The Lombok GuideIssue 284 is Online Now! by The Lombok Guide

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Issue 284 | 26 November – 10 December 2018

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LOMBOK GUIDE ( 0812 3734 4894 | www.thelombokguide.com

PUBLISHED BI-WEEKLY IN LOMBOK, FOR LOMBOK

Getting to Lombok Getting Around Lombok Map Best in Lombok Senggigi Senggigi Map What’s Hot / Local News Special Feature Special Feature Special Feature Distribution Classifieds Useful Contacts The Cities Cities Map The Southwest South Lombok Map Kuta & The South Coast Kuta Map The Gilis Gili Islands Fast Facts Getting to Gilis Gilis Map

Putri Cilinaya Event North Lombok

IN THIS ISSUE Page 2 Page 4 & 8 Page 6

Page 10 & 11 Page 12 - 16 Page 14 Page 18 Page 22 & 23 Page 30 & 31 Page 36 & 37 Page 40 Page 42 Page 44 Page 45 - 47 Page 46 Page 48 - 51 Page 52 Page 53 - 63 Page 63 Page 64 - 76 Page 71 Page 73 Page 75

To find out more, pick up a copy of The Lombok Guide from the locations listed on page 40 or visit www.thelombokguide.com and discover the magic of Lombok for yourself… Like thousands of others, you’ll be enchanted!

FAST BOAT TRANSFERS BETWEEN BALI, GILI T AND LOMBOK EASY TRANSFERS TO GILI GEDE (SOUTHWEST LOMBOK)

Gili Getaway Hassle-free bookings and safe, comfortable transfers every day! Ph: +62 811 380 1717 or +62 821 4489 9502 | (WhatsApp): +62 ONLINE BOOKINGS &813 INFO3707 4147 giligetaway@ozemail.com.au www.giligetaway.com

Tourism Information

GETTING TO LOMBOK

It’s easy to get to Lombok from Bali – flight time is only around 30 minutes and fares start from around Rp 350,000 (approx. US $35) one way. Buy tickets direct from the airline counters at the domestic airports, or contact local travel agents in both Bali and Lombok.

Lombok International Airport (abbreviated to LIA with the IATA code “LOP”) is the main airport on Lombok.

Direct flights to Lombok from Bali, Jakarta, Jogja and Surabaya are available from multiple airlines every day and are usually timed to connect with European flights. Lombok is an important connection for travel to the eastern islands, in particular the islands of Sumbawa, Komodo and Flores.

Garuda Indonesia / Citilink have direct flights daily between The airport is close to Praya (Central Lombok); approximately Lombok and Bali, Surabaya, Makassar and Jakarta. Call Centre: 40km south of the city of Mataram, and around 1 hour drive from 08041 807 807. www.garuda-indonesia.com Senggigi, and 25 minutes from Kuta. Lion Air / Wings Air has daily Airport departure tax is included in the price of all tickets. flights between Lombok, Bali, Bima (Sumbawa), Jakarta and Surabaya. BALI TO LOMBOK BY AIR Ph: +62 370 6627444 / 642180. In Lombok, all flights depart and arrive at Lombok International www.lionair.co.id Airport. In Bali, flights arrive and depart at the domestic terminal Batik Air flies direct between at Ngurah Rai (Denpasar) Airport. Lombok and Jakarta, with two Garuda Airlines has direct flights between Lombok and Bali flights every day. www.batikair.com every day. Call Centre: 0 8041 807 807. NAM Air operates a flight between Lombok and Bima in www.garuda-indonesia.com Sumbawa every day using Boeing 737-500 aircraft. Bookings can

be made online at www.sriwijayaair.co.id. Wings Air / Lion Air flies between Bali and Lombok daily. BALI TO LOMBOK BY SEA The companies code-share, so you may purchase a Lion Air ticket and find yourself on a Wings Air flight! Lombok, Call Centre: +62 Padang Bai Harbour (Bali) provides the sea link between mainland Bali and Lombok. Lembar Harbour (Lombok) is on the southwest 80 4177 8899. Bali, ph: +62 361 765132. www.lionair.co.id coast, approx. 1 hour south of Senggigi, Lombok. Arrange your NAM Air operates a daily flight between Lombok and Bali every own transport and buy tickets direct from the harbours, or use a reputable tour company to provide a transfer service. evening using Boeing 737-500 aircraft. Bookings can be made Public Ferries depart every hour for the sea voyage between online at Padang Bai Harbour (Bali) and Lembar Harbour (Lombok). The www.sriwijayaair.co.id crossing between the islands costs Rp 46,000 per person and takes approx. 4 to 5 hours. Lembar Harbour ph: +62 370 681 209. INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Padang Bai Harbour ph: (+62 363) 41849 / 41840 Lombok International Airport has full Visa on Arrival (VOA) FAST BOATS facilities, including 30 day “Visa Free” (no charge) for tourists. Ph: +62 370 622987. There are now numerous “fast boat” services operating between Bali and Lombok. Silk Air (a subsidiary of Singapore Airlines) flies direct between Lombok and Singapore, four times per week (Sunday, Monday, Wednesday and Friday). Ph: +62 370 628254 / 628255. www.silkair.com

Blue Water Express has services between Bali and mainland Lombok, with convenient departures from two different locations on Bali – Serangan (near Benoa Harbour) and Padang Bai Harbour – every day. Fares include air conditioned hotel transfers in Bali. Ph: +62 361 895 1111 / 0813 3841 8988. www.bluewater-express.com

Air Asia operates direct flights between Lombok and Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia, with many international connections available. Flights operate between Lombok and KL twice Gili Getaway operates daily, seven days per week. several comfortable fast boats www.airasia.com connecting Bali and mainland Lombok (including the Gili Garuda Airlines flies between Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia and Lombok every day, with a short stop-over in Jakarta. International Islands and Gili Gede in the connections from around the world are available via Jakarta. Call southwest) with daily transfers from Serangan Harbour on Centre: 08041 807 807. www.garuda-indonesia.com Bali. Fares include air conditioned hotel transfers to main points DOMESTIC FLIGHTS in Bali. They also offer a VIP transfer service from Gili Gede to the south coast, the cities, Senggigi and other destinations European connections are easy via Jakarta (the capital city of Java), Bali and other capital cities such as Jogjakarta, Surabaya and around Lombok. Ph: +62 811 380 1717 or +62 821 4489 9502. (WhatsApp): +62 813 3707 4147. www.giligetaway.com Makassar.

GETTING AROUND

Tourism Information Three airport shuttle services are available – one to and from central Senggigi (LIA Senggigi), another to and from Mataram (LIA - Mataram Pool Damri), and one to and from Selong in East Lombok (LIA – Selong Pancor). Officially, the scheduled departure times are every hour for shuttle buses to the city of Mataram and every 1 and 1/2

LOMBOK INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT is a relatively small airport that handles domestic flights between Bali, Jakarta and other Indonesian cities and international flights to and from Singapore and Kuala Lumpur.

There are official taxi counters inside the arrivals hall that will allocate you a fixed price taxi to most destinations plus charge an additional airport fee of Rp 17,500; however, it is just as easy to walk outside and catch a metered taxi independently. Ignore the many touts that will approach you with offers of cheap fares – they are not licensed operators and often quote low prices, which can quickly change once you are in the car. Avoid eye contact and avoid the hassle.

Getting to the Airport: Lombok Taxi (Blue Bird) is the most convenient taxi operator and are allowed to drop passengers directly in front of the departure terminal. Note that they cannot pick up passengers from inside the airport grounds.

If you do need to use an independent driver – if you are a large group or have a lot of luggage or sports equipment, such as surf boards – make sure you negotiate a fixed price before you get in the vehicle.

From the Airport: taxis are available to meet all arriving flights. After collecting your baggage, head out of the exit doors of the terminal and through the arrivals hall to the official airport taxi parking area (at the end on the right hand side). Kotama and Kotasi are the main operators, using dark blue sedans carrying a maximum of 4 passengers (less if you have a lot of luggage). These taxis are licensed and insured and will use the meter to calculate your fare anywhere on the island. Approximate taxi fares: to Senggigi Rp 220,000; to Mataram Rp 160,000; to Kuta: Rp 90,000; to Bangsal Harbour Rp 350,000.

The helpful drivers tend to stop at other popular points along the route, including dropping off passengers at the roundabout in Gerung (useful if you are heading to Sekotong or Lembar), several points near the city, and outside the old Selaparang Airport on the way to Ampenan (where taxis also await the arrival of the buses). The trip terminates opposite the Galleria shops on the main street in Senggigi (just south of Asmara Restaurant). If you need to stop beforehand, let the driver know and he will usually accommodate your request.

Organising an airport transfer with your hotel is often the easiest option, with the hotel driver meeting you on arrival and transferring you to your hotel in comfort. Check with your hotel – charges are usually only slightly more than a taxi. For low cost airport transfers, the DAMRI bus is the cheapest way to travel between Senggigi, Mataram and the airport (see below).

hours to Senggigi, from 3am until 8pm. However, you may find yourself on a bus that combines both routes, stopping first near Mataram and then continuing on to Senggigi.

The public DAMRI bus uses air conditioned Mercedes buses which seat around 40 passengers and are an economical solution to airport transfers to and from Senggigi and the cities. The DAMRI counter is located inside the arrivals hall, at the end on the left hand side. The bus parks just outside the hall on the left. The DAMRI counter is manned with an information officer who issues tickets for the bus service. Prices are clearly shown on sign boards at the counter. DAMRI operate a regular schedule of departures every day to coincide with airline schedules.

The trip to Senggigi takes around 90 minutes and costs just Rp 40,000 per person (Rp 30,000 to Mataram, and Rp 35,000 to Selong). If your hotel is outside of Senggigi, flag down a metered Blue Bird taxi from the shuttle stop in Senggigi to take you to your hotel or villa. Around Lombok: Lombok is easy to get around. The roads are in good condition and there is little traffic, apart from in the cities. The island itself is only slightly smaller than Bali at 115km (70 miles) long and 80km (50 miles) wide; it is not practical to drive around Lombok in one day. Continued on Page 8

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Lombok Map

GETTING AROUND Continued from Page 4

Taxis are easily available in Lombok and, unlike in other areas of Asia, all use their meters (argo) to calculate fares, so there is no need to haggle a price. Bluebird taxis (light blue colour) are the largest company in Lombok and you will find them in the cities and around tourist areas such as Senggigi.

Motorbikes are the most popular form of transport and are generally small, light 125cc bikes with automatic gears. Modern and economical motor scooters, such as a Yamaha Mio, are easy to ride and do not have gears. Expect to pay between Rp 35 – 60,000 per day for motorbike rental, depending on age and type. Both require an international drivers’ licence.

Tours are readily available in all the tourist areas, and drivers and guides are licensed by the local Kotasi (tour organisation), who also regulate prices in the industry. Express Taksi (white cars) are also available, mainly in the cities. Taxis can be used to make trips to Kuta or Lembar and Bangsal Harbours and, if you are shopping or making day trips by taxi, ask the driver to wait and leave the meter running. Fares are still very low compared to those in the west. Short trips around Senggigi will cost around Rp 20,000; a taxi from Senggigi to Mataram is around Rp 65,000.

Express Taxi, ph: 0370 647 555 Cars and Motorbikes can be hired in Lombok and driving yourself is easy. Cars drive on the left hand side of the road (as in the UK). Modern, air conditioned cars that comfortably seat 5 people including the driver can be hired for between Rp 350 – 450,000 per day, including basic insurance.

and are still used today, although they have been replaced by cars and motorbikes in the cities. The covered wooden carriages are pulled by small local ponies and, in villages and at the local markets in Kebun Roek, they are popular transport, particularly for carting goods.

Use cidomo for short trips, such as getting to restaurants and hotels around Senggigi. A short trip should cost around Rp 20,000; negotiate the fare with the driver before climbing in. There are no cars or motorised transport on the Gili Islands, so cidomo are the main form of transport and the islands’ cidomo have a fixed price schedule of fares, much higher than on Lombok.

Most tour operators are reliable and will have a wealth of local knowledge, which can make touring a more rewarding experience. It is also the most comfortable way to explore the island, as you have time to sit back and observe, rather than negotiating traffic and unfamiliar roads. Bemo (pronounced ‘be moh’) are generally small minibuses used as public transport in towns and cities. They are a cheap way of travelling, but can be uncomfortably crowded.

