Terrac Vincente Terrac e St Vincent 123 105 Obu Pan Asian 148 122 105 NY American Grill 164 145 105 Barça Tapas and Cava Bar 171 mWilliam Street Street 139 105 Sugar Dumplin 165 William WilliamWilliam 126 106 The Willow Tea Rooms 117 S tree S tree t t 144 107 The Doocot Café and Bar 115 159 108 Bar Soba 146 148 109 Tabac 128 Ar 143 110 Barolo Grill 156 Ar gy gy le le 166 111 Bier Halle St 118 St r r ee 150 136 112 Rogano ee t t 144 113 The Grill Room at the Square 174 Wate Water 164 114 Di Maggio’s 158 rloo S loo Str reet treet 125 115 Café at GOMA 114 148 116 Smoak 175 171 117 The Western Club Restaurant 171 138 118 Urban Bar & Brasserie 134 119 The Trading House 128 169 120 The Anchor Line 130 Clyd eside Expressw ay Clydeside Expressw ay 131 120 Atlantic Bar &way Brasserie 151 de Ex press de Ex press ClydesiClydesi way 132 121 sCafé Andaluz 172 ets Street Stre cros Stob Stobcros 139 122 La Vita 160 122 123 Elià 164 150 124 Barburrito 161 150 125 Jamie’s Italian 158 118 Argyle Argyle Stree Street 160 t A 136 New

Holla nd Str eet

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Hollan d Stre et

Holla

Elmba Elmb ank nk Street

India Street

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t Stree

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es R oa oad

S t. G e org

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Street Granville

Whitehall Street

Carrick Street

McAlpine Street

Cri CrimeaC Strm e

McAlpine Street

Washington Street

Piccadilly Street

Stree Street Street Piccadilly Cheapside

Street St t Cheapside Warroch Stree

Warroch Street

BalaclavaBalacla Streetva Street Washington Street

Whitehall Street

Stre

ton

et Stre ton

58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66

a Ro

31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57

Gesso Singl-end Nanakusa Nice’n’Sleazy Loon Fung Variety Bar Ristorante Teatro Baby Grand Mango Sichuan House Saramago Café Bar The Vic Café Bar Thairiffic Alla Turca Alla Italia The Tiki Bar Kitsch Inn Smile Café Central Moskito Slouch Lucky 7 Canteen The Willow Tea Rooms The Project Café Banana Leaf The Wee Curry Shop The Pipers’ Tryst Café Hula Di Maggio’s Theatreland La Bonne Auberge Thai Lemongrass Masala Twist City Centre The Butterfly and the Pig The Tearooms @The Butterfly and the Pig Two Fat Ladies in the City Where the Monkey Sleeps Babu Bombay Street Kitchen Brian Maule at Chardon d’Or Red Onion Meat Bar Fratelli Sarti Bloc+ Fratelli Sarti Malone’s Irish Bar The Howlin’ Wolf Noodle Prep Fitness Kitchen The Raven China Blue O Sole Mio Rumours Kopitiam Laboratorio Espresso Yiamas Greek Taverna Cup Tea Lounge/Gin 71 Amber Regent Poco Havana Bar and Cantina The Pot Still Opium La Boca Nic’s NYC Deli Restaurant at Blythswood Square Dakota Deluxe Bar & Grill The Honours Primal Roast King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut Gamba Mussel Inn Blue Dog Tony Macaroni Café Wander

Street Granville

MAP 6 CITY CENTRE

GLASGOW

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 14 15 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 30

ds an dl

et Street rech Stdo chne LynedoLy

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GLASGOW

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MAP 6 CITY CENTRE

La ne Ba Ash lio le y lS tre Lan e et Ba La lio ne lS tre et La ne

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er iv

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184 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

12/04/2016 14:15 ive

ive Dr

Renfi eld S treet

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West N i le Stre

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York Street

James Watt Street

Brown Street

GEORGE SQUARE

123

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109

101 102

120

St Vin St Vinc cent P ent Pla lace ce

108 107

Jama ica Str eet Ad a ms Co urt La ne

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Carrick Street

Oswald Street

McAlpine Street

119

Argyle Argyle Street Street

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EDG16-Maps.indd 185

Citize Citizen n Lan e Lane

Argyle Argyle S Street treet

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QUEEN EN STREET STATION STATIO TI

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CENTRAL C S STATION

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CrimeaCri Strme eeta Street

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60 61

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GLASGOW ROYAL CONCERT HALL

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BUS S ST IIO STATIO STATION S STATI

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Blythswood Square

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CITY CENTRE MAP 6

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EDG16-Maps.indd 186

Ro ss

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168 117 153 142 118 132 166 146 173 158 150 117 130 122 135 161 153

186 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

rland

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21 MERCHANT M AN SQUARE RE

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GEORGE SQUARE

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Union Street

le Stre et

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Union Place

Gordon Stre et

North Fre

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Citize n Lan e

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MAP 7 MERCHANT CITY & EAST END

GLASGOW

St Ma

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West Georg e Sttre et

r Taylo

Mart ha St

Hutch eson Stree t

GLASGOW

ge Str eet

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MAP 7 MERCHANT CITY & EAST END Nile S treet

Str ee t

Bath Stree

12/04/2016 14:15

St re et Din mo n

Stre eet

Ro ad s aw Po llo ks h

St re et

Ba rr la nd

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Asco og g Stre et

Da rnle yS tre et

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Kebabish Grill Tapa Coffeehouse Gusto & Relish Mulberry Street Bar Bistro The McMillan Southside The Glad Café Brooklyn Café Di Maggio’s The Butterfly and The Pig @ The Corona

M an

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

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VICTORIA CT INFIRMARY

St re et

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Di rle to n

St re et

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The List Eating & Drinking Guide 187

EDG16-Maps.indd 187

South

eR gsid Lan

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Que

La ngside Road

Fr an kf or tS tr ee t

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Victo ria Roa d

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March Street

llo ks ha w s Po

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Albert Avenue

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Stre et

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et re St

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Fotheringay Road

en Av

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Te Terre T er gles les Avenue

Cuthbe rtson Street

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Leve n Str eet

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gin

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Springkell Avenu e

1 New ark Driv e

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ll Gate

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Max well Road

B Leslie Road

d Road Nithsdale n' sR

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Beaton Road

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MAP 8 SOUTHSIDE

GLASGOW D al z

Drive

Shield s

Alber t

ell P

lac e

GLASOW Maxw ell R Road

Aytoun Road

SOUTHSIDE MAP 8

ell R oad

St John 's Road

Maxw

Eglin

Bruce Road

Mati lda Roa d

ton St reet

oad

12/04/2016 14:15

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ly R

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Teviot St reet Blackie S treet

Sandyf d Stre et Lumsor de n S treet

Sandyf Lumsor Yorkhill Street d nStSre de et treet

Yorkhill Street

Yorkh S treet ill Street

an ty re Bl

Nairn Street

Esmond Street Nairn Street

Esmond Street

Nairn Street

Esmond Street Nairn Street

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Golspie Street Golspie Street 188 The

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oad Napier R

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161 135 171 118 138 118 173

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57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65

51 The Brasserie at Òran Mór 166 166 52 Cail Bruich 53 Penny Black 139 54 Chequers Cocktail House & Grill 120 55 Great Western 137 Sandwich Co. 56 Papercup Coffee Company 139

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et re St on rd Pu et re St on rd Pu et tre nS rso de An et tre nS rso de An

Stewartville Stre et

Gardner Street

Hayburn Street Gardner Street

Hayburn Street Fortrose Street

155 152 154 136 137 147 166 158 120

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a ne

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Fortrose Street

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Cottier’s Delizique Cafezique My Home Bakery Tinto Tapas Bar The Rio Café Devils Deli For Fika Sake The Sparkle Horse Siempre Bicycle Café Meathook The Two Figs Usha’s Three Judges Dumpling Monkey Hyde TriBeCa Two Fat Ladies Balbir’s Tony Macaroni Number 16 Salt Delicatessen Little Curry House Bar Gumbo Kimchi Cult The Hill Chow Bar Soba Kember & Jones Fine Food Emporium La Vita Spuntini Brel Ketchup The Grosvenor Café The Brasserie at the Chip Ubiquitous Chip The Wee Curry Shop Ashoka Ashton Lane Masala Twist Crolla’s Gelateria Juice Garden The Hanoi Bike Shop The Bothy Di Maggio’s Curlers Rest Taco Mazama Mexican Kitchen Avenue Coffee Café Andaluz Booly Mardy’s Nic’s NYC Deli Bobar Bo’Vine Meats and Wines P

