West Side Tavern

A ‘contemporary take on a NY-style tavern’ was the pitch when this place launched in December, which (prior knowledge of Big Apple bar/restaurants or not) sounds both intriguing and pretty damn cool. West Side Tavern is the unit that sits at the entrance to Kelvinhall’s underground station, last seen as bar/arts space Bauhaus. Now, the lights have been turned down low, and a sparse 70s vibe of Formica tables is the setting for tap cocktails and Italian American comfort food.

Drinks are on point, with celebrated mixologist Max Macauley from Hybrid Drinks at the helm. ‘Gin And Juice’ is elevated with elderflower and Aperol, while his award-winning mix that blends white tequila with Fino sherry, Scottish absinthe and apple takes pride of place at the top of the list.

There’s also a specificity to the food which is striking. A chunky ragù with polenta has a sharp punch of tomato before giving way to a gelatinous and meaty depth; it’s a dish with particular components that you may well not find anywhere else in the city. So, too, a chicken parm served with a burrata sauce; the whipped texture perhaps pulling things away from the classic version, but the adventurousness is commendable.

The menu is currently changing every day, apart from the pizzas which feel locked in. They’re served ‘tavern style’ on a stand: thin, crisp and almost crustless, with toppings right up to the edges and cut into small squares. Now, Chicagoans might well argue such pizzas are more Midwest than East Coast (to be clear: we’re not talking deep dish), and there’s definitely a sense of things settling into more broad ‘gritty North American city’ watering-hole tendencies. This is no bad thing, though. The West Side Tavern seems happy to riff on some traits but not get hung up on them. It’s adapting, quickly, while still keeping loads of character and remaining unique in this particular town.

166 Dumbarton Road, Glasgow, westsidetavern.co.uk