Phone for a taxi or ask your hotel to phone, or flag one down from the side of the road. Make sure the driver starts the meter when you get in. Lombok Taxi (Blue Bird), ph: 0370 627 000 (or download the ‘My Blue Bird’ App from Google Play, iTunes, or from the Blue Bird Group website)

Tourism Information

Popular tours, such as day trips to Sedang Gile waterfall, or to Kuta and the south coast, are structured to take in a full day of sightseeing. Tours range between Rp 350 – 700,000 a day for a driver and an air conditioned vehicle for up to 4 passengers, depending on distances and the number of places visited. * Expect to pay high end prices quoted during peak seasons. Cidomo (pronounced ‘chi doh moh’) are traditional horse drawn carts that were once the main form of transport in Lombok

The small versions used in villages are vans with an open back and seats along each side. Flag down a passing bemo from the side of the road and climb on board; press the button on the ceiling when you want to stop and get off and pay the driver when you disembark. Short hops cost around Rp 5,000. These bemos can also be chartered for your private use; negotiate a fare with the driver for a direct trip to a specific location, without stopping to pick up other passengers. In the cities, larger bright yellow bemos travel the routes from Ampenan to Mataram, Mataram to Cakra, and beyond. You will see them cruising the streets, horns beeping, as they pick up and drop off passengers. If you are travelling between the cities, you will need to change bemo, as each serves only one area. Fares between cities are Rp 5,000.

Tourism Information

BEST IN

This world-class course was designed by Thomson, Wolveridge and Perrett, who have respected the unique setting and contours of the location. The 18 hole, par 72 championship course (6245 meters) offers world-class challenges for golfing enthusiasts of all levels in a natural and picturesque environment.

SURFING

Kuta Beach

BEACHES People come to Lombok for our fantastic unspoiled beaches! The whole island is surrounded by postcard perfect beaches with crystal clear waters and clean white sand fringed by coconut palms. Drive just north of Senggigi to Malimbu or Nipah and enjoy deserted beaches with fine snorkelling and swimming. The southwest coast has particularly fine beaches, especially in Sekotong and the small islands off the coast.Visit the small islands of Gili Asahan and Gili Layar for the ultimate island escapes or stay at the luxurious Ko - ko - mo Resort on Gili Gede to explore the secret islands of the southwest. The beaches around Kuta are so breathtakingly beautiful they must be seen to be believed! Visit Tanjung Aan for fantastic scenery, Selong Belanak for long stretches of white sand and turquoise waters, or swim in the lovely protected bay at Mawun.

DIVING AND SNORKELLING With so many islands, Lombok offers a myriad of diving and snorkelling opportunities. The best known locations are around the Gili islands – Gili Air, Gili Meno and Gili Trawangan. And yes – the Gilis are open and already receiving a lot of visitors! Snorkelling is easy from the shore and all three islands are well served by professional dive operators who offer certification courses, day and night dives and specialised courses, as well as liveaboard adventures to exotic locations.

Lombok is a world-renown surfing destination amongst surf enthusiasts world-wide. Huge waves and challenging surf lure die-hards to Bangko-Bangko (also known as Desert Point) on the southwestern tip of Lombok. Kuta, on the south coast, is surf-central and has a range of accommodations and facilities especially for surfers. Here you can hire a board, get board repairs and take surf lessons from the professionals. The waves at Gerupuk and Tanjung Aan offer a variety of challenges from beginners to sheer madness! Ekas Bay has two surf breaks: Inside Ekas and Outside Ekas with waves suitable for beginners to experts, depending on the season. At certain times of the year when conditions are right, you’ll find locals surfing the breaks at Senggigi and Mangsit Beach, and off Gili Air and Gili Trawangan.

For the more adventurous, there is superb snorkelling and diving around the islands off the southwest coast, as well challenging dive sites off the south coast and the small uninhabited islands off the east coast. GOLF Sire Beach Golf Club is located on the shores of Sire Beach in northwest Lombok, close to the Oberoi and Tugu hotels. It is less than one hour’s drive from Senggigi.

Surfing Gerupuk by Gretah Gray

Tourism Information

Benang Kelambu Waterfall by Iwan Haryanto

LOMBOK

11 come together to pray and celebrate. Built around 1714, Pura Lingsar was originally based on the prevailing animist beliefs of the time, and some of the original statues remain today. Perang Topat is an annual festival held at Lingsar and features a ritualised war with rice cakes, which also serve as an offering to the Gods.

The gardens at Narmada are beautifully maintained and surround the pools and lake in this cool hillside setting. Take a picnic and enjoy a few relaxing hours here or combine the trip with a visit to Lingsar or Suranadi. Pura Suranadi, a complex of three temples located a few kilometres north of Narmada in Suranadi, is the oldest and holiest of the Balinese temples in Lombok, founded by the 16th-century Javanese priest, Danghyang Nirartha.

Much of the island is still covered by natural rain forest and jungles, making Lombok ideal for ecotourism and adventure tours.

HISTORIC SITES & TEMPLES There are a number of interesting temples around the west coast, many of which are Hindu or ancient animist sites of worship. Pura Lingsar is possibly the only place in the world where Hindus and Moslems

Pringgasela in Central Lombok is a small village which is steeped in tradition and is a major centre for weaving ikat.Visit the small houses and shops here to see the old traditional looms being used to create intricately woven, colourful fabrics. Sukarara is 5 km to the west of Praya, heading south towards Kuta. This is another weaving village where quality ikat and traditional cloth is displayed and sold. Weavers work outside many of the shops, using antiquated â&#x20AC;&#x153;back strap loomsâ&#x20AC;? to painstakingly produce works of art. Some of the larger pieces can take several months to weave and collectors from around the world visit these villages to purchase the blankets, sarongs and cloth produced here.

There are a number of spectacular waterfalls on the island which provide lovely trekking opportunities, whether travelling independently or as part of a tour.

The awesome Benang Stokel and Benang Kelambu waterfalls, in Central Lombok, are located within a short trek of each other and make a perfect day trip for those who appreciate truly magical natural surroundings.

Lombok is famous for its traditional earthenware pottery made from local clay with distinctive designs, as well as handwoven sarongs and fabrics (ikat).

Taman Narmada (or Narmada Park) in Narmada (around 6 km east of Cakranegara), was created in the late 1800â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s as a replica of Gunung Rinjani and its crater lake.

TREKKING

Air Jeruk Manis, near Tetebatu, is set in a cool mountain location and reached by a pretty walk through rice fields and forest.

HANDICRAFT VILLAGES

Underground streams bubble up into restored baths, used for ritual bathing. Huge sacred eels live in the pools and streams here, and can sometimes be lured out with an offering of boiled eggs (purchased at a nearby stall). To see a sacred eel is considered very lucky! Across the road from the temple is a local market complex where you can sample tasty charcoal grilled satays and buy cold drinks and fresh seasonal fruits.

Banyumulek, easily reached on the road south to Lembar Harbour, is an important centre for pottery on Lombok. The small village has many shops selling pottery produced in the area, as well as from the other main pottery-making villages such as Penujak and Masbagik. Lombok pottery, with its distinctive terracotta styles, is famous internationally and is exported throughout the world.

Getting around Lombok is easy by car or motorbike and you can hire these in all the main tourism areas, with an International Drivers License.The roads are generally in good condition and traffic is light. Alternatively, hire a car and driver for exploring or take part in the tours and day trips offered by the many tour agencies on the island.

Tourism Information

Senggigi Bay by Simon Mammino

SENGGIGI & THE WEST COAST Senggigi is the main tourism resort area on Lombok’s West Coast and is around a onehour drive northwest of Lombok International Airport.

The Chandi Boutique Resort, with contemporary villas in a peaceful coconut grove, and the resort’s Meru Restaurant, are located on the quiet beachfront here.

The Senggigi tourism strip starts a few kilometres before central Senggigi and development runs north along the coastal road for about 10 km, with many hotels and restaurants positioned along the beautiful beaches that line the entire west coast.

The Cowshed Steakhouse is also located on the main road in Batu Layar, just a five minute drive south of Senggigi.

A few kilometres south of Senggigi, The Hill (locally called The Bukit), is a residential community perched on a green hillside in Batu Layar. The homes and villas here feature stunning architectural design and have magnificent views over the ocean.

Closer to Senggigi, Batu Bolong is the beach resort area forming a strip between the historic Batu Bolong Temple and the southern gateway to Senggigi.

Café Alberto is located on the beachfront in Batu Bolong, just before the entrance to Senggigi. Directly across the road from Café Alberto is the main entrance to the Green Valley residential area. Senggigi Beach is the large bay that forms the centre of Senggigi. The main

Senggigi Beach

road runs parallel to the beach and large resorts occupy the space between; with Kila Senggigi Beach Hotel at the south end and the Sheraton Senggigi Beach Resort at the north end of the bay.

Senggigi Beach is a wide protected bay with promontories at each end. The beach is lovely for swimming and relaxing but can become crowded on Sundays and public holidays.

Continued on Page 16

Senggigi Map

Tourism Information

16 Continued from Page 12

One of the most spectacular sights on the island is the sunset viewed from Senggigi Beach, with the bright orange sun sinking into the sea to the west and Bali’s Gunung Agung volcano silhouetted on the horizon like a giant pyramid floating in the ocean. In the centre of the bay is the Pasar Seni (Art Markets) with many small shops selling handicrafts, clothing, sarongs and other souvenirs. Lining the beach side of the Markets are small restaurants for dining next to the waves. Come for a drink at sunset and then enjoy pizza and delicious Italian and Indonesian food at Lotus Bayview Restaurant.

SENGGIGI & THE WEST COAST At the end of the road through Kerandangan Valley is the Taman Wisata Alam – Kerandangan Nature Reserve – with clearly marked hiking paths leading through the rain forest along the river. There is a Ranger’s hut and basic visitors centre near the entrance. The park boasts a small waterfall, pretty river scenery, families of local monkeys, and a variety of tropical plants and birdlife. Further north, Mangsit has developed as an accommodation alternative to Senggigi, with boutique style hotels positioned along the breathtaking beaches of this section of coast. On the south end of Mangsit Beach is the lovely Puri Mas Boutique Resort. The popular Qunci Villas is in the centre and Katamaran Resort is located on the north end.Verve

Malimbu by Iwan Haryanto

However, it is still scenic and peaceful during weekdays. In the early mornings, enjoy a stroll along the beach looking out to the ocean dotted with the bright, colourful sails of fishing boats, as the local fishermen return with the day’s catch.

Beach Club is also located along this stretch of beach, along with small local beach cafes selling cold beer and cheap eats. There is good snorkelling in front of Puri Mas at high tide and, when the wind is right, surfers take to the waves in front of Qunci Villas. Furthest north are Klui and Lendang Luar, with Living Asia Resort located on the long stretch of pristine beach at Lendang Luar. Mainly deserted white sand beaches, flanked by coconut groves continue all the way north along the main coastal road. Malimbu and Nipah are two picturesque bays less than half an hour from Senggigi, which are good for snorkelling, swimming and getting away from it all. West Coast by Barbara

Senggigi Reef, off the southern point, has good coral for snorkelling during high tide. To the left of the reef, Anjungan is a popular surf spot and, in the right conditions, has some decent surf breaks. When the winds are high, local surfers can be seen catching the waves here every day. Canoes can be hired from the beach on the weekends and during peak tourism times. Local outrigger boats (perahu) can be chartered from the beachfront for trips along the coast or out to the Gili Islands. Away from the beach, the main road (Jalan Raya Senggigi) is lined with restaurants, shops, tour agencies, bars and nightclubs; many of which have live music in the evenings. There are convenience stores and supermarkets, numerous ATM’s, money changers, a post office and other tourist facilities. About 2 km north of central Senggigi, Kerandangan has a popular beach nearby and a road leading into a residential area situated in a pretty valley. This area was badly damaged during the earthquakes in August and is being rebuilt.

Whether you are seeking luxury accommodation at a top resort with fine dining and spa facilities, or a budget holiday with days spent exploring – or all the choices in between – the Senggigi area caters for all tastes and budgets. From Senggigi, it’s easy to explore the attractions of the south coast or to hop on a boat to the famous Gili Islands for the day. Swim, snorkel, dive, hike, lie in the sun, have a massage, eat and drink at some of the great restaurants and bars in town; or just take a break and be enchanted by the peace and beauty of West Lombok.