MAP 9 WEST END

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29

9B SOUTH

oad oad trerle e tigh Stree t eigh SBu

GLASGOW

t en sc re nC ur yb Ha ne t La en rn sc bu rHeay nC ne La urn yb

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Go va

9A NORTH

Lorraine Road

GLASGOW

ly R

oa d

MAP 9 WEST END

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Fron fa fa t t son son rg rg Pa Pa Str Str S St r r tre eet eet kD kD re e e et et v v riv riv ri ri D D W W e e W W Paerk ton ton est st Q Park Q e e g g st st uad Pr Pu in in adr r r r P P r r i i r nc nc an an rin rin Kelvingrove Ba Ba e's e's t t ce ce sS sS Svte St Eldon St Eldon St Park r ive i r reet reet tre tre Nort N Dr DPr eet Pa eet h Fro orth Fro et et nt nt P Pho rk ds ds ark n n Cir Cir e nix hoe nix la la cu cu R oad R oad Pa od Pa od s s ok ok 87 r r L L 86 W G W G Gr Gr an an ate Pa ate a a P a nt nt 88 e rk e rk Gat ooedlands Gat e St St Woodlands W Cir Cir re re 89 cu cu et et Ca Ca Quee Quee rn rn n' n' ar ar s s vo vo h Fro nS nS nt tre tre Pa Pa Pa Pa et et rk rk rk rk Cir Cir Dr Dr c c ive ive e e us us P P W W C C lac lac Park Q Park Q doch resecdocehst resc est e e uad uad e n n Pr Pr ran ran in in t t ce ce sS sS Street Street tre tre LynedochLynedoch Pa Pa et et Ph rk rk l Phoe l Cir Cir Woodlan Woodlan nix R oe nix R lio lio cu cu ds ds oad oad Pa Pa ne Terrace Terrace Ba Bane e La s s rrace La rracid rk rk Te Te e e L L id Gr Woods Gr Woods Ga Ga an ClaremontClaremo nt T erra T a a er Par ane ne ne te te Par ra La La n n ce La ce La ce e Terrace t e tS Buccle kC kC e Terra oodlands Gat ooedlands Gat e n ne S sid sid e W W od od t u t Wo Wo re re Pa Pa irc irc et et rk rk u u Ga Ga rde rde ce e Terrace Ca Ca odside Terra sid ns ns od Wo Wo rn rn H Hill S emont Te ClaremonC t lar ar ar Te rr treet ill Street rrac ace vo vo e nS nS tre tre Pa Pa Pa Pa e e r r r r O k k t t k k ld D g ro g ro dD Cir Cir Place Place um um ve cu cu e e WoodsideWoodside b ar b ar Pave T Pa Te sP sP rkg er rkg ton ton rr a 49 C h Cre lac lac rovrac rov s Roa Roa ce doch resectdoc Gardenstc Garden eT eTe e e d d ne Clairmon n Clairmon err err ne ne ace Place Place Place La Place La Be ace L Be Royal Terrace Royal Terrace La Belle La Belle Lan WoodsideWoodside nti an nti e nc e n eetws Street ch Strree kS Met Place Mews Crck S Cr LynedochLynedo cerse R Renfr 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t t c c e e et et e e Bath St Bath St Place LanPlace Lan Pa Pa re et re et SandyfordSandyford rkg rkg Sauchi Sa Kelvingrove rov rov ad ad ehall Place Place ne roy Lane ide ide La 47 ds ds y Street Street oo oo ro e e Ro Ro W W tz tz Pa Pa T Park Fi Fi Te Berkeley Berkeley h h r kg rkg er g g r u u rov rovrac 8 rac enst Gardens rd Ga e Ha Ha t eT e Te Clairmon Clairmon err err ne ne ne ne La La B Bath Bath ace eet Place Place Place La Place La Terrace Terrace Lane ath Lane ley StrBe Be Be ace L Str rkeley Street Berke Royal Terrace Royal Terrace La Belle La Belle Lan Berkeley Berkeley WoodsideWoodside nti nti ane et et e y Stre y Stre n nc ws ws kS Cr Crck S ad ad Renfr Renfr t Place Met Place Me aig aig tre tre Kent Ro Kent Ro ew Str ew Str Somerse Somerse m m e e eet eet t Allee Allee aet ad t Elmbank Crescent Elmbank Crescent Place Place et La Belle La Belle die Newton Newton nt Road nt Road Stre gh Stre ddie ugh u Ke Ke Terrace Te Sa Ter Royal Terrace RoyalLa Lane ne inha inha Sa Sauch Sa rr. uc r. Kelv De Kelv De uch ce ce iehall uchiehall Pla Ln hie Ln 50 ieh rb rb mersetSo merset Pla S S So . . tr tr h e e yT yT et et all a ce ce ad ad Terrace Terrace err err ll St Clifton Pla Clifton Pla St St St 5 Kent Ro Kent Ro Newton Newton re re ac a Viscen Vsc et et et t Street e enalt Cre inoy Ar Arce nc t t Streor Royal Cre R ce ce ord Place gy gy D se Dorse 9 20 en ne ace Lane nford Pla 52 nf le le 3 La n Sa Sa e ac 46 rr et tC tC St St Terr ton Te 7 reet re re ver Stre Newton NewDo Dover St re re et et sc sc Bath S Ba Place Lane Place Lane en en tre et th Stre et SandyfordSandyford 25 26 t t Sauch S ch 32 t t iehalau hall La 27 6 2 ree ree Lane Lane l Lanie reet reet ne Fitzroy Fitzroy e a St a St rkeley St rkeley St v v Be Be r r e e 5 MITCHELL 53 30 Min Min H H 22 ou ou LIBRARY Vincent Street St VincentStStreet Wayerva Way va 45 l l er d d ne ce Lane sw sw M in M in Bath Bath Bath Bath 28 29 ce yLa eet eet rra rra 23 Str Str Te Te L L La o o ley ley y race race S S ane treet er rt Berkele Elliot rth Berkele Berke Berke Elli e et Taenre St Vin trSt St VincentStTVincent reet y Street S tr eet ot S tr eet cent StVincent St 24 Lane h Lane 36 y St re et re et ad ad e Terrac e St Vincent St Vincent Terrac 37 Kent Ro Kent Ro 33 Elmbank Elmbank Crescent Crescent 34 ad ad Ro Ro Cly Cly Kent Kent 54 Cly desid Cly desid Bath B Lane ath Lan d es e E d es e E 39 40 William Street William Street ide xpr ide xpr William William 35 Exp eSsswExp essw RoadKent Road St nt S tree S tree Ke 38 t rSets V ay res ay Houldsw Houldsw StoV t t osbwci orth orth s Stree Stree et et bicnr t t w re re narcoy t St orset St ay coess s Dorse D nt Roa enst Roa reet reet Cr d Cr d Dover St Dover St 4 es es Wes42 est Gree t GreeW ce ce Ar Ar nhill Pl nhill Pl gy gy nt nt ace ace le le St St 43 t t re re ree ree t t et et S S 44 va va r r e e Min Min W Wate H H ou ou rloo S aterloo S Vincent Street St VincentStStreet Way erva Way va l l er treet treet d d sw sw M in M in or or errace Terrace Elliot Elliot TVincent th th St Vin St Vin Vincent St St S S tr tr cent S ce eet eet Lane Lane tre et nt Stre et e Terrac e St Vincent Terrac St Vincent

