Interview with Christian Selmoni

Why these new sizes?

These new 34.5 and 35 mm diameters correspond to growing demand from our customers for a smaller size, thus ensuring greater discretion on both women’s and men’s wrists.

How the Overseas is a true travel companion ?

I invite you take a step back in time! As early as the late 19th century, timepieces embodying remarkable advances in terms of anti-magnetism and water-resistance marked the beginnings of the Maison’s sports watches, such as the 1885 model resistant to magnetic disturbances and the 1898 pocket watch protected against humidity. The 1930s then saw the appearance of steel watches, characterised by a screw-down bezel and caseback and an unbreakable sapphire crystal. In the 1970s, Vacheron Constantin once again introduced several models designed for active life, including the 1975 Chronomètre Royal, the company’s first steel watch with integrated bracelet, as well as the famous 222. The latter was a sports watch water-resistant to 120 metres that inspired the creation of the first Overseas models in 1996, driven by the spirit of travel and openness to the world. This remarkably technical collection quickly became a benchmark for the brand, and its codes evolved over time, particularly with regards to the metal bracelet, which as of 2004 featured a motif evoking the brand’s Maltese cross emblem. In 2016, the certified new-wave Overseas resolutely took its place in the 21st century and marked a new aesthetic signature for timepieces destined to become true travel companions.

Why didn’t you adapt the gemset versions to the same diameter as the non-set ones by adjusting the diamond size, or vice versa? This difference, which is barely perceptible to the naked eye, is essentially explained by gemsetting issues. While the case remains the same, the size of the bezel is subtly increased to provide more space for the prong setting chosen to achieve optimal light refraction. As we have two rows of diamonds in the bezel notches shaped like the branches of the Maltese cross and we did not want to reduce the carat weight of the stones, we worked on the dimensions of the bezel.

What does the interchangeable buckle/ clasp bring?

The interchangeability concept is in fact taken a stage further in order to give owners a chance to modify the appearance of their watch in step with their wishes and circumstances. As they are now able to change the buckle/clasp and bracelet/strap tool-free, they can simply acquire new leather or rubber straps offered by Vacheron Constantin and adapt them to the buckles/ clasps already in their possession.

What can you tell us about the calibre powering these models?

For these new models, we were keen to offer a mechanical self-winding model comprising calibres equipped

Bits of Glitz

with the collection’s characteristic rotor. As these are basic models with three hands and date, we needed a reliable, robust and precise calibre. In other words, a movement that has already proven its worth within our collections. We therefore chose Calibre 1088/1, which meets all these conditions, equipped in these versions with a stop-seconds mechanism and perfectly in line with the concept of a sports watch water-resistant to 150 metres.

Type Xx

History Continues

A Return To Roots

It was only natural for Breguet to draw on its inexhaustible heritage in creating the new Type XX. Putting things into context, one may recall that in the early 1950s, Breguet was able to meet the requirements of air forces wishing to equip themselves with a robust wrist chronograph featuring certain distinctive characteristics.

A prestigious and widely recognised firm keen to be part of humankind’s great adventures, Breguet placed itself at the service of airborne navigation in the 20th century, just as it had done for maritime navigation in the 19th century. A large number of pilots acquired Breguet watches, including Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1910, American pilots stationed in France in 1918, the Louis Breguet aviation company, Japanese pilots visiting France in the 1920s, and many others...

Type Xx Chronographe 2057 The Military Heritage

This collection enjoying iconic status for nearly 70 years has accompanied the history of aviation –whether on pilots’ wrists as a precision instrument or on those of amateur enthusiasts fascinated by its legendary qualities. The Manufacture Breguet proudly unveils a redesigned line that is innovative, highly contemporary and brimming with nods to history.

This timepiece is inspired by the 1100 delivered to the French Air Force between 1955 and 1959, whose name appeared as Type 20 in Arabic numerals, unlike all the others, including those of the Aéronautique Navale, whose name was written Type XX in Roman numerals. Its black dial has been modernised while remaining faithful to the Type 20 identity.

The Arabic numerals and the triangle on the bezel are luminescent and feature a mint green shade, as do all the hands. The 30-minute totalizer located at 3 o’clock is now larger than the 60-second totalizer displayed at 9 o’clock, and a date window has been added between 4 and 5 o’clock.

The 42 mm steel case is fitted with a non-engraved fluted bidirectional bezel, as was that of the mod els delivered to military air forces in the past. The crown reflecting the original pear shape is adjust able in three positions: 1) neutral, 2) date correc tion, 3) time setting. The 2 o’clock pusher serves to activate the chronograph, the one at 4 o’clock for the “flyback” function. The for mer is used to start and stop the watch, while the latter serves to reset the chronograph and the minute totalizer.

Type Xx Chronographe 2067 The Line Of Civilian Version

This second timepiece with its adventurous look is a direct descendant of the finest civilian Type XX from the 1950s and 1960s, notably a model made in 1957 and bearing the individual number 2988. While its dial is black as the 2057, it differs in several respects.

First of all, its display: the 15-minute totalizer is located at 3 o’clock, the 12-hour totalizer at 6 o’clock and running seconds at 9 o’clock. Just as in the military-inspired ver sion, the totalizer is sized differently to make the dial both more dynamic and more legible. The Arabic numerals, the hands and the triangle on the bezel are coated with an ivory-coloured luminescent treatment. The date window appears between 4 and 5 o’clock.

The 42 mm steel case is fitted with a fluted bidi rectional graduated bezel. Its classic straight crown enables setting in three positions: 1) neutral, 2) date correction, 3) time setting. The 2 o’clock pusher starts and stops the chronograph functions, while the one at 4 o’clock resets and restarts the chronograph immediately, based on the famous “flyback” function.

Bits of Glitz

Accuracy And Sturdiness Arrival Of The New Calibre 728

After four years of development at the Manufacture Breguet, the brand is delighted to present the new self-winding Calibre 728 for the civilian version and Calibre 7281 for the military version. Combining robustness and innovation, this movement and its variant are protected by several patents.

It incorporates all the designs of a modern chronograph such as a column wheel, vertical clutch, 5 Hz frequency as well as an innovative zero-resetting activation system. Alongside these elements, it also benefits from the latest technical innovations in the field of chronometry (precision timing).

The balance-spring, the escape-wheel and the pallet-lever horns are made of silicon. In addition to being resistant to corrosion and wear, silicon is insensitive to the influence of magnetic fields and improves the accuracy of the timepiece. Moreover, this self-winding chronograph has a 60-hour power reserve.