What’s Hot / Local News

18 • Nothing beats a Sunday Roast! If you are in Bali, you must try Chef Sydney's take on Sunday Roast at Henry’s. The delicious roast is served on a large platter with Yorkshire Pudding and gravy (*min. 2 people) at Henry’s Grill & Bar, Level 1 at Aryaduta Bali on Jalan Kartika Plaza from 12.00 noon - 6.00 pm. It’s a steal at just Rp 190K /person! • Looking for a great place for a surf holiday? Ekas Surf Resort is now open at Ekas – home to some of the best surf breaks on Lombok’s stunning south coast! The resort offers modern, spacious and contemporary accommodation in a luxurious setting, and a surf school offering classes for all levels from beginners up. Surf lessons are geared for fun with personalised classes and amazing coaches who will provide tips, tricks and techniques to get you up and riding on the best equipment. You don’t even need to bring your own gear – Ekas Surf Resort has a huge selection of boards for hire including beginner foam boards, fishes, shortboards, mini mals and longboards.

When you’re not surfing, kitesurfing, canoeing, snorkelling, or hiking, you can relax and chill-out at the resort’s restaurant, pool or entertainment area. See page 58. • The Gili Eco Trust annual Christmas Market fundraiser will happen at Gili Teak on Gili Trawangan on 8 December from 1pm to 6pm. The market showcases a selection of local handicrafts, recycled products, zerowaste and sustainable gifts, xmas décor and a ‘better than last year’ upcycled winter wonderland and activites, with face painting and games for kids. If you’re on Gili T, mark your calendar – it’s a great place to find environmentally friendly presents for Christmas! • The Sheraton Senggigi Beach Resort is offering indulgent discounts from now until the end of the year at its beautiful Laguna Spa on the beachfront at the resort.

The purpose-built Laguna Spa enjoys a fabulous location overlooking Senggigi Beach and now you can enjoy a 60 minute Traditional Body Massage for just Rp 150,000 ++ as well as 50% off selected spa treatments!

Laguna Spa offers a wide selection of spa treatments using indulgent products, such as body wraps, massages, scrubs and more. Bookings are recommended. See opposite page. • Don’t miss the last Cellar Party of the year on Friday, 7 December starting at 7pm! The Cellar Party is held at Square Restaurant in Senggigi on the first Friday of every month and features three and a half hours of free-flow red and white wines, together with a delicious buffet including sushi, tapas, pasta, roast meats, salads and desserts. This month’s party will feature Bali Moon cocktails from 7- 8pm in addition to the wines. Price is Rp 400,000 nett all inclusive or you can choose the ‘buffet only’ option for just Rp 200,000 net per person. Book before 7 December and receive an additional 10% discount! See advert on page 3.

SENGGIGI SUNSET JAZZ FESTIVAL 2018 This year will feature performances by Andien, Brigitta, RAN, Pusakata, Vina Panduwinata, the Lombok Blues Community and more, with special guests, renowned father and daughter jazz musicians, Indra Lesmana and Eva Celia.

Following the success of the inaugural Festival in 2017, the Senggigi Sunset Jazz Festival will be held again this year on Sunday, 9 December. Sponsored by Bank Mandiri (hence the title “Mandiri Senggigi Sunset Jazz 2018”) this festival of music on the beachfront is without doubt the best music event of the year in Lombok! Last year, hundreds of people gathered on Senggigi Beach to watch a fabulous line-up of musicians perform on stages set up on the beachfront.

The stage will be set up on the Senggigi beachfront (in front of Kila Resort) and performances start from 3.45pm.

Senggigi Sunset Jazz is a free event and all lovers of music are welcome. Last year’s Festival was a huge success… get there early for the best spots!

[ You r Key to an Idyllic Lombok ]

[ Good Taste is Never Out of Style ]

Elegant Italian Dining

Asian & Indonesian Restaurant

Beachfront Dining Restaurants Open Daily 7am - 11pm

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Jalan Raya Senggigi, Lombok, Indonesia Ph: +62 (0) 370 693013 | info@puribungalombok.com | www.puribungalombok.com

Special Feature

VILLA SELALU… After a scenic drive down the west coast, we arrive at the tiny village of Tembowong. The big island of Gili Gede (“Gili” means island and “Gede” means big) sits so close to the shore it seems like part of the mainland. We hop into the small outrigger boat and putt along the shores of the island, checking out the sandy beaches and hills that run like a ridge down the back of this big island in Southwest Lombok.

Before long we pull up to a pretty beach with crystal clear water lapping on the white sand, sheltered by a shady grove of palm trees. Here a golf cart is waiting to whisk us to the top of the hill – and to amazing Villa Selalu! “Selalu” means always or forever. Maybe it’s named for the views that go on forever. The blues of the ocean and sky stretching out forever. Or maybe it’s because, after a short while here, you know you could stay forever. Perched on the top of the hill,Villa Selalu enjoys 360º views of the stunning southwest landscape – from the rolling hills on the mainland that stretch all the way to the misty silhouette of Mt Rinjani in the north, and out across the magical ‘secret islands’ of the southwest to the pyramid shape of Mt Agung on Bali.

The spacious layout of villa is designed to take advantage of these expansive views; from the living room you can look out over the infinity pool to the ocean below and in the other direction, across the hills and islands to the west. The gorgeous design by owner Belinda Darvall takes full advantage of this privileged location. Light-filled, airy rooms flow seamlessly from inside to outside, showcasing the best of tropical living. Cool white walls form a backdrop for the luscious décor – precious collectibles, coloured glass, striking artwork, industrial pieces juxtapositioned against soft fabrics and pillows, and splashes of blue mirroring the sea and sky. It’s elegant, opulent, and undeniably luxurious, and yet Villa Selalu invites you to live in its spaces; to jump into the two metre deep infinity pool and make a

splash; to sprawl on the bed with its piles of pillows and soft bamboo sheets; to climb to the roof with cocktail in hand and marvel at the magnificent sunsets. Villa Selalu boasts four spacious bedrooms – all sumptuously appointed with kingsized beds and quality linens. Large walk-in closets provide plenty of storage and separate the bedrooms from the huge spa-style bathrooms, complete with openair double showers finished in marble and stone. Complimentary Wifi, satellite televisions, air conditioning and ceiling fans, a DVD player and a large collection of films and books, as well as games and puzzles are all part of the amenities. Outside are numerous sitting areas and lounging spaces for gathering in groups or spending some time alone taking in the views. A pretty gazebo covered in bright bougainvillea overlooks the ocean, providing a lovely setting for breakfast in the mornings. Of course, the 18-metre infinity pool forms the focal point for outdoor living, with its spacious deck and comfortable sun lounges

Special Feature

STAY FOREVER!

Guests can also choose to dine beachside at the lovely Beach Box Café. Swap the pool for the beach and spend the day playing in the clear turquoise water before taking a table under a shady thatched gazebo at the café and ordering a fabulous lunch.

positioned to take in the best views of the ocean and southwest coastline. Alongside the pool, a spacious pavilion houses a barbecue and outdoor bar area with a long wooden table looking out over the ocean; perfect for leisurely evening dinners.

The menu is innovative and fresh, using organic produce from the villa’s gardens and featuring delicious pizzas cooked in the wood-fired oven. After lunch, lay back with a cold drink in a lazy chair under an umbrella and have a siesta, fanned by the fresh ocean breezes. Other activities include riding bikes around the island to explore the villages and meet the friendly locals, or take to the water on SUP or kayaks provided by Villa Selalu. They can also organize snorkelling and island hopping tours to the beautiful secret islands nearby.

A media and library room off the main living area offers another space for relaxing and can easily be converted into another bedroom for large groups and families. The villa also boasts two kitchen areas – the guest’s kitchen alongside the living room and main dining area, as well as a professional kitchen for the villa’s chefs, who are eager to prepare delicious meals at guests’ requests.

The villa is fully staffed with separate quarters for the live-in manager, housekeepers, cooks and security staff – all on hand to satisfy your every whim, while maintaining space and privacy. Gili Gede is easily reached by Gili Getaway fast boat from Bali and from mainland Lombok via local outrigger boats. Book direct to arrange hassle-free transfers.

Villa Selalu is a haven of absolute privacy and tranquillity to enjoy as a couple or with family and friends. Whether you rent Villa Selalu as a couple or a group of 4, 6, 8, 10 or 12 people, the villa is exclusively yours during your stay. For more information, turn to page 49.

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Special Feature

PRINCESS CILINAYA OF NORTH LOMBOK North Lombok is celebrating its recovery by restoring the legends and traditions that make this beautiful part of Lombok unique. The regency recently launched its inaugural “Putri Cilinaya 2018 Contest” with participants competing to hold the title of Princess Cilinaya for the year. Similar to the famous Putri Mandalika (“Putri” means Princess) of Lombok’s south coast, Putri Cilinaya is the princess in a well-loved legend of North Lombok. The election of Putri Cilinaya is an attempt by the North Lombok regional

Hundreds of spectators attended the event and were entertained by traditional performances and parades by the beautifully dressed prospective princesses.

The story of Princess Cilinaya is well known to the North Lombok community and theatrical performances of the legend rival the Putri Mandalika colossal performance held at the Bau Nyale Winner of the title “Putri Cilinaya” was Panjar Wegi Muji Astuti, with Baiq Asri Dwi Festival in Mandalika each year. The event was held on 5 November in Utami as Runner Up 1, and Ni Nengah By reviving the legend, North Lombok Tanjung, and was organised by Raptcha Diana Sari as Runner Up 2. regency hopes to preserve the strong Event in collaboration with the North historical traditions of the region and Lombok Tourism and Culture Department, The girls will be ambassadors for North showcase the Putri Cilinaya legend to the Lombok in future cultural activities North Lombok District Government, and world. promoting North Lombok. Lombok Friendly. government to preserve traditional culture related to the legend of Putri Cilinaya whose story is historically linked to the coast of Tanjung Menangis in Anyar Village, Bayan District in North Lombok.

Special Faature

The Legend of Putri Cilinaya

According to the legend, there were once two kingdoms in Lombok: the Kingdom of Daha and the Kingdom of Keling. The kingdoms were ruled over by two siblings, with King Daha being the elder brother of King Keling.

There they stopped at an old Ketapang tree and prepared to kill Cilinaya. Hugging her child to her, Cilinaya declared: “Oh Lord! If my blood stinks like fish, then I am a child of ordinary people; but if my blood smells fragrant, I am of royal blood!” Upon hearing this message, the guards drew their daggers and stabbed Cilinaya to death.

The Kings were married but had not yet been blessed with children and so they decided to go and ask for this blessing at the top of Bukit Batu Keramas – a hill located between their two kingdoms. Upon reaching the top of the hill, King Keling began to pray and then vowed to God: “Oh God, if you bless your servant with a child, I will bring betel leaves to you in this place!” King Daha laughed at this vow and said: “Is that all you offer, brother? Do you think God will grant your request with just that offering?” “I don’t know,” replied King Keling. “What is important is that I convey my vow with sincere intention.” Next it was the turn of King Daha and, desperately wanting to have a child, his vow was much bigger. “Oh God, if you give your slave a child, I will bring you offerings of a cow wrapped in silk, with gold horns and silver hooves!” he declared. After making their vows, the Kings returned to their kingdoms and, after a month, the happy news came that both of their wives were pregnant. Some months later, King Keling’s wife gave birth to a handsome son a few days before King Daha’s wife bore him a beautiful baby girl. A short while later, King Daha and King Keling travelled together with their wives and children and servants back to Bukit Batu Keramas to make good their vows. Filled with gratitude, King Keling paid dues greater than he had promised, bringing with him a cow wrapped in silk with gold horns and silver hooves. Whereas, King Daha made a much smaller offering, bringing with him only one normal cow. According to the beliefs of the people, this was taboo and could bring great disasters upon the king. On the way home, coming down the hill, King Daha and his entourage were suddenly trapped by a whirlwind. The wind swirled wildly and lifted up his baby daughter, carrying the princess far away.

Hearing this, the palace guards seized Cilinaya, who had just given birth to a son, and carried them both to Tanjung Menangis Beach.

As she lay bleeding with her child held in her arms, they all noticed the fragrant smell spreading from her body and immediately felt regret at killing a princess. They returned to the palace to tell the King what had happened.

Finally the wind relented and dropped the princess, who fell into a park by the lake. A pair of gardeners, Pak Bangkol and Ibu Bangkol, discovered her there and took the baby to be their own, naming her Cilinaya. Cilinaya grew up to be a beautiful and talented girl, skilled in weaving, cooking and flower arranging. One day, after finishing weaving, Cilinaya went to play in the park, where she met a handsome young man who was passing through the area. The young man was King Keling’s son, named Raden Panji. Raden Panji stayed with Cilinaya and eventually, the couple fell in love and got married. After a long time at Pak Bangkol’s house, Raden Panji returned to Keling Kingdom to introduce Cilinaya to his parents. Arriving at the palace, Prince Raden told his parents all about Cilinaya and announced that she was pregnant with his child. Hearing this, King Keling was very disappointed because his son had married a commoner whose parents were humble gardeners. He was angry that his son had crushed the good name of Keling Kingdom but kept his feelings to himself. One day King Keling pretended to be ill and asked his son to go to the forest to get a deer’s heart to heal him. As soon as his son had gone, the King ordered his guards to kill Cilinaya. “Get rid of Prince Raden’s wife,” he ordered. “I don’t want the good name of my palace to be ruined by having a common daughter-in-law!”

