Maine magazine September 2018 by Maine Magazine

September 2018

FERRY AWAY FINDING QUARRIES, LOBSTERMEN, AND STARRY NIGHTS ON VINALHAVEN

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T H E

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Innova�ve Highland Green Neighborhood; Pre-Construc�on Sale; Three-Story Buildings; Parking Under; Elevators Up; One-Floor Living; Contemporary; Bright; Luxury Finishes; Energy Eﬃcient Watch a VIDEO of THE NEST at HG with 3-D renderings on our website. Move in 2019 or 2020.

JOIN US FOR A SPECIAL HG EVENT! Friday, September 7, 2018 Featuring info, homes, neighborhoods and HG resident rock band Oﬀ Their Rockers! Visit our website or call us for more informa�on.

Highland Green is the Northeast’s premier 55+ Active Adult Community and has attracted hundreds of interesting people from 31 diﬀerent U.S. states and counting. 7 Evergreen Circle, Topsham, Maine | 866-854-1200 / 207-725-4549 | HighlandGreenLifestyle.com

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Liv Toftner, 71. Dairy goat farmer. Mount Vernon

Sammee Quong, 72. Rock climber. Augusta

Traditional ideas about aging and life choices just don’t always fit us. Sammee Quong, 72, takes her adventurous spirit to new heights. Liv Toftner, 71, raises dairy goats on her farm in Mount Vernon. Mainers refuse to be defined or confined by a number. At AARP Maine, we don’t limit our goals and dreams based on age. In fact, our organization was founded by a retired school teacher when she was 73 years old. What does “living your best life” mean to you? To learn more about us and our work in Maine, go to aarp.org/me or @aarpmaine. #NotDefinedOrConfined

Mainers have always been independent, innovative and strong.

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10 Secrets our Bra Fitting Experts Want You To Know For most people, trying on bras is about as fun as getting a flu shot. But after thousands of fittings, we’ve decided it was time for some #realtalk before your next (or first!) bra fitting at Aristelle.

1. We’re not judging your body. at all. We want you to look and feel your best, and your stomach/back/stretch marks/etc. is the last thing on our mind when getting you the right fit.

2. Your underarms are not fat. Everyone has loose skin there, and no one notices it when you’re wearing a shirt. Don’t sweat it. How is anyone supposed to tone that area, anyway?!

3. And your breasts aren’t saggy. They’re completely normal! Trust us - we’ve seen hundreds and hundreds of them. We know what’s “normal”. Nobody actually looks like the Cosmo cover models.

4. You have nipples, we have nipples, everyone has them. Nipples don’t faze us, whatever shape, size, color, positionwe’ve seen it all. And if you don’t have nipples? No need to feel selfconscious. Lots of women have undergone surgery for various reasons and you are not alone. Not to mention, being a breast cancer survivor makes you a total badass!

5. Speaking of seeing it all... Don’t be embarrassed or ashamed of your breast shape or size. It is actually more common for women to have asymmetrical breasts than to have so-called “perfect” ones. There is never a need to feel sorry or apologize for your breasts!

6. The experts aren’t always right. Are we experienced? Yes. Do we know what we’re talking about? Of course! But guess who’s in charge? You are. If something feels uncomfortable, trust your gut. You know your own body. Would you let a hairstylist chop your hair into a pixie cut because they think it would suit your face? But everybody is unique and you should make any final decisions for yourself because they make you genuinely happy.

7. Except we’re right when we tell you that you really do need more than one bra. We get it- bras are an investment! But just like a nice pair of jeans, bras get worn out quickly if you wear them every single day without giving them a breather. We’re not even going to say “treat yourself” because a few wellfitting bras is something you need. But we will say this: You deserve it!

8. Speaking of bras? Yes, you CAN pull off a sexy red bra. Guess what, Ms. Plain Jane? You can totally rock a “sexy” bra. They’re often as supportive as everyday styles, so why not try one? We’d never force you to try anything, but we think you’ll be surprised if you take the plunge.

9. But also, it’s totally okay to be Plain Jane. As we said before, it’s up to you! We think every woman should own whichever kinds of bras make her feel amazing. That’s why we go through the effort of carrying so many styles. And so, maybe Jane isn’t actually plain at all. Maybe she just wears vibrant outfits that don’t need anything showing underneath.

10. In the end, it’s about what makes you feel confident and comfortable in your own skin. This is what Aristelle is about. There are many choices of brands and styles in every lingerie store (but not many have the range of sizes we offer). If you’re overwhelmed, we’re here for you! And if you’d rather have your privacy and try things on without our feedback, just let us know. The space is yours, and we want your shopping experience to feel safe and relaxed. On a budget? No worries. If there’s one thing we want you to remember more than anything else on this list, we’ll say it again: We’re not judging your body or you.

92 Exchange Street | 207-842-6000 | Aristelle.com

10 Secrets 10 Secrets our Bra our Bra Fitting Fitting Experts Want Experts Want You To Know You To Know

For most people, trying on bras is about as fun as getting a flu shot. But after thousands For most people, trying on bras is about as of fittings, we’ve decided it was time for some fun as getting a flu shot. But after thousands #realtalk before your next (or first!) bra fitting of fittings, we’ve decided it was time for some at Aristelle. #realtalk before your next (or first!) bra fitting at Aristelle.

1. We’re not judging your body. at all. We want you to look and feel your best, and your 1. We’re not judging your body. at all. stomach/back/stretch marks/etc. is the last thing on our

We want you to look and feel your best, and your mind when getting you the right fit. stomach/back/stretch marks/etc. is the last thing on our mind when getting you the right fit.

2. Your underarms are not fat. Everyone has loose skinare there, 2. Your underarms notand fat.no one notices it when you’re wearing a shirt. Don’t sweat it. How is

Everyone has loose skin there, and no one notices it anyone supposed to tone that area, anyway?! when you’re wearing a shirt. Don’t sweat it. How is anyone supposed to tone that area, anyway?!

3. And your breasts aren’t saggy. They’re normal! Trust us - we’ve seen 3. Andcompletely your breasts aren’t saggy. hundreds and hundreds of them. We know what’s

They’re completely normal! Trust us - we’ve seen “normal”. Nobody actually looks like the Cosmo cover hundreds and hundreds of them. We know what’s models. “normal”. Nobody actually looks like the Cosmo cover models.

4. You have nipples, we have nipples, everyone 4. You have nipples, we have nipples, everyone has them. Nipples don’t faze us, whatever shape, has color, them. Nipples don’t faze us, itwhatever size, positionwe’ve seen all. shape, And don’t have nipples? need it toall. feel selfsize,if you color, positionwe’veNoseen conscious. ofhave women have undergone surgery And if youLots don’t nipples? No need to feel self- for various reasons you are notundergone alone. Not surgery to mention, conscious. Lots and of women have for being a breast cancer survivor makes you total badass! various reasons and you are not alone. Nota to mention, being a breast cancer survivor makes you a total badass!

5. Speaking of seeing it all... Don’t be embarrassed ashamed ofDon’t your breast shape 5. Speaking of or seeing it all... be or size. embarrassed or ashamed of your breast shape It is actually more common for women to have or size. asymmetrical breasts than to have so-called “perfect”

ones. There ismore nevercommon a need to feel sorry to orhave apologize for It is actually for women your breasts! breasts than to have so-called “perfect” asymmetrical ones. There is never a need to feel sorry or apologize for your breasts!

6. The experts aren’t always right. Are we experienced? Yes. Do we know what we’re 6. The experts right. talking about? Ofaren’t course!always But guess who’s in charge?

You If somethingYes. feels Are are. we experienced? Douncomfortable, we know whattrust we’re your gut. You know your But ownguess body.who’s Would let a talking about? Of course! inyou charge? hairstylist your hair a pixie cut because they You are. If chop something feelsinto uncomfortable, trust think it would suit your everybody is unique your gut. You know yourface? ownBut body. Would you let a hairstylist chop make your hair pixie cut for because they and you should any into finaladecisions yourself think it would suit your face? But everybody is unique because they make you genuinely happy. and you should make any final decisions for yourself because they make you genuinely happy.

7. Except we’re right when we tell you that you really dowe’re need more 7. Except rightthan whenone we bra. tell you that you We get it- bras are an investment! But just like a nice really do need thanoutone bra. if you wear them pair of jeans, brasmore get worn quickly We getsingle it- bras are an investment! But just like a nice every day without giving them a breather. We’re paireven of jeans, bras get“treat worn yourself” out quickly if you wear not going to say because a fewthem wellevery single without giving them a breather. We’re fitting bras isday something you need. But we will say this: not even going You deserve it! to say “treat yourself” because a few wellfitting bras is something you need. But we will say this: You deserve it!

8. Speaking of bras? Yes, you CAN pull off a sexy red bra. of bras? Yes, you CAN pull off a sexy 8. Speaking Guess what, Ms. Plain Jane? You can totally rock a “sexy” red bra. bra. They’re often as supportive as everyday styles, so Guess what, Ms. Plain can totally a “sexy” why not try one? We’d Jane? never You force you to tryrock anything, bra.we They’re everyday so but think often you’ll as be supportive surprised ifas you take thestyles, plunge. why not try one? We’d never force you to try anything, but we think you’ll be surprised if you take the plunge.

9. But also, it’s totally okay to be Plain Jane. As we said before, it’s up to okay you! We every woman 9. But also, it’s totally to think be Plain Jane. should own whichever kinds of bras make her feel

As we said before, it’s up to you! We think every woman amazing. That’s why we go through the effort of should own whichever kinds of bras make her feel carrying so many styles. And so, maybe Jane isn’t amazing. That’s why we go through the effort of actually plain at all. Maybe she just wears vibrant outfits carrying so many styles. And so, maybe Jane isn’t that don’t need anything showing underneath. actually plain at all. Maybe she just wears vibrant outfits that don’t need anything showing underneath.

10. In the end, it’s about what makes you feel 10. In the end, about whatinmakes you skin. feel confident andit’s comfortable your own This is whatand Aristelle is about. in There many choices confident comfortable yourareown skin.

of brands andAristelle styles in is every lingerie (but not many This is what about. Therestore are many choices have the range of sizes we offer). If you’re of brands and styles in every lingerie store overwhelmed, (but not many we’re here for you! Andwe if you’d have your privacy have the range of sizes offer).rather If you’re overwhelmed, and try things on without our feedback, justyour let us we’re here for you! And if you’d rather have privacy know. The space yours,our andfeedback, we wantjust your and try things on is without letshopping us experience to feel and relaxed. On your a budget? No know. The space issafe yours, and we want shopping worries. If there’s we want On youa to remember experience to feel one safething and relaxed. budget? No more than else on this list, we’ll say it again: worries. If anything there’s one thing we want you to remember We’re not judging body you. more than anythingyour else on thisor list, we’ll say it again: We’re not judging your body or you.