Argyle StrArgyle Argyl Str ylee eet Arg t re e Stre e St et et 12 04 2016 14 15

Wate

W rloo S aterloo S tree tree

INDEX

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Index

A Room in Leith (5A: C1, 5) A Room in the West End (4: B1, 22) The Abbotsford (1B: A6, 54) Absolute Thai (3A: C1, 17) The Academy Restaurant (9B: A1, off) Acanthus (2B: D3, 33) Ad Lib (Hope St) (6: D4, 84) Ad Lib (Ingram St) (7: D2, 22) The Admiral (6: C4, 81) Affogato (4: B1, 9) Agoon Pani (5A: C2, 22) Aizle (3C: E2, 15) Akva (4: C3, 53) Al Dente (5B: C4, 43) All That is Coffee (7: B3, 40) Alla Italia (6: C2, 14) Alla Turca (6: C2, 14) Alston Bar & Beef (6: E5, 92) Amarone (Edin) (1B: A6, 55) Amarone (Glas) (6: F4, 68) Amber Restaurant (2A: B2, 34) Amber Regent (6: E3, 51) An Clachan (9B: E1, 47) The Anchor Line (6: F4, 120) The Ancrum Cross Keys Andrew Usher & Co (2A: D5, 71) Anfora (5A: C2, 24) Angels with Bagpipes (2A: C2, 16) Anteaques (3C: D1, 11) The Apartment Bistro (3A: B2, 25) Apiary Restaurant (3C: D3, 23) The Apprentice (5A: A2, off) Archerfield Walled Garden Archipelago Bakery (1A: D3, 97) Arisaig (7: C2, 21) Art Lover’s Café (8: B1, off) Artisan Roast (Broughton St) (1B: C4, 27) Artisan Roast (Bruntsfield Pl) (3A: A4, 34) Artisan Roast (Gibson St) (9A: F3, 73) Artisan Roast (Raeburn Pl) (1A: A1, 3) Ashoka Ashton Lane (9A: C2, 36) Ashoka Bearsden (9A: A1, off) Ashoka Southside (8: A5, off) Ashoka West End (9B: C1, 13) Asiama (9A: H4, 88) Asian Gourmet (9A: H4, 87) The Atelier (4: B2, 75) Athena Greek Taverna (9B: F2, 46) The Atholl at The Howard (1B: A3, 14) Atlantic Bar & Brasserie (6: F4, 120) August 21 (Causewayside) (3C: D3, 24) August 21 (Comiston) (3B: A4, off) The Auld Hoose (3C: E1, 8) Avenue Coffee (Byres Rd) (9A: C1, 45) Avenue Coffee (Gt Western Rd) (9A: G2, 83) B&D’s Kitchen (4: A4, off) Babu Bombay Street Kitchen (6: C3, 33) Baby Grand (6: A2, 8) Badger and Co (1A: B5, 47) The Baked Potato Shop (2A: D2, 13) Bakery Andante bakery47 (8: D1, off) Balbir’s (9A: B3, 19) The Balcony Café (8: A1, off) The Balmoral Bar (2A: D1, 2) Banana Leaf (Cambridge St) (6: D1, 22) Banana Leaf (Old Dumbarton Rd) (9B: B1, 8) Bar 50 (2B: A3, 9) Bar G&V (2A: C3, 22) Bar Gandolfi (7: C2, 25) Bar Gumbo (9A: B3, 24) Bar 91 (7: C2, 18) Bar Soba (Hanover St) (1A: D4, 87) Bar Soba (Albion St) (7: C2, 21) Bar Soba (Byres Rd) (9A: C2, 28) Bar Soba (Mitchell Ln) (6: E5, 108) Bar Varia (9B: A1, off) Bar à Vin (4: B1, 11) La Barantine (Bruntsfield) (3A: A4, 36) La Barantine Victoria (2A: B3, 36) Barburrito (Lothian Rd) (4: C2, 42) Barburrito (Shandwick Pl) (4: B1, 17) Barburrito (Gordon St) (6: E5, 99) Barburrito (Hope St) (6: D4, 85)

89 89 19 104 114 89 173 173 117 48 74 90 19 78 114 156 162 173 78 156 90 144 135 130 14 20 37 90 59 37 37 90 14 59 166 114 59 59 135 59 152 152 152 152 144 144 90 162 90 151 48 48 20 135

135 63 152 130 20 59 15 142 152 114 20 146 152 20 20 117 162 117 66 146 146 146 114 20 48 48 83 83 161 161

The name of each establishment is followed by its map reference (map number, grid, point number) in brackets and then by the page number of the review Barburrito (Queen St) (6: F4, 124) Barça Tapas and Cava Bar (6: F5, 105) Barnacles & Bones (1B: C5, 39) Barolo Grill (6: E5, 110) The Basement Bar and Restaurant (1B: C5, 32) Battlefield Rest (8: D6, 24) Bavarian Brauhaus (6: D4, 76) The Beach House (5B: C5, off) Beer & Skittles (1B: C5, 38) The Beer Kitchen by Innis & Gunn (4: C2, 37) Beirut (2A: D5, 77) Bell & Felix (8: A5, off) Bella Vita (9B: A1, off) The Belle (9A: E1, 57) Bell’s Diner (1A: B2, 27) Belted (1A: C4, 75) The Ben Nevis (9B: D2, 24) Bia Bistrot (3B: A1, 1) Bibi’s Cantina (9A: A3, off) Bier Halle (6: E5, 111) Bijou (5B: C1, off) Biscuit (8: A5, 20) Bisque Bar & Brasserie (3A: B3, 28) Le Bistro Beaumartin (N/A) Bistro Provence (5A: B1, 2) Black Dove (8: A5, 22) The Black Fox (5B: A4, 20) Black Medicine Coffee Co (Barclay Ter) (3A: B2, 26) Black Medicine Coffee Co (Nicolson St) (2A: D4, 80) The Black Poppy (8: D5, off) Black Sparrow (9B: G2, 50) The Blackbird (3A: B2, 21) Blackwood’s Bar & Grill (1A: B2, 29) Bloc+ (6: D3, 38) Blonde (3C: E2, 14) The Blue Bear (1B: A1, 7) The Blue Chair (7: D2, 27) Blue Dog (6: E3, 64) The Blue Blazer (4: D2, 31) The Blue Parrot Cantina (1A: B2, 22) The Bluebird Café (1B: A2, 9) Bo’Vine Meats and Wines (9A: D1, 50) Boardwalk Beach Club (4: A1, off) Bobar (9A: D1, 49) La Boca (6: D3, 55) Boda Bar (5B: A2, 7) Bodega (5B: A5, 25) La Bodega Tapas Bar (9A: A3, off) Bon Papillon (1A: C3, 35a) The Bon Vivant Stockbridge (1A: A1, 11) The Bon Vivant (Thistle St) (1A: D4, 81) La Bonne Auberge (6: F2, 27) Bonsai Bar Bistro (2B: B5, 19) Booly Mardy’s (9A: D1, 47) The Boozy Cow (1A: C5, 63) Born in the Borders Boteco do Brasil (Edin) (2A: C4, 53) Boteco do Brasil (Glas) (7: C3, 35) The Bothy (9A: C2, 41) Boudoir Wine Bar (7: C2, 21) The Bow Bar (2A: B3, 27) Bramble (1A: D4, 95) Brandon’s of Canonmills (1B: B2, 10) The Brass Monkey (Edin) (2B: A4, 15) The Brass Monkey (Glas) (9B: E3, 41) Brasserie Les Amis (4: C2, 48) The Brasserie at Òran Mór (9A: D1, 51) The Brasserie at the Chip (9A: C2, 34) La Brava (8: A5, off) Bread Meats Bread (Edin) (4: C2, 40) Bread Meats Bread (Glas) (6: E4, 71) Bread Street Brasserie (4: D2, 43) Breadshare Bakery (Jane St) (5B: A1, 3) Breadshare Bakery (Portobello) (5B: C5, off) Brel (9A: C2, 31) Brew Box Coffee Company (7: B2, 9) Brew Lab (S College St) (2A: D4, 81) Brew Lab West End (4: B1, 13) BrewDog Glasgow (9B: C1, 1) BrewDog Edinburgh (2A: D3, 86) BRGR (9A: E1, 59)

161 171 59 156 83 156 117 48 20 20 84 135 156 117 100 100 117 37 161 118 37 135 38 151 70 130 22 48 48 135 118 22 90 118 38 49 135 118 22 83 49 173 49 118 171 22 83 171 16 22 22 151 66 118 100 14 84 162 166 118 23 23 23 23 118 70 166 130 157 100 173 38 59 49 118 142 49 59 118 23 173