Meanwhile, Raden Panji and his bodyguards passed by the area and heard the baby’s cries. Finding the baby and the body of his wife, Raden wept tears of shock and loss. Suddenly, there was booming thunder and a voice from the sky said: “Raden Panji, make a box for your wife and float her out to sea. By the power of God, you will meet again!” Hearing this voice, Raden Panji ordered his bodyguards to make a box and put his wife’s body in the chest, before drifting it out to sea. Clutching his son, who he named Raden Megatsih, to his chest, he returned to the palace. Meanwhile elsewhere, the wife of King Daha was bathing by the sea when she saw a box floating on the waves. She called to her guards to retrieve the box. Opening the box, King Daha’s wife was shocked to see a beautiful girl lying inside. The girl was none other than Cilinaya, who lived again, and so the Queen took her to live at her palace and raised her as her child. A few years later, King Daha held a cockfighting contest at his palace. King Daha had a tough rooster that had never been defeated. Boldly, the King was willing to wager half his wealth on his rooster and so people came from near and far, bringing their roosters to compete – including Raden Megatsih, who was grown up by now and had his own powerful rooster ready to fight.

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Special Feature

PERANG TOPAT… The Rice War! Officials at the event spoke about the importance of Perang Topat as an enduring tradition which celebrates the unity of people, without race or other differences, and the ancient bonds between Sasak and Balinese, Muslim and Hindu.

Thousands of people attended Lombok’s unique “Perang Topat” held on Thursday, 22 November at historic Lingsar Temple in West Lombok. “Perang” means war and “Topat” are small parcels of rice, which are wrapped in woven coconut leaves and boiled – a delicious local alternative to boiled rice. In this friendly war, Hindus and Muslims stage a mock battle, hurling the topat at each other amidst much fun and laughter. Built around 1759 and renovated in 1874, Pura Lingsar is located about 10 km northwest of Mataram and is renowned for its unique temple complexes.

The temple was built during the reign of the King Anak Agung Ngurah Karangasem – a descendent of the kings of Karangasem from Bali, who once ruled this part of Lombok. Lingsar Temple is the only temple on Lombok where Hindus and Muslims gather to worship and pray together, and the ritual of “Perang Topat” is celebrated nowhere else in the world.

The ceremony starts with an elaborate parade – flowers, fruits, rice cakes and offerings of all colours and varieties are carried in colourful towers on the heads of the women, who are dressed in beautiful coloured kebayak (traditional lace blouses) and fine sarongs.

The temple is considered sacred by both religions and is a historical symbol of tolerance between different cultures and beliefs. It has been associated with fertility for centuries and is an important link to the island’s animist roots. The ritual of Perang Topat has been performed at Lingsar Temple every year on the full moon in the seventh month of the Sasak calendar for hundreds of years, in a tradition that is passed down through the generations.

The ritual includes prayers and chanting, and traditional music and dancing, after which the offerings are carried in a circle three times around the Kemaliq and then

Special Feature

blessed by temple priests. Together, the people pray for fertility and prosperity, for good rains and a bountiful harvest, both literally and spiritually. As the procession continues, thousands of local residents and visitors wait in the Kemaliq yard for the topat to be distributed. The battle begins at 4 pm, a time known in Sasak community as rarak kembang waru (when the flowers of the hibiscus trees begin to fall).

The serious part of the ritual over, the event then concludes with the mock rice war: Perang Topat. Tall bamboo poles with the woven rice parcels tied to them are shaken and the topat that fall are gleefully grabbed by the crowd. Offerings are raided and others pull hidden topat from their clothes. Two

sides are drawn as everyone, adults and children alike, starts throwing the topat at each other.

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a hilarious sight, seeing everyone throwing the topat as far as they can into the opposing crowd and then scrabbling on the ground to snatch up the fallen topat, before someone else can grab it. The air is filled with good-natured yells and laughter and, after the solemnity of the holy ritual, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a good way to release

the tension and bring the community together in a fun way. The community believes ketupat thrown at each other can bring blessings. After the battle, they snatch the topat to plant in the rice fields, following local farmersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; belief that it makes the land more fertile. Some hang them on the plank or roof of the house, believing that the ketupat bring prosperity and wealth to the household members.

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4000 COPIES DISTRIBUTED EVERY TWO WEEKS AT: BLUE BIRD TAXI: Exclusively available in every Blue Bird Taxi in Lombok. AIRPORT: LIA Tourist Information Board, Lombok Baru Taxi, Kotama Taxi, Golden Bird Travel, Trec, BLT Travel and every counters outside International Lombok Airport. MATARAM: Autore, Lombok Epicentrum Mall (Ace Hardware, Burger King, Bread Talk, Cinema XXI, Excelso, Food Centrum, Front Desk, Hypermart, Informa, J.Co, Joli Sourire, KFC, Maxx Coffee, Mokko Factory, My Kopi-O, Omah Cobek, Paris Castle, Pizza Pazza, Quali, Solaria, Starbucks Coffee, The Vinette, XO Suki), Lombok Plaza, Mataram Mall (Delicio Café, McDonalds, Mokko Factory, Oceanic Café), Toko Susana. KUTA: Bombora Bungalows, Discovery Coffee House, El Bazar, Kemangi Bar & Kitchen, KRNK, Kuta Bay Homestay, Kuta Heights, Kuta Indah Hotel, Mimpi Manis Homestay, Novotel, Nuggets Corner, Puri Rinjani, Sekar Kuning / Yellow Flower, The Chili Cafe, Warung Bule. SENGGIGI: Anna’s Giftshop, Aruna Senggigi Hotel, Asmara Restaurant, Café Alberto, Cafe Lombi, Island Properties Lombok, Living Asia, Lotus Bayview Restaurant, Orchid Spa, Pasta Pojok, Puri Bunga Cottages, Puri Mas Boutique Hotel, Qunci Villas, Senggigi Jaya Abadi Supermarket, Sheraton, Square Restaurant, Temptations, The Chandi, The Cowshed, The Office. GILI T: Blue Marlin Dive, Desa Dunia Beda, Gili Divers, Gili Eco Trust, Gili Getaway, Gili T Resort, Kayu Cafe, Karma Kayak, Oceano Resort, Pearl Beach Lounge, Pesona Resort, Manta Dive, Scallywags, The Beach House, The Trawangan, Tir Na Nog, Trawangan Dive,Villa Ombak. GILI AIR: Scallywags, Sunrise Gili Air. SOUTH LOMBOK: ko-ko-mo Gili Gede, Novotel Resort, Sempiak Villas BALI: • SANUR: Air Bali, Bakfickan Bar & Rest, Bali Wake Park, Batu Jimbar Restaurant, Blue Café, Blue Water Express, Bounty Cruise, Patagonia Express, Coffee Bali House Sanur, Fire Station Restaurant, Jalapeno Rest Sanur, Lila Pantai Sanur, Massimo Italian Restaurant, Soul In A Bowl, Stiff Chilli, Tratoria Restaurant, Two Fish Drivers. • KUTA / SIMPANG SIUR: BIMC, Cocoon Spa, Dijon, Gloria Jean Coffee 1, PT Indo Ned, Reborn Salon, Rejuvie Salon, SOS Clinic. • KUTA: Aryaduta Hotel, Henry's Bar & Grill, Club Havana, Mamas Restaurant, Samudera Bar & Restaurant, Tourist Information, Tourist Information Matahari Square. • LEGIAN: Bale Bali Restaurant,Bali Deli,Cafe Marzano,Café Moka,Chez Gado-Gado,Grain Bali,King Kebab Restaurant, Nero Bali Bar & Restaurant, Pantarei Restaurant, Souq Restaurant,Warung Italia,Warung Jerami, Warung Ocha,Y Sports Bar Bali, Zanzibar Restaurant, Jari Menari. • PETITENGET: Taco Casa Restaurant, Living Stone Bakery, Bambu Restaurant, Kynd Community Restaurant, Warung Sulawesi, Gourmet Café. • LAKSMANA / OBEROI: The Daily Coffee Kitchen, Blow Bar Bali, Café Bali, Char - Char Bar & Grill, Corner House Restaurant, Happy Chappy Restaurant, Grocer & Grind, Junction Bar and Rest, Kunis Japanese Restaurant, Mamasan Restaurant, Monsieur Spoon Laksmana, Motel Mexicola, Red Carpet, Soho Restaurant, Ultimo Italian Restaurant. • MERTANADI: Daily Grind, Som Chai Restaurant, L'Assiette Restaurant • UMALAS / BATU BELIG: Rustica Cucina Italiana, Hog Wild Restaurant, Monsieur Spoon Restaurant, My Warung Batu Belig, Bow Restaurant, Spoiled Hairdresser, Habitual Quench & Feed, Nook Warung. • CANGGU: Bungalow Living Café, Finn's Recreation Club, Canggu Station, Echo Beach Rest, Old Mans, Peloton Restaurant, The Plumbers Arms, Warung Gouthe, The Savage Kitchen. SPECIAL THANKS TO OUR CONTRIBUTORS: Barbara Kathleen, Asriel Haryadi, Dian Cahyadi, Didik Hariadi, Iwan Haryanto, Nanang Wirawan Printed by PT Temprina Media Grafika, Denpasar, Bali

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Copyright © 2007 – 2018. We have spent years travelling all over Lombok, documenting, photographing and updating. If you want to write about Lombok, we suggest you do the same! All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, reproduced or transmitted in any form (electronically, print or otherwise) without prior written permission from the Publisher. Opinions expressed in The Lombok Guide are those of the author and not necessarily the Publisher. We reserve the right to refuse advertising or articles at the Publisher’s discretion. While all care is taken to avoid copyright infringements, The Lombok Guide will not be held responsible for images or text directly supplied by advertisers and/or contributors. Tired after a day of mischief

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Tourism Information

USEFUL CONTACTS EMERGENCY SERVICES Senggigi Police (POLSEK Senggigi): Jl Raya Senggigi. Phone: 0370 693267 | 632733 Lombok Police (POLDA NTB): Jl Gajah Mada 7, Mataram. Ph: 0370 693110. Emergency No: 110 Fire Brigade: Phone: 0370 672013. Emergency No: 113 State Hospital UGD (Emergency Unit Service): Phone: 0370 622254 Ambulance: Phone: 0370 623489. Emergency No: 118 Emergency Rescue (RSU Mataram) Ph: 0370 620009. HOSPITALS (Rumah Sakit) Rumah Sakit Harapan Keluarga Jl Ahmad Yani 9, Selagalas. Ph: 0370 670000 | 6177000. Emergency (24hrs): 6177009. Mataram Public Hospital (Rumah Sakit Umum Mataram) Jl Pejanggik No 6, Mataram Phone: 0370 6660224 | 638464 New NTB Province Public Hospital (Rumah Sakit Umum Propinsi) Jalan Prabu Rangkasari, Dasan Cermen Phone: 0370 7502424 Central Lombok Public Hospital (Rumah Sakit Umum Praya) Jl H Lalu Hasyim, Tiwugalih, Praya. Phone: 0370 6635050 East Lombok Public Hospital (Rumah Sakit Umum Dr R Sudjono) Jl Professor M Yamin No 55, Selong, East Lombok. Phone: 0376 21599 Biomedika Hospital Jl Bung Karno 143, Mataram. Phone: 0370 645137 Risa Sentra Medika Hospital Jl Pejanggik 115, Cakranegara. Phone: 0370 625560 | 632117 DENTISTS (Dr Gigi) Drg. Farida Istiarini, Sp.Ort (Joli Sourire Dental Care) 1st Floor at Lombok Epicentrum Mall. Jl Sriwijaya, Mataram. Ph: 0878 6490 1535 Drg.Yuanita Jl Sriwijaya (opposite Kura-Kura Waterpark). Ph: 0812 3763 156 Drg. Mumu Jl Bung Hatta 14, Mataram. Ph: 0853 3730 7008 VETS (Dr Hewan) / PET CARE Dr Wahyu (Nobel Petshop) Jl Sriwijaya (Nex t to Town Palace). Ph: 0370 6160300 Dr. I Gede Sudiana (FB: lombokanimalrescue) Jl Sadewa 9, Cakra. Ph: 0878 6585 6260 Dr. Ajus. Ph: 0878 6441 3232 Dr.Yoses Kristianto (DC Petshop) Jl Saleh Sungkar, Ampenan. Ph: 0819 99831337 Dr Dwi. Ph: 0819 99831337 Dr Irfan. Ph: 0817 579 0834 Dr Nurul (Kuta). Ph: 0818 0366 2612 TAXI Blue Bird Taxi, Ph: 0370 627000