92 Exchange Street | 207-842-6000 | Aristelle.com 92 Exchange Street | 207-842-6000 | Aristelle.com

1912

CONTENTS

072

on the cover

Becoming Jane Dahmen 052

How the Newcastle artist went from doubting her work to seeing her brightly painted birches hanging in galleries across the state by Kate Gardner | Photography by Matt Cosby

A classic shingle-style boathouse on Vinalhaven. Photography by Peter Frank Edwards

on this page

Boats tied up in Vinalhaven's Carvers Harbor. Photography by Peter Frank Edwards

Farm Feats on the Fairway 060

Every September since 1868, the weeklong Cumberland Fair has drawn crowds to its agricultural triumphs and modern attractions by Sandy Lang | Photography by Peter Frank Edwards

Ferry, Harbor, Quarry, Love 072

Catching the boat for an end-of-summer visit to Vinalhaven, a granite island about 12 miles offshore from Rockland by Sandy Lang | Photography by Peter Frank Edwards

There’s Magic in the Trees 094

An ethereal, high-minded getaway in the woods of Monmouth is a childhood dream come true by Katy Kelleher | Photography by Erin Little

THERE + THEN 020 Going out, giving back: supporting nonprofits + local businesses in the vital work they do year-round CREATE

026 Kate Christensen

by Kate Gardner Photography by Dave Dostie

INNOVATE 028 Gulf of Maine Research Institute by Kate Gardner Photography by Dave Dostie

EXPLORE 030 Down East Sunrise Trail

by Kate Gardner Photography by Peter Frank Edwards

48 HOURS

032 Boothbay, Damariscotta + Wiscasset; York + Kittery

by Kate Gardner and Danielle Devine

A-LIST

050 Libraries

by Kate Gardner Photography by Heidi Kirn

EAT 088 King Eider’s Pub

by Susan Axelrod Photography by Nicole Wolf

CAPTURE 112 Meaghan Dunn EDITOR’S NOTE 015 CONTRIBUTORS 017 EVENTS 024

wellsreserve at laudholm wellsreserve atlaudholm laudholm wellsreserve at A PL ACE TO DISCOVER A PL ACE TO TO DISCOVER A PL ACE DISCOVER

laudholm nature 31 laudholm ST 31 laudholmnature nature

ST 31 ANNUAL

crafts festival crafts festival ANNUAL

ANNUAL

crafts festival wellsreserve wellsreserve wellsreserve at laudholm at laudholm at laudholm

September 8-9, 2018 10 am-4 pm A PL ACE A PLTO AACE PL DISCOVER ACE TO DISCOVER TO DISCOVER September 8-9, 2018 10 am-4 pm

laudholm laudholm laudholm nature nature nature

ST 31 ST ST 31 31 September 8-9, 2018 10 am-4 pm ANNUAL ANNUAL ANNUAL

crafts crafts crafts festival festival festival September September September 8-9,8-9, 2018 8-9, 2018 2018 10 am-4 10 am-4 10pm am-4 pmpm

120 Juried Artisans in a Historic Seaside Setting Beer, Wine & Food – Live Music – Ample Parking 120 Juried Artisans in a Historic Seaside Setting Beer, Wine & Food – Live Music – Ample Parking

wellsreserve.org/crafts wellsreserve.org/crafts

Sponsored by

Primary media sponsor:

Farnsworth Art Museum | 16 Museum Street, Rockland, ME 04841 | farnsworthmuseum.org Ai Weiwei, Circle of Animals/Zodiac heads: Gold â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Dragon, 2010

MAINE SAILING ADVENTURES

WE LOVE MAINE. We fill our work days creating Maine-centric media products—publishing magazines and guides, producing radio shows, managing social media sites, developing websites, filming videos, producing events—because of this simple tenet. Our staff have stayed here, come back here, or moved here because we love Maine’s rich history, its unique character, and the people who live here, and most important, because we believe in Maine’s potential. We simultaneously love the Maine we grew up in and fully embrace the reality that things change and evolve. And we bear witness to that happening here. We are cheerleaders for Maine as a place for people to live, stay, and thrive—a place for people from away to move to, a place for second homeowners to buy into, a place to raise children, a place to start and operate a business—as well as a place to visit and explore, a place to escape and heal. And, a place to be inspired.

MAINE STATE PIER á PORTLAND, ME

We cover Maine in a positive light. We intentionally leave the negativity and snark to other media outlets. There is a place for everything, and we honor that. But that place is not here. So if you love Maine, please turn to us with your reading eyes, your listening ears, your follows and your likes, your attendance, and your advertising and sponsorships. Explore what we believe is the best Maine has to offer, on the pages of our magazines and guides, through the airwaves, at events, and via social media.

SUBSCRIBE | themainemag.com

Maine is published twelve times each year by State 23 Media LLC Editorial and subscription information: phone 207.772.3373 | fax 888.836.6715 16 Middle Street | Suite 501 | Portland | Maine | 04101 Opinions expressed in articles or advertisements, unless otherwise noted, do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher, staff, or advisory board. Every effort has been made to ensure that all information presented in this issue is accurate, and neither Maine nor any of its staff is responsible for omissions or information that has been misrepresented to the magazine. Copyright © 2018, State 23 Media LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission, in writing, from the publisher. Printed in the U.S.A. themainemag.com

Charter . Special Events . Day Sail Yoga Sail . Acoustic Sunset Sail . Wine Sail

(207) 749-9169 á MAINESAILINGADVENTURES.NET 14

maine | themainemag.com

EDITOR’S NOTE Photography by Sean Thomas

Sandy Lang

PHOTOGRAPHERS |

Matt Congdon, Matt Cosby, Dave Dostie, Kyle Dubay, Peter Frank Edwards, Erin Little, Sean Thomas, Nicole Wolf PUBLISHER & CEO | Andrea King ADVERTISING ACCOUNT MANAGERS

Ryan Hammond, Peter Heinz, Tom Urban DIRECTOR OF FINANCE | Melissa Olander DIRECTOR OF MARKETING | Scott Wentzell DIRECTOR OF EVENTS & VISIBILITY

Shelbi Wassick OFFICE MANAGER | Casey Lovejoy GRAPHIC DESIGNER | Taylor Adams CIRCULATION | Sarah Lynn INTERN | Blair Best

MAINE HOME+DESIGN MAGAZINE

Danielle Devine, Joel Kuschke, Emma Simard OLD PORT MAGAZINE

Susan Axelrod, Sarah Prak STATE 23 MEDIA

Adam Japko, Sandy Spaulding Managing Partners

SUBSCRIBE | themainemag.com

Big change is sexier than small change. But often it’s the incremental changes that add up to lasting, substantial improvements. It’s true in personal finance (investing a little each month will always beat get-rich-quick schemes), and it’s true at this magazine. Our company recently underwent a big change, but I’m most excited about the small steps we’ve taken. You may have learned from publisher Andrea King’s note in the August issue that the magazine has new owners, including several partners with national and regional magazine experience. That change was needed from an organizational perspective, but more importantly—for you, the readers—the owners are empowering the editorial teams of Maine, Maine Home+Design, and Old Port to pursue their visions for the magazines. You’ll see examples of that in this issue. We thought our front-of-the-magazine content could be more substantial, so we added three new departments this month: Create, Innovate, and Explore. Create (p. 26) will feature people and things related to culture, such as interviews with Maine artists, authors, and musicians and profiles of cultural institutions and events. Innovate (p. 28) will focus on the people and organizations making our state a better place, and include stories on nonprofit organizations and business leaders. Explore (p. 30) is all about the outdoors. We will publish stories on

outdoor recreation, land conservation, and other ways to enjoy Maine’s natural resources. The reason for these sections is simple: we want to get more people and more places in each issue. Kate Gardner, who started as an editorial assistant in February, is now associate editor of Maine magazine. She has written her first feature for this issue (“Becoming Jane Dahmen,” p. 52). Along with writing larger features, Kate has taken on more responsibilities at the magazine. We also dropped the “managing” part of my title to reflect my increased autonomy in the organization (we no longer have an editorin-chief across all magazines). Because we work so far in advance, some of the other shifts won’t be noticeable for months (all those summery stories you saw in the past few months were photographed a year ago). We’re well into planning our stories for 2019, and as part of this process, we are including a greater cross section of Maine in each issue. I’m always open to feedback, so if you have any ideas (big or small), please reach out. I hope you enjoy what we’ve come up with so far and will join us in continuing to celebrate Maine on our pages in the coming year.

Paul Koenig Editor pkoenig@themainemag.com

September 2018 15

WE GIVE BACK.

At State 23 Media our mission is to make a substantial and unique contribution to supporting Maine’s nonprofit community statewide, regionally, and at the town level. We believe that the work Maine’s nonprofit organizations do, individually and collectively, makes our lives better and Maine a better place to live. With limited budgets, Maine’s nonprofits need help boosting awareness of their specific causes and raising the funds they need. We have established long-term relationships with over 120 nonprofits and community-based organizations. We give to these organizations by providing, free of charge, services ranging from advertising to graphic design, brand development, marketing advice, online announcements, and social media engagement. We often include nonprofit organizations in our editorial coverage through feature articles and/or recaps of their events. You’ll find the latter in our “There + Then,” “Turnout,” and “Gather” sections. WE ARE PROUD OF OUR AFFILIATION WITH THE FOLLOWING ORGANIZATIONS:

THE ACADIA LIVE EDGE TABLE Designed & Made in Maine

SUBSCRIBE | themainemag.com

Maine is published twelve times each year by State 23 Media LLC

w w w.c h i l to n s .co m • 8 6 6 - 8 8 3 -3 3 6 6 F R E E P O R T 2 07- 8 6 5 - 4 3 0 8 • S C A R B O R O U G H 2 0 7- 8 8 3 -3 3 6 6

C E L E B R AT E S U M M E R • P R E PA R E F O R FA L L ! Our summer finale sale runs now through September 30. Visit our showrooms or Chiltons.com.

Editorial and subscription information: phone 207.772.3373 | fax 888.836.6715 16 Middle Street | Suite 501 | Portland | Maine | 04101 Opinions expressed in articles or advertisements, unless otherwise noted, do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher, staff, or advisory board. Every effort has been made to ensure that all information presented in this issue is accurate, and neither Maine nor any of its staff is responsible for omissions or information that has been misrepresented to the magazine. Copyright © 2018, State 23 Media LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission, in writing, from the publisher. Printed in the U.S.A. themainemag.com

maine | themainemag.com

CONTRIBUTORS

Photographer PETER FRANK EDWARDS is a frequent contributor to Maine magazine, Coastal Living, and Bon Appétit, and his work is featured in the latest issue of Fare magazine. When not on assignment, he enjoys cooking, boating, and tinkering with vintage outboards. For this issue, he experienced the Cumberland Fair (“Farm Feats on the Fairway,” p. 60) and visited Vinalhaven (“Ferry, Harbor, Quarry, Love,” p. 72).

Writer SANDY LANG loves summertime in Maine, and she’s likely (and hopefully) swimming or sailing off the midcoast right now. A contributing editor to Charleston and Maine magazines, her writing for Maine recently earned a national award in the Society of American Travel Writers’ Lowell Thomas Travel Journalism Competition. For this issue, she joined photographer Peter Frank Edwards on visits to the Cumberland Fair (“Farm Feats on the Fairway,” p. 60) and Vinalhaven (“Ferry, Harbor, Quarry, Love,” p. 72).

DAVE DOSTIE is a self-taught, Maine-based commercial photographer balancing full-time careers in photography and government finance. For this issue, he met with author Kate Christensen (Create, p. 26) and Don Perkins, president and CEO of Gulf of Maine Research Institute (Innovate, p. 28), and captured portraits of each in their natural environment.

Associate editor KATE GARDNER has spent the past four years living in Portland’s West End with her boyfriend and their books. She spends her time cuddling her dog nephew, camping near lakes, and working to find the perfect pasta-to-sauce ratio. In this issue, she profiled artist Jane Dahmen (“Becoming Jane Dahmen,” p. 52), visited the Boothbay Region (48 Hours, p. 32), and wrote Maine magazine’s new sections, Create (p. 26), Innovate (p. 28), and Explore (p. 30).

September 2018 17

Hinckley Introductions is a boutique agency, based in New England, that specializes in matchmaking singles 40 and up.

I look forward to helping you navigate your way to a great relationship!

Jill Hinckley www.hinckleyintroductions.com Connecting people on a personal and meaningful level.

It’s no wonder Gorman Chairback Lodge and Cabins received TripAdvisor’s Certificate of Excellence. Unplug and recharge in the heart of Maine’s 100-Mile Wilderness.

“HOME IN THE WOODS”

“INCREDIBLE GETAWAY”

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BOOK YOUR ESCAPE outdoors.org/gormanchairback18

“CAN’T WAIT TO GO BACK”

Tile ♦ Design ♦ Stoneworks

PRESENTS

Color Theory

A CEU SEMINAR WITH

and Its Application

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Design community and friends - Join us for food, drink and a little learning!

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 5-7PM AT CELLARDOOR WINERY AT THE POINT

CREATIVE CUISINE BY

LUNADA BAY TILE

THERE + THEN Photography by Matt Congdon

Est. 1907® FINE JEWELRY & SPECIALTY GIFTS

2018 TREK ACROSS MAINE

A weekend bike ride to raise money for the American Lung Association The Trek Across Maine celebrated its 34th anniversary over Father’s Day weekend. With 1,200 riders and more than 600 volunteers, the trek spanned 180 miles across the state and raised $1.3 million in support of the American Lung Association’s mission. Along with enabling community fund-raising, the Trek Across Maine educates the public on how to protect themselves from potentially devastating lung diseases. 01

“As our cyclists ride through Maine’s idyllic countryside, the impact and importance of things like air quality and lung health become extremely clear. Thanks to our Trek Across Maine participants and volunteers, we are one step closer to realizing a world free of lung disease.”