Brian Maule at Chardon d’Or (6: C3, 34) Britannia Spice (5A: A2, 1) Brooklyn Café (8: A4, 16) Broughton Delicatessen (1B: C4, 23) La Bruschetta (4: A3, 65) Brutti Compadres (7: A2, 4) Brutti Ma Buoni (7: B2, 13) Buddy’s Bar Diner Grill (8: C3, 7) Buffalo (2A: D5, 69) The Bungo Bar & Kitchen (8: C2, 6) Burger (Fountainbridge) (4: C3, 51) Burger (Shandwick Pl) (4: B1, 24) Burger Meats Bun (1B: C5, 29) Burr & Co (1B: A6, 57) The Burrell Café (8: A4, off) The Butchershop Bar & Grill (9B: C1, 14) The Butterfly and the Pig (6: D2, 30) The Butterfly and the Pig @ the Corona (8: A4, 18) Byron (2B: A2, 5) C-Shack (5A: A2, off) Café Andaluz (Edin) (1A: C5, 61) Café Andaluz (Cresswell Ln) (9A: D1, 46) Café Andaluz (St Vincent Pl) (6: F4, 121) Café Cassis (3C: D3, 26) Café D’Jaconelli (9A: H1, off) Café Domenico (5A: C2, 7) Café Gandolfi (7: C2, 25) Cafe Hub (2A: B2, 32) Café Hula (6: E1, 25) Café India (7: C3, 33) Café Mal (5A: C1, 9) Café Marlayne (Antigua St) (1B: D5, 42) Café Marlayne (Thistle St) (1A: C4, 72) Café Modern One (4: A2, off) Café Modern Two (4: A2, off) Café Nom de Plume (1B: C4, 18) Café 1505 @ Surgeonshall (2B: A5, 17) Café Portrait (1B: A5, 63) Café Renroc (5B: A5, 30) Café Royal Circle Bar (1B: B6, 50) Café Source (7: C4, 42) Café Source Too (9A: A1, off) Café St Honoré (1A: C4, 78) Café Strange Brew (8: A4, 19) Café Tartine (5A: C1, 4) Café Voltaire (2A: D3, 88) Café Wander (6: E3, 66) Café at GOMA (6: F5, 115) Café at the Palace (2B: E2, 36) Cafezique (9A: B2, 3) Caffè Parma (9A: A1, off) The Caffeine Drip (4: B1, 2) Cail Bruich (9A: D1, 52) Cailin’s Sushi (9B: D2, 25) Cairngorm Coffee (Frederick St) (1A: C4, 70) Cairngorm Coffee (Melville Pl) (4: B1, 4) The Calabash Restaurant (6: E5, 100) The Caley Sample Room (4: B4, off) Calistoga (1A: C5, 58) The Cambridge Bar (1A: B4, 42) Candy Kitchen & Bar (1A: B5, 44) Cannonball Restaurant & Bar (2A: B2, 35) The Canons’ Gait Craft Beer Bar & Kitchen (2B: B3, 29) Carters Tap (4: B2, 73) Casa Angelina (1B: C4, 16) Castello Coffee Co (1A: B5, 53) Castle Terrace (4: D1, 28) CAU Glasgow (7: A1, 1) CC Blooms (1B: D5, 44) Celino’s (7: D1, off) Central Sushi (6: E4, 80) La Cerise (5A: B3, off) Le Chalet Beaumartin (9A: E1, 58) Chaophraya Edinburgh (1A: B5, 106) Chaophraya Glasgow (6: F3, 67) Charcoals (6: E4, 72) Charcoals Café (7: C3, 36) Charwood (3B: A4, off) Checkpoint (2A: C4, 54) Chequers Cocktail House & Grill (9A: E1, 54)

151 74 135 49 78 119 119 173 100 130 100 100 100 49 114 173 119 119 101 69 99 171 172 38 136 78 130 49 136 152 38 70 72 16 16 49 16 16 50 23 166 166 90 136 72 23 136 114 16 130 157 50 166 146 59 59 164 23 84 24 24 92 24 24 60 60 92 162 24 157 147 50 151 104 147 152 153 38 38 120

Cherry and Heather Fine Foods (8: C1, off) Chez Roux Chez Jules (1A: D4, 93) China Red (Corn Exchange) (3A: A1, off) China Red (Grindlay St) (4: C1, 35) China Blue (6: E3, 45) China Town (4: B2, 77) Chinaski’s (9B: G2, 51) The Chocolate Tree (3A: B3, 32) Chop Chop (Edin) (4: B2, 70) Chop Chop (Glas) (6: E4, 102) Chow (9A: C2, 27) Circus (2B: B3, 25) Citation (7: B2, 11) City Art Centre Café (2A: D2, 10) The City Café (2A: D3, 89) City Merchant (7: C2, 17) Civerinos (2A: D3, 91) Clerk’s Bar (3C: D2, 19) Clockwork Beer Co (8: D6, off) The Cloisters (3A: C1, 6) Clouds & Soil (1B: C5, 35) Cobbs Marchmont (3C: A2, 33) Coffee Angel (Brandon Ter) (1B: A2, 8) Coffee Angel (Nicolson St) (2A: D5, 72) Coffee, Chocolate and Tea (9B: E3, 43) Coia’s Café (7: D1, off) Colonnades (2A: C3, 18) The Compass Bar (5A: D2, 28) Connect Café (1A: A2, off) Contini Ristorante (1A: B5, 57) Copper Blossom (1A: B5, 46) The Corinthian Club (7: B2, 6) Coro The Chocolate Café (Canonmills) (1B: A1, 2) Coro The Chocolate Café (Frederick St) (1A: C5, 64) Côte Brasserie (6: E4, 70) Cottier’s Bar and Restaurant (9A: B2, 1) Cottonrake (9A: F2, 62) Crabshakk (9B: D2, 29) The Crafty Pig (9A: F1, 60) Craigies Farm Shop Cranachan (6: F5, 105) Cranachan and Crowdie Crêpe à Croissant (9B: G1, 49) Crolla’s Gelateria (9A: C2, 38) Cubatas (9B: F2, 44) Cucina (2A: C3, 22) Cucina LC (4: A3, 61) Cuckoo’s Bakery (Dundas St) (1A: D1, 32) Cuckoo’s Bakery (Bruntsfield Pl) (3A: B3, 31) Cult Espresso (3C: D2, 13) The Cumberland Bar (1B: A4, 15) Cup Tea Garden (7: A2, 5) Cup Tea Lounge (6: E3, 50) Cup Tea Room (9A: C1) Curlers Rest (9A: C1, 43) Dakhin (7: C2, 19) Dakota Deluxe Grill (6: B3, 58) Dandelion Café (8: A5, off) Darcy’s (6: F5, 105) David Bann (2B: B3, 22) Deadly Donuts (3C: B2, 37) Delizique (9A: B2, 2) The Den at Dining In with Mother India (9B: C1, 6) Desi Pakwan (5B: A1, 2) The Devil’s Advocate (2A: C2, 15) Devils Deli (9A: A3, 7) The Dhabba (7: C2, 29) Di Giorgio (1B: A1, 6) Di Maggio’s (Pollockshaws Rd) (8: A4, 17) Di Maggio’s (Royal Exchange Sq) (6: F5, 114) Di Maggio’s (Ruthven Ln) (9A: C1, 42) Di Maggio’s Theatreland (6: F2, 26) Le Di-Vin Wine Bar (4: B1, 6) Dine with Stuart Muir (4: C1, 26) Diner 7 (5A: C1, 8) The Dining Room (1A: D4, 84) Distill (9B: D2, 30) Divino Enoteca (2A: C3, 47) DogHouse Merchant City (7: B2, 12)

142 14 72 63 63 144 63 120 60 64 144 144 84 130 16 24 168 78 24 120 24 39 50 50 50 142 157 18 24 50 78 25 131 52 52 151 131 142 149 120 14 136 15 142 136 172 78 52 52 60 52 25 136 136 136 120 153 131 136 120 39 60 136 153 14 25 142 153 52 158 158 158 158 25 92 101 92 120 79 120