AIRPORT BUS / DAMRI Senggigi / Mataram, Ph: 370 642947 | 0878 6475 5513 | 0813 9862 4975 IMMIGRATION Jl Udayana, Mataram, Ph: 0370 632520 PUBLIC SERVICES ELECTRICITY PLN Mataram. Ph: 0370 643123 PLN Senggigi. Ph: 0370 693535 WATER PDAM Mataram. Ph: 0370 632510 PDAM Senggigi. Ph: 0370 693886 TELKOM (Phone/Internet). Ph: 0370 147 Directory Assistance (Lombok Phone Numbers): Ph. 0370 108 POST OFFICES (Kantor Pos) Mataram Jl Sriwijaya. Ph: 0370 632645 Senggigi Jl Raya Senggigi. Ph: 0370 693711 CONSULATES AUSTRALIA Phone: 0361 2000100. Emergency: +61 26261 3305. Email: Bali.congen@dfat.gov.au BELGIUM Phone: 0343 740274. Emergency: 021 3162030. Email: Stefaan.vancolen@st-group.com BRAZIL Phone: 0361 8446530. Emergency: 0821 44440018. Email: renato@bythesea.co.id BRITAIN Phone: 021 23565200. Emergency: 0811 8860053. Email: Consulate.Bali@fco.gov.uk CHILE Phone: 0361 281 501. Emergency: 021 252 1981. Email: chilehonconsulate@bali-villa.com CHINA Phone: 0361 239001. Emergency: 0361 239902 / 081239169767. Email: chinaconsul_dps_id@mfa.gov.cn CZECH REPUBLIC Phone: 0361 286465. Emergency: 0812 3970129. Email: bali@honorary.mzv.cz DENMARK & NORWAY Phone: 085 100 21 6979. Emergency: 021 576 1487 / +45 3392 00 00. Email: danishconsbali@ gmail.com ESTONIA Phone: 021 70 82 8803. Emergency: 0811 987111. Email: bharat@consul-estonia.or.id FINLAND & SWEDEN Phone: 0361 282223. Emergency: 0817 9723658. Email: finnishconsulatebali@yahoo.com FRANCE Phone: 0361 9345862. Emergency: 021 23557600. Email: consul@dps.centrin.net.id GERMANY Phone: 0361-288535. Emergency: 0812 3913938. Email: sanur@hk-diplo.de HUNGARY 0361 425924. Emergency: 081 2385 3781 / 082 144 933 506. Email: hubaliconsul@gmail.com

INDIA Ph. 0361 259502/3. Emergency: 08113976388. Email: cg.bali@mea.gov.in / cgsecy@gmail.com ITALY Phone: 0361 701005. Emergency: 0361 701005. Email: italconsbali@italconsbali.org JAPAN Phone: 0361 227628. Emergency: 0361 227628. Email: sokhibi@dp.mofa.go.jp / denpasar@ dp.mofa.go.jp MALAYSIA Phone: 081 237 154050 / 081 238 568 351. Email: balihcmalaysia@gmail.com MEXICO Phone: 0361 223266, 0361 245828. Emergency: 0361 288218 / 081 139 9929. Email: yudhara@ astinatravel.com / consulmex@astinatravel.com NEW ZEALAND Phone: 0361 8446456. Emergency: 0819 99477552 / 085 737 223000. Email: indy. honcondibali@gmail.com NORWAY Phone: 0361 282223. Emergency: 0817 9723658. Email: norwegianconsulatebali@yahoo.com POLAND Phone: 0361 263967 / 081 238 78324. Emergency: 0811 389449. Email: iblolec@ pacificworld.com PORTUGAL Phone: 0361 975736. Emergency: 0813 38189313. Email: arief@indobamboo.com RUSSIA Phone: 0851 00791560. Emergency: 021 5222912. Email: bali@russiaconsul.com / rusconsulbali@gmail.com SLOVAK REPUBLIC Phone: 0361 9005583. Emergency: 0811810680. Email: konsulslowakbali@yahoo.com SOUTH AFRICA Phone: 0361 751223. Emergency: 0857 39114748. Email: bagus.sudibya@bagusdiscovery.com SPAIN Phone: 021 3142355. Emergency: 081 38004 1258. Email: juan.manglano@maec.es SRI LANKA Phone: 0361 726200. Emergency: 0361 728483 / 081 238 01063. Email: citrabaliide@yahoo. co.id SWEDEN Phone: 0361 282223. Emergency: 0817 9723658. Email: sweconsul@yahoo.com SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA Phone: 0361 264149. Emergency: 0811 3850041. Email: bali@honrep.ch THAILAND Phone: 0361 249461. Emergency: 021 29328190. Email: rtcdps@yahoo.com TIMUR LESTE Phone: 0361 4722099. Emergency: 081 338 556373 / 081 557 02399 / 081 236 55988. Email: cgtl@dpsbali.com TUNISIA Phone: 0361 242659. Emergency: 021 52892328. Email: tunisconsulbali@popodanes.org / popo@popodanes.com THE NETHERLANDS Phone: 0361 761502. Emergency: 0818 789444 / 081 55 666 7777. Email: dutchconsulate@ kcbtours.com USA Ph: 0361 233605. Emergency: 081 112 44220 / 081 133 4183. Email: CABali@state.gov

Tourism Information

THE CITIES

for Lombok and Sumbawa (NTB Province), with government offices, banks, mosques, schools and colleges, bookstores, the main post office, and Mataram University downtown.

The three main cities in Lombok – Ampenan, Mataram and Cakranegara – have expanded over the years and now merge together to create what is, for Lombok, an urban sprawl of shops, administrative centres and residential areas. A visit to the cities makes an interesting day trip, exploring the numerous shops selling everything imaginable from everyday items to gold and pearls. There are many pearl shops in Ampenan and the nearby village of Sekarbela that sell unset pearls and pearl jewellery at attractive prices. These are genuine pearls – some cheap quality from China and more expensive ones farmed in Lombok and Sumbawa. If you bargain the price, you can usually get a good deal. There are gold shops in both Ampenan and Cakra, with 24 kt gold being sold by the gram at market price. For cheap and interesting food choices, explore the many restaurants, warung (local cafés) and food stalls in the cities. Or just wander around the streets to soak up the atmosphere and discover fascinating insights into Lombok city life! Ampenan was the original port in Lombok during Dutch colonial times and some of the old architecture is still visible around the town, particularly toward the beach to the west, where the remnants of the port are slipping into the sea. The streets become a market at night, filled with warung and kaki lima (food carts) for cheap, tasty food and local flavour. Kebun Roek, just near the traffic lights in Ampenan on the road from the old Selaparang airport, is the site of the local markets. Every day traders set up stalls selling fresh produce from around the island, local snacks and products, live chickens and fresh fish in the afternoon when the fishing boats come in. A stroll through the markets is a pungent and enlightening experience! Mataram, about 3 km to the east of Ampenan, is the administrative centre

In Mataram, the Nusa Tenggara Barat Museum houses historical and cultural artefacts from Lombok and Sumbawa. It’s an interesting place to visit and occasionally hosts special exhibits. Displays include exhibits on geology, history and culture. Address: Jl Panji Tilar. Ph: 632159 for opening times. There is a small admission fee. Also worth visiting is the cultural centre, Taman Budaya on Jl Majapahit. Music and dance performances are presented here regularly. Phone: 622428 for details. Cakranegara (usually abbreviated to “Cakra”) is Lombok’s main shopping area. It is also home to many Chinese and Balinese, who make up over 50 percent of the city’s population. The streets of the city make an interesting walk with gold shops, sporting goods, clothing and fabric stores selling imported silks, laces and cottons, to name a few. There is a local market at the main intersection in Cakra; turn right at the traffic lights and look for the entrance to the market on the left. Inside is a labyrinth of stalls selling everything from woven baskets to fresh flowers and local food.

45 Store, as well as a Cinema XXI Movie Theatre and Timezone Entertainment Centre. There is a well-stocked Ace Hardware store, an Informa furniture store, and several pharmacies. Other retailers sell a wide variety of fashion, shoes, electronics, sporting goods, and much more. There are many food outlets and cafés, as well as Burger King, KFC, Bread Talk, J. Co, Starbucks, Excelso, and more. The older Mataram Mall on Jl Pejanggik is a more low key shopping centre with a Hero Supermarket, Tiara Department Store, McDonalds and KFC outlets, electronics and home ware stores, and a good selection of specialty shops. Nearby Temples and Places of Interest Pura Meru on Jl Selaparang, Cakranegara, was built in 1720 by Balinese Prince Anak Agung Made Karang and is the largest temple on Lombok. Its three meru are for the Hindu trinity – Shiva,Vishnu and Brahma. This is an important temple for the Balinese here and its annual Pujawali festival, held over five days during the full moon in September or October, is the biggest Balinese Hindu event on Lombok. The outer courtyard hall has large drums used to announce ceremonies and festivals. In the central courtyard are two buildings with raised offering platforms. The interior enclosure has 33 shrines as well as the three multi-tiered meru. The caretaker will meet you and give you a sash to wear in the temple. Please sign the guestbook and give a donation.

The next large town east of Cakra is Sweta. The Bertais Bus Terminal is located here for connections to the east of the island and beyond. Near the bus terminal there is a huge local market every day with all kinds of goods on sale, from foodstuffs to clothing, exotic birds, handicrafts and more.

Pura Mayura, just across the street from Pura Meru, was built in 1744 as the court temple of the last Balinese kings in Lombok. An open hall or bale kambang (floating pavilion) stands in the middle of a large artificial lake here and an interesting temple is sheltered under huge old trees at the rear of the lake.

Shopping

The gardens and the adjoining Pura Jagatnatha temple complex are a peaceful place to escape the bustle of the city and well worth exploring.

Lombok Epicentrum Mall on Jl Sriwijaya (see cities map) is Lombok’s most modern shopping centre with four floors of retail outlets. The complex houses a Hypermart Supermarket and a Matahari Department

Taman Mayura is open every day, from 8am to 8pm; admission is Rp 5000 per person. The gardens are popular on weekends so the best time to visit is during the weekdays.

Tourism Information

The Cities

Tourism Information

The Southwest

Southwest Lombok by Asriel Haryadi

Far from the earthquake zones in the north, Southwest Lombok feels like it exists in another time and place. The Southwest consists of long meandering coastlines of pristine white sand beaches with thirteen small islands - the Southwest Gilis floating in the sparkling turquoise waters just offshore. Unlike the famous ‘Gili Islands’ in northwest Lombok, the Southwest Gilis are largely uninhabited and have yet to be discovered by most travellers... that’s why we call them ‘The Secret Gilis’! The big island of Gili Gede is rapidly becoming the hub for tourism in the Southwest and, with a range of accommodation and facilities, it’s a good base for island hopping and exploring the area. The picturesque Southwest region starts at Sekotong, just south of Lembar Harbour, and features stunning beaches and bays set against a backdrop of rolling green hills.