Just beyond the Perkins Cove draw bridge. 116-2 PERKINS COVE RD I OGUNQUIT, ME 207.646.5368 thewhistlingoyster.net

—Jeff Seyler, American Lung Association of the Northeast

Join the Farnsworth [Collective]! A dynamic group of art lovers and makers in the heart of Rockland, Maine. farnsworthmuseum.org/collective

01 Linda Sheehy, tradeshow manager at Artel; Anne Reis, Gould Academy Competition Program; Shelly Holmquist, graphic designer/product developer at Cape Shore; and Theresa Stevens 02 Chloe Londoño-Ayr and Greg McEwen, sales director at Bridge Preservation 03 Shawn McGlew, physician assistant at MaineGeneral Urology, and Wes McGlew 04 Matt Toutain, national accountant manager at IRIS USA, and Stuart Ferris 05 Rachel Brooks, registered nurse, and Kim Kibbey 06 Sara Lewis and Ann Koehler, photographer 07 Pete Frye and Tom Duncanson, transport manager at Irving Oil

maine | themainemag.com

236 MAIN STREET YA R M O U T H , M A I N E

207.847.0411

B R I C K YA R D H O L L O W.C O M

Photo Credit: 5iveLeaf Photography

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We know the state of Maine.

WHERE TO GO WHAT TO DO WHERE TO SHOP WHERE TO EAT

+ MORE

Need advice? Ask the experts.

Stonington, Photo by Peter Frank Edwards

e’ve been covering the state of Maine for years now and have gotten to know the people and places that make it such an incredibly exciting place to live and explore. We know how you can turn each moment you spend here into a lasting memory. When you’re ready to get out and about, ask for our expertise. We’ll point you in the right direction.

asktheexperts@themainemag.com

E VE N T S | S EPT EMBE R

8.31–9.9

BOOTHBAY HARBOR FEST Various times boothbayharborfest.com

9.7

THIS IS SO MAINE.

MAINE PRESERVATION’S 8TH ANNUAL GALA Maine Preservation 6 p.m.–9 p.m. Portland Masonic 415 Congress St. | Portland mainepreservation.org/gala

9.8–9.9

31ST LAUDHOLM NATURE CRAFTS FESTIVAL 10 a.m.–4 p.m. Wells Reserve at Laudholm 342 Laudholm Farm Rd. | Wells wellsreserve.org

9.11

SWING “FORE” THE CENTER PAUL GAY MEMORIAL GOLF TOURNAMENT Center for Grieving Children 11 a.m.–6 p.m. Purpoodock Golf Club 300 Spurwink Ave. | Cape Elizabeth cgcmaine.org/events/golf-tournament

9.13

BBCH OPEN GOLF TOURNAMENT Barbara Bush Children’s Hospital Various times Various locations fundraising.mmc.org/bbch-open

9.13–9.16

CAMDEN INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL Various times Points North Institute 5 Elm St. | Camden pointsnorthinstitute.org/ciff

WE DELIVER. Subscribe 207 772 3a373 themainemag.com/subscribe 24

maine | themainemag.com

You’ll find it here. 9.14–9.16

PORTLAND BACH FESTIVAL Various times Various locations portlandbachexperience.com

9.15–9.16

HARVEST AT THE HUT 4 p.m.–10 a.m. Maine Huts + Trails 496C Main St. | Kingfield mainehuts.org

9.29

16TH PUNKINFIDDLE FAMILY FESTIVAL 10 a.m.–2 p.m. Wells Reserve at Laudholm 342 Laudholm Farm Rd. | Wells wellsreserve.org

9.29–9.30

THE DEMPSEY CHALLENGE The Dempsey Center Various times Lewiston support.dempseychallenge.org

9.30 MAINE MARATHON 7:45 a.m. Portland mainemarathon.com

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CREATE

CRUISING TOWARD

HOPE After two memoirs, Portland author Kate Christensen returns to fiction

by Kate Gardner PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVE DOSTIE

The latest novel from PEN/Faulkner Award– winning author Kate Christensen takes readers on a cruise ship journey that goes from decadent to disastrous

ate Christensen’s latest book is similar to her early work and at the same time nothing like it. The Last Cruise, released in July, is a return to Christensen’s novel-writing career, which took a back seat over the past several years as she wrote food memoirs. “It feels good to have a novel coming out again,” she says, “but it feels good to have taken that break.” During that period Christensen wrote Blue Plate Special and How to Cook a Moose, both of which “came out of my love of food and of Maine,” she says. Writing memoirs, which the Portland resident says she never intended to do, meant Christensen spent a lot of time looking inward and reflecting on her own life. The six novels she wrote

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prior to the memoirs were reflections on her personal experiences. The Last Cruise marks a new direction for the author by focusing more on social and political issues. After How to Cook a Moose came out in 2015, Christensen became consumed by politics. She says an “apocalyptic” feeling she was experiencing following President Donald Trump’s election inspired her latest book. “It came out of a feeling of foreboding and despair, but I still tried to make it entertaining and a page-turner,” she says. “It was the hardest thing I’ve ever written.” The Last Cruise tells the story of a Maine farmer who takes an ill-fated cruise to Hawaii on the ship’s planned last voyage. After researching numerous disasters that have

happened on cruise ships, Christensen says she developed plot and theme ideas for her book. “It’s a metaphor for what’s happening in America right now,” she says. “We’re on a cruise ship, and everything is about to go wrong.” Cruise ships are “a microcosm of the financial inequity and corporate cynicism I see in America,” Christensen says. Despite its gloomy inspirations, writing about the current social and political climate has been a way for Christensen to find hope. With everyone stuck on the ship, the only way to navigate disaster is as a team. Christensen says the same must happen in the country. “It’s high time we all start thinking communally,” she says. “We need to connect as much as we can. We really are all on this planet together.”

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INNOVATE

THE FUTURE OF

FISHING

The Gulf of Maine Research Institute educates students while protecting the state’s fisheries

by Kate Gardner PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVE DOSTIE

ehind the rows of tall glass windows looking out at Portland’s waterfront, the Gulf of Maine Research Institute (GMRI) is doing more than just research within its wet and analytical labs. The organization is fostering a love of marine science in children while also working to protect the future of the fishing industry. GMRI’s digital learning lab, LabVenture, opened 13 years ago, and since then it has served 125,000 students from every part of the state. “Our aspiration is to provide kids, no matter where they woke up in the morning, with access to world-class, hands-on science in the middle of a working research lab,” says Don Perkins, president and CEO of the organization. In 2015 GMRI received a $6.5 million grant from NASA to renovate the space and expand its offerings. The renovation, set to be completed in September, 28

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will bring updated technology into the lab and provide more hands-on learning opportunities for students, including large touchscreen workstations. As students work on “emerging marine stewardship challenges,” such as how to make fisheries more sustainable, Perkins says the goal is to show them what they’re each capable of and to keep them interested in science. “In the act of doing real science, they realize that this is something they can do,” he says. “This is a career option for them.” At the same time, GMRI is working to make sure the marine and fishing industries will still be viable when these kids grow up. Researchers at GMRI are tracking global climate change information and using it to understand the impact that may be felt in

the Gulf of Maine. As Maine works through the challenges of climate change, Perkins says GMRI is learning how to “diversify our economic opportunities in coastal communities.” The organization is helping fishermen use aquaculture to cultivate oysters, scallops, kelp, and salmon. Adapting to change is difficult, Perkins says, but it’s what fishermen are good at. “Fishing is highly cyclical, so fishermen need that flexibility to find what’s in abundance,” he says. “Historically they’ve been very diversified.” Being open to new methods is important economically for the fishing industry, as well as ecologically for the various species, Perkins says. Being prepared for change not only helps fisheries today, but it ensures the industry will be strong when the children at GMRI’s lab potentially enter the field as adults.

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EXPLORE

Hitting the Trail by Kate Gardner // PHOTOGRAPHY BY PETER FRANK EDWARDS

The Down East Sunrise Trail has options for all, regardless of how they travel

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he footprints, tire treads, and hoof marks on the Down East Sunrise Trail mark not only the number of people who utilize the 88-mile trail but the many ways in which they traverse it. The multiuse trail, which stretches from Ellsworth to Ayers Junction in Pembroke, is open to many forms of recreation, including walking, running, bicycling, ATV riding, and horseback riding. In the winter, this list expands to include cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and snowmobiling. The scenic trail takes travelers through wooded areas, past bogs and rivers, and through small coastal towns. The first six miles of the trail in Ellsworth are a crushed concrete surface, which is conducive for all modes of transportation, says Steve

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Lead Lead Event Event Event Sponsors Sponsors Sponsors Rees, theLead Sunrise Trail Coalition president. Once the trail turns to gravel, he says, narrow-tire bicycles aren’t the best choice. Instead, he advises travelers to use hybrid or mountain bikes to navigate the bumpy surface, and to pack a pair of padded cycling gloves to wear on the rockier sections.

Riders on ATVs can complete the trail in one day, Rees says, but most people, especially those on foot or horse, travel only a section of it. Lodging in the towns along the way allows visitors to spend multiple days on the trail. Near Cherryfield there’s also the option of one of half a dozen sites at a first-come, first-served campground, and in fact, according to Rees, people can camp anywhere along the trail.

The trail runs through several small towns that have food and rest stops, and Rees says the trail has clear signage indicating how far away the next stop is. The first The trail is open 24/7 and closes only in threeSupporting towns with Event amenities, Franklin, the case of severe mud or bad weather, Supporting Supporting Event Event Sponsors Sponsors Sponsors Cherryfield, and Machias, are relatively but Rees says people should always check close together with smaller towns in online before making the trip. While between, but the trail then becomes very the trail was mostly used by locals when Food Food Food &&Beverage Beverage & Beverage Sponsors Sponsors rural for “many, many miles,”Sponsors Rees says. it opened in 2010, it now draws hikers, The next stop is in the Dennysville area, campers, and wildlife enthusiasts from all more than 30 miles from Machias. over Maine.

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September 2018 31

BOOTHBAY, DAMARISCOTTA + WISCASSET in 48 Hours KATE GARDNER ASSOCIATE EDITOR 01

With dozens of locally owned shops and endless waterfront dining options, the Boothbay region is the place to be come summertime.

FRIDAY EVENING

Fisherman’s dinner and live music When my boyfriend, Chris, and I arrive at the Topside Inn in Boothbay Harbor, we’re greeted with glasses of prosecco and warm homemade cookies. It’s the inn’s first weekend of the season, and owners Mark Osborn and Buzz Makarewicz give us a tour. We’re staying in room eight, which was recently remodeled and is stunning. With a private entrance and a deck overlooking the bay, the room has a spacious soaking tub in the sitting area, a double-vanity bathroom, and a comfy king-size bed. After we settle in, we make our way to Robinson’s Wharf in Southport for a classic Maine dinner. Chris orders the lobster roll, and I spring for the Maine Shore Dinner, which includes clam chowder, corn on the cob, steamers, and a 1¼-pound lobster. The atmosphere is laid‑back and comfortable, and the food is simple yet delicious. We can’t help but indulge in a warm brownie sundae after our meal.

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When we finish eating we head downstairs, where The Grown Ups are playing and locals are dancing. We sit at the bar and order the Thirsty Botanist from Boothbay Craft Brewery.

SATURDAY MORNING

Oceanside driving We consider going out to breakfast but change our minds after we enter the inn’s main building. In addition to the spread of fruit, toast, and yogurt, banana waffles are being made to order. After we eat, we drive to the Southport General Store for coffee. We continue along Route 27 and loop through Newagen on the southern tip of Southport Island. The sun is shining, and we drive with the windows down as the ocean air fills the car. We make a pit stop near Hendricks Head Beach to take in the gorgeous panorama and the view to Hendricks Head Lighthouse.

AFTERNOON

Food and shopping farther up the coast It’s our first time in Damariscotta, and as we drive over the bridge leading to the cozy downtown, I notice its charm. We check out a number of shops, my favorites being the Accessories Shop and Sherman’s Maine Coast Book Shop and Cafe. The former has adorable home goods and a wide array of lotions and bath products, and the bookstore has a great selection of titles by national and local authors. I buy a book before we head over to the cafe side and order a cold-brew coffee that really hits the spot. For lunch we head to King Eider’s Pub, which has a slew of seafood options as well as sandwiches and burgers. Chris orders the smoked salmon BLT, and I get the biggest lobster roll I’ve ever seen. The juicy meat is spilling out of the split-top bun, and the fries are golden and delicious. After lunch I’m craving ice cream, so we drive five minutes away from the downtown area to the highly recommended Round Top Ice Cream Stand. Located in what looks like an old barn, the simple shop has a huge selection of flavors, all homemade. I opt for a

48 HOURS 02

01 The Boothbay Harbor Footbridge. 02 Sunset over the harbor from the Footbridge. 03 A cocktail from Split Rock Distilling at Topside Inn. 04 An ice cream cone at Round Top Ice Cream in Damariscotta. 05 A lobster roll and fries at King Eider’s Pub in Damariscotta. 06 The Thistle Inn in Boothbay Harbor. 07 Buddy the black lab at Two Salty Dogs in Boothbay Harbor. 08 A sunny Saturday morning in Boothbay Harbor. small mint chocolate-chip cone, which has three heaping scoops, and enjoy it on the sunny back porch.

are lying on the floor, eager to be petted, which I’m all too happy to do.

