Total distance 312 miles
your tour Vale of Rheidol
AUTO-trail Tracker FB
Duration 5 days
The accessible Ceredigion landscape is beautiful and has a fascinating heritage
The stunning view across Nant y Moch Dam at the Rheidol Power Station
Left North Bay presents a tranquil scene Above The 110-year-old Coliseum theatre is the unusual setting for the Ceredigion Museum, accessed via the Tourist Office
You can explore the Silver Mountain Exerience from above or below ground
Stormtrooping in
Ceredigion
Aberystwyth suffered punishing gales in 2013, but a year on David Terence found it was very much open for business
A
david terence enjoys touring in his Auto-Trail and is an experienced technical writer
fter several visits to the Gower Peninsula and the Pembrokeshire coastal path, we made a conscious decision to spend time and money in Aberystwyth, which had suffered badly during the violent storms of November 2013. Much of the town’s seawall and historic seafront were destroyed; Victorian shelters, railings and seats were uprooted by the powerful waves, while seafront hotels suffered flooding in basements. To the council’s credit there was little evidence of the trail of damage on our visit, although roofers were still busy on the buildings used as university residences at the far side of the bay. We were travelling from Alcester, in Warwickshire, having enjoyed a great weekend of sunshine at the Classic Camper Club’s National Rally, and heading for the Silver Mountain Experience off the A44, en route to Aberystwyth. Happily, there were no problems parking our motorhome, and
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it was free. From the reception and tearooms you can choose to stay above ground exploring the redundant mine or go below into the mine. The attraction has something for all ages: children can follow a nature trail discovering Woo Hoo Wood, Tangle Foot Maze and Higgle Hide along the way, before gem panning, giant puzzles and paddling in Silver River, damming and diverting the wooden channels – who cares if you get wet! There’s also a picnic area with views, and a mining exhibition. A little further on is Bwlch Nant yr Arian Forest Visitor Centre offering woodland walks, lakeside views and bird hides. Unsure if we could park with a coachbuilt we continued on, missing out on the daily feeding of Red Kites. We try to select sites for their location, be it close to attractions, ‘Park and Ride’ or a bus service into town, and so had chosen the Aberystwyth Holiday village, but sometimes this method can be a little hit and miss! What we
The town’s Ceredigion museum didn’t realise was that it was on a can be accessed via the tourist steep incline. Clearly aimed at families, office and it is so worth a visit. the site boasts a swimming pool, It’s an unusual setting for a gym, bowling, amusements, museum: beginnning life as the a well-stocked mini-market ornate Coliseum theatre of 1904, and a late take-out (or it became a cinema in the eat-in) mini restaurant. 1930s. Now, displayed over After pitching several tiers, was a wide and a cuppa, we array of artifacts from discovered there ladies’ undergarments was no alternative to kitchens, art to walking up the Ceredigion Museum to a typical steep roadway out Aberystwyth Welsh parlour. of the site before Woodlands Aberystwyth Walking along the descending towards Caravan Park Holiday Village promenade it’s hard the marina; with the Devil’s to miss the ruined return journey that’s Bridge Falls castle, war memorial a lot of ups and and views over to downs before dinner! Constitution Hill. Further Next morning we along, major work was still ventured further to the town being undertaken on flooded hotels centre and North Bay that had been and the refurbishment of roofs. so ravaged by storms. Tourist centre The energetic can walk up the staff told of the beach being thrown winding coastal path to the Camera up on to the promenade, creating Obscura; we opted for the cliff railway. rubble to a depth of several feet.