190 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

EDG16-Index PM.indd 190

12/04/2016 13:48

INDEX

In association with

The Dogs (1A: D4, 88) The Dome Grill Room (1B: A6, 56) The Doocot Café and Bar (6: E5, 107) The Doublet (9A: F2, 78) Dough (1A: B5, 51) Dovecot Café by Leo’s (2B: A4, 13) Downstairs at Stravaigin (9A: F3, 70) Dragonfly (2A: A3, 40) The Drake (9B: F1, 48) The Drill Hall Café (5B: B3, 13) Ducks at Kilspindie House Dumpling Monkey (9A: B3, 15) Dusit (1A: D4, 82) Earthy Canonmills (1B: A1, 5) Earthy Market Café (3C: D5, 29) Earthy Market Stores Eat Café (8: A5, 23) Eat Deli (8: A5, off) Ecco Vino (2A: D2, 5) Eddie’s Seafood Market Edinburgh Food Studio (3C: E4, off) Edinburgh Larder at Whitmuir Edinburgh Larder Bistro (4: B1, 12) Edinburgh Larder Café (2B: A3, 7) The Edwardian Kitchen Restaurant (8: A4, off) EH15 (5B: C5, off) El Cartel Casera Mexicana (1A: C4, 79) El Gusto (9A: F3, 72) El Quijote (3A: C1, 5) Element (1A: C5, 60) Elià (6: F4, 123) Embo (5B: A5, 26) Empires (2B: B3, 24) L’Escargot Blanc (4: B1, 11) L’Escargot Bleu (1B: C4, 20) The Espy (5B: C5, off) Eteaket (1A: C4, 71) Eusebi Deli (9A: F3, 76) Falko Konditormeister (3A: A4, 39) Fanny Trollope’s (9B: D2, 36) La Favorita Delivered (9A: F3, 74) La Favorita (5B: A3, 15) Festival Theatre Café (2A: D4, 78a) Field (2A: D5, 70) Field Grill House (1A: B1, 10) 56 North (3C: D1, 1) 52 Canoes (4: A1, 1) Filament Coffee (3C: D1, 10) Filmhouse Café Bar (4: C2, 39) The Finnieston (9B: D2, 34) Firebird (9B: C1, 10) First Coast (4: A4, 57) The Fish People Café (8: D1, off) Fishers in the City (1A: D4, 80) Fishers in Leith (5A: C1, 10) For Fika Sake (9A: A3, 8) The Forest Café (3A: C1, 1) Forth Floor Brasserie (1B: B5, 58) Forth Floor Restaurant (1B: B5, 58) Fortitude Coffee (1B: B5, 62) The Fountain (4: B4, 54) Fratelli Sarti (Bath St) (6: D3, 37) Fratelli Sarti (Renfield ST) (6: E4, 71) Fratelli Sarti (Wellington St) (6: D3, 39) Frontier Restaurant (3A: B2, 22) Frosoulla’s (8: D6, 26) Galvin Brasserie de Luxe (4: B1, 21) Gamba (6: D3, 62) Gambrino (9A: G2, 81) Gandolfi Fish (7: C2, 24) The Gannet (9B: D2, 23) The Gardener’s Cottage (5B: A6, 35) La Garrigue (2B: B2, 1) George Bower Butchers Gesso (6: A1, 1) Ghillie Dhu (4: B1, 18) The Glad Café (8: B4, 15) Glass & Thompson (1A: D3, 38) Golden Dragon Restaurant (1A: B5, 54) Goya23 (1A: B2, 28) The Grain Store (2A: B3, 25) The Grassmarket Café (2A: B3, 44) Grays Kitchen (9A : A1, off) The Great Western Sandwich Co. (9A: E1, 55) Green Chilli Café (9B: C2, 12) Greenmantle (3C: D1, 4) The Grill on the Corner (6: D4, 83) The Grill Room at the Square (6: F5, 113) The Grosvenor Café (9A: C2, 33) The Grumpy Goat (9B: B1, 7)

39 39 115 121 60 18 168 25 121 18 14 144 104 39 52 15 131 136 25 15 92 14 39 53 115 94 83 172 99 26 164 60 85 72 72 26 53 158 53 131 158 79 18 94 101 26 26 60 18 149 131 40 150 69 69 137 53 40 94 60 26 158 158 158 85 164 40 150 158 150 168 94 72 15 137 26 137 53 64 99 94 54 142 137 154 26 173 174 121 121

Guild of Foresters (5B: C5, off) The Guildford Arms (1B: B6, 49) Gusto & Relish (8: C3, 12) Guy’s Restaurant & Bar (7: C3, 31) Hadrian’s Brasserie (2A: D1, 2) Hakataya (1A: B5, 52) Hamilton’s Bar and Kitchen (1A: B2, 18) Hanam’s (2A: B3, 30) The Hanging Bat (4: C2, 44) The Hanoi Bike Shop (9A: C2, 40) Harajuku Kitchen (3A: B2, 23) Harry’s Bar & Grill (4: B1, 5) The Haven (5A: A2, off) Hay Sushi (4: B3, 64) Heads & Tales (4: B1, 19) Hellers Kitchen (3C: D3, 27) Hemma (2B: D3, 31) Henderson’s Holyrood (2B: C3, 30) Hendersons Shop & Deli (1A: D4, 86) Hendersons Salad Table (1A: D4, 86) Hendersons Vegan (1A: D4, 86) Henri of Edinburgh (1A: A1, 4) Henricks Bar & Bistro (3A: B2, 24) Herald Café Bar (9B: G2, 53) Herringbone The Hidden Lane Tearoom (9B: D2, 35) The Hill (9A: C2, 26) Ho Wong (6: C6, 89) The Holyrood 9A (2B: B3, 21) The Honours (Edin) (1A: B4, 40) The Honours (Glas) (6: B3, 59) Hoot The Redeemer (1A: D5, 65) Hotel du Vin Bistro (Edin) (2A: C4, 56) Hotel du Vin Bistro (Glas) (9A: A1, off) Howies (Victoria Street) (2A: C3, 24) Howies at Waterloo (1B: C6, 47) The Howlin’ Wolf (6: D3, 41) The Hug & Pint (9A: H3, 85) Hula Juice Bar and Gallery (2A: B3, 37) Hutchesons Bar & Brasserie (7: B2, 8) The Huxley (4: B1, 20) Hyde (9A: B4, 16) The Hyndland Café (9A: A1, off) The Hyndland Fox (9A: A1, off) Ian Brown Food and Drink (8: A5, off) Ichiban (3C: D3, 20) Illegal Jack’s (3C: D1, 3) Imperial Palace (4: A4, off) Indaba (3A: B1, 8) Indigo Yard (4: B1, 8) Inn Deep (9A: F2, 67) Iris (1A: D4, 83) Italian On The Mound (2A: C2, 19) The Italian Caffè (7: C2, 23) Itchycoo Bar & Kitchen (2B: A3, 6) Jacob Artisan Bakery (Haymarket) (4: A3, 62) Jacob Artisan Bakery (Southbridge) (2A: D3, 84) Jambo Grill and Restaurant (3A: A2, off) Jamie’s Italian (Edin) (1A: D5, 69) Jamie’s Italian (Glas) (6: G4, 125) Jeelie Piece (3A: C1, 15) Jeremiah’s Taproom (5B: A6, 34) The Joker and the Thief (5B: A5, 24) The Jolly Botanist (4: B2, 69) Joseph Pearce’s (5B: A5, 32) Juice Garden (Byres Rd) (9A: C2, 39) Juice Garden (Renfield St) (6: E4, 78) Juniper (1B: B6, 52) Ka Ka Lok (9A: H4, 89) Kama Sutra (4: C2, 41) Kampong Ah Lee Malaysian Delight (3C: D1, 9) Kampong Ali Kopitiam (2A: D2, 12) Kampung Ali Malaysian Delight (4: C3, 50) Kanpai (4: D1, 32) Karen’s Unicorn (1B: B4, 67) Kebab Mahal (2A: D5, 78) Kebabish Grill (8: D2, 10) Kelvingrove Café (9B: D2, 22) KG Café (9B: C1, 2) Kember & Jones (9A: C2, 29) Ketchup (Ashton Ln) (9A: C2, 32) Ketchup (Pollockshaws Rd) (8: A4, 21) Khublai Khan Mongolian Barbecue Restaurant (Edin) (5A: D1, 14) Khublai Khan Mongolian Barbecue Restaurant (Glas) (7: C3, 30) Khushi’s (1B: D5, 41) The Kilderkin (2B: D2, 35) Kilted Lobster (1A: C2, 21)

27 27 137 132 40 66 27 85 27 147 66 27 54 66 27 40 28 54 61 94 41 54 28 115 14 115 121 145 28 41 132 28 41 169 95 95 122 122 54 132 28 122 137 132 169 14 83 64 85 28 122 41 61 158 41 54 54 85 79 158 54 28 28 28 28 137 137 29 145 74 66 66 67 67 64 74 154 122 115 137 174 174 85 164 74 29 69