EVENING

We head back to Boothbay Harbor to check out a few shops before they close. I’ve been to the town only in the mobbed summer months, and it’s nice exploring the quiet streets in early May. The downtown area is only a two-minute walk from the Topside Inn, which is very convenient. As a dog lover, I’m drawn to Two Salty Dogs, a pet supply store. To my delight, two black labs

We also check out the Village Store, which has colorful home goods and kitchenware, and Sweet Bay, where I want to buy everything. The boutique shop has glassware, home decor, and a whole wall of Sea Bags. Then we check out some kitschy gift shops for fun and stop in at Enchantments for some magic.

Since it’s Topside Inn’s opening weekend, the owners are throwing a party for guests and friends. We’re served tasty hors d’oeuvres, and Split Rock Distilling is making blueberry vodka cocktails. After the party, we make the ten-minute walk to the Thistle Inn for dinner. Along the way we stop to walk along the Boothbay

Spirits and upscale dining

September 2018 33

48 HOURS

02 02

02 03

01 A display of Sea Bags at Sweet Bay in Boothbay Harbor. 02 A basket of fried clams at Red’s Eats in Wiscasset. 03 The Southport Island swing bridge.

Harbor Footbridge, which cuts through the harbor. It’s a beautiful spot to watch the sunset as it reflects across the water. The Thistle Inn is dark and cozy. Chris orders the baked haddock stuffed with crabmeat, which he enjoys immensely, and I get the seared diver scallops, which are served over lemon risotto and have a sweet-yet-tangy maple-citron glaze. The subtle honey flavor of the Save the Bees cocktail pairs perfectly with the lemon notes in our meals. After dinner we look for a laid-back place to relax before turning in for the night. We stop at Mine Oyster and drink Boothbay Craft Brewery beers on the deck overlooking the water while the sound of the live music inside floats out to us.

SUNDAY MORNING

Ocean views and garden rain We eat another delicious breakfast at the inn, although it’s much different from yesterday’s. The kitchen staff has prepared fish cake Benedict and arugula and pear salad with warm bacon vinaigrette. I’m skeptical of having fish for breakfast, but the meal is exceptional. When we’re done eating, we walk down to Red Cup Coffeehouse for a smooth cup of cold-brew coffee. We say our goodbyes to Mark and Buzz, then take a drive around Ocean Point Loop in East Boothbay. The homes lining the rocky shores are gorgeous, and the views are even better. The road is narrow and

winding, creating the perfect excuse to drive slowly and look out at the water. It’s lightly drizzling, but we still stop the car every five minutes to get out and walk along the rocks. Before leaving Boothbay Harbor, we have to check out Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens. The newly constructed visitor center and pedestrian bridge are beautiful, and the gardens are a peaceful retreat from the outside world. Not everything is in bloom yet, but the greenery and the bubbling fountains are so relaxing.

AFTERNOON

Eating good in Wiscasset There is only one thing on my to-do list when we arrive in Wiscasset, and it’s a must: lunch at Red’s Eats. We join the infamously long line, which isn’t too bad today because of the rain, and wait about 20 minutes to order. Chris, ever health conscious, orders a grilled haddock sandwich, but I go all in and get the fried clam bellies with a side of fries. The clams are huge and hands down the best I’ve ever tasted. I’m on cloud nine. Happy and full, we totter over to the newly opened Creamed Baking Co. for homemade ice cream. As a lover of Shakespeare and mint chocolate-chip, I order the Mint Summer Night’s Dream in a waffle cone, and it is heavenly. Now even more full, we peek into some shops, most of which are still closed for the season. My favorite is Rock Paper Scissors, a fun paper store, where I drool over journals and notepads. We start the drive home to Portland and talk about coming back up as soon as we can.

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YORK + KITTERY

in 48 Hours

DANIELLE DEVINE EDITOR, MAINE HOME+DESIGN MAGAZINE 01

Summer is the perfect time for a trip to southern Maine to explore York’s beaches and trails and Kittery’s flourishing culinary scene and boutiques.

FRIDAY EVENING

Bountiful welcome My husband and I are off to York and Kittery to visit some of the places we’ve had on our to-do list for over 15 years. My in-laws live in York, and they have graciously agreed to host the kids and dog so we can take some time for ourselves. We initially thought we might have our dog, Merlin, with us, so we booked a dog-friendly room in the Harbor Crest Building of the York Harbor Inn. We discover that the room would have really catered to our furry family member, with a luxury dog bed, placemat, dog bowls, and treats. Tonight we’re having dinner at The Central Restaurant and Bar. There’s a short wait, as reservations are not accepted at this small eatery, but the hostess suggests we sneak around the corner to their sister establishment, The Central Bean and Bakery, for a drink. I opt for a rosé (it’s spring after

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all), and my husband, Ryan, gets a local beer that’s on tap. We sit back and relax with our drinks while my phone charges (there are outlets at all the seats!) so I can capture the night. Once we’re seated at the Central Restaurant, owner Kiersten Mayes greets us and offers some recommendations for our meal. We start with a few small plates. My favorite is the Louisiana-style fried shrimp paired with two dipping sauces: an Asianfusion mango and a house ranch dressing. It is the perfect mix of savory and sweet. My husband, Ryan, prefers the “Dam Big” roasted oysters plucked from the Damariscotta River and topped with ginger-scallion ponzu and crunchy panko bread crumbs. For our third plate we select the Mexican street corn croquettes with lime crema and cotija cheese, topped with cilantro. It reminds of us of the traditional Mexican street food we had on vacation a few years ago. We’re almost full, but out comes our entree: bucatini with clams and the most perfect, buttery white wine sauce (thankfully we decided to split). Kiersten does not let us leave without a bag full of the house-made chocolate-chip cookies. When we get back to the inn we check out the Ship’s

Cellar Pub downstairs, where live music is playing. We order a nightcap and plan our Saturday.

SATURDAY MORNING

Bagels, candy, and Nubble Since this is not our first time in York, we know the best place to go for bagels is the Bagel Basket. Ryan’s cousin, Chloe, happens to be working this morning. We walk out with a bag full of bagels and a selection of cream cheeses to bring back to the rest of the family. After breakfast we take the kids and Merlin to check out Cape Neddick Light, known as Nubble Light. The girls enjoy jumping along the rocky grounds while taking in the view of the iconic lighthouse. Next we head to Short Sands Beach to see if the old-school arcade Fun-O-Rama is open for the season. Unfortunately, it’s closed, but that doesn’t stop us from exploring the surrounding scene. We soon spot the bright pink bike with balloons parked in front of Sweet Josie’s Candy Shoppe. We walk in and feel like we’re in a

48 HOURS 02

01 Corned beef hash at Rick’s Restaurant in York. 02 Cape Neddick Light, known as Nubble Light. 03 The exterior of Lost Coast and Next features a mural by artists Ryan Adams and Rachel Manly. 04 Clams two ways and an overstuffed lobster roll at Bob’s Clam Hut in Kittery. 05 The dog-friendly Harbor Crest Inn is located a half-mile from the York Harbor Inn. 06 Gift baskets at Stonewall Kitchen’s Company Store in York, Maine. candy dream. The store opened in 1979 and still has that penny-candy-store vibe. After about 30 minutes we leave with a selection of saltwater taffy, homemade fudge, and bin candy. Our next stop is Long Sands Beach. Everyone is thrilled to walk along the shore—the girls dig in the sand, and Merlin runs free and makes friends along the way.

AFTERNOON

Exploring Kittery’s finest The kids are hungry, and we have the perfect solution: Flo’s Hot Dogs, which has been serving steamed hot dogs along Route 1 in Cape Neddick since the 1950s. We order three dogs with ketchup and Flo Sauce (a secret-recipe relish).

We drop off the kids and dog with their grandparents, and we’re off to Bob’s Clam Hut for our lunch. It’s our first visit to this legendary seafood shack, and we find a seat outside in the sun and order the clams “two ways” and a lobster roll. The lobster roll is overflowing with sweet delicious meat in a traditional bun. But it’s the clams that we’ll be coming back for soon. For years Bob, the owner, had made his fried clams dredged in flour with no seasoning and paired them with his signature tartar sauce. Then in 1986 Lillian Mangos joined the staff, and she insisted on dipping the clams in egg wash before dredging them in flour. We tasted both, and although it’s hard to decide, we’re leaning toward Team Lillian. At the end of the meal we cleanse our palates with a scoop of Rococo Ice Cream’s goat cheese Chambord flavor. The Kittery Foreside neighborhood has gained a lot

of attention in recent years because of its exciting boutiques, galleries, and eclectic dining. Our first stop is Tayla Mac, which offers a remarkable selection of pieces by local designers, baby items, and clothing. I’m immediately drawn to the T-shirts and walk out with a new “Mama Bird” shirt. Next we head to the boutique Folk, which is filled with clothes by some of my favorite designers such as Ilana Kohn, Ace and Jig, and Black Crane. I make a note to come back on my own to fill out my summer wardrobe. While we’re in Folk we hear that we must visit Tributary Brewing Company and try a limitedrelease stout, Mott the Lesser, if there is any still available. When we get to the brewery, there’s not only outside seating but also a live band. Mott the Lesser is still on tap and does not disappoint, with an 11-percent alcohol content that goes down smoothly.

September 2018 43

HOME PORT BOUND

01 Across the street from the York Harbor Inn is the Hartley Mason Reserve and this sculpture by Sumner Winebaum titled Pleasure Ground. 02 It’s the perfect day to enjoy drinks outside at Tributary Brewing Company. Before we head back to the hotel we stop by the famous mural building that houses the vintage shops Lost Coast and Nest. Lost Coast is closed for the week, but we find some vintage barstools at Nest that might be a nice addition to our home.

Kitchen in York. The walls are lined with syrups, jams, chutneys, jellies, mustards, and sauces—even better, there are tasting stations to try all of the flavors. We pick up a few favorites to bring to the grandparents to thank them for watching our flock this weekend.

EVENING

Before we get onto the highway, we pull over for one last stop at When Pigs Fly bakery. After the kids sample a few different fruit breads, they decide on a loaf of harvest bread with apples, raisins, walnuts, and seeds, and we continue on our way home, thankful to have checked off so many places on our to-do list.

Dinner with the Walkers Husband-and-wife team chef Justin Walker and Danielle Johnson Walker recently opened Walkers Maine in Cape Neddick. The decor is rustic-modern, with a stone fireplace in the middle surrounded by cozy seating. I start with the cocktail Spring Forward, made with Tito’s vodka, lime, cucumber, and Maine Root Ginger Brew. Ryan gets the Arborist’s Desire, a mix of Four Roses bourbon, black birch, clementine, and clove. We order a medley of dishes, including a whole roasted cauliflower with nigella seeds, honey, thyme, and crispy garlic (we promise each other we’ll try to duplicate it at home), wood-fired Japanese eggplant, hearth-roasted yams topped with feta, and tuna tostadas with bacon aioli, avocado, and cotija. We settle on smoked duck and pork for our entrees, and they are all we could have desired. The meal ends with a down-home and fulfilling banana cream pie.

SUNDAY MORNING

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For years we have heard rave reviews about the homemade corned beef hash at Rick’s Restaurant in York. When we walk in we’re greeted by several animal heads made from newspaper papier-mâché. Although we consider each getting something different, we both settle on the hash with eggs and toast. It’s just what we need to sustain us during our hike.

SHOPPING

We summit Mount Agamenticus by following the 3.2-mile Bear Loop, which follows old roads and rock walls. It is a lovely way to start the day and take in the view of the White Mountains.