The drive down the southwest coast is an enjoyable trip, meandering through villages where life is largely untouched by tourism and where the people are involved in their day-to-day activities of farming, fish cultivation, boating and fishing, brickmaking and other traditional pastimes. The peaceful village of Taun (or Tawun), is situated on a wide, placid bay in Sekotong. The ocean is sparkling turquoise and the dazzling white sand stretches in a wide sweep around the bay. Just out in the calm bay are the three lovely islands of Gili Nanggu, Gili Tangkong and Gili Sudat (and the tiny island of Gili Kedis) – all easily accessible by local outrigger boats. A small sign in the nearby village will direct you to the local boat hire area, where you can arrange boat trips out to Gili Nanggu and the other islands. Accommodation at Taun has grown over the past few years and there are now

a few small hotels and home stays on the bay. It’s easy to base yourself on the mainland and take boat trips to explore all the southwest islands from here. Gili Nanggu has accommodation for visitors, with simple cottages on the beach and a restaurant. The island is small and the beach has soft white sand and a good reef just offshore for snorkelling. There is also simple accommodation on Gili Sudat (the island closest to the mainland). Back on the main road and slightly further south is the turn off for Cocotinos Boutique Beach Resort, set on the secluded beach at Tanjung Empat. With 28 rooms, including beachfront villas with private swimming pools, Cocotinos is the only upmarket accommodation on the mainland. Travelling a little further south, before the marine culture complex (Balai Budaya Laut), there is a small dirt road leading out onto a white peninsular of sand that juts into beautiful clear waters. Drive to the end for superb views and a close up look at Gili Genting. Gili Genting sits just off the tip of the peninsular and at low tide you can walk across the sandbar and explore this uninhabited island. Old volcanic rocks and stone carved from centuries of tidal flow create small caves and alcoves, providing shelter for picnics and interesting nooks and crannies to explore. Continued on Page 50

The Southwest

VILLA SELALU Gili Gede, Lombok

A private, luxury hilltop retreat on Gili Gede with 360 degree uninterrupted views of a truly unique and untouched part of the world. Villa Selalu offers four king size bedrooms with marble ensuites and can comfortably accommodate up to 12 guests. *private white sand beach *18m infinity pool *hillside BBQ pavilion *private entertainment room *WIFI *spacious open plan living *fully air conditioned *satellite tvâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in bedrooms *commercial kitchen *fully catered *hillside breakfast berugak *bespoke furnishings and amenities *beach lounges *dedicated manager and staff *boat house *bikes *snorkelling equipment, kayaks, stand-up paddle-boards Whether booking one bedroom as a couple or two or more bedrooms as a group, enjoy exclusive access to the entire villa. For all enquiries: villaselalubookings@gmail.com +62 812 3961 6327 I +61 411 031 607 www.villaselalugiligede.com Visit our BRAND NEW beach box cafĂŠ, Gili Gede during your stay.

Tourism Information

50 Continued from Page 48

Gili Layar

Further south you will come to the only petrol station along the south coastal road at Tembowong Village. Nearby is the site for catching boats out to Gili Gede, only a few minutes across the water. Gili Gede: The largest of the islands in the area is Gili Gede, appropriately meaning ‘Big Island’. The island lays just offshore and is so large visitors often mistake it for part of the mainland. Gili Gede is developing as the main hub for the Southwest Gilis as is one of the few islands in the area that has a choice of accommodation, making it an ideal base for exploring the other nearby islands. The luxurious ko - ko - mo Gili Gede Resort, which opened in February 2016, is the sister resort to ko - ko - mo Resort on Gili Trawangan. The stylish all villa resort, comprising fifteen 1 and 2 bedroom villas with private swimming pools, and one bedroom Villa Kecil (small villas), is spread out over spacious grounds on a pristine beachfront.

Guests at the restaurant can enjoy upmarket dining with a menu prepared from fresh locally-sourced seafood, imported Australian meats and in-house breads and bakery items. There is also an outstanding wine and drinks list. ko - ko - mo has a purpose-built jetty at the front of the resort and operate their own fast boat service – ‘Gili Getaway’ – making Gili Gede easily accessible, even for a day trip.

Villa Selalu has a private beachfront and a boathouse equipped with snorkelling gear, sea kayaks, paddle boards and bikes to make the most of your holiday. Individual rooms are available or rent the villa in entirety for the ultimate island escape! At the other end of the scale, there are a few small cottages and home stays on the island with simple accommodation for budget travellers. Thamarind Resort is a family-run resort with reasonably priced accommodation on the beachfront in comfortable rooms or individual bungalows, including a spacious family bungalow.

Ideal for a low-key and relaxing holiday on the beach, the resort has private beach area and a restaurant with lovely views serving Indonesian and western meals. The friendly Perched on the hilltop just to the north of staff at Thamarind can organise a range of ko - ko – mo is Villa Selalu, a private luxury activities for all ages and interests. All modern comforts such as air retreat that enjoys outstanding 360º views The nearby Ultimate Gili Gede Dive conditioning and ceiling fans, flat screen of the stunning surroundings. Resort Gil is geared for travellers who televisions with satellite channels and The fully serviced 4 bedroom villa boasts are looking for fun and adventure, with DVD, WiFi, fresh (not salt) hot water, unparalleled luxury with all mod cons a range of activities including diving the plentiful power points for charging devices, and ultra chic furnishings. Guests can Southwest Gilis and surfing trips to nearby and more are provided in each villa. enjoy a number of indoor and outdoor Desert Point – a world famous surf Facilities at the resort include a tennis living areas, as well as an 18m infinity pool location. court, a putting green, a small gym, a overlooking the ocean surrounded by a The resort offers 4 beach bungalows and resort swimming pool and purpose-built spacious deck, BBQ area and lounging Spa facility and a beachfront restaurant. a 3 bedroom villa for families and friends pavilion.

Gili Asahan

Tourism Information sharing. On the hillside above the resort is Villa Vista – a spacious and fully-serviced private 4 bedroom villa, which shares all the resort facilities and boasts a swimming pool and stunning views across the ocean.

51 Gili Ringgit and Gili Asahan. Bright blue starfish drape themselves across patches of coral, and bright yellow and black Moorish Idols dart through the water. Schools of hundreds of small iridescent fish swim past and weirdly shaped squid drift by in the deeper areas.

Both resorts provide meals and can arrange transfers, boat trips, island hopping and snorkelling around the islands. There is simple accommodation on Gili Layar and a restaurant serving fresh juices, Gili Gede is large enough to provide a beers and tasty meals. range of activities such as hiking to the hills in the centre for fantastic views across the other islands, exploring deserted beaches and hidden coves, and meeting the people living on the island, who are very friendly and, as yet, unspoilt by tourism. To the south of Gili Gede, the islands of Gili Ringgit, Layar and Asahan are lined up like secret treasures in the calm sea.

Slightly further south, beautiful Gili Asahan attracts visitors with its deserted white Bounty Cruises, a Bali based company, own sand beaches, clear calm waters and a large parcel of land on Gili Ringgit and swaying palm trees. have constructed a boat mooring and pier on the island. There is good snorkelling on Gili Asahan Eco Lodge and Pearl Beach Resort both offer comfortable the west side of Gili Ringgit, accessed by accommodation options on the island. boat. Leaving Gili Asahan and back on the Large gardens of hard and soft corals mainland, continue south on the lay just beneath the surface and the reef coastal road until you come to a main extends along most of the island’s coast. intersection. On the other side of the island is where the pier is located, on a fantastic white A signpost to the left leads to the sand beach. spectacular large bay at Mekaki. The road It’s easy to snorkel offshore, just north of the pier and, although the reef isn’t as large as on the other side of the island, there is still plenty to see, and the scenery and beach are lovely. Many are astounded by the pristine conditions and huge schools of turtles seen near Gili Layar – the island between

The wide white sand bay is lined with fisherman’s huts and draws hundreds of surfers every year from as far away as Hawaii and Brazil to challenge the huge waves of Desert Point, just offshore. Although the road deteriorates after Labuhan Poh, it is still passable for most vehicles in the dry season. During the surfing season, from mid-May to September and again in December, the beach is buzzing with surfers, but otherwise it is a remote and peaceful area. Bali is clearly visible, with the island of Nusa Penida only about an hour’s sail away. The drive to the point is dotted with bucolic scenery and tiny villages, making it a worthwhile trip even for non-surfers. There is basic surfer accommodation in the area and plans for development in the near future. The dive sites of the Southwest reflect a good cross-section of what Indonesian diving has to offer. Dive in and be fascinated by turtles, white tip reef sharks, cuttlefish, moray eels and many other varieties of marine life. The reefs are full of colourful corals, which harbour an amazing variety of marine life, including ghost pipe fish, leaf fish, pygmy seahorses and much more.

to the right leads to Labuhan Poh and Pelangan.

For non-divers, the islands are a delight for snorkelling – abundant coral reefs lay just below the surface waiting to be explored, filled with thousands of brightly coloured tropical fish, huge sprawling blue starfish and magical turtles gently gliding through the water.

There are small home-stays and private accommodations spaced out along the road to Bangko-Bangko – known as Desert Point and the surfing Mecca for those in the know – located on the far southwest tip of Lombok.

It’s easy to imagine hotels and resorts on all these beaches and islands in the future but for now, the Southwest is unspoilt and the Gilis remain the secret islands… stunningly beautiful, pristine and unique, and visited only by the lucky few.

www.thelombokguide.com

Tourism Information

KUTA & THE

UBLIME OUTH COAST

Batu Payung by Didik Hariadi

At around 90km south and 3 - 4 hours drive from the earthquake affected zones in the north, Kuta and the south coast of Lombok was unaffected by the natural disaster in August 2018. If you are worried about travelling to Lombok, the south coast is far removed from the quake damage and boasts some of the most magnificent scenery in Indonesia! Tourists are drawn to the south for the stunning beaches and scenery, the laid back lifestyle, and almost year-round sunshine… as well as some of the best surf breaks in Indonesia! Kuta (sometimes spelt Kute) is the main town and tourism centre on the south coast of Lombok, and is the hub for exploring the fantastic southern beaches and the many places of interest in the region.

The proximity to the airport has sparked an investment boom in the area over the past couple of years and Kuta has blossomed, with many new hotels, restaurants and cafés catering to increased numbers of tourists. The proposed Mandalika Resort development, with its plans for luxury hotels, villas and supporting facilities on over 1000 hectares of prime beach land, will further transform the south coast in coming years. But for now, the south is still pristine and spectacular. The drive down to the south coast is an interesting rural tour through small villages and farming communities. Fields of tobacco, corn and peanuts line the

The Lombok International Airport (LIA) is the only commercial airport on Lombok and is located just 25 minutes’ drive north of Kuta , making access to the south very easy. Located around 60 km south of Mataram, and about one and a half hour’s drive from Senggigi, Kuta makes for a wonderful day trip from other points in Lombok, or an alternative holiday destination for travellers exploring Lombok. Major roads have been upgraded and the main road to Kuta is in very good condition.

Aura Lounge Selong Belanak

roadsides and farmers till the fields using antiquated ploughs pulled by large water buffalo. Just before arriving in Kuta, the road passes two traditional Sasak villages – Sade and Rambitan. On the east side of the road is Rambitan, a village that caters to tourists and has authentic clusters of thatched Lumbung, or rice barns, and traditional homes made of thatch and bamboo, with hardened cow and buffalo dung floors. Nearby, on the hilltop, is one of the oldest mosques in Lombok: Mesjid Kuno. The small building with a thatched roof is considered holy and many believers make pilgrimages to pray here. Continued on Page 56

Kuta and The South Coast

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Kuta and The South Coast

Luxurious Escapes...

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Tourism Information

56 Continued from Page 53

surf lessons and surfboard hire and more. There are several mini-markets in the town selling drinks, snacks, toiletries and other daily needs, as well as ATM facilities, tour agencies and more. At present, Kuta boasts just one luxury resort: the Novotel Lombok. The Novotel has a range of accommodation, from comfortable hotel rooms to spacious suites and luxurious villas, some with private swimming pools. Designed to blend in with the environment, the unique style of the buildings at the Novotel are a wonderful example of traditional Sasak architecture.

El Bazar

Slightly further south is Sade, another hilltop village with more Lumbung and traditional homes.

are springing up in the area. These offer a range of choices – Mediterranean, Japanese, vegan and gluten free, nouvelle cuisine, home-made cakes and breads – diners are spoilt for choice!

The Novotel occupies a privileged location on the scenic beachfront at Mandalika with a long white sand beach and lovely views across the bay. There is a resort swimming pool and a bar

These days, there is a good variety of accommodation to suit all budgets and tastes, from simple and cheap hotels to luxurious villas with private swimming pools.

Among our favourites are El Bazar for on trend cuisine and healthy choices, Milk Espresso for delicious breakfasts, laid back all day dining and great cocktail hours, and Palate Café for cool vibes, good food and top notch live music in the evenings.

overlooking the beach (happy hours in the late afternoon are popular even with nonstaying guests).

As with accommodation options, new restaurants, coffee shops and eateries

Kuta offers a full range of tourist facilities from motorbike hire, car rental and tours,

Both villages have been renovated and cater to the tourist market, but there are still interesting examples of traditional Sasak architecture and communal living within the compounds, where life continues as it has for centuries. Residents, who act as guides for a small fee, encourage walks through either of these villages and are happy to share a glimpse of their lifestyles with visitors. Kuta itself is a town on the move that is evolving quickly. In the past, it offered mainly low budget hotels catering to the thousands of surfers from around the world who are drawn to the area every year.