Kimchi Cult (9A: B3, 25) Kim’s Mini Meals (3C: D1, 2) King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut (6: B3, 61) The King’s Wark (5A: C1, 16) The Kitchin (5A: C1, 3) Kitsch Inn (6: C2, 15) Knights Kitchen (3C: D1, 5) Koh-i-Noor (9B: G2, 52) KoolBa (7: C2, 16) Krua Khun Mae (2A: D2, 6) Kweilin (1A: D3, 97) Kwok Brasserie (3C: C5, 30) Kyloe Restaurant & Grill (4: B1, 20) La Locanda (2A: D2, 8) La Tea Doh (8: B2, 2) Laboratorio Espresso (6: E3, 48) Laila’s Bistro (2A: D2, 9) La Lanterna (6: D5, 90) Las Iguanas (6: E4, 96) The Last Word Saloon (1A: B2, 24) Lebowskis (Edin) (4: C2, 46) Lebowskis (Glas) (9B: E2, 40) The Left Bank (9A: E3, 71) The Leith Beer Co. (5A: C2, 18) Leith Chop House (5A: D2, 27) Leith Depot (5B: A1, 5) Leo & Ted (3A: C2, 20) Leo’s Beanery (1A: C3, 34) Liggy’s Cake Company (1A: B2, 15) The Lioness of Leith (5B: B1, 1) The Little Café (9B: C1, 4) Little Curry House (9A: B3, 23) Locanda de Gusti (4: A4, 58) Loon Fung (Edin) (1B: A1, 3) Loon Fung (Glas) (6: A2, 5) Los Argentinos (3C: D3, 21) Los Cardos (5B: A3, 11) Loudon’s Café & Bakery (4: C3, 52) Lovecrumbs (4: D2, 30) Lowdown Coffee (1A: D5, 68) Lucky 7 Canteen (6: C2, 19) The Lucky Liquor Co (1A: C4, 77) LUV Café (9B: A1, off) Lychee Oriental (6: E5, 101) McCune Smith Café (7: D1, off) MacGregors Pie & Ale Howff (7: C2, 26) Machina Espresso (3A: C1, 11) The Mad Platter (9A: G2, 82) Mademoiselle Macaron (4: C1, 33) Maggie May’s (7: C3, 34) The Magnum (1B: B4, 64) Maialino (4: B2, 78) Maison Bleue Le Bistrot (3B: A4, 6) Maison de Moggy (2A: A3, 39) Maison Bleue (2A: B3, 29) Makar’s Gourmet Mash Bar (2A: C2, 21) Maki & Ramen (2B: A5, 18) Malaga Tapas (8: D1, off) Mallow Valley (4: B2, 66) Malone’s Irish Bar (Edin) (2A: C4, 60) Malone’s Irish Bar (Glas) (6: D2, 40) Malvarosa (5B: C5, off) Mango (6: B2, 9) The Manna House (5B: C5, 39) Le Marché Français (4: B2, 67) Marco Pierre White Steakhouse Bar & Grill (6: C4, 82) Mariachi (2A: B3, 26) Mark’s Deli (8: A5, off) Martha’s (6: D4, 75) Mary’s Milk Bar (2A: A3, 41) Masala Twist (9A: C2, 37) Masala Twist City Centre (6: E2, 29) The Mash Tun (5B: C4, 42) Maxi’s (1A: A1, 7) McKirdy’s Steakhouse (4: B2, 76) The McMillan Southside (8: B3, 14) Meadow Road (9A: A3, off) Meat Bar (6: D3, 36) Meathook (9A: B3, 11) IJ Mellis Cheesemonger Meltmongers (3A: B3, 29) The Mercat Bar & Restaurant (4: B2, 68) Metropolitan (7: C2, 21) Mezbaan South Indian Restaurant (3A: C1, 4) Mia (4: A4, 59) Michael Neave Kitchen & Whisky Bar (2A: D3, 90) Michaelangelo’s (8: A5, off) Milk at Collective (1B: D6, 46) Milk at Edinburgh Sculpture Workshop (1B: D1, off)

147 67 122 29 95 147 85 154 154 104 64 65 101 79 142 143 86 159 164 29 29 122 132 29 101 29 54 54 61 29 138 154 79 65 145 86 83 55 55 61 122 29 138 145 138 122 61 138 61 123 95 61 73 61 73 30 67 172 55 30 123 99 164 61 73 174 83 138 138 62 154 154 30 55 102 174 138 123 174 15 62 30 132 74 79 96 159 18 18

Milk at The Fruitmarket Gallery (2A: D2, 3) 19 Milk (4: B2, 72) 55 The Milkman (2A: C2, 4) 62 Miller & Carter (Glas) (6: F4, 95) 174 Miller & Carter (Edin) (1A: A1, off) 102 Mimi’s Bakehouse (Shore) (5A: C2, 19) 55 Mimi’s Bakehouse (Corstorphine) (4: A3, off) 55 Mimi’s Picnic Parlour (2B: B3, 26) 62 Mint Café (4: C2, 49) 55 Mintleaf (5A: D1, 13) 74 Miro’s Cantina Mexicana (1A: B5, 49) 83 Mono (7: B4, 41) 125 Monteiths (2B: A2, 3) 42 Montpeliers of Bruntsfield (3A: A4, 35) 42 Moon & Hare (3A: A4, 37) 55 Mora Bar & Kitchen (9B: D2, 17) 159 Moskito (6: C2, 17) 125 The Mosque Kitchen (2A: D5, 74) 74 Mother India (9B: D2, 32) 154 Mother India’s Café (Edin) (2A: D4, 82) 74 154 Mother India’s Café (Glas) (9B: C1, 5) 138 Moyra Jane’s (8: B2, 4) Mulberry Street Bar Bistro (8: C3, 13) 125 Mums Great Comfort Food (2A: C4, 58) 42 Munro’s (9A: H3, 84) 125 Museum Brasserie (2A: C4, 51) 19 The Mussel and Steak Bar (2A: B3, 43) 69 Mussel Inn (Edin) (1A: C5, 62) 70 Mussel Inn (Glas) (6: D4, 63) 150 My Home Bakery (9A: A3, 4) 143 My Big Fat Greek Kitchen (3A: C1, 3) 86 Namaste Kathmandu (2A: C4, 57) 75 Nanakusa (6: A2, 3) 148 Nanyang Malaysian Cuisine (2A: B5, 64) 68 Navadhanya (4: A3, 60) 75 Nawroz (2A: D5, 76) 86 New Chapter (1B: A2, 13) 96 New Gandhi (8: D2, off) 155 New Town Deli (Broughton St) (1B: C4, 22) 62 New Town Deli (Henderson Row) (1A: D1, 31) 55 The New York Steam Packet (1A: D5, 67) 102 Nic’s NYC Deli (Byres Rd) (9A: D1, 48) 138 Nic’s NYC Deli (Hope St) (6: D3, 56) 138 Nic’s NYC Deli (St Enoch Sq) (6: E6, 103) 138 Nice ‘n’ Sleazy (6: A2, 4) 125 99 Hanover Street (1A: D4, 92) 30 Nippon Kitchen (6: E4, 69) 148 No 8 Lister Square (2A: B5, 63) 30 Nobles (5A: D2, 15) 30 56 Noir (4: B2, 71) 79 Nonna’s Kitchen (3B: A2, 4) Noodle (6: D3, 42) 145 Noodle N Ice (2B: A3, 10) 104 Norn (5A: C3, 26) 96 North Star (9A: D1, off) 138 North Bridge Brasserie (2A: D2, 11) 42 Novapizza Vegetarian Kitchen (1A: C3, 33) 81 Number One (2A: D1, 2) 96 No 1 Sushi Bar (3A: B1, 7) 68 Number 10 Hotel (8: D4, off) 169 No 11 Brasserie (5B: A5, 31) 43 No. 33 (1A: B1, 12) 56 Number 16 (9A: B3, 21) 169 Nur (6: D7, off) 164 Nutan’s (3A: B1, 9) 75 NY American Grill (6: F5, 105) 164 O Sole Mio (6: E3, 46) 159 The Observatory (1B: D5, 44) 43 Obu Pan Asian (6: F5, 105) 148 Offshore (9A: F3, 75) 139 Oink (Canongate) (2B: D2, 34) 62 Oink (Victoria St) (2A: B3, 28) 62 Old Chain Pier (5A: A2, off) 31 Old Salty’s (Argyle St) (9B: D2, 28) 150 Old Salty’s (Byres Rd) (9A: D1) 150 Olive Branch Bistro (1B: C4, 21) 43 Ollie’s (8: B2, 3) 133 Once Upon a Tart (7: B3, 38) 139 Ondine (2A: C3, 23) 70 181 Delicatessen (3A: A4, 38) 62 111 by Nico (9A: A1, off) 133 One Square (4: C2, 38) 43 1051 GWR (9A: A1, off) 175 Ong Gie (3A: C1, 12) 68 Opium (6: D3, 54) 148 31 The Orchard (1B: A1, 1) Origano (5B: A3, 6) 81 The List Eating & Drinking Guide 191