ANNUAL EVENTS

AFTERNOON Tasty goods to go

Before we pick up the family to head back to Portland, we stop at the headquarters of Stonewall 44

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Daisy Trading 388 Route One York, Maine 03909 207.363.7941 daisytrading.com Daisy Jane’s 250 York Street York, Maine 03909 207.363.2242 daisyjanes.com The Lazy Daisy 45 Shore Road Ogunquit, Maine 03907 207.641.2820 lazydaisyclothing.com

Kittery | Eliot | York | South Berwick | Cape Neddick

Bell Farm Shops is more than a gift shop, it’s an experience. We sell unique gifts, garden decor, home decor, jewelry, wild bird supply & so much more. We carry locally made products and make gift giving easy by selling cards and providing a wrapping station to make it a one-stop-shop. We are located on Route 1 in a beautiful red barn surrounded with idyllic gardens. 244 us route 1, york, maine | 207.363.8181 | bellfarmshops.com

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Thank you Harvestfest Major Sponsors:

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Tastings & Tours Visit Maine's Nationally Ranked Craft Distillery 441 US ROUTE 1 • 19 RAILROAD AVENUE, YORK, ME 03909 207.363.9322 Book Tastings & Tours at WigglyBridgeDistillery.com

This festival includes a variety of activities, and performers including The Don Campbell Band and Friends, Dan Blakeslee as Dr. Gasp, Mad Science of Maine, 150 local food vendors, juried crafters and marketplace vendors from all over New England. Harvestfest includes Kidsfest; look for story telling, a roaming railroad, pumpkin carving and stroll, face painting, horse-drawn carriage rides, games and activities for kids of all ages! FMI 207.363.4422 or www.yorkharvestfest.com

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From the kitchen to the dining room. Susan Axelrod, a former restaurateur and now Food Editor, writes about one of her great passions: amazing meals. @eatmaine + themainemag.com

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A-LIST by Kate Gardner Photography by Heidi Kirn

LIBRARIES Back-to-school season means it’s time to hit the books. With beautiful architecture and an array of interesting events, Maine’s many libraries offer room to learn and have fun. Boothbay Harbor Memorial Library | Boothbay Harbor

Built in the 1840s as a Greek Revival temple-style home originally, this library is located in downtown Boothbay Harbor. If you’re without a library card, head to the library’s adjacent used bookstore to take some reads home.

Merrill Memorial Library | Yarmouth

Following a massive renovation in 2014, this brick library in the heart of Yarmouth’s downtown has a historic feel with modern touches. The space serves as a community hub with lectures and workshops and also plays host to the Merrill Film Society.

Raymond H. Fogler Library | Orono

With more than three million books and print documents, the Raymond H. Fogler Library has no shortage of material to get lost in. Although it’s located on the University of Maine campus, the library is open to the public as well as students and faculty.

Blue Hill Public Library | Blue Hill

When the Blue Hill Public Library first opened in 1796, it occupied the corner of a grocery store where the grocer doubled as the librarian. A women’s group reopened the library in the 1860s after it had been closed for 20 years and relocated it in the town hall by 1895. The library continued to grow over the years and now is home to over 40,000 items.

Ogunquit Memorial Library | Ogunquit

With its fieldstone facade, arched wooden doorway, and tall tower, this 1897 library looks like a small castle. The inside is just as charming, and its fireplace makes it a cozy place to curl up with a book.

Jesup Memorial Library | Bar Harbor

Located near downtown Bar Harbor, this library is a community hub that hosts book signings, concerts, and writers’ groups. In addition to lending books, the library, which has an astronomy club, also has a telescope patrons can borrow.

Portland Public Library | Portland

With four locations and a bookmobile, Portland Public Library is the state’s oldest and largest public library system. The main branch—a modern building with a glass facade facing Monument Square—hosts book events with wellknown authors and contains an art gallery.

Waterville Public Library | Waterville

The Waterville Public Library won a National Medal for Museum and Library Science in 2017 for offering services beyond lending books and media. The library provides workshops on college applications and financial aid and offers weekly job-search labs.

Opposite: The Greek Revival entrance to the Boothbay Harbor Memorial Library. September 2018 51

BECOMING

JANE

DAHMEN 52

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How the Newcastle artist went from doubting her work to seeing her brightly painted birches hanging in galleries across the state by Kate Gardner Photography by Matt Cosby

efore she was Jane Dahmen the artist, Jane Dahmen was uncertain about how her passion factored into her life. She was a wife, a mother, and a college graduate. The nagging question she kept coming back to, though, was whether she was an artist. She painted, so surely she must have been. But her name and her art were not known. She didn’t sell her work, and it didn’t hang in galleries. She just snuck time here and there to push a brush across a canvas. When Dahmen applied to be shown in a gallery in her early thirties and had to write her occupation on her application, she felt uncertain because her job was raising her kids: “I’m a housewife who paints, so I figured I’d call myself an artist,” she says some 40 years later. The gallery owners didn’t agree: they said she was just a housewife with a hobby. Dahmen grabbed her work and cried as she drove back home to her husband and two kids. Dahmen felt conflicted about whether to continue painting. Not only was she doubting her talent, but she says it felt selfish to take time away from her children to focus on her passion. In the end, the judges’ criticism made her more determined. “I

knew that, not only could I call myself an artist, but I could do good work,” she says. Calling herself an artist wasn’t easy, and it was something Dahmen continued to struggle with for years. She initially kept her artist identity in a box separate from her mother and wife identities, she says, because it was easier to see the different roles that way. Over time she learned that it was possible to be two things at once, even if they seemed contradictory. “I’m a mother, I’m a wife, I’m a painter, but they all have to be integrated,” she says. “It’s important because they’re all part of who I am.” Calling yourself what you are makes you stronger, she says, because you’ll have less doubt when people try to undermine you. Following this mindset eventually allowed Dahmen, a Newcastle resident, to hang her work in galleries and make a living as a painter. Before moving to Maine, she painted images from out on the water looking toward land. Over the past couple of decades, though, she has developed a fondness for painting images through trees, looking toward the water. Her signature style features thin, willowy birch trees in the forefront of canvases that are often taller than she is. “It’s interesting what triggers

Opposite: Artist Jane Dahmen picks lavender from her garden at her Newcastle home, which also contains her painting studio. This page: Dahmen holds freshly picked lavender.

September 2018 53

Clockwise from top left: Dahmen works on a painting of birch trees, one of her favorite subjects. Dahmen’s studio is where she spends most days at work. Dahmen paints a colorful landscape. Opposite: Dahmen walks down to the Damariscotta River behind her home. She says she’s often inspired by Maine’s coast.

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September 2018 55

your creative juices,” she says. “I find I’m always triggered in Maine. I’ll be sitting on my friend’s porch and look out and think I just have to paint that.” Being a painter has also allowed Dahmen to live life her own way. “I felt it was important to live my life even if it wasn’t how other people did it,” she says. This means fully integrating art into her life (she hosts artist talks at Damariscotta’s Lincoln Theater) and teaching her children to think creatively. The Dahmen household had no television (much to her children’s dismay), but vacations were carefree and involved bicycling around Europe with no itinerary. “We were without a plan, always,” she says. Marching to her own beat has seeped into Dahmen’s work as well, because as she says, there’s no distinction between

herself and her art self. Her colorful landscapes, most of which have been of Maine in the 18 years she’s lived here, and still life paintings reflect who she is and how she thinks. She says the images and their colors aren’t always true to life, but they’re in line with her own thoughts and ideas. “You can risk making a fool of yourself by being completely honest about how you see the world,” she says. Despite this risk, Dahmen enjoys her style. If anything, she wishes it were more alternative. “I wish it was more unconventional, my art, but I’m always striving to express myself in a way that’s unique to me,” she says. Dahmen has found that most of her work comes out looking bright and happy, contradicting the notion that great work must come from a place of suffering. At times, this has made her question the worthiness of her work. As she’s gotten older, though, she’s

Dahmen stands outside of her home near the Damariscotta River. She and her husband moved to Maine 18 years ago. Opposite: Dahmen started painting in her twenties. Now, in her seventies, Dahman has work in numerous private and corporate collections around the world.

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September 2018 57

realized that notion is not true. “My work sometimes looks happy, and people like it because it makes them happy, and I want to accept that,” Dahmen says. “I want to stop maligning that. Just because I create happy work doesn’t mean I haven’t suffered.” Dahmen says art has always been her way of coping and working through issues. For that reason, she says, the process of finding inspiration, developing an idea, and actually painting brings her more joy and satisfaction than seeing the finished piece. “I love being in my studio every day, struggling to make something that satisfies me,” she says. “I need to be engaged. I don’t know what I’d do if I didn’t have this.” That urge to paint is what has gotten Dahmen where she is today, and it’s what will keep her in her studio until she’s no longer physically able to create. “Life can be a long life, and it’s great to have a passion,” she says. As a painter—and a mother, a wife, a Mainer—she has no intention of slowing down.

From top: Dahmen washes lavender in her sink. Plants and nature are often present in her paintings. A pile of paintbrushes and tools in Dahmen’s studio.

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J A N E

D A H M E N

M aine Landscape & Still Life Artist

J A N E D A H M E N . C O M Co l o r Co a s t |

72 x 60

| Ac r ylic o n Two P a n e l s

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2018 â&#x20AC;˘ 7:45 AM â&#x20AC;˘ PORTLAND, MAINE

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FARM FEATS ON THE

FAIRWAY BY SANDY L ANG PHOTOGRAPHY BY PETER FRANK EDWARDS

EVERY SEPTEMBER SINCE 1868, THE WEEKLONG CUMBERLAND FAIR HAS DRAWN CROWDS TO SEE ITS AGRICULTURAL TRIUMPHS—THE BIGGEST PUMPKIN, THE GLOSSIEST-FEATHERED HEN, THE STRONGEST OXEN TEAM—AND MODERN ATTRACTIONS, SUCH AS MONSTER TRUCKS AND LASER TAG.

Greg Larrabee and his Holstein team on the way to the pulling competitions at the Cumberland Fair. Longtime fair president Mike Timmons says the nearly 150-year-old fair is “about what was, what is, and what needs to be happening in agriculture.”

“ G ET IN THERE AND GRAB YOUR BACON!” “ YOU’VE GOT TO DIVE!” The fans are standing now, clapping and yelling from the bleachers in the Pulling Arena. Eight young pigs have just been let loose onto the dusty floor, and they’re scattering and squealing in all directions while the same number of boys and girls chase after them. This is the Pig Scramble, and the challenge is to catch one of the swine however you can—typically by the back legs—and get it back into a burlap sack. The winner gets to take the pig home to raise. It’s just one of hundreds of agricultural events and contests at the mammoth, weeklong Cumberland Fair, which attracts up to 10,000 people a day to the fairgrounds in Cumberland—effectively doubling the population of this town ten miles north of Portland. Organized by the Cumberland Farmers’ Club, the fair will be held this year on September 23 through 29. 62

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Produced each year by the Cumberland Farmers’ Club, the Cumberland Fair features pig races and calf-roping competitions (above, top) along with harness racing on a half-mile track (above, bottom). In the Pig Scramble contest (left), the winner’s prize is a pig in a sack to take home to raise. A 10-year-old from Gorham who won says he’d name his pig “Maple.”

September 2018 63

“ IF WE EVER LOSE FAIRS, WE’LL LOSE A BIT OF OUR STATE.”

Organizers say many fair-goers drive the ten miles north from Portland or from other nearby towns, including Windham, Gorham, and Pownal. Past fairs have hosted the Budweiser Clydesdales, Canadian Mounties, beauty queens, and racing champions. A sheep (above) in the livestock barns. (Opposite, clockwise from top left) Sights include a Ferris wheel, pickles in the home-canning contest, and illuminated carnival rides.

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Participants compete in the fairâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Pulling Arena.

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FOOD, FOWL, 4-H. The action is tamer in the realm of the horse paddocks, University of Maine Cooperative Extension 4-H barns, and show rings located just off the midway. Other structures on the over-100-acre fairgrounds are lined with stalls for milk cows, steers, draft horses, goats, sheep, pigs, and all manner of poultry and waterfowl, from chickens and turkeys to ducks, geese, and quail. On the midway itself, a Ferris wheel turns, other rides spin, and whiffs of cotton candy, french fries, and barbecued turkey drumsticks float in the air with the sparkle of dust. Near a rise of bleachers and a field house are the rhythmic sounds of horse hooves rounding the half-mile dirt track in a harness race. Tradition reigns at the Cumberland Fair. On one of the fair nights, several men are organizing the bean-hole baked bean cookery. They have dug a hole near the oval dirt track and lit a wood fire large enough to get ample hot coals for keeping a cast-iron pot of beans cooking overnight. Antique tractors roll past, and visitors can watch noisy vintage farm machines splitting wood and grinding corn. There’s a maple sugaring house and a blacksmith shed, both with live demonstrations. And forklifts are needed to move the nearly car-sized pumpkins at the Maine State Pumpkin and Squash WeighOff. The biggest are often in the range of 800 to 1,000 pounds. “If we ever lose fairs, we’ll lose a bit of our state,” says educator and longtime fair president Mike Timmons, 76, who recalls having missed only two years of the Cumberland Fair, when he was in Orono for college. The former principal of Windham High School, Timmons lives steps away from fair offices. And he notes that the fairgrounds are now kept in use year-round: for the Vintage Bazaar, dog shows, a children’s circus, and other events. Organized to attract families, the Cumberland Fair as an introduction to agriculture, according to Timmons, and his hope is that, for some of the youngest visitors, “It may even spur a lifetime interest in farming.”