There is also an upmarket Spa and two restaurants at the resort, which hosts a good variety of theme dinners with traditional entertainment during the week. Kuta attracts thousands of visitors every year for the great surf locations at Gerupuk, Ekas and the beaches to the east. It’s easy to hire a board and a surf guide from here to learn surfing or, for experienced surfers, to access the more challenging surf breaks in the area. First-timers to Kuta can benefit from an orientation tour operated by British expat Gemma and her Balinese husband, Made, from Mimpi Manis Homestay in Kuta.

Selong Belanak Beach

The long-established guest house is popular with budget travelers not just for the good value accommodation, but also for the local knowledge the couple freely shares with anyone visiting Kuta. Continued on Page 58

Kuta and The South Coast

Tourism Information

58 Continued from Page 56

Kuta by DC

Are Guling is popular with surfers, with left and right hand reef breaks as well as a beach break for beginners. There are great views over the bay and to the small island of Gili Nusa just off-shore. Are Guling has a good amount of simple accommodation, mainly catering to surfers and a number of local cafĂŠs, including places on the beach. Mawun Beach is around 30 minutesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; drive to the west and is an almost circular bay with small green headlands rolling into the ocean from either side.

It is a spectacular beach with calm blue waters, perfect for swimming and spending a day lazing on the white sand. There are stalls on the beach selling drinks, snacks and simple meals. Mawi, around another 7km to the west, is for experienced surfers and has good right- and left-hand barrels for surfing when the swell is large enough. For non-surfers, if you can brave the treacherous road, it is a lovely beach surrounded by small hills, with impressive views; look for the three pinnacles of rock jutting out of the ocean.

Selong Belanak is a long sweeping bay framed on each end by headlands and surrounded by rolling hills. The beach is lovely for swimming and has good waves for body surfing, as well as being popular for beginners surfing lessons. There are many small stalls selling drinks and snacks, as well as offering surf lessons and surf board hire. Sempiak Villas has plush villas, some with private pools, perched on the hillside overlooking the bay with breath-taking panoramic views.

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Other tours can be arranged to take in your particular interests and Made also runs “Shore Thing” fishing trips and boat tours at reasonable rates.Visit their website for details: www.mimpimanis.com Otherwise, hire a car or motorbike and you can spend days visiting beautiful, mainly deserted beaches, both to the east and west of Kuta. Just east of Kuta is Seger Beach (sometimes called Mandalika Beach, after the legendary Princess Mandalika – a beloved character in Sasak folklore who is believed to have sacrificed herself for the good of her people from the rocks overlooking the beach).

Nyale Festival but nearby there is a lovely monument in the bay commemorating the Mandalika Legend.

climb to the top for lovely views and you can watch the surfers catching the waves offshore.

Tanjung Aan, around 5km east of Kuta, is a long picturesque beach with a wide sweep of white sand, perfect aquamarine water and shady trees on the shore.

On the far western end of the beach is Bukit Merese – a larger hill and a slightly tougher climb – but worth the effort for the fantastic views from the top. It is popular in the late afternoon, when everyone climbs up to see the spectacular sunsets.

There are a number of warung or beach cafés along the beach selling cold drinks and beer, as well as snacks and simple meals. One of the best is Warung Turtle. Guests are welcome to relax on the sun lounges on the beach in front of Warung Turtle and spend the day swimming in the calm waters. Dine on the beachfront or in the shade of the café. The fresh grilled fish and the Chicken in Red Sauce are both highly recommended.

It is here that thousands of people gather every year to celebrate the colourful ritual of Bau Nyale, when masses of sea worms spawn in the waters offshore.

The Warung has snorkeling equipment, surfboards and stand-up paddle boards for hire and the local owner, Herman, is a friendly host with a wealth of information to help make the most of your visit.

There are small stalls selling drinks and snacks to enjoy after taking a swim or a stroll to enjoy the views.

The water at Tanjung Aan is calm and clear, with a white sandy bottom making it fantastic for swimming. There are also perahu (local outrigger boats) available for hire, offering trips out of the bay to Batu Payung (an unusual shaped rock and local attraction) and to the nearby surf breaks.

The government has built a rather ugly building here to host the annual Bau

There is a small hill towards the east end with steps cut into the side. It’s an easy

There are great views from the beach and even better views if you climb the surrounding hills.

Further east of Tanjung Aan is Gerupuk – well known as a top surf location and situated on a peninsula of land that juts out into the ocean. The bay is used for lobster farming and is filled with local boats, which ferry avid surfers to no fewer than five surf breaks nearby. Gerupuk is also evolving and offers a range of simple accommodation and restaurants to cater to the growing tourist trade. The beaches and scenery continue all the way to the east coast, with fantastic places such as Bumbang, Awang Bay, Ekas and Pantai Sorga (Heaven Beach)… the name says it all! In the opposite direction, heading west from Kuta, are another series of beautiful beaches and bays hidden behind headlands and rolling hills, providing peaceful and secluded spots for picnics and swimming. All are within easy day trips of Kuta. Continued on Page 60

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Mawun Beach by Didik Hariadi

Laut Biru Restaurant and Bar at Sempiak Villas is a beautiful all-white venue right on the beachfront with lovely views. It is a popular place for a stop – and justifies a day trip in itself – serving fresh and delicious snacks and meals throughout the day in a pretty restaurant on the beach. There is also a serene Day Spa offering massages and beauty treatments.

the winding mountain road, the contemporary design creates a surprising contrast to the small traditional homes dotted on the hilltops. Perched high on the hilltop, Aura Lounge and Bar overlooks the terraced green valley across to the wide crescent of Selong Belanak Beach and beyond. It’s a breathtaking vista and one that has been attracting hundreds of guests since Aura opened. There are both covered and outdoor options for dining at comfortable tables and couches artfully arranged to take in the fabulous views. Guests can choose from a delicious assortment of all-day snacks and meals, or pull up a stool at the stylish bar and order an icy cold beer or signature cocktail.

Spend a day exploring the area, with lunch and a swim here as the highlights of your trip. In the Jabon hills behind Selong Belanak is the stunning Aura Lounge and Bar at Selong Selo Residences. Approaching via

Tanjung Aan Beach

The outdoor viewing deck overlooks a 23m infinity pool edged in white stone where guests can relax on sun lounges or float in the cool water with the illusion of flowing out into the blue of the bay beyond.

Further west of Selong Belanak are the picturesque bays of Sepi and Belongas, and many more scenic beaches along the way; all are mostly deserted. The road deteriorates rapidly and the going can be rough at times. For exploring this remote area it’s best to use an experienced local guide with a good vehicle. Steeped in history and legend, surrounded by beaches of almost surreal beauty, the south coast is a fascinating area to visit, whether your interests are historical, cultural or just the opportunity to see and explore some of the most beautiful and pristine coastal scenery in Indonesia.

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THE GILIS…

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Lombok’s Three Iconic Islands

Three perfect tropical islands – Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno and Gili Air – sit in the sparkling ocean just off the northwest coast of Lombok. The Gilis, together with Rinjani volcano, are Lombok’s most famous icons and are consistently rated among the top destinations in S E Asia by travellers and travel publications. Every year the Gilis attract tens of thousands of visitors from around the world for their pristine waters, great diving and laid-back charm. The word Gili actually means “small island” in the local dialect, and so these islands have come to be known as “The Gilis” by travellers. Today the Gilis attract a diverse range of visitors – serious diving enthusiasts, sun-seekers looking for the perfect beach getaway, singles, families, and couples of all ages find something to attract them to the Gilis.

accommodation, restaurants and bars, and tourist facilities on all three islands, with the biggest range on Gili Trawangan. While nobody comes to the Gilis for shopping, each island has many shops selling essentials such as sunscreen, mosquito repellent, toiletries, cold drinks, snacks and more. In addition, there are cheap clothing and t-shirts, sarongs and local handicrafts stalls. Activities include walking, riding bikes, horse riding and kayaking on Gili T, yoga, massage and beauty treatments, glass bottom boat trips and island hopping, liveaboard dive trips and cruises to nearby islands, fishing, sailing, surfing, SUP and all kinds of water-based activities.

There is a good selection of

The islands provide ample opportunities for visitors to swim, relax, sunbathe, explore, snorkel and scuba dive with the many internationally accredited dive operators based in Lombok. Snorkelling from the shore is easy from each of the Gilis and at specific dive locations around the three islands, the

pristine waters are home to an abundant variety of corals and thousands of species of tropical fish. An impressive array of aquatic life can be found here, including green and hawksbill turtles, moray eels, barracuda, reef sharks, and occasionally leopard sharks and manta rays, and more. Visibility is very good and commonly in the 15-30 m range; and water temperatures average 23°C (73°F) to 29°C (84°F).

Pearl of Trawangan GIli T

Many of the popular dive companies are owned and operated by westerners and are PADI and SSI licensed dive operators, with professional standards of safety and environmental awareness. Continued on Page 66

The GIlis

Tourism Information

66 Continued from Page 64

Gili Meno by Barbara

Each Gili has developed independently and at different paces, giving each island a different “personality” or style. This means that travellers have a good choice, depending on their individual tastes and what type of island escape they prefer. Gili Trawangan – affectionately abbreviated to ‘Gili T’ – is the most

easily reached from Bali in less than 2 hours and is only 10 minutes by speedboat from Lombok. Tagged “the party island”, Gili T continues to cater to the party crowd but also has a cosmopolitan vibe that becomes more evident every year. TripAdvisor® recently rated it as one of the ‘Top 10 Islands in Asia’. The island itself is around 3km long and 2km wide, so walking is easy and you can cycle around the island in around 1 ½ hours (but will need to get off and push your bike through sandy sections in the north).

developed and popular of the three Gilis, with the greatest range of facilities and activities. It is the largest island of the three and the furthest from the mainland, but is

This is the only Gili to rise significantly above sea level and the hill in the south is a great lookout from which to enjoy the spectacular sunsets across the ocean to Bali or the brilliant sunrise over Mt Rinjani on mainland Lombok. On the far south end of the hill are the remnants of old WWII Japanese gun emplacements and crumbling bunkers, but the hand-dug tunnels have been blocked up. The busiest area on Gili T is the east coast, but Gili T’s popularity means development extends around the entire island.

Accommodation on Gili T ranges from basic budget places to mid-range and luxury hotels and private villas, so there is something for everyone. Restaurants rival Bali in quality and choice, and there are beachside cafés galore. Dining choices range from fresh seafood and modern healthy fare to authentic Indian, Italian and other cuisines; and from inexpensive Indonesian dishes to sophisticated fine dining. Even the shopping scene on Gili T is starting to resemble nearby Bali and new shops are springing up almost monthly. Shops and kiosks selling the usual sarongs and t-shirts now rub shoulders with 69 Slam, Billabong, and other brand outlets, as well as stylish little boutiques. Continued on Page 69

The Gilis

YES - THE GILIS ARE OPEN SWING ON OVER!

Tourism Information

The Nest underwater sculpture Gili Meno

Continued from Page 66

beaches and laid back charm – all within easy reach of the diving and activities that have made the Gilis famous. If you base yourself on Gili Meno, it is easy to dive around the other islands and to make day trips to Gili T and Gili Air via public boats and private boat charter. The water surrounding the island is clear turquoise and the beaches are covered in brilliant white sand, fringed with coconut palms and native sea pines. Like all the Gilis, the best swimming beaches and the most tourist facilities (including the boat harbour) are located along the east coast.

There is a lively bar scene at night and the island has a rotating roster, where different bars have licenses to host a party on one night of the week (hence the “party island” reputation). These parties are a big draw-card for the crowds of younger people who come to the island. For those who prefer quieter entertainment, there are many low-key and romantic options, such as beachside dining, Spas, yoga retreats and more. The busiest area, called ‘Sentral’, is on the east of the island, close to the harbour. Here you will find the greatest number of bars and restaurants, many hotels and resorts, and lots of shops and activities. Resorts, restaurants, dive centres, bars, shops and other businesses line the paved ‘road’ that runs around the entire coast of the island. Small roads meander inland from the main coastal road, where many of the island’s local people live. Home-stays, small hotels and private villas here offer a quieter (and often cheaper) alternative to the beachfront choices. The north coast of Gili T has a quieter vibe and offers a peaceful alternative to the central area.

Although the beaches to the north can be a bit ordinary, the views are beautiful and snorkelling from the beach is good. The location makes it easy to access the dining and nightlife options nearby but also offers a different, more natural side of the island.

