14 minute read
Flight plan
Morocco… perched on the northwest tip of Africa, directly south of Spain, is an exotic fusion of Berber, Arabian and European influences with a fascinating history. The Red City of Marrakesh lies in western Morocco.
It is a visual delight, as I gaze upward at a splendid palace ceiling and marvel at the intricate paintwork. I turn my head to admire the walls and columns, sheathed with delicately carved geps (gypsum plaster) and elaborate zellij tile mosaics. In the medieval labyrinth of the souks in the ancient walled medina, my head spins at the dazzling interplay of shimmering light and exuberant color… the tall cones of exotic spices for sale, the array of brilliant leather slippers and pottery, and the cacophony of donkeys, bicycles and people jostling their way through the maze of tiny lanes. Back at my riad I admire the exquisite architectural details in the lavish courtyard, punctuated by sweet orange trees.
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Around the corner I follow my nose toward the alluring aroma of meat sizzling in a public square. I sit at a cafe and sip mint tea, inhaling the fragrant steamy infusion. My palate is awakened by spicy tagine, favored with safron, prunes, olives, lemon and a plethora of tasty delights. Juicy oranges, spiced with cinnamon, enliven my taste buds.
The nubby texture of fat-weave rugs and thick silky pile of handmade vintage wool carpets, woven by Berber women, tempt me with their deep vegetable-dyed hues. I rub my hands across a handwoven handira (wedding blanket), sparkling with tiny mirrored sequins, intended to ward of the evil eye. Smooth supple leather poufs, hand-stitched together, and brilliant gem-colored glass lanterns, refecting the light, line the market stalls. Contrasting textures abound and delight the eye.
The morning stillness is broken by banging on metal as craftsmen hammer exquisite designs into brass Moroccan lanterns. Throughout the day, the call to prayer is sung out, in beautiful Arabic, from the 12th-century Koutoubia mosque, followed by similar calls from all the mosques in the city, until the air soon flls with a melody of calls from all directions, reminding Muslims to pray. I listen to the lilting music accompanying dancers and snake charmers in Jemaa el-Fna, the main public square, in the evening. But there is absolute peace and stillness when we escape the city to ride camels in the Sahara Desert under a blanket of twinkling stars, and again in the morning as the sun rises high above the vast dunes.
SIGHTS NOT TO MISS
Ben Youssef Madrasa A former Islamic college, founded in the 14th century, this was historically the largest madrasa in Morocco. The present building was constructed in the 16th century. The Moorish architecture, with its intricate tilework and carved geps, is extraordinary to behold.
Bahia Palace
This grand palace is a masterpiece of Moorish art and architecture, built in the 19th century by Minister
Ahmed bin Musa in honor of his wife, Bahia. It is now a museum, which is very interesting to see. Admire the carved, painted cedarwood, stained glass windows illuminated by the afternoon sun, detailed tilework and courtyard gardens.
SAADIAN TOMBS
A Necropolis dating back to the 16th century, adjacent to the Kasbah Mosque. The sepulchers and mausoleums were sealed off after the fall of the Saadi Dynasty and rediscovered in 1917. The lavish zellij tilework, carvings and architectural details are worth seeing.
www.jardinmajorelle.com French painter, Jacque Majorelle, spent 40 years creating the beautiful gardens and the vivid blue villa, which color is referred to as “majorelle blue.” Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé purchased and preserved the property in 1980. It is a pleasure to stroll the gardens and enjoy the ambling paths, water features and botanical specimens. The small Berber Museum on the property is worth a visit as well. If you have time, visit the YSL Museum nearby.
Boucharouite MuseuM
107 Derb al Cadi www.lacollectionberbere.com This small and very interesting museum specializes in Boucharouite rugs (“rag rugs” woven using old pieces of clothing, thus rather sentimental). If you appreciate textiles, this is a must. I once visited the home of a Moroccan family in a tiny village, and the woman of the house was so proud to show me her handmade Boucharouite rugs. A truly unique part of the Moroccan textile world.