Taylor Davis of South Portland and Luke Weiser of Lebanon touring the poultry barns (left). “Every year we come to the fair,” Davis says. “I’ve already seen some other kids from my school.” And Weiser says his family raises chickens, and he’s even taken a pet rooster on the family sailboat, noting “that chicken has its sea legs.” During a demonstration in the blacksmith shed (top right), Sam Simonson explains that “if the iron’s black, it won’t move. If it’s red or orange, it will.”

THE 32ND ANNUAL SPURWINK HUMANITARIAN AWARDS Friday, October 12, 2018 | 6:00PM-9:00PM Brick South, Thompsonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Point Celebrate honorees who have gone the distance for others in need with an evening of cocktails, dinner, awards, and auction. 2018 Event Honorees Humanitarian Award - Danielle M. Conway, Dean & Professor of Law, University of Maine School of Law Corporate Care Award - Sun Life Financial Going the Distance Award - Richard Tryon, BA, MDiv, MSW, LCSW, Co-Founder and Former Executive Director of Community Partners, Inc.

Information & Tickets: www.spurwink.org/humanitarian | (207) 871-1211 ext. 2106 Thank you to our sponsors! Boulos Asset Management

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2018 GrowSmart Maine Summit | Oct. 11, Bangor â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Power Of Localism: Tapping Into a Maine Traditionâ&#x20AC;? Featuring Bruce Katz, formerly of the Brookings Institution, author of the book The New Localism Generously Sponsored By: Bangor Savings Bank | Elmina B. Sewall Foundation | CEI growsmartmaine.org

F E R RY, HARBOR, Q UA R RY, LOVE Catching the boat for an end-of-summer visit to Vinalhaven, a granite island about 12 miles offshore from Rockland BY SANDY LANG PHOTOGRAPHY BY PETER FRANK EDWARDS

keep finding myself looking for the little black cat—the one written about by author Margaret Wise Brown, who spent more than a dozen summers on Vinalhaven and who penned The Little Fisherman, Goodnight Moon, and dozens of other classic children’s books. Her story The Little Island sticks with me the most. I could always picture the boats, and the island where “seaweed squeaked at low tide” and “herring and mackerel leaped out of the water all silver in the moonlight.” Finally, I have come to Vinalhaven to see for myself. We caught one of the six-a-day ferry crossings from Rockland on an early September morning of blues and grays, from the sky to the horizon to the water of Penobscot Bay. The boat had motored from the harbor past the Rockland Breakwater Light, and in another hour or so, the 12.5-mile bay crossing brought us near the southwest shoreline of Vinalhaven and threaded through the smaller islands just offshore. Vinalhaven is about the size of Manhattan, but there’s not a skyscraper in sight. September 2018 73

T I DA L WA S H The ferry docks in Carvers Harbor, which is lined with bobbing sailboats, fishing boats, and dinghies on moorings. It’s the kind of harbor that feels cozy and protected because its entire span is visible from shore to shore. We grab our duffel bags—I’m traveling with photographer Peter Frank Edwards—and we start following the shoreline road by foot. The harbor narrows in a V-shape converging at the town’s Main Street buildings, and at the very center of the “V” we find the Tidewater, the motel where we’ll be staying. The lodging’s structure is an overwater marvel. On the former site of a granite-polishing mill, the small motel’s primary building bridges the only passage between the harbor and its tidal estuary, Carver’s Pond. Flowing with

the tides, water washes in and out twice a day through the channel. From a vantage point on the Tidewater side of Main Street, and soon from the other side beside the Harbor Gawker restaurant, we watch the rushing seawater until the smells of seafood and french fries draws us inside. Housed in what was once a bowling alley, the restaurant has a wood-paneled interior, and its menu is written on boards overhead and beside the counter; it’s an old-school fish house with vintage lobster traps overhead and red checkered tablecloths. We order up haddock fish tacos, lobster stew (a steamy milk broth brimming with claw and tail meat), and a basket of deep-fried clams and scallops. I notice a lot of smiling and chatting between tables—it feels

Previous spread: A late-summer day on the wharves of Carvers Harbor on Vinalhaven. Opposite: A harborside boathouse on Vinalhaven. This page: Exploring the walking trails of the 45-acre Lane’s Island Preserve, which is connected to the island by a causeway and managed by the Nature Conservancy and the town of Vinalhaven.

September 2018 75

as if most of the customers and staff all already know each other. That makes sense, especially when I learn that every meal that month is sort of a farewell. After serving meals for more than 40 years and having been owned by generations of Mortons, a local family, the restaurant would be permanently closing at the end of the season. (A couple, Lauren and Brian Weisenthal, have since opened a new restaurant in the space, the Nightingale.) Just down Main Street, the dominant building is the pale yellow former Odd Fellows hall known as the Star of Hope Lodge. We’re drawn to it, naturally. At three stories tall, the Victorian manse with a center turret towers above the rest of the buildings. We could see it from the deck on the ferry as soon as we reached the mouth of the harbor. After visiting Vinalhaven in the 1970s, pop artist Robert Indiana (19282018) had left New York to buy the building for his home and studio and lived there year-round for decades. On the sidewalk out front is a steel version of Indiana’s HOPE sculpture with its tilted “O” (as in his earlier LOVE image, of poster and postage stamp fame). Behind it are four panels adorned in the peeling paint of rippling red, white, and blue flag designs. It’s striking to see these simple, iconic words and symbols— and to consider the meanings in the modern era—while on an island of just 1,200 or so people, miles from the Maine coast. Islands give space for deeper thinking, I believe.

Back at the Tidewater Motel, we chat with owner Phil Crossman about the island and its geography. He points to a map of Vinalhaven. “It’s nine miles across from here to here,” he says. “But how many miles of coastline do you think?” Crossman traces a Vinalhaven map with his finger. The irregular shape reminds me of Mount Desert Island. There are lobes and coves, peninsulas and islands just offshore. There’s a sheltered basin on the island’s western side that he notes is terrific for kayaking. And Browns Head Light on the northwest point is a guiding light for boats in the Fox Islands Thorofare, the channel between Vinalhaven and North Haven islands. The six-foot-four innkeeper explains that he made it a personal goal to walk the entire coast of Vinalhaven in a series of hikes, and it took him three years to complete all sections of the winding, jagged coastline. He logged the mileage, and the final tally was 268 miles. I’m already island-captivated as we make our way up two stair landings to the top floor and use the key (on a lobster buoy–shaped key chain) to open the door to room 19, the Crow’s Nest. From the harbor-facing room’s small outdoor deck, I look downward to see and hear the ocean water streaming past underneath. We’re certainly not adrift at the Tidewater, but I feel the distinct sensation of being on a boat.

The top-floor Crow’s Nest room at the Tidewater Motel, which overlooks Carvers Harbor. Opposite: A former Odd Fellows hall, this Main Street building was home and studio to artist Robert Indiana from 1978 until his death this spring. Per Indiana’s will, the manse will become a museum dedicated to his art.

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Opposite: Brother and sister Zach and Jess Sanborn at Zachâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Shack, a family-owned shop on Harbor Road that sells crafts, toys, and gifts. This page: During tide changes on Vinalhaven, seawater flows between Carvers Harbor and Carvers Pond.

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BU OY LES S O N S This is a lobstering island, and lobster fishermen seem to be everywhere—on the water and zooming past in trucks on island roads. The ferry accommodates cars but we arrived on foot, so we borrow bicycles from the motel to explore a bit further. With a folded map in my pocket, we pedal beyond Main Street and begin to get a little closer to Vinalhaven’s year-round lobstering culture among the coves, wooded trails, and shingled and clapboard houses. We pedal to Lane’s Island Preserve, owned by the Nature Conservancy, which juts out beyond the harbor. After we park the bikes and follow a path under trees, we come upon picnic tables on a cove and a line of kids who happen to be cartwheeling across the scene. On Round the Mountain Road, we see blackberries and wildflowers in bloom, and we eventually make it to a private pedestrian bridge that crosses Indian Creek at a house with lobster buoys and traps stacked all around. A sign from the owner indicates that it’s okay to use the bridge but advises that cyclists should dismount to cross safely. At Zach’s Shack on Old Harbor Road, we meet a couple of young entrepreneurs. The shop specializes wooden buoys and birdhouses, fanciful wooden sea creatures, books, toys, and other handmade and Maine-crafted items. I realize this is the source of the hand-painted mini-buoy keychains from the motel. The shop’s namesake is here: Zach Sanborn is a teenager with Down syndrome who paints many of the items and does other crafts, fishes on lob80

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ster boats, and competes in Special Olympics Maine for swimming. Zach’s sister, Jess Sanborn, is also at work inside and explains that they grew up visiting Vinalhaven with their family. From Dresden, their parents started fixing up a cottage on the property about 30 years ago, and after Zach found success selling seashells one summer, the family decided to retool a roadside shed on the property to create the shop, which opened in 2015. Their father, Stephen Sanborn, is a woodworker and had been building birdhouses with Zach, typically with old license plates as the metal roofs. The birdhouses are a big seller. And the family does custom work, including buoy “garlands” for the holidays, painted to order. All of these are replicas of actual buoys, the typically brightly-colored floats used to mark the locations of lobster traps. Each licensed fisherman or fisherwoman has his or her own color markings, and Jess explains how the shop is often able to return actual buoys to their owners. If a tourist finds a buoy washed up on the beach, the shopkeepers will offer a keychain in trade, and then display the buoy at the shop in hopes of returning it to the owner. While we’re talking, Chuck Williams, a lobsterman and rigger, stops by in his truck. He says the Sanborn family is “loaded with creativity” and asks to see the newest art pieces. His favorites are the wooden fish and sea monsters, he tells us. “I like the ones with the biggest eyes and the biggest teeth,” he says with a big smile, and Zach’s smiling, too.

Opposite, from left: A deep-fried seafood basket and grilled haddock tacos at the Harbor Gawker; the classic restaurant and island gathering place closed last year. North Haven oysters at the French-influenced Salt, also on Main Street. This page: Skiffs along Carvers Harbor docks.

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Phil Crossman traces a Vinalhaven map with his finger. “It’s nine miles across from here to here,” he says. “But how many miles of coastline do you think?”

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Walking along the moors and granite shoreline in Laneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Island Preserve, just southeast of Carvers Harbor on Vinalhaven.

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Q UA R RY S P L A S H In the morning we order coffees, a croissant, and a scone inside Downstreet Market, a handsome old apothecary-turned-bakery on Main Street with a pressed tin ceiling and built-in wooden shelves and cabinetry arrayed with vintage silver teapots, teacups, crystal wine glasses and cruets, and vintage and new linens, all for sale. We have the long wooden communal table to ourselves for a while, and every few minutes a baker emerges from the kitchen to set out a pie or another tray of muffins, scones, or croissants. I want to pedal again, and we do. Heading east, we stop at the large, green Victorian house with a low iron fence that’s home to Hedgewick, a source for island-grown flowers. Then, somewhere between the Main Street shops and Lane’s Island Preserve, we follow a trail lined

with ferns into Armbrust Hill Town Park. By noontime we’ve made our way to one of the island’s long-abandoned quarries, now used for swimming. Booth Quarry is a spring-fed pool in a former granite quarry with depths up to 50 feet. We watch as a teenage boy jumps off a high ledge and a younger kid dips his toe in the water and squeals at the cold temperature. The challenge is on. I’m wearing a swimsuit under my clothes for just this possibility. Swimming in the often chilly water of Maine is something I’ve learned to love—once I’m in. If you don’t jump quickly, you’ve got to work up to it. At Booth Quarry, I’m aided by a submerged ledge where one can stand in knee-deep water awhile and consider her options. Eventually, in the bright sun, I dive in with a splash—earning the bowl of seafood chowder we’ll pedal back for at the Harbor Gawker afterward.