It is possible to walk around the whole island on a small beach track in around 90 minutes. Those seeking total tranquillity head to the north and west coasts, where more development has been quietly taking place over the past years. The north coast boasts some beautiful quiet beaches and quality accommodation

Likewise, the south and west coasts are popular with travellers seeking a place away from the crowds and are now dotted with small hotels, private villas and a couple of larger resorts. Although the beaches aren’t as nice as those on the east, the sunsets across the sea to Bali are magical. Gili Meno Gili Meno is the smallest and quietest of the three Gilis, perfect for really getting away from it all. Located between Gili Air and Gili T, Meno has the lowest population of the three Gilis and the least number of visitors. However, Meno’s popularity has soared over the past 5 years as travellers discover this ‘quieter Gili’ with its beautiful undeveloped

such as the luxurious Mahamaya Boutique Resort, quirky Adeng-Adeng Resort, and the elegant Seri Resort and Yoga Retreat to the northeast. Apart from these, small hotels and bungalows provide accommodation for those seeking a peaceful place in the sun with uncrowded beaches, clean waters and peaceful nights under the star-filled skies. There is no rowdy bar scene or noisy full moon parties here. Dotted around the island, casual beachfront cafés and bars serve Indonesian and popular western meals, with fresh fish and wood-fired pizzas being Gili Meno specialties. Continued on Page 70

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70 Continued from Page 69

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bathing, and swimming, snorkelling and diving, free diving, Subwing, kite surfing, glass bottom boat trips, stand up paddle boarding, surfing and other water sports.

Some provide low-key entertainment in the evenings, more so in the high season, but visitors to Gili Meno largely come for romantic escapes and a chance to rejuvenate on the island’s pretty beaches. A major attraction off the west coast is the underwater sculpture named ‘Nest’ located in the sea directly in front of BASK Resort. Snorkelling trips often include a visit to the sculpture or you can swim out to the site from the beach. Depicting 48 life-size male and female figures, standing together in a circle and entwined together on the ground, the art installation by famous sculptor Jason deCaires Taylor is hauntingly beautiful and well worth a visit. Gili Meno is also famous for the many turtles that live here. To swim with these huge creatures – that are so awkward and ungainly on land but move through their natural element with grace – is perhaps the most special underwater experience of all and a major reason for visiting Gili Meno. Gili Air Gili Air has a relaxed, laid-back style and is a good balance between the buzz of Gili T and the chill of Gili Meno. Gili Air is the island closest to the mainland and can be reached in around 20 minutes by local boat or five minutes by speedboat. Being the closest of the Gilis to the mainland, Gili Air has the largest local population of the three islands; combining

the charm of a tropical island with access to the people and culture that make Lombok unique. Like all the Gilis, the best swimming beaches are on the east coast and most development runs along the beaches here down to the harbour in the south. The views from all points of the island are stunning but the east coast, facing Lombok, is probably the most fantastic – looking back at the big island with its white beaches and green mountains dominated by Indonesia’s second largest volcano, Mt Rinjani. Accommodation on Gili Air ranges from simple back-packer bungalows to luxurious airconditioned rooms and private villas with hot water and swimming pools. There is a good variety of restaurants and beachside cafés on the island, offering everything from traditional Indonesian dishes to up-market international fare, authentic Italian and other cuisines. The bar scene can get pretty lively in the evenings and, during high season, the island kicks into high gear with Full Moon parties on the beach. Alternatively, pull up a seat at one of the beach bars and enjoy live music by some talented local musicians. Activities include walking and cycling around the island, sun

For exploring, there is a path running parallel to the beach and it takes around 90 minutes to circle the whole island. The interior is criss-crossed with a maze of tracks that can get confusing, but all lead back to the beach. The calm waters and good visibility make Gili Air an ideal place to learn to dive or to upgrade diving skills. There are a number of professional dive centres on the island and, of course, it is easy to explore the other islands from here. Popular dive sites on Gili Air that attract divers from the other Gilis include Air Wall off the west coast, Hans Reef and Frogfish Point off the north coast. The water surrounding the island is a clear, translucent aquamarine, made even more pure by the sparkling white sand beneath. For those who have never had the pleasure of viewing the magical world under the ocean, Gili Air offers a superb opportunity to do so in safety and comfort. Other activities on the island include yoga and meditation classes, cooking classes, browsing the cute shops, relaxing massages and body treatments, and simply chilling out on a beautiful little tropical island.

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GILI ISLANDS FAST FACTS

Gili Trawangan by Barbara

Boats and Island Hopping: Gili Air, Meno and Trawangan are grouped together off the northwest coast of Lombok and only a short distance apart, so it is easy to move between the three islands.You may want to explore each island for a couple of days or base yourself on one and take day trips to the other islands. Public boats leave from the harbours on each island with transfers to the other islands available every morning and afternoon, eg; Gili Air to Gili Meno, or Gili Air to Gili Trawangan, and vice versa. Prices are reasonable. Purchase tickets at the ticket office located at the harbour on each island. It is possible to charter perahu (local outrigger boats), speed boats and even glass bottom boats for exploring the islands. Bargain hard! Electricity is fairly stable on all three Gilis, although blackouts are sometimes a problem. Most places have their own emergency generators for back-up power but smaller businesses may rely on candles and lanterns when the power goes out. Water is a scarce resource on the islands and is supplied by desalination plants and ground water wells.Your awareness in conserving this finite resource is appreciated; take short showers and opt to reuse bedding and towels. The tap water on all the islands is not suitable for drinking but bottled water is cheap and readily available. Internet is available on all three Gilis at most hotels and restaurants. Connections can be intermittent and speeds are generally slow. All three islands have ATM machines so you don’t need to carry a lot of cash. Credit cards are accepted at most dive shops and larger hotels and restaurants.

Money changers are available on all the islands, although the rate is lower than on Lombok.

will cost around Rp 50,000 – 100,000; depending on your bargaining skills. Walking or riding a bike is a nicer option.

Health services on the islands are improving and there are basic medical supplies available. There are around a dozen clinics on Gili T, including a 24-hour Clinic at Hotel Vila Ombak. Gili Air also has several clinics and there are local clinics on Gili Meno.

Dress is casual on the islands and it is normal to see tourists walking around in swimsuits, sarongs and shorts. Remember that the islands’ residents are Muslim and nude or topless sunbathing is frowned upon. Please respect island culture and keep your clothes on!

Dive shop staff are also trained for emergency first aid. For anything serious, it is best to visit a hospital on the mainland (see our “Useful Contacts” page). Weather is generally hotter on the islands than mainland Lombok. Make sure you drink plenty of water to stay hydrated and use sun protection, even on cloudy days. There is no motorised transport on any of the islands. Walk, ride a bicycle or catch a cidomo (local horse cart). None of the islands is very large, so walking is an easy option. Bicycles can be hired for around Rp 50,000 per day, depending on the type and condition of the bike. Some hotels provide bikes free of charge for guests.

Mosquitoes can sometimes be a problem, especially during rainy season. DEET repellents are the best protection and local products such as “Autan” and “OFF!” are relatively cheap and readily available in the shops.

Cidomo fares are generally expensive and rates are fixed by the koperasi on each The Gili Eco Trust (GET) is a nonprofit organisation based on Gili T that island. On Gili T, rates are displayed in the front of the cart. Generally, short distances works to protect and conserve the environment. GET activities include reef conservation, waste management and education programmes, to name a few.

The Eco Trust raises funds for its programmes through an Eco-tax collected from divers on the islands. The Trust holds regular clean-up days to collect rubbish from the beach and sea. Register at Gili T dive shops and join in the fun! To find out more about Eco-projects and to support GET programmes, visit: www.giliecotrust.com

The Gilis

Tourism Information

GETTING TO THE GILIS

cost around Rp 20,000 per person.

There are dozens of fast boat services operating between Bali and the Gilis (as well as many that stop at Teluk Nara on the northwest coast of mainland Lombok).

Speedboat charters are available to all three islands, from around Rp 350,000 to Rp 500,000 depending on your bargaining skills and which island you are going to.

Alternatively, you can fly to Lombok and travel across to the Gilis. Fast Boats: With Lombok’s airport based in Central Lombok, fast boat services are a popular option to flying, and provide fast and easy transfers between Bali and the Gilis. Most fast boats leave Bali from either Serangan Harbour in the south of Bali (around 30 minutes from Kuta) or from Padang Bai Harbour in East Bali (around 2 ½ hours from Kuta). In good weather, fast boats can make the crossing in around 80 minutes but in heavy seas the trip can take two hours or more. The Lombok Strait – between Bali and Lombok – is one of the deepest bodies of water in the region and, during certain times of the year, waves can reach up to 4 metres high. As there are so many boats to choose from, search the internet for “fast boat Gili Islands” to check other travellers’ reviews and choose a reliable operator. Avoid companies that practice “over loading” in busy times. *** Since the earthquake in August, fast boat services have resumed to the Gili Islands. Blue Water Express, Gili Getaway, Eka Jaya Fast Boat, Patagonia Xpress, Ganggari, Golden Queen, and Freebird Express (from Amed) are all operating daily transfers now. More operators are expected to resume their routes this month.

Blue Water Express is one of the longest running and most reliable fast boat operators travelling between Bali and Lombok. Blue Water Express has services between Bali, Gili T, Gili Air and mainland Lombok, with convenient departures from two different locations on Bali – Serangan and Padang Bai Harbour – every day. Fares include air conditioned hotel transfers in Bali. Ph: +62 361 895 1111 | +62 813 3841 8988. www.bluewater-express.com

Gili Getaway is a comfortable fast boat departing from Serangan Harbour daily. Gili Getaway provides transfers to Gili T, Gili Air, Bangsal Harbour (on Lombok), as well as to Gili Gede in Southwest Lombok. Fares include air conditioned hotel transfers to main points in Bali. Ph: +62 811 380 1717 | +62 813 3707 4147. www.giligetaway.com By Plane: Fly to Lombok and either stay on the mainland before making a trip out to the Gilis or travel to Senggigi (around 1 hour) to arrange transport to the Gilis. Alternatively, organize a taxi or private driver from the airport to Bangsal Harbour (approx 1 hour 45 minutes). There are many different options, as described below. Tour companies and dive operators in Senggigi also provide transfers daily. HOTEL TRANSFERS: Many of the larger hotels on the islands provide speedboat transfers for guests, as well as pick up services from the airport – enquire when you make your booking. FROM TELUK NARA AND TELUK KODEK: Teluk Nara is a large peaceful bay on the northwest coast, about 25 minutes’ drive north of Senggigi. Most of the dive companies and many businesses on the Gilis have boats moored in the bay and transfer guests to the islands every day from here.

Bangsal.

It is possible to negotiate private boat trips (including speed boat transfers) out to the islands with local boat owners here, thereby avoiding the hassles of

FROM BANGSAL HARBOUR: Catch a taxi to Bangsal Harbour, the small harbour on the northwest coast, about 30 minutes from Senggigi (and a few minutes north of Teluk Nara). Public boats depart regularly to each of the three islands and charters are available, with prices depending on the number of passengers and your bargaining skills. Public ferries operate from 8am – 5pm; but it’s best to get there in the morning and

Unfortunately, the area is plagued by touts and scams, so ignore them and head directly to the ticket office on the beachfront. Public ferry and charter boat prices are displayed clearly on the wall of the ticket office. Be aware that public boats leave when there are enough passengers to warrant the trip, so you may have to wait for a while. Best times are between 8am and 2pm. If you don’t want to wait, or if the public boat looks dangerously overloaded, you may want to charter a boat, especially if you have a few people in your group. Don’t let anyone carry your bags or, if they offer to carry baggage, negotiate a price first. Ignore people who tell you that there are no return public transfers (there are); or that there is no water, mosquito repellent, etc., on the islands. All the essentials are readily available at shops on all three islands. Bangsal is a pretty area; it’s a shame some of the touts try to ruin it for everyone. If you get stuck at the harbour in the evening, there are some basic home-stays on the road from the beach. Arnel Bungalows is a nice option with pretty rooms at reasonable prices. The attached Salero Minang restaurant serves delicious Minang meals and the friendly owners can help with everything from vehicle hire to travel information and laundry services. FROM SENGGIGI: You can charter local outrigger boats from the beachfront in Senggigi (in front of the Art Markets). The trip out to the islands takes around one and a half hours. The journey up the coast in the morning is very scenic, but you may get wet on the way back. Make sure you negotiate a price with the boatman first! A good alternative is to check out the many dive centres on the main street in Senggigi who offer reasonable rates for transfers, usually including pick up from your hotel. Arranging snorkelling and dive trips inclusive of island transfers is a good way to save time, money and hassles.

The Gilis

Tourism Information