Chilli Cook-off

HOT IN THE CITY

David Kirkwood welcomes the return of Lupe Pintos’ annual Chilli Cook-Off, as competitors across Glasgow and Edinburgh prepare to turn up the heat

Like all the best traditions, it was meant to be a one-off. ‘But now I can’t shake it!’ laughs Dougie Bell, owner of Lupe Pintos Deli and curator/progenitor of its annual Chilli Cook-Off, where ten venues within walking distance of his shops (in Glasgow’s West End and Fountainbridge in Edinburgh) must prepare a chilli and be graded on taste, creativity and presentation by hordes of punters wearing wrestling masks. he cook o s will be the fi rst since nd ell h s t ed into that excitement with this year’s theme, Hellzapoppin’, named after the fi lm nd the ide th t ter the horrors o hell something pops and the best parties are to be had. ell o ened his dinburgh sho ye rs go nd is in no sm ll way responsible for the increased awareness of artisan Mexican and nish ingredients in the city. he store stocks o er hot s uces ‘at last count’, says Bell, while their over-the-counter chorizo is an utterly superior breed from those found in supermarkets and, for long enough it w s retty much the only l ce unters could get agave tequila in the city.

Lupe’s is both a treasure trove and an asset to the food and drink scene. And with shops in both Edinburgh and Glasgow, no one’s getting neglected. It w s ctu lly toin coss t fi rst he con esses about initially opening in Edinburgh. ‘I’ve got ties to both cities . . . it was when we realised how many folk from Glasgow were coming through to buy stuff, it kind of made sense to open a second shop.’

This is all before online shopping changed the game for so many independents. But Lupe’s is happy where it is, aware that going down that route would result in a ‘shop full of stock everywhere nd orders needing ulfi lled . Inste d they e ocused on discerning sourcing and product knowledge. The in-store experience is massive. You can also pick up copies of any of the various cookbooks Bell has written and, at this time of year, Cook-Off artwork and t-shirts from illustrator Vincent Bell (Dougie’s son). o wh t s new or this ye r s com etition e e fi n lly got [burger restaurant] El Perro Negro in Glasgow. Nick [Watkins] is a regular in the shop and knows his chillis so that should be interesting, and [wine bar] Brett have got a great reputation. They’re the closest site to the deli so I m selfi shly bi sed there In dinburgh there s n Indian restaurant joining us and I’m intrigued by the boonha chilli they’ve been working on.’ Even in a year of triumphant returns, this one feels particularly delightful.

street food

We choose a street and tell you where to eat. David Kirkwood takes us on the second leg of his two-part culinary tour of Glasgow’s Dumbarton Road

SUISSI VEGAN KITCHEN

Suissi’s pan-Asian, plant-based, sharing plate offerings are an education in creative and meat-free cooking, particularly with different types of mushroom. The rendang (with lion’s mane mushrooms) and the sweet and sour (with king trumpet) are great examples.

BASTA

The menu is small and opening hours are narrow, but Basta do simple, elegant pizzas with a bit of panache and it’s worth the detour. Think rugged, tuggy bases, with cameos from ricotta and pancetta, smoked mozzarella, roquito peppers and butternut squash.

GA GA

Julie Lin’s second site has evolved into a Partick mainstay, equally comfortable slamming out spritzes to the outdoor tables as it is doing punchy South-East Asian food. The riffs on fried chicken are always worth a punt (fried thigh with a gloriously funky sambal sauce) and the posh prawn toast (with its delicate hit of sweet chilli) has earned ‘must try’ status.

BANH MHI AND BRUNCH

The best-known characteristics and exports of Vietnamese cooking in a chirpy space: think shreds of carrot, crumbs of peanut, coriander tumbling out of baguettes. Pho and homemade spring rolls arrive at your table within a couple of minutes of ordering. Delicious, cheap and cheerful.

HAYLYNN CANTEEN

Haylynn Canteen gives the people of Whiteinch a lovely balance between classic café (breakfast rolls, filled bagels) and modern, Mediterranean twists on the form. Enjoy a poached egg with grilled merguez sausage and labneh, while artwork from Oh Pandah and Ross Muir gaze down from the white walls.

Hospitality in Edinburgh tends to go on its holidays at this time of year, but there are still a couple of summer openings to check out. Making the move from market to bricks and mortar are The Artisan Pasta Maker, whose Dundas Street restaurant offers sit-in pasta and takeaway for home-cooking, plus Ma Robert’s who are taking their Tanzanian sauces to the next level with a new café-bistro in Dublin Street. On a slightly (OK, very) different note, if you’re missing the sights and sounds of August then llie llerson s b ll it b r with cockt ils in orrest o d might fill your quota of ‘odd but I kinda liked it’ for October.