Quarrying was at its height on Vinalhaven in the mid-1800s, and some of the former granite quarries are now swimming spots. Opposite: A cool-water swim at Booth Quarry, which is about 50 feet deep.

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September 2018 85

ON THE MAIN Later, returning to Vinalhaven’s Main Street, we also stop at Island Spirits for a bottle of Italian rosé. At the Creelman Farm Store I try a hot chai made with fresh goat milk (the owners have goats and a small dairy on the island), and then we check out the New Era Gallery’s collection, including beautiful paintings of Vinalhaven by Penobscot Bay–based artist Scott Moore. Over dinner at Salt Restaurant, we try a margarita and mojito (we’re on an island, after all), a dozen North Haven oysters on ice, and a crème brûlée to share. That night, from the Crow’s Nest at the Tide-

water, the land around the harbor looks like a pair of arms pulling everything in. Or is it that the tide is washing everything out? Observing Carvers Harbor on Vinalhaven over a couple of days has stoked my imagination. It’s hours past sunset, and the sky is blueblack above a few dozen glowing lights still lit in houses and buildings at edges of the harbor—almost like summer fireflies. Recalling again the storybook tales of Margaret Wise Brown, on Vinalhaven it’s another good night for the moon.

From left: Architectural sights on Vinalhaven. By ferry from Rockland, then on foot and bicycle, a couple days of late-summer exploring ends with a toast overlooking Carvers Harbor.

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EAT by Susan Axelrod Photography by Nicole Wolf

MEET YOU

From left: King Eider’s Pub sits just off Main Street in the center of downtown Damariscotta; the patio in front is a new addition this year. Co-owner Todd Maurer in the pub’s second-floor oyster bar. The King’s Best Margarita. Opposite, from left: A perfectly poured Guinness stout. Co-owner Jed Weiss, Maurer’s brother-in-law. King Eider’s sells 35,000 Damariscotta River oysters every year.

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EAT by Susan Axelrod Photography by Nicole Wolf

AT THE PUB

L i k e i t s B r i t ish c oun t e r par t s, King E i d e r â&#x20AC;&#x2122; s i n Damar isc ot ta is t h e h ub o f t h e c ommun it y

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n Britain, the local pub is a nofuss, come-as-you-are institution where seeing familiar faces is as important as the food and drink. Usually located in charming old buildings and sporting cheeky names like the Mucky Duck and the Nag’s Head, British pubs are egalitarian watering holes where CEOs and construction workers lift their pints side by side. In rural Britain, they are often the center of small-town life. King Eider’s Pub in Damariscotta has much in common with its relatives across the pond. For starters, there’s the central location: a tall, narrow, 1840s brick building just off Main Street in this midcoast river town, tucked in next to Maine’s original Reny’s department store. “We’re on the 50yard line of Damariscotta,” says co-owner Todd Maurer. “I like to say it’s the corner of

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duck and Reny.” On a midsummer day, tables on the newly expanded patio in front of the pub and all three floors inside are full with a chatty mix of locals and visitors. The first floor is the bar, an appropriately dark, snug space with rows of ceramic beer mugs hanging from the ceiling and an impressive array of bourbons and single-malt scotches—Maurer estimates 150 in total. A few steps up is the tiny oyster bar, brightened by skylights in the steeply pitched roof, and on the third level is the cozy dining room, its walls painted a rich plum. King Eider’s opened in 1996; Maurer and his wife, Sarah, bought the pub in 2003 together with Sarah’s sister and brother-inlaw, Cynthia and Jed Weiss. A third sister, Melissa Organ, joined them eight years ago. The group also owns Stone Cove Catering and 1812 Farm, an events location down the road in Bristol. At King Eider’s,

Todd Maurer handles the culinary side of the operation, while Jed Weiss is the front man; he’s “the welcoming factor of this pub,” says Maurer. Talking with the brothers-in-law, it is clear that they share a commitment to service at their restaurant and in the community. Their mission has been recognized by the Maine Restaurant Association, which named them Restaurateurs of the Year in April. “The service has to be at a level to allow for escapism; you walk through our door, you forget your problems,” says Maurer. Servers are not only knowledgeable but also exceptionally friendly and attentive, refilling water and iced tea glasses promptly and replacing napkins blown off outdoor tables by the breeze off the nearby river—small gestures that make a big difference, even in a casual restaurant. In the kitchen, it’s a group effort, with no traditional chef hierarchy. “I’ve got a team that can cook, but they can

also taste, and that is unbelievably important,” says Maurer. King Eider’s menu includes standard pub food such as burgers and chicken wings but also offers more sophisticated fare, with steaks and plenty of local seafood in the mix. Damariscotta River oysters are a natural favorite—on the half shell, skillet roasted, or Rockefeller style. “We go through 35,000 of them a year,” says Maurer. Crab cakes are another popular dish. While I love the traditional lump crab version, King Eider’s are equally special, prepared with delicate, sweet Maine crabmeat and needing no adornment other than a squeeze of lemon. Cheese fans like

me could make a meal of the honey-baked brie—not baked in pastry but served warm and melty in a crock with toasted bread and fruit. Come to think of it, I’d add their “rocket” salad to that meal. Recreated after a version the Maurers once tasted in the British Virgin Islands, the salad features peppery local greens, local goat cheese, and walnuts, lightly dressed with a sprightly lemon-basil-mint vinaigrette. From the beginning, Maurer has sourced many of his ingredients from local farms and fishermen. “To paraphrase something I read years ago in the Wall Street Journal: ‘People don’t come to Maine and eat, they come to Maine to eat,’” he says. “I’m the guy

who gets a phone call from the fisherman who just caught a 90- to 100-pound halibut—he has the tags for it, and I’m allowed to buy it—and it becomes our special along with 20 pounds of fresh peas that just came in from High Hopes Farm down the road.” Gesturing at a family tucking in to hearty sandwiches at a nearby table, Maurer calls my attention to a plate piled with crisp, skin-on french fries. “Those potatoes came from Fryeburg, Maine,” he says. I’m tempted to ask for my own plate of fries, but then the server sets my barbecued salmon salad in front of me. A generous cut of sustainably harvested Maine salmon is draped over a mixed greens salad with fresh melon, apple, strawberries, pineapple, and

Opposite: King Eider’s Mug Club mugs hang above the cozy first-floor pub. This page: Crab cakes, made with Maine crab, are a specialty of the house. The “rocket” salad with local greens, local goat cheese, walnuts, and fruit.

September 2018 91

THIS IS SO MAINE.

grapes. The fish is coated with a fragrant dry rub and grilled for a savory char that yields to a perfect medium-rare inside; after a bite drizzled with the accompanying tomato vinaigrette I can see why it’s one of the pub’s most requested dishes (the barbecued salmon is also offered on a sandwich at lunch and as a dinner entree). Several years ago, Maurer thought he’d take it off the menu, which didn’t go over well. “They called, they emailed, and I finally said, ‘Put the thing back on.’ It will never, ever come off this menu as long as we own this place,” he says, shaking his head and smiling.

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Winter is locals’ season at what people in town simply refer to as “the pub.” In addition to the mug club, there are whiskey and wine clubs and events such as steakhouse night and “Fried Fridays,” featuring seafood. On a blustery afternoon in March, I sat at the King Eider’s bar with my brother, who lives nearby, sampling bourbons I had never heard of and learning about them from the well-versed bartenders. I had been on my way home to Yarmouth from Camden and called to see if he was free for a spontaneous visit. “Sure,” my brother said. “I’ll meet you at the pub.” I knew just what he meant.

From left: The barbecued salmon salad is a customer favorite. A blueberry martini made with local blueberry-flavored vodka.

OCTOBER 2017

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He and Weiss respond to the broader community with similar attentiveness. When a longtime employee went into the hospital for a hip replacement, they made sure she came home to a full fuel tank for heat and a kitchen stocked with groceries. Maurer is president of the Community Energy Fund of Lincoln County, which supplies heating assistance to people in need. Weiss runs a no-charge snowplow route. “Let’s say there’s a couple who comes here all the time, and the gentle-

man passes away—the wife doesn’t want to come in alone,” explains Maurer. “Jed goes to the house, brings her here to supper, then takes her back.” And then there’s the soup story. Last winter, realizing that many people in the community had come down with the flu, Maurer made a big pot of chicken soup and offered free quarts of it on the pub’s Facebook page. “All of a sudden we had cameras here, and people wanted to do interviews,” says Weiss.

RUSTIC REFINED A MAGICAL ESCAPE ON MOOSEHEAD LAKE + Inside a 200-year-old York farmhouse

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THERE’S

MAGIC IN THE TREES

A N E T H E R E A L , H I G H-M I N D E D G E TAWAY I N T H E W O O D S OF MONMOUTH IS A CHILDHOOD DREAM COME TRUE

BY KAT Y KELLEHER // PHOTOGRAPHY BY ERIN LIT TLE

hen Lindy Snider was a little girl, she dreamt of walking through a wardrobe door and into Narnia, a land where trees talk to brave children, Father Christmas is real, and birds and badgers are natural allies. The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe by C.S. Lewis was one of the first books that captivated Snider’s imagination. “It was the first book I really remembered, and what stuck with me was that image of children stepping into another world,” she says. “Every child believes there is a possibility that the world holds magic, and I was at that age.” We’re standing outside her tree house, a two-story structure perched in a cluster of seven tall hemlocks. This fanciful getaway is located on the shores of Cobbosseecontee Lake in Monmouth, where Snider and her extended family own

multiple camps (and have for generations). While I haven’t yet spotted a talking squirrel in a waistcoat or witnessed any miracles, certainly Snider has succeeded in creating a place that transports one to another realm: the wide-eyed joy of childhood. You may have already seen this house. The clever structure was featured on an episode of Animal Planet’s show Treehouse Masters, where it was described as the Ethereal Portal Treehouse, a nod to its literary inspiration. But seeing it on television isn’t quite the same as walking around inside the house. From a distance, the tree house looks static, contained. Covered in reclaimed wood and topped with a standing-seam metal roof, it blends into the trees, disappearing into the forest. From a distance, it looks rather small.

Opposite: Featured on an episode of Treehouse Masters, this charming vacation home is located on the shores of Cobbosseecontee Lake in Monmouth. It has two bedrooms, a full bathroom, a fully functional kitchen, and a spacious porch with views of the water.

September 2018 95

But once you get inside, it feels like stepping into a new world. Where the outside is dark and weathered, the inside is light and airy. And somehow, despite all rules of physics, it feels as though it’s bigger on the inside than its 600-square-foot dimensions. The design team packed in two bedrooms, a living room with an electric fireplace, a full bathroom (with a tiled shower), a kitchen, a breakfast nook, and a dreamy porch that looks out toward the calm green waters of the lake.

“

HERE, YOU REALIZE THAT YOU’RE NOT TUCKED AWAY SAFELY AND PROTECTED FROM NATURE. YOU’RE PART OF IT.” All of these amenities made building the tree house something of a challenge, but Snider says that was part of the fun. Pete Nelson, star of Treehouse Masters and owner of Nelson Treehouse and Supply, was “so enthusiastic,” says Snider. “I wanted it to be fully winterized, with a working kitchen and a tiled bathroom, and they don’t do a lot of houses like that. I wanted to be able to actually live here. They were excited by that idea.” Working with Greene-based contractor Dave Cadman of Cadman Construction, Nelson created a stable platform for the house, which is anchored to the trunks of seven large trees with metal bolts and supported by five steel poles set into concrete. To showcase their foundational work, Cadman takes me underneath the house. “It’s designed so

Opposite: Lindy Snider always dreamed of having her own private Narnia. The design of the tree house was inspired by one of her favorite childhood books, The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe. This page: The crew at Treehosue Masters packed a lot of amenities into a small space. The marble-topped kitchen island provides extra prep area for when Snider wants to make a big rustic meal.

the trees can move and sway, but the house will stay steady,” he says. “It’s built kind of like a regular house, except there are more nails, more screws, and instead of framing walls and standing them up like a normal house, they built the walls in Washington state, trucked them in, and put them on the platform with a big forklift.” Construction happened quickly, although it took some time to figure out the best site. “I was religious about having a minimal amount of trees come down,” says Snider. Once they found a group of hemlocks that could support the house, Snider began her efforts to preserve as much nature as possible on the active construction site. “I

went around marking certain plants,” she says. “I found these rattlesnake plantains, and they look like something that you could find in a rain forest.” She moved the wild orchids, ensuring that even the smallest flowers wouldn’t be threatened by the ambitious project. This attention to nature is apparent inside the tree house, too. Not only are visitors ensconced in a canopy of green, but they’re also greeted by cool ocean tones and soft, natural fabrics at every turn. Christina Salway, interior designer for Treehouse Masters, worked with Snider to understand her client’s hobbies, interests, and tastes in order to create a space that would be

tailored to her. “She got it. She knew what I wanted, almost before we even met,” says Snider. “I wanted something ethereal, light, and airy, with pieces by Maine artists and local craftsmen.” Salway brought mosquito netting into the main bedroom to create a white cloud above the bed, and she sourced soft wool blankets from Swans Island Company to drape over the living room couch. She included several nods to C.S. Lewis as well, such as a lion head sculpture that sits on a living room shelf. To create a portal into the bedroom, Nelson found a real wardrobe, cut it in half with a chain saw, and affixed it to the wall so that, when Snider retreats into her private space, she can walk through a magic portal of her

Even though the full refrigerator takes up space, Snider knew she wanted one. Open shelving keeps the kitchen feeling airy and light. The house includes everything Snider needs—and nothing she doesn’t. Opposite: Snider wanted her getaway to feel ethereal and light on the inside. The mosquito netting creates a dreamy backdrop for summer slumber. Plus, the entrance to the bedroom is a real wardrobe door sourced from an antique sale.

