Plate Expectations

As the cost-of-living black clouds loom over all of us and 2022 limps to a not-unwelcome demise, Jo Laidlaw gets the lowdown from industry insiders on how the current climate will impact our eating and drinking habits next year

While there’s no doubt it’s a challenging time for the hospitality industry, here at List Towers we prefer celebrating the resilience of our brilliant chefs, restaurateurs and bar owners to wallowing in gloom and doom. So, we’ve dusted off our crystal balls and hit up a few soothsaying industry pals for some eating-out predictions for the good ship 2023.

Expect a touch of nostalgia, says Scott Fraser of trends forecasters The Food People. ‘When times are tough, we generally see a return to nostalgic comfort food; the hugs on a plate that feel good rather than looking good for the ‘Gram. Think ice-cream floats and steaming plates of pasta: we predict Italian cooking will be huge this year.’ Fraser reckons the cost of energy will also see the emergence of lots of raw and no-cook recipes (ceviche, tartare, charcuterie boards), with a focus on simple dishes that showcase sourcing. ‘Try The Palmerston in Edinburgh to see this in action,’ he says.

Travel and food journalist Ailsa Sheldon has seen chefs championing local ingredients and making more sustainable choices as she travels around Scotland. ‘That isn’t new, but customers are paying more attention,’ she says. ‘I predict venison and local seafood will take up more room on menus, with less beef and fewer imported ingredients like those huge king prawns; we’d rather have a couple of langoustine and really enjoy them.’

Jonathan Trew of 5pm.co.uk believes a focus on costs means nose-to-tail eating will go more mainstream, unleashing greater creativity in kitchens, with lesser-known cuts of meat and cheaper varieties of fish worked more intensively so they go further for less money. ‘I suspect we’ll see more focused menus that cut waste, as well as more places specialising in one key ingredient,’ says Trew.

Customers are looking for more bang for their buck in general, and Nicola Moir from Glasgow creative agency Atomic10 says it’s all about the experience.

‘We crave experiences; a continuing trend for 2023 will be collaborations and takeovers which are great ways to try new cuisines on your home turf.’ Moir picks out The Wilder Kitchen’s supper clubs and popups at The Gate pub in the city’s East End as ones to look out for.

Trew agrees, pointing out that as our high streets continue to change, there will be an acceleration in the move to use new spaces for restaurants. ‘Look out for music and entertainment venues rubbing shoulders with restaurants and bars on places like Princes Street, more food markets such as The Pitt and reimagining of the traditional shopping-mall fast-food courtyard: just look at the St James Quarter to see how perceptions are changing.’

Sheldon believes that over the next 12 months, we’ll eat out less but want it to mean more. ‘Drinks-wise, I think 2023 will be all about whisky; the influx of younger talent starting distilleries and changing things up is so exciting,’ she says. ‘Actually, that’s a perfect metaphor: we’re going to take our time, be more mindful, explore complex flavours with friends and experience some fantastic new skills, both behind the bar and behind the pass.’