It’s not quite a phoenix from the ashes, but it’s still brilliant news that l sgow s gorgeous he ri fin is set to reo en its doors. ew owners Isle Of Skye Brewing Company promise a full range of their own beers, a new menu and a little bit of a restoration programme for the historic pub. Joining them at the glass-wash are the folk behind West End craft beer mecca Grunting Growler, who are working hard on Lunar, a natural wine and cocktail bar based in Southside.

Finally, with concerns about the cost of living rising, hat tip to the Good Food For Glasgow Campaign, who want to get more people involved in food, increasing knowledge about the Glasgow City Food Plan and access to healthy, sustainable eating. From community meals to growing tips and budget-friendly recipes, their podcast is a great place to start.

side dishes

The Griffin

BAR/RESTAURANT

NOSTRANA

Hyndland’s dining scene continues to expand and entice with the arrival of this new bar-diner. Nostrana isn’t brand new, rather an amalgamation and total transformation of two former businesses, close to the well-heeled neighbourhood’s tennis club. Owner Marco Stevenson is a well-kent face to locals who’ve been enjoying his takeaway, Pizza Magic, since 1989 and bobbing into Tabak, his adjacent newsagent, for 15 years. The arrival of Sainsbury’s round the corner was the death knell for the shop, thus plans for this new restaurant were born.

Nostrana is in a top location, maximised by a thoughtful layout featuring plenty of outdoor seating, most of it through huge doors facing into the roadside square that overlooks Old Station Park. Inside it’s all big windows (framing Hyndland’s hoi polloi), exposed brickwork, and twinkling glasses overhanging the prominent bar that signals Nostrana’s welcome to justdrinkers or those grabbing a quick slice and a vino, and maybe something for the dog (welcome in the al fresco area).

Pizza Magic was renowned, hauling in customers from way wider than your average take-out. And the pizzas here are a step-up from there. Two varieties, Neapolitan and Nostrana, cover a dozen off-the-peg choices (bespoke is also available from a long list of toppings). The Naples option comes personal, plated and adhering to the characteristics: fresh, simple and soft with a bubbly, crisp crust. The more rough-shaped and rustic Nostrana style comes on a board, designed for sharing (once you get to grips with the scissors you’re given).

A handful of pasta options and sides bolster a menu whose undoubted star headliner is pizza. Quality ingredients throughout (such as fior di latte cheese) and clear care over fundamentals such as flour types help the pizzas hit the heights of some of the best in town. (Jay Thundercliffe) n 72 Hyndland Road, Glasgow, nostrana.co.uk

RESTAURANT

DULSE

Dean Banks’ second Edinburgh restaurant (he also owns Haar in St Andrews) is a smart move away from the formal fine dining he offers across the road at The Pompadour into something altogether more neighbourhood. Formerly L’Escargot Blanc, the space still feels familiar but has scrubbed up braw; soothing blues, plenty of plants and a cleaned-up bar opens up the casual ground floor, while upstairs feels more like a traditional restaurant (the same menu is served in both).

A back bar dedicated to Scottish producers means your favourite pour may be missing from the focused cocktail list, but the sparky staff are full of recommendations and enthusiasm for their plans to plug any gaps, like making their own vermouths. The menu is mostly based around small plates, and oysters are a great place to start. They come topped with a drizzle of cucumber and jalapeño, creating a long, sweet finish rather than the traditional Tabasco burn. It’s genius, though the sensational trout pastrami and beautifully spiced North Sea cod with Goan curry sauce (just a hint of heat and acidity balancing the sweet flesh) are worthy followers.

Balance is an important word here, and Banks isn’t afraid to play with flavour and texture. While sometimes there’s a lot of richness (brown butter threatens to overwhelm the delicacy of the lobster it coats), when it’s good it’s stunning: the play of crispbread against soft trout, the contrast of creaminess against smoke. He doesn’t hide behind carbs and there’s a bravery around what he chooses to put onto each (very pretty) plate. Waiting staff are excellent at controlling the flow of dishes too, heading off at the pass a common complaint with small plate dining. That means there’s no excuse not to savour every bite in a celebration of the sea at every level. (Jo Laidlaw)

n 17 Queensferry Street, Edinburgh, dulse.co.uk