SHOPS
You can spend days exploring and losing yourself in the souks in the medina, browsing shops and stalls selling rugs, metal lanterns, leather slippers (as well as bags, jackets, etc), pottery, silver trays and teapots, jewelry, basketry, spices, argan oil and other beauty products, fresh squeezed orange juice and even chameleons. Do not agree to follow a young man who promises to take you to your location (a scam!). If you need to hire a guide, hire one who is licensed (and know your purchases will include kickbacks to the guide). Be sure to include Djemaa el-Fna during your visit to the souks for some fresh squeezed orange juice and a bit of action, such as snake charmers, locals playing games, and street food vendors. Here are a few of my favorite shops...
Benzarrou Jaafar
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Tucked into a tiny corner of the medina, this small shop boasts a fabulous assortment of handmade leather slippers in every size, shape and color. Beautiful and well-made. 1 Kissariat Drouje
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souFiane ZariB 2 Rue HoudHoud, Quartier Majorelle 3 showrooms stock a huge selection of new + vintage rugs. Start with this one by Majorelle Gardens and they can guide you to the other shops. www.soufane-zarib.com
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riad yiMa Restored house turned into a shop and tea room by artist Hassan Hajjaj. Unique items made of recycled African advertisements, four sacks, metal, and more. A really interesting and unusual place. www.riadyima.com
Valerie Barkowski
A longtime resident of Marrakesh from Belgium, Valerie Barkowski has been creating timeless, bespoke home linens for over 20 years, inspired by global cultures and ancestral craft traditions. Her designs are a beautiful example of Moroccan tradition made more livable in today’s homes, and the craftsmanship is impeccable. Her lovely shop ofers a sublime selection of gorgeously detailed bed linens, pillows, leather poufs, slippers and more. 142 Arset Aouzel, Dar Bacha www.valeriebarkowski.com
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Image credit: C Zehnacher
Image credit: Delphine Warin
Americans Caitlin and Samuel Dowe-Sandes founded this fabulous encaustic tile workshop, handmade of concrete and based in Marrakesh, in 2006. They’ve taken a traditional Moroccan craft and brought it into the 21st century with their bold, modern designs. Ann Sacks is their exclusive distributor in the US. You may visit the Popham Design studio (located outside the city). by appointment.
www.pophamdesign.com/home www.annsacks.com/inspiration/meet-our-makers-popham This glass factory creates mouth blown beldi (traditional Moroccan tea glasses) from 100% recycled glass. These simple, green-tinted beauties are durable and meant for everyday use. I use mine as juice glasses in addition to the traditional mint tea. This forward-thinking company is extremely focused on sustainability. Owner, Bouchaid Harmouzi, also owns the Azalai Life Experience (see Inspired By Nature on page 32).
Lot 365 Sidi Ghanem, Route de Saf (main showroom)& La Terrasse des Epices, 15 Sou, Cherifa, Sidi Abdelaziz (small shop in the medina) www.kessybeldi.com
l’ art Du Bain
Lovely handmade organic olive oil soaps scented with honey, eucalyptus, mint and orange blossom, among others. You can fnd scrubs and clays for the hammam as well. This company was originally founded in Marrakesh, but they also have a shop in Nantes, France.
MustaPha Blaoui
Welcome to Aladdin’s cave! Wander through rooms chock full of Moroccan rugs, furniture, lanterns and interesting treasures. 144 Rue Bab Doukkala
le ParaDis Du thé
Small shop packed to the gills with gleaming metal Moroccan teapots in a multitude of shapes, sizes and designs. Sip mint tea while you attempt to decide which delightful teapot to bring home. I love using mine (and couldn’t decide on only one!). Souk el Henna, 73 Kharrazine el Bali
granD Café De la Poste
A heritage property, it was built in the ’20’s and became a renowned café as well as a post ofce. The jazzy, clubby old world ambience feels a bit like you’ve stepped back in time. www.en.grandcafedelaposte.restaurant 1 Derb Aarjane (in Spice Square) www.nomadmarrakech.com
noMaD
Located in Spice Square, Nomad is a chic spot to enjoy lunch or dinner on the rooftop, while taking in the views across the rooftops of the medina. The menu is Moroccan and international and quite delicious. In the evening, lanterns are lit and you can watch the sun set behind the
Atlas Mountains in the distance.