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own. To cement the house’s connection to Maine, Salway found locally forged hooks to hang on the walls and ceramic salt and pepper shakers shaped like barnacles that rest upon the kitchen table. Snider has always enjoyed sailing, and she wanted to bring in nautical elements to reflect her love for the Maine coastline. “In a lot of ways, a tree house is like a boat,” she explains. “You have very limited space, and you always have to put everything back where it belongs. This house is like that— it’s extremely efficient.” Recently, Snider spent her first full week living in the tree house. Although she spends her workweek in Philadelphia, she

comes to Maine as often as she can. “Maine gets into your blood,” she says. It’s also in her children’s blood. “My daughter and I stayed here together, and we had the most amazing, uninterrupted time. We don’t have cable or Wi-Fi. We spent our time reading on the porch, and painting.” Snider calls the tree house her “happy place.” “It takes you to a different vibration, and it resets your stress levels.” During that relaxing week, Snider also learned more about her hideaway. At first, she thought the cutouts in the porch around each tree trunk were there for aesthetic reasons. One day, a storm came through, and the entire house began to

sway and move. “I realized they cut around the trees so that the porch wouldn’t crash into them,” she says. “Everything here has a purpose.” As the thunderstorm raged, Snider and her daughter took shelter inside and listened to the rain pound on the roof and run into the copper gutters. “Here, you realize that you’re not tucked away safely and protected from nature,” she says. “You’re part of it. You’re part of the elements. There is something timeless and primal about that.” There’s also something sublime about living so close to the wild woods of Maine, something that feels almost miraculous. “To me, magic is right here,” Snider says. “I feel that when I’m in nature. It’s all around us.”

Opposite, clockwise from top left: One challenge of building in the trees is that the house moves and sways with the wind. It’s unusual to put tile in a house like this, but thanks to the clever engineering, the tree house is fairly stable. (The trees may shake, but the house stays put on its posts.) Dark on the outside, light on the inside, and woodsy all around. Snider has been vacationing on this lake since she was a young girl. The property has been in her family for years, and her cousins and siblings own cottages nearby. This page: It’s miraculous how spacious the small home feels inside; copious amounts of windows, lots of natural light, and a gracious spiral staircase equals a home like no other.

September 2018 101

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From the kitchen to the dining room. Susan Axelrod, a former restaurateur and now Food Editor, writes about one of her great passions: amazing meals. @eatmaine + themainemag.com

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Some say that great ideas start on a napkin in a bar. In Delvino’s Grill & Pasta Houses case, it is true...

he Story: The story begins in 2005 for the owners of Delvino’s, Anthony Jacovino & Tina DelSanto. Anthony went to The Lookout Pub (recently renamed The Front Street Pub) to visit his friend Katherine Loblein. The visit yielded an introduction to Katherine’s business partner, Tina DelSanto. As it turns out, Anthony and Tina were both looking for apartments… you guessed it! Tina and Anthony became apartment mates and friends and fell in love. Then comes the restaurant. Fast-forward a few years to The Lookout, again, where Tina meets Bruce Thomas, another bona fide Belfast Lover. It’s 2010, and Belfast is once again going through a transformation. Bruce had recently bought a building that he knew the couple was dying to put a restaurant in. Over many months of working with Bruce, Tina and Anthony opened Delvino’s Grill & Pasta House in June of 2010. THE FOOD: Delvino’s: Stepping through the doors you might think you are in New York or Boston but you’re actually in Delvino’s Grill and Pasta House in beautiful downtown Belfast. Delvino’s is the perfect date night, family gathering, relaxing, upscale location with creative food, located in the historical downtown within walking distance from the harbor. The restaurant is in a circa 1865 brick building. Delvino’s takes advantage of everything the community has to offer: lobster and mussels harvested from our harbor, as well as produce, meats and cheeses sourced locally which add flare to an eclectic Italian menu.

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BOOTHBAY | MLS 1328612 | Newly Priced at $1,250,000. A boaterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dream with 660 +/- feet of protected deep water frontage, dock and 2 moorings. Oceanfront 3.76 +/- acre parcel with its expansive westerly views of Linekin Bay benefits from all day sun, spectacular sunsets and privacy. Ocean Point residents benefit from the ability to join the Ocean Point Colony Trust. Underground utilities, roads & well are on site, septic design is complete. Site plan available. Offered as two separate parcels $729,000 Parcel A with 1.26 acres with dock and float. $529,00 Parcel B with 2.5 acres water frontage and endless views.

S E A R S P O RT Classic Maine bed & breakfast | Restaurant and bar Owners quarters | Waterfront location | historicmaineinn.com MLS 1291941 | $875,000

B O O T H B AY Multi-unit investment opportunity with stable income | Main house & 5 income apts 40-acre compound to develop or enjoy | Dock on river | Residential/investment MLS 1279443 | $749,000

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Lot 2 Bartlett’s Narrows Road Mount Desert $649,000 | MLS 1362524 Andy Pooler & Jane Pooler

“STONESCAPE” Deer Isle $5,200,000 | MLS 1359416 Margaret Smith

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$995,000 | MLS 1354182

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The Erica Brooks Group

Exceptional Superior craftsmanship Sheepscot Lake withhome dissitting tinct architetctual on 110+/- acres design. with 9.8+/over acres 1,000 & ft 330+/of prime ft ofwaterfront. shorefront.5 4 bed/3.5 bed, 4.5 bath bath & panoramic & 6,000 sqviews ft of of livingCape space. Rosier Includes & islands. the island!

Superior craftsmanship with distinct architectural design. 9.8+/acres & 330+/- ft of shorefront. 4 bed, 3.5 bath & panoramic views of Cape Rosier & islands.

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“FERMATA” 65 Harborside Road, Northeast Harbor $4,300,000 | MLS 1362556 Linda Jonas

“SEASIDE” 126 Fox Run, Trenton $1,250,000 | MLS 1357762 Amy Cameron & John Bennett

“CYRUS HALL HOUSE” 23 Musetti Drive, Mount Desert $949,000 | MLS 1348020 Amy Cameron & John Bennett

This classic Fred Savage cottage has stunning harbor & island vistas from every level. Beautifully updated interior & grounds. 7 BR, 5 1/2 + 1/2 bths & 100+/- ft shore front.

Custom built 3 bed, 3 bath post & beam home sited on 4 +/ - acres with 235+/- ft of deep oceanfront with lovely beach & boat mooring. Additional 60+/- acres available.

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319 Sargeant Drive, Mount Desert $335,000 | MLS 1303869

142 Cove Road, Brooksville 327 Ames Steven Shore Road, Palermo $995,000 MLS 1354182 $1,395,000 | MLS 1354016 Margaret Margaret Smith Smith

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Bar Harbor - Bring your passion to this clean slate and community! $325,000

Southwest Harbor - Renovated 4BR, 3BA cottage. In-town with strong rental history. $799,000

Bar Harbor - 2.3+/- acres with 250+/- feet of tidal shore frontage. $350,000

Bass Harbor - Cabin on 8.65+/- acres with 440+/- feet of shore. $985,000

www.KnowlesCo.com One Summit Road, Northeast Harbor, ME 04662 info@KnowlesCo.com 207-276-3322

CAPTURE by Meaghan Dunn

EVERY DAY WE COMB THROUGH OUR INSTAGRAM FEED TO FIND IMAGES FROM FOLLOWERS DOCUMENTING OUR STATE. WE SHARE A CAPTURE OF THE DAY @THEMAINEMAG, AND EACH MONTH IN MAINE MAGAZINE WE HIGHLIGHT ONE OF THOSE PHOTOS.

captured this shot entirely by chance. In May, a couple of us were staying at my friend and fellow photographer’s family home on Little Deer Isle that his grandparents built in the 1960s. We planned to open the home for the season and enjoy a few days away from the world before the buzz of summer activity took over. While there we spent time exploring and photographing some of the best spots in the area, including the sunrise at Cadillac Mountain and Pumpkin Island Light, late afternoons in Stonington, hiking in the woods surrounding the home, and kayaking throughout Penobscot Bay. On this particular night, it was shaping up to be a beautiful sunset, so we came home from our adventures to relax on the deck with some predinner wine. The deck offers some of the most incredible coastal views I’ve ever seen—it is literally as close to the water as you can get. At high tide, the ocean laps the rocks right beneath your feet and inches up to the tree line; at low tide, it pulls away to reveal plush little islands of sea grass and scattered tidal pools. As I sat on the edge overlooking the bay, the sun bathed everything in gold, and my friend set up his tripod behind me. Knowing I was in his shot, I tried to remain as still as possible when a fox appeared from under the deck. It turned and paused just long enough for me to acknowledge its presence, grab my camera, and snap some shots as it bounded away.

Meaghan Dunn is a 26-year-old Bostonian who often travels to Maine to visit friends and capture the state’s coast and wildlife. You can follow her on Instagram @meaghankelley.

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al p O ry e e r v a o R isc D Earrings F9583 $2,305.00

Pendant F9582.....$4,167.00

Bracelet F9581.....$5,815.00

Spectacular African Opals from new finds in Welo, Ethiopia

Color unlike anything you have ever seen. Color that sweeps and darts, vanishes and reappears. One moment it’s red, then orange, then violet and on to ghostly blues and spectral greens, apparitions of a longlost world, playing, dancing, cavorting across the surface. Colors dreaming within the gems. Look once, look twice, look a hundred times, always different. Carry one close to your heart, a pendant, a necklace, hold colors near the ear, and for dramatic moments of outreach, a bracelet or a ring too. No matter what we say, it can’t convey, no matter what we show in print and video, they don’t begin to explain. Visit us and see. Visit us and in two minutes you will see something you never knew existed, you couldn’t possibly have known. Your heart will know, you must have, must take one home with you… or two, or three. Everything is Early Welo, amazing values. Welo opals set in 22 karat yellow gold. We have the definitive collection of Welo opal in New England. Each gem is individually chosen, lovingly handcrafted. Adding new pieces weekly. $450.00 to $7,500.00

Over 100 pieces of Welo opal jewelry on display. This is a must see. Absolute Satisfaction Guaranteed on anything you purchase. Full 30-day refund.

MM818

Cross Jewelers 570 Congress St., Downtown, Portland, Maine

More on-line www.CrossJewelers.com/welo Open Monday - Friday 9:30am to 5:00pm 1-800-433-2988

Innovation, now seating seven. With this much advanced technology inside, it was only fair to make room for everyone. Introducing the all-new Audi Q7 with a truly impressive array of innovations. The available Audi virtual cockpit with Google Earth™ navigation gives drivers control over the road from their own personalized command center. Leading-edge technology, such as available Audi turn assist, helps drivers avoid potential collisions by monitoring the road around them. Superior design and intelligence have come together to form the next-generation Sport Technology Vehicle.

The all-new Audi Q7. A higher form of intelligence has arrived.

MORONG FALMOUTH AUDI 187 U. S. ROUTE ONE FALMOUTH, MAINE 04105 207-781-4020 WWW.MORONGFALMOUTHAUDI.COM The features discussed are not a substitute for attentive driving. “Audi,” all model names, and the four rings logo are registered trademarks of AUDI AG. “Google Earth” is a trademark of Google Inc. ©2016 Audi of America, Inc.