EDG16-Index PM.indd 191

12/04/2016 13:48

INDEX

Origano Takeaway & Delivery (5B: A3, 10) Ostara (5A: B2, 29) Osteria Del Tempo Perso (Edin) (3A: A4, 40) Osteria del Tempo Perso (Glas) (7: B1, 7) The Other Place (1B: B2, 11) The Outsider (2A: C3, 45) The Ox (1B: C4, 17) Ox and Finch (9B: D2, 19) OX184 (2A: D3, 87) The Pacific (9A: A3, off) Paesano Pizza (7: A2, 2) Palm Court (2A: D1, 2) Pancho Villa’s (Edin) (2B: B3, 28) Pancho Villa’s (Glas) (7: C2, 28) Panda & Sons (1A: B4, 41) Panevino (9B: D2, 38) The Pantry (1A: B2, 30) Papavero (1A: C3, 35) Papercup Coffee Company (9A: E1, 56) Paradise Palms (2A: C4, 52) La Parmigiana (9A: F2, 66) Passorn (3A: C1, 10) Passorn Brasserie (1A: D4, 91) The Pastures (3C: A2, 34) Pataka (3C: C4, 31) Pâtisserie Maxime (4: B1, 15) Patisserie Madeleine (1A: A1, 8) Pekoe Tea (Tollcross) (3A: C2, 18) Pekoe Tea (Stockbridge) (1A: A1, 5) The Pelican Café (9B: C1, 3) Peña (9A: E2, 68) Penny Black (9A: D1, 53) Pep & Fodder (1B: C6, 48) Pera (5B: A5, 27) Peter’s Yard (2A: B5, 67) Petit Paris (2A: A3, 38) La Petite Mort (3A: C1, 16) La P’tite Folie (4: B1, 6) Piccolo Mondo (6: C5, 87) Pickled Ginger (9B: F3, 44) Pickles (1B: C4, 19) Piece @ Inovo (7: C1, 14) Piece (Argyle St) (9B: D2, 37) Piece (Miller St) (7: A2) Piecebox (4: C4, off) Pig in a Poke (1A: C5, 59) Pilgrim (2B: A3, 12) The Pipers’ Tryst (6: E1, 24) Poco Havana Bar and Cantina (6: E3, 52) Polentoni (5B: C5, 40) Pomegranate (1B: D5, 40) The Pompadour by Galvin (4: B1, 21) Porter & Rye (9B: D2, 33) Porto & Fi (5A: A2, off) The Portobello Palm Tree (5B: C5, off) The Pot Still (6: E3, 53) The Potting Shed (2A: D5, 75) Prep Fitness Kitchen (6: E3, 43) Primal Roast (6: B3, 60) The Printing Press Bar & Kitchen (1B: A6, 57) The Project Cafe (6: D2, 21) Punjabi Charing Cross (9B: G2, 54) Punjabi Junction (5B: A1, 4) Purslane (1A: B2, 25) Queen’s Arms (1A: C4, 73) Rab Ha’s (7: B2, 10) The Rabbit Hole (3C: B2, 36) The Raeburn (1A: A1, off) Rafael’s (1A: B2, 17) Ranjit’s Kitchen (8: C2, 9) The Raven (6: E3, 44) Rawlings Love to Eat (9B: A1, off) Red Squirrel (4: C1, 25) Red Onion (6: D3, 35) Redmond’s of Dennistoun (7: D1, off) Redwood Bistro (4: A3, off) Reekie’s Smokehouse (2B: B3, 20) The Regent (5B: C5, 38) Restauracja U Jarka (9B: D1, 18) Restaurant Mark Greenaway (1A: B4, 39) Restaurant Martin Wishart (5A: C2, 17) Restaurant at Blythswood Square (6: C3, 57) Rhubarb (3C: E5, off) Rick’s (1A: C4, 74) Rigatoni’s by the King’s (3A: C2, 19) The Rio Café (9A: A3, 6) Rioja (9B: D2, 27) Ristorante Teatro (6: A2, 7)

list.co.uk

81 56 81 159 31 43 31 133 31 125 159 56 84 161 31 159 56 81 139 31 159 104 104 56 75 56 62 62 62 133 143 139 56 86 56 73 43 73 160 148 31 139 139 143 56 62 32 115 164 57 86 73 175 57 32 125 32 139 139 43 139 155 76 97 32 125 44 97 99 155 126 139 32 133 126 86 88 32 165 97 73 169 97 44 81 140 172 160

Rivage (5B: C4, 41) 76 Riverhill Coffee Bar (6: E4, 98) 143 Riverhill Restaurant & Bar (6: E4, 97) 133 Riverside Café (9B: A1, off) 116 The Roamin’ Nose (1B: A2, 12) 57 Roast (9B: C1, 11) 143 Roaster’s Deli (9A: A3, off) 140 Rocket Café (3B: A2, 3) 57 Rockus (9B: D2, 39) 126 Rogano (6: F5, 112) 150 Rollo (1A: A1, 2) 32 Ronaq (1A: A1, off) 76 Ronde Bicycle Outfitters (1A: B1, 20) 58 Roots and Fruits (9A: F2, 65) 143 143 Roscoe’s Deli Bar (9A: A1, off) The Roseleaf (5A: C2, 21) 32 The Royal Dick Bar & Bistro (3C: D2, 18) 44 The Royal Exchange Coffee House (2A: C2, 14) 58 RT’s Bar (5B: B6, 37) 33 The Rum Shack (8: C3, 8) 126 Rumours Kopitiam (6: E3, 47) 148 Sabor Criollo (1A: B1, 13) 88 El Sabor (2A: D3, 85) 88 The Safari Lounge (5B: C5, off) 33 Saigon Saigon Restaurant (1B: B6, 53) 65 Saiko Kitchen (3C: A2, 35) 68 St Mungo Museum Café (7: D1, off) 116 St Giles’ Cathedral Café (2A: C2, 17) 19 The Salisbury (8: C2, 5) 126 The Salisbury Arms (3C: E4, 28) 33 Salt Café (3B: A2, 2) 44 Salt Delicatessen (9A: B3, 22) 143 Salt Horse Beer Shop & Bar (2B: A3, 8) 33 Saramago Café Bar (6: B2, 11) 116 Sasso (5A: A2, off) 81 Scotch (2A: D1, 2) 33 The Scottish Café and Restaurant (2A: B1, 1) 19, 97 The Scran & Scallie (1A: A1, 1) 33 The Scullery (9B: E3, 42) 134 Seasons (1B: C4, 24) 97 Seb & Mili (9B: D2, 26) 140 The Secret Herb Garden (3B: A4, off) 58 Serenity Café (2B: D3, 32) 58 Serrano Manchego (5B: A3, 14) 99 The 78 (9B: C2, 15) 126 44 Shackleton’s Bar & Brasserie (4: A1, off) The Shandon Belles (9B: G3, off) 134 Shebeen (Dalry Rd) (4: A4, 56) 88 Shebeen (Morrison St) (4: C2, 45) 88 Shilla (9B: D2, 21) 148 The Ship on the Shore (5A: C1, 12) 70 The Shore Bar & Restaurant (5A: C1, 11) 44 Sichuan House (6: B2, 10) 146 Siempre Bicycle Café (9A: B3, 10) 140 Silver Bowl (5B: A4, 18) 14 Singl-end (6: A1, 2) 140 The Sisters Jordanhill (9A: A1, off) 169 The Sisters Kelvingrove (9B: D2, 31) 170 six°north (9A: A3, off) 126 The Skylark (5B: C5, off) 46 Sloans (6: F6, 104) 127 Slouch (6: C2, 18) 127 Slumdog Delivered (5B: A5, 29) 14 Smile Café (9A: D1, off) 144 Smile Café Central (6: C2, 16) 140 Smith & Gertrude (1A: B2, 19) 33 Smoak (6: E3, 116) 175 Smoke Barbecue (6: E3) 175 Smoke Stack (1B: C4, 28) 102 Social Bite (St Vincent St) (6: E4, 77) 140 Social Bite (Bothwell St) (6: D4) 140 Social Bite (Rose St) (1A: B5, 55) 58 58 Social Bite (Shandwick Pl) (4: B1, 23) Sodaeng (3C: D1, 12) 68 Söderberg Peter’s Yard Stockbridge (1A: B2, 16) 58 Söderberg Pizza at the Bakery (2A: B5, 65) 58 Söderberg (Quartermile) (2A: B5, 66) 63 Söderberg (Queensferry St) (4: B1, 10) 63 Sofi’s (5A: C2, 23) 33 Sonny & Vito’s (9A: F2, 79) 140 The Southern (3C: D2, 16) 34 Southpour (3C: D2, 22) 34 Southside Social (3C: D1, 6) 34 The Sparkle Horse (9A: B3, 9) 127 Spice Lounge Kitchen (4: A3, off) 76 The Spice Pavilion (1A: D3, 37a) 76 Spirit of Thai (4: C1, 36) 104 The Spiritualist Bar & Restaurant (7: A2, 3) 127