Actors make the Silver Mountain Experience less scary for youngsters Ice cream and chippies can be found throughout the town, but finding a bakery was difficult. One thing we realised was that almost everything closes at 5pm: we had only two choices for an evening meal out! the train to Devil’s Bridge Next day we took a different direction from the site, to catch the 10.30am train on the Vale of Rheidol Railway. The narrow-gauge railway, which opened in 1902, travels from Aberystwyth and Cardigan Bay, in places clinging to the mountainside, 12 miles to Devil’s Bridge. As the engine struggles on the way up, the views, mixed with belching smoke, are stunning, regardless of the
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The sea, Oliver Cromwell and local pilfering have all played their part in the ruination of Aberystwyth Castle
your yourtour tour North Vale ofGermany Rheidol
TOUR ESSENTIALS Way to go
Walk part of the 60-mile Ceredigion Coast Path north from Aberystwyth to Ynyslas (11.7 miles) or south to Llanrhystud (10.6 miles) The narrow-gauge Vale of Rheidol railway pulls into Devil’s Bridge station after a steep climb
weather. At Devil’s Bridge the train rests for an hour. Many passengers walk down to the falls and catch a later train for the return journey. We intended to stay here the next day, so sat with refreshments among a fascinating array of chainsaw woodcraft. The return journey is almost entirely downhill: the engine sound changing to one of holding back the weight of the numerous carriages. On alighting we looked around the shop before stocking up with groceries from the adjacent Co-op. Walking over the sail bridge onto a side street brought us out at the foot of the hill towards the site – it proved a welcome short cut when holding carrier bags of food that were cutting off the blood to my fingers. Next morning in slight drizzle we set off for the A4120 and Devil’s Bridge. The intention was to visit the Rheidol Power Station and visitor centre on the way. I soon found the roads towards it from the A4120 were unsuitable for large vehicles. We should have visited on the way into Aberystwyth off the
A44. All we saw of it was from high above on our train journey. It was a pity because the hydro-electric scheme is the largest in England and Wales. Our second site was a gem, as well as unusual. Reception and tearooms are to be found just after crossing Devil’s Bridge (we, of course, encountered a jumbo tractor); from here you drive up through private holiday homes, turning at the farm onto the campsite. Woodlands has invested in a state-ofthe-art facility block. Newly opened, it boasts maximum green credentials – superb showers and a fantastic view while washing the dishes! Making deals with the Devil The slight drizzle turned to a torrential downpour, so reading books and watching television was the order of the day. Next morning we pulled on walking boots to explore Devil’s Bridge and the Mynach and Gyfarllwyd Falls. There is, of course, a legend connected with the bridge. It is said that an old lady let her cow wander across the
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river and because the gorge was deep she didn’t know how to get it back. The devil appeared and told her he would build her a bridge – but he wanted to keep the first living thing that crossed it for himself, thinking that she would cross to fetch the cow. She agreed. However, she outwitted him by throwing a crust of bread across the bridge; her dog ran across after it. The Devil had the dog, the lady her cow! Sturdy footwear is a must, because the drop into the valley is severe and not for those with health problems. The Devil’s Punchbowl over the road is accessed via a £1-coin turnstile. Immediately you’re beside Devil’s Bridge, which is actually three bridges spanning the Rheidol Gorge carved out by the River Mynach. The lowest bridge is a simple stone arch; the middle bridge, with iron balustrade, dates from around 1708 – this was topped at the beginning of the 20th century by the uppermost bridge. Girders were used to strengthen it in 1971-72, and the Victorian parapets were replaced with a similar design in 1983.
The path is uneven and the stones are slippery when wet, but as you descend you are rewarded with fantastic views that pop into sight through the trees. A gazebo offers a resting place to admire the many falls before the 100 near-vertical steps of Jacobs Ladder. You’re now 300ft down into the gorge. According to the informative booklet (50p) we were halfway, the second half being back up the other side! It’s a steep climb and took numerous stops along the way to seek out fallen trees, pot holes and swirls, even an old highway robber’s cave. At no point did we find oxygen support, and were pleased to note those half our age were struggling, too. It was worth it but
Left Devil’s Bridge comprises three bridges Above View from Devil’s Bridge once ticked off – never again. It was a brutal confirmation of just how unfit I am. However, I did have a quick walk into the Devil’s Punchbowl for photos. Then it was time for tea and cakes before venturing further up the road towards the railway station. As the train had not arrived we perused Sarah Bunton’s chocolate shop opposite the station, finally giving into gifts and a delicious sugar-cone ice cream with solid mini chocolate cone-shape insert. Finally, I got the photo of the train that I craved as it came into view finishing its long climb, chugging into the station for a well-earned rest.
Where we stayed
Aberystwyth Holiday Village Penparcau Road, Aberystwyth SY23 1TH Tel 01970 624 211 Web www.aberystwythholidays.co.uk Open March-October Woodlands Caravan & Camping Park Devils Bridge SY23 3JW Tel 01970 890 233 Web www.wood landsdevils bridge.co.uk Open March-October
Find out more
• aberystwythTIC@ceredigion.gov.uk Tel 01970 612 125 • Silver Mountain Experience Tel 01970 890 620 Web www.silvermountainexperience.co.uk • Vale of Rheidol Railway Tel 01970 625 819 Web www.rheidolrailway.co.uk • Devil’s Bridge Tel 01970 890 233 Web www.devilsbridgefalls.co.uk Charges Entrance to the trails and falls: Adult £3.75. Senior £3. Child (5yrs+) £2
Costs
Fuel................................................. £73 Food & drink.................................. £48 Campsite........................................ £95 Attractions..................................... £58 TOTAL.......................................... £274
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