A hot spot in bustling spice square where you can take a break and relax with a drink or a meal of Moroccan and international fare.
la terrasse Des esPiCes
STAY The range of accommodation is vast in Marrakesh. Many old riads (Moroccan homes with interior courtyards) have been restored to their former glory and turned into boutique hotels, exuding a fusion of glamour and tribal chic. They are like staying in jewel boxes!
Don’t leave Marrakesh without visiting a hammam (traditional bath house). Many riads/hotels have them on the premises.
Meticulously restored with several absolutely beautiful and thoughtfully furnished rooms and a luxurious courtyard and splash pools. There is a pretty rooftop garden to enjoy and relax, as well as a hammam/spa. I’ve stayed here twice under its previous ownership, and it was a special experience. Our family visited together and our daughters felt like princesses. Located in a quiet corner of the medina. Really lovely.
riad caMilia
www.riadcamilia.com
Nine traditional riads combine to form this fabulously dramatic and colorful bohemian hotel. Explore fower-flled courtyards, lantern-lit pathways, hidden nooks, a fne collection of contemporary art, a plethora of plunge pools and a huge, delightful rooftop terrace on which to enjoy fne meals, practice yoga and enjoy wonderful views overlooking Koutoubia Mosque, the medina and the Atlas Mountains beyond. El Fenn is a spectacular place to stay. The rooms are each unique, infused with gorgeous hues and full of very special details, such as handmade beds, marble tubs, hand-stitched camel leather foors and open wood freplaces. There is a lovely hammam, spa and boutique full of unique local treasures. Enjoy delicious food at the restaurant and bar.
Image credit: Kasia Gatkow
Image credit: David Loftus
Image credit: Daniel Hack Image credit: Cecile Perrinet
El Fenn
Have a browse at El Fenn’s delightful boutique and enjoy a drink at the charming shop bar.
www.el-fenn.com/boutique/
Quaint and atmospheric, this funky, lively and color-splashed riad is infused with charm. It is a soothing spot to relax and take a break from the hustle and bustle of the medina, with its cool plunge pool and sunny terrace. Sleeping at Riad Due is like cozying up in a warm nook.
www.riaddue.com
Located in the heart of the medina, near the famous Jemaa el-Fna Square, this boutique riad consists of 9 unique rooms decorated in a chic Berber tribal style. The rooftop terrace features a restaurant and juice bar, where you can enjoy views of the bustling city and the Atlas Mountains or practice yoga. Relax in Pure Bliss Spa and Hammam and partake of traditional Moroccan bathing rituals and wellness.
Images credit: John Stapels, Ibiza Mon Amour & Roberto Apuzzo
I love the earthy tones found inside Riad Bliss. The use of organic materials and locally sourced
furnishings and accessories embody a chic Berber vibe of the nearby Sahara Desert and Atlas
Mountains. This traditional Moroccan bath is located in the center of the Nomade suite.
Peacock Pavilions
On the outskirts of Marrakesh lies the lovely Peacock Pavilions, an artisanal boutique hotel built on an olive grove by Maryam Montague and her husband, Chris Redecke. They often host yoga or art retreats, weddings, and design safaris, led by Maryam. There are lovely gardens, a glorious pool and a movie theater, as well as a dining tent, among several other amenities. The hotel supports Project Soar, Maryam’s non-proft organization which empowers local Moroccan girls. The brand’s mantra is “be good, make good and do good.” Read more in the section “In the Workshop With” where I interviewed Maryam and learned more about Peacock Pavilions, as well as her other projects. www.peacockpavilions.com
Image credit: Maryam Montague
Image credit: Natalie Opocensky Image credit: Vik M Photography
Kasbah Bab Ourika
For a quick escape, head to the lush foothills of the Atlas Mountains to the lovely Kasbah Bab Ourika for a night or two. It’s nestled on a hill in the beautiful Ourika Valley, less than an hour from Marrakesh. You can take a walk through the neighboring village, enjoy a guided hike in the surrounding hills or simply relax in the pretty gardens and take in the views. Each room has its own unique character. You can enjoy olive wood fres in your room in the evenings. Beatriz Maximo (PR and marketing director) is from Portugal but has lived in Marrakesh for 21 years. She is often on site, with her devoted little pug, Poppy, and is delightful and helpful. Staf can also help arrange tours to the desert, excursions to mountain villages and local guided hikes. www.kasbahbabourika.com