Spit / Fire (1B: B4, 66) Spitaki (1B: D1, 68) Spitfire Espresso (7: C2, 15) Spoilt for Choice Spoon (2A: D4, 79) St Louis Café Bar (9A: A3, off) Stac Polly (1B: B4, 65) Stac Polly Brasserie, Wine and Gin Bar (1B: B4, 65) Stack Dim Sum Bar (5B: B3, 12) Stan’s Studio (7: D1, off) The Stand (1B: B5, 61) Steak (1B: C5, 37) Steak on Stones (1B: C5, 36) Stereo (6: E4, 79) The Stockbridge Restaurant (1A: B2, 23) Stockbridge Tap (1A: B1, 9) Story Café (2B: A2, 2) The Strathmore (9A: H1, off) Stravaigin Café Bar (9A: F3, 70) The Street (1B: C5, 34) Street Box (1A: A1, 6) Sugar Dumplin (6: F5, 105) Summerhall Café (3C: D2, 17) The Sun Inn Suree Thai (1A: B2, 26) Sushiya (4: B3, 63) Sygn (4: B1, 7) Sylvesters (2A: D5, 68) Tabac (6: E5, 109) The Table (1A: D3, 37) Taco Mazama (6: D5, 91) Taco Mazama (Hanover St) (1A:D5, 66) Taco Mazama (Byres Rd) (9A: C1, 44) Taco Mazama (Renfield St) (6: E4, 91) Tang’s (2A: C4, 49) Tanjore (3C: D1, 7) Tantrum Doughnuts (9B: C1, 9) Tapa Bakehouse (7: D1, off) Tapa Coffeehouse (8: C3, 11) Tapa (5A: C2, 20) Tápame (2A: C4, 61) Tarantino Ristorante (9B: D2, 20) Taste of Italy (1B: D5, 43) Tasty (8: D1, off) Tchai-Ovna House of Tea (9A: F2, 69) The Tea Room at the Botanics (9A: D1, off) The Tearooms @ The Butterfly and the Pig (6: D2, 30) Tempus Bar and Restaurant (6: D5, 91) 10 to 10 In Delhi (2A: D5, 73) Teuchters (4: B1, 22) Teuchters Landing (5A: C1, 6) Thai Lemongrass (Edin) (3A: B2, 27) Thai Lemongrass (Glas) (6: E2, 28) Thai Orchid (2A: B3, 31) Thai Siam (9B: D2, 16) Thaikhun Glasgow (9B: A1, off) Thairiffic (6: C2, 13) The Tailend (5B: A4, 19) The 13th Note Café/Bar (7: B3, 39) Three Birds Restaurant (3A: A3, 33) Three Judges (9A: B3, 14) Thyme (4: D2, 47) Tibo (7: D1, off) Tigerlily (1A: B5, 43) The Tiki Bar (6: C2, 15) Timberyard (4: D1, 29) Time 4 Thai (1A: B4, 45) Ting Thai Caravan (2A: C4, 55) Tinto Tapas Bar (8: D6, 25) Tinto Tapas Bar (9A: A3, 5) Tony Macaroni (Byres Rd) (9A: B3, 20) Tony Macaroni (W George St) (6: E3, 65) Tony Singh at Apex Grassmarket (2A: A3, 42) Topolabamba (6: E4, 72) The Tourmalet (5B: A3, 16) Tower Restaurant (2A: C4, 50) The Trading House (6: F4, 119) Tramway Café Bar (8: D1, 1) Traverse Bar Café (4: C1, 27) Treacle Bar and Kitchen (1B: C5, 30) TriBeCa (Bruntsfield Pl) (3A: B3, 30) Tribeca (Dumbarton Rd) (9A: B3, 17) TriBeCa (Fenwick Rd) (8: A5, off) TriBeCa (Park Rd) (9A: F3, 77) Tron Theatre (7: C3, 37) Tropeiro (6: C5, 86) Tuk Tuk (3A: B1, 14) Tupiniquim (2A: C5, 62) Turnip & Enjoy (9A: G2, 80)

34 88 141 14 46 165 98 34 65 141 19 102 103 127 98 35 19 127 134 35 104 165 19 14 105 68 35 46 128 98 161 84 161 161 68 76 141 141 141 100 100 160 82 165 141 116 141 134 76 35 35 105 149 105 149 149 149 14 128 47 128 63 134 47 128 98 105 105 172 172 160 160 47 161 35 98 128 116 19 35 103 165 165 165 116 166 76 88 134

The Turquoise Thistle (1B: C5, 33) 47 Tutto Matto (2B: A4, 16) 82 Twelve Triangles (5B: A5, 23) 63 Twenty Princes Street (1B: B6, 52) 98 Two Fat Ladies (9A: B3, 18) 150 Two Fat Ladies at the Buttery (9B: G3, off) 150 Two Fat Ladies in the City (6: C3, 31) 150 The Two Figs (9A: B3, 12) 128 21212 (5B: A6, 36) 73 Ubiquitous Chip (9A: C2, 34) 170 Under the Stairs (2A: C3, 48) 35 Union of Genius (2A: C4, 59) 63 Urban Angel (1A: D4, 94) 58 Urban Bar & Brasserie (6: F4, 118) 134 Usha’s (9A: B3, 13) 155 V Deep (5A: C2, 25) 35, 76 Valvona & Crolla (shop) 15 Valvona & Crolla Caffè Bar (5B: A5, 33) 59 Valvona & Crolla Ristorante (1B: B5, 59) 82 Variety Bar (6: A2, 6) 128 The Ventoux (3A: C1, 2) 36 82 Veritas Vino Ristorante (1A: B2, 14) The Vic Cafe Bar (6: C1, 12) 116 Victoria (5B: A2, 9) 36 Vietnam House Restaurant (4: B2, 74) 68 The Vintage at Drygate (7: D1, off) 128 Vinyasa (2B: B3, 23) 77 Virginia Bar & Rotisserie (7: A2, 5) 128 La Vita (6: F4, 122) 160 La Vita Spuntini (9A: C2, 30) 160 Vittoria (Geo IV Bridge) (2A: C3, 46) 82 82 Vittoria (Leith Walk) (5B: A4, 22) Viva Mexico (2A: D2, 7) 84 The Voodoo Rooms (1B: B6, 51) 47 Voujon (3C: D3, 25) 77 Vroni’s Wine & Champagne Bar (6: E4, 74) 129 The Walnut (5B: A4, 21) 48 Wannaburger (4: B1, 14) 103 The Water of Leith Café Bistro (1B: A1, 4) 59 The Waverley Tea Room (8: A4, 21) 129 Wedgwood the Restaurant (2B: B3, 27) 98 The Wee Boulangerie 15 Wee Buddha (1A: C3, 36) 69 The Wee Curry Shop (Ashton Ln) (9A: C2, 35) 155 The Wee Curry Shop (Buccleuch St) (6: D1, 23) 155 Wee Lochan (9A: A1, off) 170 The Wee Restaurant Edinburgh (1A: C4, 76) 99 The Wee Restaurant (N. Queensferry) 14 WEST Brewery (7: D5, off) 129 WEST on the Corner (9A: G4, 86) 129 The WestRoom (4: B1, 3) 36 The Western Club Restaurant (6: F4, 117) 171 Where the Monkey Sleeps (Argyle St) 141 (6: C5, 88) Where the Monkey Sleeps (West Regent St) (6: C3, 32) 141 Whighams Wine Cellars (4: B1, 16) 36 Whiski (2B: A2, 4) 36 Whiski Rooms (2A: C2, 20) 99 The Whistle Stop Barber Shop Bar & Diner (2B: A4, 14) 36 Wild Cabaret & Wicked Lounge (7: C3, 32) 116 Wild Wood Café (3C: A3, 32) 48 Wildfire (1A: B5, 48) 103 WildManWood Pizza (2A: D5, 76a) 82 The Willow Tea Rooms (Buchanan St) (6: E5, 106) 117 The Willow Tea Rooms (Sauchiehall St) (6: D2, 20) 117 The Wilson Street Pantry (7: C2, 20) 142 The Windsor (5B: A5, 28) 37 Wing Sing Inn (4: B4, 55) 65 The Winged Ox (7: D5, off) 129 The Witchery by the Castle (2A: B2, 33) 99 Woodland Creatures (5B: A2, 8) 37 WoodWinters 15 Wudon (9A: E1, 61) 149 Yadgar Kebab House (8: D1, off) 155 Yellow Bench (5B: A3, 17) 89 Yeni (1A: D4, 89) 89 Yes Sushi (1A: D4, 90) 69 Yesbar (6: E4, 93) 129 Yiamas Greek Taverna (6: F3, 49) 166 Zara’s Mediterranean Bistro (1A: B5, 50) 89 Zest (1B: B5, 60) 77 Zucca (4: C1, 34) 82 Zuhus (2B: A3, 11) 89 The Zulu Lounge (3B: A4, 5) 63

192 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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